Mesh embroidery, or, as it is also called, fillet embroidery, is a great way to create a truly unique thing. Embroidery is based on the effect of empty and filled grid cells, which together form a certain pattern. Embroidery on the grid looks unusual and original, things resemble antique ones. The embroidery technique is very old, but quite simple and suitable for a large number patterns. It is also possible to adapt patterns for crocheting in loin technique to embroidery in this technique.

For embroidery in fillet technique, a mesh is first of all needed. You can make the mesh yourself, or buy it ready-made in needlework stores.

You can make a network yourself in several ways:

1. You can cut the mesh from the fabric. To do this, you need to cut the threads in the fabric at equal intervals and pull them out so that you get a mesh. Traditional embroidery is often performed in this technique;
2. With the help of a special shuttle, the mesh can be woven. In this case, a classic net is obtained, a similar technique is used when weaving a fishing net or net - string bags;
3. The mesh can be crocheted. Mesh is a very simple knitting pattern that even a beginner can easily master. To form empty cells, double crochet stitches are alternated with several air loops, and the stitches are knitted strictly on top of each other. The loin crochet technique is based on the same technique. Knitted items made in this technique are very reminiscent of embroidery on a grid.

As already mentioned, you can also buy a finished mesh in the store. When buying a mesh, you need to pay attention to the size and location of the mesh cells. The size of the finished work will depend on their size. In a classic grid, the cells should be located strictly above each other, and not diagonally.

The pattern on the finished grid is formed by filling in some cells, the rest of the cells remain free.

Learning to embroider on the example of a simple pattern "Heart"

Cut the finished mesh to size. We need a 15x13 cell blank:

As you can see in the picture, the pattern itself is much smaller, but it is necessary to leave a few cells on each side to attach the mesh to the frame for embroidery. It is necessary to embroider on a well-stretched and fixed grid, otherwise the pattern is deformed. For convenience, the network can be sewn or glued (for example, with construction tape) to a sheet of thick cardboard a little larger than the blank. You can sew the workpiece with running stitches or a “back needle” seam, the main thing is that the network holds tight and does not stretch. If the net is made of very soft threads, it can also be dipped in gelatin diluted in water to shape it, then spread on a horizontal surface and allowed to dry. Dried gelatin will give the product rigidity (a sample of mesh attachment can be seen in the figure)

For convenience, the pattern in the form of crossed out cells can be transferred directly to the cardboard mount.

Embroider marked pattern

We fill the widest part of the heart horizontally with a “darning” seam. Such a seam is used when you need to fill a large number of cells in a row. One stitch of a darning seam closes a large number of canvas cells at once, forming a kind of “flooring”. The seam is performed as follows: the needle is passed alternately under the cell, then above it, and so on until the end of the row to be filled. In the next row, the stitches are placed in a checkerboard pattern relative to the previous row, until the cells are completely filled. Finished embroidery similar to "braid".

However, in our case, you need to embroider not only horizontally, but also vertically. In order for the embroidery on the grid to lie flat, we embroider as follows:

• We embroider two rows in one cage with a darning stitch;
• We proceed to filling in the vertical rows (the stitches will be superimposed on the horizontal ones and intertwined with them). Rows should be filled in sequentially, leaving no gaps. Weave the threads at the junction of the vertical and horizontal rows in the same way as when working with a mesh: alternately draw stitches above and below the main thread (see the figure for an example of filling the cells of the horizontal and vertical rows)

Horizontal rows should be filled from top to bottom, interlacing them with vertical ones. Be careful when processing corners: Only the cells marked with an “x” should be filled in, otherwise the pattern will not work.

Having embroidered half of the pattern in this way, as shown in the figure above, we reach the moment when it is impossible to continue embroidering without breaking the thread. In order to continue the embroidery, it is necessary to stretch the thread along the edge of the already embroidered cell. This method of embroidery helps to correctly and accurately process the edge of the embroidery.

The technique for wrapping the thread around the edge of the product is shown in the figure below. The thread must be pulled under the point "a" and above the point "b" (the product in the figure is shown from the side). Then the thread must be pulled through the side loop so that it does not tighten the loop. After that, the thread can be pulled under the point "c" and continue to embroider the pattern.

We continue to embroider the pattern to the end, stretching the thread along the edge of the pattern. At the moment of completion of the embroidery, you need to return almost to the starting point from which the embroidery was started.

We complete the embroidery

You can do this in several ways:

• Loosen the end of the thread at the starting point of embroidery. Carefully tie the end and the beginning of the thread together, try to tie the knot so that it is flat and does not stand out from the background of the pattern.
• Pull the thread along the edge of several embroidered cells of the finished work so that the thread is securely fastened. Then the thread can be cut.
  The choice of how to fasten the thread depends on the personal preferences of the craftswoman and on the thickness of the thread when embroidering. If the thread is thick enough, it is better to finish the work in the number one way, because. otherwise, the border of the pattern on one side will look much denser than on the other. The knot in this case will look more neat.

The finished embroidery can be used as an independent gift, for example, by inserting it into a photo frame. However, it can also be used as decorative element in the design of various products self made or gifts.

Preface 5
MANUAL NET WEAVING
1. Materials for weaving nets 7
2. Tools and devices for weaving nets -
3. Preparatory work for weaving nets 10
4. Netting -
Netting with oblique loops 11
Netting for baby beds 21
Weaving bags "string bag" -
Hair net weaving 26
Netting with square loops -
Weaving square mesh 27
Mesh weavingrectangular shape 32
Netting in various shapes 33

HAND FILET AND GUIPURE EMBROIDERY
1. Embroidery materials 35
2. Appliances and tools for embroidery F.36
3. Preparatory work for embroidery 38
4. Types of stitches for embroidery 40
Darning stitch -
Seam "flooring with wrapping" 41
Plain stitch 42
Seam "eight" 47
Chain stitch 52
Air stitch 55
Cross stitch 58
Scallop stitch 59
Decorative seams 61
Overcasting stitch 63
5. Figures for embroidery -
Darning stitch 65
Horseshoes 67
Fan 69
Ribbed spider 70
Ribbed diamonds -
Gossamer 72
Embossed leaves -
Fungus 76
Darning teeth 80
Scalloped Star 81
Edge chain of diamonds (rings) 83
Chamomile 86
Paws 90
Figures made of stretched threads 94
Leaves of stretched threads -
"Repeek" 191
Star of stretched threads 105
Figures filled with linen seam NO
Figures filled with an air-loop seam 116

FILLET AND GUIPURE PRODUCTS
1. Embroidery fillet and guipure products 123
Fillet napkin with butterfly 124
Guipure doily 128
2. Brief description of fillet and guipure samples 129
Loin products 130
Guipure products 134
Appendix 143

FOREWORD

Hand filet weaving of nets and embroidery on them are known since ancient times. This work is divided into two types: 1) weaving nets for various napkins, capes, lace, runners, tablecloths, etc. and 2) embroidering patterns on a grid with various seams, giving the nets the look of elegant lace products.
The technique of weaving fillet nets is borrowed from the ancient types of weaving fishing nets. But for sirloin work, nets are woven in small loops (cells) of thin threads.
Fillet nets are woven using simple devices. Loops (cells or cells) are formed from threads that are tightened with knots.
It is recommended to first master the weaving of nets with larger loops, and then weave nets with small loops. Therefore, in the book, before weaving sirloin nets, weaving of nets for children's beds and a shopping bag is described.
The weaving technique is very simple. But the implementation of large meshes requires a lot of time. To save it, you can use ready-made meshes of factory production. On them, as well as on hand-made nets, various patterns are embroidered, creating beautiful and elegant products.
Embroidery on the grid is filet and guipure.
Fillet embroidery is performed on grids with smaller cells. An embroidery pattern is selected such that it would not fill the entire background of the grid. Unfilled cells give the product transparency. For embroidery, 2-3 types of the most dense seams are used.
Guipure embroidery is performed on grids with several cells. bigger size. The drawing should fill almost the entire background of the grid. For embroidery, 4-6 types of various seams are used, filling the cells less densely than in sirloin products, and giving lace products to guipure products.
Patterns for sirloin and guipure products are made up of individual figures.
Fillet products are washed in the usual way. Guipure products, unlike loin, are recommended to be washed stretched on the hoop. To do this, a brush is moistened in warm soapy water and it is carried out several times over the finished product. Then rinse the product with warm blue water. To starch the product, thick starch is made and a piece of gauze is dipped into it. This gauze wipes the product from the front and back sides so that all the threads are saturated with starch.
The book uses folk terminology, such as "eight", "chain", "spider", etc.

MANUAL NET WEAVING

1. MATERIALS FOR NET WEAVING
Nets are woven from cotton bobbin, linen and silk threads, as well as from cord and braid. The choice of thread depends on the type of mesh. For children's beds, nets are woven from white twisted cord or braid; nets for balls are woven from durable cotton or silk threads of various colors. Nets for sirloin and guipure work are most often woven from white, strong bobbin linen threads, but not too twisted. Nets for napkins, tablecloths, paths and pillow covers are best weaved from bobbin six-complex threads No. 10 and three-complex threads No. 10 "Extra". Thinner nets with small loops (cells) are woven from six-fold threads No. 30 and 40. Thick nets are woven from “especially strong” threads: No. 1, 2 and 0.
Grids with patterns applied to them, made with white threads, are easier to erase and more practical than colored ones.
2. TOOLS AND DEVICES FOR NET WEAVING
To weave nets, you need to have the following tools and devices (Fig. 1): shuttle 1, plate 2 or rod 3 and heavy pillow 4.
A shuttle (needle) is a metal or wooden plate or rod with forked ends. Threads are wound on the shuttle, from which loops are woven.
Depending on the purpose of the mesh, the thickness of the threads and the size of the loop, shuttles are used different types and sizes (numbers). Shuttle length 200 - 350 mm, thickness 2 - 7 mm.
The plate (plate) or rod, on which the loops are strung, can be metal or wooden. The dimensions of the plate or rod also depend on the purpose of the mesh, the thickness of the thread and the desired size of the loop. The finer the mesh, the thinner the rod should be.
Shuttles and plates (or rods) should have smooth, rounded and polished edges so that the loops do not cling, are even and slide well.
The pillow is used as a support for work. An auxiliary loop of cord or strong thread is attached to the pillow, and a shuttle thread is tied to the loop. The support must be heavy, stable, so that when tensioned, the mesh does not move.
Instead of a pillow, another support is used - the back of a bed or a heavy chair
Below is a description of the various shuttles and records. Shuttle No. 1 (Fig. 2) is used for weaving nets for a children's bed. The shuttle is made of birch, maple, linden,
pines. One end of the shuttle is widened, pointed and has a notch with a tongue; the other end has a forked shape.
The plate to the shuttle No. 1 is selected wooden. On fig. 2 shows the dimensions of shuttle No. 1 and the plate. All dimensions in fig. 2 - 5 are given in millimeters.
Shuttle No. 2 (Fig. 3) is used for weaving "string bag" bags. This shuttle is made of metal plates: steel, copper or duralumin. Unlike shuttle No. I, a through cut is made at the end of shuttle No. 2 instead of a tongue; thanks to him, more threads can be wound on the shuttle.
The plate for the shuttle No. 2 is selected metal or wood with a thickness of 3 - 5 mm. On fig. 3 shows the dimensions of shuttle No. 2 and the plate.
Rice. 4. Shuttle No. 3 and rod
Shuttle No. 3 (Fig. 4) is used for weaving fillet nets, on which patterns are embroidered. The shuttle is made of non-brittle steel wire with a diameter of 2 - 3 mm. The ends of the shuttle on both sides have the same forked shape. The ends of the forks should be in close contact so that during the weaving of the net they do not cling to the threads of the connected loops.
The rod to the shuttle No. 3 is selected in the form of a round stick 4 - 6 mm thick. On fig. 4 shows the dimensions of shuttle No. 3 and the rod.
Shuttle No. 4 (Fig. 5) is used for weaving thin segok with loops (cells) of small size. On these grids, you
lace, stitching, napkins, etc. are made. The shuttle is made of steel wire 1.5 - 2 mm thick. Shuttle No. 4 looks almost the same as Shuttle No. 3. The difference is only in size (see picture).
The rod for shuttle No. 4 is selected in the form of a round stick, but thinner than for shuttle No. 3.

3. PREPARATORY WORKS FOR NET WEAVING
Before you start weaving the net, you need to wind the thread or braid around the shuttle. Threads or braid must be wound evenly. It is necessary to take the shuttle with four fingers of the right hand and press it with the thumb.
The thread is tied to the prong of the fork or looped around the fork of the shuttle and begin to wind.
The thread is wound tightly (6 - 7 turns) around the shuttle along its plane. Then the thread is wound on one edge of the shuttle in such a way that the thread lies in the form of a figure eight, i.e., crosswise. After 6 - 7 turns, the shuttle is turned to the other side and the thread is wound in the same way on the other edge.
The thickness of the wound shuttle should correspond to the size of the loop (cell) of the mesh, i.e., the shuttle with the threads wound on it must pass freely through the loops (cells) of the mesh. In addition, the thickness of the shuttle winding must correspond to the width of the plate or rod used for this mesh.
If too much thread is wound on the shuttle, then the loops will stretch when weaving and the mesh will not turn out uniform. If too few threads are wound, then the product will have many knots from the frequent winding of threads on the shuttle.
After winding the shuttle, you can start weaving the net.

4. NET WEAVING
In different meshes, the loops have different shapes.
In nets for cots, shopping bags and other loops, the corners of the loops are slightly elongated. We will call such loops oblique.
Loops in nets for loin and guipure work have a square shape.
The first loop is made the same for all meshes, and the following loops are performed differently. It is easiest to weave nets from large loops. Therefore, it is necessary to start learning to weave nets not from threads, but from cords or braid.
These materials are used to weave nets for a baby bed or a string bag, i.e. products with oblique loops. Only t having learned to weave them, you can start weaving thin nets with square loops.

NET WEAVING WITH OBLIQUE LOOP
The loop, as indicated above, is formed with the help of a shuttle, plate or rod. Weaving the first loop can be divided into 10 tricks.
Reception 1st (Fig. 6). From a cord or a strong thread, make a large (auxiliary) loop a (15 - 20 cm).
This loop is attached to the cushion or back of the chair. A thread of 1 shuttle is tied to the loop. They take the shuttle in the right hand, press it with the little finger and ring finger to the palm. Three fingers (thumb, index and middle) should be free to take the shuttle thread or intercept it when tightening the knot.
Reception 2nd (Fig. 7). AT left hand take the plate, clamp it between the thumb and forefinger and hold it with a slight inclination to the middle finger. Then the plate is moved to the knot where the shuttle thread is tied; while the middle finger should be moved away from the index.
Reception 3rd (Fig. 8). The thread to form a loop b is circled around the middle finger of the left hand and the plate. Raise the thread and wind it to the left, crossing thread 1 from above, lying on the plate. Then bring the thread of the shuttle under the thumb of the left hand.
Reception 4th (Fig. 9). thumb slightly press the end of the thread. Right hand throw the continuation of this thread in a semicircle up into loop a and lower it behind the plate
and. fingers of the left hand from the back.
Reception 5th (Fig. 10). The middle finger is slightly moved away from the plate for more free movement of the shuttle into the formed loose loop b between the plate and the middle finger. The shuttle is inserted from the bottom up into the loop b and into the auxiliary loop a.
Reception 6th (Fig. 11). The shuttle is pulled through two loops and the thread is pulled up; the little finger delays the thread freely following the shuttle - a loop is formed c.
Reception 7th (Fig. 12). The thread is lowered and pulled down over the plate. Then the thread is released from under the thumb, while freeing the middle finger from loop b.
Reception 8th (Fig. 13). Move the plate to the end of the auxiliary loop. At the same time, the right hand continues to pull the thread down. At the same time, the little finger of the left hand pulls the loop to. Correct pulling of the loop in the little finger is necessary to obtain loops of the same size. Loop b tightly wraps around the plate. As a result of these movements on the edge of the plate at the end
Rice. 11. 6th reception of weaving the first loop
Rice. 13 8th reception of weaving the first loop
loops a, an loose knot is formed, which is pressed against the plate with the index finger.
Reception 9th (Fig. 14). With the right hand, continue to pull the shuttle thread down. At the same time, on the little finger, the loop in gradually decreases.
Reception 10th (Fig. 15). The little finger is released from the loop in and tightly tightened into a knot. The first loop is ready.
The second loop r is done in the same way (Fig. 16). The thread of the shuttle is again wrapped around the middle finger and the plate. The thread is thrown in a semicircle upwards and by repeating the previously described movements weave a loop r. Then weave the third and subsequent loops.
In the future, you need to remember that how many knots there will be, so many loops.
A mesh with oblique loops can be woven in several ways. Let's consider two ways.
Method 1. The first loop is woven as described on pages 11 - 16. All subsequent loops of the first row are woven in the same way as the first, that is, they are strung on a large (auxiliary) loop. Finished loops remain on the plate until the entire row is woven (Fig. 17).
Rice. 15. 10th reception of weaving the first loop
If you need to make a lot of loops and they all do not fit on the plate, then all loops are removed from it, except for the last two. Next to the loops remaining on the plate, the next loops of the started row continue to be weaved. Then all the loops of the row will be the same size.
Beginning of the 1st row
When the first row of the grid is ready, the plate is taken out, the auxiliary loop with the loops strung on it is turned (Fig. 18) and the second row of loops is started to weave from left to right in the same way. But when weaving the second row, the shuttle is carried out not into a large (auxiliary) loop, but into the loop of the first row. In order for the loops to be of the same size, it is necessary to ensure that the plate, at the beginning of the formation of the loop, is brought to the point o (Fig. 19, above) of the loop of the first row. All the following rows are woven in the same way (Fig. 19, below).
Method 2. This method differs from the first one in that the loops of the first row of the grid are not strung on an auxiliary loop, but are woven in a chain. The chain is woven as long as the width of the product should be.
Rice. 19. Weaving loops of the second and next rows of the grid
Form the first loop, as described on pages 11 - 16. The first loop turned out to be equal to one turn of the thread around the plate, that is, half the loops of the second and subsequent rows. It is difficult to drag the shuttle with the threads wound around it into this small loop. In order for the shuttle to pass freely, move this first loop along the cord of the large auxiliary loop and increase it by means of the thread of the large loop, remove the plate from the first loop and turn the auxiliary loop.
To the end of the first loop, the plate is again brought up and the second loop is woven. The shuttle is carried out to tie a knot
in the auxiliary, and in the first loop; a knot is tied at the end of the first loop. Then the plate is taken out of the second loop and the third loop is made in the same way as the second, and so on. This is how the entire chain is woven (Fig. 20).
When the chain is woven to the desired length, the cord from which the large auxiliary loop is made is removed, and the chain is ready. It serves as the basis for the grid.

Good afternoon - today I am uploading an article in which I will show and tell in detail what beauty you can do with your own hands using sirloin knitting crochet. Special FOR BEGINNERS I will show in drawings knitting rules and techniques additional cells needed for curly knitting loin napkins and blouses. That is, this article will not only MANY SCHEMES… but also clear lessons with descriptions and photo ideas for your creativity. And all this is free.

Here are the questions I have combined it into one post.

• Examples the use of filet knitting in the decor of the room (napkins, tablecloths, curtains, curtains, borders, pillows).
• Examples of using loin knit in creation T-shirts, tunics, skirts, jackets and shirts(I even specific example I will show you exactly how to create a sirloin detail of a T-shirt or shirt without a pattern).
• Schemes RECTANGULAR filet knitting (where you do not need to be able to add and subtract edge cells). I will give small diagrams for beginners (to practice loin technique) and big schemes to create fillet paintings.
• FIGURE lessons sirloin knitting for beginners(I'll show you how to subtract and add cells to get curly contours of a napkin or tablecloth).
• A few descriptions of how to use LITTLE sirloin knitting in creating large tablecloth for table.
• Lots of schemes figured napkins with loin patterns - and for the NEW YEAR .... and patterns of HEARTS for Valentine's Day ... and loin pictures in the kitchen in the form of a cup of coffee. So, let's start ....))

FILLET PATTERNS crochet for interior decoration.
(napkins, tablecloths, curtains, pictures, pillows)

Most beautiful patterns crochet are obtained on napkins made using the loin mesh technique. It is thanks to fillet knitting that roses, poppies and oak leaves with acorns can bloom on napkins.

On filet napkins you can do fabric inserts. As for example, in the bottom photo, where we see textile squares in the center of the rectangular sigments of knitting.

A sirloin napkin or tablecloth looks crooked - against the background of bright textiles of juicy shades. As in the photo below.

In the filet knitting technique, you can knit a border for a tablecloth ... and even a border terry towel(first photo below). In the form of a filet pattern, decorative openwork curtains in the kitchen can be made. Curtains can be made in the form of a patterned sirloin mesh. The curtain fabric is starched and holds its shape and pattern well.

Filet knitting can serve as a passe-partout for photographs or paintings. Fillet paintings can also appear on your pillows ... roses, ships, birds, cats and whatever your heart desires.

You can make a set of sirloin napkins for breakfast - on a tray, napkins-stands for hot mugs.

You can make a curtain on a window with elements of a loin mesh ... or curtains on a doorway.

BUT FILLET KNITTING is not only napkins and pillows…

Having mastered the technique of this quick knitting, you can create fashionable unique wardrobe items for yourself.

It is possible in the technique of loin knitting tie a T-shirt – it's simple.

You need to get a pattern. To do this, you need to take your usual T-shirt. Put it on a piece of wallpaper - circle it with a pencil (fold vertically in half) so that the right silhouette of the T-shirt coincides with the left. If there is no mirror match, then cut off one side of the T-shirt pattern(left or right, whichever looks better, leave that one). And then from this silhouette, fold the whole pattern - circling it 2 times (normally and mirrored) on a new piece of wallpaper. And get a one-piece T-shirt pattern.

And more is needed start knitting - from the bottom up. Dial such a number of cells of the loin pattern - so that the row in length matches the bottom of the T-shirt pattern. And then knit a sirloin pattern - repeating the outlines of the pattern - then adding cells in a row ... then subtracting them (when you get to the waist, or to the armhole line).

Or you can save an old blouse with a stain. Cut off the sleeves from the shirt... rip them open (and get finished pattern future sleeve for fillet knitting). And in the same way, cut off the shelves of the shirt (halves of the front) - and you will get a pattern of the shelf. And then knit loincloth - then subtracting, then adding the number of cells in a row– so that the contours of your knitting fabric repeated the contours of the silhouette of your shirt detail (back or front front).

GENERAL PRINCIPLE

for loin knitting RECTANGULAR pattern.

(we will talk about curly patterns a little later).

All these beautiful sirloin things are knitted according to the same principle. Empty cell + filled cell alternate - and a mosaic pattern is obtained.

For one empty cell- knit 1 double crochet and 2 airs.

For a filled cell- knit 3 columns with a crochet

Start each row from 4 air loops rise (instead of the first column of a new row).

Finish each row with one double crochet in air loops lifting the previous row.

HOW TO START THE FIRST ROW OF LOIN KNITTING.

THE MOST SIMPLE FILLET SCHEMES

FOR BEGINNERS.

If you have never created a fillet pattern, then to gain courage it is better to start with small schemes. With straight square or rectangular knitting fabric. Take and knit a mini napkin. For example, knit such a white house ... and sew it on black fabric ... it will become the background. And all this can be placed under the frame and hung on the wall like a small picture - or decorate with it. gift wrapping. Get new year gift with such decor packaging is very nice ...

THIS NAPKIN WILL LOOK BEAUTIFUL WITH WHITE THREADS ON THE BACKGROUND OF THE COFFEE FABRIC. They also tied it up - they put a fabric on the back and framed it on the kitchen wall ...

You can make a whole series of such pictures for the kitchen ... here I found cross-stitch patterns ... If you remove the black filling of mugs from the patterns ... and leave empty cells instead.
Then we will get beautiful contours of coffee utensils that can be knitted using loin technique. (As you understand, two-color embroidery schemes ARE SUITABLE AS FILET KNITTING PATTERNS).

The subject of your pictures can be anything. - and you can apply them later. For example, if you simply insert a knit in the center of a white fabric, you get a tablecloth with a sirloin insert in the middle.

And small elements of loin knitting can then be used to create patchwork tablecloth to the kitchen. Or sew a loin piece of knitting to your sofa cushion.

As you can see... even small ones trial patterns in small schemes can get a long life in your interior.

Therefore, train on small patterns and fill your hand and patience for large feats of loin knitting.

And if you chose to knit round shape napkins - then you need to know how to decrease and add the number of cells along the edges of the row ( so that the canvas is rounded). I will talk about this in detail in the same article - a little lower.

And then, when you fill your hand and understand that the sirloin mesh canvas is created very quickly(grows before our eyes) you will want to tie something larger. And for this I found these beautiful schemes for soothing fillet knitting. With a theme that everyone loves. What could be more soothing than a cat on the window.

True, it's great to tie such a picture yourself and place it in a frame, placing a bright contrasting fabric of a matte, non-shiny color under the reverse side.

Direct scheme of filet napkin with roses.

Here, especially for flower lovers, I give a DIRECT scheme for a sirloin napkin. Here you do not need to add cells along the edges - just take them in a straight line, alternating empty and filled cells.

And you can also tie a straight napkin with LACE - already with any openwork pattern crochet. Here is an example of such a doily with a lace border in the photo below.

How to EDGE
square fillet napkins.
Border schemes.

A knitted sirloin napkin around the edges has a sloppy look. Therefore, it must be bordered - crocheted around the perimeter - that is, on all sides of the rectangle.

Where can I get schemes for such a BINDING BORDER.

It's very simple. Search the Internet for schemes of square napkins - and in them you select rows along the edge of the napkin. That is, as if mentally erasing the stuffing of the napkin - and leaving only the edge rows of the scheme.

Below I found square napkins - I erased the inside from them and I was left with diagrams of only the edge parts of the napkin. These pieces can be used as ready-made schemes for tying your square fillet flaps.

The angle of such a binding maybe with a hole-arch of air loops or filled with a fan of columns.

In the diagram below - in the first row at the corner of the arch of three airs. And in the second row, columns are knitted into this arch.

You can do it like this ... you decide how best to turn the corner

You can make a magnificent border - into a hole from the arches of air loops

You can take a more complex pattern of square corner strapping - from any square napkin pattern.

Here is a square napkin for you - ANY ROW OF ITS - can become a pattern for your border. Cut it out - circle it with a felt-tip pen so as not to go astray and work. Or find any other square pattern.

HOW TO ROUND IT CORRECTLY

sirloin knitting
(rules of subtraction and addition of cells in a row).

And now it's time to figure it out how to crochet FIGURED shapes from a sirloin mesh. That is, I will tell you in detail how to add cells in the rows ... and how to subtract them.

After all, to create curly(for example, oval) napkins need to be constantly then add cells in a row - along the edges so that the canvas expands into a circle ... then subtract cells so that the canvas tapers into the top-crown of the circle.

How to add ONE EMPTY CAGE - with right edge knitting.

How to add TWO EMPTY CELLS - with right edge knitting.

How to add an EMPTY CAGE - c left edge knitting.

How to add ONE MORE empty cell next to the empty added.

How to add a FILLED EDGE cell in a new row on the RIGHT.

How to add a FILLED EDGE cell in a new row on the LEFT.

and if in the next row you need to add another full edge cell, then the principle is the same.

HOW TO REDUCE a cell from the edge (when the number of cells in a row decreases)

FIGURED CELLS (in the shape of the letter M).
Sometimes curly cells are found in sirloin diagrams ... they are drawn on the diagram in the form of a figure similar to the letter M ...
They knit like this.

The diagram below, just in the central part, contains these very M-shaped elements of the loin pattern. That is, these are elements that violate the even squares of the grid. To set another background tint.

And here in this pattern with violins- also in the central part there is this pattern in the form of the letter M ... By the way, the diagram below, with violins - this is HALF of the pattern - on the left the pattern is mirrored. That is, it is entirely SQUARE - and it turns out 4 violins meet in the center of the square with their pegs.

And now - when you have seen and understood the whole principle of subtracting and adding cells in a sirloin pattern (both empty and filled) - you can knit oval sirloin napkins ... and round ones ... and in the shape of a heart (yes, even in the shape of a teapot).

And now I'm posting you new FIGURED patterns with loin nets.

Schemes of napkins with a fillet crochet pattern.

SCHEMES of loin napkins with an UNEVEN edge.

I post here schemes with roses. Since roses are the most popular theme of patterns that you want to knit on a napkin or tablecloth.

The uneven edge of the napkins is obtained from the addition and subtraction of cells along the edges of knitting. Exactly as I showed in the pictures a little higher in this article.

SCHEME EQUAL oval napkin.

Such an even-oval napkin can then be tied in a CIRCLE with any openwork knitting crochet. This must be done so that its edges do not look so lonely - and the napkin has a complete look. You can even make a simple strapping - double crochets - so that the edge has a tight border.

The scheme of the fillet set is from an oval napkin and a round one.

Here in this sirloin grid scheme there is an interesting point. If you look you will see that the roses are darker in the diagram. That is, the scheme consists of TWO TYPES of filling cells with columns .... Just filled cells (three double crochets) ... and volume-filled cells(column + two crossed columns + column).

Thus, we get a VOLUME rose that stands out in relief on the canvas of our sirloin napkin.

Fillet crochet patterns

for Valentine's Day.

On Valentine's Day you can do loin patterns in the form of a heart. From can be placed in a frame against a background of bright fabric. Or sew on a pillow. Or crochet the edges of such a sirloin heart with crocheted lace to get napkin on the table. Such knitted valentine napkins can be given to friends. This is a gift that is easy and quick to crochet with your own hands.

NEW YEAR IDEAS loin knitting.

Here is such a filet New Year's scheme can be depicted on the pillow. It looks beautiful when knitting is made of white threads, and pillow background bright blue, or festive red.

Can be knitted small crochet Christmas pictures. It is good to pull such a New Year's sirloin net over a wooden frame and hang it on a door or window.

And here is a long sirloin pattern - you can knit sirloin curtains from it and hang them on the window during the Christmas season.

Same on New Year you can crochet just such a square napkin with angels. Or this scheme can decorate a pillow.

Can be a gift tie the icon in loin technique. Put a golden background behind and pull it over the plywood and insert it into the frame. And to give for Christmas - a kind and bright gift for Christmas.

And now let's talk about LONG sirloin crochet patterns.

FILLET BORDER - schemes of beautiful patterns.

Long sirloin patterns can be used as an elegant openwork flounce border.

She can decorate CURTAIN… it can be sewn on along the edge of the tablecloth... it can hang on the window as an independent decoration ... it can even tear off the towel.

Here are some more small examples of border patterns.

HERE ARE APPROXIMATE CHARTS for this use of fillet knitting.

Here are a couple of small patterns

But the pattern is wider.

And of course the pattern sirloin net with roses - crochet very quickly (because it is not so wide).

And here is the sirloin mesh pattern - in the form of a border with butterflies.

And here is an example corner pattern- it is suitable for a tablecloth - where a border is needed around the entire perimeter, including corners. This sirloin scheme is also good because it knits quickly due to the small number of cells in a row.

FILLET KNIT inside the cloth of the tablecloth.

Or this one long pattern can be used as insert into the body of the tablecloth to the holiday table.

As you can see, everything is simple here - we take any long pattern - we measure the size of the table and the size of the future tablecloth. We buy fabric - we calculate WHAT SQUARE of the tablecloth we will leave in the center - and what width of the filet pattern we want ... And we work.

We knit a pattern and constantly apply it to the central square of the tablecloth- so as not to get carried away and not bandage it too much. Here it is important to think over exactly how the pattern will TURN AT THE CORNER = you need to come up with an angular combination of patterns that came from both sides. Can first knit without corners- just long drawings of all 4 sides of the tablecloth - and then think about what pattern to connect them together (draw the knitting of the corner square and tie it).

And by the way it is not necessary to use a pattern with a STRAIGHT SMOOTH EDGE for the inner insertion into the tablecloth ...
You can also fit a curly jagged strip perfectly inside the tablecloth. For example, like in the photo below.

Curtains in the technique of loin mesh.

Repeating border patterns can be used to knit CURTAIN and CURTAIN.
Any napkin pattern can be modified to fit a curtain pattern.

Schemes for curtains with birds you can use different...

That is, it is not necessary look for ready-made schemes for curtains - you can take an element from the napkin scheme as a basis and apply it on curtains.

Here are some ideas loin knitting I have collected today for you in this article.
Now it's up to you. Show what your patience and work are capable of.
Fillet knitting knits very quickly.

You will like SPEED, with which they appear finished goods in your hands.

Work with pleasure. Let everything work out.

Olga Klishevskaya, specially for the site

If a grid is used when embroidering, then this method is also called fillet embroidery or, more simply, working on a grid. The essence of this method is that some cells are filled, and the rest are left empty. The result is original pattern. Such products resemble antiques and look quite interesting.
The manufacturing technique has its roots in the fourteenth century. At first it was used to decorate bed linen and tablecloths. The nineteenth century is the heyday Victorian style. During this period, clothes were decorated with lace or embroidery, often loin. At the same time, silver, gold threads and expensive yarn were used.

The easiest way is to purchase a fillet net in a specialized store. But if you want, you can make your own. For this you need:
1. In a piece of fabric, make cuts at the same distance, forming a grid. It is this option that can be used for the traditional method.
2. Weave a net using the shuttle. This allows you to get the classic version of the net used by fishermen.
3. Weave the mesh with a hook.
Regardless of the mesh manufacturing method, it should be remembered that the result of the work is affected by the size of the cells and their location. At classic version the holes should be clearly one above the other, but in no case diagonally or offset.
If the network is already prepared, a pattern is applied to it. To do this, some empty cells must be filled in a certain order. All others will remain free.

Technique

First you need to decide on the size of the embroidered product. After that, the mesh is cut, leaving a small margin. It is necessary in order to be able to fix the base on the frame for embroidery. To attach the network to the frame, you can use glue or construction tape. If the frame is thick cardboard, then the net can simply be sewn on. An important condition is that the network must be well stretched. If it is made of thin threads, then it is better to soak it first in diluted gelatin, and then dry it in a horizontal position, straightening it well.

Darning stitch

The embroidery process itself should begin with the simplest patterns. A darning stitch is best for filling in the widest part of the pattern. It is it that is used if it is necessary to fill many holes in a row. You need to perform it like this: the needle should pass either under the hole or above it throughout the entire row. In the next row, the same action is performed, only in a checkerboard pattern. The result looks like braid.

vertical seam

In fillet embroidery, after filling several horizontal rows with the stitch described above, it is sometimes necessary to fill in vertical rows as well. Vertical seams should be superimposed on horizontal ones, as if intertwining them. In this case, no gaps are allowed. If you have to break the thread, then it would be more correct to stretch it along the edge of the embroidered hole. This will allow you to neatly process the edge of the picture.

Seam flooring

Another simple seam is flooring. When applying it, you must first fill in all the cells, and then circle the contours of the pattern using the “needle forward” seam, and then also in the opposite direction.
Often, needlewomen use a mosquito net in their work. But it should be taken into account that its cells are not at right angles to each other. Therefore, the embroidery process has some differences, and the pattern is obtained diagonally and it should start from the corner. In this case, the work takes place in this order: the thread is attached in the lower left corner of the previously prepared rectangle. It is stitched up diagonally, following the pattern. In this work, you can use threads different color.

Final stage

At the time of completion of the drawing, the thread often returns almost to its original position. There are several ways to complete:
1. Even at the beginning, leave a small end of the thread. After completing embroidery, tie the beginning and end of the thread with a knot. It should be very small and flat, almost invisible against the background of the embroidered pattern.
2. The end of the thread can be gently pulled along the contour of the embroidered cells, this will allow it to be securely fastened. After that, the rest of the thread can be cut off. The choice of method of fastening is influenced by the thickness of the thread itself. If it has a large thickness, then it is better to fix it with an inconspicuous knot.

Starch if necessary.

The finished product of thin threads can be starched. This will add to her rigidity. To prepare the liquid, you need to dilute half a teaspoon of starch in one liter of water and mix thoroughly. To make the liquid viscous, add a little hot water to it and remove lumps. The embroidered product should be well saturated with the prepared solution. It is better to dry it unfolded on a towel. After that, it can be sewn to a solid, denser fabric, and decorate the edges with lace or crochet a beautiful pattern.
She looks very nice on the lids gift boxes, it is sewn, like inserts, into tablecloths and towels. Often there are curtains with fillet inserts. In this case, the threads are not used in color, but matched exactly to the tone of the fabric. This will create a more delicate pattern.

Filet-guipure creation

Its difference is that needlewomen have to work with large cells, and the drawing must fill almost the entire network. At the same time, seams are used very different, applying them not as tightly as usual. The result is more openwork and subtle patterns.
It is interesting to note that now fillet lace can be made not only by hand, but also on sewing machine. This will save a lot of time.
Very often, the pattern on the grid is combined with crochet. Such products look very chic and have a royal chic, especially if they contain complex rich patterns. Similar products have been preserved since royal times.

Video master “File embroidery on a grid”

Grid embroidery and its execution technique (video)

Mesh embroidery or fillet embroidery is a great way to help needlewomen create beautiful and unique things. It is based on the embroidery of empty and filled cells. When they are put together, the desired pattern is obtained.
Ready-made embroidery on the grid will look original and unusual. Things created in this way resemble expensive antiques. The technique presented below is a simple one that will work for a large number of patterns.

Preparation for work

To get started, you need a grid. You can make it yourself or buy it at a craft store.
Several ways to independently create the basis for embroidery:

• the mesh is cut out of the fabric. To do this, you need to cut the threads of the fabric in certain places and pull them out;
• for weaving the warp, you can use a specially designed shuttle. At the end of the work, a classic grid is obtained;
• Crochet. Mesh is simple pattern, which even a novice needlewoman can knit. To make empty cells, you need to alternate double crochets along with air loops.

When buying a finished mesh in a store, you need to pay attention to its size and arrangement of cells.


Tips to help you while embroidering:

Mesh embroidery technique

Embroidery on the grid can be done with multi-colored threads. This rule does not apply to embroidering curtains;

Varieties of methods for embroidering on a grid

Such embroidery can be done in two different ways- This is darning and weaving.

How to finish embroidery on the grid

Any embroidery on the mesh must be properly finished. You can get the job done in a few easy ways:

Needlewomen can choose for themselves the most optimal way to fix the working thread on the grid. special attention in such a case, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the thread used for embroidery. If it is thick, then it is better to finish the work using the first method. Otherwise, the borders of the pattern on one side will look ugly and more dense.
Finished embroidery can be used as an independent gift. Some needlewomen insert their work into photo frames to give friends and loved ones a gift. It can be a unique decorative element during the design of a variety of handicrafts.

Application of grid embroidery in the modern world

There are several basic ideas that will help you use ready-made patterns embroidered on the grid:

• thanks to this product, it can be used as a stand for hot dishes;
• embroidery can be stretched onto a cardboard frame to become part of a large number of decorations, or a lid for gift boxes;
• it is customary to decorate towels, tablecloths, and many other things with embroidery patterns on a grid.

Master class for embroidering stripes on a grid

Experienced needlewomen recommend using a mosquito net for work, because it has certain differences from a plastic canvas. This basis includes the main advantage - the arrangement of rows of cells is not at right angles. Craftswomen can break the finished work into optimal squares. The direction of embroidery should only go from the corner and strictly diagonally.

Grid embroidery will help all needlewomen create excellent and unique things of their kind. They can be a great gift or present for any event.

Video: different mesh embroidery techniques

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