All measurements of the circumference and back width are taken completely. and written in half size. all length measurements are taken and recorded in full.

OSH- measured at the base of the neck, OG- This measure determines the size of the figure. the centimeter tape should pass at the level of the armpits, along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest points mammary glands. FROM- measured at the narrowest point of the figure. ABOUT= measured around the figure horizontally, behind the high points of the buttocks, in front along the bulges of the abdomen. Shsp- measured from the articulation of one arm with the body to the other horizontally along the shoulder blades. chipboard- from the seventh cervical vertebra to the lace at the waist. For publisher from the seventh cervical vertebra down, holding the sant. tape at the waist to the desired length of the product. For pl- from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. For hands- from the shoulder joint through the elbow to the hand, while the arm is slightly bent. Circum hands- around the arm at the armpit, the measurement is recorded in full. Bypass zap at the base of the hand, the measurement is recorded in full. High T chest measured from the highest point of the shoulder seam to the protruding point of the chest. Length Yu from drawstring to waist down side to desired length.

Measurements: OSH=18 OG=48 FROM=38 ABOUT=52 For pl=13 For hands=58 Circum hands=31 Bypass zap=18 Sh.S.=18

Blouse drawing description

grid

1. Mid-back line and neckline Two lines are drawn at right angles - horizontal and vertical

2. From the line of the middle of the back to the right, OG + 4 is measured along the line of the neck. A vertical line is drawn down from the obtained point.

3. chest line From the line of the neck down along the line of the middle of the back, OG / 3 + 3 is measured and a horizontal line is drawn through the resulting point.

4. Waistline From the line of the neck down along the line of the middle of the back, the length of the back is measured according to the measure. The resulting point is connected by a horizontal line with the middle of the front.

5. hip line. From the waist line down along the line of the middle of the back, 1/2 of the length of the back is measured according to the measurement and a horizontal line is drawn through the resulting point.

6.Back width line. To the right of the middle of the back, the width of the back is measured along the chest line according to the measure of +0.5. A vertical line is drawn from the given point. line to neckline

7. Armhole Width From the back width line to the right along the chest line OG / 4

8. armhole protrusion. From the armhole width point, a vertical line OG / 8 is drawn upwards.

9. Side seam line The width of the armhole along the chest line is divided in half. From the obtained point, 2 cm is deposited to the left and a dotted line is drawn down to the hip line.

1) From the line of the middle of the back to the right along the line of the neck, measure OSH / 3 + 0.5 - the width of the sprout. From the obtained point, a line 2.5 cm long is drawn up - the height of the sprout. From the height point of the sprout, a concave line is drawn to the point of intersection of the neck line with the line of the middle of the back. It turns out sprout line.

2) From the neck line down along the back width line, measure 1.5 cm for normal shoulders (0.5-1 cm for straight, 2-3 cm for sloping). This is the point of inclination of the back shoulder. From the upper point of the height of the sprout through the point of inclination of the shoulder of the back, a straight inclined line is drawn with a length equal to the length of the shoulder according to the measure + 1.5 cm (1.5 cm is given for landing or for tuck) we get back shoulder line

3) Dividing in half the segment located between the points of inclination of the shoulder and the line of the chest. From the line of the width of the back to the right along the line of the chest to the right lay 1.5 cm (for large sizes 2cm). From the point of the middle of the width of the armhole down 2 cm (depth of the armhole) and through the received points we draw back armhole line

4) From the place of the side seam to the left along the waist line we measure 2 cm, and to the right, along the hip line - 1/2 of the difference OB_OG. Then, from the point of intersection of the armhole line and the line of the side seam, we draw side seam line backs.

5) Down, from the line of the hips along the line of the middle of the back, we measure 1 cm and the resulting point is connected to the line of the side seam of the back with a slightly concave downward line - bottom alignment line.

1) From the line of the protrusion of the armhole to the right along the chest line OG / 8 - an auxiliary point for determining the depth of the tuck from the obtained point upwards draw a vertical line with a length of OG / 2-0.5 - an auxiliary line for tuck depth determination

2) from the line of the neck down along the line of the width of the back measure OG / 8 the point of inclination of the shoulder of the front. The upper point of the auxiliary line is connected to the point of inclination of the shoulder in front of a straight inclined line and the length of the shoulder is measured along it from the auxiliary line according to the measurement - front shoulder line

3) From the end of the shoulder to the protrusion of the armhole, draw a dotted line and measure 0.5 cm perpendicularly to the right. From the line of the protrusion of the armhole along the line of the chest to the left, 1.5 cm and h / o auxiliary points are measured from the end of the shoulder and the point of the protrusion of the armhole, a concave line is drawn to the point of the depth of the armhole. This armhole front line. From the end of the shoulder down the armhole, measure 1 cm and the resulting point is connected to the upper point by an auxiliary line - the bevel of the shoulder.

5) to the right of the line of the side seam along the waist line 2 cm. to the left along the line of the hips 1/2 (OB=OG). From the point of intersection of the armhole line with the line of the side seam, side seam line.

6) On the line of the middle of the front, 2 cm are laid down along the line of the hips. Spend line of alignment of the bottom of the front.

7) From the line of the middle of the front to the left along the line of the chest, OCR = OSH / 3 + 0.5 is measured. From the obtained point, a vertical line is drawn up - OG / 2 - the height of the neck. Through the upper point of this line, draw a horizontal line to the right to the middle of the front. From the point of intersection of this line and the middle of the front, we set aside OSH / 3 + 1.5 cm - the depth of the neck. This point is connected by a dotted line with the point of the height of the neck and 2 cm are laid to the left from its middle. The resulting points are connected by a smooth line - golovina line

8) From the line of the protrusion of the armhole to the right along the chest line 2 cm and the distance from the obtained point to the middle of the front is divided in half. The resulting point is the high point of the chest. From the top point of the auxiliary line along the line of the shoulder to the left, measure 4-5 cm (1/3 of the length of the shoulder) and put a point. From the top point of the neck height to the left in a straight line measure the same distance (4-5 cm). We connect the obtained points with straight lines with a high point of the chest - we get the contour of the tuck. We measure the left side of the tuck and set aside from the WTG up the right side of the tuck. We connect the alignment point with the upper point of the neck height - get tuck alignment line.

	Name	Style	Drawing
	English style blouse		Cut the pattern of the back and shelves along the contour of the drawing at the place where the parts transition to each other, cut with cloves. The back is covered on the fold of the fabric on the tuck pattern cut. On the pattern of the shelf, the chest tuck is transferred to the side seam: we make an undercut from the side seam to the VTG and close the tuck. The tuck is cut out on the pattern. To process the fastener, cut out the collar.
			Croy English style blouses
	Name	Style	Drawing
	Gathered blouse with a one-piece placket	Cut the pattern of the back and shelves along the contour of the drawing along the applied shaped lines. The yoke of the back is cut to the fold of the fabric. the back from the fold of the fabric is moved 3-5 cm for assembly. The front yoke is cut with closed tuck. The lower part of the chest tuck on the shelf is saved for assembly. To process the fastener, you can cut out the chin. If the fastener is made on the strap, then add 1/2 of the width of the strap to the fastener, add the width of the strap +1 cm to the processing of the strap
			Croy blouses with gathered yokes and one-piece placket
	Name	Style	Drawing
	Blouse with oval yoke	Cut along the contour along the marked lines. The placket is cut with an allowance for the processing of a fastener with a placket. The yoke of the shelf is cut with the chest tuck closed. The lower part of the chest tuck is saved for assembly. The yoke of the back and the back are cut to the fold of the fabric. The back and shelf are cut and moved apart for an additional assembly) 2-4).
			Croy blouses on an oval yoke

Open blouses

We cut the pattern along the contour of the drawing, at the place of the darts, along the side seam. At the point of transition to each other along the side seam, they are cut with cloves. The pickguard is cut off with a cutter onto another paper. The back is cut to the fold of the fabric. On the seam when cutting, we leave at the gate line 1-1.5 cm, side seam 2-3 cm, bottom line 3-5 cm.

At the shelf at the side line 1-1.5 cm, neckline 1.5 cm, shoulder 2 cm, armhole 2.5 cm, along the bottom line 3-5 cm side seam 2-3 cm.

Sleeve: edge 1.5 cm, side seam 2 cm, bottom of the sleeve 1.5-2 cm. The high point of the edge on the material is transferred with a colored thread. sew the wedge to the bottom of the sleeve. the collar and cuffs are cut on the fold of the fabric of the transverse thread. With the exception of striped materials, we leave 1.5 cm for the seam. The brace is cut with a bead line along the shared thread. we leave 1.5 cm for the seam. The snares are laid along the contour of the pattern, at the place of the tucks, along the shaped lines, along the waist line and along the mid-front line.

Preparing for fitting

When basting on the hands, the upper fabric is seated, and when sewing on the machine, the lower fabric. Darts are sewn from top to bottom and ironed into stitching. Shaped darts are ironed towards the side seam. the waist tucks of the back and front are ironed to the middle of the back and the middle of the front.

Shoulder seams are basted along the back and sewn down the front. The side seams are basted along the front and sewn down the back. before the line it is necessary to pull out the snares. side, shoulder seams are sealed with a flannel seam. the board is swept along the collar, and it is ground down along the blouse. The chin rest at a distance of 20 cm sits 1 cm from top to bottom.

Collars, cuffs, grind on the lower half. The line of the brace is hemmed with a flannel seam. The bottom of the blouse is hemmed with a hidden seam. The collar is swept to the neck of the blouse, combining the middle of the neck with the middle of the collar. And the depth of the neck on a blouse with a dot 2 on the collar. On the other hand, a collar is swept up to the collar. Everything is sewn together by car.

Rules for sewing sleeves to a blouse

The high point of the collar of the sleeve is strengthened to the shoulder seam, the armhole of the product is divided in half from the side seam. The side seam of the sleeve is attached to the point obtained. The fit is distributed along the rib of the sleeve and it is advisable to iron the top. before sewing, chop off the left and right parts of the product.

Rules for sewing cuffs

The sleeve from the side seam is folded into a fold and 4 cm is measured from the fold to the bottom of the sleeve. We make a notch. From it we measure 3 cm, we make the 2nd notch. From notch to notch, the sleeve is assembled on a thread. A cuff is sewn to the finished, assembled seam.

The place of the loops on the blouse

We retreat 1.5 cm from the edge of the bead. Down 1/2 the diameter of the button and a loop is cut across the diameter of the button, 1 button at the neck, one on the chest line and at the waist. The distance is divided in half - such a distance between the buttons is not less than and not more than 8 cm. Remarks. Sweep and cut only on the table. Check checkpoints. Make silks with two seams. The line of snares remains in the middle. back assembly with a yoke is better from the middle to the edge. Always silk the middle of the front. Iron the stitched product. When marking, check the coincidence of the waist lines, which must also be requested. If the material is thick, then the yoke can be folded along the seam line before sewing. Next, baste the yoke and check whether the board is located in a straight line or not; if not, then you need to lower the yoke, mark the sewing line with pins and assemble the blouse again by 2 threads. If the back is loose, then sew the shoulder seam 1 mm lower and vice versa. It is better to lay snares with a darn or 60 in 2 threads. It is better to sew with the 50th number.

STAND COLLAR PROCESSING

The collar is cut out double, with a seam allowance of 1 cm. Using this pattern, you can cut out a lining for the collar from a denser fabric (fleeceline). Attach the lining to the wrong side of the upper collar and bast it on four sides. Place the upper collar with the right side on the front side of the lower one and apply a basting at a distance of 2 cm from the cuts. Place a basting along the line of the rack 1 cm from the cuts. Then baste the upper collar again, slightly fitting the snares. Lay the basting with small stitches. Lay a machine line on it. Make notches from the side of the seam to the machine line. Cut the lining from the side of the seam to the machine line. Trim the seam, cut off the corners, turn the collar right side out. Along the line of the rack, the seam should be at the fold. Along the departure line, the seam should go towards the lower collar by 2 mm. Lay out the basting and iron the collar. then put the collar on the table, carefully straighten the lower part of the collar carefully, cut 0.4 cm along with the gasket. attach the middle of the collar to the middle of the back of its lower part together with the lining. Attach the edges of the collar to the fastener line. tuck the collar into the neck along the seam allowance. Then sew machine stitch. Cut the gasket from the seam side to the machine line. fold the seam towards the collar. Fold the top collar over the seam allowance. Baste to the neck and hem so that the stitches are invisible and the machine stitch is not visible. Iron everything. Stitch the side and collar. The collar can be sewn between the upper and lower sides (English).

Removal of measures OK. Building the basis of a blouse pattern. Styles, drawing and cut of blouses

	Name	Styles, description		Cutting drawing
	Striped blouse fabrics with soft folds below the line chest		Striped blouse, the chest tuck is transferred to the middle of the front into soft folds The upper part of the front is cut out to the fold of the fabric in the shared arrangement of the strips on the lower part of the front. The stripes form a herringbone
	Striped blouse fabrics with whole grain bar		Blouse in striped fabric - the chest tuck is transferred to the soft pleats at the placket. Laying a fold-tuck under the bar, grind the inner cut of the bar. Treat the board with a pickguard
	elongated	Tape to the plank. On to lay soft folds. make the greatest number of folds on the turns. the end of the frill is bent to the wrong side of the strip by 2 cm. front side a 2-3 cm inlay is applied to the bar. In finished form, a bow made from a rulik is sewn onto the bar
	oval forms
	coquilla		The mold is cut out on the fold of the fabric without allowances for the seams. external seams are treated with a twist or lace. folds are laid one on top of the other on the right and left sides separately, directing them with folds to the middle, fastening from the inside manually (this is for an elongated jabot)
	Figaro
	Whole- tailored blouse with one-piece cut short sleeves

	Name	Styles, description		Cutting drawing
	Blouse with flounces	we spread the front pattern along the line of sewing the shuttlecock on the fabric by twice the width of the seam. Shuttlecocks are cut out. The length of the flounce is equal to the length of the sewing line Ch15 cm for assembly. Shoulder load the tuck is transferred to the side seam Sewing- process the cut of the shuttlecock with a twist by machine or manually. the frill sewing line is assembled for assembly, the frill with the blouse is grinded from the inside. The subplank is hemmed with a hidden seam.
	Blouse with undercut at the neck with lobar, transverse folds-tucks.		We cut the pattern along the sewing line of the strap, along the undercut line, and cut out the lower part of the chest tuck. Close the top. In the middle of the front, add 2-8 cm to the folds to the main part of the shelf. Sewing: stitch out folds-tucks. chest tuck sew under the last fold. Stitch the plank.
				The tuck is sewn under the last fold _____Similarly, the rest of the tuck is under the chest The undercut is assembled, insured Pleats, stitched strap
	Blouse with oblique frills	Close the chest tuck at the shoulder line or lead to the waist line. Lines for stitching lace or frills are applied on the bodice pattern. the distance between the lines is made equal to the width of the lace or frill - 1 cm. One-piece sleeve, short
	Blouse with oblique folds - tucks	Transfer shoulder chest tuck to the waist line. On the pattern, apply a control line, which should determine the direction of the shared thread for the folds. When cutting the shelves, fold the fabric right side inward. Around leave from 3-5 cm for folds-tucks. Sewing. Sew along the folds along the shared thread on both shelves. The folds are sewn on the left shelf from top to bottom, and on the right one - from the bottom up. The tuck at the waist is not sewn, but remains free or gathered under the elastic.
	Blouse from silk fabrics with a small form-fitting peplum	Blouse made of silk fabric, the clasp is shifted to the left, asymmetry is emphasized by a group of folds-tucks on the left front. Collar - slanting collar. - we translate the chest tuck to the waist line. The pattern is superimposed on the wrong side of the material. Sewing: stitch the folds along the left shelf. A sleeve set-in, with the underestimated armhole.

	Name	Styles, description		DrawingCutting
1	Blouse with a one-piece cut sleeve on a yoke
	Vest

BLOUSE WITH SHAPED SHUT-DOWN COLLAR AND PLUGS
(size 48)

On fig. 1 shows a blouse with a turn-down collar, tucks and short sleeve

Before cutting out the blouse, you need to cut off the length of the front and stitch 0.5 cm tucks at intervals.
The number of tucks should be equal to the distance of the end of the collar, i.e. 7 cm. Before the first tuck, they retreat 4 cm from the middle of the front. In order for the tucks to be even and not skewed, it is necessary to pull the thread from the warp in place of the first tuck. Then scribble along the trail, and the remaining tucks will be equal to the first.
The neckline is cut along the collar. The processing of the collar is indicated in the description of the straight dress, and the sleeves are indicated in the description of the blouse. After the tucks are stitched, a pattern is applied and the outline of the blouse is outlined. Cut out a blouse according to the pattern of the previous blouse.
Drawing lines of tucks and building a collar for a blouse are shown in fig. 2.
A drawing of a collar pattern for a blouse without a fastener, through the head, is built according to the following calculations:


A blouse with a turn-down free blouse collar is sewn according to the rule of a free blouse.

FORM OF DRAWING BLOUSES WITH MIXING CONSTRUCTION POINTS

In order to avoid omissions in garments, it is necessary after checking what kind of physique the human figure has.
On fig. 3 shows how, with the same size, but with a different physique, the position of the points and the direction of the lines change.
A bold solid line shows the lines of a normally folded human figure; a thin solid line is used for a stooped figure in the drawing. It can be seen that the depth of the armhole decreases, therefore, the length to the waist of the back in measurements for stooped also decreases. The width of the back increases, the shoulder lengthens. Neck position moves lower, width chest decreases due to the width of the back.
For a folded figure, the movement changes in the reverse order (in the drawing - a dotted line): the height of the sprout of the back decreases, the depth of the armhole increases, the width of the back becomes narrower, and the tight cage is wider, the waist is shorter, the front shoulder is higher than normal. All movement of construction points and lines is within the range of 1 to 1.5 cm from the normally folded figure.

BODY WITH A SINGLE-CUT SHORT SLEEVE AND A DRAW ON THE SHOULDER LINE
(size 48)

On fig. 198 shows a model of a bodice with a one-piece short sleeve and a tuck from the shoulder. Stand-up collar forming a bow at the ends. For the collar, they take an oblique strip of fabric 12-14 cm wide, 108 cm long (neck circumference 36 cm plus 72 cm for the bow). For a bodice it is good to use a skirt with a fan pleat in the middle of the front (the skirt is given in Fig. 250).
To build a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece short sleeve, you must take the following measurements (in cm):

neck circumference (ОШi)—18
chest circumference (OG) -48
waist circumference (OT) - 38
back width (SHS)—18
waist length (DT) - 39
sleeve length with shoulder (DR)—2O
front waist length (DPT) - 52

The construction of a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece short sleeve and a tuck from the shoulder is made according to the following calculations:

Back construction:

BODY WITH RUSSIAN ARMHOLE
(size 48)

On the basis of an ordinary bodice with a tuck in the shoulder, we apply an expanded armhole with a one-piece gusset.
To the middle of the front we add 3 cm for the fastener (see dotted line). The side along the line of the front tucks is detachable and stitched into a small fold. Folds are scribbled on the base, ironed. A barrel pattern is applied to the stitched material so that a Christmas tree is obtained (see cutting baby dress, section 4). The skirt is straight, with an inverted pleat in the middle of the front and pockets. Collar - shawl (lower and upper collar).
To build a drawing of a bodice with a Russian armhole, you need to take the following measurements (in cm):
neck circumference (OSh) - 18
chest circumference (OG) - 48
waist circumference (OT)—38
waist length (LT)—39
sleeve length (LR)—52
back width (SHS)—18
The construction of a drawing of a bodice with a Russian armhole is carried out according to the following calculated data:
Building a back with a gusset:
We build a right angle with a vertex at point A.

We connect point O with points A1 and B1, divide each side into three parts and put points O1, O2, O4, O5.

Check out the sleeves at the points B1, O2, O3, O, O6, O5, A1.

BODY WITH A ONE SHORT SLEEVE WITHOUT A GROINT, WITH A BREAST DARK
(size 48)

On fig. 3 shows a model of a bodice with a one-piece short sleeve without a gusset. The front tuck on the bodice is under the bust. Before cutting, small folds-tucks are sewn on the chest line. In the middle of the front, there is a false bow 6 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the blouse. The collar is given to hell. 219. for this bodice, you can apply a skirt narrowed down.
To build a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve, you must take the following measurements (in cm):
neck circumference (OSh) - 18
chest circumference (OG) - 48
waist circumference (OT)—38
length to waist (DT)—39
sleeve length (DR)—26
Table for constructing a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve without a gusset, size 48
Back construction:
We build a right angle with a vertex at point A.

We connect the points P3, G1 with an auxiliary line and set aside the length of the sleeve through the points P1, P3.

A1, G connect the auxiliary, divide it in half and put a point r1, from the point r1 we make a recess.
r1go==1.5 cm T1T2=2 cm GO=1/2 GG2 TT3=GO
About mo=4cm
m1m=3 cm from the point T3 in both directions by 1.5 cm
Back contour points: A, P1, x2, PZ, A1 , go, g, T2, m1, m, T, G, A.

Building the front:


From the point G1 at a right angle to the line v1 T4, set aside 1/4 OG-2 (48: 4 - 2 \u003d 10 cm) and set the point G5.
T4m2=G1G5-2 (10-2=8 cm). (The segment T4m2 is laid at a right angle to the line B1 T4).
We connect G5 and m2.
From the point G5 we lower the perpendicular equal to G5m2, and put the point ‚m3. This is a tuck, the width of which is 1/2 of the difference between the OG and OT + 3 cm = 8 cm.
Front contour points: Pb, v1, G1, T4, m2, m3, T5 , r2, r4, P7, P5, n, x4, P6
The dotted line shows the short sleeve.

UKRAINIAN FORM RAGLAN BODY WITH DRAW UNDER THE BREAST
(size 48)

Figure 1 shows a model of a Ukrainian raglan bodice with a tuck under the bust. The blouse has a narrow long sleeve. A straight skirt goes to the bodice, folded at the waist with soft folds in the form indicated for the girl in the description of the sailor suit.
to build a drawing of a Ukrainian-shaped bodice, you need to take the following measurements (in cm):
neck circumference (OSh) - 18
chest circumference (OG)—48
waist circumference (OT)—38
length to waist (DT)—39

sleeve length with shoulder (DR)—78
The construction of a drawing of a raglan bodice of the Ukrainian form is carried out according to the following calculations:
Back construction:
We build a right angle with a vertex at point A.

We connect the points Ro and G and at the intersection with the back width line we set P4.

Connecting dots with an arc G, R5, P4, RZ, Ro.

Front contour points: P8, V1, G1, T5, Tb, T7, T8, g, go, g5, P10, P8.
Front sleeve construction
We connect points P7, Pb, G2
We connect points A1, G2 and continue the line down, giving direction to the sleeve.

The figures indicated without calculation are constant for all sizes.

RAGLAN BODY WITH SHOULDER DRAW
(size 48)

On fig. 3 shows a model of a raglan bodice with a tuck from the shoulder. Dress with long, wide sleeves, which can be tucked at the bottom in the form of a cuff. There is a fastener in front, for which you need to add 3 cm to the middle of the front. A flared skirt with two wedges in front. To draw a raglan bodice with a shoulder tuck, you need to take the following measurements (in cm):
Neck circumference (OSh)-18
Chest Circumference (OH) 48
Waist Circumference (OT)—38
Waist length (WL)—W9
Front waist length (LPT)—52
Sleeve length with shoulder (LR)—78
Back width (SHS)—18
Table for constructing a drawing of a raglan bodice with a tuck from the shoulder (size 48)
Back construction:
We build a right angle with a vertex at point A.

Front contour points: v3, v, G1, T5, T6, T7, T8, g, go, G 5, P10, G5, v8, v3.
Sleeve contour points: P7, v7, P10, g5, x2, x, L1, LZ, L, G2, Pb, n, P8, P7.

COMBINED BODY
(size 48)

On fig. 1 shows a model of a combined bodice. On the front of the bodice there is a raglan sleeve that enters the neckline; back with one-piece sleeves.
To build a drawing of a combined bodice, you must take the following measurements (in cm):
neck circumference (OSh) - 18
chest circumference (OG) 48
waist circumference (OT)—38
back width (ШС) — 18
waist length (DT) - 39
front waist length.
(DPT)—52
sleeve length with shoulder (DR) -78

Table for constructing a drawing of a combined bodice (size 48)
Back construction:
We build a right angle with a vertex at point A.

Sleeve contour points: P7, P8, P10, G 5, x1, x, L2, L4, L, Pb, n, P7.
Building the front:
in 1, G1 we connect and continue down arbitrarily.
P7 T2 \u003d DPT - API (52 -7 \u003d 45 cm)
G1 G6 \u003d 1/4 OG -2 (48: 4 -2 \u003d 10 cm) at right angles to the line v1 T2.

T2m4=G1Gb-2(10-2=8 cm) at a right angle to line v1 T2.
m4m5=1/2 difference between OH&OT+3=8 cm.
GBm4=GB m5
T1 T3 \u003d 2 cm
G2 G 4=2 cm
G 4 G 2=6 cm
g3 gb=2 cm

Shelf contour points:
P8, v1, G1, T2, m4, m5, T3, G 4, G 2, d6, r5, P10, P8.

BODY WITH A ONE SHORT SLEEVE,
EDUCATED UNDERCUT
(size 48)

On fig. 3 shows a model of a bodice with a one-piece short sleeve formed by an undercut. There is a clasp in the middle of the front of the bodice, on which it is necessary to add 3 cm to the middle. A 6 cm wide, length equal to the neckline, ending with a cape, is sewn along the neck. The upper collar is cut according to this shape. Straight skirt with patch tabs.
To build a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece short sleeve, you must take the following measurements (in cm):
neck circumference (OSh) - 18
chest circumference (OG) - 48
waist circumference (OT) - 38
waist length (DT)—39
sleeve length (DR) - 37
front waist length (DPT)—52
back width (SHS)—18

Table for constructing a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece short
undercut sleeve (size 48)
Back construction:
We build a right angle with a vertex at point A.


We connect points P1, P3 and direct the line to point G1

Back contour points: A, P1, x2, P2, P4, G 2, G 1, G, T1, m3, m2, T, G, A.

Building the front

P1n=1.5 cm
P1P5=1/8 OG=48:8=b cm
P5 P6=1/8 OG=6 cm
P6 P7 \u003d R1 P3 - 1 (15 - 1 \u003d 14 cm) through the point n
We continue the line P6 P7 down to the length of the sleeve according to the measure
P7L=R1P4-1 (37-1=36 cm)
P7 a=5 cm
P7 a1=1/2 a P7
a1a2=0.5 cm
P7v=3.5 cm
vV=1/3 OSH+3.5 (18::3+3.5=9.5 cm)
Вв1=1.5 cm
Building the front:
. To build a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve, you need to take the following measurements (in si):
neck circumference (OSh) - 18 chest circumference (OG) - 48 talin circumference (OT - 38 length to the waist (LT) - 39 sleeve length with shoulder (DR) - 63 front waist length (LPT) - 52 back width (SHS) -eighteen
Table for constructing a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve and a gusset included in the sleeve

Back construction:
To build a drawing, we build a right angle with a vertex at point A.


G1 G2==AP=18 cm
G2GZ==P P1=12 cm P2 GIZ==2 cm
PP1=1/4 OG (48:4-2= 12 cm) PP2=1 cm

G2 G4 \u003d 1 / G2G3 (12: 2 \u003d 6 cm); (G4 T2 - perpendicular to the waistline)
G1 G5=1/4 OG-2 (48:4-2=10 cm)

We connect the points P1, P3, G5 and continue the line, giving direction to the sleeve.

We connect P5 with point G6 and P3 with G6, giving direction to the sleeve.

Gusset
Connecting the dots G 1, P5 and G 4, P5.
Gusset contour points: P5, G 4, G 2, G 1, P5.
Note. The numbers without calculation are constant for all sizes.

BODY WITH A 3/4 LONG SLEEVES AND A GREASE GOING TO THE SIDE
(size 48)

On fig. 2 shows a dress model with a one-piece sleeve ? length and gusset that runs along the side of the bodice. The shape of the bodice is elongated (see dotted line in Fig. 215). The bodice has a tuck under the bust. Pockets are lined with leaflet. If desired, a line is made along the hips or a cord is passed. The dress has a round neckline. Finishing is an elegant scarf made of light fabric. The skirt is narrowed down, with slits in the sides.
To build a drawing of the bodice, you need to take the following measurements (in cm):
Neck circumference (OSh)—18
Chest circumference (OG) - 48
Waist circumference (OT) - 38
Waist length (WL)—W9
Front waist length (DPT)—52
Sleeve length (DR)—63
Back width (ШС) - 18

Table for constructing a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve and a gusset going to the side, size 48
Back construction:
We build a right angle with a vertex at point A.

Building the front

The long sleeve is shown as a dotted line, P6D1=78-1=77cm.
D1D2 \u003d W cm. Bevel from the elbow line. D2D3=11cm G 5D3= G 2Do-2

Front contour points: P6, V1, G1, T2, T3, M2, T4, T5, G5, G4 (G5, G4-undercut), G5, L1, L3, L, N1, G6, P5, P6
Side

G2 Go=1/2 G2 G3(12:2=6 cm)
Go G4=2 cm up
We connect points r1, r4, r4.
Т5Tb=2 cm
T1T7=2cm

Side contour points: r1, r4, r4, t6, t7.

BODY WITH A SINGLE-CUT SLEEVE UP TO THE ELBOW AND A GUN INCLUDED IN THE SLEEVE
(size 48)

To build a drawing of this bodice, you need to take the following measurements (in cm):
neck circumference (OSh) - 18
chest circumference (OG)—48
waist circumference (OT)—38
length to waist (DT)—39
sleeve length (DR)—40
front waist length (DPT) - 52
back width (SHS)—18

Table for constructing a drawing of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve
and a gusset included in the sleeve
Back construction:
We build a right angle with a vertex at point A.

We connect the points P1, P3, r5 and on this line we measure the length of the sleeve.
P1A1 = 40 cm according to the measurements of the DR.
G2 G= 1 cm (for sleeve length? shown in dotted line: from the point G down 2 cm).
G4 Go \u003d 5 cm.
From point A1 at right angles to the line PZ G5 we draw a line of arbitrary length. points G, Go we connect and at the intersection with an arbitrary line we put a point a.
T1 T2 \u003d 2 CM (we connect the points Go, T2).
Г‚м = 1/2 Г Г2 (18:2 = 9 cm), (from the point m we lower the perpendicular to the waist line).
mmo=6 cm
ТЗ Т4=3 cm (tuck)
Contour points of the back: A, P1, P2, A1, a, Go, g, Go (Go, g - undercut), T2, T3, T4, T, G, A.
Building the front:
P1P4=2cm
П1П5=1/8 OG (48:8=6cm)
П5П6=1/8 OG=6cm
P6P7 \u003d R1P3-1 (14.5-1 \u003d 13.5) through the point P4
P7 h=3.5 cm
vv1 \u003d 1/3 OSH + Z.5 (18: 3 + 3.5 \u003d 9.5 cm)
v1 v2 \u003d 1 cm (P7, v2 connect with a concave line)
We connect points v2, G1 and continue down arbitrarily.
We connect the points Pb, m and on this line we measure the length of the front sleeve. It is equal to the length of the back sleeve minus 1 cm for the fit.
P7 L \u003d R1A1 -1 (40-1 \u003d 39 cm)
G3 r1 \u003d 1 cm (for a sleeve 3/4 long from the point r1, we go down 2 cm and set the point Go. The sleeve is shown by a dotted line).
G1L1 \u003d ha (through the point Go)
LL1=12 cm
T1 T5 \u003d 2 cm (Go, T5 we connect)
P7T6=DPT-AR1(52-7=45cm)
From point T6 at right angles to the line

ADVICE Depending on whether you want to hide a slightly protruding tummy or wide hips, choose the length of the product.
However, both the blouse and the tunic look great on slender girls.

In this master class, we will show you, step by step, how to sew this fashionable blouse without mistakes.

Sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Length from waist: A - 25 cm, B - 45 cm.
YOU WILL NEED:
Blouse A.
Batiste with embroidered dots 2.10 m wide 140 cm for all sizes; interlining G 785 0.50 m wide 90 cm; 2 small buttons; sewing threads.
Tunic B
Fabric with a decoupage effect in a longitudinal stripe 2.30 m wide 150 cm for all sizes.
Butt - see tunic A.
Recommended fabrics: blouse fabrics.
Before opening:
All data is shown in the box on the right with a reduced drawing of the pattern details.
TIP: reshoot parts 2, 4, 6 and 7 twice, this will greatly facilitate the cutting process.

CUT:
Layout plans show the most rational way to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric.
From cambric in embroidered flecks / fabrics with a decoupage effect in a longitudinal strip:
1 Front with fold 1x
2 The middle part of the front yoke with a fold 2x
3 Folded back 1x
4 The middle part of the back yoke with a fold 2x
5 Sleeve 2x
6 Side part of the yoke front 4x
7 Side part of the back yoke 4x
a) 2 slanting inlays for edging sleeve cuts 19 cm long and 3 cm wide, including allowances;
b) 2 cuffs with a length of: size 36 - 24 cm, size 38 - 25 cm, sizes 40, 42 - 26 cm, size 44 - 27 cm and a width of 10 cm, finished 5 cm.
Allowances:
Around the details paper pattern using a ruler and a tailor's chalk, mark the allowances on the fabric.
Blouse A: for the bottom hem - 8 cm, for the remaining seams and along the cuts - 1.5 cm. Cut out the details along these lines.
Tunic B: on all seams and along the cuts - 1.5 cm.
Cut out the details along these lines.
Pad:
See parts and parts of the layout plan, highlighted in gray. Cut out the details from the lining with allowances with the same direction of the shared thread as the details from the fabric. Iron the gasket to the wrong side of the outer parts of the yoke and the outer halves of the cuffs.
Seam lines and markings:
Fold the trim parts overlapped with the gasket right sides / in half with the right side inward. Once again pin the details of the paper pattern.
The contours of the details of the pattern and markings (lines of seams and bottom), except for the arrow of the direction of the shared thread, are transferred to the wrong side of the details of the cut using a gear wheel (cutter) and burda carbon paper (see. detailed instructions on paper packaging). On the front and back, near the lines of the middle of the front / back, on the allowances, make notches with a length of approx. 5 mm. Important: For light or translucent fabrics, do not use colored carbon paper, as the lines may show through on the right side of the fabric. It is best to use white carbon paper and a serrated chisel after trying it on a piece of fabric.

SEWING
When basting and stitching, fold the details of the cut with the front side inward.
Bartack at the beginning and end of each seam.

BLOUSE A, TUNIC B
■ Preparing cut parts for assembly.
Along the upper sections of the front, back and sleeves on both sides of the marked seam lines, lay machine stitches with large stitches, while on the sleeves, the lines start / end at a distance of 5 mm from the marked seam lines for sewing in the sleeves (1).

■ Side seams.
Before putting on the back with the right side to the front side, chop off the side sections. Stitch (2).

Cut the allowances of each seam to a width of 7 mm, overcast together and iron on the back.
■ Sleeve slits.
On each sleeve, make a cut according to the markup. Lay out the edges of the cut in a straight line and stitch to one longitudinal section of the edging trim (a) with the right side to the front side, while at the end of the cut (arrow) - as close as possible to the cut (3).

Iron the seam allowances onto the piping. Iron the other longitudinal section of the inlay on the wrong side so that the distance between the fold and the seam of attaching the oblique inlay is 1.5 cm evenly along the entire length of the inlay (4).

Fold the edging trim in half lengthwise with the wrong side inward and pin over the stitching seam of the trim (5).

On the front side, stitch the edging trim along the stitching seam close to the seam, securing the inner half of the trim. At the upper end of the cut, stitch the trim from the wrong side obliquely, like a tuck. The edging of the anterior edge of the incision (the edge of the incision that lies farthest from side cut sleeves) unscrew to the wrong side, pin to the lower cut of the sleeve. The edging of the rear edge of the incision acts as an allowance for the incision (6).

■ Sleeve seams.
Fold each sleeve lengthwise right side inward. Cut off the sleeves. Stitch. Trim seam allowances to a width of 7 mm, overcast together and iron forward.
■ Cuffs.
Gather the lower section of each sleeve to the length of the cuff, for this, on both sides of the marked seam line, lay machine stitches with large stitches. Firmly holding the lower threads of the gathering stitches, pull the lower cut of the sleeve to the length of the cuff. Tie the threads of the gathering lines. Distribute the assembly evenly. Pin the half of each cuff doubled with a gasket to the lower cut of the sleeve with the front side to the front side, the cuff allowances protrude beyond the edges of the sleeve cut. Stitch. Press the seam allowances onto the cuff. Iron the allowance along the other longitudinal section of the cuff to the wrong side (7).

Fold the cuff lengthwise in half with the front side inward, chop off short sections at the ends of the cuff. Stitch. Cut seam allowances close to the seams, diagonally at the corners (8).

Unscrew cuff. Iron. Pin the inner half of the cuff over the stitching seam. On the front side of the cuff, stitch along the stitching seam close to the seam, securing the inner half.
BLOUSE A:
Sew the other edges of the cuff at a distance of 5 mm.
BLOUSE A, TUNIC B:
On the front end loop the cuffs. Sew a button to the back end of the cuff according to the loop.
■ Stitch in sleeves.
Cleave each sleeve with a cut of the armhole with the right side to the front side, aligning the seam of the sleeve with the side seam of the tunic, control marks 3 and transverse marks 4 on the sleeve and on the front, as well as control marks 5 on the sleeve and on the back. Sew the sleeve from the side of the sleeve (9).

Cut the seam allowances to a width of 7 mm, overcast together and iron on the sleeve from the top to the beginning of the rounding of the armhole.
■ Coquette.
The side parts of the yoke doubled with a gasket before pin to the middle part of the yoke duplicated with a gasket front side to the front side (control mark 6). Pin the side parts of the back yoke duplicated with a gasket to the middle part of the back yoke duplicated with a gasket right side to the front side (control mark 7). Stitch.
Cut the seam allowances to a width of 7 mm and iron on the sides of the coquettes. Put the front yoke on the back yoke right side to the front side, chop off shoulder sections side parts of the yoke front and back (reference mark 8). Stitch. Cut seam allowances to a width of 7 mm and iron on the back yoke. Similarly, perform seams on a yoke not duplicated by a gasket. Put the yoke not duplicated by the gasket on the yoke duplicated by the gasket with the right side to the front side, aligning the seams. Cut off the cuts of the necks. Stitch. Cut the seam allowances close to the seam, make notches (10) on the fillets.

Turn out the yoke. Iron the edge. Sweep open sections of coquettes.
■ Attach yoke.
Chip the lower corner of the front yoke with the line of the middle of the front (control mark 9) with the right side to the front side (the yoke duplicated by the gasket lies below), then the right embossed seam chop off the front coquettes with the seam of sewing the right sleeve into the armhole in front (11).

Chip off the right shoulder seam of the yoke with a transverse mark of the upper cut of the sleeve, chop off the right relief seam of the yoke of the back from the stitching seams of the right sleeve into the armhole of the back, and chop off the lower corner of the yoke of the back with the line of the middle of the back. Firmly holding the lower threads of the gathering stitches, pull the upper sections of the right half of the front, the right sleeve and the right half of the back to the length of the lower section of the right half of the yoke. Tie the threads of the gathering stitches, evenly distribute the assembly. Pin the gathered upper sections of the tunic to the lower section of the yoke and sew from the line of the middle of the front to the line of the middle of the back. Notch the front and back seam allowances along the line of the middle of the front/back close to the last stitches of the seam (12).

Similarly, pin the left half of the yoke to the upper cut of the left half of the tunic and sew. Cut seam allowances to a width of 7 mm, bast together and iron on a yoke.
ONLY FOR BLOUSE A:
■ Bottom hem.
Press the hem allowance on the bottom of the blouse to the wrong side, fold it in half and topstitch.
ONLY FOR TUNIC IN:
■ Bottom hem.
Press the hem allowance on the bottom of the tunic to the wrong side. On the front side, lay a narrow zigzag line along the fold. From the wrong side, carefully cut off the protruding allowance close to the stitches (13).

Model a blouse presented in the photo, we will be with you according to the basic pattern of the shoulder product. If you do not have such a pattern, then you can build it yourself by going to the page -.

After building the back and shelves, transfer the drawing to paper, it should turn out like this:

Modeling blouse pattern

Before modeling a blouse according to the pattern, let's make a description of our model: a blouse with a fitted silhouette, a short sleeve (from a different fabric), a bottom of the product from a different fabric and a curly shape, a shirt collar on a stand, a placket, a yoke, pockets with flaps.

Translation of a tuck into a relief

As shown in the figure, that is, we draw a relief, cut along the relief line and close the tuck.

Change the bottom line, making it a smooth line.

We draw a bar 8 cm wide (cut-off bar).

Yoke

We draw a line on the back at the same level.

We draw a line leading it from the shoulder tuck to the bottom line of the back yoke.

We cut the line coming from the shoulder tuck to the point of intersection with the bottom line of the back yoke.

We cut the bottom line of the back yoke and close the shoulder tuck.

Sleeve

Cut off the upper part of the sleeve, which will be our new sleeve. On it, do not forget to note where the front cut and the direction of the lobar thread.

Collar

The collar consists of two parts - a stand and a collar. The stand is the lower part, the collar is the upper part.

Rack

Before we draw the collar, measure the neckline on the shelf and back with a centimeter tape, let's say 20 cm.

We build a right angle with the vertex of the corner at a point O 20 cm long.

from point O up 3 cm and denote by a dot 1 .

We divide the segment Oh 20 into equal 3 parts.

from point 20 let's build a perpendicular 1.5 cm long and denote it with a dot 2 .

points 2 and connect the first division point with a straight line and draw it with a smooth line as shown in the figure. We got a stitching line into the neck.

We put a point exactly where 20 cm.

From this point we set a perpendicular 3 cm long (rack height) and get the line of the middle of the shelf and denote it with a dot 3 .

points 3 and 1 connect with a straight line and draw a smooth line.

If the bar on the shelf is 3 cm, then along a rounded line, i.e. continuing it by 1.5 cm and get the length of the fastener.

We draw it with a smooth line and immediately draw the location of the loop in the middle of the rack (see Fig.).

Collar

From cut 1, 3 from a point 1 we erect a perpendicular 4 cm long (collar height according to the model). Symmetrically draw the same smooth line obtained from the segment 1, 3 . From a point 3 we make out the shape of the collar (according to the model).

Pocket

Pockets on the model may be different. And we will draw such as shown in the photo.

We draw a rectangle 12 x 14 cm. We make notches where the top of the pocket will fold and draw the bottom of the pocket as shown in the figure.

We draw the flap of the pocket.

We draw a rectangle 12 x 5 cm and draw the line of the bottom of the valve as shown in the figure.

Making the bottom line with another fabric

Let's draw a strip 5 cm wide along the contour of the bottom line. The shelf strip starts from the center of the shelf and ends at the side seam. The back stripe starts from the side seam through the back to the side seam, that is, the strip with a fold where the center of the back passes.

Before laying out the details on the fabric, we will check all the details and mark on them the direction of the shared thread, the name and quantity.

Please note that in the figure, all parts are located in the same direction of the shared thread, except for the collar and stand. Do not forget that the presented drawing is not the layout of patterns on the fabric, but the number of details of our blouse.

MODEL CONSTRUCTION

"If the blouse is slightly unbuttoned,
You can shine with beautiful breasts
And don't waste your money on clothes
And you don't have to paint your eyes."

A blouse is an indispensable item in a woman's wardrobe. In combination with a skirt or trousers, it works wonders, being the main one in this tandem, and setting a certain tone for it. After all, it is she who dictates the character of the ensemble and its style. The choice of the perfect blouse must be approached with all responsibility, whether it be casual or festive option it should match your image, style, suit you in color, cut.

In our article, we will try to figure out how the type of figure can affect the choice of blouse style. And we will analyze the modeling of several models of blouses so that you can sew them yourself. By the way, you can read more about the types of figures in the article.

We are all different women, each of us is unique, you can’t argue with that. But, nevertheless, somehow, we managed to classify ... Classify according to the type of figure. Well, let's trust the professionals and take their research into service, this knowledge will help us decide on the choice of the perfect blouse for ourselves.

Blouse for an hourglass figure

In an attempt to change our body, each of us intuitively strives to bring its outlines closer to the proportions of the "hourglass" type of figure. The owners of these figures are lucky! Ideal female attractiveness. And although, sometimes, they have to fight with excess weight, they are not deprived of male attention ... but, we are now talking about blouses. You should not wear too tight and low-cut models, so as not to look vulgar, everything else is possible. For your type, stylists offer simple solutions, not burdened with rich decor, emphasizing the natural curves of the figure, laconic models. Scents, V-neck, fitted silhouette, simplicity of lines, as well as the severity of the silhouette.

We chose a blouse for the modeling lesson with the simplest cut, very comfortable, comfortable to use, but at the same time, spectacular and bright. Of course this model fit not only for an hourglass figure, but it is her minimalism that will favorably emphasize feminine curves female body. In an ensemble with a pencil skirt, she will look the most advantageous.

blouse model from the site:

The simulation will be carried out on . You can build a foundation using any method, but why complicate it? You can easily generate it on our website. . Just enter your measurements and after payment you will receive a file with the ability to print on any printer. .

First stage. Expand the neck line and deepen on the shelf according to the model.

Next, you need to complete the sleeves according to the kimono principle, see the picture. More sleeves. The width of the sleeve is equal to the girth of the arm plus an increase in freedom. The cuff will have the same length, its width is 4.5-5 cmin finished form.

Now let's add freedom to the pleats along the bottom of the sleeve.

BLOUSE FOR A TRIANGLE TYPE FIGURE.

For women with a triangle (pear) figure, the recommendations are - to draw more attention to the shoulder girdle, thereby balancing the proportions of the figure and bringing its outlines closer to " hourglass". Of course, you have the most feminine forms, you should not be complex because of a slightly heavy bottom. Don't forget - you're on trend! Inimitable sets the tone).

Properly chosen clothes (blouse) will give you confidence. Boat neck, V, neckline, blouses with epaulettes, epaulettes, coquettes, pockets on the chest, stand-up collars in an expanded neckline, turn-down collars... An elongated and, moreover, a contrasting top - no!

For the lesson, we chose a BURBERRY brand blouse. It has folds on the sleeves and a yoke, from which gathers to the chest. And the filling of the okat, and the coquette, and the assembly, all these details visually expand the shoulders, focus attention. By the way, this blouse is very suitable for the figure. rectangle type.

BLOUSE PATTERN WITH YOKE

For modeling, we also need .

Back. Let's translate the shoulder tuck into the armhole line, marking its position with a new line.

Shelf. Temporarily transfer the chest tuck to the side seam.

Let's outline the lines of the coquette. And cut lines for modeling the assembly on the shelf.

Having cut off along the marked lines, we will combine the coquettes of the back and the shelves along the shoulder seam.

We outline the line of the edge of the side, at a distance of 1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the front.

Move the chest tuck from its temporary position to the upper section of the shelf to the assembly location. Correcting, straightening a little, side seams. Mark the fastener loops.

Sleeve. Translation of the elbow tuck down, having previously outlined its new position with a line running from the top of the tuck to the bottom of the sleeve.

Mark and cut along the sleeve width line under the armhole. From the point of the top of the eye, set aside 3.5 cm along the line of the eye of the shelf and make an incision as in the figure.

Move the part along the cut line, but only in the upper part. As shown in the figure, thus forming the depth of the fold. Further description of the sleeve modeling corresponds to the description of the blouse-shirt sleeve, see above.

The collar with a bow is a long rectangle with a fold. Its width is 7 cm without processing allowances. Length at will, but not less than 1m 30 cm, for the possibility of tying.

BLOUSE FOR A RECTANGLE TYPE FIGURE.

For a rectangle-type figure, stylists recommend focusing on the waist, expanding the line of the shoulders and wearing a peplum. By the way, on such a figure, smells and freedom in the waist area look very good. Strictly speaking, you can do everything! After all, this type of figure allows you to model and create completely different images. Please note that on the catwalks of the world there are completely girls with exactly such external data.

BLOUSE PATTERN WITH A V-SHAPED NECK.

For modeling, consider a model of a delicate chiffon blouse, free cut with an original collar.

To model this model of a blouse, we will use. Although if you have big breasts and you can’t do without a tuck, you can take and. All these patterns can be generated on our website, by paying, you will receive a file with the ability to print, on a printer of any format.

Let's start modeling by expanding the neckline by 2.5 cm and deepening it along the shelf by 10-12 cm. Let's also outline the yoke line.

Next, it is necessary to measure a new line of the neckline of the back and shelves and, based on the measurements obtained, draw a collar-coquel, equal to this value along the inner contour. See drawing. Do not forget that in the blouse model it is double!

Now let's start changing the pattern of the sleeve. Here we do not need to do almost anything, but since there is a small assembly along the bottom of the sleeve, then we will check the width of the sleeve along the bottom and, if necessary, increase it by expanding the sleeve. We will process the bottom of the sleeve with the help of an inlay, edging it.

BLOUSE FOR A FIGURE OF THE TYPE OF AN INVERTED TRIANGLE.

Ladies with an inverted triangle figure, in their desire to dress with taste and look attractive, need to choose the tactics of the right accents. As a rule, you have beautiful long legs and toned buttocks. We shift the accents from the shoulders down. We choose blouses in such a way as to shift attention in every possible way to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chest, waist, and hips. Raglan, American armhole, open shoulders, peplum, asymmetry… Experiment!

Blouse with bare shoulders.

Photo source

For modeling we need , which we can easily generate here using our custom measurements. We can easily convert the base pattern into a free blouse by moving the chest tuck down.

At the first stage of modeling, we will correct the length. We will translate the shoulder tuck into the armhole line, breast down, simply cutting along the intended line and opening its shelf visa. Read more about the translation of tucks.

Let's start modeling the sleeve. It is necessary to get rid of the elbow tuck by moving it down.

It remains to outline the raglan line.

Do not forget to measure the length of the neck, you will need this value when processing it with an oblique trim.

BLOUSE ON THE FIGURE "APPLE".

With this type of figure, there is one feature that distinguishes it from others - an undefined waist. And even the lack of a waist. But, this is not at all a reason for frustration. There are a lot of tricks with which you can disguise yourself so that no one will notice this fact. This is, first of all, freedom in the waist area, which will help to provide all sorts of draperies, smells, the Empire style, multi-layered clothes, vertical lines, folds ... By the way, these models of blouses are very fond of the owners of all types of figures, because only they will make you feel comfortable in any situation related to the festive feast. Agree that a long banquet and a tight dress are not compatible things for everyone).

BLOUSE WITH ASYMMETRIC BOTTOM.

For the apple-shaped figure, we chose a blouse with an interestingly designed bottom, the asymmetry and two-layered front will allow us to sew this model from transparent fabrics such as chiffon, thin silk crepe, organza.

We will model again on .

Let's move the chest tuck into the side seam, and the shoulder tuck into the armhole line. Read more about the translation of tucks.

Expand and deepen the neck. After that, you need to outline a cutout on the neck of the shelf. Cut the tuck on the chest by 2 cm in length.

Here's what happened.

To build a collar pattern, you must completely repeat the stitching line into the neck. To do this, we combine the details of the back and front along the shoulder seam and transfer the resulting line to the collar drawing, if necessary, correcting its curvature. See drawing.

We translate the elbow tuck down. We correct the elbow and front sections. Pata is a rectangle 30 cm long, 3-3.5 cm wide when finished.

Finally, I would like to give you advice - sew from natural high-quality fabrics. If possible, do not deny yourself the pleasure, enjoy the gentle touch of silk on the skin. After all, the luxury of silk fabric cannot be replaced by any of the most high-tech synthetics. Let the new blouse become the most beloved and desired in your wardrobe!

The motto of this incredibly feminine blouse with puffed sleeves and a yoke - more volume! And indeed, despite the seemingly large-scale assembly, the model looks very light and feminine, and an infinite number of tails created by soft drapery of the fabric create a gentle airy image. It is most correct to combine a blouse with a strict tight-fitting bottom, and a pencil skirt, just below the knee length, is the perfect combi partner. However, this style can be successfully combined with cropped tight jeans, but at the same time the waist line of the trousers should not be underestimated. The pattern of a blouse with sleeves is modeled very simply!

Modeling start with a blouse shelf. First you need to move the chest tuck to the waist line. In one of our previous lessons, we told you how to do this:. Then continue modeling the shelf.

Cut the pattern of a single-seam sleeve into 2 halves - front and back. Put the front half of the sleeve on the shelf at an angle, aligning the top of the eyelet with the top of the armhole. On the line of the middle of the front from the neckline, lay down the width of the yoke 8-10 cm. Draw the bottom line of the yoke slightly rounded, passing into the sleeve. Lift the shoulder seam up by 1 cm. Mark the intersection point of the front and sleeve with mark 2. Cut off the yoke and continue modeling.

Move the shelf parts apart as shown in Fig. 1, adding volume to the assemblies in a ratio of at least one to two.

Rice. 1. Modeling a blouse shelf (first option)

Advice! To accurately determine the allowance for your fabric, cut a 20cm x 20cm rectangle of fabric, gather it on one side to get the desired amount of gather. Measure the length of the gathered side and calculate the proportion of length per gather.

IMPORTANT! The assembly volume depends on the thickness of the fabric and your preferences and can be increased or decreased.

The length of the blouse in front - to the waist line, on the side - about 50 cm. Connect the points obtained with a smooth arc. Straighten the side seam (Fig. 1).

We offer you another interesting option shelf modeling, in which the lower edge of the blouse will turn out to be even more voluminous, and the gathers along the lower side of the yoke can be reduced (Fig. 1a).

Rice. 1a. The second option for modeling the shelf

Model the backrest pattern in the same way (either according to the first or the second modeling option, Fig. 2 shows the first option). Remove the back yoke from the shelf, flare along the side seam. The length of the blouse in the center of the back is about 65 cm.

Rice. 2. Modeling the back of the blouse

Puff Sleeve Modeling

On the front and back of the sleeve, cut off the yoke along the line of the yoke. Cut the sleeve vertically into several pieces and spread it to the assembly (Fig. 3). Increase the assembly in the same proportion as on the shelf / back.

Rice. 3. Modeling a sleeve to a blouse

How to cut and sew a puff sleeve blouse

Details of the cut of the blouse are shown in fig. four.

Additionally, you need to cut out:

1. 2 rectangular pieces for cuffs 5 cm wide x wrist length + 6 cm (3 cm more freedom and 3 cm closure)
2. 2 oblique facings for sleeve cuts 3 cm wide and 23 cm long (the length of the cut in finished form is 10 cm).

All patterns are given without seam allowances, therefore, when cutting, it is necessary to add allowances of 1.5 cm on all sides of the parts and 2 cm on the bottom of the product.

Rice. 4. Details of the cut of the blouse with sleeves

For watering a blouse, any plain blouse fabric is suitable. Calculate the fabric for the blouse yourself by laying out the details on the table or on the floor.

How to sew a blouse

Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams, overcast the allowances. On the sleeves, do , . Sew the sleeves into the lower parts of the armholes, overcast the allowances. Stitch the coquettes of the front and back along the shoulder seams, overcast the allowances together and iron on the front. Overcast the allowances of the coquettes in the center of the back, fold and stitch. . Gather the product along the upper edge to the length of the yoke and stitch to the yoke. Overcast the allowances and iron on the yoke. Fold in the bottom seam of the blouse and topstitch.

Your charming blouse is ready! Shine in your glory and be happy! Even more new interesting ideas you will find on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati School of Sewing. Subscribe to free lessons and sew fashionable clothes together with us!