The pattern-base of trousers is basic pattern. It can be used to model various styles- more close-fitting or more voluminous, classic or in the direction of fashion, sports, cropped and even shorts.

To build a pattern of trousers, we will need measurements and increases:

Measurements:

St = 36 cm
Sat = 48 cm
Dtk = 57 cm
dB = 100 cm
W = 16 cm
Shk = 22 cm
Sun = 23 cm

To facilitate your task, you can use the calculator table for an accurate calculation of the structure or a ready-made parametric pattern. Press a plus to open the tab and learn more. ↓

Ready solution:

Table-calculator for calculating patterns-bases women's trousers

You enter your measurements, and the program automatically calculates all the formulas. You do not have to count in your head or on a calculator and be afraid to make a mistake in the calculation.

290 rub

Construction of the front half of the trousers

We draw a vertical line with a vertex at point T0.

1. Pants length:
From the point T0 down, lay off a segment equal to the length of the trousers and set the point H0.
T0H0 \u003d dB \u003d 100 cm.

2. Seat height:
We mark from the point T0 down the height of the seat equal to 1/2 of the half-girth of the hips - 1 cm and set the point R1.
T0Ya1 \u003d 0.5 × Sat - 1 cm \u003d 0.5 × 48 - 1 \u003d 23 cm.

You can simply set aside the height of the seat according to the measure of Sun.

3. The position of the hip line:
From the point R1 upwards, set aside 1/3 of the segment T0R1 and set the point B1.
R1B1 \u003d 23 ÷ 3 ≈ 7.7 cm.

4. The position of the line of the knees:
We postpone the measure Dtk from the point T0 down and get the point K0.
T0K0 \u003d Dtk \u003d 57 cm.

Draw horizontal lines from points T0, B1, R1, K0, H0 to the right. Thus, we got the waist line, the hip line, the step line, the knee line and the bottom line of the front half of the trousers.

5. The width of the front half of the trousers along the hips:
From point B1 to the right, we measure a segment equal to half the measurement of Sb, set point B2.
B1B2 \u003d 0.5Sb \u003d 0.5 × 48 \u003d 24 cm.

From point B2, draw up, to the intersection with the waist line and down, to the intersection with the step line, a vertical line. We get the intersection points of T2 and R2, respectively.

6. Step Width:
Set aside from the point R2 to the right a distance equal to 1/10 of the sum of the half-girth of the hips and the increase along the hip line and set the point R3.
R2R3 \u003d 0.1 (Sb + Pb) \u003d 0.1 × (48 + 2) \u003d 5 cm.

7. Position of the fold line of trousers:
From the point R1 to the right, we set aside a segment equal to half the width along the step line and set the point I.
R1R \u003d (B1B2 + R2R3) ÷ 2 \u003d (24 + 5) ÷ 2 \u003d 14.5 cm. R1R \u003d RH3.

We draw a vertical line through point I and at its intersection with the waist line we put point T, with the hip line - point B, with the knee line - point K, with the bottom line - point H.

8. The amount of expansion along the hips:
From point B2 to the right we set aside 0.5-0.7 cm, we get point B21.
B2B21 = 0.5 cm.

9. Auxiliary point C:
From the point R2 we set aside the bisector of the angle, equal to 0.4 of the segment R1B1.
R2C \u003d 0.4R1B1 \u003d 3.1 cm.

Through points T2, B21, C, R3 we draw a bow line with a marker.

10. The width of the front half of the trousers at the bottom:
From the point H to the left and right, we set aside the segments HH1 \u003d HH2 \u003d (Shn - 2) ÷ 2 \u003d 7 cm, where Sn is the width of the pants below in finished form.
H1H2 \u003d Shn - 2 \u003d 16 - 2cm \u003d 14 cm.

11. Pants width at the knee line:
From point K to the left and right, we set aside the segments KK1 \u003d KK2 \u003d (Shk - 2) ÷ 2 \u003d 10 cm, where Wk is the width of the trousers at the knee level in the finished form.
K1K2 \u003d Shk - 2 \u003d 20 cm.

12. Auxiliary point R31:
From the point R3 to the left, we set aside the segment R3R31 = R2R3/3.
R3R31 \u003d 5 ÷ 3 ≈ 1.7 cm.

Now we connect the point K2 with the point R31 and draw a step cut with a marker with beautiful smooth lines, connecting the points H2K2R3.

13. The width of the trousers along the waist line:
From the point T2 to the left, set aside 1/2 of the sum of the half-circumference of the waist and the increase along the waistline and add the amount of the tuck (or fold) to this amount. The tuck solution can be 2-2.5 cm, and the folds 3-5 cm (according to your desire or according to the model). Dart length = 8-10 cm.
T2T4 \u003d 0.5 (St + Fri) + tuck \u003d 0.5 × (36 + 1) + 2 \u003d 20.5 cm.

14. Side Cut Extension:
We connect point B1 with point T4 and continue this segment by the amount of extension of the side cut, set point T41.
T4T41 = 1-1.5 cm.

We take a marker and make out the side seam of the trousers with a smooth convex line at the level of the hips and a smooth concave line at the level of the knee through the points T41, B1, K1, H1. At the level of the waist line, we connect the points T2 and T41, not forgetting to draw a tuck on the fold line of the trousers.

15. Mid-Bottom Raise:
From the point H upwards, we retreat 0.5-1 cm and put the point H5. Through the points H1H5H2 we draw a beautiful bottom line of the front half of the trousers.

Construction of the back half of the trousers

16. The width of the back half of the trousers at the bottom:
We postpone from the point H to the right and to the left the segments HH3 \u003d HH4 \u003d (Shn + 2) ÷ 2 \u003d 9 cm.
H3H4 \u003d Shn + 2 \u003d 16 + 2cm \u003d 18 cm.

17. The width of the back half of the trousers at the level of the knees:
We postpone from the point K to the right and to the left the segments KK3 \u003d KK4 \u003d (Shk + 2) ÷ 2 \u003d 12 cm.
K3K4 \u003d Shk + 2 \u003d 22 + 2cm \u003d 24 cm.

18. The position of the side edge of the back half of the trousers on the hip line:
We continue the line of the hips to the left at a distance equal to 0.1 × (Sb + Pb) - 2 cm and put point B3.
B1B3 \u003d 0.1 × (Sb + Pb) - 2 cm \u003d 0.1 × (48 + 2) - 2 \u003d 3 cm.

19. The width of the back half of the trousers along the hips:
From point B3 to the right, set aside a distance equal to the sum (Sb + Pb) minus the width of the front half of B1B21 and set point B4.
B3B4 \u003d (Sb + Pb) - B1B21 \u003d (48 +2) - (24 + 0.5) \u003d 25.5 cm.

20. Auxiliary point R21:
To determine the position of the middle cut of the back half of the trousers, we find the auxiliary point R21. R2R21 = 1 cm to the left.

21. Pants Balance:
We connect point J21 with point B4, and continue this line upwards, postponing the balance of trousers B4B5.
B4B5 \u003d 0.05 (Sat + Sun) - 0.5 \u003d 0.05 (48 +23) -0.5 \u003d 3.1 cm.
Line B3B5 is the line of the hips of the back half of the trousers.
Line Ya21B5 is the line of the middle seam of the back half of the trousers. Let's continue it up and set aside the segment B5T5 equal to the segment B2T2.

22. The width of the back half of the trousers along the waist line:
Set aside from point T5 to the intersection with the horizontal from point T0 a value equal to 0.5 (St + Pt) + tuck solution and set point T7.
T5T7 \u003d 0.5 (St + Fri) + 2.5 \u003d 0.5 × (36 + 1) + 2.5 \u003d 21 cm.

The tuck is located perpendicular to the T5T71 line, in its middle. Dart solution 2-3 cm. Dart length 10-14 cm. If 2 darts are planned, they are placed at a distance of 2 cm from the ends of the back pocket. Then the length of the darts reaches the level of the pocket.

We connect the points K3, B3 and T7, continuing this line a little up and put the point T71. Let's compare the lines of the side seams of the front and back halves (K1B1T41 = K3B3T71) and correct the position of point T71.

Let's decorate the side seam of the back half of the trousers, smoothly connecting the points H3K3B3T71.
Let's draw the waist line of the back half of the trousers through the points T5T71, drawing a tuck.

23. Auxiliary point R32:
Auxiliary point R32 is located on the line R3K2.
R3R32 = 1 cm down.

24. Auxiliary point D:
Auxiliary point D serves to decorate the middle seam of the back half of the trousers.
R21D \u003d 2 - 3 cm (angle bisector). I21D = 2.5 cm.

25. Step Width:
We set the width of the step of the back half horizontally to the right of the point R21, set the point R5.
R21R5 \u003d 0.25 (Sb + Pb) - 1.5 \u003d 0.25 × (48 + 2) - 1.5 \u003d 11 cm.
Points R5 and K4 are connected by a straight line.

The deflection of the step seam of the back half in the middle of the segment Y5K4 is 1-1.5 cm. H4K4Ya7 \u003d H2K2Ya3 - 1 cm.

We make a step seam with smooth beautiful lines through the points H4K4Y7.
We draw the middle seam with smooth lines through the points T5B5DYA32Y7.

26. Descent of the middle of the bottom of the back half:
From the point H downwards along the vertical, we set aside the segment HH7 \u003d 0.5 -1 cm.
We draw the bottom line through the points H3H7H4.

Everything, the pattern of trousers is built. If you have any questions, ask in the comments to the article.

Hope my instructions were clear. The base pattern will come in handy more than once. We will use it in the simulation.

Good luck with your products!

© Olga Marizina

After constructing a pattern of women's or men's trousers, you can start sewing them.

To sew well-fitting trousers with your own hands, you must adhere to a certain sequence of work. In this article, we will look at the typical technology for sewing trousers.

In order to correctly cut the fabric, you need to familiarize yourself with some recommendations for cutting.

Cutting the details of the trousers

First of all, the fabric must be prepared for cutting before it starts, that is, if necessary (treated to prevent shrinkage).

Carefully consider the right side of the fabric: the direction of the grain thread, pile, pattern, etc. As a general rule, the warp threads on the fabric run in the direction of the edge of the fabric.

If the fabric for cutting has a pile coating (plush, velvet, velveteen) or the pattern of the fabric is directed in one direction, then all the main details are laid out in one direction.

On fabrics with a large pattern, the details of the pattern are laid out so as to preserve the pattern as much as possible or arrange it symmetrically.

On striped fabrics, the middle of all details should coincide with the middle of the central strip. On fabrics in a cage and a strip, the details of the pattern should be laid out so that the cells and stripes coincide at the points of their connections.

As a rule, the layout on the fabric begins with the main details, then additional ones are placed in the remaining gaps.

When laying out on fabric, do not forget to leave room for seam allowances.

Be sure to check that the direction of the grain thread on each part matches the direction of the grain thread on the fabric, fixing each piece with pins to prevent displacement during cutting.

Seam allowances:

• for hem hem 4-6 cm
• on the side and step seams 1-1.5 cm
• on the middle back seam 2-3 cm (if you need to expand the pants)
• along the line of the middle of the front on a one-piece facing for a zipper 3-4 cm
• the width of the remaining allowances 1 cm

1. Marking the position of pockets and darts;
2. WTO (wet heat treatment) of the front and back of the trousers;
3. Trying on trousers;
4. Processing pockets and darts on the front and back of the trousers;
5. Zipper processing;
6. Stitching side and step sections of trousers;
7. Stitching the middle sections of trousers;
8. Harness preparation;
9. Processing the upper cut of the trousers with a belt;
10. Processing the bottom of the trousers;
11. Finishing product.

Stage 1. Pockets and Darts

It is recommended to mark the position of the pocket and darts on the front and back of the trousers before starting any processing. After wet-heat treatment, this will be difficult to do, since the parts will acquire a given volume.

After marking the pocket and waist tuck lines on one part, it must be transferred to a paired part. Then lay straight stitches manually along the marked lines so that the marking lines are preserved during processing.

See pocket options.

Stage 2. Wet-heat treatment of trousers (WTO)

Under wet heat treatment understand the pulling and shrinking of individual sections of the trousers to give them a shape corresponding to the contours of the body.

For tight trousers, the WTO is needed to a greater extent than for loose-fitting trousers. Striped and plaid fabrics are better not to be subjected to WTO, as suturing and pulling the fabric will disrupt the pattern.

WTO can be omitted on wide or short trousers (it is enough to iron the arrow), as well as when using fabrics made of cotton, viscose or silk.

In trousers made of fabrics containing a large percentage of synthetic fibers, the WTO is not performed.

WTO front halves of trousers

1. Both front halves are folded right sides inward, aligning the control lines and ironing lines.

2. At the same time, stepping and side cuts at the level of the calf from the line of the knee down. The slack in the fabric formed in this area is sutured to the line of the arrow.

The bulge in the thigh area is slightly sutured only for stretchy fabric and steep hips. If the thigh is very convex, then in the step area along the line of the arrow, a guy is performed.

If the fabric is stretched and there is a wave along the bow line when cutting, then in this area you can make a suture using machine stitching.

4. Separate the front halves and fold each one along the ironing line with the wrong side inward and lightly iron along the fold.

The step and side cuts are aligned in the knee area so that there is no broken line. You can remove it with a light pull or correct it with scissors.

The ironing line is stretched under the knee, and the side and step cuts are stretched. After that, when it appears beautiful shape trousers, the ironing line is finally ironed.

5. Check the equality of the front halves by laying them on top of each other and aligning the control lines.

WTO back halves of trousers

1. The back halves of the trousers are folded together with the front sides inward, aligning the control lines and the ironing lines.

2. At the level of the knee, the side and step sections are pulled back, the resulting slack in the fabric is sutured to the line of the arrow.

At the level of the calf, the side and step sections are sutured, and along the line of the arrow, a guy is performed.

The seat line is pulled, while tightening the resulting slack in the area of ​​the subgluteal fold.

If a bulge has formed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe thigh line, then it is sutured or simply fixed with a machine stitch.

3. Both halves of the trousers are turned to the other side and all operations are repeated.

4. Each half is folded separately along the ironing line inside out, aligning the control lines.

A small pull is performed along the fold in the calf area, and the resulting or remaining slack in the area of ​​​​the seams is sutured.

The knee area is sutured along the arrow, and pulled along the seams.

They fit well in the region of the subgluteal fold.

5. Check the equality of the back halves of the trousers by laying them on top of each other, aligning the control lines.

After wet-heat treatment, the length of the step and side cuts of the front and back halves of the trousers is checked by superimposing them one on top of the other.

Stage 3. Trying on trousers

Sweep the details of the trousers along the marked lines, while controlling the alignment of all control marks.

Pants prepared for fitting are put on, the clasp is stabbed with pins. Inspect and, if necessary, clarify or correct:

• the width of the trousers along the waist, hips, knee, bottom.
• pants length and seat line depth
• correct position ironing lines
• the location of the darts and their depth
• pocket layout
• belt position

After trying on, unfold the trousers, if you want to complete the WTO of all halves separately, check their equality and finally iron the ironing line.

Stage 4 . Processing pockets and darts

Stitch the darts along the marked lines on the front and back halves of the trousers. First iron the seam allowances on the darts, then iron them to the middle cuts, tightening the slack at the ends of the darts.

Process pockets on the main details:,

Overcast all sections of the main details, except for the waist line.

Secure the waistline in each half of the trousers from stretching by laying a small line or gluing with a strip of interlining.

Prepare the bottom of the trousers for stitching the crotch and side seams. If the hem is a regular hem, then you can immediately glue the wrong side along the hem and its allowance, and if the hem with a cuff is glued, depending on the type of cuff.

Step 5. Processing the zipper

Stage 6. Stitching the side and step cuts

Put the front halves of the trousers on the back halves of the front sides.

Chip off the side and step cuts by aligning the lines of the thigh, step and knee.

Stitch the cuts from top to bottom, pulling the seam well.

Iron the seam allowances.

If the side seams of the trousers are finishing stitch, then the sections are ironed to the front halves and adjusted until the step seams are sewn.

Stage 7. Stitching the middle sections

Turn one half of the trousers inside out. Put the halves of the trousers into one another with the front sides.

Pin and stitch the back middle sections with two lines, laying the second line at a distance of 0.1 cm from the first, while pulling the seam.

Iron the seam allowances from the top to the step rounding.

Stage 8. Harvesting belt loops

The number of loops and their width depends on the model of trousers. On average, the width of the belt loop in finished form is 1 cm.

Take a strip of fabric 4 cm wide and iron the longitudinal sections to the middle with the wrong side inward. Next, fold the strip in half lengthwise inside out. grind longitudinal edges and topstitch the fold along the edge.

Cut the belt loop piece into six pieces.

Loops are located two on the front of the trousers (above the darts / between the pleats and above the side pockets) and one on the back (above the waist darts).

On the right side of the trousers, put the belt loops right sides down, pin and baste.

After sewing on the waistband, fold the upper sections of the belt loops inward and sew the folds onto the waistband of the trousers.

Stage 9. Processing the top cut of the trousers

Stage 10. Processing the bottom of the trousers

Iron the hem allowances to the wrong side, pin and sew by hand with loose stitches or lay a machine stitch.

Stage 11. Finishing the trousers

Remove traces of chalk, industrial waste from ready-made trousers, cut the ends of the threads.

Carry out the final WTO of the trousers using an iron.

WTO start from the top of the trousers: process the belt, fastener, darts, front and back pockets, middle seam. Then iron the bottom of the trousers, matching the crotch and side seams. Straighten the lines of the front and back folds of the trousers. Iron the bottom of the trousers.

To fix the form (for drying), the trousers should be hung on a hanger for 30-40 minutes.

The construction of a pattern for women's trousers is different from the pattern for men's trousers. And even for children's trousers, a different base construction is used. For example, the waist line of men's trousers is much lower than women's, the seat height, codpiece, etc. will be different.

The basis of the pattern of classic women's trousers, as well as the pattern of a straight skirt, can be used for modeling. Moreover, changes in the pattern for flared or tapered trousers can be made directly on the fabric, adjusting the width during fitting.
It is not difficult to make additions to this pattern in order to sew summer pants with elastic, pants with a yoke belt, build different types pockets and can even be used to sew a trouser skirt. This basic pattern may come in handy for sewing children's trousers for a boy or girl with your own hands.

Sometimes you have to build and try more than one pattern before the one appears, using which the trousers will fit perfectly on your figure. Then transfer such a pattern to thick cardboard or oilcloth (film) and use it later to build patterns for any models of women's trousers. This is especially important for obese women, since standard patterns from magazines can rarely take into account all the features of a full figure.
When constructing this pattern, I also focus on non-standard figures, but from practice I know that more or less ideally, the calculation formulas of the patterns are suitable for slender girls who do not have deviations from the figure and height, up to size 46 inclusive.

There are many methods for constructing patterns for women classic trousers, but they all require adjustment during the first fitting. Don't expect to find the perfect finished pattern exactly to your figure, so when using any pattern for the first time, leave large seam allowances.
And yet, when building the base of the trousers, you may find that some lines in this diagram do not match with your pattern. This is normal as you are using your own measurements. Moreover, I drew this scheme "by eye", not really worrying about the visual proportions of the picture.

To build a drawing of a pattern for women's trousers, you first need to build a grid, and to make it easier for you to navigate the drawing, the pattern is made in two stages.

So, draw a vertical line along the left side of a sheet of paper (preferably with millimeter markings) and mark the topmost and left point T. Set aside the measurement of the length of the trousers from it and put the point H.

Now you need to measure the height of the seat, as shown in the photo below, and put this segment on a vertical line, down from the T point. Usually this measurement is 24-25 cm for size 42-44 and 25-26 cm for size 46-48. But you can check it out with the instructions below. Dot I.
This is the point that needs to be clarified. The fact is that almost all the patterns that you find on the Internet offer a different pattern for constructing trousers. These calculations do not suit me, therefore, in the courses of cutting and sewing, I offer my students my own methodology.

So, about the point I. It is designated so because this line will correspond not to the hips, as is customary, but to the buttocks, the most protruding place female figure. And the line of the hips will pass a little higher, more precisely, a third of the distance of the YaB. It is calculated according to the formula: YB \u003d TY: 3. Calculate your value and put point B.

Now, from point B, set aside half the measurement of the half-girth of the hips (or a quarter of the volume of the hips) and set point B1. Draw a vertical line from it (up and down) and place points R1 and T1 at the intersections. Now the grid for the pattern of trousers has the main points from which we will look for others. And the first of them will be the point R2. Segment Y1Y2 \u003d POB: 10. Approx 4-6cm.

We will also find the line of the knees and denote it by the point K. To do this, you just need to divide the BN segment in half, into two equal parts.

How to accurately calculate the measurement "Seat Height" (Sun)

The measurement "Height of the seat of the trousers" is very important for the accurate construction of the pattern of women's trousers, so I also offer a photo of how you can remove it without formulas, in a practical way. Tie an elastic band around your waist, sit on a flat chair, and measure from the surface of the chair to the elastic band. Just be sure not to apply a centimeter to the body. The measure should reflect the distance in a straight line.

I also want to add that modern fashion pants is based on a tight fit on the hips, especially since almost all stretch fabrics make it easy to do. Do not make a mistake in the height of the seat, if the measurement is too large, then the codpiece of the trousers will "hang". And it will be impossible to fix this defect. But if, on the contrary, the codpiece will "crash", then it can be cut and lowered lower.

We continue to build a pattern of trousers

Now more complex calculations will begin, the drawing will have a lot of symbols and lines, so the diagrams and letters of the front and back will be made in different colors.
So, let's find the ironing line (arrows), it is on it that the tuck of the front half of the trousers will be located. To do this, you need to divide the segment RJ2 by ​​2 and put the point R0. All points with "zero" have a value of zero and are located in the middle of the front leg.

Lower a vertical line from it up and down and put points H0, K0 (knee line), T0 (waist).

Now you need to slightly lower the waistline from point T1. T1T2 = 1-1.5 cm, depending on the protrusion of the abdomen. With a protruding belly, the waistline drops lower (1.5 cm).
In addition, the new T2 point should immediately be shifted to the left by 0.5-1 cm, but only if the difference in measurements (full measurement) of the waist and hips is more than 20 cm. If the difference is smaller, it does not need to be shifted.

Well, now you need to calculate the offset side seam along the waistline to the right, which is indicated by the point T3. And at the same time, designate a tuck on the front half of women's trousers.
From the new position of the T2 point (if any), lay off the area calculated by the formula: (POT + Fri): 2 + 2-2.5 cm (tuck solution). Depth of tuck 10-12 cm. Draw the upper waist line of the front half of the trousers, just pay attention to how it is done on my pattern. You need to draw it also smoothly, and slightly bending down. In the tuck area, the line needs to be slightly raised up. If this area on the pattern is even, then when sewing the tuck, it will definitely become below the waistline.

Now let's draw a codpiece line, just draw it, because no formulas are needed. Take a pattern (a special tailor's tool) and "lay" it between the points B1Y2. Circle the pattern when it more or less correctly "lies" and as a result you can connect these points with an almost perfect concave line without any extra calculations. In any case, this area can be adjusted during fitting. If you don’t have one, draw by eye, focusing on my trouser pattern.
In the same way, we will connect the T3B points according to the pattern or by hand.

We pass to the line of the bottom of the pattern of women's trousers. Everything is very simple here. H0H1 \u003d H0H2 according to the formula: (bottom width) WN: 2 - 1 cm.
If the width of the trousers at the knee is known, then we calculate using the same formula, only for measuring the knee. We connect points B, H1 with a straight line. At the intersection with the knee, we put the point K1, followed by K2. K1K0=K0K2.

Well, the last stage of building a pattern for the front half of women's trousers. We need to draw lines YAK1 and Y2K2. First, connect them with straight lines, and then step back in the center of each of them 0.5-1 cm and draw their smooth contours.

To mark the lines of the pattern of the back half of the trousers, I used Blue colour. The points are plotted in red on the drawing.

Let's first put point B2, according to the formula: BB2 \u003d (PB: 10) - 1.5 cm.
Next, mark the points K3 and K4 using the following calculation: K1K3=K2K4=2cm. Similarly, for points of the width of the bottom: H1H3=H2H4=2cm.
We connect the points H3 and K3, then K3 and B2 with straight lines. At the same time, from point K3, through point B2, continue a straight line upwards (above the waist). And pay attention, the new point T4 is just above the waist line. This is determined after when you measure the segment BT3 and set aside this distance from point B2 to point T4. BT3=B2T4. It is necessary, so to speak, to equalize these sections, one of which is straight, the other is concave. If you do this approximately, then when sewing both halves of the trousers, this will definitely "come out" in excess.

Let's now turn our attention to the line of the hips and build the key point B3 according to the formula: B2B3 \u003d (FB + Pb): 2.
Then, from the obtained point B3, you need to draw a perpendicular line 3-5 cm long (depending on the shape of the buttocks) and put point B4. Connect Ya1B4 and continue this line up along the ruler.

From T4, from the previously constructed line (K3T4), we restore the perpendicular to the right. As a result of the intersection of the two lines, the point T5 was obtained. From the new point to the left, set aside the segment T5T6 = (POT + Fri): 2 + 3-3.5 cm (tuck solution).

Now we need to build a tuck for the back half of the trousers. Divide the segment T6T5 in half, draw a perpendicular line from it, 12-14 cm long and set aside a tuck solution on both sides of it (3-3.5): 2.
Next, outline the outline of the top cut, taking into account the smooth bend and rise of the line to the edges of the tuck, as shown in the drawing of my trousers pattern.

Now let's move on to the knee line. As already noted, K2K4 \u003d H2H4 \u003d 2cm. Therefore, connect the points H4K4 and K4Y3 with a straight line. Next, in the middle of the K4Ya3 segment, put a point and step back from it inside the drawing by 1.5-2 cm and mark it.

That's actually all, the construction of the trousers pattern is almost complete, it remains only to find the point R3 using the formula: R1R3 \u003d (POB: 10) + 3cm. Then, in the middle of the Y3K4 segment, set aside 1.2-2 cm inward. Connect the obtained points with a smooth line. Immediately draw the outline of the line of the K3B2 section (on the other side) in approximately the same way, only 1-1.5 cm must be retreated inward.

A little below the point R3, you need to put the point R4. But in order to determine its position, it is necessary to equalize the resulting segments K2R2 and K4R3 and reflect the resulting difference with a new point R4. We will need it for the image on the pattern of trousers of the last contour - the seam of the seat. The figure shows schematically how to do this using a pattern.

Not every woman can boast of ideal body shapes. Therefore, not all purchased clothes “sit” well on the figure. Every beginner seamstress will be able to afford jeans or shorts with a good fit, ideally suited to the type of her figure. This construction details the complete process of constructing and sewing women's trousers. Building patterns is not too difficult a process, it is enough to correctly understand and learn how to cut things with your own hands.

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Step-by-step construction of women's trousers for beginners

Material for work

Taking measurements from a figure (abbreviations in the text)

• St - half-circumference of the waist. The waist circumference is measured with a measuring tape and divided by 2.
• Sat - half-girth of the thigh + 1 cm.
• Vk - height from waist to knee.
• Dp - front length.
• dB - length on the side + 1.5 cm.
• Ds - back length + 2 cm.
• Sun - seat height = (Sat: 2 + 1 cm).
• Sk - half-girth of the knee.

Building the front part

On the left side, draw a right angle with the apex in t. T. TN - the length of the product along the front.

TS - seat height.

ShB - 1/3 of the measurement Sun.

TC - knee line.

From all points draw horizontal lines to the right. Step width WSH1 = Sat: 2 + 5 cm.

Ш2 = ШШ1/2. From t. Ш2 down and up, draw a vertical line.

T2K2H2 is an arrow line or shared thread.

Front cut outline. From t. Sh1 to the left, measure 1/10 (Sat + 1) = t. Sh3.

From point Ш3, draw a vertical line at the intersection with a segment of the waist and put t. T1. Make a withdrawal of the middle horizontal 1 cm to the left.

The withdrawal to the left is not done when designing trousers, the pattern of which is drawn on a figure with a belly. On the bisector of the angle from the point Ш3, set aside 1/20 Sb \u003d t. Sh4.

Make an average cut by combining the points T10, B1, W4, W1 and extend the horizontal line to the right by 1 cm.

Construction of a pattern along the waist line. From t. T10 to the left, set aside St: 2 + 3 cm = T3. The size of one or two darts depends on the difference between the waist and hips. Connect the point T3 with t. B, extend the BT3 line upwards by the difference between the measurements in front and side = t. T30.

The width of the knee on the pattern is indicated by the section K2K3 \u003d K2K4 \u003d Sk: 2 + 2 cm.

From points K3K4 draw vertical segments to the bottom of the pattern. Connect the side cut with a smooth convex line to the step line, from t. W to t. K3, the contour can be convex or slightly concave. The segment from point K32 to the bottom line is always drawn in a straight line.

Step seam: t. Sh1 is connected to point K4 with a straight vertical line. Divide this segment in half and measure 0.2 cm at the division point to the left, draw a step seam with a concave line to unite points 1, 0.2, K4. The K4H4 gap is connected by a straight line.

The tuck at the waist is located in the direction of the shared thread in the arrow itself or can be laid with a pinch from t. T2 to the left, it can be located towards the side line no closer than 7 centimeters.

Rear detail drawing

From t. Sh3 to the left, measure 1 cm = t. Sh30

t. T9 \u003d segment T1T2 / 2.

Ш30Т9 connect with a straight line and extend it up.

T9T11 \u003d 1/10 Sat - 1.5 cm.

From B2 upwards measure the resulting value = B3.

B3B connect together and continue the horizontal to the right (the line of the hips of the back pattern of the trousers).

Hip width \u003d (Sat + 1 cm) - B1B \u003d B4.

Waist T11T12 \u003d St / 2 + solution of one or two darts.

Segment B4T13 = BT30 (notches are made along the contour of the hips in points B4 and B).

The width along the knee line in the drawing is K2K30 = K2K40 (Sk / 2 + 4 cm).

Vertical lines are drawn from K30K40 to the bottom of the product. B4 is connected to t. K40 and a side cut of the back half is formed with a smooth convex contour between T13B4 at the level of t. Sh.

The segment B4K is drawn in a slightly concave line, and K30N30 are connected in a straight line.

The middle contour of the back pattern of trousers. Set aside 0.2 from t. Sh3 to the right (Sat + P).

On the bisector of the angle with W3, set aside 1/20 Sat - 2.6.

Make a cut of the back part, connecting points T11, B2, B3, SB, 1, SH7 in a straight line.

Connect Sh7 with K40, making a step cut. Segment Ш7К40 / 2, and at the point of division to the left, measure 0.8–1 cm. Draw a cut with a concave line, combining t. Ш7, 0.8, К40

Section K40N40 is a straight segment.

The bottom of the product passes through the points HH1. For classic trousers, the front half is drawn up according to paragraphs H3, H6, H4, H2H6 = 0.8–1 cm.

The bottom of the rear part is determined by points H30, H5, H40, H2H5 = 1.5–2 cm.

The allowance on the bottom of the trousers is not more than 4 cm.

The position of the tuck of the back pattern of trousers at the waist. T11T13 / 2, put T14 in the division. From t. T14 at an angle of 90 degrees to the waist, draw a strip down, the tuck solution is three centimeters. Its length is approximately 11 cm, depending on the shape of the buttocks. Make a tuck by connecting points T15, T11, T16.

It is better to cut all tucks on paper in half size. A notch is placed on the middle line (on), the middle and side lines are outlined on the fabric.

The control mark on the fabric is placed along the knee line (the depth of the cut is 0.5 cm).

Allowances:

On the sides - 1.5 cm.

By crotch seams- 2 cm.

Waist - 1 cm.

Bottom - 4–6 cm.

A wedge of the back of the trousers is allowed, which is cut off along the shared thread.

Cutting details

After building a pattern of trousers, the patterns of both halves are cut out. Tracing paper is applied to the drawing and the contour of one of the halves of the product is outlined. It can be either front or back. It is better to translate the narrow part of your pattern onto tracing paper, since it is smaller in volume than the back. Then a pattern is cut out of tracing paper.

Before sewing the product, the material must be washed so that it shrinks.. The fabric is then folded front side down the thread. If the material is very wrinkled, it must be ironed with steam.

Patterns are applied to the material, leaving room for allowances on each side. The pattern is fastened with safety pins around the entire perimeter of the fabric. Details are grinded, allowances are added and cut out. In order for the trouser belt to be rigid, you need to cut out a piece of interlining and glue it to the wrong side with an iron.

Tailoring

The first step is to sweep the details and try on. If the product sits perfectly on the figure, you can sew the halves of the trousers. First, tucks are processed on both patterns. Then the middle front and back halves are sewn (if a zipper is provided, sew a zipper), side and step sections. Allowances are processed with an overlock, a belt and belt loops are sewn on. Ready product ironed with a steam iron.

Note

On the basis of the presented drawing, the remaining styles of women's trousers are designed. It can be shorts, breeches, tight or voluminous trousers, jeans.

If you want to sew your own trousers, but you have little experience, take our advice - sew trousers with an elastic band! Firstly, sewing such a model is very simple, you do not have to sew and. And secondly, trousers with elastic, sewn according to our pattern, are in no way inferior to the classic women's style - because they have the same narrow cut and even have side pockets!

This pattern is modeled after

ADVICE! If you sew all the time, build patterns for trousers, dresses, blouses, jackets and model countless styles of clothes from them. In order not to cut the basic patterns, re-shoot them on tracing paper with each new modeling.

Pattern of women's trousers with an elastic band

Modeling the front half

On the front pattern, continue the line of the hips and the line of the waist to the left. Set aside on lines of 2 cm. Draw a new line of hips along the pattern.

Set aside 3 cm from the waist line upwards as shown in fig. 1 - trouser belt. In addition, draw a hem of the belt with a width of 3 cm.

From the waistline, lay down the side 14 cm - the entrance to the pocket. Model a pocket burlap (green outline) and a pocket burlap one-piece with a barrel (highlighted in gray) as shown in Fig. 1. Pocket burlap and pocket burlap, one-piece with a barrel, reshoot separately on tracing paper. Cut off the barrel from the front pattern (not used when cutting).

Rice. 1. Pattern of trousers with an elastic band: front half

Modeling the back half

The pattern of the back of trousers with an elastic band is modeled similarly to the pattern of the front. Set aside 2 cm on the side of the hip and waist line. Draw a new side line. Up from waistline build one-piece belt 3 cm wide and hem the belt - 3 cm wide.

Rice. 2. Pattern of trousers with an elastic band: back half

How to cut elastic pants

From the main fabric cut out:

1. Front half - 2 parts
2. Barrel, one-piece with burlap - 2 parts
3. Back half - 2 parts

From the lining fabric, cut out:

Pocket burlap - 2 parts

How to sew trousers with an elastic band

On the front halves, make side pockets with an undercut barrel.

Sweep and stitch the side and inner seams on the legs of the trousers at the same time sewing the belt and the hem of the belt along the short sides.

Baste and stitch the middle seam while sewing the waistband and waistband hem.

Process the hem of the belt along the upper cut, along with the pocket and burlap.

Tuck the hem of the waistband and stitch along the waist line, leaving an open area for threading the elastic. Insert an elastic band 2.5 cm wide, sew up the open area.

We also invite you to watch a video tutorial on processing a stitched belt with an elastic band: