The finished garment without finishing is unattractive to the consumer. In order to "revive" the product, to decorate it, quite a lot of methods and types of technological equipment that implement them are known. Recently, special attention has been paid to the finishing of products.

The leading direction in the field of finishing is embroidery which is getting more and more popular every year. Embroidered products and simply embroidered fabrics look very impressive and can add exclusivity to even the simplest products. And the diversity of the assortment and the elegance of the product are beyond doubt.

Big successes were achieved by Tajima (Japan), Barudan (Japan), Sun-Star (South Korea), ZSK (Germany), Melco (USA). The constructive variety of equipment for embroidery is great. So, the number of sewing heads in the unit ranges from 1÷2 to 20 or more. The number of replaceable colored threads is from 6 to 15. The embroidery field of one head reaches a size of 450  550 mm; stitch length - from 0.1 to 12.7 mm. Sewing speed up to 1200 rpm (with a stitch length of 2÷3 mm), and sometimes 1500 rpm. The equipment can reproduce paintings by famous artists on fabric using colored threads. A general view of one of these installations is shown in Figure 1.

Rice. 1. Embroidery machine

The improvement of this technique goes in the following ways: the amount of memory is increased, the number of sewing heads is increased (up to 60 pieces), devices for automatic replacement of bobbin in shuttles are introduced into the design; various finishes are combined in one setting: embroidery, appliqué, cord stitching, chain stitch embroidery. The dimensions of the products that can be fixed in the clamps of the machine are reduced.

The combination of well-known embroidery machines with a laser installation is especially effective. Here the possibilities of the artist can be realized much more fully. It can create multi-layered compositions of a complex profile, engrave, make applications from various materials, including foil. It is possible, for the sake of fashion, to imitate scuffs, holes. The cut spot diameter is approximately 0.2 mm. Laser cutting is very accurate and accurate, does not depend on the complexity of the contour; programmable, like embroidery. It allows you to perform such a complex type of finish as "richelieu". At the same time, the edge after trimming on fabrics containing synthetics is melted, and shedding is prevented.

A few words about stitch . The well-known stitch “diamonds” or “waves” is a primitive that is a thing of the past.

Today, stitch is approaching embroidery. Laying a cord, ribbon, stitching with sequins (sparkles), beads, glass beads is used. The control is carried out not by cams, but by a computer through servomotors, and therefore the complexity of the drawing is limited only by the artist's imagination. The shuttles are not "boat", but rotary; this made it possible to increase the operating speed from 600 to 1000 rpm. Paired needles allow you to get compressed firmware. The tension of the material during rewinding from roll to roll is carried out by compressed air.

The scope of embroidered fabrics is very large: curtains, tulle, drapery of walls and openings in buildings, furniture covering, bed linen, elegant evening wear (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Stitch patterns

The fashionable direction of finishing today is the processing of products hand stitch . Lines consisting of such stitches are laid on men's jackets, women's jackets, shirts. And if it used to be really a line made by hand, which is slow and expensive, now special machines have appeared for this purpose. Some of them imitate hand stitch, but there are those that completely repeat the stitch made by an experienced tailor.

In this case, the machine needle has a sharp point on both sides and an eye in the middle. Two collet clamps pass it, threaded, to each other. The mechanism is quite complicated, and besides, the thread during sewing repeatedly passes through the needle hole, which leads to a loss of its strength, and manufacturers recommend special threads for these machines.

Naturally, the work of such machines is more productive. As an example of such a machine, let's call the DECO-2000 ATT of the American company AMFReese. Finishing lines are laid on it, for example, along the side of the jacket, on slots, darts, on leaflets, on pockets.

Recently, machines have appeared for attaching finishing touches to clothing. thermoplastic elements using ultrasonic generators. Such equipment is manufactured by V1VISIONTECH.CO (South Korea). The machine under the brand VHS-540 has two baskets (bunkers), which accommodate two types of fittings. Piece by piece, the fittings are automatically fed into the working area and, with the help of simultaneous heating and ultrasonic action, the finishing element is attached to the fabric. This double action increases the strength of the connection. With a simple switch, the operator can switch from one type of fittings to another, that is, to supply from one basket, then from another (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Ultrasonic installation for attaching fittings

clothing (rhinestones, sequins)

The same firm demonstrated a setup combined with a lockstitch sewing machine and a needle feeder. sequins (sequins) separated from the metal strip. When sewing, the needle enters the hole in the sequin and attaches it to the product. Sequins can be sewn close to each other or at intervals. The feed rate is changed by means of a cam mechanism.

Another interesting machine was developed by SALLI (South Korea). The thermoplastic tape is rewound from cassette to cassette. A punch is installed in the working area, which knocks out a small flat figure from the tape, which is immediately attached to the surface of the fabric due to ultrasonic heating. Substituting various parts of the fabric under the punch, you can get a bright finish of a rather interesting shape.

For finishing products from more dense, non-flowing materials (cloth, thin leather), the SRC-50 machine from SALLI is used (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Finishing machine for dense materials

In this machine, a roller on which a pattern is applied is used as a working body. Under the influence of ultrasonic frequency waves, the pattern of the roller, when rolling it over the fabric, perforates this fabric, carving small holes on it, which together forms a kind of hemstitch. New original finish.

Laser drawings, welding devices for attaching finishing strips, installations for making numbers and all kinds of inscriptions on T-shirts, jackets, bags, scarves are used in decoration.

Until now, drawings and inscriptions were applied by silk-screen printing. This is a method of applying paint through a stencil. But at the same time, if the image should be multi-colored, you need to superimpose several layers (again through a stencil) on top of each other. Hence, the quality is not always good, and the productivity is low.

The modern method of printing on textiles is a method of directly applying a pattern to the fabric using a printer, similar to those that are widely used in office work (Fig. 5).

The images are very clear, almost photographic quality. There are no color restrictions.

Water-based ink is used for drawing. To the touch, the image does not differ from the main fabric. The pattern is fixed at a temperature of 150–185 °C using a heat press, which makes it possible to achieve complete fixation of the colors on the fabric.

The inks that are used in printers do not adversely affect human skin, as they are water-based inks. Modern technology provides the possibility of full-color printing on fabrics with different fiber composition. The equipment is supplied by Brother (Japan), AnaJet (USA).

Rice. 5. Textile printer

Another type of finish drawings and inscriptions made on the basis of thermal transfer films. Scope - work and sportswear. The finish is bright, clearly visible, highly resistant to washing, dry cleaning, and aggressive external manifestations.

Rice. 6. Press for installing hooks, loops, buttons on clothes

Film inscriptions are made of thin films (only 55÷60 microns), which, when exposed to heat, are welded to the product, forming, as it were, one whole with the fabric.

Thermal transfer films are made from polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride. They also include glue. It is activated by heat and penetrates the structure of the fabric, and when cooled, it polymerizes, fixing the pattern.

To obtain such a finish, you need a cutting plotter (this is a well-known printer that has a knife instead of a print head) and a heat press. Equipment and films are offered by Zenon (Germany).

Gutos (Germany) demonstrated a system technique (Fig. 6) for installing various types of buttons, hooks, loops, clips on clothes, which, in addition to their main purpose of “holding something”, can also have a finishing function - to decorate clothes. These fittings can be metal and plastic, smooth and patterned. Sometimes the buttons are made with covered fabrics; the same from which the clothes are made or, conversely, contrasting.

The finishing of denim products stands apart. Now new jeans go on sale in such a form as if they had been worn for a long time: faded paint, local scuffs, even holes - these are the requirements of fashion. This is achieved by cooking in a washing machine with special stones (such as pumice) and with biologically active substances - enzymes. These technologies are very complex, but today they are well developed. Firms such as Tonello (Italy) or Novozymes (Denmark) supply equipment and chemical components in the required quantities.

Sections: Correctional Pedagogy

1. Reflection of mood and emotional state

Students are asked to choose a picture that matches their mood. At the end of the lesson, give the task to place the rays in the sun according to your mood.

Fashion, though fleeting, manages to fix certain moments of social development.

Gabriel Tarde

The purpose of the lesson: to introduce students to the history of fashion from the Stone Age to the present.

Tasks:

• To form an idea about the methods of finishing the product, its purpose.
• Learn to apply the finish, in accordance with the type, shape and color of the product.
• Develop visual-figurative thinking, cognitive activity.

Means of education: stand "Types of finishing"; color samples.

Handout: fabric, flow charts, safety briefing.

Technical training aids: computer, multimedia projector.

Lesson type: learning new.

2. Organizing moment

"Scroll"

Read the names of the dictionary words encrypted in this scroll, which will sound throughout the lesson.

Key. Look for the letters of the Russian alphabet.

Vocabulary: decoration, flower, fashion, beauty.

3. Oral frontal survey with demonstration elements

(There is a green chest on the table)

Today to us for our lesson
In the morning from nowhere,
Look, a chest has been sent -
Miracle, emerald color
And wrapped in silver...
Look: a letter on it!
We will read it now.
(I take out a letter and read).
Here, my friend, there is a treasure,
And treasures lie.
And guess what
And then open!

- Let's think about what kind of treasures lie in it?
The chest is old ... Maybe we will find snow-white lace or bright embroidery in it?
So let's open the box! This is such a nice product! Ah, so what is it? Your task is to determine what type of finish on this product?
(The teacher takes out the products one by one, the children name the types of finishes.)
Craftsmen create miracles with their own hands!

- The topic of today's lesson is "Decorative design of a garment." In the course of the previous lessons, you got acquainted with the elements of decoration on the products, and today, during practical work, complete the simplest design of the product - a removable flower - a brooch. This topic was not chosen by chance. In previous classes, we sewed aprons, repaired clothes, that is, made patches, embroidered a little. We touched on this topic one way or another. Let's remember:
- What types of finishes are used in the manufacture of an apron? For decorating blouses, napkins, tablecloths, pillows?
- Is it possible to use these finishes in the manufacture of skirts, dresses?
– Is it possible to make a patch in the form of an application?

Conclusion: We remembered the types of finishes. Thus, one type of finish can be used in various products.

“Now let’s move on to the past.

- Decorations on clothes are known from the Stone Age to our time.

The desire for beauty is one of those properties that have been inherent in man in all epochs. A beautiful appearance helped him feel needed and desired in the circle of those people with whom he communicated. Not without reason, in all religions of the world, people endowed their gods with eternal youth and beauty. And from century to century, one of the most important elements of external beauty was clothes.

Clothing is a set of products (often woven or knitted from various materials) that people put on to cover their bodies.
Clothing is of natural origin (in primitive tribes, clothing is made from plant leaves). It should be noted that clothing traditionally corresponds to the gender of the wearer. Therefore, most often by clothes you can identify a man or a woman.

The most ancient types of "clothes" are coloring and tattoos, which performed the same protective functions as the clothes covering the body. Body painting also protected from the effects of evil spirits and from insect bites.

The emergence of clothing and fashion. clothing- one of the oldest human inventions. The material for clothes, in addition to skins, were leaves, grass, tree bark. Hunters and fishermen used fish skin, sea lion guts and other marine animals, and bird skins. Clothing made from skins before the invention of weaving was the main clothing of primitive peoples. With the advent of weaving, clothing was made from cloth.

At the beginning of the 11th century, fabrics were already of a higher quality. The knights of that era wore long chain mail and greaves with knee pads. They wore cloaks with an embroidered coat of arms. Young ladies wore long dresses with long fitting sleeves decorated with simple color patterns.
Shoes were made of soft leather and embroidered.

A common men's clothing in that era was a loose, open tunic at the neck, intercepted at the waist by a thin leather belt. Tight stockings-pants were sewn, but the shape of the leg. Soft leather shoes had pointed toes, sometimes two inches longer than the feet. Women wore a rather wide, floor-length underdress with narrow sleeves. The top dress of this style had a small train at the back and was sometimes picked up in front both for ease of walking and in order to be able to see the rich fabric from which the underdress was sewn. A wide-cut, long loose cloak of rich fabric with ribbon ties at the shoulders was thrown over the outfit. The shoes were made from soft leather.

The 13th century costume of the man depicted in the drawing can serve as an example of the extravagance of fashion. This wide, baggy robe was both long and short. The figure shows a short version. Long sleeves ended at the wrists with very wide cuffs. High, to the back of the head, the collar was fastened in front at the chin. The tunic was intercepted at the waist by a decorated leather belt. It was the time of the absurd fashion for shoes with long pointed toes (the so-called "pulen" or "krakow"). To be able to walk, they had to be tied to the knee with a gold chain.
Women used simple tight-fitting undergarments, consisting of a one-piece skirt and a bodice fastened in front with a round neckline. The sleeves were narrow, wrist-length, and decorated with buttons from the wrist to the elbow. A hoop was put on at the level of the hips. The top dress was often turned around with fur along the edge. Her hair was completely hidden by a bonnet embroidered with gold and pearls.

At the end of the 14th century, Italian dandies dressed so extravagantly that their outfits looked more like masquerade costumes. A short and unfastened wide tunic ("doublets" - on the left) opened the chest . Sleeves with puffs at the top tightly fitted the arm below the elbow. Over tight, sometimes two-tone stocking pants, short top pants were worn. Three-quarter length stockings were also worn. The toes of the shoes became blunt and wide, the backs were low, and turned away on the sides. A fussy leather belt covered the waist, on which they wore a purse with tassels and a sword. Castor hats in bright colors continued to be an element of high fashion.
The shoes had blunt toes and a low heel. Round hats were in fashion, they were worn by representatives of most classes. A warm cloak or cape was a necessary addition to the costume.

In the middle of the 16th century, the courtiers wore tunics with a lining, a high collar and slits through which the white puffs of the shirt looked through. The slots were sheathed with precious stones and a patterned border. Two white sashes covered the waist, from one of which hung a dagger adorned with gold. The king's legs are covered with white stockings-pants, and the left stocking at the knee is decorated with a royal garter. The wide outer jacket of red velvet is trimmed with sable and richly embroidered with gold cord. Heinrich is wearing a gold chain with precious stones, leather gloves are in his hand.
Queen Jane Seymour is depicted wearing a headdress typical of this time, resembling a sloping roof. The low square neckline of a red velvet dress is embellished with pearl and ruby ​​ribbons. An inverted V-shaped slit down the waist from the waist reveals an embroidered petticoat that matches the color of the long, slit, fake sleeves. Wide cuffs are thrown back and pinned to the elbow. The bell-shaped skirt was sometimes achieved by corrugating the fabric from which the underskirt was sewn. Jewelry consists of rings and magnificent earrings.

Already at the end of the 16th century, the lady's dress had a long, fitted bodice. The deep neckline is trimmed with lace frills. Straight sleeves reach the elbow and end with wide ruffled lace cuffs. For weekend outfits, high, elbow-length gloves made of silk or soft thin leather were always worn.
Looking at the officer of 1678 from behind, we would have seen the justocor in its entire length. This camisole did not have a collar and was fastened in front with buttons and fancy loops. The sleeves flared slightly and ended with turn-down cuffs. From the right shoulder to the left thigh, a long embroidered sash is thrown over the chest and back of the officer, supporting the sword. It is also adorned with ribbon loops known as sword knots. The waist is covered with a silk sash with tassels at the ends. Wide, knee-length trousers were very common. On their feet they wore shoes with square toes and a long tongue from the instep to the ankle, which were fastened with straps and buckles. All noblemen who followed the fashion wore wigs. The wide brim of the felt hat rose high in front.

Lady's dress in patterned muslin, French style, straight, belted at the waist. On the shoulders of the lady is a triangular muslin scarf. The elongated front of the dress is gathered on a ribbon so that it can be tied around the waist. The sleeves are finished with pleated frills. The hat is a huge "mushroom" of white muslin.
He is wearing a tailcoat with tails "with a split"; in front, the floors are cut off above the waist line at a right angle. A tie with lace trim at the ends holds a high turn-down collar. The vest is straight, to the waist. The trousers at the knees are supported by ribbon loops. Black jockey boots come to the knee.

The dress of the young lady on the right is trimmed with ruffles. The bell-shaped skirt is greatly expanded downwards, the upper skirt is several long peplums connected together.
The second lady is wearing a strongly fitted outer garment. The dress is trimmed with galloon, the skirt, very wide at the bottom, has a bell shape. The petticoat, floor-length, is fringed at the hem with a frill. The lady's cap is decorated with flowers and ribbons.

The girl is wearing a velvet dress trimmed with fur; The bodice has a shortened waist. The skirt fastens with three metal or amber buttons. The collar forms a cape at the back and sides at the shoulders and is embellished with a silk collar. The sleeves are wide to the elbow, with folds, then narrow and fit to the wrists. The shoes match the color of the dress.

The fashion of the late 19th century was characterized by terrible extravagance. They preferred chiffon, crepe de chine, lace and other translucent materials. The petticoat was always sewn from silk, and while walking it made a slight rustle. Lace, embroidery, sequins, soutache, flounces, ruffles, pleats - all this served to decorate one dress.

The lady is dressed in a day dress with a bodice that drapes around the body in a V-shape. The skirt is very tight. The sleeves are short, with turn-down cuffs, decorated with long lace ruffles reaching to the elbow. On the head of the lady is a hat decorated with vertically placed feathers with incredibly large brim.
Her companion is wearing a single-breasted day coat, fastened in front with two buttons. A tie is tied to a hard turn-down collar. Trousers are narrowed from top to bottom. The man has a silk hat on his head, soft gloves on his hands, and a cane in his hand.

In the mid-fifties, jackets were single-breasted, almost knee-length, with narrow lapels, fastened in the front in the middle .. Tight trousers - "pipes", usually light, ended at the ankle. The shoes were voluminous, with microporous soles.
Women wear a jacket that widens from the waist and reaches the hips with a narrow stand-up collar. Fitted, with long, to the wrist, sleeves, the jacket was fastened in the front in the middle with three large buttons. The mid-calf length skirt was tight-fitting. Hats were now usually small and sat firmly on the head. They wore gloves on their hands, handbags in their hands. The costume was complemented by light-colored stockings and timeless high-heeled shoes.

In the late 70s, as in the sixties, blue jeans came into fashion and did not go out of it anymore. Although jeans have been worn for a hundred years or even longer - they appeared in France, then came to America, where they were used as miner's, worker's, children's clothing.
The man is wearing a denim suit consisting of trousers and a shirt. On the right in the picture, a young punk girl ("panchetta") with a matching hairstyle - a bright red "mohawk" (shaved temples, hair standing up in the middle of her head) and outrageous coloring on her face. Punk jackets are usually leather, often with numerous metal fasteners, buttons; T-shirts or nets were worn under jackets. High lace-up boots or boots on the "platform" wore short, ankle-length socks. Punks love exotic and ethnic jewelry. The tattoo on the face and hands was fashionable among both men and women. Bandoliers were often tied around the hips as an additional decoration.

In the eighties, cropped skirts became an international fashion.
On the right is a "cropped silhouette, designed tight-fitting jumper with a high collar and long sleeves. A mini-skirt, straight and narrow, with side pockets, reaches mid-thigh. A wide belt is tightened at a narrow waist. Accessories consist of long, well above the wrist, contrasting gloves and a large, flat, round hat, dark flesh-colored tights, and high-heeled shoes.

From 2000 to 2010

Nowadays, various finishes, which were mentioned above, are very widely used.
Finishes complement and decorate products, emphasize certain shaped lines, sometimes finishing functions in them are combined with purely utilitarian ones (finishing with buttons, zipper, etc.). Now, most often, all kinds of accessories are used as decorations (buttons, “zippers”, buckles, etc.) and various finishing materials (braid, cord, soutache, ribbons, brushes, lace, sewing), as well as flowers, knitwear, natural and artificial furs and leather. The decoration of dresses with various appliqués, hemstitches, embroidery, which is performed with woolen and silk threads, beads, glass beads, is widely used. Finally, another group of finishes made from the main or finishing fabric is widely used. These are all kinds of piping, inlays, flounces, ruffles, frills, finishing stitches, ironed assemblies, pleats, rudders, scallops, puffs, tucks, small folds, etc.

Spring collection 2011

5. Physical culture break

Performing 4-5 exercises for relaxation, posture correction, gymnastics for the eyes.

“Women have only one opportunity to be beautiful, but there are a hundred thousand opportunities to be attractive!”, I would like to start practical work with these wise words of Montesquieu.

Today we are talking about finishing:
In it very often fashion is the essence.
Don't be afraid to try, take a risk.
Finishing can be different:
To be permanent, to be removable.
And our costume is quite ordinary
Finishing may change.

Do you remember what we talked about in the previous lessons? (We studied the topic "Finishing light clothing")
– What did we learn in these lessons? (In the lessons we learned to cut and process ruffles, flounces, frills)

- To check how much you have mastered the concepts of this topic, let's remember mathematics, fill in the table and find out the key words used in decoration.

45 - 44 = ? 26 - 20 =? 2 + 4 = ? 5 + 6 = ? 7 + 3 = ? 17 - 15 = ? 37 - 36 = ? 7 - 4 =? 4 + 6 = ? 19 - 15 = ? applique

13 - 3 = ? 17 - 14 = ? 8 + 2 = ? 47 - 42 =? 19 - 15 = ? 28 - 26 =? frill

7. Practical work

- I propose to make flowers from the most unexpected materials. You will be making different fabric rose flowers. You can decorate your hair with these accessories, you can dress.

Flowers can be decoration throughout the year: these are birthdays, anniversaries of all kinds, solemn meetings, graduation parties and, of course, not a single wedding ceremony is complete without the presence of flowers. Wedding bouquet of the bride, a wreath that adorns the elegantly trimmed head of the bride.

Safety briefing.

– Let's repeat what basic rules of safe work you must always and everywhere follow.

• During manual sewing, the needle must be ...
• We stick the pins into the fabric in the direction ...
• While working with an electric iron, stand on ...
• During operation, the scissors must be ... with ...

- In today's lesson, I propose to make a rose flower (group work).

1 - variant rose "jellyfish" - II gr. and III gr.
2 - option rose "bud" - I gr.

- In the first lesson, we will complete the first stage of making a flower.

- You have instruction cards for making a flower, which you will rely on while working.

I gr. - works independently.
II gr. - works according to the finished cut.
III gr. - work with ready-made squares.

8. Summary of the lesson

- What did you learn in the lesson?
– What did you get?
What do you remember most about the lesson?

• Presentation of your work.
• Evaluation of work.

- In the next lesson, we will continue making flowers. I would like to finish the lesson with the words:

The hands of people can make any miracle:
And flowers can weave across the white field,
And embroider the golden sun across the blue sky,
To become more beauty on earth.
I will pick up a thread and a simple rag,
And a little fantasy and magic -
And I'll sew something that you can't even dream of.
Only for beauty to live on earth!

– I really hope that what you learned today will be useful to you in your life. Do not be afraid to create, reach for the beautiful. You will succeed!

Classification of types of finishing of garments.

Surface finishing of materials and products using adhesive materials.

Chemical methods to give various surface effects to clothing items.

Finishing the details of garments made of thermoplastic materials with welded stitches and seams.

Chemical methods of volumetric finishing of clothes.

Chemical technology for obtaining clothing accessories.

Wardrobe finishing of garments.

Consumer properties of garments are inextricably linked with the coloristic and artistic design of materials and clothing details.

Finishing parts, assemblies, products is aimed at increasing the artistic expressiveness of clothing and giving it a marketable appearance (lecture 1). This group of chemical technology methods began to form much earlier than the others.

Jewelry appeared before the costume. At first, man began to paint himself with material extracted from the earth, plants, and animals. Later, the Indians began to apply an ornament in the form of a tattoo on the body, which had long been kept on the skin.

Some nationalities emphasized the expressiveness of their body by artificial deformation (increase or decrease) of its individual parts, which can be considered an impetus for the deformation of materials used in the manufacture of clothing. Thus, all methods of decorating the human body: drawing, color, deformation of its parts, hanging decorations that existed before the advent of clothing were transferred to clothing.

Clothing, and in particular its decoration, has gone through a number of stages of its historical development. Currently, the range of clothing finishes is very large.

All types of finishes according to the method of their manufacture can be conditionally divided into 3 groups:

Surface finish;

Volumetric finish;

Additional accessories (removable finishing details).

To superficial include finishes made directly on the surface of clothing parts, the spatial shape of the material of the product does not change.

Volumetric finishing provides a three-dimensional shape of the product and its individual parts by changing the spatial arrangement of the material of the product. Volumetric finishing can be conditionally divided into movable and fixed. A fixed finish is such a three-dimensional form that does not change and is usually fixed with the help of additional materials (threads, gaskets, adhesives): puffs, tucks, decorative quilting. Movable volumetric finish provides some freedom to change the original shape: draperies, folds, etc.

There are finishes made mainly by mechanical means, i.e. achieved by physical influences (thread, riveting connection, heat treatment), and finishing, the operations of which are associated with the impact chemicals and processes(Fig. 1).

The adhesive method of manufacturing finishes (appliqués, emblems) consists in the fact that the fabric intended for obtaining finishing elements is combined and pressed with an adhesive cobweb, adhesive mesh or film on a press or iron, using a fluoroplastic film as an iron. After that, cut or cut out (depending on the available equipment) trim piece of a given configuration, which is attached to the parts by heat treatment.

In products made of cotton fabrics, the material for application is duplicated with a polyethylene film on a press at a temperature of 1205 0 C, a pressure of 0.05 0.01 MPa and exposure time 35 5 s.

To attach the appliqué to the base material, BF-6 glue can be used: the part of the fabric appliqué is moistened, allowed to dry slightly, two layers of glue are applied, allowing each layer to dry. The application is applied with a surface on the front side of the part and glued on a press or iron (pressing surface temperature 150-180 0 С, ironing 160-190 0 С, pressure 0.01-0.05 MPa, pressing time 20-90 s, depending on the type fabrics).

Hot melt embroidery It is carried out on an embroidery fabric in the form of blanks-embroideries, the front side of which is obtained with silk threads, and the wrong side - with a glue thread. The blank-embroidery is made on a special heat-resistant fabric substrate, which is completely destroyed when glued. The remains of the destroyed structure of the auxiliary substrate are removed. Gluing the workpiece is carried out on the details of the cut or on finished products using a press or iron at a temperature of 150-170 0 C and a pressure of 0.02-0.05 MPa for 5-50 s.

Adhesive embroideries, appliqués are resistant to cotton and washing.

The quality of finished products largely depends on the quality of finishing work.

Final finishing includes: cleaning of products, final wet-heat treatment; sewing loops, sewing on hooks, buttons; attaching a belt and sewing on various trims; acceptance of QCD, packaging and delivery of finished products to the warehouse.

Product cleaning. The finished product is cleaned of threads, the ends of the threads are cut, traces of chalk lines are removed from the front side and from the inside. Dresses and blouses made of wool are cleaned with a hand brush, and items made of silk fabrics are cleaned with pieces of the base material.

Final wet-heat treatment of products. The final wet-heat treatment of the finished product is performed with an electric steam iron on an ironing table with a special block and on a steam-air mannequin. The collar is ironed from the front side, straightening it and straightening the piping towards the lower collar by 0.1 cm.

If the model has a cutout, without a collar, then the neckline is ironed along with the shoulder seams, while making sure that the neckline is not stretched.

The sleeves are ironed on a special block. All seams of the sleeves are ironed from the front side (there should be no jams on the seams), while ironing the sleeves. If there are darts on the sleeves, then they are ironed at the same time as the seams are ironed. The hem of the bottom of the sleeve is ironed simultaneously with the bottom. Ironing of cuffs, frills, ruffles is performed from the front side, carefully straightening all the wrinkles and irregularities. The shoulder seam and darts should be well ironed: the shoulder seam towards the back, the shoulder darts towards the middle of the back. The collar of the sleeve and the armhole are ironed so that the seam allowance for inserting the sleeve is directed towards the sleeve. The hem of the bottom is ironed together with the dress put on the ironing table, and when processed on a steam-air mannequin, the bottom of the product is folded in half (back and shelf) and ironed on the ironing table. The clasp is ironed on the front side. At the same time, make sure that the board is free of jams and has not been extended. The board with loops should be ironed especially carefully. Breast darts are ironed from the side seam on the front side. The end of the tuck is ironed according to the model.

To iron the product in the area of ​​the side seams, the dress is put on the ironing table face up. The side seam is straightened with a vacuum pump and ironed. If the seam is not laid out, then it is ironed towards the middle of the back. Seams should be ironed without kinks. Seam allowances for connecting the bodice with the skirt are ironed towards the bodice. Overhead parts (pockets, valves, ties, etc.) are ironed during the ironing of the entire product. They should be ironed evenly, without kinks. Folds ironed at the bottom should have a pronounced fold. Loose folds are ironed according to a pattern or along a shared thread, the folds of the folds should be pronounced. When processing the product on a steam-air mannequin, the dress is carefully put on the mannequin, fastened with all buttons (otherwise, when steaming, jams are obtained). Straighten the bottom of the dress, straighten it on the shoulders, steam and dry.

In the absence of a steam-air dummy and a special table with an electric steam iron, the final wet-heat treatment is performed with an iron weighing 3–4 kg using pads and boards covered with cloth and covered with white cotton fabric. In this case, the product is turned inside out and ironed first on the sleeves on a special block, then the entire product on the board and lastly the collar. The sides, collar, belt, cuffs and bottom of the product are ironed from the front side through the iron.

Loops are baited on a special or universal machine with threads in the color of the fabric in compliance with specifications

Button sewing. The locations of the buttons are marked through the eyes of the loops with a special pencil. Buttons are sewn on special machines or manually. Sewing on buttons by hand is done with a double folded thread. Buttons with four holes are sewn with two through stitches, and with two holes - with three or four through stitches in each pair of holes, while the stitches are not tightened, forming a rack with a height of 0.1 - 0.3 cm, depending on the thickness of the fabric. The rack is wrapped around with several turns and fixed. Finishing buttons and buttons with an eyelet are sewn without a stand. The top button in products that can be worn with lapels is sewn on with only one layer of fabric.

Buttons covered with fabric and soft shaped buttons made of fabric are sewn behind the bottom of the button and, depending on the purpose, with or without a stand. Places for sewing hooks and buttons are marked according to the model.

Hooks and metal loops are sewn on a special machine or manually. The number of stitches is three to four in each hole and around the bend of the hook. Buttons are sewn by hand with stitches over the edge. The number of stitches is three to four in each hole.

Sewing on the belt and trim pieces. The belt is attached to the right side seam on a special machine or manually. When attaching the belt manually, first make three or four stitches 0.7 - 1 cm long, connecting the belt with the product, then the stitches are wrapped around. Bartack length 0.7 - 1 cm.

The finishing collar and cuffs are sewn to the product on a special blind stitch machine or manually with blind hemming stitches 0.3 - 0.5 cm long with threads in the color of the finish.

The finished garment without finishing is unattractive to the consumer. In order to "revive" the product, to decorate it, quite a lot of methods and types of technological equipment that implement them are known. Recently, special attention has been paid to the finishing of products.

The leading direction in the field of finishing is embroidery which is getting more and more popular every year. Embroidered products and simply embroidered fabrics look very impressive and can add exclusivity to even the simplest products. And the diversity of the assortment and the elegance of the product are beyond doubt.

Big successes were achieved by Tajima (Japan), Barudan (Japan), Sun-Star (South Korea), ZSK (Germany), Melco (USA). The constructive variety of equipment for embroidery is great. So, the number of sewing heads in the unit ranges from 1÷2 to 20 or more. The number of replaceable colored threads is from 6 to 15. The embroidery field of one head reaches a size of 450  550 mm; stitch length - from 0.1 to 12.7 mm. Sewing speed up to 1200 rpm (with a stitch length of 2÷3 mm), and sometimes 1500 rpm. The equipment can reproduce paintings by famous artists on fabric using colored threads. A general view of one of these installations is shown in Figure 1.

Rice. 1. Embroidery machine

The improvement of this technique goes in the following ways: the amount of memory is increased, the number of sewing heads is increased (up to 60 pieces), devices for automatic replacement of bobbin in shuttles are introduced into the design; various finishes are combined in one setting: embroidery, appliqué, cord stitching, chain stitch embroidery. The dimensions of the products that can be fixed in the clamps of the machine are reduced.

The combination of well-known embroidery machines with a laser installation is especially effective. Here the possibilities of the artist can be realized much more fully. It can create multi-layered compositions of a complex profile, engrave, make applications from various materials, including foil. It is possible, for the sake of fashion, to imitate scuffs, holes. The cut spot diameter is approximately 0.2 mm. Laser cutting is very accurate and accurate, does not depend on the complexity of the contour; programmable, like embroidery. It allows you to perform such a complex type of finish as "richelieu". At the same time, the edge after trimming on fabrics containing synthetics is melted, and shedding is prevented.

A few words about stitch . The well-known stitch “diamonds” or “waves” is a primitive that is a thing of the past.

Today, stitch is approaching embroidery. Laying a cord, ribbon, stitching with sequins (sparkles), beads, glass beads is used. The control is carried out not by cams, but by a computer through servomotors, and therefore the complexity of the drawing is limited only by the artist's imagination. The shuttles are not "boat", but rotary; this made it possible to increase the operating speed from 600 to 1000 rpm. Paired needles allow you to get compressed firmware. The tension of the material during rewinding from roll to roll is carried out by compressed air.

The scope of embroidered fabrics is very large: curtains, tulle, drapery of walls and openings in buildings, furniture covering, bed linen, elegant evening wear (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Stitch patterns

The fashionable direction of finishing today is the processing of products hand stitch . Lines consisting of such stitches are laid on men's jackets, women's jackets, shirts. And if it used to be really a line made by hand, which is slow and expensive, now special machines have appeared for this purpose. Some of them imitate hand stitch, but there are those that completely repeat the stitch made by an experienced tailor.

In this case, the machine needle has a sharp point on both sides and an eye in the middle. Two collet clamps pass it, threaded, to each other. The mechanism is quite complicated, and besides, the thread during sewing repeatedly passes through the needle hole, which leads to a loss of its strength, and manufacturers recommend special threads for these machines.

Naturally, the work of such machines is more productive. As an example of such a machine, let's call the DECO-2000 ATT of the American company AMFReese. Finishing lines are laid on it, for example, along the side of the jacket, on slots, darts, on leaflets, on pockets.

Recently, machines have appeared for attaching finishing touches to clothing. thermoplastic elements using ultrasonic generators. Such equipment is manufactured by V1VISIONTECH.CO (South Korea). The machine under the brand VHS-540 has two baskets (bunkers), which accommodate two types of fittings. Piece by piece, the fittings are automatically fed into the working area and, with the help of simultaneous heating and ultrasonic action, the finishing element is attached to the fabric. This double action increases the strength of the connection. With a simple switch, the operator can switch from one type of fittings to another, that is, to supply from one basket, then from another (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Ultrasonic installation for attaching fittings

clothing (rhinestones, sequins)

The same firm demonstrated a setup combined with a lockstitch sewing machine and a needle feeder. sequins (sequins) separated from the metal strip. When sewing, the needle enters the hole in the sequin and attaches it to the product. Sequins can be sewn close to each other or at intervals. The feed rate is changed by means of a cam mechanism.

Another interesting machine was developed by SALLI (South Korea). The thermoplastic tape is rewound from cassette to cassette. A punch is installed in the working area, which knocks out a small flat figure from the tape, which is immediately attached to the surface of the fabric due to ultrasonic heating. Substituting various parts of the fabric under the punch, you can get a bright finish of a rather interesting shape.

For finishing products from more dense, non-flowing materials (cloth, thin leather), the SRC-50 machine from SALLI is used (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Finishing machine for dense materials

In this machine, a roller on which a pattern is applied is used as a working body. Under the influence of ultrasonic frequency waves, the pattern of the roller, when rolling it over the fabric, perforates this fabric, carving small holes on it, which together forms a kind of hemstitch. New original finish.

Laser drawings, welding devices for attaching finishing strips, installations for making numbers and all kinds of inscriptions on T-shirts, jackets, bags, scarves are used in decoration.

Until now, drawings and inscriptions were applied by silk-screen printing. This is a method of applying paint through a stencil. But at the same time, if the image should be multi-colored, you need to superimpose several layers (again through a stencil) on top of each other. Hence, the quality is not always good, and the productivity is low.

The modern method of printing on textiles is a method of directly applying a pattern to the fabric using a printer, similar to those that are widely used in office work (Fig. 5).

The images are very clear, almost photographic quality. There are no color restrictions.

Water-based ink is used for drawing. To the touch, the image does not differ from the main fabric. The pattern is fixed at a temperature of 150–185 °C using a heat press, which makes it possible to achieve complete fixation of the colors on the fabric.

The inks that are used in printers do not adversely affect human skin, as they are water-based inks. Modern technology provides the possibility of full-color printing on fabrics with different fiber composition. The equipment is supplied by Brother (Japan), AnaJet (USA).

Rice. 5. Textile printer

Another type of finish drawings and inscriptions made on the basis of thermal transfer films. Scope - work and sportswear. The finish is bright, clearly visible, highly resistant to washing, dry cleaning, and aggressive external manifestations.

Rice. 6. Press for installing hooks, loops, buttons on clothes

Film inscriptions are made of thin films (only 55÷60 microns), which, when exposed to heat, are welded to the product, forming, as it were, one whole with the fabric.

Thermal transfer films are made from polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride. They also include glue. It is activated by heat and penetrates the structure of the fabric, and when cooled, it polymerizes, fixing the pattern.

To obtain such a finish, you need a cutting plotter (this is a well-known printer that has a knife instead of a print head) and a heat press. Equipment and films are offered by Zenon (Germany).

Gutos (Germany) demonstrated a system technique (Fig. 6) for installing various types of buttons, hooks, loops, clips on clothes, which, in addition to their main purpose of “holding something”, can also have a finishing function - to decorate clothes. These fittings can be metal and plastic, smooth and patterned. Sometimes the buttons are made with covered fabrics; the same from which the clothes are made or, conversely, contrasting.

The finishing of denim products stands apart. Now new jeans go on sale in such a form as if they had been worn for a long time: faded paint, local scuffs, even holes - these are the requirements of fashion. This is achieved by cooking in a washing machine with special stones (such as pumice) and with biologically active substances - enzymes. These technologies are very complex, but today they are well developed. Firms such as Tonello (Italy) or Novozymes (Denmark) supply equipment and chemical components in the required quantities.

Washing and chemical processing equipment for denim is similar to washing machines used in laundries, only larger and stronger in design.

The machine (Fig. 7) consists of a fixed frame on which a waterproof housing is mounted. A drum rotates inside the body, divided into sections by longitudinal plates. In the body there is a hatch for loading workpieces, stones and chemicals.

Fig.7 Jeans steamer

finishing garment equipment fabric

The volumes of the machines (there are various options) are designed for a mass of 100 to 600 kg of dry jeans.

The machine performs soaking, washing, boiling, bleaching jeans, and in some designs also spinning.

When the drum rotates, the jeans are lifted by dividing plates to the upper part of the drum, from where, under the influence of their gravity, they fall down. The process is repetitive and takes approximately two hours; when using enzymes - 20÷30 minutes. During this time, scuffs form on the fabric, jeans take on a faded, worn look.

After squeezing, wet jeans enter the separator (Fig. 8), where stones and sand are removed from the products. Then the jeans are dried and ironed.

Rice. 8. Separator for extracting stones from products after cooking

For the last operation, a press and steam-air dummies are used (Fig. 9).

Generally speaking, in the field of finishing garments in recent years, such a diverse and productive technique has appeared, with such technological capabilities, that from a very laborious and expensive process, this process has become common and affordable even for small enterprises.

Rice. 9. The final operation in the finishing of jeans

I would like to note the following detail: for finishing, methods that have been known for a long time, but undeservedly forgotten, are being revived. We are talking about applying chain thread lines to the product. Machines that perform such finishing were also produced in the USSR by the Poltava Legmash plant. The machine had the designation VM-50. Now, of course, production is closed.

However, some firms, in particular NV. A. DEKONINCKSA from Belgium successfully sell this equipment of various modifications.

The base machine in the group - CornelyLG3 (Fig. 10) has a flat platform, under which there is a thread guide mechanism and a machine control handle. The process of loop formation is carried out by a needle having a hook near its tip, the mentioned bypass and a pressure capsule. With the help of these organs, a single-thread chain stitch is formed, while the loops in the chain are formed from above on the material being processed.

The movement of the semi-finished product is carried out by a transport foot, which has a working surface in the form of a ring. The thread in the machine is fed from below through the wire guide. The machine is used to perform about a dozen different lines. In her arsenal:

Chain single-line tambour stitch;

Line type "moss" (we often call it "lamb") for continuous filling of some areas of embroidery;

Various types of spirals;

Sewing on ribbons, cords, soutache;

The line of "whip", etc.

Machine speed 1100 rpm. Threads - all types: cotton, wool, silk, synthetic. Processed materials in a fairly wide range, up to the skin.

Of particular interest is another machine of the same company CornelyLG. It is used for making hems on towels, bed linen, blouses, curtains, tablecloths. With the help of two needles, two shuttles rotating in a horizontal plane, special piercers and an expander, a shuttle zigzag stitch is formed, fastening the transverse threads of the fabric into columns - the so-called openwork stitch. Openwork width up to 8 mm, openwork pitch up to 5 mm.

The described equipment is very interesting for sewing enterprises of small capacity and it is too early to write it off.

Rice. 10. Manual embroidery machine

Modern equipment for finishing stitches is successfully produced by the Japanese company KANSAYSPECIAL. She creates her technique on the basis of a flat chain stitch with various types of cover thread. The engine of the mechanism that provides the supply of the cover thread, in some versions of the machines, is carried out using replaceable copiers, which makes it possible to obtain various finishing effects.

Multi-needle machines of the same company are interesting. With an increase in the number of needles, it is possible to increase the width of the finishing thread strip up to 150 mm.

In the field of wet-heat finishing of garments, the technical park consists of traditional ironing tables and tables with steam generators, presses with various types of pillows, steam dummies. True, all of them are made on a new elemental basis in control systems.

Wet heat treatment (WTO) is one of the most difficult stages in the manufacture of clothing, the quality of which depends on the dimensional stability and appearance of the product.

WTO is an intensive process of heat and mass transfer that occurs in a very short time and is accompanied by a mechanical effect on the material.

Under the influence of heat and moisture on the material, the action of intermolecular forces in the fibers is weakened and they acquire a state called elastic. The material in this state is easily deformed.

By subjecting the material in an elastic state to pressure, thinning and bending of the edges are carried out, folds are formed, and irregularities and creases on the surface are eliminated. Deformation causes a change in the configuration of molecular chains. The removal of moisture from the material and its cooling after deformation contribute to the establishment of a bond between molecules in a new state. Due to this, the deformation given to the material is fixed.

The quality of the product largely depends on the WTO. The necessary processing modes have been found experimentally and by calculation, and non-compliance with them leads to marriage, often not removable. The WTO process can be represented as a continuous cycle consisting of four stages:

1) orientation of the semi-finished product relative to the working bodies;

2) humidification and heating of the material to transfer its fibers into an elastic state;

3) deformation of the material by pressure of the iron or press on the treated area;

4) drying and fixing the resulting deformation.

Humidification is done with water or steam.

Wetting with steam has a number of advantages compared to wetting with water: uniform wetting and accelerated WTO due to the rapid heating of the material and the almost complete absence of gloss on the surface of the material (las).

Drying of the material and fixation of the resulting deformation occurs in the process of removing excess moisture under the influence of a heated ironing pad or iron. With forced suction of moisture vapor, the process is more intensive.

The choice of WTO modes for products is an important, responsible and very difficult stage. Incorrectly selected modes lead to the appearance of las, external and internal opals, thermal shrinkage, fusion of the pile, spots, and discoloration.

Specific modes are quite well developed and described in detail in the literature. The main types of wet-thermal operations are given in the table.

The main types of wet-heat operations

To perform wet-heat treatment operations, irons, ironing tables, presses, and steam-air mannequins of various designs, sizes and power are used (Fig. 11-13).

Rice. 11. Types of irons

Rice. 12. Press for the WTO of the collar and cuffs of a men's shirt

The tone is set by Macpi (Italy), Veit (Germany), Rotondi (Italy) (Fig. 14).

Rice. 13. Steam dummies

in the section of wet-heat treatment of men's shirts

The same firms produce installations for pre-sale preparation of clothes. Since the production of mass types of garments has moved to the countries of Southeast Asia, they come to Europe in huge quantities in bales, containers, in bulk. Naturally, they wrinkle. On the mentioned installations, the products in a closed chamber on hangers are blown with warm air of a certain humidity and straightened out. Then they are packed in polyethylene and hung up for sale.

It should be noted that at the final stage of the manufacture of garments, a serious point is the need to maintain the quality achieved by all previous processes. For this purpose, stacking equipment and packaging installations have been created and are being mass-produced.

From all that has been said, it is clear that the technical achievements of today make it possible to bring to mass consumption without distortion all the artistic merits that the author has invested in the model he created.

Rice. 14. Equipment for wet heat treatment

The finishing section, where the products are given the final (marketable) appearance, is also equipped with equipment that facilitates labeling and packaging. This is the last, very important link in the entire production chain. It depends on it in what condition the product will reach the point of sale or other place of sale of products, that is, ultimately, to a specific consumer.

Many companies deal with packaging issues, but there is still a lot of manual labor in this area. In principle, the packaging of small and simple products (pants, T-shirts, towels, socks, bed linen) was mechanized quite well. Reasonably solved the process of folding and packing shirts in plastic bags. And because these products are on sale in a form that evokes only positive emotions in the consumer. Colorful sealed bags, bright cardboard boxes.

The packaging and transportation of jeans products is simply solved.

But the packaging of suits, coats, dresses is still waiting for its optimal solution. So far, the best thing today is a product worn on a shoulder hanger and closed in a plastic bag. Transportation of products is carried out in a suspended form on the same hanger.

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