A very important characteristic of a hair curling chemistry is its pH.

The higher the pH value, the more active the effect of the chemical composition on the hair and the greater the likelihood of complete destruction of bonds and dissolution of hair keratin.

Alkaline permanent hair curler

Alkaline permanent is a classic composition, the main component of which is thioglycolic acid.

This chemical composition is used for curling healthy and natural hair and creates an elastic curl. Its pH is 8.5-9.5 (depending on the ammonia content).

The disadvantage of an alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful vapors of hydrogen sulfide, which, when inhaled, can cause various side effects in a person - headache, malaise, dermatitis. Therefore, it is very important to ensure that the premises of hairdressing salons are very well ventilated.

Classical alkaline compositions today are no longer so aggressive on the hair due to the presence of substances in them that heal the damage already existing on the hair and weaken the effect of the chemical composition for waving on these places.

Acid-balanced permanent hair curler

Neutral and acid-balanced hair curling chemistries were introduced in the 1970s.

These compounds do not contain strong alkalis and are therefore less harmful to the hair.

The main component of these chemical compositions is glyceryl monothioglycolate.

These solutions have a pH (5-7) lower than that of an alkaline solution, that is, closer to the pH of the hair and scalp.

The drug begins to "work" only after it is mixed with the activator. When mixed, a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition is heated to a temperature of 40 ° C, which significantly speeds up the process of curling hair.

The action of an acid-balanced permanent is much softer than an alkaline one, but the curl is less elastic. Since this composition penetrates into the hair more slowly than alkaline, the hair curling process lasts a little longer.

This type of permanent is used for naturally weak, tired, heavily colored hair.

The disadvantage of this composition is that it is less resistant, and the curl does not last very long on the hair. A feature of the acid composition for curling is that, due to the small swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and weather influences, and curls and waves look more natural. When working with this drug, it should be remembered that both liquids are mixed immediately before use and the resulting composition cannot be stored.

Soft alkaline perm hair

The sparing solution of the permanent on amino acids does not cause any harm to the hair compared to the usual alkaline one.

When performing chemistry, the hair receives a protein treatment course, due to which the structure of damaged hair improves, and the curl is more durable.

The drug is almost odorless, does not cause any harm to the skin and respiratory organs. But the risk of allergies when using this composition is higher than when using a conventional alkaline composition.

All modern drugs intended for perm hair, must meet several important requirements:

1. ensure stable and long-term preservation of curls - not less than three months.
2. Do not affect the natural color of the hair.
3. Contain in its composition special substances designed to ensure proper wetting and impregnation of the strands.
4. Have a slight smell of perfume fragrance and do not cause allergic reactions.
5. Be easily washable.

REFERENCE: One of the most important characteristics inherent in perm hair formulations is the pH level.

The higher its value, the more active effect it has on the state of the hair structure, and, therefore, to a greater extent contributes to the destruction of keratin.

Depending on its composition and the nature of the impact on the hair, distinguish the following types of compositions for perm hair:

• alkaline permanent;
• acid-balanced permanent;
• soft alkaline permanent;
• gel-like agent;
• foam permanent.

For each of the above types characterized by their individual characteristics, Advantages and disadvantages.

Pros and cons of each type of drug

Alkaline permanent is a classic option means for perming curls of any type. Its basis is thioglycolic acid. Depending on the amount of ammonia content, the pH level of such formulations can vary from 8.5 to 9.5.

Alkaline permanents used for exceptionally healthy hair. The main advantage of this composition is creating elastic curls that do not lose their appearance over a long period of time.

However, such drugs have a number of significant disadvantages:

1. a strong and unpleasant odor resulting from substances such as hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan.
2. Aggressive effect on the hair structure - thinning and weakening it.

Acid Balanced Permanents based on glyceryl monothioglycolate. They begin to act only after mixing with the activator - as a result of this, a chemical reaction occurs, in which a significant amount of heat begins to be released and the composition heats up to approximately 40 degrees and, therefore, the process of curling curls is significantly accelerated.

Among the main advantages inherent in this type of compositions, it should be noted:

• pH level, as close as possible to natural - from 5 to 7;
• softer and more gentle action compared to alkaline options;
• the possibility of application for weakened, as well as frequently dyed hair;
• obtaining a beautiful and lasting result.

The disadvantage of acid-balanced permanents is the slow action, which makes the procedure take a long time.

Soft alkaline permanent, based on amino acids, has the following advantages:

1. the absence of an unpleasant pungent odor and harm to the respiratory system;
2. soft and gentle effect;
3. the most natural result.

The disadvantages of this type include the low stability of the result, as well as the occurrence of allergic reactions in the presence of individual intolerance to the components.

A permanent gel-like texture, is widely used in cases where it is necessary to beautifully curl regrown roots.

note This tool is the best option for short hair.

The advantages of this type of perm include:

• maximum ease of use - just squeeze the required amount of the product from the tube and evenly distribute it over the hairline with a brush.
• Using a comb instead of bobbins to form curls into the desired shape.
• The absence of aggressive components in the composition.

disadvantages this remedy does not have.

The best means for the procedure

Many famous manufacturers offer high quality perm products which can be successfully applied both in professional hairdressing salons and at home. Consider, which options are the most preferred.

Chemical perm technology.

Conclusion

Modern compositions for perming hair have a delicate composition and do not destroy their structure. The assortment of many manufacturers includes high-quality compositions that every lady Can be used even at home. Choose best option and enchant with flirty curls!

Beautiful wavy curls have always been the pride of a woman. But what if nature has not endowed the lady with delightful curls? Nowadays, nothing is impossible, and in order to make your hair curly, you can use a perm. The procedure can be done both in the salon and at home. About how to do it at home and will be discussed further.

About perm

How to make a perm at home? There is nothing complicated in this, just follow the instructions described below.

It is a difficult procedure and allows you to temporarily become the owner curly hair. This styling helps to look well-groomed always. It is really possible to do a perm without leaving home. Before it is carried out, it should be borne in mind that even the most gentle products harm the hair and completely change their structure.

Types of hair curling

There are several types of perm hair, these are:

• Acid. Provides a long-lasting effect and secure hold. Suitable for any type of hair. Severely damages curls. After it is carried out, a number of restorative procedures are required.
• Alkaline. This is a softer type of perm than acid. Helps create the effect of natural curls. Lasts a long time, but not suitable for all hair.
• Neutral. It is the most gentle method. Helps create wavy curls along the entire length, regardless of their condition and type.
• Amino acid. Suitable for owners of weakened and fragile strands. It not only curls curls, but also nourishes them with proteins and amino acids during the procedure.

Professional stylists come up with new ways to get curly hair every day, but despite this, many women are wondering how to do a perm themselves at home.

Preparatory stage

Before you do a perm at home, you need to prepare for it. Twenty days before the event, curls cannot be painted. It is not superfluous to conduct a test for sensitivity to drugs before a perm. To do this, apply a little money behind the ear and wait a day. If an allergic reaction does not follow, then the product can be used and, conversely, in case of irritation and rash, it is better to refuse to use the drug.

Before this event, you should see how the chemical reagent will act on the hair. To do this, a small curl is treated with a curling compound. If after a couple of minutes the strand breaks, then the concentration of the solution is halved. The procedure is repeated on the other strand. If the hair is still torn, then it is necessary to abandon the perm and pay attention to the restoration, strengthening of the hair.

All products for this event must match the type of hair. For long bobbins, choose a larger diameter, for short ones, a smaller one. Be sure to assess the condition of the hair before curling. Weak strands should not be subjected to such an event.

Before the procedure, the curls are moistened, which improves the absorption of the chemical solution, reduces the exposure time of the drug, makes the curl more natural and injures the curls to a lesser extent.

Tools for the job

Before you do a perm at home with "Lokon", you need to prepare the tools. For the procedure you will need:

• a comb with sparse teeth and a pointed end;
• curlers with a latch or bobbins of the desired diameter, about 50-80 pieces;
• non-metallic containers;
• foam sponges;
• plastic clips;
• beaker;
• gloves, as well as a bandage for the head;
• cellophane cap;
• two towels.

To create curls, you can use not only Curl, but also ready-made perm kits.

In addition to tools, you will need citric acid or vinegar at a concentration of 6% or 9%, a shampoo that restores the balm that is applied to the hair after “chemistry”, a nourishing cream or petroleum jelly.

Stages of curling "Curl"

To learn how to make a perm at home with "Lokon", you need to carefully read the instructions for the drug. Chemical perm with this tool is divided into three stages: perm, neutralization and fixation.
Each step of this procedure has its own characteristics and is necessary for obtaining beautiful curly strands.

Curling with "Lokon"

How to do a perm at home (a photo of the result of the procedure can be seen below), will be discussed further. To carry out the procedure, you should:

• Divide your hair into several sections. Each strand is processed by "Lokon", combed and wound on bobbins (curlers). After all the hair is twisted, it is covered with a plastic cap and a towel. FROM this moment curling time is counted.
• The period of exposure for all hair is different. On soft strands, the drug is kept for up to 20 minutes, on normal type hair - up to 16-18 minutes, on hard curls - no more than 10-12 minutes.
• After the specified time, you should deploy several curls in different parts of the head and see the degree of curling. If the curl is not formed, then the strand is again wound on curlers. The next curl control is carried out after five minutes. This is done until the curl acquires the desired shape. The maximum exposure time of "Curl" on the hair is 45 minutes.
• After the formation of curls, the curling agent is washed off without removing the curlers or bobbins, trying not to mix the strands with each other. A towel is applied to the hair to collect the remaining moisture.

After curling, the strands proceed to the stage of neutralization of the chemical.

Carrying out neutralization

To carry out neutralization you need:

• Dissolve a third of a teaspoon of lemon in a fourth of a glass of water. Grind 4 tablets of hydroperite to a powdery state and add them to the solution from citric acid. Add another quarter cup of water and half a teaspoon of shampoo here. That's all - the composition for neutralization is ready.
• The neutralizer is abundantly moistened with each strand. The procedure is carried out twice, spending exactly half of the prepared solution on the hair. After processing, the hair is left for ten minutes.
• After the specified time, the curls are freed from the curlers and moistened with the rest of the solution. Withstand the neutralizer for another five minutes.

To fix curls, you can replace hydroperite with perhydrol. Here, half a teaspoon of lemon is diluted in a quarter cup of water and 1.5 teaspoons of perhydrol are added there. Add another ½ cup of water to the resulting composition. The consumption of the neutralizing agent is affected by the length and density of the scalp. The prepared composition should be used immediately and is not subject to storage.

Fixation procedure

In order to consolidate the result, a third of a teaspoon of lemon is dissolved in a liter boiled water and thoroughly rinse your hair with this solution. This operation is repeated 3-4 times. Hair after such treatment is soft and pliable, it remains only to comb and style it.

If the curls are very discolored, then the volume of water in the solution should be increased to two liters, while the proportion of citric acid does not change.

At home, it is not difficult to make a perm with Curl, you just need to follow the instructions above. All steps of the procedure must be performed sequentially.

Some ladies are interested in how to do a perm at home for long hair with "Curl". The procedure in this case is performed in exactly the same way as on the strands of the middle and short length. The only thing is that curling options can be different. Here you can wind the curlers not along the entire length of the hair, but from the middle, or curl the hair only on their lower part.

How to make a perm at home without "Curl"?

At home, you can make a perm without "Curl" by buying in a store professional cosmetics ready-made kits for this event. The procedure includes the following steps:

• Before curling, you should wash your curls without conditioner and conditioner.
• Lightly dry the strands with a towel.
• Wind the hair on curlers, starting from the back of the head.
• Lubricate the skin around the head with petroleum jelly along the hairline.
• Apply curling agent. If soft curls are needed, stand for 10 minutes, for a strong curl it takes half an hour.
• Put on a hat and wrap your hair in a towel.
• Carry out a curl control by unwinding several curls: if the result is satisfactory, then the product is washed off, and if the strand is not twisted enough, wait another 5-10 minutes.
• Next, the hair is treated with a fixative. Withstand 10 minutes, remove the curlers and apply the rest of the fixative to the curls again. After 5 minutes, the hair is washed with water.
• Curls are rinsed with water and vinegar.
• Apply a repair agent.

Before you do a perm at home to yourself, you should carefully study the instructions for the finished kit. The curling agent is held on average for 25 minutes on hard-type strands, 20 minutes on medium and 15 minutes on thin ones.

Contraindications

Before you do a perm at home on your own, you need to take into account the tendency of the skin to allergies. In addition, the procedure is not performed on weakened and damaged strands, with alopecia. It is forbidden to do "chemistry" to women with bleached hair, as well as to blondes.

Perm is not carried out during the menstrual cycle and a few days after its completion. You can not do it to pregnant and lactating ladies, as well as if a person takes strong hormonal drugs. Do not resort to the procedure for colds and infectious diseases.

Basic Rules

Perming strands, carried out at home, requires special attention. When conducting it, you must adhere to the following rules:

• If the curls were treated with a reducer, then the perm is done when they are completely cut off.
• "Chemistry" is done only when the previous perm disappears completely from the hair.
• During the procedure, you can not use metal products.
• In order not to damage the skin of the hands and the nail platinum, the procedure is carried out with rubber gloves.
• If the drug gets into the eyes, they should be rinsed immediately with water.
• To accelerate the formation of a curl, you can not use a hair dryer, as this will increase the degree of injury to the hair.
• In the presence of damage to the skin of the head (abrasions, wounds), the procedure is not carried out.

Compliance with the above rules will help to avoid undesirable consequences and achieve the desired result.

About care procedures

Even a properly performed procedure using the most gentle preparations can harm the hair. Therefore, the hair after the "chemistry" should be given special attention:

• actively use special restorative agents;
• a few days after curling, do not use a hair dryer and comb curls as little as possible;
• make nourishing masks at least once a week and at least 10 sessions;
• strands should be protected from exposure to ultraviolet rays;
• you can paint the scalp only a couple of weeks after the "chemistry";
• an aggressive method of gaining curls should be preferred to a more gentle one, for example, a biowave.

A perm done at home looks no worse than a salon one. The main thing is not to rush and follow the sequence of all actions.

Curling without curling iron and curlers

Next, we will talk about how to do a perm at home without curlers and curling irons. These devices can successfully replace cotton rags. To do this, an unnecessary thing is cut into strips, the width of which for large curls is about 8 cm, for small ones - 3 cm.

Help save the situation and paper-papilotki. To do this, narrow strips are cut out of glossy paper, twisted in the form of tubes, the end is fixed with tape. The strands on them are arranged in a spiral from top to bottom. The tube is twisted into a ring and secured with an invisible or hairpin. This type of curl helps to get large and tight curls.

Pigtails will help replace curlers and curling irons. With their help, you can give your hair the desired volume and waviness. Pigtails are braided on wet, clean strands. The more braids, the curls will be smaller. Such manipulations are done at night, and the hair should be dried a little with a hairdryer before going to bed.

There are many more ways to curl without curling irons and curlers. They cause less damage to the hair, and the result is quite worthy.

How to do a perm at home on short hair, medium and long, was written above. From this it should be concluded that the procedure does not cause any particular difficulties for women, and the effect does not differ from the salon.

To carry out a perm, you must have the following tools, materials and fixtures:

• plastic comb-tail;
• warming cap;
• plastic bowl;
• applicator (bottle with a "spout") for applying the solution;
• sponge or another applicator for applying fixer;

• rubber gloves;
• plastic bobbins of various diameters;
• hair balm;
• two towels;
• oily cream;
• measuring cup;
• plastic clips.

Tools must not have metal parts.

There are two common ways to perform a perm:

• direct way; the composition is applied to clean, dry hair and only after that they are wound on bobbins. It is used, as a rule, only on long hair;
• indirect way: clean, damp hair is first twisted, and then a solution is applied to them. The most common in recent times, as modern drugs are well absorbed by the hair. Convenient in that the time of exposure to all hair is the same.

Sometimes, with sufficiently long hair, you can use a combined method: a strand is saturated with the composition for 1/2 or 2/3 of the length, after wrapping the drug is applied to the bobbin.

When winding strands in zones, it must be remembered that the surface of the scalp has a different temperature. For example, the temperature of the occipital zones is lower than the temperature of the skin in the parietal zone.

When applying the first method, the hair of the occipital zones is first twisted, then the temporal and lateral, and only after that the parietal zone. When wrapping in the second way, the sequence of strands does not matter.

A hairdresser performing a cold perm must observe the following precautionary rules:

• before the procedure, a bioassay should be performed, for which the drug is applied with a cotton swab to the skin behind the ear or on the bend of the elbow. If after 15 - 20 minutes the skin does not turn red, then the perm can be performed;
• protect the scalp, leaving a natural protective layer or creating (after washing) an artificial one, for example, by impregnation with fat;
• preparations should remain on the hair as much as possible a short time, and after a quick rinse, the hair must be immediately soaked with a fixative, trying to prevent the liquid from running down the neck or face;
• you can use protective dressings, which must be removed immediately after impregnation of the hair.

It is very dangerous for the liquid to get into the eyes, which in this case must be rinsed with plain warm water; if the eye turns red, the help of an ophthalmologist is needed.

The hairdresser needs to carefully protect the skin of the hands from the effects of chemicals with protective gloves sprinkled with talc on the inside to make them easier to put on and take off. If you work without gloves, the epidermis may die off on the fingertips, which become constantly wet and very sensitive.

Before performing a perm, it is necessary to examine the scalp. In case of damage to the integrity of the skin, wounds, etc., the client must be warned about this. Perhaps, further work should be abandoned for a while. Diagnose the hair and, depending on this, choose the winding method and the diameter of the bobbins, having previously discussed the shape and elasticity of the curl with the client. When perming previously dyed or bleached hair, you can test the strength of the hair. To do this, the drug is applied to a thin strand and after 10-15 minutes they try the hair to break. If the hair "spreads" or breaks easily, then the concentration of the composition is too high. In this case, you need to either abandon the perm altogether, or dilute the drug with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and repeat the test. You should also tactfully explain to the client in which case her state of health will be adversely affected by curling. It:

• headache;
• high or low blood pressure;
• critical days, pregnancy or lactation;
• hunger;
• taking any medications;
• stress.

Wash your hair with a mild neutral shampoo without rubbing it into the scalp. If there are a lot of styling products on the hair, then you can use shampoo for deep cleaning. Balm should not be applied, as it will close the scales and hinder the chemical process.

If the length of the hair is too long for the subsequent hairstyle, then a preliminary haircut can be performed. It must be remembered that after curling the length of the strand can be reduced by 1.5 - 2 cm.

Wind the hair onto bobbins using the first or second perm method.

Rules for winding hair on bobbins:

• the width of the strand is equal to the width of the working surface of the bobbin;
• the thickness of the strand, as a rule, is equal to the diameter of the bobbin;
• the strand is pulled “away from itself”, while ensuring the maximum rise of the root. Sometimes the volume is not needed, for example when broad face. Then the strand brace can be performed differently on the parietal and lateral zones;
• the strand is wound onto the bobbin evenly, with good tension. The hair should be on the bobbin, like thread on a spool. You should not, however, pull the strand, as this may cause a headache in the client;
• wrapping is performed on the hair moistened with the preparation or water, which allows you to qualitatively perform the tension of the strand. The quality of the curl depends on this in the future;
• the elastic should not pull the root of the strand. This can lead to hair breakage. To fix the bobbin, it is advisable to use plastic skewers;
• when winding previously dyed, porous or damaged hair, it is recommended to moisten them with a protective spray;
• it should be remembered that the marginal hairline on the neck is the coldest zone. Therefore, it is possible to use smaller diameter bobbins;
• for better scrolling of the ends of the strand, you can use special paper.

It should be noted that the choice of the diameter of the bobbins is influenced by the future laying. If the client prefers to use a hair dryer for this, then the perm should not be steep and small - such hair is difficult to straighten and pull out with a hair dryer. If the client prefers curlers, then the curl can be quite elastic. If the perm is done as an independent styling (for example, for long hair), then the curl should be elastic and correct. Explain to a client with long hair that the curl is pulled back under its own weight, so you should not blow-dry your hair or use a diffuser nozzle to form curls. While drying your hair naturally, you can lift and squeeze it slightly from time to time, forming a curl with your hands. So that the hair does not fluff, but lies beautiful curls, you need to apply mousse or gel on wet strands, comb with a comb with large teeth. Do not use a comb with fine teeth - the hair will fluff up again.

Applying a chemical. Lubricate the skin at the marginal hairline with a greasy cream. This will protect it from irritation in contact with the chemical composition. Tie a tourniquet from a napkin or towel around the head so that the composition does not get on the skin of the face.

Apply chemical composition. The composition is applied from the applicator quickly and evenly. Movement of the applicator from right to left and back. Cannot be applied a large number of the drug immediately, since the hair will not have time to swell and the composition will simply flow. In this case, the lower layers will remain unimpregnated. Thus, the solution is applied alternately to each bobbin over the entire surface of the head. Repeat several times depending on the length and thickness of the hair. Put on an insulating cap or plastic scarf. Do not apply additional heat. You can use climazon. At the same time, the exposure time is reduced by almost half.

The approximate amount of the preparation for a perm, depending on the length of the hair, is given below.

Modern preparations do not need to check the curl. They work reliably and quickly. But to reassure the client, you can check the curl. To do this, unwind one bobbin in different zones and, holding the curl on the bobbin thumbs, slightly spring the strand. If the strand forms a wave, then the curl is ready. It is impossible to unwind the strand to the end, because the newly twisted curl may not coincide with the already formed one. It should be noted that when fixing the curl will become more elastic.

In order for the curl to be large, you cannot shorten the exposure time, you need to wind it on bobbins of a larger diameter. Accordingly, in order for the curl to be small, you should wind your hair into small bobbins, and not increase the exposure time.

Remember that when working with modern preparations, it is impossible to increase the exposure time beyond what is required according to the instructions. This will only lead to the disintegration of the curl and loosening of the hair. If the curl did not work out and the client is not satisfied with a weak and sluggish curl, it is better to redo the chemistry immediately or after 1-2 weeks, using a soft composition and possibly a smaller diameter of the bobbins.

The time of exposure of the drug to the hair is given in table. 7.1.

Table 7.1

At the end of the exposure time, the chemical composition is washed off with warm running water, without spinning the bobbins. If the perm was performed using climazone, then you need to let the hair cool down. Rinsing time depends on the length of the hair. The thicker the strand on the bobbin, the longer it takes to wash off the drug. This is very important, in the future the fixation process depends on how well the hair is washed. Recommended rinsing times are listed below.

Then dry your hair well with a towel and apply a fixer. Modern manufacturing companies produce a ready-made concentrated fixer, which must be diluted 1: 1 with water. The solution can be foamed and applied to each bobbin with a sponge or applicator. The fixer should be enough, otherwise not all broken sulfur bonds will be restored, and the hair, having lost elasticity, will become!' inelastic and sluggish. The fixing preparation is left for a while, then the bobbins are untwisted, starting from the lower occipital zone. Further, if the hair is longer than 10 cm, the fixer can be applied a second time. Rinse abundantly with warm running water. The exposure time of the fixer is given in table. 7.2.

Table 7.2

And finally, you can proceed to the final curling operation - neutralization. A special preparation is applied to towel-dried hair, which finally removes the residual amount of hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid from the depths of the hair. In this case, a fairly rapid hardening of keratin occurs, which makes the hair elastic and shiny. The drug is kept on the hair for 3-5 minutes. All this time, it is advisable to rub it into the hair with gentle movements, then rinse with water. Some modern firms use a stabilizing mousse. It is applied to the hair after rinsing and is not washed off.

It is advisable to cut the ends of the hair after curling.

Mistakes when performing a perm.

Strands of hair have weak curls:

• an expired chemical composition was used;
• the hair was divided into large strands and wound too tightly on the bobbins, so the composition did not soak the ends of the hair well;
• insufficient amount of composition;
• poor tension of the strands when winding;
• insufficient concentration of the drug;
• too large diameter bobbins for this type of hair.

Irritation on the scalp:

• used too much composition and unabsorbed composition stack on the scalp.

Hair breakage:

• the exposure time of the composition has been exceeded;
• rules for applying fixer are violated;
• the hair was strongly stretched when winding and tight elastic bands pulled the roots.

Hair color change:

• a fixer was used with a concentration of more than 3% and a holding time of more than 8 minutes;
• insufficiently washed hair before the neutralization operation;
• used metal utensils, tools that reacted with the composition.

Hair care after perm. Any type of perm will inevitably weaken the hair and predispose it to damage. Therefore, curled hair should be handled very carefully, especially in the first weeks after curling.

When the bobbins are removed, it is very important not to start combing the hair right away, as the curls will finally seize only when the hair is completely dry. You should not worry if the curls turned out to be tighter than we would like. The curl will loosen a little in the first week.

After washing your hair, you should use either therapeutic balms with keratin, protein or rinses. It is also advisable to use shampoo for dry and brittle hair or for chemically permed hair. Hair masks should be done after every third or fourth shampooing.

The new perm products contain lightweight nutrients such as moisturizing panthenol and growth-enhancing keratin, collagens and silk proteins. They also give the curls elasticity. An effective firming agent is hot oil. This new generation product strengthens hair without leaving any traces of oil on it. Its secret lies in a new combination of ingredients from keratins and protein hydrolysers plus thermal action. Closed bottles of oily liquid should be heated for 2 minutes in hot water, then opened and applied to wet hair. Thanks to the heat, the ingredients are evenly distributed on the surface of the head and have a better effect on the hair. Let the oil soak in a little and then wash off with shampoo. Hair then becomes healthier and more elastic.

How to give hair volume? What can be done to keep it for a long time and not waste precious time in the morning on warming up the tongs and tedious styling? There is only one answer to these questions - perm.

What is permed hair?

Chemistry is the artificial transformation of straight and smooth hair into curly. The effect lasts from several weeks to several months, depending on the technique used.

Reference! The very first perm was carried out by the inventor Karl Nessler back in 1906, and his wife acted as a test subject. .

Over the years of its existence, perm has undergone many changes and upgrades. This is not at all what our grandmothers did, and even more so not what Karl Nessler did with his wife's hair.

The procedure has become more gentle for the hair, and some types of long-term perm even have a therapeutic effect, filling the curls with moisture and nutrients.

The curling technique remained unchanged, which is based on the use of a special chemical composition by the master - a fixative. They process strands wound on special curlers so that they repeat their shape and become spiral.

Indications and contraindications

Let's look at who perm is suitable for, and to whom it is extremely contraindicated:

Indications

• Thin hair– thin and straight hair looks lifeless due to the lack of volume.
• Too coarse facial features- soft curls can smooth out the image, making it more romantic and feminine.
• Constant employment and lack of time for styling- with a curl, you can simply comb your hair with a fine-toothed comb or give it texture with a styling product without wasting time on a curling iron.

Contraindications

• Coloring done less than two weeks before the procedure will give a strong load on the follicle and hair shaft, due to which the structure can irreparably deteriorate.
• Pregnancy and lactation- despite the fact that there have been no medical studies proving the negative impact of hair chemistry on the health of the expectant mother and child, doctors recommend refraining from the procedure for this period. Pungent and pungent odors can provoke an attack of toxicosis.
• Taking antibiotics or other "heavy" medications. During this period, the hair may not receive nutrients, it's not worth loading them even harder.
• Fever and increased intracranial pressure- additional heating of the head can seriously worsen your well-being.
• Staining with henna or basma- vegetable dye strongly clogs the hair cuticle, which makes it less susceptible to any effect.
• Weak and thinning hair- this is a completely different case than just thin hair rods from nature. Hair exhausted by frequent dyeing, lightening and improper care may not withstand perms.

Important! If your hair needs restoration, give preference to biowave.

Pros and cons

The benefits of perm include:

• Resistant to adverse weather conditions- whether it's moisture, snow or wind, the styling will not lose its shape, moreover, in wet conditions, the curls become even more noticeable.
• Volume- the hairstyle becomes lush and springy.
• Reduces oiliness at the roots due to the drying effect of the components.
• Durability- you can forget about daily styling for a period of several weeks to several months.

The disadvantages of the procedure are as follows:

• Some compounds can severely damage the hair structure.
• After a perm, curls need intensive nutrition and restoration.
• Strongly withering hair to cut off.
• For some time, you need to abandon staining.
• May not take thick and hard curls.
• Large list of contraindications.

Types by chemical composition and execution technology

There are several types of perm:

• Acid- so called due to the fixative based on thioglycolic acid, which is quite gentle on the hair, but at the same time fixes the curls well. The styling result lasts about a month. The method is not suitable for curling thin hair, and owners sensitive skin heads.
  
• Amino acid- one of the varieties of therapeutic hair styling, which includes nutritious amino acids and proteins. After the procedure, the curls look as if the curly structure is their natural state. Alas, this result lasts only 2-6 weeks, and then the hair straightens. It will be useless for coarse and dry hair.
  
• alkaline- has an intense alkali-based fixative that penetrates deep into the hair structure, opening its scales. Of the advantages, one can single out the fact that the result of such a perm lasts around 3 months and is very democratic price. Of the minuses - a weak result on coarse hair and a withering effect on soft ones.
  
• Neutral- works equally well on both soft and hard hair. The result of a perm lasts from 3 to 6 months.
  
• With thioglycolic acid– also known as “safe”. This is due to the effect of thioglycolic acid on the hair - the rods swell gradually, due to which their degree of damage is minimal.
  
• - the softest and rather expensive procedure for long-term waving. The curling composition does not contain ammonia, hydrogen peroxide or aggressive acids. It is carried out due to components of plant origin. Hair is not only twisted, but also restored.
  
• silk- silk proteins, which are part of the fixative, gently envelop each hair shaft, making them not only spiral, but also amazingly soft and moisturized. This method is one of the most expensive.
  
• - carving is something between a biowave and a classic perm. It has a softer, but still chemical composition. Carving gives the effect of soft curls, so if you expect to get elastic curls, choose something else.
  
• Japanese- This is not a separate variety, but rather a class of safe perms. It includes silk, matrix and neutral.
  
• American- gives large and pronounced spiral curls. Looks good on hair middle length and more.
  

Reference! For the American curl, special curlers "Olivia Garden" are used.

The safest perm is considered to be biowave and all Japanese techniques. The more natural and gentle the composition, the better it is for the hair. If you doubt the choice - be sure to consult with a specialist. He will tell you the best option based on the length, density and condition of your curls.

Types according to the method of winding the strands

Consider the procedure depending on the winding method:

• Horizontal- curlers with the principle of horizontal winding are used, while their appearance and material may vary. This method is considered classic.
  
• vertical- curlers for this type of winding look like an elongated base with spirals cut out along the contour. A strand is embedded in these spirals. Both thin and thick curlers or a combination of both can be used in order to achieve the most natural effect.
  
• Spiral- this way you can get small curls and amazing volume. It involves twisting the hair into a tourniquet, and then winding the tourniquet onto a special thin bobbin.
  
• Radical- used to correct overgrown curls and to give basal volume to thin hair without winding the length. They do this by winding the strand with a “half-eight” on curlers, and fix the remaining length with an elastic band.
• double winding- This method is used on long hair, in order to get a more intense curl. At the same time, the root strand is wound onto thin bobbins, and the length onto curlers of the desired diameter.
• Curling the ends of the hair- also known as "local". For its implementation, curlers of different diameters and sizes can be used and various ways cheats.
  
• On papillottes- These are long, soft and elastic curlers. Curling with papillots is considered the softest and most gentle, and due to its shape, they give the most natural result.
  
• Large curls- curlers are used to create large curls big size. In this case, the specialist must control the exposure time of the composition on the hair. The larger it is, the tougher and more expressive the curl.
  

Note! Large curls stay on the hair for less time, as they quickly sag and straighten under their own weight.

• Small curls or afro- this method is most often used by girls with thin and sparse hair of medium length. For curling, small papillots or spiral curlers are used. Be patient - this styling will take from 3 to 5 hours. The volume is incredible and what longer hair, the more “spherical” shape the hair will take.
• Waves- carried out using large or special ribbon-like curlers, through which a strand is pulled, and then wetted with a fixative.

Hairstyles with perm

For short hair

1. Apply a small amount of styling gel or wax to your hands and remember the strands in your hands, giving them a little more volume and texture.
2. If you have a bang, separate it from the total mass of hair and lay it on your forehead. Put on a headband or bandage that will focus on short mischievous curls.
3. Give curls an effect wet hair by applying a styling gel with the appropriate function.

For medium and long hair

The longer the hair, the more variations of hairstyles. You can adapt any usual hairstyle for curls, and it will look spectacular.

1. Lay your hair on one side, fixing it on the free temple of the invisible. If you wish, you can decorate your hair with a flower.
2. Gather your hair into a high ponytail at the crown, distributing the curls so that half falls on your face and the other part on your back.
3. Still relevant styling with the effect of wet hair, which can be done with the appropriate styling products.
4. Add more volume and volume to your hair by blow-drying it with a diffuser attachment.

Perm with bangs

AT classic version curls bangs remain straight. If the bangs are cut evenly, very short or pronouncedly asymmetrical, then the curls will look strange and bristle in all directions. If the bangs have already grown or are cut in a torn way, curl them along with the rest of the mass of hair.

How is permed hair done?

Composition for perm

When choosing a curling agent, it is very important to pay attention to its chemical composition. It must match the following parameters:

• Do not change the natural color of the hair.
• Easy to rinse off.
• Have a slight smell of a perfume composition.

First of all, pay attention to the Ph level - the higher it is, the more destructive it is for the natural keratin layer of the hair.

Depending on the type of perm, one of the following permanents is used:

• alkaline;
• acid-balanced;
• soft;
• gelatinous;
• foamy.

Tools and compositions for perm

• Curlers and bobbins- come from different materials(wood, plastic, fabric, foam rubber) and sizes. Designed for winding and fixing curls in the required position.
• Paper- used during curling to prevent split ends. Also, the curls are covered with paper during root curling.
• Retainer- the liquid used at the last stage of the curl, to fix the result achieved.

How long does a perm take?

Session length varies. from 1.5 to 5 hours, depending on the technique used, the length and thickness of the hair.

How often can you get your hair permed?

Most often, the styling is updated as the root zone grows, that is once every 3-5 months. More often than not, you should not do a perm. In addition, there should be an intensive recovery phase between sessions.

How long does it keep?

The stability of the curl depends on the chemical composition and natural structure of the curls. On coarse hair, the curl lasts much less than on soft hair. The average is 3 months.

Perm hair at home

if you prepare the composition and the necessary tools in advance. But you should not do this if you do not have a similar experience - there is a high risk that you will not get a uniform result. If you are confident in your abilities and are determined to make a perm with your own hands, follow the following instructions.

1. Make a mirror corridor putting one mirror in front of you, the other behind your back, in order to better control your actions.
2. Comb your hair thoroughly and divide it into sectors. for ease of curling and processing. Remember that the curls must be clean, without traces of care and styling products.
3. Roll curlers or bobbins, following a pre-selected curling pattern.
4. Treat your hair with chemicals- here be very careful. Each curl should be evenly saturated. Don't skimp, but don't overdo it either. Be sure to wear protective gloves first.
5. Keep the remedy for the required time- Do not deviate from the manufacturer's instructions. 10 minutes before the expected completion, unwind one curler at the back of the head - if the curl is sufficiently curled - proceed to the next step. If not, wait as long as indicated in the manual. The maximum allowable exposure time is 45 minutes.
6. Rinse the product out of your hair without removing the curlers. Then rinse your head large quantity running water. At the end, blot your hair with a towel and let your hair dry to a slightly damp state.
7. Apply fixative- all the same, without removing the curlers, distribute the fixative through the hair and let it soak. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. After the required time has passed, wash your hair and unwind the curlers. Let the hair dry naturally or use a hair dryer on a cool setting.

Important! Work with the chemical composition only with gloves!

Modern preparations and products for perm hair

Ollin

The manufacturer has three products designed for perming hair:

• Gel "Curl Hair Perm Gel" - is able to turn straight strands into elastic curls, while creating a protective keratin film on them.
• Mix-fluid "Fluid mix Ollin curl hair"- softens the effect of the chemical composition, preventing drying of the hair and split ends.
• Retainer- is the final means to consolidate the result.

At proper care The effect of curling lasts up to three months.

Wella

The Wave it perm kit consists of 3 products:

• care;
• curling lotion;
• retainer.

In addition, you can choose a set depending on the type of hair - for normal, difficult to style and for colored curls.

A distinctive feature of the sets from Wella is the Flexi-Protect technology with a keratin complex for intensive nutrition and restoration of the hair shaft during styling. The manufacturer promises a lasting result up to 12 weeks.

Schwarzkopf professional

The Natural Styling series of permanent waving products has several branches, making it easy to choose a product for your hair type, whether it is weak, unruly or thin.

Thanks to a well-chosen composition, the curls do not lose their moisture and are saturated with the missing trace elements. The result lasts up to six months. The line includes the following tools:

1. Gel- used for partial or basal perms.
2. Lotion- used for classic curling, there are several types. For normal, colored, porous and coarse hair.
3. - used to create a short-term effect of curls.
4. Converter- used as the final step for each type of curl.
5. Revitalizing Spray- used as post-perm care. Makes strands softer and more manageable.

Kapous

The innovative composition intensively curls the curls, while not disturbing the hair structure. The manufacturer made sure that it was easy even for a beginner to choose the right composition, and therefore divided the lotions according to the markings, where:

• 0 - for hard unpainted.
• 1 – for normal unpainted.
• 2 – for dyed and damaged or for re-perm.

The products contain fruit acids, keratin polymers, elastins and silicones, which contribute to the maintenance of a healthy hair condition.

The fixator contains ammonium thioglycolate instead of ammonia, which makes the process more gentle.

Paul Mitchell

It is distinguished by a gentle and soft composition, due to which, even after repeated perm, the hair is quickly restored and returns to normal. There are three types of products available from the manufacturer:

• Alkaline- for gray and dense hair.
• Exothermic– for normal, dry and colored.
• Acid- for thin and clarified.

The set includes a deep cleansing shampoo, curling compound, conditioner and neutralizer.

Results - BEFORE and AFTER photos

Here are some before and after photos of the procedure:

How to take care of permed hair?

No matter how gentle the composition is, the hair structure still suffers. It is possible to minimize the negative consequences if you follow the recommendations for care.

When can I wash my hair after a perm?

The chemical composition is fixed on the hair for a few more days, from the moment of the procedure, so experts recommend washing your hair no earlier than 3-5 days before.

How to style hair after a perm?

For the first 3 days after curling, refrain from styling products - they, like washing, can negatively affect the structure of the rod. If possible, refuse a hair dryer and do not drag your hair with an elastic band.

Industrial products after perm - shampoo, balm, mask

Most hair restoration products contain keratin, protein, panthenol and extracts of treated plants, which is very suitable for hair after a perm. If you are looking for products in the mass market, then choose products marked “for dry and brittle”, “for dyed”, “for severely damaged hair”. If you have a professional cosmetics store in your city, then pay attention to the following products.

Shampoos: The main rule when choosing a shampoo after a perm is that it should not contain sulfates. The softer and more natural composition- all the better.

Balms:"intensive moisturizing" by Schwarzkopf, Hydra Mist for dry and frizzy by T-LAB Professional, "Smoothing" by Paul Mitchell, etc.

Masks: Nutri Argan nourishing from NHP, moisturizing with SPF filter "Inebrya Ice Cream Dry-T", strengthening Green Light Day By Dau.

Oils: ampoule oils for recovery Kleral System Silk Senjal, restoring natural oils from "Secrets of Grandma Agafya", sea buckthorn oil for curly hair from Organic Shop.From natural oils you can use grape seed oil, sea buckthorn, burdock, coconut and cocoa butter.

Masks after perm at home

After chemical exposure, you want to give your hair more natural, and then folk recipes come to the rescue.

black bread mask

Ingredients:

• Black bread - 200 grams;
• Kefir - 200 ml;
• Chicken yolk - 2 pcs;
• Honey - 1 tsp

Preparation and application:

Fill the bread with kefir and leave to soak overnight. In the morning, add the rest of the ingredients and mix thoroughly. Moisten the hair roots with water and spread the mask over the scalp with soft, massaging movements. Leave on for 20 minutes, then rinse off.

Mask with garlic and onions

This mask is very effective, but has a rather pungent smell, so only use it when you have enough time to air out.

Ingredients:

• Onion - 1 medium-sized head;
• Garlic - 2-3 cloves;
• Honey - 1 tbsp. l;
• Shampoo - half a glass.

Preparation and application:

Squeeze the juice from the garlic and onion into a bowl, add the shampoo and then a spoonful of honey. Carefully distribute the resulting substance over the strands and leave for 15 minutes. After the time has passed, lather well and rinse several times. If you need to remove the smell faster - make a soda solution (half a teaspoon of soda per liter of water).

Mask with yolk and glycerin

Ingredients:

• Yolk - 2 pcs;
• Glycerin - 10 drops;
• Water - 3 tbsp. l;

Preparation and application:

Mix all the ingredients together until you get a homogeneous mass. Distribute the substance first at the roots, and then along the entire length of the hair. Put a shower cap on top and wrap your head in a towel. Leave on for an hour, then rinse off.

Note! If you wish, you can enhance the effect of the mask if you rinse your head not with water, but with a solution of nettle or chamomile.

Where to get a good perm, how to choose the right salon?

Of course, doing a perm is better in the salon than at home. But at the same time, be sure to pay attention to the reputation of the beauty salon, the experience of the master and the means he uses.

Check out the reviews on the Internet, look at the gallery of works, ask your friends - and if everything suits you, feel free to sign up for a session!

Prices

Perm prices in Moscow beauty salons, information taken from zoon.ru:

Alternative Methods

Perhaps the best alternative to a perm is this. It does not harm the hair, looks more natural and is not so noticeable on regrown roots, since the transition from straight to wavy hair is very smooth.

In the skillful hands of the master, biowave will not only add volume to the hair, but also heal it.