The collar is a very important and expressive detail in the design of clothing. It not only gives the product a finished look, but also visually affects the outlines of the face and chin. the shape and length of the neck. The collar must meet the requirements of fashion. shape and proportions of clothes.

Collars are very diverse in shape. They consist, as a rule, of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks, between which there is an inflection line. According to the method of connection with the neckline and the principle of constructing the drawing, collars are divided into two types: collars sewn into the neckline and cut out together with the main part, most often with the front (one-piece). In shape, they are standing (stand height 3.5-4.5 cm), standing-turn-down (stand height 2.5-3.5 cm), semi-standing (stand height about 2 cm), flat-lying (stand height about 0.5 cm ). The collars also differ in the width of the departure, which can vary from 4 to 24 cm.

When constructing a drawing, it must be borne in mind that the straighter the stitching line, the higher the collar stand will be. For each type of face, you can choose your own collar shape. All fluctuations in fashion, as a rule, are accompanied by a change in the forms and types of collars, which are characterized by great diversity. The main factors influencing collar design are:

The method of connecting the collar with the neck of the product (set-in, one-piece, combined);

The shape of the neck line; the degree of fit to the neck (tight, flat-lying, lagging behind the neck);

Fastener type of the product (deaf, open).

When constructing patterns for any collars, the shape of the stitching line into the neck and the height of the stand are of primary importance. The shape of the fly-away collar can be very diverse and depends on the model and the imagination of the author.

The construction of the stand, its dimensions, the configuration of the neck line determine the shape of the collar, the degree of its fit. With a maximum stand height and a straight or convex stitching line into the neck, the collar fits snugly around the neck. With a decrease in the height of the stand and a concave stitching line, the collar lies more hollow. In the absence of a stand, the stitching line coincides with the neck in shape and the collar becomes flat. Collars, as a rule, consist of two parts: an upper collar and a lower one (collar).

According to the method of construction, collars can be divided into three groups:

Set-in to products with a fastener to the top (or to a closed neck); one-piece and set-in for products with an open fastener; set-in and one-piece flat-lying and fancy.

STIT-IN COLLARS TO CLOSED NECK.

Patterns of set-in collars to the neck with a blind fastener are built separately from the pattern of the bodice and the neck of the product. Depending on the configuration of the stitching line, collars can be: stand; standing-turn-down; semi-delayed; apache; flat-lying

Stand-up, turn-down, collars have a lot of varieties and are characterized by the presence of a stand of various heights at the site of stitching into the neck of the back and fading to its ends. In the area corresponding to the neck of the back and the upper third of the neck of the shelf, it is straight or slightly concave, and in the segment of stitching into the rest of the neck it has a convex shape. The amount of curvature (in height along the middle line of the collar) ranges from 1.5 to 4.5 cm. The shape and size of the flying part of the collar and its ends is determined by the model.

1. Stand-up turn-down collar to a mouth with a fastener up to top.

BUT,

middle line - vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. from point BUT on the horizontal side of the corner lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a point BUT 1

A A, \u003d POsh + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d \u003d 18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neck line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.) From the point BUT along the middle line lay 2 - 4 cm and put a point a:

Aa= 2— 4 cm

points a and BUT 1 BUT 1 and // draw down a perpendicular, on which 0.2 cm is laid. Points BUT 1, 0.2, II. 0.5 cm and a connect with a smooth curve.

Flyaway cut. from point a up along the middle line lay 8 - 10 cm - the width of the collar at the back. The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from the point BUT, on the segment a A one ; point accordingly AT and AT 1 .

aB = A 1 AT 1 = 8-10 cm

points AT and IN 1 connect an auxiliary straight line, which is continued to the right by 3-6 cm (the value of the protrusion of the corner).

From the middle of the segment BB 1 restore upward the perpendicular, on which they lay 1 - 1.5 cm. A smooth curve emerging from the point AT at right angles to the cut AB, connect the dots AT, 1-1.5 cm and 3-6 cm dots BUT 1 and 3-6 cm are connected under the ruler.

2. Semi-stand collar to a mouth with a fastener up to top.

Build a right angle with a vertex BUT, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

middle line - vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. from point BUT on the horizontal side of the corner lay a segment equal to the measure of the half-girth of the neck, – the length of the collar stitching line, and put a dot BUT 1 :

AA 1 , = POsh=18 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured from the neckline from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.)

from point BUT lay 5 7 cm along the middle line and put a dot a:

Aa= 5-7 cm

points a and BUT 1 connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is then divided into 3 parts. The division points represent / and //. From the point / restore the perpendicular upwards and lay 0.7 cm on it. From the middle of the segment between the points BUT 1, and // draw down a perpendicular, on which 0.4 cm is laid. Points a, 0.7 cm, //, 0.4 cm and BUT 1 connect with a smooth curve.

Flyaway cut. from point a up along the middle line lay 8-10 cm - the width of the collar at the back. The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from the point A 1 to a straight line aa 1 . Dots accordingly. AT and IN 1 .

aB= BUT 1 AT 1=8-10cm

points AT and AT 1 is connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is continued to the right by 2-4 cm (the value of the protrusion of the corner). From the middle of the segment BB 1 restore up the perpendicular, on which they lay 2-2.5 cm. A smooth curve emerging from the point AT at right angles to the cut AB, connect the dots AT, 2-2.5 cm and 2-4 cm. Points 2-4 cm and BUT 1 connected under a line.

3.Collar with one-piece stand.

Build a right angle with a vertex BUT, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

middle line- the vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. from point BUT on the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm, - the length of the collar stitching line and put a point BUT 1:

AA 1 \u003d POsh + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

from point BUT 1 to the right horizontally set aside 2-2.5 cm - an allowance for half-drift and put a dot A 2:

AA 2=2-2.5 cm

from point BUT set aside along the middle line 2-4 cm and put a dot a:

Ah= 2-4 cm

points a and BUT 1 connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is then divided into 3 parts. The division points represent / and //. From the point /, the perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is laid on it. From the middle of the segment between the points BUT 1 and // draw down a perpendicular, on which they lay 0.2 cm. The edge of the half-skid is raised from the point BUT 2 by 0.3-0.5 cm. Points 0.3-0.5 cm, BUT 1 , 0.2 cm, //, 0.5 cm and a connect with a smooth curve.

Rack. From points BUT 1 , and BUT 2 up vertically lay 2.5-3.5 cm - the height of the rack and put points accordingly a 1 and a 2:

A 1 a 1 = A 2 a 2=2.5-3.5 cm

The rack ledge can be designed with a rounded curve connecting the points a 1 and 0.3-0.5 cm.

Flyaway cut. from point a up along the middle line lay 7-9 cm - the width of the collar at the back and put a point AT:

aB=7-9 cm

From a point AT BUT 1 , denoted by the letter AT 1 . line BB 1 continue to the right by 1-4 cm and put a dot IN 2 .

AT 1 AT 2 = 1-4 cm

point IN 2 a 1 ; the line continues up and on it from the point a 1 lay 7-15 cm - the length of the angle; put an end to in:

BUT 1 in = 7-15 cm

Line segment BB 1 divided into 3 parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve with a point in.

4.Collar with detachable stand.

Build a right angle with a vertex BUT, whose sides are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

middle line- the vertical side of the corner.

The line for stitching the rack into the neck. from point BUT to the right lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a point BUT 1 |:

AA 1 \u003d POsh + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

From a point BUT 1 restore up the perpendicular, on which they lay 2-4 cm and put a point BUT 2 :

BUT 1 BUT 2 = 2-4 cm

point BUT connect under a ruler with a dot BUT 2 , the line is continued to the right by 2-2.5 cm (half-skid allowance) and put a dot BUT 3 ;

BUT 2 BUT 3=2-2.5cm

line AA 2 divide in half. From the point of division, the perpendicular is restored downward, on which 1 cm is laid. The edge of the half-skid is raised from the point BUT 3 by 0.5 cm. Dots 0.5 cm, BUT 2.1 cm and BUT connect with a smooth curve.

The top section of the stand. from point BUT set aside along the middle line 3-4 cm-height of the rack and put a dot a:

Aa= 3-4 cm

From points BUT 2 and BUT 3 , restore upward perpendiculars to the segment AA 3, on which they lay 2.5-3 cm each, and put points accordingly a 1 and a 2 .

A 2 a 1 = BUT 3 a 2=2.5-3cm

points a and a 1 are connected by an auxiliary straight line. From its middle, a perpendicular is restored down, on which 1 cm is laid. Points a, 1 cm and a 1 connect with a smooth curve. The protrusion of the rack can be decorated with a rounded line connecting the points a and 0.5 cm.

Collar stitching line make out with the same bend as the top cut of the rack. Build it as follows. from point a 1, draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry. Its intersection with the midline is denoted by the letter in. from point in up along the midline lay a segment equal to av, and put a point in 1 :

centuries 1 = av

point in 1 connect an auxiliary line to a point a 1 . Line segment a 1 in 1 divide in half and from the division point restore upward the perpendicular, on which 1 cm is laid. Points in 1 , 1 cm and a 1 connect with a smooth curve.

Flyaway cut. from point in 1 up along the middle line lay 4-5 cm - the width of the departure and put a point in 2:

AT 1 in 2 = 4-5 cm

From a point in 1 draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from a point a 1 is denoted by a letter in 3 . line in 2 in 3 continue to the right 1-5 cm and put a dot in 4:

in 3 in 4=1-5cm

point in 4 are connected under a ruler with a dot a 1 The line continues up and on it from the point a 1, set aside 9-14 cm - the length of the angle; put an end to in 5:

a 1 a 5=9-14cm

Line segment in 2 in 3 are divided into 3 parts and the right point of division of the smooth curve is connected to the point in 5 .

5.Cut-off stand-up collar.

Build a right angle with a vertex BUT, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

line, middle vertical side of the corner.

Top cut and stitching line. from point BUT on the horizontal side of the corner lay a segment equal to the measure of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a point BUT 1 ,:

A A 1 \u003d POsh + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neck line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.

from point BUT along the middle line lay 3-4 cm - the width of the collar and put a dot AT:

AB= 3-4 cm

From a point AT draw an auxiliary horizontal line to the right, and from the point BUT 1 up vertical. Their intersection is denoted by the letter AT 1 .

The front edge of the rack can be raised by 1 cm. To do this, from the points BUT 1 and AT 1 up vertically lay 1 cm. Segments AA 1 and BB 1 are divided into 3 parts and the right division points are connected in pairs with smooth curves with dots of 1 cm. The length of the upper cut at the middle of the front is reduced by 0.5 cm.

The stand-up collar has many options. A set-in stand-up collar in the form of a rectangular strip lags behind the neck somewhat. To build it, you need the length of the neck line and the height of the rack. The line of the top cut is parallel to the stitching line.

If you want to give the collar a funnel shape, the stitching line is bent in the same way in the opposite direction.

The collar-collar pattern also has a rectangular shape, but its height is twice the height of the stand. A collar pattern of this type is usually built with a somewhat widened neck. It is cut out at an angle of 45 ° to the warp threads and double width, i.e. the upper and lower collars are cut from one single piece of fabric, placing the departure line in the fold of the material.

Patterns of collars that turn into a bow or scarf are built in the same way as a collar collar and a rectangular stand, but the height and length of the collar are chosen depending on the model and type of fabric.

Fantasy models of stand-up collars.

The collar is the decoration of any outfit. Blouses, shirts and even jackets would look completely different if there were no collars. They are able to change proportions, stretch the line of the neck and even become an accent of a designer product. Our lesson today is about the stand-up collar. It is one of the most popular items in men's fashion However, it is equally popular among women. We invite you to learn how to design various options stand-up collars. To build a pattern of any of these collars is very simple, it is enough to take just one measurement.

The detachable collar on the stand is widely used when sewing both men's and women's blouses and shirts. It is very comfortable to wear, softly hugs the neck. We offer you two options - with a detachable and one-piece stand. We emphasize that the width of the stand and the configuration of the collar are determined by the model and the designer.

Option 1. Turn-down collar with cut-off stand

Rice. Shirt collar with detachable stand

To construct a collar, take a measurement of Neck length (with placket). Draw a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neckline according to the pattern and a width of 10 cm (AC = 10 cm) (Fig. 1). From point C, set aside 3 cm (the width of the rack according to the measure) and draw a horizontal line C1D1.

Divide the CD in half (division points are marked with crosses). From point D, set aside up and to the right by 0.5 cm. From point D2, set aside up 0.5 cm. Draw a stand-up collar with a rounded top corner.

Fly-off collar

From point A, lay down 5 cm (the width of the collar). From point D, set aside DD1 = 1/2 the width of the bar. From point D1, draw up an auxiliary line and build a collar configuration.

IMPORTANT! The width and configuration of the collar depends on the model and design decision.

Rice. 1. Pattern of a shirt collar with a detachable stand

Remove the stand-up collar and the detachable collar separately on tracing paper and cut out with 1.5 cm seam allowances (Fig. 1a). The inner part of the stand and the outer part of the collar

Rice. 1a. Details of the cut of the shirt collar with a detachable stand

Option 2. Turn-down collar with a one-piece stand

Rice. Shirt collar with one-piece stand

Draw a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neckline according to the pattern and a width of 10 cm (AC = 10 cm). From point C, set aside 2 cm, 3 cm (stand-up collar width), 4 cm (collar width) (Fig. 2).

Divide CD in half and set aside 0.7 cm from the division point. Divide the right half of the collar in half. From point D, set aside 1 cm up and 0.5 cm to the right. Draw the bottom line of the collar as shown in fig. four.

From point 0.5, draw the short side of the stand-up collar 2.4 cm long. Draw the top side of the stand-up collar parallel to the bottom side.

From point 0.5 (stand), set aside ½ of the width of the bar along the pattern to the left and draw an auxiliary line to side AB. From point B, set aside 1 cm to the left and draw the configuration of the collar as shown in fig. 2.

Rice. 2. Pattern of a shirt collar with a one-piece stand

Take off the collar on tracing paper and cut it out with 1.5 cm seam allowances (Fig. 2a). Duplicate the outer part of the collar with thermal fabric.

Rice. 2a. Layout on the fabric of the collar with a one-piece stand

Collar pattern-mandarin (mandarin)

A stand-up collar that fits snugly to the neck without the usual fastener in front is called mandarin. In some cases, the collar may have a fastener, which is usually a loop that goes over a button on the stem. The edges of the collar can be rounded or straight, depending on the model. The height of such a collar can be from 4 to 5 cm. The collar owes its names to the traditional Chinese costume, from which it was "copied" and which was worn by officials of imperial China - tangerines. Subsequently, this name was assigned to this form of collar.

Rice. Mandarin collar

To build a collar pattern, use the pattern of the shelf and back of the product. Take a measurement of the length of the neck of the shelf and back from the pattern of the product (between the control points of the stitching of the collar).

Build a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neck according to the pattern and a height of 6.5 cm (Fig. 3). From point C, set aside 4 cm upwards (collar width - may vary depending on the model), in our case, CC1 = 4 cm. From point D, set aside 3 cm upwards. Draw a slightly curved line for stitching the collar. At a right angle, pass the short side of the collar (D1B1) to the segment AB and the upper side of the collar B1C1 according to the pattern or freehand.

Rice. 3. Mandarin collar pattern

Cut out 2 collar pieces with a fold in the center of the back. Seam allowances of 1.5 cm on all sides (Fig. 3a). Duplicate the outer part of the collar with a gasket.

Rice. 3a. Mandarin collar fabric layout

Tuxedo collar pattern (smoking)

Another stand-up collar option for real ladies is the tuxedo collar. This collar is used for blouses and shirts worn with a bow tie. Traditionally, the shirt is worn on ceremonial occasions under a tuxedo, hence the name.

From the pattern of the product, take a measurement of the length of the neck (with a strap). Draw a rectangle ABCD. AB \u003d ½ the length of the neck according to the pattern, AC \u003d 7.5 cm. From point C, set aside the length of the neck of the back according to the CC2 pattern. From point C2, draw up a short vertical auxiliary line. From point D, set aside DD1=1 cm. Connect C2D1 as shown in fig. four.

Rice. Tuxedo collar

Collar width CC1 = 3.5 cm. From point D, set aside 1.5 cm to the left (½ the width of the strap according to the pattern). BB1= 4.5 cm. Connect points 1.5 and 4.5. Set aside the segment DD1 = 2.5 cm at a right angle. Draw the outer edge of the collar according to the configuration in fig. four.

Rice. 4. Tuxedo collar pattern

Cut out 2 collar pieces with a fold in the center of the back. Seam allowances of 1.5 cm on all sides (Fig. 4a). Duplicate the inner part of the collar with a gasket.

Rice. 4a. Tuxedo collar fabric layout

To construct a collar pattern in an open collar without a stand, it is necessary to take a measurement of Neck girth (OR = 36 cm). The configuration of the edge of the collar can be different and is determined by the model and personal preferences.

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Collar pattern without stand

Rice. 1. Pattern of a collar without a stand in an open collar

Description of the construction of the pattern

Construct a rectangle ABCD. AC = 18 cm (1/2 of the neck circumference to measure or the length of the neck of the blouse to measure without entering the fastener). AB=7 cm (collar width + 1 cm). Set aside 1 cm from point B, set aside 1.5-2 cm from point D. Divide line BD in half. Draw a line for sewing the collar along the pattern.

Draw the bisector of angle C, set aside 4.5 cm along the bisector (the distance laid along the bisector affects the collar configuration, the larger the value, the sharper the collar angle). Draw the outer sides of the collar as shown in Fig. 1. Pattern of a collar without a stand in an open collar.

Cut out 2 parts of the collar with a fold along the shared thread.

Master class turn-down collar without stand

To perform this sewing operation, the outer collar piece is required, as well as both pick-up pieces and back collar facing.

IMPORTANT! Depending on the model of the product, the selection can be cut separately or be one-piece. In our master class, the selection is cut out separately. We cut out the upper collar obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees (designer's decision).

Rice. 1. Details of the cut of the product

Rice. 2. Connection of the shoulder seams of the product

Rice. 1. Cut out the details of the product with seam allowances of 1.5 cm. Duplicate the upper collar, both pickups and the facing of the neck of the back with thermal fabric.

Rice. 2. Stitch the details of the product along the shoulder and side seams, process the allowances.

Rice. 3 Allowances at the corners of the collar

Rice. 4 Shaping collar corners

Rice. 3. Stitch the collar details along the outer and short sides. Cut allowances, in the corners - obliquely.

Rice. 4. Turn the collar out, form the corners with scissors.

Rice. 5 Bottom and front sides of the collar

Rice. 6 Collar ready for sewing

Rice. 5. Sweep the collar cleanly, turning the seam to the wrong side.

Rice. 6. A correctly made collar should bend easily, as shown in the photo.

Rice. 7. Collar fold formation

Rice. 8. Equalization of collar allowances

Rice. 7. Bend the collar along and secure with pins.

Rice. 8. Level the allowances along the open edge, cutting off the excess.

Rice. 9. Fastening the collar according to the marks on the neck

Rice. 10. The collar is swept into the neck

Rice. 9. Put the collar on the product front sides up, chip off the marks.

Rice. 10. Sweep the collar into the neck.

Rice. 11. Details of the selection and facing of the neck of the back

Another way to make a drawing of turn-down collars.

First, we determine the model of the dress or blouse, adjust the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.

For this method, it is necessary to measure the length of the neck according to the patterns of the front and back. This is conveniently done with a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on edge. In our example, the length of the neck is 20 cm.

We put the front and back patterns aside and proceed to the construction of the collar itself.

We start by building a right angle. We mark the top with point O. From point O upwards vertically, set aside 1.5 - 12 cm and set point B. Please note that the difference is significant between the lower and upper limits of this value. And this means that appearance collars will be significantly different.

In the manufacture of patterns for flat-lying collars with a low stand, a large value of the segment OB is taken.

For collars with a high stand, smaller values ​​are taken.

The greater the distance OB, the flatter the collar will lie.

We will build two drawings as an example. One - with a maximum distance of OB (12 cm), the other - with a minimum (1.5 cm).

The height of the stand varies from 1.5 to 3.5 cm.

Let's start with flat-lying collar.

In this embodiment, the distance OB will be equal to 12 cm.

Let's define the distance VA. It is equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured according to the patterns of the front and back, minus the coefficient K, where K = 0.05 x OB.

In our example, K = 0.05 x 12cm = 0.6cm.

Now we calculate the distance VA:

20cm - 0.6 = 19.04 cm

From point B, using a compass with a radius of 19.04 cm, we make a mark and put point A.

Connect points B and A.

We divide the distance BA in half. We denote the division point with the letter C. From point C along the perpendicular upwards, set aside 1-3 cm and set point C1. The greater the distance OB, the correspondingly greater the distance CC1. In our particular case, this segment is 3 cm.

We draw the stitching line with a smooth curve connecting points B, C1 and A. Remembering that the stitching line should approach middle line collar at a right angle.

The height of the rack in this embodiment will be approximately 1.5 - 2 cm. From point B, set aside this value upwards and set point B1.

The width of the collar can vary significantly depending on the model (6 - 14 cm). And even this is not the limit. In fact, you yourself determine the width of the collar, the shape of the swing and the shape of the front ends of the collar.

In our example, we are building a collar 8 cm wide. From point B, we measure this distance upwards and set point B2.

We turn to the construction of the ends of the collar. For our particular case, the distance AA1 is 5.5 cm. When the distance OB changes, the segment AA1 will also change.

From point A upwards at a right angle to the line OA, we draw a straight line, on which we set aside 5.5 cm and set point A1. From point A1 to the right at a right angle to line AA1 we draw a straight line, on which we set aside 8 cm and set point A2. This distance is also variable.

It all depends on what configuration the ends of the collar should be. In our particular case, this distance is 8cm. We connect points A and A2 with a straight line. We draw the departure line with a smooth line, connecting points B2 and A2.

Construction completed.

IMPORTANT. Segments AA1 and A1A2 are non-constant values. For small values ​​of the segment OB, the distance AA1 is usually calculated according to the formula AA1 = BB2 + 1cm. In our example, this formula does not work. In each case, especially if you deviate from the classic, standard forms, do not get attached to the above-mentioned segments. Moreover, you can draw a departure line without auxiliary lines. The main thing to remember is - the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle. Everything else is controlled by you.

If you have not come across the topic of designing collars before, do everything according to the instructions for the first time in order to learn the principle of construction, so to speak, test the scheme and understand how it works. And after acquiring the slightest skills, you will see that everything is very simple.

Once you've made your collar pattern, it's best to test it out on an inexpensive piece of fabric to make sure it looks exactly the way you intended.

When making a collar pattern, do not forget about the difference between the upper and lower collars.

I remind you. The template of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3 mm larger than the template of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without puffs and deformations - this is the time. So that in the process of basting the stitching line does not look out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of a perekant throughout the departure - these are two. And ultimately, to ensure a good collar fit, and hence the appearance of the entire product.

Therefore, first copy one part of the collar clearly along the line from the main drawing, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, increase this pattern by adding the required value along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will analyze one of the most interesting and extensive design topics - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). For this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it with rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our site, select " basic pattern dresses" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern, you can print it even on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let's start our "dive" into the topic of modeling collars with the most simple and understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand collars are built in the same sequence, only they have different values ​​\u200b\u200band line configurations. Collars can be with rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end to end, more or less close to the neck. The clasp can be located both in front and behind.

Let's now analyze the construction of the stand collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example, 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and set aside this value in a straight line. To prevent the stand from moving away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the tighter the stand will fit to the neck). Now we set the desired height of the rack (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our collar - the stand. Remember to keep the rack height constant! A blue control notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will align it with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand collar as on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the neck of the back minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the rack according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And draw a beautiful stand! Also, do not forget to check the height of the rack.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. Such a cut of the collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts in the line of the stand.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the value by which one part of the shelf will go behind the other). Usually it is about 2 cm for the central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. We connect the points obtained with lines (red).

We determine the height of the rack. In the example with a one-piece rack, the height of the rack gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along shoulder section already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back, we set aside the height of the stand on the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​​​the shoulder seam, we draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition of the collar to the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we correct the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw the upper cut of the rack, rounding in front.

Now next in line flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. First, we need to translate shoulder tuck on the back and chest on the shelf in the line of the armhole - it is much more convenient to draw a flat lying collar. Now we put the back part on the shelf, leading 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. Determine the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! On the middle seam of the back we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5-5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has something with such a collar. Most often they can be found in shirts. To simplify the sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing stand-up collar like a blue blouse. As in the stand collars, we initially draw the length of the neckline minus 0.5 cm in a straight line. From one edge (where the middle seam of the back will be) to set the necessary bending of the bottom line of the collar, set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the value of the stand (2, 5 - 3 cm), and the so-called "back collar width" (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up, (there may be other values ​​\u200b\u200bdepending on the height of the stand and the width of the departure you have chosen). And we try according to the pattern, we draw a collar !!! The rack can be either detachable or one-piece (Figure 6).

Collar cut shawl. These collars are very effective and not laborious in comparison with jacket collars. The upper collar is cut together with the selection, which greatly simplifies the whole work. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we advise you to start with just such a model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache.

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as on the first model. First, let's set the bead width to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, according to the model, you need to determine the depth of the cut and put a point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - set point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the inflection line of the collar (red). Now we measure the length of the neck of the back and with the help of a compass from point a, we make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the neck of the back.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c tangentially set aside the value of the collar departure plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the width of the departure is 6 cm, then the segment cd \u003d 6.8 cm). Point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, we finish the line on the neck - we get the lower cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl departure perpendicular to the lower cut of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last action is to draw a smooth line of the upper cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's see what details we got in the end (Figure 8).

Pickup. We need to draw the inner line of the selection, to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), we draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and finish at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. We transfer the part onto a separate sheet of paper along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area of ​​​​the transition of the selection to the facing of the back (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer lines of the selection (solid blue and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is made detachable. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The shelf is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket type collars. Such collars are made of four parts - the lower and upper collars and two rack parts. Sometimes the racks are made in one piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the shelf. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with great care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be spoiled.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first construction steps are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a side 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm (for the central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the inflection line of the collar, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left, set point b. We decide on the desired depth of the cutout and draw the line of the inflection of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the neck of the back - we put point c. Then, from point c, tangentially, we set aside the width of the back of the collar plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. We connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d, we restore the perpendicular to the line da and set aside on it, first the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the lines of the departure of the collar, ruffle and lapel. Refer to Figure 11 for an understanding of these concepts.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look like in finished product, draw it on the right side on the shelf details (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this with the help of tracing paper.

Now it remains to draw a complete rack. The upper cut is drawn below the inflection line by 0.5 cm, the width is left 2-2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting details:

• Pickup. It is drawn similarly to the collar of a shawl. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
• Collar (lower and upper). Copies completely with the rack.
• Shelf. We translate everything, only without a collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, diverse and quite complex. So, if you have any questions - feel free to ask them in