Hello dear craftswomen!
Let's talk about tucks, more precisely about such modeling techniques as transferring a tuck. Firstly, what is a tuck and why is it needed. The figure of a person is three-dimensional, has some roundness, trying to fit a piece of fabric to it in order to create a robe, we see that the fabric does not lie flat, bending around the bulges on the body. So, tucks give us the opportunity to make smooth transition from a bottleneck to a place with volume. A tuck is an excess of fabric, which is built up, giving the necessary shape to the product.

The main tuck is a chest tuck, it serves to round the roundness of the chest, it is located on the shelf of the base pattern from the shoulder seam down to the center of the chest. In products, the chest tuck can originate from any seam of the shelf (this is achieved with the help of constructive modeling and is called the translation of the tuck), but its end is always directed to the bulge of the chest. Of course, there are accepted canons for the location of tucks - from the shoulder seam, from the side, from the armhole, from the waist - these are the main positions of the tuck on the chest, but besides this, each designer tries to find a new, in his opinion, the most successful location of the tuck, concludes it in relief, or undercut. In addition to the chest, there are also other darts, shoulder darts, to give roundness to the back of the product in the area of ​​​​the shoulder and shoulder blades, waist darts - they remove excess fabric in the waist area and create a smooth transition to the hips. It is important to remember that it is better to break a too large tuck solution into two, that is, into two tucks, this will help distribute the fabric more evenly and make it possible to properly iron the resulting slack at the end of the tuck. Therefore, if you have any doubts about the size of the solution, it is better to use this technique.

Darts, can also be re-arranged in embossed seams, which have the same constructive function, go around the figure, repeating all the bends, but also give an aesthetic look to the product. Reliefs can also be simply decorative. Today we will look at ways to transfer the tuck, and analyze the most interesting cases using examples of dress models. contemporary designers. Having mastered the technique of transferring tucks, designing them in relief, you will be able to create your favorite clothing models yourself. It's not difficult at all! So let's get started.

For modeling, we need a pattern - the basis of an adjacent or semi-adjacent silhouette. You can take it on our website. To do this, go to the main page of the site, select "basic dress pattern" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern and, after paying for the service, you will be able to print it on an A4 printer and glue the sheets to get base patterns in life size. Instructions on how to do this are on the pattern generation page.

As already mentioned, the tuck on the bulge of the chest can be placed to any seam of the shelf, the only condition is that its top always points to the highest point of the chest. (Important! The end of the tuck is located 2 cm short of the center of the chest! That is, we finish the stitching of the tuck, reducing it to nothing, 2 cm earlier). The figure shows examples of the translation of the tuck.

The method of modeling reliefs is extremely simple, and the main condition is the same - all relief lines pass through the center, the most convex part of the figure. (or close to it). For modeling, we need the same pattern-base. Further, the algorithm is as follows: on the detail of the pattern - the base, in this case we took the detail of the shelf, apply the model lines of the reliefs, making sure that the lines pass through its top. We cut along the lines obtained, and combining the parts of the pattern we get the required details.

Let's take a closer look at modeling chest tuck. For example, take the translation of the tuck into the side seam. This location of the tuck is the most inconspicuous in clothing. In this example, the waist tuck is also transferred to the side seam, but you should be aware that when big size chest, this option is unacceptable, because. the solution will be too large.

In Victoria Begham's dress, the tuck on the bulge of the chest has been transferred to the side seam and framed in relief. Modeling takes place on a pattern - the basis of the adjacent silhouette. Modeling step 1 - draw a relief line passing through the center of the chest, make an incision from the top of the waist tuck to the top of the chest, close the tuck. Step 2 - cut off the side of the rail. Step 3 - we outline the decorative seam line according to the sketch (photo).

Consider the translation of the tuck into the neck line. On a Karen Millen dress, the chest tuck translated asymmetrically into the neck of the boat looks very impressive. Let's size the simulation. We will need a pattern shelf - the basis of a loose silhouette, a link, in a turn. For the convenience of modeling, we will close the chest tuck with its transfer down to the waist. Let's outline a new neck line and cut lines of the pattern, which coincide with the location of future folds (darts), remember that the ends of the cuts coincide with the tops of the darts (chest centers). Let's turn the details of the pattern so that the new tucks open into the neck. All! The resulting tucks can be processed as shown in the red dress with allowances for the face, or can be laid with soft folds.

In the Victoria Beckam FALL 2013 RTW - NYFW dress, the tuck has been moved to a cut barrel. How to do it? First, we outline the line of the barrel, transfer the solution of the tuck for fitting into the seam of attaching the barrel to the middle part of the bodice. The barrel part must be cut off from the pattern. Next, we make an incision from the seam of attaching the barrel to the top of the chest tuck and open its solution in this place by simply turning the parts.

In models of A - shaped silhouette, having tails on the bottom, the tuck is moved down. To achieve uniformity, the fold is not enough and it will be wrong to simply expand the product along the bottom due to the side seams. Therefore, the translation of the tucks down is used.

Let's take the pattern-base of the dress as a whole, together with the skirt, and making a cut from the bottom line up to the top of the tuck, we will open it, turning the details of the pattern and closing the previous location of the tuck. Additionally, you can add an extension along the side seams, but not more than 10 cm.

Consider the transfer of the tuck into the side seam and its design in relief. And again on the example of the Victoria Beckam dress. Step 1 - with the help of an incision, we will connect the tops of the waist and chest darts. Step 2 - open both solutions at the highest point of the neck, in place of the chest tuck. Let's outline the lines of the relief passing through the center of the chest, and the line of the decorative seam, based on the sketch. Step 3 - cut off along the relief line, close the tuck at the highest point of the neck, it will open in the relief line, outline the model lines of the neck and armholes.

Translating the bust tuck into a fantasy relief in an Elie Saab dress. We act similarly. First, we outline the line of the cutting barrel, we translate the chest tuck down to the waist. Next, we mark the line of the relief, according to the sketch, and cutting off along it, transfer the solution of the tuck into the line of attaching the barrel, attaching the formed piece to the middle part, see figure.

In the dress of Sarah Jessica Parker, the tuck is translated into relief from the shoulder. Everything is simple here - on the pattern-based shelf, we outline the line of the relief, cut and connect the parts, we get the central part of the shelf and the side. On the side, we outline the cut line, as shown in the figure, as a result, we have an imitation of a sundress and a top worn inside.

In a charming dress by American TV presenter Nicole Scherzinger, darts on the bodice are transferred to the middle seam. Modeling is carried out as follows, with the help of cuts going from the middle of the shelf to the tops of the chest and waist tucks, the solutions open in a new location, then it is necessary to cut out 2 details of the front of the dress with a seam in the center of the dress.

TRANSFER OF THE BREAST DRAW FROM THE SHOULDER SEAM TO THE SIDE SEAM

This is a very simple process - and it will take you no more than 2-3 minutes.

This is what our pattern looks like with darts on the shoulder seam.

If we leave this tuck here and close it, it will create the bulge necessary for our chest, BUT on our dress, a not very attractive seam will loom in the center of each shoulder. We do not need this, so we will transfer the tuck to a less tucked-in place - to the side seam.

We take a pencil and a ruler. On the pattern from the bottom edge of the armhole down we measure 5-7 cm - in this place we put a point.

Now we find the top of our chest tuck - here it is. And we draw a line connecting the top of the chest tuck with the point that we measured on the side line of the pattern.

We take scissors and make an incision along this line WITHOUT REACHING 2 CM to the top of the tuck.

Now we manually close the tuck on the shoulder and we automatically open a new tuck in the same place where we just made the incision. That's all - it remains only to seal the old tuck with tape (so that it does not open back).

So we got a new tuck on side seam under the armpit. As you can see in the photo below, this new tuck does its job wonderfully - that is, just like the old one, it creates a voluminous bulge for your chest.

And now you can continue to cut your dress, with full confidence that the new tuck will fit perfectly into the shape of your chest, and the bodice of your dress will fit you well.

Our lesson has come to an end. I hope it was informative and helped you deal with such a simple method of modeling clothes as translating a tuck. Good luck and creative mood!

It is known that the tucks are used to ensure that the modeled product "village" according to the figure. Note that tucks can take any position on the model, but the standards for their translation remain the same.

Video for the article

On the shoulder base, the darts can be directed from the shoulder, side seams, from the armhole or neckline, from the waistline or from the middle seam of the part. The main thing is to follow three rules:

1. The tuck solution must be preserved.
2. The top of the new tuck should be directed to the center of the bulge.
3. If a tuck is transferred to the location of another tuck, then the solutions of the tucks are summed up.

(one). We take the template of the shoulder base - it is the upper part of the constructed pattern of the base of the dress.

(2). It has a chest tuck - red lines, a tail tuck - Blue colour lines and the center of the bulge is a green circle.

(3). Let us dwell in more detail on the translation of the chest tuck into the line of the side.

We determine the location of the new tuck line on the template - the blue line. We make sure that the second rule for the translation of tucks is observed.

(four). We cut the template along this line, we get two parts.

(5). Part 2 remains motionless, part 1 is shifted, closing the chest tuck and at the same time opening the tuck in the side line.

(6). We outline a new contour and get a product with a tuck in the side seam.

(7). Similarly, you can translate the chest tuck into the neckline,

(eight). In the line of the armhole

(9). Using the method described earlier, you can remove all the tucks in the neck line. When translating, remember the rules for translating a tuck.

(ten). With further sewing, we can draw folds or gathers on the neck line, for this we will draw a new neck contour.

(eleven). We can also remove the traveling tucks to the side. To do this, we need to set aside the size of the tuck solution from the side line and draw a new side line.

Thus, on the shoulder basis, you can transfer tucks into any seam, the main thing is to follow the rules of translation.

Partial translation

Also, we can completely get rid of the chest tuck by partially transferring it to the neckline, shoulder line and armhole. It is only necessary to remember that such a pattern without a chest tuck is used when cutting a free-style product. Women with large OG always need tucks so that the thing does not look like a "bag".

First, we measure the solution of the tuck. Let's draw the cut lines to the neck line and the armhole line.

We reduce the solution of the chest tuck to 1.0 - 1.5 cm. On the neck line, we push the template along the cut line by 1.0 - 1.5 cm, transfer the entire remaining solution of the chest tuck into the armhole line.

(2). As a result, we get a new contour of the pattern.

Translation of darts based on trousers and skirts

Most often, in these products, if the silhouette is planned to be tight-fitting, it is not possible to completely get rid of the tucks. Darts are translated into shaped lines.

The exception is the jeans pattern. The cut of jeans is significantly different from ordinary trousers with a large fit, so some changes are made to the pattern of the base of the trousers. On the front half of the trousers, as a rule, there is a tuck, on jeans it should not be. To do this, we translate the tuck partially into the middle and side seams.

REMEMBER: if the tuck is transferred only to the middle seam, then a bubble will form at the end of the zipper. This is because the line of the middle seam is strongly deviated from the vertical. At the same time, if you remove the entire tuck in the side seam, then there is a strong narrowing along the side line. Therefore, the groove gap is divided in half (red and blue lines).

We've covered the basics translation of tucks. Their further modeling depends on the imagination, the main thing at the same time is to follow the rules for translating tucks.

One of the main structural elements women's clothing is a tuck, which is necessary to give the product the correct, i.e. desired shape. Mostly for the lungs. women's dresses, where the volume of the chest is formed exclusively due to chest darts. These darts can be moved on the bodice in any direction, in accordance with the style of the product. : to the middle of the front, to the waistline, to the side seam, to the armhole, to the neck, to the yoke, to reliefs, to drapery, to undercuts, etc. With the skillful use of this technique, one can develop great amount various models women's clothing.
The main thing- in whatever direction you move the tuck, its center should always be directed to the highest point of the chest. In our drawing, it is indicated by the point G7.
Before you start designing, you must copy the drawing of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper, or rather the part that you are going to change.

Let's start simple.

Moving the tuck to the sideline(in the side seam).
To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the dress base pattern onto a sheet of paper.

Rice. 2

We move the chest tuck on the base pattern closer to the armhole line by 3 cm and deepen it by 2 cm. To do this, from point B7, continuing the line of the shoulder, set aside 3 cm and set point 3.

Rice. 3

Draw a vertical line down from it, extending it 2 cm below the level of point G7 and set point 2.

Rice. four

Set aside 3 cm from point B9 along the shoulder line, we get point 31.

Rice. 5

Draw a straight line from point 2 through point 31. From point 2 as from the center through point 3 we draw an arc until it intersects with a straight line. We designate the intersection point as 32. We connect the points P5 and 32.

Fig.6

We divide the side line T4P into three equal parts. We designate the upper point of the division as 33 and connect it to point 2.

Rice. 7

We cut the shelf along the intended line and push it apart, while closing the chest tuck.

Rice. eight

The tuck along the waist line can be moved 3 - 4 cm towards the side line.
We adjust the shoulder seam with a straight line.

Rice. 9

Everything, you have a new style of the bodice of the dress.

Rice. ten

Important rule- there are no hard and fast rules! As with anything else, if you want to be successful, don't be afraid to experiment. Success is achieved by the one who goes beyond the generally accepted framework, the one who is not afraid to go beyond the conventions. We offer one of the many options as an example only to give you an idea of ​​​​the principles of modeling. So that you can use them in the future or, conversely, ignore and surprise yourself and your surroundings with a new masterpiece. Good luck!

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All people different figures, curves, and when tailoring clothes, tailors have to take into account volume parameters. To "pass" from a two-dimensional drawing to a real thing, tucks are used. They allow you to shape the curves and roundness of the figure, "fit" the fabric so that it repeats the shape of the body. Without darts, it will be possible to sew only things with a free, “flying” silhouette, clothes made of very elastic fabrics or basic, simplified products (sarafans, scarves, tops with elastic bands).

When creating tucks, the fabric is formed in the form of a fold, the excess is cut off and the line is built up. The result of the correct operation is a clear relief of the product, an even fit of the fabric, the absence of creases and distortions. The element is a kind of isosceles triangle or wedge, and its long sides must be equal to each other.

The transfer of darts is one of the most "problematic" stages of clothing design. Beginning craftsmen often have questions when modeling individual drawings. Basic patterns, which are taken as a basis, are standardized, and in order to create an original, exactly fitting figure of the model, one has to use the transferred structural elements. This is especially true for chest darts on a dress or bodice of a classic adjacent type. The master has to carefully think over their position so that the transition between narrow and voluminous parts of the body is smooth and organic.

Types of tucks

• Shoulder. They give rounded outlines to the back in the area up to the shoulder blades, on the front they are "responsible" for the beauty of the outlines of the chest.
• Waist. They help to remove excess material and smoothly shape the transition to the thigh.
• Chest. Needed to design roundness on the shelf from the shoulders to the center point of the chest.

Breast tuck - the main element in the design of the volume of the product. With its help, bulges are drawn up, the transition from bends to the bottom of the drawing. Its end must necessarily be directed to the center of the chest, while it can start from different points of the seams of the shelf. The choice of the starting mark is called the transfer of the tuck. In constructive modeling, there are "canonical" positions of the elements - along the shoulder and side seams, armhole, waist, as well as the accepted sequence of opening and closing after construction basic foundation. However, each master must independently make a choice for moving and find the best place for the formation of undercuts and reliefs.

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How can I make a translation

The transfer of the chest tuck is carried out by bringing it into the seams, repeating the outlines of the figure. At the same time, reliefs can be both constructive and simply decorative. There are typical translation options (for example, a tuck is often transferred from the shoulder to the armhole) and to master the technique, you should first “practice” on them. Having mastered the basic construction techniques, you can experiment, repeat interesting designer outfits and add original details to the basic drawings.

The choice of the method by which the transfer of the chest tuck is carried out depends on the style and other features of the product.

• In clothes with A-line silhouette and the folds of the element are often taken down, since the expansion due to the seam is not enough.
• The transfer of darts from the bodice to the middle seam is often used on dresses - cuts, starting from the center along the shelf, go to the points of the peaks on the chest and waist.
• A tuck from an armhole or shoulder is modeled by shaping the relief, cutting the pattern along it and connecting (to get the center and side of the shelf).
• The element can be taken into cutting barrels - outline their line, move the solution for fitting, cut off the part from the drawing and open the solution at the top of the tuck.
• To model a complex, fantasy relief, you need to outline its line and transfer the solution into the seam for attaching a cutting barrel.

To decorate the bulges of the bust, paper or fabric folded into a cone is used - the most protruding peak will become its tip, the width of the element is measured individually, according to the figure. To translate the real outlines into a flat pattern, you need to determine the center of the chest. draw all the necessary perpendiculars to the shoulder and find the end of the tuck.

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With all the variety of ways, the most simple and often used is the translation of the tuck into the side seam. The element will be invisible on finished version, and the relief - beautifully outlined, correct, exactly repeating the bend of the torso. The method is used to model bodices, dresses of different styles.

Beginning of work

Before transferring the tuck, you need to carefully take measurements to exclude deformations and distortions on the finished product.

Required measurements

• Semi-girths along the chest and above it - to determine the solution on the transferred element.
• The center of the chest is the mark between the peaks of the bust.
• The distance from the transition of the neck to the shoulder to the highest mark of the chest - it is required to correctly determine the position of the center.
• The location of the tuck along the armhole is the distance from the end of the element to the bottom point of the curve.

When determining the solution, you need to evaluate its value. If it is too large, it is advisable to divide the element on the pattern and make a couple of darts. So the fabric is evenly distributed on the pattern and the part can be ironed correctly. After measurements, you can get to work - changing the basic drawing of an adjacent or semi-adjacent type.

The translation of the chest tuck can be done horizontally or smoothly, with a slight angle - it depends on the model and figure. The end of the element is often located 1.5-2 centimeters from the center of the chest. By shortening the line, you can achieve a smooth fit of the bulges - there will be no sharp unaesthetic corners, and the desired volume will be completely preserved.

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Translation algorithm

On large format paper, apply a base rectangle, a drawing grid and model the main relief lines.

1. Determine the bottom mark on the armhole.
2. Set aside 3-5 cm from it downwards. The specific value is determined by the slope of the translated tuck.
3. Connect the end of the resulting segment to the center of the chest.
4. Make an incision on the side axis and close it on one side.
5. Close the gap by matching and gluing the sides.
6. Simultaneously with the closing of the chest tuck in the lateral line, open the incision at the desired depth.
7. Draw new segments down from the center of the chest by 2-4 cm, shortening the tuck so that its end on the finished item does not bulge.
8. After modeling the drawing, cut the bodice, bending in the middle of the front.

The top of the element during modeling can be lowered and raised so that it beats and aesthetically fits the forms.

How to transfer the chest tuck to the side seam with a large chest

With magnificent forms, it is impossible to simultaneously transfer the fitting element to the same line, since the solution is too large. Modeling clothes according to real figures, you can encounter other problems, but with due attention they can be solved.

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What difficulties may arise during the transfer

Among the most common problems faced by both beginners and experienced craftsmen are shoulder line deformity and its incorrect inclination. If the tuck is not opened correctly in the side seam, the outlines become not smooth, but rigid, a horizontal axis is formed. So that they do not “bounce”, it is necessary to carefully measure the slope along the shoulder, the distance from the center along the front to the extreme point of the shoulder joint and transfer it to the drawing.

If you move the chest element to the side, problems may arise due to the displacement of the center of the chest to the midline in front and below the armhole. In order not to run into difficulties, you need to follow a certain sequence of actions when transferring.

Progress

1. First determine the center of the chest in the drawing.
2. Then cut to this mark.
3. After cutting, close the element and reduce the length - the top should end to the left and lower than the center of the chest.

Transferring the chest darts from the armhole (this must be done in order to correctly close the element on the shoulder on the shelf), slightly lengthen the armhole. When making its outlines, you do not need to pay attention to the cuts - they then close in the side. If, after moving, the side relief line has shortened and no longer coincides with the length of the back, you need to check the parameters in the base drawing. With the correct lengthening of the side at the front with the help of darts, all parameters are aligned after the closing of the element.

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When do you need to deepen the armhole - before moving the incisions or after? This is chosen by the master himself - the main thing is that the control point in the center of the chest is preserved and all tucks are transferred to it. By correctly moving the elements, you will get a “sculptural”, beautifully fitting clothes and in the future you can quickly and easily change the model.

Hello my dear blog readers! Now we will look at several ways translation of the breast tuck, because for sure you will want to hide "from the eyes" this large tuck on the pattern-based dress. If you have not made yourself a base pattern yet, follow the link (waiting for you there step by step process pattern building - the basics for beginners).

Ways to translate the breast tuck will open before you an incredible variety of models. That is, it is you who can feel like a fashion designer and come up with a dress for yourself.

First, transfer to tracing paper that part of the pattern on which you will make the transfer of the tuck (front or back of the bodice).

Main rule:

• to achieve smooth lines, the tuck should not reach the center of the chest (in my drawing this is point G6) by 2 cm (if its ends point UP), and 3-4 cm (if its ends point DOWN). Then the fabric will not become a cone on the chest.

This is the most common way to translate a tuck. You choose for yourself - at what distance from the armhole will the tuck be located? It can lie horizontally, or it can be slightly lowered (from the bottom of the armhole on the side, set aside 3-6 cm, and connect this point with the point of the center of the chest).

The ends of the tuck look down, so from the center of the chest we shorten the tuck by 3-4 cm. Cut along this line, and close the tuck at the top.

Transfer of the chest tuck to the armhole line

Most often, to transfer to the line of the armhole, use the P6 point with base pattern drawing.

The ends of the tuck look up, so we shorten the length of the tuck by 2 cm.

Transfer of the chest tuck to the shoulder line

Select any point on the shoulder line for the new direction of the tuck. Shorten the undercut by 2 cm.

Thus, the tuck will also remain on the shoulder, only its direction will change slightly.

You can translate the tuck into two soft folds. (as in the picture below)

Translation of the chest tuck into the neck

We mark the line of translation to the side of the neck. We shorten the undercut by 2 cm.

Transfer of the chest tuck to the center line

Do not forget to shorten the length of the undercut by 3 cm. (the photo also shows the transfer of the tuck to the center)

Transfer of the chest tuck to the waistline

Draw the sides of the tuck taking into account the bulge of the chest. Lower the undercut angle by 3 cm.

Relief - another version of the chest tuck

The relief is a line that combines the chest and waist darts.

The relief can be from the shoulder line, from the armhole, from the neck, from the center.

In tight-fitting silhouettes (read about silhouettes and types of figures), the relief is located on the most convex points of the chest and shoulder blades.

Relief from the armhole

Relief from the armhole

Relief from the shoulder

Neck relief

First, we make the transfer of the chest tuck to the center. And then we close the center tuck, and it will open near the relief.

Front detail with a fold (how to cut out)

Remember, when building a drawing of the front of the pattern-base of the dress, we made a fit in the chest area (semi-skid). So: in order for us to be able to cut out the front of the bodice with a fold, we need to ensure that the front fold line is vertical and straight. A semi-skid creates curvature on the future fold line (see the drawing below, the place of the half-skid is marked in pink)

Therefore, in order to make the fold line straight, we shift the selected segment (in white in the figure below), forming a straight fold line in the center of the front piece. Thus, the chest tuck will increase slightly. The white sector will lie on the drawing with a slight overlap below the center line of the chest (as it should be).

All! Thus, a bodice detail with a fold in the center will be obtained, which is convenient when translating the chest tuck into a relief.

Interesting options for translating the chest tuck

I present to you various additional options translation of the chest tuck, maybe they will inspire you to create a BEAUTIFUL!

This is where I will end this long review of the translation of the chest tuck! I hope you can find the right option that inspires you! I wish you good luck, and sew with me! See you soon on the blog pages!