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Hello, in this article we will consider one of the methods of constructive modeling - changing the volumetric shape of the basic design of the dress by the method of unmodeling the chest tuck and shoulder tuck backs.

Some models of shoulder clothing are more voluminous in comparison with the basic design of the dress. One way to obtain such a shape from a basic design is constructive modeling. With an increase in volume, the nature of the supporting surfaces changes - the gap between the figure and clothing along the chest line increases, which leads to a greater detachment of the side sections of the back and front from the surface of the figure. In other words, the curvature of the surface decreases in front at the level of the chest line and on the back in the area of ​​the shoulder blades, and the product turns out to be flatter, not emphasizing the chest.

Structurally, such a model form is achieved by reducing the openings of the upper tuck in the front and the shoulder tuck in the back, up to their complete elimination by unmodeling the base tucks.
Under tuck demodeling understand the translation of any part of the solution into sections of the product (armhole, neck, bottom line, etc.) in order to lengthen these sections, which allows you to get a flatter shape that does not emphasize the shape of the body.

I propose to consider how to properly unmodel tucks. To begin with, we will transfer the details of the basic design of the dress to a blank sheet of paper and be sure to mark the control points of the armhole.

As a rule, darts are not used in three-dimensional products (depending on the model of the product). Therefore, we can simply remove the tucks along the waistline on the shelf and back. Depending on the model and style of the product, the solution of traveling tucks along the side sections of both parts is reduced partially or completely, in accordance with this, new side sections are built. If there is a notch along the waist line on the middle line of the back, then this tuck can also be removed and a new middle cut of the back can be drawn.

Well, now let's move on to unmodeling the tucks.

shelf modeling
To perform modeling on the drawing of the shelf, we will build auxiliary lines to those sections where it is possible to unmodel the share of the chest tuck:
in the middle line- the auxiliary line is built from the top of the chest tuck to the line of the middle of the shelf at a right angle;
in the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the chest tuck to the line of the armhole of the shelf 1-2 cm above the control point;
in the bottom line- from the top of the chest tuck, a vertical line is built to the line of the bottom of the shelf.

Thus, we can unmodel the chest tuck: into the shoulder line, into the middle line, into the armhole line and into the bottom line of the shelf.
Let's consider several options for unmodeling the chest tuck.

First way
Let's cut the detail of the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the bottom line.

Let's translate the solution of the chest tuck:
in the armhole line can be remodeled up to 2cm,
in the line of the shoulder- up to 1 cm,
the rest is unmodeled in the bottom line shelves.

When translating the tuck, the cuts were broken, we will draw a new shoulder line, armhole line and bottom line.

And so, we got a shelf without a chest tuck.

Since we unmodeled the tuck into the shoulder line by up to 1 cm, accordingly, the shoulder line lengthened by this amount. If the model does not require it, this value is cut off from the end of the arm. We also lengthened the bottom line, that is, the shelf expanded to the bottom line. If such extension along the line of the bottom is not desired, then half or 2/3 of this extension can be removed from the lateral line.

Now you need to rotate the upper central part around the cut point on the midline so that the center of the chest drops by 0.5-1cm. The rest of the tuck can be modeled into the armhole line, but the allowable value is up to 2 cm.

We draw a new section of the armhole, and a neck or collar is built along the middle line, in accordance with the model of the product. And again we got a shelf without a chest tuck.

This time, the upper part of the shelf must be lowered parallel to the cut line by up to 1 cm. In the line of the armhole we translate the solution of the chest tuck up to 2 cm, the rest - in the bottom line.

Having lowered the upper part of the shelf by up to 1 cm, we have shortened the line of the middle of the shelf by this amount. Therefore, it is necessary to lengthen the front by the amount of reduction of the shelf along the chest line. Then we will build a new armhole line and a bottom line.

The hem extension can also be reduced by removing half or 2/3 of this extension from the side cut.

Let's cut the back detail along the auxiliary lines and translate the solution of the shoulder tuck:
in the line of the shoulder- by the same amount as on the shelf in order to maintain the fit (up to 1 cm)
in the armhole line- translate the rest of the tuck (up to 1-2 cm).
In addition, along the bottom line, it is necessary to perform exactly the same expansion that we got on the shelf.

Let's draw new sections along the line of the shoulder, armhole and bottom. If an extension is cut off on the shelf along the shoulder line, which was obtained after the breast tuck was unmodeled, then on the back it is also possible to cut off this extension from the end of the shoulder. It is also possible to leave the shoulder cut of the back longer than the line of the shoulder of the shelf; in the process of sewing, this difference is laid on the fit of the shoulder of the back.

Thus, we got a backrest pattern without a shoulder tuck.

In products with split back along the middle line, another zone is possible into which a part of the shoulder tuck can be unmodeled - this is the middle line of the back. On this section of the back, it is permissible to unmodel up to 0.6 cm of the shoulder tuck.

In this case, the neckline of the backrest becomes wider by this amount. If, according to the model of the product, expansion of the neck is not desirable, then the line of the shoulder from the side of the neck can be extended by the amount of expansion of the neck, and the same amount can be cut off from the end of the shoulder. Next, new sections of the neck and armholes of the back are built.

We will construct the second line as follows: measure the length of the eye from the first line to the line of the middle of the sleeve. The resulting value will be set aside along the rim from the middle line to the side of the front cut of the sleeve. The line of the bottom of the sleeve in the area from the front cut to the middle line is divided in half.

We connect the obtained points with a straight line, which will be the second line of the cut.

We cut the sleeve along the constructed lines.

Now we expand our sleeve along the rim in such a way that the expansion is equal to the amount of tuck unmodeling into the armhole of the front and back minus 0.5-1 cm. be careful, the amount of tuck demodeling on both parts is different, but we subtract 0.5-1 cm from each value. How much to subtract depends on how wide the sleeve needs to be.

We draw up a new eye line with a rise along the middle line by 1-2 cm.

And our sleeve pattern for the new armhole is ready.

When modeling a chest tuck, you should know that the figure with big breasted(size 52+) in products with a set-in sleeve, a good fit cannot be achieved without a chest tuck. Therefore, it is better to limit the demodeling of the chest tuck to size 52.
In conclusion, I will add: the shape of the product without chest and shoulder darts can be obtained not only by modeling the basic design, but also by building such a design right away, with an extension of the armhole, an extension of the front line and an expansion of the shoulder line. But more on that in future posts!

You can start modeling. And one of the main modeling techniques is the transfer (translation) of the chest tuck. Next I will describe 7 examples tuck translation, read.

Initially, the shelf looks like in this picture. The chest tuck is located from the center of the chest to the shoulder seam. We will only model the shelf. Next to the shelf you see a dress. It is this dress that will turn out if the chest tuck is left as it is.

The pattern can be cut from the constructed drawing, or made a copy. It is better to make a copy, and leave the drawing, it will still come in handy.

To make a copy of the pattern, it will be necessary to transfer all the contours with a cutter, carbon paper or tracing paper to paper. We translate the contours exactly along the lines. We translate everything that is on the drawing: constructive horizontal and vertical lines, tucks.

If you do not want to bother with sheets and cutters, I invite you to the course, we will model on a computer and save your time. In the program, we copy the file with the base pattern with one click and start modeling. Parametric patterns with translated tucks are suitable for cutting any shoulder product: dresses, jackets, coats ... And they can also be used for further more complex modeling.

Modeling

• So, we transferred the pattern of the base of the shelf (front half) with the chest shoulder tuck from the drawing to another sheet.
• Next, we draw a new line for the position of the tuck and connect it to point G7. Point G7 is the base of the chest tuck.
• We cut the tuck along a new line, while closing the opening of the chest tuck from the shoulder and combining its sides.
• We got a new tuck, in a different direction.

This principle works in all examples of tuck translation.

Options for transferring the chest tuck

1. Transfer of the chest tuck to the armhole line

From point G7 to any point on the armhole, draw a new tuck line. This line is marked in red in the figure. Then we cut the pattern along the intended line without reaching the G7 point 1-2 mm. And open a new tuck, while closing the previous tuck, which was from the shoulder seam. Thus, we got a new tuck coming from the armhole line.

2. Transfer of the chest tuck to the line of the side seam

In this example, we draw a new tuck line from point G7 to side cut. This point is also chosen arbitrarily, approximately 3-10 cm from the armhole line. And we cut this line in the same way. We open a new tuck, while closing the tuck from the shoulder seam.

3. Transfer of the tuck into the side seam at the level of the waist line

Similarly, we translate the tuck into the side seam at the level of the waist line. In this example, the point is located at the intersection of the waist line with the side seam. In the drawing, this is point T4. We connect point T4 with Point G7 and cut the pattern along this line. We open the chest tuck in a new place, while closing it at the shoulder seam.

4. Transfer of the chest tuck to the bottom line

In this example, we lower the vertical from the G7 point to the bottom line. And cut the pattern along this line. waist tuck on the paper pattern in this example, we also cut. You can cut it in advance or after we cut the vertical from point G7. We also cut out this tuck on the fabric. The main thing is not to forget about the seam allowance!

In this example of the translation of the chest tuck, we seem to combine two darts: waist and chest. If you do not grind the tuck, we get a trapezoid dress. But then the back also needs to be made in the form of a trapezoid.

5. Transfer of the chest tuck to the neckline

In this example, we connect the G7 point with an arbitrary point on the neck line. We cut the pattern along this line, not reaching the point G7 1-2 mm. We open a new tuck, while closing the tuck from the shoulder line. Instead of a tuck in this example, you can make gathers or lay folds around the neck.

6. Transfer of the chest tuck to the point of intersection of the neck line and the middle of the shelf

An example similar to the previous one. Only the point on the neck line is taken not arbitrary, but at the intersection with the middle of the shelf. On the drawing of the base pattern, this is point A5.

We connect A5 with G7 and cut without reaching the point G7 1-2 mm. We push the lines of the new tuck, while closing the tuck from the shoulder seam.

7. Transfer of the chest tuck to the middle of the front

And the last option is a tuck from the middle of the shelf. This option can be with a seam from the neck to the tuck line or with a seam from the neck to the bottom.

We do everything similarly to the previous examples. We connect the point G7 with an arbitrary point on the line of the middle of the shelf. In this example, the tuck line is horizontal. But it can also be located at any slope (angle) to the line of the middle of the shelf.

Here are examples of the translation of the chest tuck.

Do you understand the principle?

If you have any questions, ask in the comments or on. I will answer with pleasure.

With the help of techniques, we can create patterns for any model of clothing we like. If you liked this lesson, subscribe to new blog articles, we will model a bodice with coquettes, with embossed seams, undercuts, draperies, etc.

© Olga Marizina

When creating a new style and using the method of moving the tuck, you must always remember the following: in all positions and types of the chest tuck, its top should always be directed to the center of the bulge of the chest.

And one more important information. To achieve smoothness in the chest area, the tuck is shortened by 1-3 cm if its sides are directed to the shoulder seam, neckline and armhole. And 2 - 4 cm, if its sides are directed to the side seam, to the waist line and to the center of the front.

If you have not yet built a dress pattern for yourself, we recommend using our

Moving the tuck into the armhole.

To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the dress base pattern onto a sheet of paper.

Set aside about 1/3 of the length of the armhole from the sideline and set point D.

Note: The division into 3 parts is just one of many options. Can be divided into 2 parts, you can choose any point on the armhole line.

We continue. We connect point G7 with a straight line to point D and cut the bodice along this line.

We close the chest tuck, thereby opening a new tuck along the G7D cut line.

Do not forget to shorten the resulting tuck by 1 - 2 cm to achieve smoothness when processing the bulge in the chest area. To do this, we shift the top of the tuck from the center by 1 - 2 cm and connect this top with straight lines to the ends of the tuck.

Under the unmodeling of tucks, we understand the transfer of any part of it into sections (armholes, necklines, bottoms) in order to lengthen them, caused by a change in the shape of the corresponding section of the structure. The scheme of conditional dismemberment of the back by lines of the direction of translation of the shoulder tuck of the back, indicating the possible values ​​of elongation of the sections, is shown in Figure 8.1.

1. Translation of the shoulder tuck into middle line backs. It is used when modeling products with an average seam. Recommended for soft plastic fabrics.

2. Elongation of the neck of the back due to the transfer of part of the shoulder tuck into it is insignificant. A large amount of tuck, translated into the neck, can lead to the backlog of the neck from the neck.

3. The transfer of the shoulder tuck into the cut of the back armhole is performed in such a way that the resulting lengthening of the armhole (Δ pr.sp.) corresponds to a change in the thickness of the shoulder pad.

If the shoulder pad is not provided in the BC, then Δ pr.sp. equal to the thickness of the shoulder pad introduced into the model design. Depending on the projected inclination of the shoulder, a complete or partial transfer of the shoulder tuck into the armhole is carried out.

4. An additional elongation for suture can be designed along the cut of the armhole. This conversion is made to reduce the opening of the shoulder tuck or to replace with a shoulder cut fit. Armhole suture is possible in products made from fabrics that are amenable to WTO. Incomplete adjustment of the size of the tuck converted into an armhole or an incorrect assessment of the forming properties of materials leads to defects that appear as oblique folds under the armhole.

5. In products made of soft plastic materials on the back with a relief, you can use line 5 to translate the shoulder tuck.

Elongation of the cut of the relief of the central part of the back for suture is used in order to reduce the suture along the shoulder cut. From the point of view of the rational use of the forming properties of materials, suture from the side of the oblique cut of the relief is preferable to suture of the almost longitudinal section of the cut of the armhole. In addition, the stitching of the relief cut can be replaced by preliminary grinding of the relief seam, followed by ironing the seam and simultaneous stitching of the fit. In model constructions, as a rule, suture is designed in three sections at once: shoulder, armhole and relief.

6. The transfer of the shoulder tuck to the cut of the bottom is used when designing the silhouette "trapezoid".

Figure 8.1 - Scheme of possible directions for demodeling the shoulder tuck

Figure 8.2 - Scheme of possible directions for demodeling the chest tuck

The unmodeling of the upper tuck in front to change its shape has a significant difference from a similar procedure performed on the back. The convexity of the chest is so far from the sections of the shoulder and armhole that they cannot be used for sutyuzhivaniya.

A diagram of the conditional dismemberment of the part in front of the lines for the direction of translation of the upper tuck with numbering and an indication of the possible values ​​​​of elongation of the sections is shown in Figure 8.2.

1. The transfer of a part of the tuck into the middle line of the front is used when modeling swing products in outerwear with an open clasp, designing a sutyuzhenie from the side of the lapel. This allows you to reduce the size of the tuck solution transferred to the floodplain, because excessive lengthening of the armhole leads to the appearance of angular creases under the armhole. In the manufacture of products, a dolevik is placed along the inflection line of the lapel, fixing the projected amount of suture. With this solution of the design, it is necessary to perform a suture and along the edge of the lapel, in order to avoid this, the transfer of a part of the upper tuck is carried out in direction 2.

2. Translation is performed along a broken line. It is advisable to make a tuck under the lapel in a split way in order to grind it with a fit of a longer cut and sew this fit when ironing the tuck.

3. The translation of a part of the tuck into the neck is similar to the translation into the neck of the back.

4. The transfer of the tuck into the armhole must be carried out so that the elongation of the floodplain does not exceed the elongation of the floodplain of the back. This will ensure the balance of the model armhole in the product. With a significant model increase in the shoulder (the thickness of the shoulder pad is more than 1-1.5 cm), it is necessary to additionally lengthen the armhole by 0.5 cm for each centimeter of increase in the thickness of the shoulder pad.

A variant is possible when the lengthening of the front armhole, obtained as a result of the transfer of the tuck, exceeds the lengthening of the back armhole. Such a solution makes it possible to obtain a high-quality design only in the presence of an expansion of the product along the chest line, and it is desirable that ΔPg be close in value to the value of the lengthening of the front armhole. In the absence of expansion under the armhole and an excess length of the armhole, the front of the product forms an angular hall from the armhole.

5. The translation of the upper part of the front tuck into the relief line from the armhole is similar to the same translation of the shoulder tuck on the back. Shrinking the cut of the relief of the central part of the front, lengthening as a result of the translation of the tuck allows you to maintain the position of the center of the bulge of the front during the transition from the BC to the MC.

Good afternoon, today's our article will be devoted to the TRANSFER OF THE TRUCK. We will transfer the tuck from the place where it is located on the pattern (that is, from the shoulder seam) to the classic place put for it (to the side seam). Such a manipulation is performed by all tailors after constructing the basic pattern, in the event that, of course, this tuck is not transferred somewhere else, following the constructive intention of the fashion designer. Perhaps you have questions ... Why do you need to transfer this tuck at all, is it necessary? Is it possible to immediately draw a chest tuck on side seam so that you don't have to move it there every time? I will answer with pleasure.

First of all, we need your basic dress pattern. Just in case, I remind you that basic pattern dresses you can easily build with our program: just enter your measurements in the form and click the "generate" button. The program itself will perform all the necessary constructions and calculations. Online generator of basic dress pattern here:

Why carry a tuck?

The tuck is transferred to the side seam (5-7 cm below the armpit) so that it is not noticeable as it would be if the fashion designer decided to leave it on the shoulder. If you open your closet with blouses and dresses, you will see that all chest darts are on classic models located in this very side seam, where they are covered with a hand, do not catch the eye and do not interfere with the fashion designer's imagination.

Is it possible to immediately draw a tuck where it should be - on the side seam?

The fact is that creating a pattern for a specific dress initially involves changing the Basic pattern IN STRICT ACCORDANCE WITH THE SILHOUETTE OF THE DRESS, ITS STYLE AND OTHER CUT ELEMENTS. Dart - and there is one of these very "cut elements". And in different dresses this groove is transferred to different places. Most often (in classic version) its location is 5-7 cm below the armpit. But there are dresses (and we will sew them with you), where the chest tuck is transferred to the waist, to the neck, to the armhole, etc. In each specific case, when modeling one or another style of dress, each time we will transfer the tuck to the place where it is provided for by the laws of cut this particular dress.

In our today's article, we will take a closer look at the transfer of the tuck to the side seam, because. in the vast majority of styles of dresses, our tuck that's where it's located. So let's get started...

How to transfer a tuck to a side seam

This is a very simple process - and it will take you no more than 2-3 minutes.

This is what our pattern looks like with tucks on the shoulder seam. (Have you already ordered your basic pattern on our service? Here: link) If you leave this tuck here and close it, it will create a bulge necessary for our chest, BUT on our dress in the center of each shoulder there will be a not very attractive seam. We don't need it, so we we will transfer the tuck to a less hidden place - to the side seam.

We take a pencil and a ruler. On the pattern from the bottom edge of the armhole down we measure 5-7 cm - in this place we put a point.

Now we find the top of our chest tuck - here it is. And we draw a line connecting the top of the chest tuck with the point that we measured on the side line of the pattern.

​ We take scissors and along this line we make an incision BEFORE REACHING 2 CM to the top of the tuck.​

now we manually close the tuck on the shoulder and we automatically open a new tuck in the very place where we just made an incision. That's all - it remains only to seal the old tuck with tape (so that it does not open back).

So we got a new tuck on the side seam under the armpit. As you can see in the photo below, this new tuck performs its function remarkably - that is, just like the old one, it creates a voluminous bulge for your chest.

And now you can continue to cut your dress, with full confidence that the new tuck will fit perfectly into the shape of your chest, and the bodice of your dress will fit you well.

As you can see the whole point of transferring the tuck (no matter where) comes down to the following: we make an incision in the place where we want to move the tuck, close the old tuck, and we automatically create a new tuck (by pushing apart the cut parts of the pattern). By exactly the same principle, we will transfer the darts to any place we have planned. We will encounter the transfer of a tuck more than once when modeling different styles of a dress, and each time I will tell you in detail and show step by step the entire process of transferring a tuck to a new place.

Good luck with your sewing!