Details of clothing and their constructive varieties

Shoulder and waist products

Bow- a hidden fastener of trousers, consisting of a codpiece and a slope.

Board- left or right edge of the shelf outerwear(coat, raincoat, jacket, etc.), on which fastener loops or buttons are located.

Barrel- a cutting part of the front (shelves) and (or) back, covering the side surface of the body.

Strap- a detail of the product in the form of a ribbon, a strip of material to keep it on the shoulders (women's shirt, sundress, bra, etc.).

Hanger- a detail of a product made of materials, tape, a metal chain for hanging.

External pocket- a pocket located on the outer side of the main parts of the product (shelf, half of trousers, etc.). It can be front, rear, side, horizontal, vertical, inclined. The entrance to the pocket can be made out with a valve, facings, a leaflet, a zipper. It is an important element of the decorative design of the product.

Inner pocket- a pocket located on the inside of a coat or suit product (shelf, collar, lining, seam connecting the lining with the collar). The entrance to the pocket is most often fastened with a button and a loop.

Collar- a detail or assembly of a product for processing and designing a neckline. It can consist of an upper and lower collar, have a different design, stand height and the nature of the inflection line, degree of fit to the neck, edge configuration, end design, departure width, etc. By design, the collar can be set-in, one-piece, turn-down, stand-turn-down, passing into the hood, removable, with or without padding, etc.

Collar-apache- a kind of standing-turndown one-piece collar, an angle connecting with small lapels.

Golf collar — high collar, tightly fitting the neck, often with lapels.

Turn-down collar- collar, softly fitting the back of the neck, with the ends lying loosely on the chest. The departure line and the ends can have a variety of shapes (rounded, sharp, blunt, short, long, etc.).

Turn-down collar with stand(shirt) - turn-down collar, whose base is a stand.

Stand collar- collar in the form of a straight strip of material, tightly fitting the neck.

Shawl collar- a turn-down collar of a rounded shape, one-piece with sides, tightly covering the back of the neck and softly lying on the chest like a shawl.

Set-in sleeve- a kind of sleeve sewn into an oval armhole, having a clearly defined rim, differing in the width and depth of the armhole.

codpiece- upper part for processing the hidden fastener of the front part of the half of the trousers, designed for loops, buttons, zippers, textile fasteners. Sometimes this is called a hidden fastener in the front in a coat or raincoat.

Dwar clasp - a secret fastener for coats (coats, jackets, raincoats) at the same time on buttons and a zipper.

Double breasted closure- offset side fastener with buttons on both shelves of the product with a large entry of one shelf to the other than with a single-breasted fastener.

Dolevik- a piece of cushioning fabric to protect the pocket cut from stretching.

Clasp- a device for fastening, a necessary element of most types of clothing, allowing you to freely put on and take off clothes, create a certain volume. The clasp can also serve decorative trim. In swing clothes, it is usually located in the center of the front (central fastener), in asymmetric clothes - with a shift to the side (offset fastener). It can be single-breasted and double-breasted, through and hidden. In belt and shoulder clothing worn over the head, it can be located in front, side, back. A variety of fittings are used for fasteners (buttons, buttons, buckles, zippers, hooks and loops, textile fasteners - Velcro - Velcro, Burdock, etc.).

Hood- a stitched or removable item or a knot of outerwear that covers the head and is attached along the neckline.

Pocket- a part or assembly of a product for storing light objects and (or) decorative design. Pockets differ in location, direction, shape, design, size, finish. By location on the details of the product, pockets are divided into external and internal. By design, pockets can be welt, overhead, located in the seams, have a different direction of entry.

In-seam pocket- an external pocket - in the seams and relief of the shelves, in the seams of the connection of the yokes with the shelves, etc., or the inner pocket - in the seams of the connection of the lining with the bands.

Valve- a detachable detail of welt and patch pockets for processing the upper line of the cut or being an element of the decorative design of the product (pocket with a flap). The valve may have different shape(rectangular, triangular, rounded edges etc.), corresponding to the shape of the pocket.

Yoke- a detachable part or knot of the upper part of the front (shelves), back, sleeves, as well as skirts and trousers. It can be stitched, consignment note, detachable (folding).

Combined sleeve- a sleeve that combines two cuts - set-in and raglan, set-in and one-piece, raglan and one-piece.

drawstring- a detail of the product in the form of a strip of material, stitched on the front or wrong side, which serves to pull the belt, cord, elastic band, providing its screed in any area (usually along the waist or hips).

Gusset- an insert in shoulder clothing at the bottom of the armhole in products with one-piece sleeves or raglan sleeves, providing freedom of movement of the hands. The shape of the gusset is varied: diamond-shaped, rectangular, triangular, complex, etc.

Lapel- the upper, unfolding edge of the side.

Lei- a detail of a product made of lining material, covering on the wrong side of the trousers the junction of the middle seam (seat seam) with crotch seams(seams connecting the halves of the trousers on the inside).

leaflet- a pocket detail made of the main material for processing the cut line, fixed on the sides, or being only an element of the decorative design of the product, imitating a pocket with a leaflet. The leaflet can be single-cut or consist of two parts. The most stable form of the leaflets of the upper pockets in men's jackets.

Hinged (attached) loop- a loop sewn to the part. It can be made of braid, stitched and turned-out strip of material, cord, chain woven from threads.

Bib- detail of the shoulder product, covering the part of the body in the chest area.

Overlay- a part or assembly of a product to increase the wear resistance and (or) protective properties of individual places (knee pads, elbow pads, etc.), as well as for decorative design.

patch pocket- a pocket, for which the upper part of the pocket of various shapes is adjusted to the part of the product. The top unstitched edge is the entrance to the pocket. Most often used in dress products, men's top shirts. Folds, applique, embroidery can be made on the pocket; the edges of the pocket can be trimmed with piping, frill, lace, etc.

Turning- a detail from the main material in the form of a narrow strip for processing a pocket cut or fastener.

Single breasted closure- a central side fastener with one row of buttons and one row of loops on products with a slight overlap of one shelf on another.

Okat- rounded protrusion at the top of the sleeve.

Basic parts of garments- details that form the basis of the design, for which drawings are developed. The main details of shoulder products: front (shelves), back, sleeves, collar; waist - half trousers, panels of skirts, belt.

escarpment- the lower part of the product for processing the hidden fastener of the front half of the trousers, intended for sewing on buttons, zippers, buttons, textile fasteners.

Collar swing- the unfolding part of the collar, located above the top line of the stand (there is no stand in the collar).

Before- the front part of the product with a slit that does not reach the bottom of the part, or without a slit, one-piece or consisting of parts.

The loop- detail of the product for fastening with buttons. It can be slotted, hinged (attached), turned, overcast, corded, threaded, etc.

plank- a detail of the product in the form of a set-in, stitched or stitched strip of material for processing and decorating the edges of the fastener.

Shoulder pad- a detail for giving a clear shape to the shoulder part of the product. The design and shape depend on the type and model of the product, the most complex (multi-layer) is the shoulder pad of the coat.

Pickup- detail of the product for processing the edges of the incision in front (reverse side of the bead).

backtack- a detail of the product that protects the junction of the middle seam of the trousers with the step ones from stretching.

Valance- pocket detail from the main material, covering the lining in the place of the pocket opening.

Lining- a part or assembly of a product for decorating it from the wrong side, made of lining materials with a smooth surface and a low coefficient of friction to facilitate putting on and taking off. The lining can be insulating.

Half pants- detail of the product, left and right, covering the lower torso and leg. It can be made up of front and back pieces.

skirt panel- front and (or) back part of the product, covering the part of the torso and legs, one-piece or consisting of parts.

Polachka- the front part of the shoulder product with a slit reaching the bottom, part of the front, one-piece or consisting of parts (Ndp. shelf).

Hidden clasp hidden, invisible. The outdated name is supatnaya.

Belt- a detail of the product for fixing it on the figure of a person and (or) decorative design. By design, the belt can be fastened (with a button, buckle or hook) and tied (knot, bow).

Armhole- a cutout for the arm, as well as a line connecting the sleeve with the front (shelf) and back.

pad- a part or assembly of a product for stiffening, dimensional stability or heat-shielding properties, located between the upper and lower layers of materials.

welt loop- a buttonhole made directly on the part: a slot machined with two facings (narrow strips of material) or overcast with zigzag stitches. The swept buttonhole can be straight or with a “eyelet” in which the “leg” is located - for buttons sewn on the “leg”.

Welt pocket- a pocket, for which a part of the product is cut through. The slot is the entrance to the pocket. Welt pocket is most common in coats and suits.

Raglan- a kind of sleeve, cut with a part of the front (shelves) and back.

Sleeve- detail or assembly garment covering the hand. The sleeve may consist of top, bottom, back and (or) front parts; have different lengths (long, short, three-quarters); different designs (one-seam, two-seam, three-seam, set-in, raglan, one-piece, combined); bottom design (with a slot, with a slit in the seam, on the cuff, with seam processing at the hem).

Through clasp- open clasp.

Back- the back part of the shoulder product, one-piece or consisting of parts.

collar stand- the vertically located part of the collar, shaping its folding part, can be cut out separately or one-piece with flying away.

strap- a detail of the product, which serves to regulate the degree of its fit to the body and (or) decorative design. Most often, one end of the strap is sewn into the seam, the other is free.

One-piece sleeve(kimono) - a kind of two-seam sleeve, cut along with the upper part of the front (shelves) and back. It can have a different armhole depth, with an armhole depth reaching the waist line, the sleeve is called a “bat”.

A cup- a part of the product that covers mammary gland, one-piece or set-in, round or oval.

belt loop- a detail of the product in the form of a narrow, folded in half and processed strip of material for holding and holding a belt, belt, shoulder strap or strap in a certain position.

Stirrupka- a part of the product in the form of a strip of material attached to the bottom of the trousers to keep them taut.

Finishing details

Application- a detail for the decorative design of the product, sewn or pasted, which is a pattern made on the material by printing, embroidery, and other methods. To give a bulge to the pattern, cotton wool, synthetic winterizer, etc. are laid between the base and the application.

Bow- a detail for decorative design of a product in the form of a ribbon tied in several loops, removable or non-removable.

Basque- a detail of the product for decorative design in the form of a flared strip of material, sewn along the waist line or removable.

Bake- a detail of a product for decorative design in the form of a single or doubled strip of material, sewn between the details or adjusted to them along two longitudinal sides.

Shuttlecock- a detail of the product for its decorative design in the form of a wide strip of material, cut mainly in a circle, connected to the product along the edge of one longitudinal side, the design of which ensures the formation of a wavy free edge.

Tie- a detail of a product for decorative design in the form of a wide ribbon tied in a knot under the collar with loose ends.

jabot- a detachable piece of light materials or lace for decoration at the collar, with gathers, pleats or ruffles, attached to the collar at the front of the neckline.

coquilla- Removable part for decoration and decoration women's dresses and blouse. It is cut out in the form of an oval, circle, strip in a spiral, single-layer or two-layer, attached to the front of the neck.

Frill- a detail for decorative design of the product in the form of a strip of material cut across or at an angle of 45e to the longitudinal threads, assembled on one side into an assembly or fold and connected by the assembled edge to the product. Maybe lace. The frill is already flounced. It is used for finishing dresses, blouses, etc.

Pata- a detail of a product of a rectangular shape for decorative design, stitched or sewn into the seam at one end, fastened with a button, button, textile fastener at the other. It is used in coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets, men's top shirts, blouses.

Shoulder strap- a detail or unit of the product in the form of a strip attached to the product in the shoulder area for its decorative design. Used in coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets, men's shirts.
Source www.znaytovar.ru

All women's clothing fastens on the front from right to left, on the back - from left to right. Buttons are sewn along the mid-front line on the left side of the garment. The button stand should have a length equal to the thickness of the bead. The beginning of the loop, i.e. the corner in which the button should be located, is located exactly on the line of the middle of the front on the right side. When the clothes are buttoned, both lines of the middle of the front overlap one another.

To build a fastener, first determine the size of the button. Then mark the locations of the buttons at an equal distance from each other and draw small horizontal lines intersecting with the mid-front line (Fig. 141).

To create the impression of a higher chest, the button located on the chest line should be lowered a little lower.

To determine the width of the half-skid (distance from the line of the middle of the front to the edge of the side), the following minimum values ​​\u200b\u200bmust be taken into account, cm: for blouses - 1.5; for skirts and dresses fastened to the bottom, -2; for a classic jacket-1.5; for summer coats-2; for coats made of heavy fabrics - 2.5. The width of the half-skid with medium and large buttons should be equal to half the width of the button plus 0.5 cm (Fig. 142). Some buttons require a half-drift that exceeds the minimum width.

Draw the line of the edge of the bead parallel to the line of the middle of the front. When cutting the fabric, draw a line in the middle of the front and horizontal lines indicating the position of the buttons on one shelf and the loops on the other. This will help you with fitting.

The first button is usually placed at an equal distance from the edge of the bead and from the neckline. But it can be placed closer to the neck than to the side, leaving at least 0.5 cm to the edge of the button.

Products with a displaced side clasp, shown in fig. 143, a, have a larger semi-skid width than products with a central side fastener.

Prepare the template by turning the top tuck into a waist tuck and leaving enough paper on the right to build the bead. Bend the pattern along the line of the middle of the front and draw the first tuck line on the allowance left on the right (Fig. 143, b). Determine on the figure the depth of the neckline and the distance from point P to the edge of the bead. Transfer these measurements to the template and draw a slightly concave neck line, as shown in fig. 143, b (curvature is necessary if you want to get a deep neckline in clothes with a wide half-skid).

Along the border, mark the location of the buttons, placing them at the desired distance from the edge of the border. Draw small horizontal lines at equal distances from each other. On one of these lines, indicate the center of the button with a vertical line, and then mark the same distance from the edge of the bead on each horizontal line. Move the button locations to the other side of the shelf.

Product clasp is decorative and at the same time functional element in loose clothes(Fig. 2.11).

Rice. 2.11. Clasp options

It allows you to freely put on and take off the product, as well as create a certain composition. The clasp can be designed in any division line - front, back, side. A wide variety of fasteners is achieved by varying their depth, width, height and type.

Distinguish clasps central and offset, "end-to-end", on a style, through, hinged, secret (supatny), on a lath, closed and open to a certain level, with a lapel and without it. According to the materials used- on buttons, snaps, hooks, ties, zipper, Velcro, magnets, lacing, etc.

Depending on the type of fastener, a different side width (half-skid value)Shb . It is determined by the distance from the middle of the front (half-skid line) to the edge of the side. The width of the side Shb depends on the type of product, season, fashion.

At butt clasp on the closed zipper the edge of the bead coincides with the half-skid line, an allowance of 1.0 - 2.0 cm is given for processing the bead. Similarly, for hinged loops or when lacing, only a processing allowance of 1.0 cm or 0.7 cm for turning the bead is taken into account.

At open zipper the edge of the bead is shifted towards the armhole by the width of its open link.

When designing central clasp(single-breasted) take into account the overlap of one edge of the board with another (Fig. 2.12). In the general case, the width of the bead is determined as ¾ (0.75) of the button diameter Dp and the distance P between the edge of the button and the edge of the bead, i.e. Shb 1 \u003d 0.75Dp + P,

where P = 0.5÷1.0 cm. If the product has a finishing line along the edge of the side, its value is also taken into account.

In general Shb 1 \u003d 0.5 Dp + P + Shotd,

Rice. 2.12. Design of the central fastener.

On the rice. 2.13 shows the layout of loops and finishing buttons for offset clasp(double-breasted). Maximum value Shb 2 does not exceed the measure of Tsg.

In general Shb 2 \u003d 0.5R + 0.5Dp + P + Shot;

where P is the distance between the buttons.

For placket fasteners its width Shpl is defined as doubled Shb: Shpl \u003d 2 (0.5Dp + P + Shotd).

The loops on the bar, as a rule, are vertically marked along it so that the upper end of the loop goes up behind the middle of the button. bottom loop must be located at a distance not less than the distance between the buttons from the bottom line of the product (Fig. 2.14).

Loop location considered both in relation to the half-drift line, and in relation to the upper and lower edges of the product. In products with a central fastener (Fig. 2.12) the loop should go beyond the half-slip line by 0.3 - 0.5 cm (depending on the thickness of the button) towards the bead so that the “leg” of the sewn button in the buttoned product is exactly on the half-slip line.

Top loop in products with a fastener to the top, they are placed down from the upper edge of the bead at a distance of 0.5Dp + P + Shotd ( rice. 2.14). In dresses, blouses, this is 1.5 ÷ 2.0 cm, in coats - 2.5 ÷ 3.5 cm.

Lower the loop in top clothes should be at the level of the outstretched arm (approximately at the level of the pubic point), which allows you to fasten the product without bending over and does not interfere with walking. AT jackets and jackets- installed at the level of the side pocket. AT blouses- not less than the distance between the buttons.

Rice. 2.13. The layout of the buttonholes and finishing buttons for the offset fastener

Rice. 2.14. Plank clasp design

Loop length is defined as the diameter of the button Dp + (0.2 ÷ 0.5) cm, i.e. it should be 2÷5 mm larger than the button, depending on its thickness (Fig. 2.12): Ln \u003d Dp + (0.2 ÷ 0.5) cm.

In products adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes the position of the loops and buttons should correspond to the levels of the convex and concave areas of the body surface, i.e. levels of the chest, waist and hips for their fixation.

In products straight and loose silhouettes the loops are oriented in relation to the level of the side pocket (not lower than its lower edge).

Distance between buttons in the product is usually uniform, but there may be uneven grouping of loops and buttons according to the model.

AT women's clothing loops placed on the right shelf male- on the left.

Style 35. Double-breasted dress

Sizes 48-56

Dress made of cotton, silk or woolen printed or plain fabric, one-piece, close-fitting, with a double-breasted two-button closure. Sleeves are set-in or one-piece (optional). The back is straight.

The lower part of the skirt is detachable, laid with opposite folds. Instead of counter folds, you can make one-sided (see Fig. 135, a) or pleated. When making a dress made of fabric in small cells or stripes, the lower part of the skirt can be cut out along the oblique, transverse or shared direction of the thread. This dress can be detachable at the waistline. It can be worn with or without a belt.

Drawing shaped lines on a pattern

The style is designed according to the main pattern of the dress (see Fig. 2).

Backrest (Fig. 136, a). Increase the width of the cutout of the sprout by 2-3 cm and draw it with a smooth line, as shown in the figure. Draw a straight line from the end of the tail tuck on the skirt to the bottom line. Divide in half the middle of the back from the waist line to the bottom line. Draw a line from the division point to side cut.

Before (Fig. 136, b). Increase the width of the neckline along the shoulder sections by 2_3 cm. Set aside 4-5 cm from the ends of the shoulder darts, connect points 2-3 and 4-5 with smooth lines, and connect the ends of the shoulder darts with the first lines of the traveling tucks (to get shelves in). Move the ends of the shoulder darts closer to the armhole by 4 cm and build new darts. Align the lines of the shoulder darts, to do this, measure the segment from the shoulder cut to the end of it and set aside equal segments along the second lines of the darts, as shown in the figure. Apply cut lines to move the shoulder darts. To do this, divide the side cuts from the depth of the armhole cutout to the waist line into three parts and connect the upper division points with the ends of the shoulder darts. Draw straight lines from the ends of the waist darts on the skirt to the bottom line. Draw a cut line on the bottom of the skirt as on the back.

Number the details of the pattern and show the direction of the shared thread.

Obtaining a modified pattern and cutting

Cut the pattern along the applied (shaped) lines. When cutting the details of the pattern, spread out so that the direction of the grain thread on the pattern coincides with the grain thread on the fabric.

Seam allowance and stocks are shown in fig. 137 with a dotted line, trim the facings with strokes.

Backrest (see Fig. 136, a). Cut out according to the received pattern. Undercut the facing for processing the sprout.

The back of the skirt (Fig. 137, a). Move the parts of the pattern 20 cm apart to get oncoming folds.

Left shelf (Fig. 137, b). Cut the pattern from the side cut without cutting 0.5 cm to the end of the shoulder tuck, close it, which will open a new tuck from the side cut.

Right shelf (Fig. 137, c). close shoulder tuck as on the left shelf, and cut out according to the resulting pattern. Trim the facings for processing the neck and fasteners.

Cut out the front of the skirt according to the pattern obtained with an increase in counter folds, i.e. 20 cm, similarly to the back of the skirt.

Open the skirts around in the pleat

To cut the skirt, you need the following measurements (in cm):

Full waist circumference. . . 76

Full circumference of the hips. . . 100

Skirt length. . . 70

When measuring the full circumference of the hips 100 cm plus 4 cm, an increase in fabric for the skirt is three times more than the measurement: 104X3 = 312 cm. In length - the length of the skirt according to the measure plus 7 cm for the hemming of the bottom and the connection of the skirt with the bodice. To determine the number of folds, divide the measurement of the circumference of the hips by the desired distance between the folds. For example, the distance between the folds is 4 cm: 104:4=26 folds.

To determine the depth of each fold, subtract from the total width of the fabric measure taken hip circumference with allowance for loose fit: 312-104=208 cm. Divide the remaining width of the fabric by the number of folds: 208:26=8 cm (depth of each fold).

Calculation of the skirt at the waist. To calculate a skirt by the waist, you need to find out the difference between the width of the skirt with folds and the measurement of the waist circumference: 104-(76+2)=26 cm. Deepen each fold by 1 cm, to do this, take 0.5 cm from each side of the folds: 26:26=1 cm.

In order for all the folds to lie well and not diverge, you need to reduce the depth of each fold by 1 cm below, i.e. add 0.5 cm to each side of the fold. Connect the marked upper and lower points 0.5 with the hip line and along these lines lay folds.

With a fabric width of 1 m 6 cm, the skirt will need three lengths, i.e. (70 + 7) X3 \u003d 231 cm.

Sew three panels that form a total width of the skirt 312 cm. Draw a line of the hips, for this, set aside 20 cm from the top cut down (permanently). Mark the folds with chalk or pins along the tail cut, along the applied line of the hips and the line of the bottom. In order for the last seam of the skirt to fall into the inner fold of the fold, you need to set aside 1 cm on each side of this panel for the seam and half the depth of the fold (Fig. 137, d), then alternately set aside the distance between the folds of 4 cm and the depth of 8 cm. Marking the folds, you need to ensure that the connections of the panels pass along the inner fold of the fold.

If the seams do not fall into the inner fold of the folds, they need to be moved and the excess fabric from the seam should be cut off. Stitch all panels of fabric, except for the last seam, sweep and hem the bottom, not sewing up to the edges of 15 cm. Lay the folds from right to left along the drawn lines and fasten along the width with oblique stitches (see Fig. 137, e). Iron the swept folds, remove the basting and iron them completely from the front and back sides through a moistened linen cloth. Stitch the last seam and finish the bottom hemming.

If the dress is cut off below the waist line, then instead of measuring the full circumference of the hips, you need to use the measurement of the line for sewing the bodice to the skirt and calculate the folds, as mentioned above.

Open pleated skirts. To cut a pleated skirt, the fabric needs the same width and length as for a pleated skirt. The length of the lower part of the skirt is equal to the length of the pattern plus 8 cm for the hemming of the bottom and connection with the bodice. Hem the bottom of the skirt, iron. Pleated can be made by tensioning the shared thread, for this, along the upper cut and the bottom line, mark the folds in finished form, for example 1 cm. Set aside along the upper cut and the bottom line for a seam of 1 cm, the depth of the fold is 2 cm (Fig. 137, e), then alternately set aside the distance between the folds of I cm and a depth of 2 cm. Lay the folds from right to left along the upper cut of the skirt and the bottom line and fasten along the width with oblique stitches (Fig. 137, e). Attach with thin nails each fold along the upper cut and the hemmed bottom of the skirt to the ironing board (Fig. 137, g). Sweep folds along the middle of the length of the skirt with oblique stitches. Cover the skirt with a moistened ironing pad and iron. Remove nails and iron from the inside again; then remove the basting and iron until the folds are completely attached. Fasten the folds from the inside with an edge (Fig. 137, h),

Processing sequence

1. Lay the snares along the main and shaped lines of the pattern and mark the middle of the back, front and waist line with a lining seam.

2. Sweep and grind travel and side tucks.

3. Process the loop on the right shelf.

4. Baste and stitch the shoulder seams.

5. Stitch the undercut facing of the sprout with the facings of the shelves along the shoulder seams. Baste the facing to the neckline, combining the shoulder seams, sew, folding the facing and the dress with the front sides inward. Bend the facing towards the wrong side, sweep out, releasing a roll from the side of the dress by 0.1-0.2 cm. Process the second cut of the facing on the machine and attach to the dress.

6. Put the right shelf on the left, combining the middle of the front, and stitch along the waist line.

7. Baste and stitch side seams.

8. Sweep and stitch the sleeves into the armholes.

9. Stitch the seams on the bottom of the skirt, hem the bottom with hidden stitches, lay the folds, stitch them down from the cut edge by 10 cm, fasten the ends of the folds with bartacks. Baste a piece from the wrong side lining fabric, apply the contours of the bartack with a silk or garus thread, then make the first puncture with a needle from the inside out from the top of the bartack. Lay the thread brought to the front side along the side of the triangle, filling it. The threads must be laid tightly one next to the other, with the same tension. Bartacks are used to decorate, fasten cuts, pockets, slots (cuts) and the ends of pleats. The way to perform the backtack is shown in Fig. 137, and.

10. Bend the cut edges to the width of the allowance, sweep, put on the front side of the lower part of the skirt, combining the snares, bast and stitch 1-2.5 cm from the fold.

11. Iron the dress and sew on the buttons.

The fastener in clothes has a functional purpose. It allows you to freely put on and take off clothes. Often the fastener is given the appearance of a finishing piece.

The location of the fastener on the garment is determined by the model. Sometimes two fasteners are made in products of an adjacent silhouette.

The processing of the top and bottom edges of the fastener can be the same or different, depending on the design, fabric properties and type of product.

Fasteners are:

By appearance

Products reaching the bottom (through)

Middle-located parts (non-through)

· Fastening to the top

Lapel closures

Depending on the characteristics of technological processing

fastener in a non-through section of the main part;

fastener in a seam or relief;

fastener in the through section of the main part.

According to the design and method of processing fasteners are:

With selections (cut-off or one-piece with a shelf or collar)

With slats (tuning, stitched, set-in, overhead)

· With folds

· With edging cuts

Fastening method:

On buttons and loops (stitched, overcast, hinged)

・On hooks and loops

· With zipper

Lacing

Fastening of clothes is also performed with the help of ties, buttons, carabiners; straps and buckles, frames, rings; Velcro textile fasteners (Velcro). Each of these elements is fixed in its own way on the main part.

Ties, straps, a zipper, as well as holders of rings, frames, buckles are sewn to the main part or sewn into the turning seam.

A Velcro textile fastener is sewn around the perimeter of a piece of braid.

Buttons, buttons, hooks are sewn by hand or on special equipment.

Carabiners, special buttons and buttons; as well as blocks and eyelets, which make holes for lacing, are fixed on the main parts by riveting.

Holes for lacing, as well as slotted loops, are sewn manually or on special equipment.

Hinged (air) loops are sewn into the seams when processing sections or when connecting parts. Such loops are made from an oblique inlay or a braided cord.

Most often, fastening with buttons and loops is performed.

Loops are:

Turned (processed with one or two turns)
Overcast (performed on a special vehicle or manually; the loop is marked on the auxiliary pattern with two points, while the size of the loop exceeds the diameter of the button by 2-3 mm; loops are straight and with an eye, overcast with or without gimp thread). The loop can be located in the longitudinal, transverse or less often oblique direction. The length of the loop is equal to the diameter of the button + 2-5 mm, the distance from the edge of the bead is not less than ¾ of the button diameter. Threads are laid along the lines of the loops
From a tucked cord (strips of fabric cut along the oblique, folded in half and turned; such a cord is cut into segments and attached to the edges of the cut with the help of turning)
From a braided cord (the cord is woven from threads pulled along the edge of the fabric; the cord is not cut into segments, but is tacked to the edges of the cut, bending it in a zigzag manner)
From a straight strip of fabric (performed from a strip 2-3 cm wide, cut along a shared thread and stitched with an overlay seam with two closed sections, subsequently folded to the corner and fixed across the loop at the base of the corner)

Requirements for processing loops:

Location parallel or perpendicular to the edge of the board at an equal distance from it

Equal distance between loops

Smooth edges with a clear and dense pattern weaves (for overcast loops)

· Presence of a bartack at the end of the buttonhole

When processing fasteners it is necessary to provide evenness of the edges of the fastener and finishing lines, the tightness of the sides of the fastener, the symmetry of the sides of the fastener and the absence of distortions, the cleanliness of processing, the good fastening of the fittings.

1. Types of picks and their use in the processing of fasteners

Pick-up - this is a part or assembly of a garment, cut out in accordance with the configuration of the cut of the bead and serving for its processing.

The warp thread in the selection passes accordingly to the warp thread of the shelf, except for cases due to the peculiarities of the pattern and direction of the pile of the fabric.

The hem is a kind of undercut facing of the through section of the main part. Its outer cut corresponds to the cut of the main part. Unlike turning, the width of the selection along its entire length is not the same. Depending on the design features, the pick-up can be one-piece cut with the main or constructive and decorative details, cut-off, cut-off shortened.

Pickup by design may be:

One-piece with a shelf

One-piece with collar

1-Piece with placket

Cut-off (maybe shortened)

Common to all types of rebounds is their initial processing. Selections are duplicated. The adhesive pad should not reach the cut of the neck and shoulder cut by 2.3 mm, to the bottom line by 1...2 mm. The inner section of the selection is overcast, edged or sewn with a seam to the hem with an open cut 1 ... 3 mm wide with a folded allowance width of 5 ... 10 mm.

3. Processing the edge of the bead with a one-piece selection

The processing of the sides with one-piece selections can be performed with and without gaskets.

When processing without gaskets the border is bent to the front side of the product along the bead line, the upper and lower corners of the bead are turned at a distance of 1-2 mm below the hem line of the bottom of the product. The pick-up is turned out, the edging is straightened on the turned areas. They notice and iron the fold of the side, lay the finishing line.

Processing the edge of the bead with a one-piece selection with gasket

Adhesive pad and the edge (if provided) is connected to the shelf and the edge. Then they grind the ledge of the side and the bottom of the edge. The seams are ironed out, the corners are turned out and swept out, straightening the edging, at the same time they notice the one-piece selection.

If in the manufacture of products with a finishing line along the edge of the side non-adhesive gaskets, they are basted on the collar (in products with turn-down lapels) or adjusted (in products with a fastener to the top - on the collar at a distance of 3-5 mm from its cut, located at the side line, if the product is without a finishing line along the edge of the side. If in the future a finishing line is provided along the edge of the side, it will fix the gasket, and it can not be additionally adjusted), grind the upper and lower corners of the sides (in this case, the lower cut of the gasket should be located along the line of the hem of the bottom, the upper one - along the line of the neck of the product), notice the edge of the side and lay the finishing line.

The edge of the bead is fixed with a finishing stitch or adhesive film, cobweb, on a blind stitch machine.

Processing the edge of the board with a selection, one-piece cut with a strap.

The pick-up is reinforced with a gasket in its entirety or only on the section of the bar.

The cut of the plank is sewn to the cut of the bead, the seam is ironed or ironed onto the plank, then the processing is carried out in the same way, bending the pick along the inflection line of the bead board.

1. Features of processing the fastener with a cut-off selection

When processing the sides with cut-off selections, they can be cut with extensions: in dresses with a clasp to the waistline and in blouses - from one, and in dresses, gowns with a through clasp - no more than two. The seam of attaching the extension can run in the transverse or oblique direction with a bevel value of not more than a third of the width of the collar. The length of the extension is at least 6 cm. The distance from the seams to the loops must be at least 2 cm. If the product is made of transparent fabric, the extension is allowed only on the lower collar.

Outline loops on the side

Internal cuts picks are processed on a special or universal sewing machine(if the product is unlined)

· In products made of silk fabrics with medium shedding - overcast. If the pick-ups have a lining, overcasting is done with it. Seam width - at least 4 mm, stitch frequency - 3-3.5 stitches per 10 mm stitches.

· In products made of easily crumbling fabrics - overcasting with subsequent overcasting with a hem seam with an open cut or without overcasting with a hem seam with a closed cut.

In products made of cotton fabrics - a hem seam with an open cut

The processed selection is applied to the front side of the shelf front side down, equalizing the cuts, basting with straight stitches from the inner edge to the corner of the lapel, planting the collar in the corner of the ledge, in the lapel section, in the loop section; from the bottom loop to the bottom - evenly, at the bottom - the selection is pulled, along the bottom of jackets and coat dresses with a shelf fit. In products made of woolen fabrics, the fit along the edge of the bead is trimmed so that the iron does not go beyond the line of basting the selection.

Turning the sides with a cut-off selection are made from the side of the shelf from the bottom up to the notch, which determines the end of the collar stitching. Depends on the accuracy of the operation appearance clothes: symmetry and identity of the shape of the left and right sides in shape and pattern, the correct position of the lapel and side in finished product. The turning line must be strictly parallel to the edge of the bead and edge. In products made of easily fraying fabrics, the seam allowance of turning can be overcast.

In products made of thick, elastic fabrics, the bead turning seam is ironed out to facilitate subsequent processing.

boards turn inside out on the front side, the seams are straightened and swept out on a s / m or manually in order to temporarily fix the edging (in thin fabrics - with straight stitches, in thick ones - with oblique stitches).

The WTO is performed on the lapel section - from the side of the shelf, and the sides - from the side of the selection.

In products with a fastener to the top, the edging along the entire board is formed from the side of the shelf, and the WTO is performed from the side of the selection.

Fixing the edge along the edge of the board can be done in several ways:

1. Finishing stitch - perform along the side after connecting the collar with the neck at the same time along the collar and sides.

2. To the "clean edge"

BUT) thread way(by adjusting the seam allowance of turning in products with a fastener to the top - on the collar; in products with a lapel - on the lapel section - on the shelf, on the side section - on the collar. In this case, the stitching line runs 1-2 mm from the turning line. The edging can be fixed hand fluff stitch

B) Glue method- the turning seam is fixed with a glue edge or cobweb 4-5 mm wide, laid at a distance of 1 mm from the line. To reduce the thickness of the seam, the allowance on the side of one of the parts is cut to 2-3 mm.)

The inner edges of the headbands can be stitched onto the shelves with the cut edge folded inward, but without prior stitching.

The lower corners of the sides, when processing them to the bottom of the product with cut-off or one-piece selections, are turned at a distance of 1-2 mm below the hem line of the product. The inner sections of the bands can be stitched at a distance of 2-3 mm for an allowance for processing the bottom (across its width).

In blouses that are worn unfilled, in flared skirts, dresses, sundresses with a through fastener made of raincoat and denim fabrics, the lower corners of the sides are not turned, but they are processed with a hem seam simultaneously with the processing of the bottom of the product.

Cut-off shortened selection. It is used to reduce the thickness of the knot at the bottom of the side, if the materials of the product have increased thickness and rigidity. The selection is prepared as usual: they duplicate and process the inner edge. The pick-up is laid with the front side on the front side of the main part, combining the cuts of the bead and the lower cuts, and stitched to the allowance of the hem of the bottom of the main part (Width of the seam 7 ... 10 mm). The seam is ironed or ironed in the direction of the bottom hem allowance. Then the shortened pick, together with the allowance for the hem, is bent to the front side of the main part, the cuts of the side, the neck are combined, shoulder sections and grind the board with a selection from the ledge to the bottom. Further processing is carried out in the usual way.

Pick-up zip processing When processing the fastener, a detachable zipper is used. It is advisable to duplicate allowances.

Each of the open parts of the zipper is placed on the main part with the front side to the front side so that the teeth of the zipper are directed towards the part, and the edge of the zipper tape coincides with the edge cut of the part. The upper end of the braid of the zipper is bent towards the side. The zipper is basted and stitched along the bead line using a special foot.

The pick-up is laid on the main part with the right side to the front side and stitched along the bead line from the side of the shelf, laying a line in the seam of the zipper. Grind the neck and bottom of the product with a selection. The pick-up is turned to the wrong side of the main part, excess allowances in the corners are cut out. The pick is straightened, ironed. On the front side along the side, a finishing one is laid (one or two, depending on the model).