Skirts are in the wardrobe of any woman, since they are represented by such a wide variety of models and styles that every woman can find matching skirt, which fits perfectly on the figure and allows you to create the desired image. Some styles of skirts are more popular, others are less common, but each skirt model deserves the attention of fashionistas, as such clothes emphasize femininity and express the individuality of its owner.

Popular styles

Pencil

This skirt is deservedly called a classic, since this style has been loved by women for many decades and is found in most women's wardrobes. Classic skirts of this type are knee-length, slightly narrowed at the bottom, and have a small slit in the middle at the back. Nevertheless, very long pencil skirts, and mini-models, and items planted at the waist, and skirts with a high or low waist are also very common.

Modern skirts of this style are not only strict, but also trimmed with drapery, flounces, embroidery, pleats and other additional elements. In addition, a slit on such a skirt may be present both from the sides and from the front.

If at one time the “pencil” skirt was sewn mainly from dense black, gray or other plain, discreet fabric, then today you can buy such skirts made of cotton, velvet, denim, suede, leather, lace and other materials, and the colors can be very bright. Also in some models there are eye-catching vertical inserts.

Tulip

The name of the skirt of this style is associated with the similarity of products with an inverted cup of a tulip. Smoothly embracing the girl's waist and gently flowing around the figure in the hips, this skirt looks feminine and gentle.

The style was created in the 60s of the 20th century on the basis of puffy long skirts, in which the hem was turned up and hemmed inside. At that time, the tulip skirt was sewn only to the knee length, and also had a smell, thanks to which the product looked like tulip petals. Now there are many more options for a tulip skirt.

A tulip skirt is sewn mainly from soft materials that can smoothly lie down on the figure and drape with ease. Most often, such skirts are chosen for spring and summer, which affects the color range of products.

The length of the skirt of this style can be short, very long, and medium. Skirts look unusual, the front part of which is shortened, and there is a train at the back. The belt of a tulip skirt can sit at the waist, be lowered a little lower or overstated. Many models do not have a smell in the front, and to give volume in the hips, modern skirts use pleats, pockets, draperies and other details.

Barrel

The main difference between the products of this style is the presence of additional volume both at the bottom of the skirt and at the waist. A barrel skirt always has a lining, because it is precisely due to the different widths of the main fabric and lining material that gathers and folds form along the bottom of the models, giving the skirt a similarity to a barrel. The length of such skirts is often midi or mini, while short skirts are more often chosen by young girls. You can combine a barrel skirt with a top, T-shirt, blouse, turtleneck or longsleeve.

Bell

The name of such a skirt is due to its external resemblance to a bell, since it is narrow at the waist and expands downwards. The first skirts of this style began to be worn as early as the 17th century. Their length reached the floor, and the skirt itself was worn over many petticoats. In modern skirts of this type, the length is very different, including models above the knees.

These days, bell skirts are one of the most popular due to their comfort and practicality. Most often, such a skirt is bought for the warm season, since its special cut allows the legs to “breathe”, however, there are also winter models.

For sewing a bell skirt, materials with a hard texture are used, for example, linen, wool, leather and similar fabrics. Main Feature style is the extension of the skirt down without the use of drapery or pleats, so prints and various patterns are often found on the bell skirt.

Sun

According to its design, the skirt of this cut is represented by a circle of fabric, in which there is a hole for the waist. For its manufacture, both one cut and several cuts of material sewn together can be used. Such simple model it comes in different lengths - from ultra-mini to models to heels.

The most common skirts are the sun, which have an elastic band. Models with a tight belt and a zipper located on the side or back are also in demand. The materials for such skirts are a variety of fabrics, such as silk or chiffon. In colors and patterns, such skirts are also not limited. Women of fashion buy both plain models and skirts of the "sun" style with abstract patterns, appliqués, floral patterns, embroidery and other decor.

Most sun skirts have a single layer, but there are also multi-layer models made of lightweight fabrics. Such skirts are often chosen for special occasions. In addition, flounces and ruffles can often be seen on modern sun skirts.

Half-sun skirt

The skirt of this style belongs to flared skirts and differs from the "sun" in that, when unfolded, such a skirt is represented by a half circle. That is why the half-sun skirt has at least one seam or there is often a smell. Such skirts were especially popular in the 50s and 60s of the 20th century, as they helped create the silhouette " hourglass».

Models of the half-sun skirt differ in the upper part - they are on elastic and on a yoke, fastened with a zipper or buttons, as well as with a wide or thin belt. The length of the skirt of this style is different - and medium, and ultra-short, and long (sometimes even with a train).

Summer models of half-sun skirts are sewn from silk, denim, satin, cotton and other light materials, and for winter skirts of this type, corduroy, jacquard and wool are most in demand. The evening version of the "semi-sun" is created from satin and various expensive fabrics.

Blade

Products of this style are a bit like the sun, but the main difference is that they are cut out not from a single piece of full, but from wedges. The number of such wedges varies and depends on the figure. By choosing the right number of wedges, a girl can perfectly fit the skirt to her figure, emphasizing her dignity. The most common are six-blade, but models of 4, 8 or 12 wedges are no less common. This skirt can be worn both for work and for a celebration.

godet

Such a skirt is one of the variations of the blade, combining the features of both a flared skirt and a pencil style. In the upper part, the skirt-year is straight and sits on the figure, and then, thanks to the set-in 4-12 wedges, it expands downwards. In this case, the wedges are both from the same material, and a completely different color or texture. Waist in year-skirts can be low or higher than usual.

Skirts of this type became popular in the 60s of the 20th century. Nowadays, this style is especially in demand for creating evening dresses. Modern year skirts are sewn from different fabric such as viscose, cotton, denim or jacquard. Their length most often falls slightly below the knees. There are also floor-length skirts, but mini-skirts of this style do not exist.

tutu

Although such a skirt appeared more than 200 years ago, for a long time it was worn only by dancers and ballerinas. Now tutu skirts appear in the everyday wardrobe of women. At the same time, they are worn mostly by slender and graceful girls under 35 years old, since tutus look out of place on older ladies or with curvaceous forms.

The skirt of this style looks elegant and light. It does not interfere with movements and opens slender legs, since it is most often represented by a mini length, although there are tutu skirts middle length, below the knees and even floor length.

For sewing such a skirt, mostly translucent thin materials, such as tulle or chiffon, are in demand. A pack may have one layer, but more often such a skirt is sewn in layers. Of great interest to fashionistas are tutu skirts with many tiers, when the upper tiers are shorter than the lower ones.

most popular colors for a tutu skirt is pastel. In a skirt of this tone, the girl looks tender, airy and fragile. Black and white packs are also in demand.

Silhouettes

A-line, straight

Straight skirts began to be worn in the 19th century, and at first they were extremely long and narrowed models, so it was very uncomfortable to move around in them. The most famous straight skirt is the "pencil". It is often included in business wardrobe, but, since it is very versatile, such a skirt can be seen in everyday ensembles and in outfits for going out.

In a straight skirt, the figure looks very feminine. Its length can be very different, the waist can be both high and slightly lower, and different inserts, embroidery, belt, pockets and other details can be used to finish straight skirts.

Winter straight skirts are usually made from warm knitwear and wool, while summer models are made from lightweight materials that support the shape, such as suiting or denim.

As for the A-line skirts, their advantages are the ability to visually lengthen the legs and emphasize the waist area. Such skirts are often complemented with frills and wide pleats, as well as pleating. Models expanding downwards are presented different length and sewn from the most diverse different materials.

Narrow, tight

Narrow models began to be worn from the 30s of the 19th century instead of voluminous long skirts with many petticoats. These skirts fit the figure of a woman tightly and emphasize seductive curves, as well as slender legs. The most popular narrow skirt these days is called the pencil style model with a narrower cut.

A narrow skirt can be both short and of considerable length. For its sewing, one cut or several wedges can be used. Not all skirts of this silhouette are narrowed down - there are also straight models. In addition, these skirts differ in belt options, for example, their belt is classic, understated or located above.

For tailoring narrow models, dense fabrics are usually used that can maintain their shape well. These are denim, jacquard, satin, tight knitwear, suit fabric, wool, chintz. The color of the skirt is chosen depending on the purpose of the model, for example, for tight-fitting skirts business style characterized by gray, beige, black and other neutral tones.

Tapered, flared

Flared skirts appeared in women's wardrobes in the 19th century in the 20s and initially had only a large length. Unlike the sun skirt, flared models are narrow at the top, and widen from the middle part of the hips due to the presence of wedges. Modern flared skirts are short, medium length and floor length, and the number of wedges in different models is different.

For sewing such skirts, a wide variety of materials are used, depending on the time of year. Summer models are often bright, sewn from airy flowing fabrics. For winter flared skirts, a modest solid color and dense materials that drape are used.

Wide, fluffy

Such skirts have always been considered elegant and feminine. In the past, the width of the skirt was provided by the use of a large number of petticoats and other structures with considerable weight. Now the splendor of the skirt is created with the help of flounces, several tiers, different assemblies and many folds.

For creating wide skirts different materials are used, the colors of which are both monophonic and with drawings, for example, with images of flowers, various ornaments, animals or oriental motifs.

The length of wide skirts is medium and short, but most often such skirts are represented by long models. At the same time, such skirts expand either from the waist, or from the hips, or from the knees. These skirts can have belts, slits and various inserts. Thanks to their use, you can visually lengthen the silhouette and create a romantic look.

Popular Models

high waisted

Such skirts have been worn since antiquity, and today models with a raised waist are especially loved for their ability to visually adjust female figure. In such a skirt, the waist visually narrows, and the hips are smoothly emphasized, resulting in a feminine and elegant silhouette. In addition, short girls like high-waisted models, as they are able to visually add a few centimeters of height.

With the help of such a skirt, you can create absolutely any image, because the high waist is found in almost all styles. Pencil skirts, fluffy skirts and tulip skirts, in which the waist is too high, are especially loved by fashionistas.

Skirts with a slightly higher waist line are diverse not only due to their style, but also due to different materials, and thanks to interesting colors and decor. They also differ in their length and can be supplemented with belts, belts and other accessories.

Low waist

Such modern model skirts are attracted by the absence of a belt and the ability to lower the skirt below the waist. She is primarily interested in girls who have a thin waist, as it helps to emphasize the harmony of this part of the figure. However, such a skirt also has the property of hiding a wide waist.

The style of skirts with a low waist are straight and flared. Low-waisted pencil skirts used in a business wardrobe are very popular. Light summer clothes are also in great demand. everyday models, which are often worn for a walk or to the beach.

The length of skirts with a low waist can be different - both models in the floor and short skirts are equally in demand. Summer skirts of this type are sewn from airy fabrics, and for winter models use dense warm materials. At the same time, classic strict skirts are mainly presented in plain fabric or geometric prints, and for everyday and beach models, bright colors and catchy patterns are chosen.

With smell

The main detail of this type of skirt, which gives the model an original, individual and sexy look, is the smell. The style and length of wrap skirts can be different, it can be either wide models, and narrow products, both long skirts and short models. Wrap skirts are finished using darts, folds, pockets and other elements.

A similar skirt can be worn both for work and for a party or a celebration. For the manufacture of wrap skirts, fabrics with different textures and very diverse colors are used. Summer models are sewn mainly from bright, airy and thin fabrics, and winter wrap skirts are made from material with a high density without a pattern or with a striped or checkered print.

With pleats

The first skirts of this type appeared in Scotland and were worn by men, but now loose skirts with many pleats are very loved by women and are found in the wardrobes of many fashionistas. The number of folds in different models is different, but all pleated skirts look original, feminine and attractive.

Pleats on such skirts can go in one direction, as well as be oncoming or directed in different directions with an indefinite order. In addition, the folds are wide and narrow, group, asymmetric, straight, fan-shaped, slightly overstitched. They can start from the belt itself or below.

For tailoring skirts with pleats, materials are used that can maintain their shape, such as linen or wool. The colors of skirts of this type are different, but prints are most often represented by a cage or longitudinal stripes.

Basque

The main detail of such a skirt is represented by a small piece of fabric (up to 30 cm) sewn to the belt. It is she who is called Basque. It is interesting that they came up with such an element for men's vests, but now the peplum adorns women's skirts and dresses.

In such a skirt, a woman looks romantic, stylish and gentle. You can wear it to the office and to a party. Peplum models are very diverse due to the different style of the skirt itself, as well as different type Basques. This detail can strictly lie on top of the skirt in the form of a flap of fabric, but in most cases it descends from the belt in soft waves.

Basques are also often made in the form of ruffles or wings.

The length of skirts in which there is a peplum is different, and the colors are often monophonic. Thanks to such clothes, you can adjust the figure, making the forms more rounded and smooth. At the same time, the peplum model looks best on girls whose figure resembles a rectangle or an hourglass.

With flounces

This loose skirt is in high demand right now. The presence of flounces makes such a model lush, so that the skirt looks romantic and tender. It is more often worn at a meeting with friends or a party, but if desired, a skirt with flounces can be successfully entered into a business wardrobe. Such models are especially in demand thin women who want to add volume to the figure, as well as broad-shouldered girls who want to balance the silhouette.

The skirt itself can be both long and short, and the frills on it can be presented in one row along the hem of the product or in many layers along the entire length of the skirt. Straight flounces are more common, but in some models they are asymmetric.

For tailoring summer skirts with flounces, cotton fabric, silk, chiffon and similar materials are used, and winter models of such skirts are made from dense fabrics. At the same time, business skirts are predominantly presented in beige and black models, while casual models come in any color and with different prints.

With lightning

The zipper is found on different styles of skirts, but most often it can be seen on narrow models and on straight skirts. In this case, the zipper can be short and present only in the upper part of the product in front or behind, but there are skirts that are fastened with a zipper for their entire length. Unbuttoning it from below, you can create a cut of the desired length. Also, in some skirts, the zipper is sewn in obliquely.

For sewing such skirts, mainly dense materials are used. Very often, denim and leather skirts are decorated with lightning. The color of skirts with a zipper is different, but black models are most popular.

Pleated and corrugated

Such skirts are distinguished by the presence of a large number of one-sided small folds. They can often be seen on little girls and schoolgirls, but this style cannot be called frivolous at all. Having picked up a model with the right material, a pleated skirt can even fit into a business wardrobe.

The length of pleated skirts can be different - both to the floor, and below the knees, and in the "mini" version. Since folds are the main decoration of the product, there are no other decorative elements on such skirts, with the exception of a thin belt that can fall just below the waist. As for the color of the pleated skirt, the most popular are monophonic models (pastel and black for business style, bright ones for evening dresses), as well as products with small prints.

What style of skirt to choose?

In choosing the most successful and suitable styles of skirts, girls should, first of all, evaluate their own figure. Depending on the body type, some styles will look better on a woman, while other models should be avoided.

Hourglass

Girls with an hourglass figure are lucky to be able to wear a skirt of any length. If the legs are attractive and slender, feel free to wear short models. On such a figure, skirts with a high waist line, complemented by a small belt, fit perfectly. They are best worn with a classic blouse tucked in. Other most successful models of skirts for girls whose figure looks like an hourglass are:

• Pencil skirts. In them, the hourglass figure will look especially attractive due to the emphasis on the waist. The optimal length is a few centimeters below the knees.
• A-line skirts. This is another most successful version of skirts for a girl with such a physique. This A-line skirt any will do woman, regardless of her age or height.
• Half-sun skirts. Such feminine models should be selected with a small belt or no belt at all. The best addition would be a blouse, a classic shirt or a sweater.
• Skirts-pants. Girls with this physique are well suited for models with a diagonal cut or with a slightly low waist. As far as fabrics are concerned, the best option there will be a material that can emphasize the curves of the hips, for example, dense cotton fabric, denim, wool fabric or suede.
• Wrap skirts. They accentuate the hourglass silhouette and are often chosen for summer period, therefore, such skirts are usually sewn from light fabrics.
• Volumetric tiered skirts. When choosing such models, it is important not to miscalculate with the length, so as not to look ridiculous in an excessively long or short skirt. They wear a skirt of this kind with a modest top.

Elegant midi-length skirts, with soft pleats or draperies from the waist line, are always relevant. They are ideal for slim girls and young women, both tall and medium height. The tulip silhouette skirt, narrowed to the bottom, with 2-4 deep folds laid down from the waist, remains popular. You can model and sew any of the models of skirts with draperies yourself,

Modeling a skirt with draperies and a yoke

Models of such skirts can be on a belt, on a yoke, on a facing, with or without a smell. The drawings of the first collage show how to model a skirt with three soft folds-draperies laid down from a semicircular yoke on the side of the skirt.

We model a skirt with an asymmetrical yoke and soft folds-draperies.

Before modeling any asymmetrical thing: a dress or a skirt, build an expanded front pattern.

When constructing a pattern for this model, the front tucks are transferred to the folds and yoke. But, if you have a front tuck depth of only 1.2-1.5 cm, you can, before modeling, simply change the slope of the side seam.

Connect the ends of the tucks with a straight line, cut the pattern along this line - Figure 1. Then connect the resulting part with the inclined line of the right tuck. Draw a semicircular yoke - Figure 2. It can be of any shape, you can draw and cut it out even in the form of an elongated narrow triangle - it all depends on what model of skirt you want to sew.

Then draw 2 inclined lines from the yoke to the left side of the pattern, in the direction of future folds - Figure 3. Depending on the angle of inclination, the folds can then be directed both almost horizontally and towards the bottom. Most best option- draw the first line to the line of the hips on the pattern, or 1-2 cm lower, and the second - in parallel at a distance of 2-3 cm.

Cut off a fragment of the coquette and attach it to the main pattern - figures 2 and 4. Cut the pattern along the drawn lines almost to the side line. Then spread out on the fabric, "opening" each cut to the width of the tuck-draperies. The first fold will be formed by attaching a fragment of the pattern, and the width of the other two will be 2-5 cm, depending on what kind of drapery you want to get: with small folds, almost symbolic, or deep. Keep in mind that too deep folds will look rough. Figure 4

Circle the pattern with chalk along the contour, smoothly connecting the ends of the cuts. Be sure to mark with notches the places where the cuts end. On the yoke, mark with a notch the point from which you cut the pattern. When you connect the yoke and the base of the skirt, they must match so that there are no distortions - figures 5 and 6.

After cutting out the front of the skirt, lay the soft folds-draperies, aligning the notches, and fix them with pins. If you are not sure that you have correctly determined the width of the folds, then cut out on tracing paper. Figure 5. Attach to yourself and see how it turned out: beautiful or not. Please note that on soft tissue, for example, if you plan to sew a skirt from fine wool or viscose, they will, of course, look not so rough, but lie down with soft drapery - figure 7.

If the folds turned out to be deep and the skirt will add volume to your abdomen, you can reduce the width of the darts and change their slope to a more noticeable one by drawing the cut lines 5-8 cm below the hip line. Or open the cuts by only 1.5-2 cm and instead drapery to make a tidy.

We model a skirt with draperies from the waistline.

Depending on how many drape folds you want to make from the waist, draw 1-3 slanted lines - Figure 1. Cut the pattern and measure the width of each fold. If you have chosen a skirt model with deep pleats, like the skirt in the center of the collage, then draw lines that may even end at the bottom line, depending on the direction of the folds.

If they should be shallow, only 2-2.5 cm, then the lines of the cuts can end at the line of the hips of the pattern.

We build a pattern of a skirt with a smell and draperies.

On the expanded pattern of the front, draw the contour lines of the skirt wrap, in accordance with the selected model. The left half of the front pattern is only 3-5 cm narrower than the right half - so that the smell can freely diverge without causing you discomfort - Figure 1.

We model the right half of the skirt. Draw cut lines. They can go from the waist line, as in Figure 2, or, in order to sew the model of the skirt placed on this collage, from both the waist line and the side line. In this case, part of the odor, 5-10 cm, is sewn into the side seam.

Open the cut lines in the same way as when modeling a skirt with an asymmetrical yoke. Pin with pins and check how they look. Depending on the density and plasticity of the fabric, on the angle of inclination of the folds-draperies, their width can be 3.5-5 cm.

A wrap skirt without draperies is modeled and cut out in the same way. If you plan to sew a line of smell with a decorative stitch, fix it with buttons or fasteners, then the width of the left half of the skirt can be up to the middle or 3-5 cm wider.

How to make a tulip skirt pattern.

A tulip skirt is a midi or mini-length pencil skirt with 2 or 6 deep pleats from the waistline. The central folds can be located end-to-end, or they can overlap each other by 1.5-2.5 cm. In this case, they are cut out 3-5 cm wider and overlap each other.

tulip skirt design

The pattern of a symmetrical tulip skirt is modeled and cut out as shown in Figures 1 and 2. Draw 1 line if there are 2 folds, and 2 if there are 4 folds, 3 if there are 6 folds.

Remember to make notches where the folds begin and end. The bottom of the skirt turns out to be slanted when cutting, but it will level out when you pin the folds along the notches, as in Figure 6.

In order for the bottom of the skirt, cut at an angle, to keep its shape, glue it with a strip of thin glue (thermocloth), 2.5-3 cm wide, depending on the width of the hem.

If you want to sew a model of an asymmetric tulip skirt, then cut out one half according to a regular pattern, and the other half according to a cut one - figures 7 and 8.

According to the same scheme, a pattern of any skirt with draperies is built. Be elegant and fashionable!

Winter has not yet subsided, but we are already thinking about the upcoming warm sunny days of spring and summer. And fashion is always one step ahead of the current season.
If we take a look at the collections of leading design houses, it becomes clear that this spring and summer we have a large selection of different styles. Mini skirts go side by side with midi skirts, different styles, textures, colors and details of the skirts will allow you to choose the model to your taste.
The skirt is perhaps the most versatile and practical option for updating your wardrobe, and in combination with fashion jewelry you can achieve chic and originality.
Below are very interesting and practical options for skirt patterns: patterns of straight skirts, patterns of skirts "Gode", patterns of skirts "Sun", patterns of straight skirts with a detachable cape, patterns of wrap skirts, patterns of skirts with a frill frill, patterns of skirts with an undercut and drapery etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.
Blade skirt
A skirt of several wedges (made from an even number - 4, 6, 8+ 12) refers to skirts classical style and is popular with junior and middle age category women. Due to the cuts made between the wedges, the effect of a loose and flying skirt is created, so it is advisable to sew it from a light, soft fabric, preferably with a one-sided direction of the pattern. Suitable for spring and summer wear and will be in place both on weekdays and on special occasions.

To calculate and build a drawing of a skirt with circular warehouses, the following data are required: Cr = 38 cm, C b = 52 cm, Du = 60 cm, Pt = 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

Skirts from several wedges are cut according to the pattern of a pre-drawn wedge, or the wedges are drawn immediately on the fabric. The calculation and cutting of wedges, despite their number, is done according to a single principle. Consider building a pattern drawing for a six-seam skirt.

1. We calculate the width of the wedge along the waist line using the formula St / 0.5 of the number of wedges. The width of the wedge along the waist line is 38/3 = 12.7 cm.

2. We calculate the width of the wedge along the line of the hips according to the formula (Sb + Pb) / 0.5 of the number of wedges.

In our case, the width of the wedge along the hip line is (52 + 2) / 3 = 18 cm.

3. We build a right angle with point T.

4. Set aside 18 cm from point T down, set point B.

5. Through point B we draw a horizontal 5; straight line - the line of the hips.

6. From the point T down, set aside the grass length of the skirt. We get the point H, through which we also draw a horizontal line.

7. From the point T to the left and right, we set aside the values, the sum of which is equal to the width of the wedge along the waist line T T1 \u003d T T2 \u003d width of the wedge along the waist line / 2 \u003d 12.7 / 2 \u003d 6.4 cm.

8. From point B to the left and right, set aside the Values, the sum of which is equal to the width of the wedge along the hip line

BB 1 = BB2 = width of the wedge along the hip line / 2 = 18/2 = 9 cm.

9. From the point H to the left and right, set aside a value equal to the width of the wedge along the hip line HH1 = HH2 = BB 1 = BB2 = 9 cm.

10. Connect the points T 1, B1 and H1 and T2, B2 and H2. Thus, the base of the wedge passes through the points Т1Б1Н1НН2Б2Т2ГТ 1 .

To make the wedge more flared, you can, by connecting points T1 with B1 and T2 with B 2, continue straight lines to the bottom line.

11. Set aside 1 cm from point T down (this value can vary from 0.3 to 1 cm, depending on the width of the wedge at the bottom and on the thickness of the fabric) and set the point T3

12. We measure the distance between points T3 and H and put the resulting value down from point T1 and down from point T 2, respectively. We get points H3 and H 4 .

13. We draw the line of the wedge, as shown in Figure 156.

The contours of the wedge variety pass through the points T1B1N3N1NN2N4B2T2T3T1.

Rice. 156. Drawing of a wedge pattern for a skirt-blade

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep the wedges, stitch with a 1.5-2 cm seam. Remove the basting, iron the seams, leaving one seam 16-18 cm unstitched to the waist line.

2. Baste the zipper, sew in, remove the basting, iron

3. Treat the top cut with a belt or corsage tape,

4. Align the bottom of the skirt during the fitting.

5P sew the bottom of the skirt.

6. Iron the skirt. The product is ready.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

When cutting, it is necessary to adhere to the economical consumption of fabric. It will be economical to cut if the pattern is successively placed on the unfolded fabric in opposite directions (Fig. 157a). If the fabric is pile or with a clearly defined pattern, then the wedges should be cut out in one direction so that the finished sewn wedges do not differ from each other (Fig. . 1576), Seam allowances should also be given.

Fabric consumption with a width of 60-70 cm - three skirt lengths plus 12 cm, with a width of 90 cm two skirt lengths plus 10 cm and with a width of 140 cm - one skirt length plus 5 cm.

Rice. 157 a. The layout of the wedges on the wedge skirt

Rice. 157 b. The layout of the wedges on the skirt-blade with pile fabric or fabric with a pattern.

After cutting, the sections of the wedges can be trimmed (if necessary). To do this, measure the length of the wedge in the middle and lay the same segment along the side cut from the waist line.

Straight skirt with curly ruffles

Skirt romantic style, extended silhouette. Good both for everyday wear and for special occasions (Fig. 68). Everything depends on the fabric from which it is made. It can be both satets and velor* voile and any other fabric. It can be sewn on any typical figure. Visa skirts can be made as ready-made shawls that match the structure of the main fabric.

It is mainly designed for the younger and middle age group.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of the two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. On the front panel of the skirt, shaped lines of the bottom of the curly yoke are drawn: segment a1a (Fig. 69).

2. The lower cutting part of the front is a segment a1a.

3, B, shaped lines are applied to the back of the skirt in the same way, and on the side, points a1 and a2, b 1 and b2 must strictly coincide.

4. The frills are cut out in a straight line with a width that overlaps the cut-off part of the bottom by 2-3 cm. The frills are cut out at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads, their length should be 1.5 times the length of the segments a3a2 and a, taken together (for upper frill) and the sum of segments b3b2 and b2b (for the lower frill). (How to cut a frill is shown in the layout plan). The width of the frill is 2-3 cm more than the lower cut-off parts of the skirt.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Finish the bottom of the frills with a "Moscow" seam with a double hem.

2, Collect the top of the frills on two machine lines.

3. Baste and stitch the middle seam of the back to the "lightning". Overcast the seam and iron it in different

sides. The zipper is placed from the wrong side under the ironed folds of the fastener so that the links are 0.1 cm from the edge.

4. Stitch side cuts coquettes, folded them face to face, retreating from the cut to the specified width of the allowance. Overcast the seam on a sewing machine and iron towards the back panel.

5. Baste gathered lace to the front bottom of the yoke. Then, face to face, apply and baste a frill from above, since lace is still inserted between the frill and the yoke). Stitch everything in one line, fold the seam and iron in the direction of the yoke. On the front side, fasten it with a finishing line 0.1 cm from the fold.

6. Connect the lower part of the skirt along the side seams, overcast the seams and iron towards the back panel.

7. Baste and stitch the second frill to the bottom edge of the cut-off figured part of the skirt. Fasten on the front side with a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the fold.

8. Connect the lower part of the skirt with the stitched frill to the yoke.

9. Overcast the upper section of the skirt with a stitched belt, which in this model is wider in style than the usual classic. For a better fit in the waist area, it needs to be straightened, that is, the lower cut of the belt, which connects to the waist, is pulled out with an iron, and the fold, on the contrary, is slightly live. The belt should have a finished look as in Figure 70.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in fig. 71.

Straight skirt with draped sides

Straight silhouette skirt for special occasions (Fig. 72). Recommended for thin women with narrow hips and a thin waist. This skirt visually lengthens the height. In front of the skirt, the undercut part at the top passes into the belt. The double fastener imitates two rows of buttons. Drapery in the form of a swing is inserted into the cut-off parts, which is made of soft, easily draped fabric. The fabric should not be very heavy so that the shape of the drapery is held beautifully, giving the model a touch of romanticism.

Buttons can be covered with the same fabric from which the skirt is sewn, but you can make them as finishing accessories.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

Patterns are removed from the base base of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. Set aside T1T1-1 equal to the width of the waist (Fig. 73).

2. From the top of the tuck, lower the straight line down the style to point b.

3. From point b to the thigh, draw a shaped line of the undercut.

4. Mark the cut lines for the drapery.

5. Do the same on the back panel of the skirt, and the points along the thigh should match. There will be no seam along the thigh in the drapery, these parts are one-piece. The seam on the side is done only in coquettes under the drapery.

6. Drapery in reliefs is laid with warehouses up. The lower part of the drapery is swept in and the undercut.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Lay the warehouses along the section AB from the side of the rear panel and along the segment BG from the side of the front panel of the skirt. They should be equal to the vertical undercut lines,

2. Connect these segments with undercut lines. Iron the seams to the center after overcasting.

3. Baste by folding the skirt panels face to face along side seam. Stitch, iron towards the back. Sew a zipper into the left side.

4. Connect the bottom of the drapery to the bottom of the undercut. Overcast the seams and iron down.

5. Give finishing stitch from the front side 0.5 cm from the edge with line silk to match the fabric.

6. Process the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with a preliminary overcasting of the edge on a special machine.

7. Cut out the belt and process the top of the skirt with it

8. Connect along the central part of the front at the top center with one-piece belt and parts of the belts sewn to the skirt. Sew on six trim buttons.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in fig. 75.

Wrap straight skirt with asymmetrical cut and drape

Skirt of a direct silhouette with a smell on a pereda and a fastener three buttons. This asymmetry is good for figures with different configurations of the left and right hips. On the side of the asymmetric fastener there is an undercut and a drapery coming out of it (Fig. 76). Such a skirt is cut in a turn of the fabric. The belt is ordinary, with a clasp or a buckle. This model is good for everyday wear and can be sewn from any type of fabric. Cotton is especially good for the warm season. For the cold season, wrinkle-resistant fabrics containing lavsan are recommended. The skirt is suitable for any woman age group.

Build construction drawings Patterns are removed from base grid drawing of the base of a two-ton skirt (Fig. 14),

The back panel remains unchanged.

1. On the front panel, the entry T1Tz is equal to the distance to the tuck on the left panel (Fig. 77), From the point T3 we lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with the bottom line (point

2. At the bottom of the pattern we make a rounding, exactly the same will be in the left panel.

3. We outline the cutting line of the yoke according to the pattern, close the tuck in the yoke.

4. On the lower cutting part, we outline the extension lines with parallel straight lines to the center of the front. We cut it from top to bottom and push it to the desired width, this will be an assembly for a yoke.

5. We take out the left panel of the skirt from the drawing. At the level of the tuck, there is a lining line on the right side of the TZNZ skirt, which combined the center to the center.

6. We make out the bottom of the board according to the pattern in the same way as in the right panel.

7. We cut out undercut selections with a width of 5-7 cm exactly according to the configuration of the sides of the right and left panels of the skirt.

8. The belt is cut out with a straight strip of fabric 8-10 cm wide equal to the waist circumference with an increase perpendicular to the warp threads

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep and stitch the tucks on the back panel and the left front panel. Iron them towards the center, ironing the slack at the top of the tuck through a damp iron.

2. If there is a middle seam in the back panel, then connect it, overcast and iron it. If there is no seam, then mark the center of the back panel with copy stitches or soap.

3. Collect the assembly on a double machine line with an interval of 0.5 cm and a stitch length of 4-5 mm,

4. Connect the undercut to the assembly by folding them face to face. Sweep and grind 1 cm from the cuts. Sweep allowances and iron in the direction of the coquette. On the front side, give a finishing line with line silk 0.1 or 0.5 cm from the edge (optional).

5. On the undercut picks from the inside, glue the adhesive pad with an iron. Fold them face to face with the main details and overstitch along the edge. Turn to the wrong side and baste a piping with a size of 0.1 cm from the side of the collar. On the front side, fasten the notch with a finishing line 0.1 or 0.5 cm from the edge. Remove basting threads. Silk should match the color of the main fabric,

6. On the back panel of the skirt, sweep the bottom with a hem seam with preliminary overcasting of sections on a special machine.

7. Fold face to face and the front panels of the skirt along the side seam, sweep, stitch with a seam width of 1 cm. Overcast the seams and iron them towards the back.

8. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt from the edge of the bead to the edge. Iron the entire product from the wrong side.

9. Overcast loops on the right panel. Perform them on machined parts or on the finished product,

10. On the left panel, they outline the place for sewing on buttons, necessarily combining the centers

in front. sew on buttons,

11. Hang the skirt on a trempel for complete hanging on. 40-45 min. The product is ready.

PLAN, LAYOUTS AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in fig. 79,

Straight wrap skirt with gathered waist

Skirt of a direct silhouette. Asymmetrical wrap front closure. On the right side of the bottom of the skirt there is an assembly along the waist line, whether the bottom is slightly rounded (Fig. 80). It is convenient to correct the change in the waist circumference with this model by simply altering the traveler or hook. The skirt is good for everyday wear for any typical figure (except for figures with a lively mo t, as the assembly will increase it even more).

The model can be made from any fabric of the dress group (excluding transparent chiffon, gauze, etc.),

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The drawing (Fig. 81) is based on the base mesh of a two-seam straight skirt (Fig. 14).

1. The back remains unchanged.

2. In the drawing of the front panel, we set aside to the right of the point T 1 (center) the amount of smell - the segment T1T5. It is desirable that it overlaps the tuck in the left front panel (this is how the finished product looks more aesthetically pleasing).

3. From point T5, lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with the bottom line. We get point H5. According to the pattern, smoothly round off the bottom of the right front panel of the skirt.

4. Mark the separation lines with parallel straight lines relative to the center line of the front panel. Cut along the lines from top to bottom. Extend the waist to the desired width, depending on the amount of assembly needed for the style. The larger the spread, the more assembly will be obtained. Groove automatically goes into assembly*

5. The left panel of the skirt remains unchanged. At the level of the tuck, there is a line of overlapping the edge of the starboard side, thereby closing the tuck. The bottom of the left panel is not rounded in style.

6. We cut out the undercut of the under-board according to the shape of the side of the right panel, 6-7 cm wide. The selection of the left panel can be either stitched according to the shape of the edge of the side, 5-7 cm wide, or one-piece. In the drawing, it is shown by a dotted line.

7. We cut out the belt with a width of 8-10 cm, more than the waist circumference by

approach (preferably at an angle of 45 degrees, if the fabric allows, or perpendicular to the warp threads).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

Assemble the assembly into two machine lines with a stitch of at least 4-5 mm.

Treat the edges of the boards with sewn-on d-boards; for this, glue the adhesive interlining with an iron from the wrong side of the hem. Fold the border with the edge of the bead face to face, overstitch with a seam 0.5 cm from the edge. Turn under the board to the wrong side of the product and sweep the piping from the side by 0.1 cm.

Sew darts on the back panel and the left front panel of the skirt. Iron them towards the center. At the top of the tuck, take off the slack through a damp iron on the front side of the product.

Connect the side seams. Fold the right sides inside the back with the front panels. Sweep, grind on a universal machine. Overcast the seams, iron in the direction of the back panel.

Prepare the belt.

Glue adhesive interlining-36 on the underbelt from the inside. Then iron with an iron. Stitch the upper belt to the skirt, folding them face to face, and tuck the allowance from the side of the subbelt a inward and sew on the front side with a finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge. Overstitch the edges of the belt, turn inside out and iron.

Punch a loop on the belt and sew on a button

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in fig. 83.

Straight skirt with triangular yoke and inverted pleat

This skirt model (Fig. 84) is recommended for women of the younger and middle age groups, with a thin waist and. not very wide hips. The skirt can be made in soft woolen or crepe fabric and will go great with a classic blouse.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

Initial data: St, C6, Du, Fri, - 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

We are building the basis for the design of a straight skirt (Fig. 14).

We find the size and position of the tucks, but we do not draw up the front and rear tucks yet.

We find the lines of coquettes: from points T and T1 we lay down 30 cm each and get points K and K1 (Fig. 85), we connect Point K with point 1, point K1: - with point 4. We transfer the ends of the tucks to the lines of coquettes and smooth lines we make out the second side of the tucks. From the points H and H 1 to the left and right, on the continuation of the bottom line, we set aside warehouses of 8-10 cm. To obtain soft folds at the yoke on the front of the skirt, we first draw the lines for the location of these folds (dashed line in Fig. 85). Then we cut the patterns along the lines starting from the coquette to the side ones so that it does not fall apart and move apart along each line by 3-4 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Lay the snares along the contour lines of the pattern with threads of a contrasting color.

2. Sweep from the front and from the wrong side of the warehouse on the front panel of the skirt. Pro iron through a damp iron.

3. Lay and sweep soft folds on the middle panel of the skirt along the line of attaching a triangular yoke.

4. Baste and sew with a seam 1-1.5 cm triangular yoke to the front panel

skirts, making a notch in the corner. During processing, the upper sections of the warehouses should fall and the tires of attaching the yoke, Overcast the seam of attaching the yoke and iron it towards the yoke. From the front side along the yoke, lay the finishing line with silk threads to match the color of the main fabric,

5. Sweep the warehouse on the back panel u & - from the front and back sides, iron through, ironing.

6. Baste and stitch a triangular yoke to the back panel of the skirt, making a notch in the corner. Overcast the stitching seam of the yoke and iron it towards the yoke. From the front

on the sides along the yoke, lay the finishing line 0.5 cm from the stitching line with silk threads.

7. Baste and stitch the side sections of the skirt, leaving the left side seam in the fastener area unstitched. Overcast the cuts, iron the seams.

8. Sweep in and sew a zipper into the left side seam. The size of the zipper is 18-20 cm.

9. Process the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt, having previously sewn adhesive non-woven fabric under the belt. The width of the finished belt is 5 cm.

10. Process the bottom edge of the skirt with a hem seam with a closed edge or an open edge, the bottom edge of the skirt has been overcast beforehand.

11, Iron the finished product.

LAYOUT PLAN AND WEAVING CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in fig. 86.


If the fabric is folded in half, then the allowances for warehouses on the front and back panels are cut out in one piece. The consumption of fabric with a width of 150 cm is equal to: the length of the skirt plus 12 cm (on the belt) plus allowances for the seams. With a width of 90 cm, the fabric consumption is equal to: two lengths of the skirt plus 12 cm (for the belt) plus seam allowances.

Straight skirt with symmetrical undercuts

Straight two-seam skirt with symmetrical undercuts on the front panel. From each undercut, three one-sided warehouses go out, laid towards the side. The darts of the front go to the undercut yoke (Fig. 87). For this skirt model, it is desirable to use gear or mixed fabrics. This skirt will suit women of any age group.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The skirt is built on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14, 88)

MODELING OF THE FRONT PANEL.

1. Extension along the bottom of the front and back half of the skirt - 2 cm.

2. The formation of an undercut - we draw an undercut through the end of the tuck. We transfer the tuck to the undercut line.

3. Warehouses - divide the undercut line into three equal parts and draw verticals down from the undercut. The width of the warehouse is 1/2 of its depth.

Cut off the upper allowances for the warehouses only after basting the warehouse with an undercut.

SKIRT MODELING.

1.. We close the tucks on the front panel of the skirt (Fig. 89).

2. We cut and push apart warehouses (rice, 90).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

Skirt sewing sequence.

After cutting the skirt, we are preparing for the first fitting.

1. We sweep the tucks on the back panel of the skirt from the top to the base.

2. We notice the warehouses from the front side and from the inside.

3. We sweep away warehouses with undercut.

4. We sweep the side sections, combining the control lines of the bottom, hips, waist.

5. We sweep the castle.

6. Bend the bottom allowance inside out and notice:

7. We measure the length of the cut along the waistline, collect it into two threads to prevent stretching.

8. We prepare a braid (lobar strip) equal in length to the volume of the waist plus 2-3 cm per entry.

9. Baste the braid to the cut of the waist line, throw it along the skirt.

FIRST SAMPLE.

1. We pay attention to the appearance of the skirt, how the product fits the figure at the waist and hips, whether the folds lie well, whether the bottom of the skirt is evenly folded, whether the length of the skirt is sufficient.

2. After trying on, we mark all changes with a contrasting thread. We remove the braid, rip the sides apart to process the front and back halves of the skirt separately.

PROCESSING ORDER OF THE SKIRT.

1. We grind tucks on the back panel of the skirt.

2. We produce wet-heat treatment of tucks:

a) we iron the tuck from the inside, as if pressing it down with an iron;

b) we iron the tuck on both sides;

c) suture the bulge at the end of the tuck;

d) iron the tuck from the front side through the iron to the center of the product.

3. We iron warehouses. The thread with which the warehouses are swept is not removed until the end of sewing,

4. We grind the warehouses with an undercut and iron the seam towards the undercut. We overcast the cut.

5. We grind the side sections, sweeping them again, combining the control lines. We iron the seams. We sew the left one to the fastener, we sew in the lock, we sew the belt

SECOND SAMPLE.

We specify the position of the fastener, we level the bottom of the product, then we sew in the lock, we process the bottom of the product and the upper cut of the skirt.

Straight skirt with symmetrical undercuts and an insert from the opposite warehouse

A double-seam skirt made of woolen or mixed fabric, and on the front panel of the skirt there are two symmetrical undercuts in the upper part. In the center of the front panel there is an insert from the opposite warehouse laid inside. The belt is stitched, there is no zipper on the side seam (Fig. 91).

This skirt model is more suitable for women of the younger and middle age group and will be perfectly combined with a classic cut blouse.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The design of this skirt model is based on a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14) by modeling the front panel (Fig. 92).

1. We translate the front darts 2 cm closer to the center.

2. We draw undercut lines through the ends of the tucks to the side cuts

3. We outline the insertion line on the front panel and divide it into 8 equal parts. The width of the warehouse is 1/2 of its depth.

4. Extension along the bottom of the front and back halves of the skirt - 2 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep the counter folds on the insert from the front side and from the inside to the center and iron from the front side through the ironing.

2. Baste the coquettes to the main part of the front panel and sew. Overcast the cuts. Press the stitching seams onto the coquettes.

3. Sweep the insert onto the front panel and sew it in, having previously made notches in the corners of the main part. Overcast the stitching seam and iron towards the main part.

4. Baste the darts on the back of the skirt and stitch, making bartacks at the tops of the darts.

Iron the darts to the center of the back panel

5. Sweep the side sections of the skirt, combining the control lines (waist, hips, bottom line).

6. Stitch the side seams of the skirt, leaving the left side seam in the zipper area unstitched. Overcast the cuts, iron the seams.

7. Sweep and sew in the zipper.

8. Process the top cut of the skirt with a stitched belt. The width of the belt in finished form is 3-4 cm.

9. Process the bottom of the skirt with a seam in the hem with a closed cut or with an open cut, having previously swept it up.


LAYOUT PLAN

The layout of patterns on the material is shown in fig. 94.

Straight skirt with symmetrical undercuts at front and back

This skirt model is a modification of a straight two-volume skirt. Symmetry-stump undercuts are made on the front and back panels. One-sided warehouses come out of them. Zip fastener in the side seam, belt stitched (Fig. 95).

This model of a skirt will suit women of any age group. It is advisable to use woolen or blended fabrics for its tailoring.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The design of this skirt model is based on a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14) by modeling the front and back panels (Fig. 96).

1. We outline the undercut lines on the drawing, as we want to see in finished form.

2. Divide the line of each undercut into four equal parts and draw vertical lines down from the undercut. The width of the warehouse is 1/2 of its depth.

Modeling of the front panel of the skirt is shown in fig. 97. Warehouses on the back panel of the skirt are similarly moved apart.


PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Baste the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt from top to bottom. Stitch the darts, making bartacks, iron them to the Centers of the panels. Slot the slack in the tops of the tucks.

2. Sweep the warehouses from the front side and from the inside, then iron them.

3. Sweep away folds with undercuts on the front and back panels of the skirt.

4. Stitch swept warehouses with undercuts. Sweep over the cuts, iron the stitching seams to the sides of the undercuts. On the front side, lay the finishing line 0.5 cm from the line of grinding the undercut with warehouses.

5. Baste and stitch the side sections of the skirt, aligning the control lines, leaving the left side seam in the fastener area unstitched. Overcast the cuts, iron the seams,

6. Sweep and sew in the zipper.

7. Treat the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt, after gluing adhesive non-woven fabric under the belt,

8. Sweep the bottom of the skirt.

9. Finish the bottom of the skirt with a seam in the hem with a closed cut.

10. Iron the skirt - The product is ready!

LAYOUT PLAN

The layout of patterns on the material is shown in fig. 98.

Straight skirt with slit pockets and soft folds at the waistline

The skirt is made on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt and can be sewn from dense woolen, raincoat or denim. The zipper is located in the center of the back. On an average seam of a back one-sided vent. Instead of tucks on the front, small warehouses are tucks. Stitched belt. On the front panel of the skirt there are pockets with a detachable barrel. There is a finishing line along the middle seam of the front and the edges of the pockets (Fig. 99).

This skirt is more suitable for women of the younger and middle age group. Suitable for wearing during the cold season.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The design of this skirt model is based on a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14),

1. We give an extension along the bottom of 1.5 cm (Fig. 100).

2. On the front half of the skirt, the tucks are transferred to small warehouses, but do not remain in the old place, but move closer to the center in style. The depth of each fold is equal to 1/2 of the tuck depth.

3. We outline the line of entry into the pocket on the front panel. The dotted line in the drawing is highlighted on the pocket burlap,

4. We give an allowance for the slot in the middle seam of the back panel (6-10 cm). We take the length of the slots equal to 20-25 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep small folds on the front of the skirt, sweep away the darts on the back of the skirt.

2. Baste the middle seam of the front half of the skirt.

3. Baste the cutting barrel to the pocket entry line.

4. Sweep the seam of the skirt of the rear panel to the place where the slot will be processed. Sweep the allowances of the slots on the wrong side.

5. Sweep side cuts, combining the control lines of the bottom, hips, waist. Baste allowances on both sides of the seam.

6. Sweep the zipper into the side seam.

7. Iron the allowance on the bottom inside out and sweep.

8. Prepare a braid (lobar strip) equal in length to the volume of the waist plus 2-3 cm per entry.

9. Baste the braid to the top cut of the skirt.

10. Carry out the first priming. Pay attention to the appearance of the skirt: how the product fits the figure at the waist and hips, whether the bottom of the skirt is evenly bent, whether the small folds along the waist line are the same, whether the cut of the pocket of the model matches, whether the length of the skirt and slots are sufficient. After trying on, mark all changes with a contrasting thread. Remove the braid, open the sides to separately process the front and back halves of the skirt,

11. Process skirt pockets (see below).

12. Stitch the middle seam of the front half of the skirt. Iron the seams, lay the finishing lines,

13. Stitch small folds, iron them to the center.

14. Sew up the middle seam of the back of the bottom of the skirt to the place where the slot will be processed.

15. Process the slot,

16. Sew darts on the back half of the skirt.

17. Carry out wet-heat treatment of tucks.

18. Stitch the side cuts, sweeping them again, aligning the control lines. Iron the seams. Sew up the left side to the fastener, tuck in the lock, tuck in the belt,

19. Perform a second fitting, during which to clarify the position of the fastener, trim the bottom of the product. Then sew in a lock, process a skirt and its upper cut with a stitched belt.

PROCESSING OF SKIRT POCKETS

To strengthen the pocket entrance to the wrong side of the main part, bast an edge or a gasket, baste a one-piece facing with burlap face to face with a pocket entrance and turn the cut with a seam of 0.5-0.7 cm. Cut the gasket from the seam, make a notch on the roundings. Turn out, sweep and iron. Lay the finishing line of the th model. On the cutting barrel, mark the line of entry into the pocket, attach the cutting barrel to the main part, stitch the parts of the burlap with a 1 cm seam, fasten the entrance to the pocket with bartacks perpendicular to the entry line, iron the pocket.

CUT RULES

When cutting symmetrical parts, the fabric is folded in half with the right side inward, and the wrong side outward. The edges of the fabric in this case must be combined and fastened with pins along their edge.

When cutting asymmetrical parts of the skirt, the fabric should be laid out in one layer with the right side down. paper details patterns are superimposed on the fabric with the side on which the inscriptions were not made

Straight skirt with asymmetrical drapery

Skirt of a straight silhouette with asymmetric drapery of a romantic style (Fig. 101). For this model, all types of soft viscous fabrics (velor, velvet, panne velvet, plush, spandex, some types of stretch fabrics) are suitable, since beam drapery is used here in the transverse-oblique direction. If it is made of elegant fabric, it will be quite appropriate for special occasions.

This model is well suited for women of middle age flu with a properly folded figure. However, this skirt is not suitable for women with a sharply defined belly, as the drapery visually draws attention to itself, and will highlight the belly even more due to its volume.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

Patterns are removed from the drawing of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14). The back remains unchanged, B the middle seam is sewn in with a “zipper”. On the middle seam of the back there is a slot at the bottom.

1. On the horizontal line of the bottom to the left, lay off the segment HH5 equal to 5 cm (Fig. 102).

2. We draw a segment vertically up to the desired length of the slots - this will be the length of the slots in style,

3. The front is built in expanded form. According to the pattern, a cutting part 2 is drawn up (the main part of the skirt is 1),

4. The top of the left tuck is lifted up so that it touches the cut-off part. New side parts of the tuck are drawn. Both darts will close. The left side of the side is divided into 5 equal parts exactly like the right, but the size of the right parts should be slightly larger. For example, the left side is 2 cm, the right side is 3 cm.

5. Connect the resulting points with smooth curves along the pattern.

TECHNICAL MODELING (FIG. 103).

1. 1. We take out the cutting part 2 from the drawing.

2. Close the darts.

3. Cut the relief lines towards the side,

4. We move the drapery to the desired width, taking into account the structure and softness of the fabric. The more there will be a separation, the more drapery, therefore, there will be more volume in the abdomen.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Connect the middle seam of the back, folding the parts face to face. Sweep and grind, leaving 15-16 cm at the top for the "lightning" and at the bottom - the size of the slots.

2. Grind the tucks, iron them to the center, ironing the slack at the top.

3. The drapery is assembled on two machine lines with a stitch width of 4-5 mm. They are pulled together by an amount equal to the side parts of the cutting part N 2,

4. Part No. 2 is folded face to face with the front of the skirt, turned along the constructive shaped lines. The seams are overcast, ironed in the direction of part No. 2 and fixed with a finishing line on the front side 0.1 mm from the edge.

5. A slot is processed in the back (see below).

6. When the front and back are prepared, they are folded face to face and basted, and then grind along the side seam. The seams are overcast and ironed from the wrong side through a damp iron,

7. Process the bottom with a seam in a hem with preliminary overcasting of the cut. If the skirt is sewn from elegant fabric (velor * velvet), then the hem is hemmed manually with blind stitches.

8- The top of the skirt is treated with a stitched belt.

9. Punch loops and sew on buttons.

10. The finished skirt is ironed and hung for 20-30 minutes to sag.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut in a turn of the fabric, especially if the fabric is fleecy. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in fig. 104.

Straight skirt with symmetrical oval drapery

Skirt of a direct silhouette of romantic style. Double-sided drapery is made in the middle of the front panel. The undercut is made with a concave curved line, from which the drapery goes to the bottom of the skirt. The clasp is made on the back with loops and hooks (Fig. 105).

This skirt model is mainly suitable for women of the middle age group and for young people. The only limitation in this case is the unsharp protruding belly. The skirt can be made from various types of fabrics depending on the purpose: for special occasions - from any kind of soft, draped elegant fabric, for everyday wear - from any type of fabric of the dress group, for example, crepe.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

1. The back remains unchanged (the middle seam of the back is connected before reaching the top by the amount of the fastener for loops and hooks),

2. The front is built in expanded form (Fig. 106).

3. On the front, symmetrically under the pattern, an undercut line AB is outlined.

4. From points A and B, undercut lines are drawn symmetrically to the sides, along which later separation will be carried out for drapery. Moreover, segment AB is divided into an equal number of parts relative to the middle line of the front, since in the middle of the front there is

the seam. On the sides, T2H4 is also divided into an equal number of parts.

5. The points of the segment A B, respectively, are connected to the points along the side parts of the skirt, these are the drapery extension lines.

6. Cut off the top yoke in front of the skirt. Cut the drapery from the center to the sides and move it to the desired width.

TECHNOLOGICAL SIMULATION (FIG. 107)

1. Cut off the yoke, close the darts on the front

2. Make oblique cuts from the yoke to the sides of the skirt and expand to the desired width.

3. Before the skirt remains along the shared thread, that is, along the line of the warp thread of the fabric.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep, stitch the middle seam of the back with a machine line with a stitch width of 0.2-0.3 cm. Remove the basting threads. Iron the seam, after overcasting.

2. Make a hook and loop fastening (see below).

3. Collect drapery on two machine lines with a maximum stitch length, having previously swept and stitched the middle seam of the front of the skirt and the front of the yoke. Overcast seams and iron.

4. Connect the drapery with the yoke, folding the details face to face, baste and stitch. Overcast the seam and iron on the yoke. From the side of the coquette, give a finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge,

5. Baste and stitch the side seams, folding the details of the back and front of the skirt face to face. Overcast the seams, iron towards the back.

6. Process the upper section of the skirt with a stitched belt,

Process the bottom of the skirt with a seam in the hem with preliminary overcasting of the edge of the product

HOOK AND LOOP PROCESSING

The cut edge of the allowance of the upper side of the fastener is treated with a share turning, cut out from the main or lining fabric, the inner edge of which should reach the fold and serve as an edge and lining under the hooks for the upper side of the fastener

The allowance of the bottom side of the fastener is processed in the same way as the top, but the inner cut of the facing is processed depending on the thickness of the fabric. When processing the top of the skirt, the upper corner of the fastener is turned along the edge of the upper side of the fastener at a distance of 0.5-1 cm. A line is laid, finishing it perpendicularly or obliquely to the edge of the fastener. The fastener at the end is fixed with two transverse lines.

Hooks are sewn to the top of the fastener, thread loops to the bottom.

The upper hook in the clasp of the skirt is placed at an angle of 45 degrees to the edge of the clasp and at a distance of 0.5 cm from the top and side edges.

LAYOUT PLAN.

The skirt is cut in a reversal of the fabric. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in Figure 108.

Straight skirt with swing type drapery

Model of a straight silhouette of a romantic style with an extended shape of the hips. There is a seam in the center of the front. bottom line is slightly rounded. But in fact, the role of the fastener is performed by the “zipper” in the central neck of the back. As one of the options, it is possible to make pockets in the drapery on the sides (Fig. 109).

The skirt is suitable for women with narrow hips, as the drapery running along this part of the body makes them visually wider. Suitable for everyday wear, but preferably with blouses tucked in, since the whole “highlight” of this skirt model is in the hips, and this part is not recommended to be closed. The model is suitable for women of any age, and depending on the purpose can be used different kinds fabrics.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

1. The back and front patterns are removed from the drawing of a straight-cut skirt with two seams on the sides (Fig. 14).

2. The back remains unchanged.

3. Since the drapery is symmetrical on both sides, the front of the skirt is built on one half (that is, the fabric will be folded in half in width).

4. On the front, the lower line of drapery is outlined according to the pattern, the segment of the curve is aa 2.

5. The top of the tuck of the front panel a3a is transferred here. Point a3(1) is connected to point a1 by a smooth curve along the pattern (Fig. 110),

6. On the side, two other points a 4 and a5 are outlined: which are connected to the side peaks of the tuck, Then they will be cut and moved apart for a drapery called a “swing”.

7. The bottom of the front is slightly rounded, which is also made according to the pattern.

8. There is an assembly along the waistline from the center of the front to the drape. To do this, draw a cue parallel to the center of the front segment T2H2. We get the segment T5H5.

Then we cut the segment T1H1 in the direction from the waist to the bottom line and push it to the desired width, which provides freedom in the waist area.

9. If pockets are provided according to the model, then they are cut out in the normal state of the front, starting from the upper drapery line a5a1 (in Fig. 110 the pocket is outlined by a dotted line), which corresponds to the size of your palm,

10. We take out the front pattern and make the appropriate extensions.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Stitch the darts along the back panel of the skirt, iron them to the center, in the top area, take off the slack through a wet iron.

2. Connect the central seam of the back, overcast the seams and iron from the wrong side.

3. Sweep and sew in the "zipper".

4. Baste and stitch the middle seam of the front. Overcast the seam and iron it in different directions.

5. Connect the points a 2, a4 and a5, laying the folds up the side. We get drapery on the side of the swing type. We fix it with pins (Fig. 111).

6. Along the waistline, we assemble the drapery into two machine lines or lay it in folds. The main thing is that in the finished form there should be a correspondence to the volume of the waist,

7. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt, having previously connected the side seams.

8. The belt consists of two halves with a seam located in the center of the front. We fold it face to face with the skirt, combined the central seams of the front. After processing the belt on the front side, on both sides of the central seam, we sew finishing buttons at the same distance,

9. We process the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with preliminary overcasting of the cut or hem it with blind stitches if the skirt is made of elegant fabric.

10. We break through the loop and sew on a button on the belt.

11, The product is ironed and broadcast for sagging.

LAYOUT PLAN

The layout is done on a double folded fabric, since all the details of the cut are symmetrical. If the model provides pockets in the side seams, then they are cut out in accordance with the layout plan (Fig. 112),

Pleated straight skirt

This skirt is modeled on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt. The decoration is a pleated insert on the front. There is a seam in the center front. The starting point for the undercut for the warehouse is chosen arbitrarily (at your request), but it is advisable to choose it at the level of the knee. Zip fastener located in the side seam (Fig. 113).

Thus, this model of a direct silhouette of a business strict style. The skirt will look good on women with a typical figure and will be appropriate for everyday wear, for work and business meetings. It is advisable to sew this skirt model from fabric with the addition of cotton, wool or lavsan, so that the folds are well fixed and not wrinkled during pleating.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS

The back and front patterns are removed from the drawing of a straight-cut skirt with two seams on the sides (Fig. 14).

1. We select point A - the beginning of the undercut on the middle front line.

2. We select point B - the end of the undercut on the bottom line.

3. We connect these points and get the segment AB (there is no seam along the line AH1, there is a fabric fold) (Fig. 114).

4. We extend the bottom line to the right, we get the segment H1B1 equal to H1B (triangle ABH 1 turned upside down in a mirror image).

We get the whole insert ABB 1 .

5. Segment BB 1 is divided into an equal number of segments (warehouse).

6. From point A, perpendicular to the center of the front, we set aside segments to the right and to the left at an equal distance. We get points A1 and A 2 .

7. We connect point A 1 with the lower right points of the triangle. This is the direction of the warehouse. We connect point A 2 with the lower points

left triangle, this is also the direction of the warehouse.

8. We cut along the lines obtained from the bottom up and push the warehouses to the desired width.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Fold the pleating face to face with the side parts of the undercut, having previously connected the middle seam of the front of the skirt and ironed it, sweep, stitch with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. Overcast and iron the seams towards the main panel of the skirt.

On the front side, give a finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge, thereby securing the seam allowance.

2. Connect the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt, stitch, iron to the center.

3. Fold the panels face to face, sweep along the side seams, leaving a distance for the “lightning” in the left side. Stitch, overcast, iron the seams in different directions,

4. Sweep and sew in the zipper.

5. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt,

6. Process the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with a preliminary overcasting of the cut.

7. Iron the finished skirt through a damp iron.


LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut in a reversal of the fabric. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in fig. 116.

Straight skirt flared at the yoke

Romantic style skirt, flared down. An asymmetric yoke is made on the front, a zipper on the left side. A braid is sewn on the belt in an oblique direction, which also trims the edge of the yoke (Fig. 117),

The skirt is suitable for everyday wear. It is mainly made from light, flying fabrics, and can be combined: the yoke can be made from a plain fabric, and the frill can be made from transparent, such as chiffon or kapron. The model is well suited for younger women and women. middle age group with a slim figure.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

Patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of a straight two-seam skirt in expanded form (Fig. 14).

1. An asymmetric yoke is outlined on the back panel of the skirt .. The cut line of the yoke is segment AB (Fig. 118).

2. Accordingly, on the front panel, points A and B of the yoke - on the side should match.

3. Sliding lines are outlined along the bottom of the front and rear panels,

4. We resolve along the lines and make the separation at the bottom more than along the AB line so that the shuttlecock is caged. Along the cut line of the coquette AB, we expand to the desired assembly width.

5. Darts on yokes are usually closed (for a more aesthetic look). To do this, those tucks, the tops of which touch the yoke line, are simply closed, and in other cases, a straight line descends from the top onto the yoke. Along the dotted line, it is cut to the top (the tuck is then closed), and opens at the bottom, that is, we transfer the tuck from the waist down. At what distance the tuck opened at the bottom, by such a value it is necessary to remove it from the side adjacent to it.


PROCESSING TECHNOLOGIES

1. Collect the upper edges of the frills on two machine lines with a maximum stitch length with a distance of 0.5 cm

2. Bend the edges of straight coquettes along the intended line, sweep and iron. Connect the coquettes by stitching, tuning and overhead methods (Fig. 120).

3. Fold the yoke with the frill face to face, equalizing the cuts. Baste and stitch with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm, overcast the seam and iron it towards the yoke. On the front side, fasten with a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the edge,

4. Sew the tape on both sides in a straight line along the edge of the yoke by 0.1 cm on each side.

5. Baste and stitch the side seams, combining the coquettes on the side. On the left side of the side, we sweep in and sew in a “zipper”.

6. Overcast seams and iron from the wrong side.

7. Process the bottom of the skirt with a seam in the hem. preliminary overcasting of the edge or a seam with a double hem of the edge (“Moscow” seam).

8. On the belt on the right side of the front, stitch the braid in an oblique direction.

9. Finish the top of the skirt with a stitched belt.

10. Punch a loop and sew on a button.

11. Iron the product from the inside or from the front side through a damp iron.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut in a reversal of the fabric. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in fig. 121.

Straight skirt with frill frill

This skirt has a straight silhouette in a romantic style. On her front in the middle neck - a warehouse in the context. The level of the beginning of the incision is at the level of the knee or slightly lower. On the belt, two finishing buttons frame the middle seam; one-sided folds on the belt, directed from top to bottom, serve as decoration (Fig. 122).

Such a skirt is basically good for holidays and celebrations, thanks to a beautiful decoration on the front - a “kokilje” frill. It is suitable for slender women with a typical figure. The model can be made from any fabric of a light group, dress, elegant (with the exception of translucent ones, such as chiffon). It looks good from a plain canvas or from a fabric in small peas. Frill "coquilla" can be made from a fabric of the same texture as the main one, but slightly different in color (preferably lighter). The same fabric can wrap the finishing buttons on the belt.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

Patterns are removed from the drawing of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. We leave the back unchanged.

2. On the middle seam of the front, the point of the beginning of the cut A is selected.

3. From this point to the right, AB is laid off from the cuts, equal to two widths of the finished warehouse, since this warehouse is opposite.

4. From point T 1 to the right, set aside 1 cm seam allowance. We get the point T 2 .

5. We connect point T1 with point B with a smooth curve (the warehouse itself in Fig. 123 is shown with hatching).

6 .Modeling "mould". "Kokilya"Cut out in a spiral (Fig. 124). The inner length of the entire spiral should be equal to the length of the middle seam in front of the skirt, that is, the segment T1H1 The width of the spiral is selected according to the model, in the future - this is the width of the frill in finished form.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Process the marked part of the frill with a seam with a double hem of the edge to the wrong side (“Moscow” or garter stitch).

2. Put it inside out on the face of the front panel of the skirt. Baste,

3. Fold the front panels of the skirt face to face, sweep and stitch along the center seam. Overcast and iron the allowances in different directions, leaving the cut unstitched. Remove basting threads.

4. Sweep and grind the tucks on the front and back panels. Iron them towards the center, sutyuzhivaya slack in the top area.

5. Fold the panels face to face and sweep along the side seams, leaving room for the "lightning" in the left side seam. Stitch, overcast the seams and iron in different directions.

6. Sweep and sew in a “zipper”,

7. Process the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with a preliminary overcasting of the cut.

8. Prepare the field:

- cut out a strip of fabric equal to half the length of the belt (since there is a seam in the middle of the front) and a width of three volumes greater than the width of the belt in finished form;

- sweep and stitch one-sided warehouses of the selected width according to the style;

- fold the top waistband with the stitched folds face to face with the bottom waistband and overstitch along the top edge. After that, turn it out;

- connect the two halves along the middle seam;

- straighten the belt (that is, stretch the lower open sections with an iron, which will connect to the waist of the skirt, and sew the upper seam of the belt) - The belt should look like an arc in its finished form (in this form it fits better to the waist).

9. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt.

10. Punch a loop and sew on a button (see below).

FOR LAYOUT

The skirt is cut on fabric folded in half. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in fig. 125,

Straight skirt with flared cape

This romantic style skirt is good for holidays and formal occasions. Solemnity is given to it by a detachable cape, especially if it is made of expensive elegant fabric. But at the same time, the skirt is strict, as it is made on the basis of a straight two-seam. The cape is sewn into the belt starting from the location of the tucks along the front and across the entire width of the back panel, and it is shortened in front, and longer in the back and converges with its tail to the center of the back panel (thus, an imitation of a train occurs) (Fig. 126).

The skirt itself can be made of black strict fabric, and the cape can be made of black shiny brocade type (evening version); from white elegant fabric for women who prefer to perform a solemn ceremony of marriage in a suit, and not in a dress. The belt is trimmed with buttons sewn at the level of the beginning of the cape along the front.

Such a skirt will suit both women with typical figures and those with fuller hips, since the cape hides this part of the body. Recommended to wear with classic shoes on a hairpin, which makes the figure taller and slimmer.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. Front and back remain unchanged,

2. A point is selected along the side. A. T2A - length for capes on the side (Fig. 127),

3. We connect point A with a straight line to the top of the tuck in front of point B.

Section BB1 - the length of the cape along the front (tuck on the front closes).

4. Point A is connected by a straight line with point A1 along the back, segment TA1 is the length of the cape along the back.

5. Vertical lines of extension are drawn, perpendicular to the line of the bottom of the skirt. Cut from the bottom to the waist line. Thus, we translate the tuck on the back down, closing it at the waist.

CAPE MODELING

The larger the wiring, the more tail will be on it in finished form (Fig. 128),

It is possible to make a cape without a side seam. In this case, it is necessary to connect the parts along the side seam in a straight line, and side tuck just fit at the waist or close, transferring the cape to the bottom (Fig. 129).

In this case, you can make the cape removable (since the waist of the skirt and the cape exactly match), and fasten it, for example, in front of the confusion.


PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Stitch the darts on the front and back of the skirt, iron towards the center, suturing the slack at the top.

2. Baste and stitch the middle seam of the back, leaving room for the “lightning”, Overcast and iron the allowances from the inside

3. Sweep, stitch a “lightning” into the middle seam.

4. Fold the details of the skirt face to face, sweep the side seams, stitch with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. Overcast and iron the allowances.

5. Process the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with a preliminary overcasting of the edge. Iron the seam from the front side through a damp iron.

6. Sew the belt to the skirt.

Cape processing

1. If the cape is cut according to the second option (without side seams), then process its front part with BB1 and the bottom with a seam with a double hem of the edge to the wrong side (Moscow seam). If according to the first option, then first stitch and overcast the side seams of the cape, and then process the bottom.

2. Process the cut of the waist of the cape with an edging seam. To do this, cut out an oblique or transverse trim with a width equal to twice the width of the piping plus 1-1.5 cm. see Seam around the inlay, forming an edging. Sew it from the front side at a distance of 0.l-0.2 cm from the fold, while on the wrong side the line should run 0.1 cm from the inner seam of the inlay. Iron from the wrong side. Punch a loop at an angle to the front line of the cape for the size of a button for sewing it to the skirt.

3. Sew buttons on the front of the skirt at the level of the front darts.

4. Fasten (or fasten in the seam of attaching the belt) cape.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut on fabric folded in half. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in fig. 130.

Straight skirt with rectangular inset and three one-sided folds

A straight skirt with a rectangular inset and three one-sided folds on the side is a modified straight skirt (Fig. 139). It will suit women of the younger and middle age groups and will be very comfortable both for everyday wear and for special occasions. This skirt can be made from any fabric of the dress-suit group, and for greater contrast, the side folds can be made from a material similar in structure to the main one, not different in color and. even drawing.

BUILDING A DRAWING, STRUCTURES

Initial data: St, Sat, Du, Fri = 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

We are building the basis for the design of a straight skirt with an unfolded front panel (Fig. 14).

1. Draw a relief line on the front panel, as shown in fig. 140.

2. From point B3 (the point of intersection of the relief line with the line of the hips), set aside 5 cm upwards and set point B 4.

3. From point B 4 we draw a perpendicular to the relief line and at the intersection with the line T2H2 we set point E5.

4. Set aside 10 cm down from the BZ point and set point 1, through which we draw a line parallel to the segment B4B5 and at the intersection with the T2H2 line, set point 2.

5. Draw lines for the location of one-sided warehouse. To do this, divide the segment indicated by points 1-2 into 3 equal parts (so: as the number of warehouses is 3), and draw straight lines perpendicular to the bottom line through the points obtained.

6. Cut off the left side of the front panel along the relief line, then cut it along the line of a rectangular insert passing through points B 4 B5, 2, 1,

7. We cut the pattern along the lines of the warehouse and move it to the width of the allowance for each warehouse. For a one-sided warehouse, the allowance is 8 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Lay the snares along the contour lines of the pattern.

2. Sweep and stitch tucks on the back of the skirt. Produce WTO tucks.

3. Sew a tuck on the right half of the front panel. Produce WTO darts,

4. Sweep one-sided warehouses from the front and back sides.

5. Sweep and stitch parts of the left half of the front panel of the skirt. The width of the seam in this case is 1-1.5 cm. Overcast the sections. Iron the seams towards the waist line. On the front side, lay the finishing lines by 0.5 cm (as shown in Fig. 139).

6. Sweep and stitch two parts of the front panel of the skirt along the relief line with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm.

A classic pencil skirt is an essential part of a woman's wardrobe. Being universal, it is the base of any image, giving it femininity and elegance. The history of its creation surprises with a variety of versions - both Coco Chanel and English women are called the authors of the model. But the popularity of the pencil skirt is uniquely due to Christian Dior, who promoted it to the fashion catwalks in the 40s. How to build a pencil skirt pattern, what models can be created on its basis, you will learn from this article.

We will first need to remove three sizes:

• waist size (OT) - we measure at the narrowest point, tightly clasping the waist with a tape;
• hip volume (OB) - we measure at the most convex places of the buttocks; for ladies with the effect of "riding breeches" we make a measurement for this volume, we use a larger number to build a pattern;
• hip height (WB) - we measure on the side from the waist line to the hip line, after tying a thin tape over them for ease of measurement;
• product length (CI) - measure from the waist to the planned length.

Measurement locations - see the figure below.

For the subject drawing of a pencil skirt pattern, let's assume that these measurements are:

• FROM=70 cm;
• OB=98 cm;
• CI=74 cm;
• WB = 20-22cm (this is the average measurement, it is usually used to build the main pattern; if your parameters are very different from it, use your numbers).

Let's prepare paper for constructing a base pattern (preferably millimeter paper, it is more convenient to set aside dimensions on it), a pattern, a ruler and pencils.

We start from the upper left point, and from there we will move down and to the right.

Stepping back 5 cm from the top and the left edge of the paper, put a point (∙) A. Vertically down, set aside the length of the product - AD. On the right side, we set aside half the volume of the hips plus 1 cm for a free fit = 98/2 + 1 cm = 50 cm - (∙) V. We draw the DC and BC lines.

Side skirt line

We divide the drawn rectangle in half by drawing a perpendicular line to the segments DC and AB.

hip line

From (∙) A lay down 20-22 cm - AL (= hip height). Draw a horizontal line from (∙)L, getting (∙)L1 and (∙)L2.

Dart size calculation

Calculation formula (OB - OT): 2 \u003d (98 - 70): 2 \u003d 14 cm. Of these, 1⁄2 will be removed in the side tucks (14: 2): 2 \u003d 3.5 cm for each. Set aside 3.5 cm from the sideline and connect these (∙) with (∙) L2.

We extend the lines of the darts by 1 cm up.

If the difference between OB and OT is more than 14 cm, two tucks are made at the back. The first one is 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, its depth is 3-4 cm, the length is 13-15 cm. The rest of the segment is divided in half, the depth of the second tuck is 2-3 cm, the length is 12-13 cm.

We connect the curved curve (∙)1 and (∙)A, (∙)1 and (∙)B. We divide the segment L L2 equally and draw a perpendicular to the segment AB. From (∙) B1 we measure to the right along the red pattern line 5-6 cm (the same parameter for all solutions), draw a perpendicular to the line of the hips.

The remaining excess in terms of volume at the waist - 7 cm - is distributed to the tucks of the back and front parts of the skirt. Most - 4 cm will go to the back, the smaller - 3 cm - to the front. The length of the tuck on the back part is 12-13 cm, for the front part - 9-10 cm (the same number for all solutions).

We take the tuck to the left by 5 mm for beauty.

Please note that the deeper the tuck is required, the longer it should be.

Divide the side lines in the areas from the waist to the hips in half and set aside 5 mm from these (∙).

Using a template or by hand, we draw a side line.

Drawn patterns are transferred to tracing paper or other paper. We designate the direction of the shared thread.

The basic cut assumes a seamless front of the skirt. The back part is cut with a seam into which a zipper is inserted. A belt is attached to the waist line.

We build a pencil skirt pattern: video master class

Designing various models of a skirt based on a basic pattern

Tapered skirt with two flounces

For such a model, you first need to complete the basic pattern of a pencil skirt with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on the Anastasia Korfiati website, you can download a skirt pattern for free.

On the constructed skirt pattern, we perform modeling, as in the figure below. Both front and back we narrow down by one and a half cm. We start narrowing, stepping back 10 cm from the hip line.

The estimated length of the skirt from the waist line is 70 cm.

We draw a shuttlecock on the front part. Then we reshoot it in expanded form separately, correcting the lower edge, smoothing out the stepped transitions at the junction points.

Cutting out a pencil skirt with a frill

Such a model of a pencil skirt is perfectly sewn from knitwear or any dress fabric with elastane additives.

To perform, you will need 1.7 m of fabric with a width of 145 cm. See the main cutting details below. In addition, we cut out a belt with a width of 7 cm (in finished form - 3.5 cm), a length - along the length of the waist plus 3 cm of an increase in the fastener. To strengthen the belt, it is better to use thermal fabric.

When laying out on fabric, keep in mind that the seam allowances should be 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the skirt - 3 cm.

Skirt tailoring

We cut out all the details. We fold the details of the shuttlecocks in pairs with the front side inward, sew along the rounded edge, turn it inside out, baste this edge and iron it.

We bend the shuttlecocks along lines 1 and 2, avoiding asymmetry.

We sweep and stitch the front and back tucks. We iron. We sweep the frills on the front part of the skirt along the marked places on the waist and sides.

We carry out side seams, iron the allowances and process the edges. If you use this pattern for sewing a knitted pencil skirt, then it is better to process the edges of the details with a slanting silk hem. Sew a hidden zipper into the back seam.

Sew on a belt at the waist.

We tuck the bottom of the skirt, overstitching it with a double needle. You can do otherwise - go along the edge with an overlock, bend the edge and manually sew it with a blind seam.

Skirt with buttons: MK video

Peplum pencil skirt

Such model fit slim girls. For ladies with size 48 and above, it is better to choose skirts without details that increase the hips.

First you need to build a pattern according to your size (see the step-by-step instructions above) or download it on the Anastasia Korfiati website.

We decide on the style of the Basque. It can be different - the same in length, elongated in the center of the back. Then we build a peplum pattern.

For example, the given finished pattern is drawn for a peplum length of 20 cm without differences along the profile.

For the calculation, we use the formula: R \u003d FROM: 6 - 1 cm. We draw a semicircle, and setting aside 20 cm from it, we draw the second line.

To lengthen the back, we increase one side of the pattern to 25-30 cm. We draw a smooth line connecting the lower ones (∙).

Models of straight skirts with various frills look very impressive. Just keep in mind that the blouse in this case should be concise, without ruffles.

Front slit pencil skirt with vertical flounce

For such a model, you first need to build a basic pencil skirt pattern with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on the Anastasia Korfiati website, you can download a skirt pattern for your size.

We copy on tracing paper in front of the skirt in full turn - see drawing.

For a pencil skirt with a cut, draw a vertical line and cut the pattern.

The back part for the skirt of this model does not change, we cut it out of 2 parts according to the basic drawing.

To the narrower part of the front, add an allowance for the slot. Its width is 8 cm, length is 14 cm.

On the larger part of the front we draw a shuttlecock.

We re-shoot all the elements of the shuttlecock on tracing paper and glue it into a common part along the long sides.

With smooth rounding, you need to create a beautiful outer side of the shuttlecock. How to do it correctly is marked in the drawing with a blue line.

cutting

Main fabric:

• front part - 1 pc.;
• front side detail - 1 pc.;
• rear part - 2 pcs.

Black cotton fabric:

• detail for processing a shuttlecock - 1 pc. (on the drawing in blue);
• belt - 1 pc. (length is FROM + 4 cm per clasp, width - 7 cm).

Do not forget to take into account the allowances for the seams of 1.5 cm, for the hem of the bottom - 4 cm. We strengthen the belt with a thermal fabric, cut out without allowances.

How this model is sewn

We fold the large part of the front and the part of black fabric for processing the shuttlecock with the right sides inward.

We sweep their outer edge and the outer edge of the slots. We cut the details, cut off the allowances, turn the shuttlecock inside out. We sweep the shuttlecock along the edge, iron it.

We process the side of the front part with an overlock, turn the allowance - 4 cm - onto the slot, and tack.

We impose the central part of the skirt on the side, aligning along the line and basting.

We adjust along the alignment line to the slots.

Sew a zipper into the back seam. Sweep and stitch the side seams.

We tuck the allowance on the bottom to the wrong side and tuck by hand with a blind seam.

Lay the slot and tack with a hidden seam.

We tack the lower part of the frill along the longitudinal side to the skirt with a hidden seam.

We sew a belt, sew a hook for a fastener.

Straight skirt with slit

The skirt with a slit is modeled on the basis of a classic straight model. Interesting details are implemented in it - a yoke with vertical embossed seams, a slot along the back seam, fastened with buttons. Under such a skirt, you can easily pick up a light summer blouse in the kit.

We are building basic pattern according to its size or search and download ready-made on the Internet. On the site of A. Karfiati there are options for different sizes, you can find online lessons on building drawings of skirts.

How to make a pattern of a pencil skirt with a slot

Now let's start modeling. We lay down 15 cm from the level of the hips. We draw the level of the coquette and cut it off. From the lower (∙) tuck we lower the perpendicular (red dotted line in the drawing). We cut the yoke of the back along the lines of the tuck and the red dotted line. We draw a slot 8 cm wide.

For the front part, repeat the level of the yoke and the perpendicular from the bottom (∙) tuck.

cutting

For the back half, cut out 2 pcs. every detail.

For the front, cut out 2 pcs. side parts of the coquette and 1 pc. other parts with a fold.

In addition, we cut out the belt. Its length is OT + 8 cm for the fastener and free fit.

How to sew

We are basing embossed seams on both coquettes, we stitch them with an indent of 7 mm. Baste and stitch the seams on the side of the coquettes. We sew a hidden zipper into the central seam on the back yoke.

From the right side of the lower panel of the back of the skirt we cut off a strip 4 cm long, leaving 4 cm for the hem of the slots on the right and 8 cm on the left. We strengthen the allowance for the slot on both parts with a thermal cloth. The right allowance with a width of 4 cm is tucked and ironed. We sweep along the marking of the loops.

We tuck the left allowance 4 cm and iron it.

We put the right side on the left, sweep at the top.

We sweep the lower panels of the skirt on the sides, we sew.

Sweep the yoke with the bottom part. Sew, stepping back 7 mm from the edge. Sew on the belt.

Wrap skirt: video master class

Draped skirt

A draped element on the sides and a buckle on the stitched belt give this model a special originality. You can sew such a skirt using materials of different composition and color. The main thing is that they are soft, drape beautifully and keep their shape.

We start by building a basic model according to our r-frames, or we find finished pattern, for example, on the website of A. Korfiati.

Next, we will consider the modeling process step by step. Set aside 3 cm down from the waist line on the front part and draw a set-in belt 7 cm wide (blue on the pattern). Belt lines should be smooth. A belt is sewn between (∙) a-a. We re-shoot the belt as a separate element.

Cut the front into two vertical parts along the auxiliary line (red). We cut the left part horizontally along the blue lines and push the drapery between (∙) b-b, adding from 10 to 15 cm for folds.

The back of the skirt is modeled similarly, but without the yoke.

The drawing below shows the modeling of the front part and the middle part with the front yoke.

To process the upper cut, we re-shoot and draw the facings on the front and back panels of the skirt 4 cm wide.

cutting

Details for the pattern, their number - see below. Do not forget about 1.5 cm for the side allowances and 4 cm for the bottom allowance. Details highlighted in dark color are cut out, in addition to the main fabric, from the lining.

Description of sewing model skirt with drapery

We sew the side parts with auxiliary lines with a long stitch (4 mm) in sections b-b. We pick them up to the desired size, distributing evenly.

We sew parts of the coquettes in front. Overcast the allowances with one joint seam and iron them on the coquettes.

We grind the stitched belt along the upper and lower long sides, turn it inside out, and sweep it out. We put on a buckle. We put a belt between (∙) a-a on the central part of the front and tack. Sew the draped details to the central details of the front and back of the skirt.

Sweep and stitch the side seams. Overcast allowances, iron out. Sew a zipper into the center seam of the back piece.

We strengthen the facing of the front and back parts with a thermal fabric, overcast them along the bottom, grind them on the sides. We put the facings on the skirt, combining along the upper sections, we sew along the waist.

We bend the facings up, iron them, sew them along the seam, sewing allowances to the facings.

After that, we again fold it onto the skirt and stitch along the short sides to the back halves along the zipper braid. We bend the facings to the wrong side, sweep and iron.

We turn the bottom allowance to the wrong side and hem it with a blind seam.

Pencil skirt with decorative zippers: video MK

Lace pencil skirt

This eye-catching lace skirt is tapered at the bottom and has a slit at the back. The upper transparent skirt is made of black lace, the lining is made of light fabric (satin or any blend).

The average length of a skirt below the knees is 66 cm, but you can sew such a translucent skirt even longer by proportionally increasing the length of the back slit.

We build the main pattern of the skirt or use the finished one, printed from the site of A. Korfiati.

We narrow the front and back halves by 1.5 cm. We draw new lines of the side seams, retreating 10 cm down from the hip line. We outline the length of the cut for 1/3 of the length of the skirt.

For this model we will need:

• lace 1.2 m wide - about 0.8 m;
• lining fabric 145 cm wide - 0.7 m;
• zipper 20 cm long;
• threads.

cutting

A transparent lace skirt is cut out from:

• back panel - 2 children;

The petticoat is cut out from:

• front panel - 1 child. with a fold;
• back panel - 2 children;
• belt - children. And 8 cm wide, OT + 4 cm long for the clasp.

Description

We lay out the lace details on front side details of the petticoat, we sweep in pairs around the perimeter. Further, the transparent skirt is sewn as a single layer.

On both halves, we sweep and grind the tucks. We sew a zipper. We bast and grind the seams on the sides. We process the allowances with an oblique inlay.

We strengthen the belt with thermal fabric, cut without seam allowances. We sew a belt at the waist.

Black lace pencil skirt is ready!

Leather pencil skirt

A skirt made of leatherette or leather looks great on any type of figure. The main thing is to decide which style and length of the leather pencil skirt suits you. For big women 56th or 58th sizes should not be sewn short skirt. For them better fit long pencil skirt with a slit.

It should be noted that this type of material is well suited for business style. A tailored jacket or jacket will accentuate your look. Long skirt from eco-leather it will be interesting to look with a fur sleeveless jacket and leather boots.

Consider step by step how to sew a leather skirt with an elastic band.

Comment

Please note that not every sewing machine can work with leather. If you have a thin skirt made of eco-leather or leatherette, the sewing process will be simplified. But, if the main material is thick leather, then you will need to sew some seams with an awl.

Measurements on which the pattern is built: CI=45 cm, FROM=67 cm;

We will need:

• leather (eco-leather) - 0.5 m;
• lining fabric - 0.5 m;
• wide elastic band (4 cm) for the belt - 0.7 m;
• hidden zipper;
• sewing machine, scissors, leather needles, chalk.

Description

We build a pattern of a straight skirt.

We mark all the elements on the main material and on the lining. Cut out, leaving allowances of 1.0 - 1.5 cm.

We sweep away the details of the skirt and lining (separately), leaving the seam on the back not stitched.

We sew all the seams, except for the middle one on the back.

We iron the seam allowances in different directions through a cotton fabric or (for rough skin) we tap with a hammer.

We sweep and then stitch the skin and lining along the bottom of the skirt.

Sew a zipper into the center seam on the back. We carry out the central seam of the back.

We sew a belt from a wide elastic band.

Eco-leather skirt is ready!

Skirts will always be relevant, at any time and in every season. A well-chosen skirt adds attractiveness to its owner, creates style, emphasizes the dignity of the figure and creates a unique image. More often, skirts are worn in the warm season.

Tulip skirt.

Tulip skirt in your own way appearance similar to beautiful spring flower- a tulip. The cup of such a skirt elegantly covers its stalk - graceful female hips and waist, slender legs.
Building a Tulip Skirt Pattern

is divided into several stages:

1. Specify the length of the item.

As you noticed, such models of skirts are not long, since the effect disappears with increased length. Therefore, I advise you to make a skirt above the knees by 5-10 centimeters.

1. Tapered model to the bottom.

What for? This is necessary in order for the effect to be the most vivid. On a simple straight skirt, this will be hardly noticeable, and on a narrower model, such folds at the waist will be much “brighter”.

It is an integral part of any skirt. Without it, nowhere. In the photo it is quite wide, so we take about 4.5 cm. How to build it? Watch the video.

Tulip effect.

Build like an undercut, only the base of the undercut lies on the line of the bottom of the skirt. Due to this, the skirt is transformed into a bud. If you want, you can make several folds. At the same time, you can divide the waist line and the bottom line with the “division” tool (in point mode).

Perhaps the basis for the skirt pattern was such a pattern of a barrel skirt:

“I cut it according to this scheme, take the usual straight skirt in your size as a basis.

How to weave a belt for a four-stripe skirt.

First 4 steps:

Pockets. A tulip skirt pattern with pockets is built in the same way, but an entrance is built on the side seams - for welt pockets.

Such a model can be made in both business and casual style, depending on the fabric used for sewing. brown skirt Tulip skirt with a high waist.

Peculiarity next skirt in that it visually makes the waist thinner, giving the silhouette the coveted hourglass shape. Both the classic length - to the knee, and the mini - are ideally combined with this model and make the woman very sexy. In order to put even more emphasis on the waist, designers make it lines in a contrasting color, or complement it with a lush bow, a sophisticated belt.

Designs of skirts with drapery are built on the drawing of the basis of a straight skirt. In this case, the tucks turn into drapery. The type of drapery depends on the structure of the fabric. So, silk and wool give volumetric soft drapery, knitwear - flexible, plastic. Drapery from these fabrics easily fits along the oblique and transverse threads. Rigid light fabrics are draped only along the oblique thread, forming clear radial folds.

Skirt with drapery along the darts.

Three small, unpressed folds emerge from a slanted, slightly curved dart to create a draped effect.
On the pattern of the front panel of the skirt, the lines of the direction of the folds-draperies are applied (Fig. 2). The pattern is cut along the marked lines and bred to the desired size. The distance between the folds should not be the same: between the first and second it is about 3.5-4 cm, and with each subsequent one it decreases by 0.5 cm compared to the previous one (Fig. 3).

Skirt with asymmetrical draping at the front.

With asymmetrical drapery, the pattern of the front panel of the skirt is built in full size. The draping can be positioned from the waist line to the hip line and below. If it passes below the hip line, then for greater elegance, the skirt is narrowed down along the side seams by 2-3 cm on each side. On the pattern, an undercut line is marked along which the draping folds will be located (Fig. 2). It is undesirable to place them at the extreme points of the lodrez line, it is necessary to step back 2-3 cm. Libya is drawn from the undercut line to the side seam, which determine the direction of the folds.
First, cut the pattern of the front panel of the skirt along the undercut line (Fig. 3) and close the tuck on its left side, and then along the marked drapery lines. The width of the folds is from 3.5 to 4.5 cm.
The back panel of the skirt is left unchanged.

Skirt with pocket, asymmetrical drape and slant closure

Skirt pattern:

Draped wrap skirt

Fluffy chiffon skirt with a yoke. Pattern.