Where does ... designing begin.

Or how to build a dress for yourself for the first time.

In the previous article, from the series “Where Design Begins”, we examined the construction of a basic grid of a drawing for a dress with a semi-adjacent silhouette.

In this article, we continue to build the dress, and the next stage is:

STAGE 3: BUILDINGBACK MIDLINE.

Let's first look at the definition of what is middle line of the back.

As you know, the back of a human figure has curves according to the anatomical features of the spine, middle line of the back in clothes- this is a vertical structural element located in the middle of the back along the spine, which is involved in the shaping of the silhouette of the product, providing either a fit or a sheer shape of the product along the back. See the figure below, here is an example of the extent to which the middle line of the back is adjacent to the figure, in a product of a semi-adjacent silhouette.

The following figure shows a view of the middle seam of the back of a semi-adjacent silhouette, on basic grid drawing.

Depending on the silhouette and form of clothing, the middle back seam also has different types and different ways construction, more about this, read the article "Types of the middle seam of the back, and methods of construction."

And we continue, and now we will take a closer look at where to start and how to finish the middle back seam for our dress.

Conventionally, this process can be divided into several steps:

1 Determining the position of the blade line

2 Building a line of fit to the upper back

3 Construction of an auxiliary midline

4 Construction of the middle seam, construction of the line of the bottom of the back.

1) Determine the position of the line of the shoulder blades, point At on the grid of the drawing, according to the formula 0.4 * DTS. The resulting value is laid down vertically from the point BUT. From the received point At draw an auxiliary horizontal line of arbitrary length.

2) From point A horizontally to the right, set aside a distance of 0.5 to 1 cm, point A2. connect the dot A2 and point At. Line A2U- ensures the fit of the product in the area of ​​​​the neck of the back.

3) From a point T to the right horizontally set aside a distance of 1.5 to 2 cm, point T2. connect the dots At and T2 and extend the resulting line down until it intersects with the bottom line.

4) from point T2 to the right horizontally set aside the distance from 0 to 1.5 cm, point T22. Line segment T2-T22 ensures that the middle seam of the back rests against the waist. Next connect the dot At with a dot T22 and from the point T22 down lower the vertical, or connect T22 with a dot B2.

The options depend on the shape of the buttocks, if we lower the flat ones from T22 vertical down. If the expressed form is the second option.

And finally, we restore the perpendicular, at the point of intersection of the middle line of the back with the line HH1.

Estimation

Schizd. = Cr3 + Pg = 44.0 + 3.5 = 47.5

Shsp \u003d Shs + Pshs \u003d 17.3 + 0.7 \u003d 18.0

Shper \u003d Shg2 + Pshg \u003d 19.1

Shpr \u003d Shizd - (Shsp + Shper) \u003d 47.5 - (18.0 + 19.1) \u003d 10.4

Shruk === 16.0

The width of the sleeve at the bottom is selected according to the model. The typical solution suggests the difference between Shruk. and Shruk.vn, equal to 5.0¸5.5 cm. In this design, Shruk.in = 11.0.

Building a drawing grid

The level of the chest line: AG = Vpr s + Psp = 17.5 + 2.0 = 19.5 (Fig. 4).

Waist line level: AT = Dts + Pdts = 40.1 + 1.0 = 41.1.

Blade line level: AU = 0.4Dts = 0.4∙40.1 ≈ 16.0.

GG1 = Shsp = 18.0 is successively deposited along the chest line; G1G2 \u003d Spr \u003d 10.4; G2G4 = Shper = 19.1.

The lower part of the armhole is built using the serif method: Г1П3 = 0.6Spr = 0.6∙10.4 = 6.2; G2P6 \u003d 0.4 Shpr \u003d 4.2.

Back construction

The back is built with a middle seam for a better fit. Abduction of the midline of the back along the waist line ТТ1 = 1.0. Connect the obtained point T1 with point Y. It is possible to design the lead in the region of the top of the middle AAʹ to the right 0.5 cm.

Sprout width AA1 = ⅓Ssh + Psh.gor = ⅓∙17.5 + 0.5 = 6.3. To determine the position of the top of the sprout or balance point A2 on the back, find the difference between the measurements of Dts1 and Dts: put A1A2 = Dts1 - Dts = 42.9 - 40.1 = 2.8 up.

Fig. 4 Construction of the bodice of a dress of an adjacent silhouette

The height of the sprout A2A21 ≈ 2.2 ÷ 2.3 - for a light assortment (dress, blouse). Point A21 is projected onto the line of the middle cut (point A0), then the line of the sprout is molded.

In the design under consideration, a shoulder tuck is designed on the back, i.e. the shoulder section is built while maintaining the natural slope of the shoulder line. First, the level of the shoulder point at the intersection of two arcs is determined: from the point T - the arc R = Vpk + Pdts = 42.8 + 1.0 = 43.8 and from the point A2 - the arc R = Shp = 13.1. From the obtained point P, draw a small horizontal line to the vertical from G1 - point P2. On the A2P line, the position of the shoulder tuck is marked: A2A22 = ⅓÷¼ Shp ≈ 3.5. The left side of the tuck is raised by 0.5 ÷ 0,7 (A22A22ʹ) to ensure the pairing of the shoulder cut with a closed tuck.

The solution of the shoulder tuck depends on the posture of the figure. For a typical figure with normal posture, it is recommended to take 2,0 ÷2.5cm. For a stooped figure, a larger solution is required - 2.5 ÷ 3.0 cm, and for an inflexible posture - 1.5 ÷ 2.0 cm. The length of the tuck depends on the size of the solution and for suturing the end of the tuck it is equal to 3–4 of its solutions. After constructing the shoulder tuck, the shoulder cut is completed: A23P1 \u003d Shp - A2A22ʹ.

To design the line of the armhole of the back, the end of the shoulder cut P1 is connected to the point P3 in a curved way.

The top of the side cut of the bodice of the dress, point G5 in a typical solution, is in the middle of the armhole. From point G5, draw a vertical line to the waist line - point T6.

Building the front

To build the neck from the point T4, a balance measurement is postponed, i.e. T4A3 = Dtp1 + Pdtp = 43.0 + 1.0 = 44.0. The width of the neck is equal to the width of the sprout: A3A4 \u003d AA1 \u003d 6.3. Neck depth A3A5 = A3A4 + 1.0 = 7.3. The constructed line of the neckline and the sprout of the back corresponds to the line of the base of the neck of the figure. If the model requires expansion and deepening of the neck, then the necessary changes are applied on the basis of the structure built.

In products cut off along the waist line, it is recommended to design a decrease T4T5 = 0,5 ÷0.7. The site of reduction is preserved up to the vertical passing through the most protruding point of the chest. Such a decrease is necessary to maintain a straight line when connecting the bodice of the product with its lower part.

The shoulder section of the front and the chest tuck are built together. Set aside A4A8 = A2A22ʹ to the left. From A22ʹ, draw a vertical line to the waist line (point T7) and to the lowering line (point T71). On this vertical, from the top of the neckline A4 (front balance point), make a notch R = A4G7 = Bg1 + ½Pdtp = 25.2. From point G7, as from the end of the chest tuck, an arc is drawn with a radius equal to G7A8, a solution of the chest tuck is deposited along the chord A8A9 \u003d 2 (Shg2 -Shg1) + 2 \u003d 2 (19.1 - 16.5) + 2 \u003d 7.2.

To determine the position of the end of the shoulder section of point P5 upwards, set aside G2P4 = G1P2 - 1.0. From P6 - an arc with a radius of P6P4. From the auxiliary point A10 (A9A10 \u003d A4A8) on this arc, make a notch with a radius equal to Shp \u003d 13.1. Connect the resulting point P5 to A10. Mark the intersection of the shoulder cut with the left side of the chest tuck 1 , on the left side align the right, i.e. G7 2 = G7 1 . To save volume in the area mammary glands chest tuck it is recommended to shorten it by 2.0÷2.5 cm (along the bisector to maintain equality of sides).

To design the line of the armhole in front, the end of the shoulder cut P5 is connected to the point P6 in a curved way.

Calculation and construction of darts along the waistline

Depending on the silhouette, the increase in Pt is selected from the increase table and the total solution of the tucks is calculated.

ΣW \u003d Shizd - (St + Fri) - TT1 \u003d 47.5 - (33.8 + 2.7) - 1.0 \u003d 10.0. The distribution of ΣW depends on its size and the number of thalium tucks. Typical solution:

(0.4 ÷ 0.5) ΣW - side tuck (in side cuts), distribute relative to T6;

0.25ΣW - rear tuck on the back, relative to T8 (on the vertical from the middle of the back GG1);

0.25ΣW - front tuck, which is set aside relative to T71.

In the event that the value of the total opening of the tucks exceeds 11.0 cm, it is recommended to design the front side tuck with a solution equal to (0.1÷0.15)ΣW. The tuck is distributed relative to the point in the middle of the T6T7 section. Another option is possible when a second tuck is built on the back.

In the considered design of the bodice of the dress of the adjacent silhouette, the opening of the side tuck is 4.4 cm, the back tuck is 2.6 cm, the opening of the front tuck is 3.0 cm.

The ends of the tucks on the back and front are marked at a distance of 4.0 ÷ 5.0 cm.

The side cuts are extended by approximately 1.0cm, i.e. T61T61ʹ \u003d T62T62ʹ \u003d 1.0 - to ensure the pairing of the waist sections of the back and front after joining the side sections.

Calculation and construction of a sleeve narrowed down with an elbow tuck

The sleeve is built into the armhole. The length of the armhole (Dpr) is measured from the drawing of the base of the bodice of the dress. Depending on the thickness and structure of the fabric, Hpos is selected. In this design, Dpr \u003d 42.1. The size of the fit is calculated along the rim of the sleeve: Pos \u003d Npos · Dpr \u003d 0.07 42.1 ≈ 2.9. Doc \u003d Dpr + Pos \u003d 42.1 + 2.9 \u003d 45.0.

Wok \u003d ⅔Doc - Shruk \u003d ⅔ 45.0 - 16.0 \u003d 14.0. The estimated height of the eye for control is compared with the Wok graphic. Wok.gr. \u003d dvert - 2.5 \u003d 16.5 - 2.5 \u003d 14.0.

For convenience and accuracy of construction, the armhole into which the sleeve is embedded is built anew with the designation of the main points (Fig. 5).

To determine the position of the point through which the front roll line passes to the right, G2Rp = 0.4 (Shruk - Shpr) = 0.4 (16.0 - 10.4) = 2.2 is plotted. Draw a vertical line through the point Pp, along which put PpO1 = Vok = 14.0 up, and down O1M = Druk = 56.0 and O1L =½Druk - 3.0 = 31.0. Set aside RpRl \u003d Shruk \u003d 16.0 to the left.

Sleeve width along the line of the elbow LL2 \u003d Shruk - 1,0 ÷1.5 = 15.0. Connect point Pl to L2.

Rice. 5 Construction of a set-in sleeve with an elbow tuck

The construction of the head of the sleeve is performed by the serif method in the following sequence:

· from the point Rp to the right, set aside a value equal to G2Rp and relative to the new coordinate axes with a radius of 0.4Shpr = 4.2, the mirror image of the front armhole is constructed to obtain point P1;

draw a line perpendicular to RlL2 from the point G0, from the point Rlʹ to the left set aside a value equal to G1Rl (measure) and relative to the new coordinate axes with a radius for constructing the back armhole 0.6Shpr = 6.2, a construction is performed in mirror image to obtain point P2;

point O11 - the middle of OO1; point O23 - the middle of O2O3; point Oʹ - the middle of O11O23; lay down ОʹОʹʹ \u003d ½ O11O23 and draw a semicircle from the point Оʹʹ with this radius;

connect the upper part of the head of the sleeve with the lower parts of the tangents; designate the intersection points as O6 and O7.

For the final construction of the line of the front roll from the point M to the right, lay off MMʹ \u003d 1.5 and the resulting point Mʹ is connected to the point L. Thus, O6LMʹ is the line of the front roll.

The bottom line of the sleeve is built at an angle, for which an additional construction is performed: to the left МʹМʹʹ= 18.0(const) and down МʹʹМ3 = 3.0(const). Connect the point M3 with Mʹ, put aside MʹM2 = Shruk.vn on an inclined line. = 11.0. Connect point M2 to L2. Line O7L2M2 - line of ulnar roll.

The sleeve is built with an elbow tuck. The tuck solution is obtained by performing an additional construction: from point L2, draw a line perpendicular to RlʹL2 until it intersects with the vertical G0L0, the point of intersection is Lʹ. From point Lʹ draw a line perpendicular to L2M2. Set aside L2L3 = RlʹR2 and LʹL4 = LʹL3. The end of the elbow tuck point L5 should not reach the line of the elbow roll by 2.0 ÷ 2.5 cm. the elbow section of the sleeve passes through the points P2L3L4M4.

The sleeve is unfolded relative to the line of the front roll to build the front cut of the R1L1M1 sleeve, with M1 below the horizontal bottom line by ½ (1 - M0).

The sleeve is sewn into the armhole when the notches on the lines of the eyelet and the armhole are combined. Notches on the eye line are placed taking into account the fact that the main part of the landing is designed along the head of the sleeve, and the lower parts of the eyelet are sewn into the armhole with a minimum fit. The position of the notch from point O6 on the collar is projected onto the armhole - point P61, the notch from point O7 on the collar corresponds to the notch P31 on the armhole. The upper notch, when stitched in, is combined with the shoulder seam of the product.

Appearance description

Everyday women's dress of a semi-adjacent silhouette, with a sleeve of a basic cut, detachable along the waistline with a zipper fastener in the middle seam of the back.

adjoining silhouette shape the product is provided with shaping elements (tucks) on the shelf, back, front and back parts of the skirt (see Fig.), as well as the middle seam of the back. For ease of use, the dress has zipper fasteners: one long one along the middle seam of the back or two - in the middle seam of the back and in the left side seam.

Note: The dress can be made not cut along the waistline.

1. When printing a pattern in A4 format, check the " Real size" (or uncheck "Fit to page") in the print settings. Print a test page, measure the sample square - it should be 10x10 cm. After printing all the pages of the pattern, glue them in the indicated order: letters (A / B / C +) stand for a column, and the numbers (01/02/03+) stand for a row.The first (upper left) sheet of the pattern will have the number A01.

2. When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in AdobeReader (or FoxitReader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the "Poster" print mode in the "Page Size and Handling" section. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes "Cutting Marks", "Labels" and "Split Large Pages Only". If you have any questions, check out our FAQ page!

Parts specification

MAIN MATERIAL

1. Shelf - 1 piece (with a fold)
2. Back - 1 piece 9 with a fold)
3. Sleeve - 2 parts (with or without a tuck)
4. The front of the skirt - 1 piece
5. The back of the skirt - 2 parts
6. Turning the neck of the shelf - 1 piece
7. Turning the neck of the back - 2 parts

The width of the facing of the neck of the shelf and back is 4 cm.

When cutting, add seam allowances of 1 cm, along the turning line of the cut of the neck of the shelf and back - 0.7 cm, along the bottom of the sleeve - 4 cm, along the bottom line - 3 cm.

To make a dress you will need:

- about 20 cm of adhesive cushioning material (with a width of 90 cm);

- two hidden zippers (16-18 cm and 20-24 cm) or one (45-50) cm

The average consumption of the base material depends on the size of the product and the width of the material. For products of medium and big size you will need one product length (measured along the back from the seventh cervical vertebra) + sleeve length (from the shoulder point) with a material width of 140 cm.

Variants of laying out the details of the cut

Option for laying out patterns on the material in a turn

Option for laying out patterns on the material in a fold along the warp thread

Process sequence dress processing

The product processing technology (operations performed and sequence) largely depends on the properties of the selected material, its thickness and friability.

Therefore, the technological processing sequence for this product will be presented in tabular form, which will allow you to see the main differences in the processing of products from light (thin) and heavy (thick) materials.

Attention! The technological sequence is given on a cut-off dress along the waistline with two zippers

(in the middle back seam and left side seam)

In today's lesson, we will analyze the simulation latya fitted silhouette. The bodice of the dress is decorated with embossed seams, the neckline is decorated with a "boat" neckline. Sleeveless dress. Skirt sun.

For modeling, we will take patterns of small volume, pattern 125

Step 1. We make out the neck line. Move the waist darts closer to the side seams.

Step 2. We mark the location of the relief seams from the armhole and along the sides of the darts. We outline the waist line. On the back along the waistline, on the front we make a descent of approx. 1cm

Step 3. On the bodice of the back, draw a relief seam with a smooth line, cut the back along the line of the relief seam.

Step 4. On the front of the bodice, we transfer the chest tuck to the armhole, connect it to the end of the waist tuck. Cut along the relief line, then along the side of the tuck. We draw reliefs with a smooth line.

Step 5. On the cut off back panel, mark the dividing lines for breeding. Divide the tuck solution by the number of lines. We mark the desired length of the skirt. We part the details of the panel to a right angle. We do the same with the front panel.

Step 6. We get in cut:

1) back 2 children.
2) barrel back 2 children.
3) front barrel 2 children.
4) the central part of the front 1 child. with a fold
5) combined (combined neck and armhole facing) back facing 2 children.
6) combined front facing 1 child. with a fold
7) the back panel of the skirt 2 children.
8) the front panel of the skirt 1 child. with a fold

: “Where on the back will the shared thread pass, along which line, along the vertical line of the grid or along the branch line?”.
The answer was so obvious that it did not "pull" for a long article. Of course, it is the vertical lines of the grid that need to be placed in accordance with the shared direction of the threads of matter so that there are no distortions in the overall fit of the dress.
Arguments:

• And the axes of the tucks, and embossed seams in the classical case, they run parallel to the drawing grid.
• The vertical of the basis of matter allows you to beautifully wrap around the figure without distortions and creases. This is in the general case, but there are also special Dysaneir tricks that we are not talking about today.

But - "word for word" - we started talking and found out that the question was not asked from scratch and the answer is not so unambiguous. I propose to deal with an interesting design technique

What is the retraction of the midline of the back? What is it for?

When we sew clothes with a solid back, for example, a blouse, shirt or jacket, then everything is simple: the middle line is strictly vertical and coincides with the warp thread.

But jackets, jackets, coats and dresses of fitted silhouettes require a more precise fit and a beautiful fit on the back. Here the middle seam comes to the rescue, and it is by no means cut vertically. The middle seam helps to model clothes in the area of ​​the shoulder blades, waist and hips. It follows the natural curve of the spine, which is different for everyone. Often, waist darts on the back are not enough for a perfect fit, but more deflection and lengthening of the back are required.

The abduction of the midline of the back (bevel from the point of the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist line) is done in 1-2 cm for female figures and 1.5-2.5 cm for men. And even 3.5 cm for men's jackets.

The posture of people is different, including the deflection of the lower back and the protrusion of the buttocks, therefore, the removal of the midline must be “made” for a specific figure. See what it might look like:

Design techniques, as a rule, unify and average the constructed patterns, but in custom-tailoring there is Lifebuoy- samples.

I looked through my design library and found a difference in the authors' approaches to the middle back seam. Not all of them offer to withdraw.

Here is an overview of the most popular methods:

EMKO SEV - there is a branch
Muller - yes
Lin Jacques
Zlachevskaya G.M. - no in the general case, but there are exceptions for non-standard figures with a large deflection along the back.

In many good practices there is no abduction of the middle suture.

More options:
Kryuchkova G.A. - abduction is
Roslyakova T.A. -there is.

The question was asked to me just according to the method of Roslyakova. Look carefully at the construction scheme: Yes, there is a midline abduction. But along with the shift in the direction of the midline, the waist and bottom lines are also corrected: they make a right angle with the allotted back line. The axes of the tucks are drawn parallel to the allotted line of the back.

So the correct answer would be: the warp thread (share) when cutting out the back will coincide with the middle line, and not with the grid of the drawing.

The fact is that when applying one or another design technique, it is necessary to adhere to the philosophy and logic of a particular author. All construction nodes are interconnected and you need to be able to see the forest for the trees, that is, to understand the purpose of each constructive line in a particular technique. Roslyakova "shifts" the direction of the back, thereby shortening the line of the side. I personally did not make constructions using this method, so I will not undertake to analyze in depth.

To do or not to do back abduction?

And what about this middle seam and a bunch of smart techniques, if they weren't right?

Let's get closer to practice, to sewing jackets, coats and well-fitting dresses. Stop at the method that is clear and close to you. Remember that this is a myth.

I always make the middle seam on the back allotted (except for shirts, of course). I make a standard withdrawal along the waist line of 2 cm (like Muller), and then I look at the figure:

• There may be protruding buttocks (I add a positive lead along the hip line), there may be fat deposits in the cervical vertebrae (I add a positive lead along the neck line).
• There may be a strong deflection in the lower back (I make a larger bend along the waistline)
• I leave a sufficient allowance along the midline of the back and stab at the fitting middle back for a beautiful posture. Obviously, this line will not be straight, as in the drawing. Be careful here: you can’t take all the excess volumes and simply “capture” into the middle seam. The balance of the width and the distribution of excess allowances for CO must be harmonious.
• I outline the line for sewing zippers in dresses at the last fitting, when I am completely satisfied with the fit of the product.