It is the dress that can make you more feminine and beautiful, convey your romantic or sensual mood, emphasize the dignity of your figure and hide flaws, visually make the figure more slender. A dress can save in a situation where there is no time to match a blouse with a skirt or trousers, a jacket, etc. Due to the variety of styles with the help of a dress, you can create a variety of images: from business to sexy. The main thing is to choose the right style of dress for your figure.

MODELING OF A DRESS FOR A TRIANGLE (PEAR) BODY TYPE

A pear-shaped figure is very feminine, but sometimes it brings some difficulties to the owner when choosing a finished dress due to the difference in the girths of the hips and chest. You shouldn't get upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neckline, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrasting inserts that run along the dress and visually model the figure, as well as a little high waist, heels and matching tights will make you slimmer. We try to avoid decor in the hips, patch pockets, draperies, transverse stripes and large prints.

For an example of modeling, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on a pattern-based adjoining silhouette. The style is interesting in that the model lines that form the silhouette demonstrate the best and most advantageous female figure just the lower type. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help to visually hide the width of the hips, and the white silhouette, expanding upwards, will bring to the fore the built silhouette. But, here you can’t be too smart with excessive narrowing of the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to expand the skirt a little to the bottom.

Modeling. On the details of the back and front pattern, draw model lines of reliefs passing from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through waist darts, on the back, transfer part of the solution to middle line backrest, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest tuck in the armhole. It remains only to outline the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the circumferences of the waist and hips is large and the solutions of the tucks for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the tuck must be divided into two, otherwise finished product there will be ugly creases in the waist area.

In the second modeling option, we propose to expand the skirt to the bottom, make it the so-called A - figurative silhouette, you can also make the dress detachable at the waist.

Modeling a dress for the type of figure "Inverted Triangle"

Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. The whole decor, bright prints - down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, raglan sleeves will help us here, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a dress with a shoulder strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear curvy wide skirts, skirts or trousers with a peplum, dresses of a straight cut, but not too voluminous and wide, with vertical seams or trim.

Do you have such situations when you want to create something that is not related to generally accepted standards. For example, have you dreamed of sewing clothes not according to a ready-made pattern from a popular women's magazine, but according to your own pattern? If you have ever had such thoughts, then you are an extraordinary, creative person and it's time for you to start modeling. What it is and how it happens, for example, modeling a dress, we will describe in this article.

general information

Modeling is a process that allows you to modify finished pattern on own will. This also includes the creation of a pattern from a photo or visual image, taking into account the replacement of some details.

For example, you really liked the dress that your favorite movie star wore during the next awards ceremony. However, you know that the parameters of your figure are far from ideal, therefore, you need to model the dress. This means that the model of clothing you like can be modified or modeled to your liking, taking into account your own physiological characteristics.

Basic concepts in modeling

Using the modeling technique, you can often come across such a term as a basic pattern. What it is? This concept implies a universal pattern-pattern, on the basis of which you can create a new one that meets your requirements and figure. There are also such common and already familiar concepts to many as “joint”, “darts”, “seams”, “side cut”, “thigh line”, etc.

Along with these concepts, there are new ones. For example, “sue”, which involves removing unnecessary edges and creating a kind of convex shape due to wet-heat treatment. The word "stitch" - implies the connection of two parts of suitable size using machine stitching. All these concepts should be known to those who are going to sew or children's.

What are the main steps in modeling?

The entire modeling process can be conditionally divided into such stages as the evaluation and development of a future project, the transfer of the main elements to the fabric and the connection of parts. This means that during the evaluation process, you must mentally separate the selected model into separate parts, think about how to design them together, taking into account the characteristics of your body. Then, you need to take measurements and transfer them correctly to paper and fabric.

What are the methods of clothing modeling?

Currently, there are several methods of clothing modeling:

• fake;
• methods of "tattooing";
• settlement;
• proportional settlement;
• andropocentric and client-oriented.

Fake method for modeling clothes

When designing and modeling clothes, one cannot help but recall such a wonderful method as dummy. This is a great option for processing the selected shape of the product to display it in real size. At the same time, to create a form, you can use a variety of standard patterns and patterns, as well as a variant with the construction of a design structure.

In addition, the dummy method is relevant for planned fitting during tailoring.

The method of "tattooing" in modeling

The most ancient method, which our grandmothers and great-great-grandmothers used many centuries ago, is considered to be “tattoo”. It involves modeling and sewing clothes directly on a mannequin or person. It is carried out with the help of pins and stealth.

What is a computational modeling method?

The calculation method is conditionally divided into four subspecies: proportional-calculation, settlement-analytical, client-based and settlement-graphic. When using these methods, as practice shows, the values ​​​​of a conditionally typical figure corresponding to certain dimensions are used. In the future, on the basis of this type, you can create patterns of a different size.

The calculation and analytical method is based on the principles of constructing a drawing according to geometric calculations.

What is the proportional calculation method?

Dress modeling is impossible without correct calculations. Therefore, when tailoring clothes, a proportional calculation method is often used, which has several of its own “branchings”. In particular, it includes the version with the German cut of Muller and Son. It involves tailoring according to a pattern designed for a standard European figure. Recall that the European type of figure is a long back, medium-sized chest, small hips and buttocks.

The second option, related to the proportional calculation method, is called the Lin Jacques method. It provides for the construction basic foundation corresponding to the conditionally standard figure. In this case, all information about a particular measurement can be found in a special table, where there are approximate designations. So, the size of the tuck solution for women with a breast volume of 80 cm corresponds to 6.5 cm.

When modeling a women's dress, one should not forget about the third version of the proportional calculation method, called the methodology of the Russian Republican House of Models. The main advantage of this option is its simplicity. This means that when constructing a pattern, complex calculations and formulas are not used.

What are customer-centric and andropocentric methods?

You can also find client-oriented and andropocentric tailoring techniques. As you can see from these names, they are based on individual approach when creating an image. This group also includes such techniques as Lubax, Galia Zlachevskaya's Genetics of Cut and Unimex.

When constructing a dress pattern using the Lubax method, horizontals and verticals are taken into account, and a certain norm is established for different types of figures. In addition, when creating a pattern, it is customary to take a certain pattern as a basis, the values ​​\u200b\u200bof which are adjusted in accordance with the parameters of your body.

The technique "Genetics of Cut by Galiya Zlachevskaya" is based on the principles of the so-called golden section. With its help, you can quite accurately build a pattern of a skirt or dress. Unimex, on the other hand, suggests the simplest cutting and sewing technique, aimed at high-speed work and focused on individual characteristics each client.

What rules should be taken into account when modeling?

If you want to easily create any dress patterns, you must follow three simple rules modeling. First, try to take measurements with maximum precision. Second, to build basic pattern and its improvements at will, use the most accurate calculations. And finally, thirdly, do not forget to increase the freedom of the fit while creating the basic pattern in accordance with the silhouette of the dress you have chosen.

How to transfer an image from a photo or image?

Suppose you have already decided what kind of design and modeling of clothes you will do. You chose a photo, made a visual assessment of it, and mentally suggested what kind of base pattern you need. What's next? Next, you need to transfer the image of your model to tracing paper. What is needed for this?

To do this, draw the main line corresponding to the so-called middle line of the shelf. In this case, take the following indicators as a guideline:

• jugular fossa;
• the size of the middle between the two protruding sections of the chest;
• the middle of the distance between the common details and the vertical decorative and structural lines of the selected image.

Then, while modeling the product, draw a transverse line on the tracing paper corresponding to the constructive marks of the drawn image. Recall that these should include the lines of the chest, hips, shoulder, knees and waist.

And it is with the help of these lines that in the further construction of the model you can create basic grid, determine the depth of the neck for the shelf, the height of the knee, chest and hips. With the grid, you can further match your actual dimensions and dimensions of the image transferred to the tracing paper.

And of course, do not forget to write down all the data in a separate notebook or notepad.

Selecting and creating a basic framework

Modeling a dress involves creating the basic basis of a pattern. We remind you that such a template is created according to measured standards. Accordingly, the more accurate the measurements are, the better the dress will fit and sit on your figure. Therefore, when taking measurements, do the following:

• straighten up, stand up straight;
• take measurements taking into account the tummy (do not pull it in, because in the finished product you will not be able to relax it);
• do not downplay or increase the size of the chest and hips (otherwise you simply cannot wear such an outfit);
• when creating dresses for full ones, take into account the increase in fit (it is better to take these data from the standard increase table);
• Double-check the calculations and measurements several times.

In a word, be careful and do not be lazy to review all your notes. This will save you from possible problems further.

How is the modeling process going?

In order to understand exactly how the modeling process takes place, we present specific example. As a basis, we will take a pattern of a simple dress with a long sleeve. We replace the darts with reliefs, and make the sleeves shorter and add cuffs. A new style of dress with cuffs is ready.

In the second case, we shorten the sleeves again and lower them to the limits of the shoulders and add a yoke over the chest. It turned out a new model of a dress with a yoke and short sleeves. In the third case, you can again work with the sleeves and expose the shoulders, providing for the straps. Here we will add a seam at the waist.

In the fourth option, you can change the neckline to a V-shaped one, and add additional horizontal divisions at the bottom of the dress. New model ready.

How to create a pattern for obese people?

At the next stage, as a rule, a pattern is built. Suppose you are interested in a dress model for full classic 54 sizes. In this case, the increase will be only 3 cm, of which 0.5 cm is an increase to the back (its width), 1.5 cm to the width of the front of the product, and 1 cm to the armhole itself. Next, we take measurements and begin to build a pattern.

Take a pencil and paper. From its top, make a small indent (about 10-15 cm) to the left and mark the point "A". From it, take the vertical to the right and put the point "H", equal to the conditional length of your product. Next, the depth of the armhole is drawn. This is done like this: draw a line from point "A" down (taking into account an allowance of 0.5 cm for a free fit) and put a point "G". Wherein given distance will be equal to 21 + 0.5 \u003d 21.5 cm (where 21 is the actual measurement of the depth of the armhole in a centimeter).

Further, dress modeling involves determining the length of the back of the product (to the very line of your waist). In this case, a distance equal to the measure made earlier is laid off from the starting point. For us, it was 39 cm. We put the “T” point. From the “T” point, we lay down the height of the hips (also according to the measurement you made) and set the “L” point. Then, from the created point, draw a horizontal line to the side. After that, it remains only to determine the width of the back (taking into account the 0.5 cm increase), the size of the armhole, the side line of the product, the shoulder, the neckline, outline the auxiliary points of the armhole and correctly mark the places of the tucks in the resulting figure. Modeling skirts, trousers, shorts and other wardrobe items is done in the same way.

Where can I learn the basics of modeling and design?

The basics of modeling can be learned by studying at highly specialized higher educational institutions cutting, sewing and design. For example, you can contact the Textile Moscow University named after A. N. Kosygin. The faculty of clothing design, and modeling, and design, and applied arts also work here, and practical classes are held using real fabrics from the fund of the State University Museum. The approximate duration of study at this university will be about 5-6 years.

Alternatively, you can enroll at the Moscow University of Design and Technology. Here you can get knowledge on the basics of sewing technology, management and economics, learn the basics of industrial ecology and chemical technology. The full term of study in this state university is 6 years old.

An interesting option is the British Higher School of Design, founded in 2003. It is located in Moscow and allows its students to receive knowledge and a British-style diploma without leaving the Russian Federation. There are such faculties as "Illustration and graphic design”,“ Clothing Design ”, etc. The term of study at this university is 3-5.5 years and depends on the faculty you have chosen and the level of workload.

Is it worth taking a fashion design course?

And finally, it will be much faster and easier to learn how to invent new models of clothes if you sign up for modeling courses. The benefits are obvious. The term of such training is from 1 to 12 months. At the end of the course, you can get a certificate, and sometimes you can immediately find a job.

For example, you can enroll in similar courses at the "School of Arts and Design", the duration of which is only 10 months. Interestingly, after graduation, you will find a real fashion show clothing you have created.

In addition to stationary cutting and sewing courses, you can sign up for virtual ones and take training online. For example, you can do this on Osinka. This is where it takes place distance learning the basics of the technique "Nakolka". The training course consists of 14-16 lessons containing video and photo files.

You can also learn modeling at the Moscow School of Fashion Design, located on Varshavskoye Shosse. Here you will learn how to sew baby clothes, evening dresses, model and design products, you can take a short course in cutting and sewing.

In a word, if you wish, you can learn how to create any clothes, even non-standard sizes. And then the modeling of skirts, blouses, trousers and any other item of clothing will become available to you.

Hello my dear readers! How much beautiful models of dresses! But not always there are ideas in the head - how to put them into practice. I want to bring to your attention some interesting options.

Making a translation chest tuck to the side (see details).

We translate the waist tuck to the side, draw a yoke-belt, raising it to the center of the front of the dress. To the upper corner of the coquette, we make out the desired cutout with a “droplet”.

The original dress is a semi-sun.

We make the transfer of the chest tuck into the assembly on the shoulders (more precisely, we do not transfer the tuck anywhere, but draw up a new front neck line).

We translate the tal tuck to the side (as in the figure with an arrow).

On the back of the bodice, draw a new neckline and armhole so that it fits into the front detail.

We make the transfer of the chest tuck into the armhole (more details -.

We draw the desired division of the bodice into three parts. We form a drapery on these parts.

In the center of the front we make a “droplet” of the desired size.

Dress with a one-piece sleeve and an A-line neckline

We draw a relief from the neck to the side of the bodice. We do the translation of the chest tuck.

We make a small sleeve (10 cm) - lengthen the line of the shoulder.

We draw the neck with a trapezoid.

We make the transfer of the chest tuck on the right into a diagonal undercut, which goes from the corner of the right tuck to the upper edge of the left tuck.

The left tuck is sewn up like a tuck.

We lengthen the shoulder a little - we make a one-piece sleeve.

We make a detail with warehouses on the right and left parts of the skirt with the height of the waist tuck on the skirt. We form a decorative detail with warehouses by diluting to the desired value (marked with scissors in the figure)

We make our base pattern.

We make the transfer of the chest tuck into the neck, but do not close it, but leave it for folds on the neck.

We make an extension at the waist - a straight silhouette.

On the pattern of the back we draw a cut with a long boat.

We complete the sleeve and make a hole in it for the shoulder.

We make the transfer of the left chest tuck to the side of the bodice.

On the right side, we make the transfer of the chest tuck into the armhole of the dress.

On the right side of the dress on the side, we lower 10-15 cm from the waist line. We connect this point with the tuck point at the waist with a flexible line.

We form the side part - between the chest tuck and the curved line that we just drew.

We will frame this part with a shuttlecock. The length of the shuttlecock is equal to the black line in fig. below.

We make the construction of the frill, like the construction of the peplum on this skirt.

We cut a large part of the dress along the chest and waist lines and make a breeding to the desired size to create a drapery.

We make a triangular cutout on the back.

We make the transfer of the chest tuck into relief.

We form a new line of the neck and armholes (we make narrow straps).

On the side parts of the front and on the back of the dress we form a peplum.

We translate the chest tuck into relief and form a square neckline.

Watch another video about modeling such an interesting dress:

Good afternoon! We continue to analyze how the modeling of various interesting models. And today we will talk about the dress. In our online store it is numbered 36. You can sew this dress according to pattern No. 36 from the online store, or you can simulate it yourself, together with us. We will tell you in detail and step by step how :) So, a dress cut off at the waistline. The shoulder is elongated, lowered, which forms the effect of a short one-piece sleeve. On the front of the bodice there is a central seam and a French tuck, which starts from side seam and goes to the center of the chest. On the back of the bodice - waist darts. The skirt of the dress is extended to the bottom. On a forward panel of a skirt - the central seam.
STEP 1. Modeling can be based on basic patterns of a dress with a set-in sleeve of small volume, adjacent silhouette, pattern No. 125, which you can also print in our online store. Before printing base patterns take measurements correctly and choose the right standard size. Instructions for printing and assembling patterns also located on our website.
STEP 2. We make a descent of the waist line on the details of the front. This is necessary so that the balance is not disturbed and the cutting line of the waist does not rise up on the details of the front.
STEP 3. 1. Cut the details of the front and back along the waistline. 2. On the details of the back, we get rid of the shoulder tuck. We connect the highest and end points of the shoulder seam with a straight line. In the area of ​​​​the end shoulder point, we shorten the width of the shoulder by the size of the tuck solution. We draw up a new armhole line for the back detail. 3. On the details of the front, we combine the centers of the chest and waist darts. This is necessary for the subsequent transfer of tucks to another position.
STEP 4. 1. On the part of the front, draw a new position for the tuck. We translate the chest and waist tucks into the desired position. 2. We close the waist tucks on the details of the back and front panels 3. On the details of the front and back panels, add an extension to the bottom along the side seam. 4. We make out the bottom line on the details of the front and rear panels.
STEP 5. 1. In the area of ​​​​the final shoulder seam, we raise the shoulder line by 0.7-1 cm. draw up a new shoulder line. 2. We draw the line of the sleeve from the end shoulder point. The slope should not be strong. 3. Determine the length of the one-piece sleeve. 4. We make out the line of the bottom of the one-piece sleeve, which smoothly goes into the armhole of the back and front. 5. On the details of the front and back panels, in the area of ​​​​the side seam, we determine the entrance to the pocket. We construct a pocket burlap in the seam on the front and back panels
STEP 6. With the help of an auxiliary pattern, we draw the line of the shoulder with a rounded line.
STEP 7. 1. We check the clear pairing of all the necessary sections of the parts. 2. We sign all the details. 3. Draw the line N.O. (warp thread) on the part.
READY! The modeled pattern is ready! In our blog you will also find

This page contains examples and detailed description how to create some models of the dress by changing the darts of the bodice and building different shaped lines. If you wish, you can experiment and model a variety of options for blouses and dresses.

The model of a fitted dress is taken as a basis, however, the techniques described here can be applied to other styles of dresses.
Let's take a closer look at several sketches of models and options with various changes in the direction of the chest tuck.

The location of the new point (the beginning of a new tuck) is where the side cut intersects with the waist line, forming an angle. According to the sketch of the model, we put a point and connect it to the lower corner of the chest tuck (G8).
We cut the pattern along the line obtained and open it, with this change the initial tucks are closed (along the waist line and chest). We fix the changes, as shown in the figure. The pattern is ready to be laid out on the fabric.

On the main pattern of the bodice, we connect the corner of the tail tuck with (G8). Cut as shown in the picture. We close the top tuck, and open the bottom to the end. What happened in the process of changing the pattern, we fasten the final result with pins.

To begin with, we divide in half, and it can also be divided into three parts, it depends on the style. We put a point, this is the beginning of a new tuck, draw a line to G8. Cut and close as shown in the picture.

It should be borne in mind that modifying the pattern to create a new tuck, which will originate from side cut, you should not bring it to the point (G8) by 1.5 - 2 cm.

The cut of the armhole, depending on the style, is divided into three parts or in half, we connect the division point with (G8). We cut it according to the added changes, see the picture for further actions.

We divide the curved line of the armhole into three parts or in half; when making the relief, we connect the dividing point with a smooth relief curve with (G8). Then we cut the pattern along the planned smooth curve and close the chest solution of the tuck as in the figure.

6. Transfer of the chest tuck to the cut of the armhole with a relief in the form of an angle.

For this product, the pattern changes similarly to the previous one, only we draw the relief with a straight line up to G8 and lower it to the bottom to the tackle tuck. It should form an angle. We close the upper chest tuck and fix it with a pin. After that, a new tuck is formed.

Depending on the style of the product, the shoulder section is divided into two or three equal parts. We put a point, we build a straight line from it and connect it with the tackle tuck, cut and close the chest tuck.

8. Transfer of the chest tuck to the shoulder section with the design of a direct relief.

Depending on the sketch of the product model shoulder line divide into two or three equal parts. We put a point, from it we build a relief line to the tackle tuck, along which we cut it. We close the chest tuck.

9. Transfer of the chest tuck to the cut of the neckline, thus forming soft gathers.

On the pattern, we divide the neck line into 1/2 or 1/3 parts, respectively, of the model. We connect the division point with (Г8). We cut and transfer the connection line. See the figure for how to do this correctly.

On the main drawing of the pattern in the middle of the front panel of the bodice from the point (G8), we build a perpendicular line to the middle of the front. Cut along the resulting line, transfer the chest tuck, opening the cut. What happened in the process of change, we fix, as shown in the picture. We drape this tuck (that is, we collect and formalize the assemblies).

The following model is similar to the previous one with minor changes. First, we change the pattern as shown and described in the previous product.

Further, in order for the product to be better assembled into assemblies along the entire middle seam, it is necessary to cut the traveling tuck up to point G8. We close the chest and tail tucks and transfer them, we drape their newly formed solution. We fix the result.

The front panel of the product consists of two halves (right and left).

11. Transferring the chest tuck to the cut of the armhole (undercut), while forming small gathers.

For example, here are two different options bodice style, which can be obtained with a similar modification of the position of the tuck on the pattern.

We divide the armhole in half or into three equal parts. From the division point to the chest tuck at a right angle, draw a line along which we make a cut.
We fix a part of the top, as well as a tackle tuck (for example, we cut it off with pins). From the remaining unfixed part of the tuck solution, we form assemblies.

This model differs from the previous one only in the tuck, it does not need to be fixed and closed on the bodice pattern.

These products are similar to description 11, with the only difference that instead of undercuts on the bodice, we cut the upper part of the bodice completely and get a cape, as shown in the figure.