In clothing is now very popular. This does not mean that everyone around begins to wear floor-length sundresses, kokoshniks and bast shoes. It's just that some of the individual components of the outfit are reminiscent of the past. A lady dressed in Russian style does not look like a girl from fairy tales. She, on the contrary, emphasizes her deep knowledge of fashion. The most famous designers create collections with Khokhloma and Gzhel elements.

Colors

In clothes it is expressed in several colors, these are red, white, cream, less often blue and brown. They are combined with embroideries, ornaments, prints imitating folk crafts. Shades of black were considered mourning in Russia, so they were almost never used. Although now they can be applied in combination with a bright accent.

Outerwear

What can be outerwear? Russian style is found even in this part of the wardrobe. Such a thing is made in the form of a cut. It is usually monochromatic with a bright element such as ornament or embroidery. Outerwear may be with fur on the collar or sleeves.

At the same time, hats with pompons and the like that are now fashionable cannot be worn on the head. The best option is a lace or pavlovo-posad shawl. Look good on older ladies fur hats. The length of the coat depends on the height of the girl. The lower it is, the shorter you need to choose a model.

If you do not like coats, but want to have a Russian style in clothes, then you can purchase a down jacket with an appropriate print. To him should pick up the national "earflaps". Dilute the fur coat with a pavlovo-posad shawl. Also worn fur vests. Previously, they were worn over a dress, but this will not work for cold weather. Still, the Russian winter is severe. Yves Saint Laurent introduced sheepskin coats into fashion. This is a great alternative for those who want to stay warm but don't have the money for a fur coat and find a coat boring.

Shoes

In Russia, in ancient times, noble nobles preferred exquisite, elegant shoes. Clothing in the Russian style must be complemented by red ankle boots. In winter, you can wear boots. For several years they were not used, they were considered rustic old-fashioned. But lately, designers have begun to create truly amazing things. Yes, ordinary gray boots decorated with embroidery in the national style, have a print of nesting dolls. Some models even wear heels. Therefore, if you are seriously engaged in filling your wardrobe in the Russian style, buy fashionable felt boots. For spring, red rubber or leather boots will go well.

Accessories

Accessories are large fur mittens, hats, a muff, pavlovo-posad shawls. Women's clothing in the Russian style, creating a certain image, takes into account these, at first glance, insignificant details. First of all, you should take care of your hair. Braid the braid in any way. good for those who have long hair, the rest can buy an overhead braid. Weave a red ribbon into your hair, put on a headband. Plain beads, bracelets and earrings will help to complete the look.

It is allowed to use glasses, although they have not been worn before. The bag should look harmonious with the whole outfit. So, only a plain handbag is suitable for a bright dress. This is the most advantageous option, because it can be combined with other clothes later. But a white clutch with Khokhloma is much more difficult to apply. It will suit only a white embroidered shirt and a dress in this style.

Style

A real modern one should be knee-length. A little higher is allowed, but just a little. If the neckline is open, then the hands are necessarily closed. Sleeves may be missing. In this case, the straps should be wide or made in the form of "flashlights". Well if long sleeves Tight arms only on cuffs. Girls prefer traditional clothes, as if taken from their grandmother's chest. The Russian style of dress looks harmonious and interesting on them. The photo below is proof of that. But not everyone takes the risk of dressing like that. Many simply dilute the image with some element, not even paying attention to makeup and hair.

The fabric itself can be anything from satin to cotton. But in order to repeat the Russian image in the finest details, purchase things made from natural materials.

Makeup

Any image will look complete only in combination with makeup. Russian-style clothing is no exception. Lips should be emphasized with red, eyelashes should only be slightly tinted. Ideally, when a girl highlights her eyebrows, and generously blushes her cheeks. But remember: natural beauty is welcome. Therefore, it is irrelevant to achieve the appearance of a nesting doll. Cosmetics should be in moderation.

Who will go? Where to wear?

Russian style of dress will suit almost every girl. It just looks better on some. Naturally, this applies to the Slavic appearance. Welcome tall, big eyes, plump lips, long Brown hair. Complementing such a bow with a modest character and diligence, we get a real “Russian beauty”. Even the weight of the lady is not important. Lush forms are characteristic of wealthy noblewomen, and peasant women were thin.

You can wear this style anywhere. It all depends on the style and color. So, a long plain dress, decorated with some element of the Old Russian province, is preferably only for the evening. A bright floral sundress will look good during the day. A tracksuit with flowers will go for the gym or street jogging. Russian style in clothes is in any case a great solution for a photo shoot. Choose the most different time of the year:

• For winter, tie a scarf on your head, put on felt boots, a sheepskin coat, a fur coat or a coat. Braid the braid and do the appropriate makeup. The best place for a photo shoot there will be a village or a forest.
• In the summer, go to the same village or field, where there are more ears of corn. Put on a sundress, red beads. Feet must be bare. Be sure to braid the braid, put a wreath on your head.

In both seasons, you can sit at a table on the veranda next to the samovar and bagels. It would be nice to try on a kokoshnik, but due to the fact that it is richly decorated with beads, such an element is usually very expensive. Moreover, it cannot be used anywhere except for a photo shoot. It is worth choosing modest poses to give the impression of a girl from the past.

Bow variant

Russian clothing style can be expressed in different variations and used at any time of the year. The most popular models are created in a certain color scheme with the addition of one bright element. For example:

• A red dress that accentuates the waist with a Khokhloma belt.
• Sweatpants with Khokhloma stripes on the seams.
• White dress trimmed at the edges with a border in the Gzhel style.
• Dress with embroidery of national ornaments.
• Straight-cut sundress with wide straps.
• Often, fashionistas leave their choice on a bright skirt with a matching print and a plain top.
• A white loose shirt with a folk pattern plus a puffy skirt.
• Dress, blouse with lace on the collar.

These are a few examples of clothes that are most often found in stores.

If you have a dress in white or red, then you can easily give it a twist with a Russian accent. Cross stitching will help with this. Using the appropriate ornament, create any flowers different shades or make a frame around the edges. So, a boring, monophonic thing will become much more interesting.

Russian style in clothes gives the girl femininity and sophistication. You can only have a Pavlovo-Posad shawl, a Khokhloma element or red boots, and the image will already give off notes of a beauty from the people. Such clothes will be appropriate for any event. It is not for nothing that the world catwalks often present clothes of this style. Although sometimes the images are too extravagant and retain only some elements of the Russian folk style.

Discover the wonderful world of Russian style in women's clothing. world podium in different countries and continents, he appreciated the originality and relevance of outfits in the Russian style.

Russian ethno direction in modern fashion becomes extremely popular, although it is considered a little original, it differs from other styles in its naturalness, colorfulness and expressiveness.

Folk motifs are present in almost all collections of modern fashion designers, they create an image of simplicity, originality and even shyness.

The increased popularity of the Russian style in clothing prompted us to create a separate publication on this topic. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the basic concepts of the Russian style in the women's wardrobe and get acquainted with its key features.

This fashion has long been loved by many beauties.

Basic concepts in Russian style

Distinctive original symbols that distinguish the Russian style in clothing are: Khokhloma patterns, township shawls, nesting dolls.
From the beginning of its appearance to the present day, such an outfit is an unusual combination. modern motifs with national Russian elements, embodying in comfortable and convenient everyday things for every day.

Where and when did the Russian style originate?

Since 1910, the Russian style began to conquer the world in small steps. The French Couturier Paul Poiret came to Russia and was amazed by the local culture, returning to his homeland, in 1911 he created the first European fashion clothes with Slavic style. These were dresses embroidered with gold thread, coats with a voluminous floral pattern, reminiscent of the patterns of Pavloposad shawls, hats made of expensive Siberian furs, especially liked by the Parisian public and became Russian classics of style.

Until now, Western couturiers associate Russian chic with exoticism, aristocratic sophistication, and luxury.
From 1920 to 1930 Russian style clothing takes a leading position in the worlds of fashion with the help of the first wave of emigration. Designers Jeanne Lanvin and Paul Poiret, fashion houses Paul Caret, Worth and others created for their clients wedding and evening headdresses made to look like a kokoshnik, straight-cut blouses and wrap dresses with a clasp, embroidered with a symbolic ornament or painted like a lubok, voluminous long coats with stand-up collars like boyars.
Coco Chanel came up with dress shirts with an embroidered belt and collar, matching bags worn over the shoulder, suits and coats embroidered with beads and decorated with fur.

Yves Saint Laurent released a collection in 1976 called "Russian Ballets", which aroused great interest in the West in the mysterious Russian traditions. Boyars were presented on the podium. bouffant skirts high-waisted, Russian-style coat, printed, knitted White dress, made to look like a nesting doll, painted scarves, sheepskin vests. The French Couturier fixed the Russian style in the fashion of world capitals for many years.

The history of the name of the Russian style

At the origins of the name of the Russian style is still the French fashion innovator Paul Poiret, who secured the national decoration of Russia with his collection.

In Europe, under the word "Russian" they represent: 1) scarves with a woven printed pattern of wool, cotton, silk have been worn in Russia since the end of the 17th century. They complemented and even replaced the headdress of a woman of all classes, and were also part of the outfit as an ornament.

2) COAT, which was worn by our queens and princesses of the XIX century. These are long, fitted, generously decorated with fur and expensive embroidery with high collars. Noble ladies at that time were distinguished by gold embroidery and beaded decoration on the upper layer, the fabric was made of felt, plush, velvet, brocade, always with a silk lining.
3) A hat with earflaps, which became the Russian national headdress in the 19th century. The hat is made of suede or fur with flaps sewn to the sides and back.


During the Great Patriotic War women in the service tried on men's uniforms, and from that time on, a hat with earflaps finally established itself as a ladies' wardrobe.

Clothes in the Russian style and its main features

There are very few original Russian distinctive clothes in the wardrobe: a long sundress, a shirt-shirt, a winter caftan and a scarf. But any clothes that exist now can be decorated in a Russian theme. For example, with the help of hand-tied thin lace, Russian-style drawings on fabric, hemstitch embroidery.

Russian style accessories and its features

The decoration of the Russian style are:

• - colorful ribbons;
• - flower wreaths;
• - bracelets made of wood and leather;
• -beads.

You can also complement the image with stylized earrings, a kokoshnik embroidered with stones and beads. You can use colorful shawls, scarves, capes as an outfit.

The relevance of the Russian style

Properly selected clothes in the Russian folk style will make you stand out in a gray faceless crowd of identical outfits, allowing you to look original, beautiful and not ordinary.
A girl in such clothes will certainly attract the attention of others, causing considerable interest.

Who will suit the Russian style and why?

Russian style in modern clothes, undoubtedly, is very suitable for women of the Slavic type of appearance, emphasizing their ethnic origin.

This style is suitable for any age, any physique. After all, in long sundress with vertical uneven lines or a wide caftan, you can hide your appetizing forms in the best possible way.

Who does not suit the Russian style and why

It is undesirable for people with an African skin type to resort to the Russian style of clothing, since the image is created on the contradictions of style and appearance.
Blonde women with curvaceous forms are not recommended to use clothes painted with Gzhel in their image, they will emphasize even greater fullness, making the figure wider, and blonde hair will make you faceless against its background.

Russian style 2017. New trends

Unusual and elegant evening dress created in Russian style in spring-summer 2016 will be fashionable in any decor variations. For example, golden embroidery, flared hem, voluminous flowers, and so on. The dress should be long, without a pronounced waist.

It is worth noting that clothes with Russian patterns are, as a rule, red and white colors and a floral print.

In the new year, the fashion for red and white colors is extremely popular among designers. Western Europe. It is enough to skim through several dozen collections from the spring-summer season to make sure that red and white have become the unspoken favorites of the new season. It is with this that the revival of relevance is associated this style in a modern women's wardrobe.

Prints are used: flowers or folk patterns that emphasize the figure and good taste. Focus on the stars dressed in the Russian theme.

Stars in Russian style

Many celebrities use the Russian style in their image: Ksenia Sobchak, Alena Vodonaeva, Miroslava Duma, Natalia Vodyanova, Ulyana Sergeenko and many others.

Fashion collections in Russian style

In 2016, fashion designers prepared a collection of clothes in the Russian style: Yulia Yanina with a collection of autumn-winter 2015-2016, Vyacheslav Zaitsev with a new ethnic style fashion collection.
Russian style in clothes has always been and remains a fashion trend. And if you are not a true adherent of folk motives, at least one detail of your wardrobe must be made or decorated in the Russian style, this will attract the attention of not only men, but will also make many women jealous.

Fashionable ethnic style

Surely the brightest, most memorable, most colorful is. And not only because his range of outfit coverage is much greater than in any other, but also because ethno style is a style of good mood.

Briefly about historical facts

Ethnic style involves the use of various elements and items of clothing of national costumes. Pay attention to everything, not just individual items and their elements, but also materials, cut, accompanying shoes and accessories.

Classical folk clothes from various countries (India, Russia, Egypt, Greece, etc.) are increasingly being used to create modern collections and fashionable bows.

The main rules that designers adhere to when creating robes are giving maximum comfort and naturalness.

For the first time, ethnic style in clothing began to be promoted among hippies.

It was quite normal to find Indian saris somewhere in the wilderness of Canada or painted fabrics and floral scarves in a modern city in the USA.

Similarly, various Greek, Russian and African motifs fell in love.

Ethnic style in clothes for the first time surprised from the podium in the 10s of the XX century. Exactly then famous designer P. Poiret showed the whole world an extraordinary collection of clothes in the East Asian style. As some say, his ethnic style was inspired by none other than the Scheherazade ballet.

Later, a collection with Slavic roots was also created, which was called "Kazan". A little later, at the age of 20-30, the unforgettable Coco Chanel also fell in love with the ethnic style and continued the work of Poiret: she created new Slavic collections.

Motifs of hot Africa in collections fashion designers Philip Miller and Yves Saint Laurent impressed many.

The ethnic style of these masterpieces was reflected in the use of fringes, plant and animal designs, various turbans, headbands and prints in the form of mythological birds. Ethnic garments are increasingly appearing in fashion shows. The last of them were Balmain, Kenzo and Christian Dior.

Egypt

The clothes of many designers here and there hide echoes of the mysterious ancient egypt. First of all, this is expressed in a certain color scheme: white, blue, gold, turquoise and yellow.

As prints, they most often prefer to use various ancient hieroglyphs, geometric figures or images of the elements, pharaohs, symbols of Egypt (scarab beetles, lotus flowers, various deities and birds).

Egyptian ethno style practically does not limit the choice of fabrics. Here you can safely choose linen, silk, fur and wool, leather and suede. decorative elements metal plates, embroidery and fringe are preferred.

A variety of women's tunics, floor-length dresses over one shoulder, richly decorated fabrics - this is how fashion dictated to women in those days.

Men also chose loose tunics and loose shirts, which were usually adorned under the bust or at the level of the hips.

Greece

Greek ethnic style is a bit similar to Egyptian. This fashion also includes loose-fitting items for both men (tunics, shirts, pants) and women (floor-length dresses or middle length). However, Greek fashion, in comparison with Egyptian, has become more elegant. Freedom and comfort remained, but at the same time some zest was added.

If Egyptian fashion was focused on geometric shapes in cut, then in the Greek one can observe V-shaped necklines, as well as more feminine silhouettes of dresses. Of the main fabrics, light, translucent ones were preferred: chiffon, silk, some types of fine knitwear. Dresses made from such “flying” fabrics flowed beautifully along the figure and emphasized female silhouettes. From colors they tried to choose pastel colors, white, gold, blue, and from prints - drawings of plants and trees.

Russia

Russian traditional clothing holds a special place in the hearts of designers, especially for the abundant use of embroidered elements, buttons and colorful motifs.

There is a complete variety in the choice of fabrics: silk, linen, cotton, satin and velvet, cloth and even lace, which were additionally decorated with embroidery, beads, numerous stones, fur inserts and fringe.

Russian fashion is full of colors: bright red, green, blue, brown, terracotta, black and gold - all these colors were actively used in clothes.

The golden color in clothes at all times enjoyed great recognition among women, it is not inferior in its popularity even now.Prints are dominated by geometric patterns, images of plants, flowers, birds and animals.

It is this fashion that is known for its bell skirts, felt boots, colorful scarves, A-line sundresses, fur coats, men's shirts from linen and cotton with ties at the chest, jackets and a variety of both short and long vests with luxurious fur elements and trimmings.

And all this was actively decorated with embroidered threads and gold elements, decorated precious stones, beads and expensive fabrics (brocade, satin and velvet).

India

Incredibly colorful and vibrant country. In it, not only the various clothes of women and men are bright, but also their most famous spices. in their own way bright colors compete with Russian.

Indian ethnic clothing is full of all the colors of the rainbow: pink, purple, red, gold, white, turquoise and orange.

But, unlike many countries, each color in this country has its own meaning. The most popular pattern is paisley ("Indian cucumber"), as well as a variety of geometric ornaments, flowers and images of sacred animals. Since India is a fairly warm country, the most popular fabrics are linen, chiffon and silk.

main feature- It's multi-layered. Like Egyptian fashion, Indian also has women's outfits over one shoulder. At the same time, the piece of fabric that is worn on the shoulder is decorated the most. Often, all outfits for both women and men are elongated.

Representatives of the stronger sex wear elongated button-down jackets and elongated shirts.

Indian fashion is a real rainbow of colors. At the same time, ethnic clothing does not make a clown out of a person, but gives grace and some mystery.

Africa

Roasts are known for their sand, coffee and milk, terracotta and white tones. To make some color accents, red, white and blue colors were sometimes added.

African folk clothes are just a storehouse of numerous prints. It is almost impossible to find plain clothes in it: on each of them you will see a variety of drawings and patterns - the claws of animals, trees and stones, feathers and claws of birds.

Women's ethnic or folklore is quite diverse: sundresses, shorts and skirts of various lengths, tunics, short tops, blouses and swing cardigans.

Men's fashion in Africa involves wearing loose-fitting trousers and shorts, loose-sleeved shirts and jackets with various drapery and decor elements: fringe, stones, cord weaving, wooden and metal objects.

African ethnic style has its own charm. Lightweight fabrics, intricate patterns and accessories made primarily from natural materials(amulets made of stones and fangs, various weaving of leather cords, wooden beads) have a certain magic and attractive primitiveness.

Some things that bear the imprint of a particular culture, one way or another, are in the closet of every fashionista. There are several simple recommendations that will allow you to combine modern tendencies with folklore accents:

• ethno style involves the use of those colors that are characteristic of a particular country or direction, for example: either these are geometric patterns of Egypt, or bright floral Slavic prints;
• try not to combine some futuristic things with ethnic ones: pay attention to light fabrics and free, flowing lines;
• sometimes just one item is enough to embody an ethnic trend: a light sari or a floor-length sand sundress with bright beads will create unique image and charm;
• accessories and shoes require special attention: woven leather and wooden sandals, open sandals and moccasins are popular, and among accessories there are various decorations that were inherent in a particular era.

Ethno does not lose its popularity. Famous world designers do not cease to delight with new collections. Their garments are inspired by Egyptian, Russian, Indian, Japanese, African and other cultures. Every year, at the next shows of world designers (John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli, etc.), new breathtaking ethnic clothes appear on the catwalks, which combine modern requirements and ancient traditions of a particular country.

Three Russian brands prove:

tradition can be trendy

In India, it is easy to meet a woman in a sari, but it is unlikely that you have ever seen a man in a shirt or a girl in a kokoshnik in the center of Moscow. “The national costume in everyday life will look more extravagant than fashionable,” admits Natalya Loginova, head of the D3 Fashion and Design Center (All-Russian Museum of Decorative, Applied and Folk Art). “But turning to traditions is one of the trends in modern design.”

Russian style returns to the catwalks and to life. But, oddly enough, few people can explain what it is. "Khokhloma? Nesting dolls? Yes and no," says Loginova. "Vladimir Pozner somehow said that the Russian style is, first of all, impudence. And I agree with this. Our designers are bold. And in last years in Russia there are more and more of them, although fashion is not the easiest way to make money."

We talk about three Russian fashion brands. Some of our heroes already have a showroom in the center of Moscow. Some people still sell things online. But they all work in Russian. Boldly.

Embroidery, aprons, ancient motifs and a scientific approach

Svetlana Levadnaya, brand Levadnaja Details

“One woman saw our apron at the exhibition and immediately bought it. I dissuaded her,” says Svetlana Levadnaya. “Because it is not the cheapest thing, and not the most necessary thing in the 21st century. I was worried that my husband would not like such an expensive purchase ... And he saw the apron and said: "Finally, you bought yourself something normal!"

"Russian is not yellow-red!" - says Svetlana. She is sure that most of our women are muted colors.

Items from Levadnaja Details are really expensive: they are made only from natural fabrics (mainly silk, cashmere and Italian linen) and each has beadwork and semi-precious stones, which takes at least a month handmade. And not every girl can wear such clothes: try to offer someone to tie an apron over jeans or put on a kokoshnik with evening dress. "My clients are very strong and confident women," says Svetlana. "Lost, confused people don't come to us."

Today, references to Russian folk costumes can already be seen both on the podium and at social events. Svetlana started her business in 2006 and says that at that time they "looked at her like she was crazy."

Svetlana Levadnaya

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The first skirt we made was knee length with a black velvet apron. And many reacted to it like this: "God, what is this?" Everything national was unfashionable, incomprehensible. Sometimes my hands dropped - it seemed that this could not be changed

Svetlana Levadnaya

Designer Svetlana Levadnaya has never been a fashionista. But everything Russian has been loved since childhood. "When I was about nine years old, my mother ordered a blouse for me," she recalls.

Embroidery - business card brand. One thing takes at least a month of manual work

Svetlana was born and raised in the Crimea, studied in Germany, and in 2004 moved to Moscow. She is a linguist, translator, and she took up her own brand in a scientific way: she studied museum exhibits and collected a whole library about embroidery and folk costumes. Svetlana wanted to make fashion in Russian. And the prototype of her models is not Pavlovo Posad shawls, which were created only at the end of the 18th century. These are ancient things, still pre-Christian (Svetlana does not like the word "pagan"). With embroidery, shoulders (this is something like wide collars) and amulets.

Svetlana Levadnaya

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For our scarves, we take patterns from books and museum exhibits. In fact, these are not just patterns. Every symbol there means something. All our clients want to know what. But no one will ever translate this language, at most - individual signs. If someone tells you that he has read everything, do not believe

Svetlana Levadnaya

The original Russian costume is now commonly called peasant. Because since the time of Peter I, only simple people. Cutting through a window to Europe, the tsar forbade wearing Russian clothes at court. One can argue for a long time whether this decision was the right one - we will never know what our life would be like without that "Europeanization". Svetlana calls that decree "an arrow to the very heart." “The Russian costume has never been just clothes,” she explains. “It was a saga written in patterns. It told about the human race, about his desires ... Compared to what it was, we are like a weak sprout next to a powerful tree. But at least I can do that."

Mantles - something like collars - can be worn with dresses and with simple T-shirts

Building your own brand is not easy. It is even more difficult to start selling things that are not even close to the mass market - neither in versatility, nor in price. Svetlana collected money bit by bit. And having sold the first dress (then, 12 years ago, it cost 3-4 thousand euros), she invested the entire amount in boxes: "Decent packaging is the first thing to do. It shows that the designer respects his work." Then there was the first small showroom. Levadnaya tried to expand and move every year. Today she has a large showroom in the center of Moscow.

Svetlana does not sew herself. But since the age of five he has been painting. For her brand, she created a special embroidery.

Svetlana Levadnaya

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Many, when they see her, immediately say: "Are you an artist?" This is not handicraft embroidery, this is embroidery-painting. Now we have about 570 samples of it. I created them with my own hands, and then trained the first masters. This is our business card

Svetlana Levadnaya

The Levadnaja Details team has 20 embroiderers and four seamstresses. The showroom presents samples made for models. But the things you like are sewn for each specific customer. “You’re just tiny, so everything is a little big for you,” Svetlana tells me, while I try on a dress made of pale blue linen. “But it should sit loosely, we have almost no tight-fitting clothes. big bag and comfortable shoes. I don’t have enough nerves for heels. "Another dress - dusty pink, floor-length, made of thick silk - looks more like an evening dress. All models have very simple styles: otherwise the embroidery and ornament will look too catchy. And the colors are mostly muted , although there are also several bright models. "Slavic women do not go riot of colors," explains Svetlana. “But clients from the Caucasus also find something for themselves, they just need to be selected more carefully.”

In these clothes it is easy to feel like a Russian beauty - regardless of nationality

Svetlana admits that her brand leans more towards art than commerce. Some of her clients say they would like to pass these things on by inheritance. “We have two categories of buyers. One is women who are very wealthy, very independent. And the second is women with an average income who save up for several months and then order,” she says. “We get letters from different cities of Russia, especially often from Siberia Even if they do not buy, they say: "Thank you for being you, we thought no one is doing this anymore."

Svetlana is sure that most people have a distorted idea of ​​the Russian style. And it is important for her to show people: Russian clothes are beautiful. “I always say: Russian culture is five stars. And Russian fashion is haute couture,” she says. “Creating a thing, I always think: is this worthy of being considered a continuation of those traditions? .

Nina Samokhina, Secret Garden brand

"As a child, for some reason I was embarrassed to tell my mother that I wanted to sew. Somehow I bought lining fabric, green, with a sheen - it seemed to me that the fabric is very beautiful, like silk, - says Nina Samokhina. - I sewed myself a skirt on the sly for the New Year. It turned out to be a complete crap, I never wore it. Mom says: “This is a lining, they don’t sew from this, why didn’t you ask me?” And I say: “I don’t know, I thought it was beautiful, but you wouldn’t let me buy it ...”

Nina is just starting to work on her brand: so far she had only one big collection

Now Nina's mother helps her daughter to sew collections. And once she sewed and knitted clothes for her daughters. Once I redid an unsuccessful jacket given by someone: “There the color was not very good and the coquette was big. And my mother cut off the coquette, knitted a new one, sewed it on, made the lining out of a rabbit ... Then my sister went to it. The jacket became a hit, I still remember it ". Then in Soviet years and in the early 90s, everyone altered something, and Nina's grandmother even made silk flowers at home - they wore them like brooches. "Looks like Gucci," laughs Nina.

That unsuccessful skirt did not stop Nina - she sewed all her childhood. But she went to study as an architect, and there was no time for models. In 2014 she moved from Minsk to Moscow, she was going to enter the British Higher School of Design for illustration. And in parallel, she was preparing for the wedding and decided to sew a dress for herself. Then she even wanted to open a wedding agency, but instead she founded the Secret Garden brand.

So far, Nina had only one large collection - a diploma. “I wanted to make it completely out of outerwear, but the curator said that it would be better if it was more diverse,” says Nina. outerwear I decided to do it because there is not enough of it. Our mass markets are mostly Spanish, they don’t quite understand what minus 20–25 degrees means.” Therefore, Nina’s collection includes a velvet bomber jacket (it is insulated and designed for frost up to 22 degrees), a scarf hat (“I call it "perelina"), a beige raincoat ("Dana Scully in The X-Files wore a raincoat all the time - I thought she was so beautiful!") and warm coats. One of them was made from mohair Soviet scarves: "I looked for them all over Moscow, and then I selected them by color. Mohair has a long pile, when you grind it, you then have to go through with a needle and pull it out of the seams - then the seams will not be noticeable."

Nina says that in her models there are motives of the Soviet past, although she did not really find this past - she is only 28. But in her childhood there were grandmother's chests, Soviet patterns and old albums. “We played cards with my grandmother - she was telling something ... So for me this is familiar and dear, although I myself did not experience it.” And she also has in her head a "batch" from the movie "Amelie" and the cartoon "Prostokvashino". "The palette is very mine there. All the colors - deep green, for example - are just the way they should be. And my mother is very French there - these scarves, kareshka ... But at the same time, the interiors, the walls - everything is drawn, as it was with us. The whole atmosphere - native Soviet, and my mother is such a little girl.

Nina reflects all this "Soviet flair" in her clothes. Even the velvet bomber jacket, which looks very modern, refers to childhood memories: "It's big, round, it looks like a balloon. It's like in winter in childhood, when you were put on five sweaters, a fur coat, a hat, and they hold you by a scarf from behind." Russians folk motives her clothes also have it: for example, one coat was tailored on the basis of a Russian shirt. And in one of the prints there are motifs of Russian tiles: "I used to feel ashamed to draw something similar: can't you come up with anything? But you still process, add your own."

Nina especially loves prints - she is an illustrator. She had a mini collection of colorful shirts. For one of them, the girl collected and digitized a herbarium: the result was a print with leaves. "In Britain, I was a bit of an alien. Usually everything is concise, architectural. And I wanted to do something funny. Although I understand that not all people are ready to wear it." Nina had to abandon the "crazy retro shirts" with big bows: it turned out that for most of her friends it was too much. "I don't want to go into art at all," she says. "Clothes are a utilitarian item."

Nina is an illustrator, and prints that she creates herself are important in her clothes.

So far, Nina does not have her own production. She works at home, side by side (or rather, back to back) with her engineer husband, sometimes interrupted by yoga. Nina has several jobs: her own brand does not yet bring enough income, she has to take orders. She partly sews clothes herself, partly at local factories. Sometimes things from the collections are sewn for a specific buyer, fitting to his figure. " A good option: the thing fits well, it’s definitely sold, everyone is happy, - Nina smiles. “It’s not like my whole closet is full, but there’s no money.” She also doesn’t have a showroom yet, all sales are through social networks and acquaintances.

Now Nina sews to order Wedding Dress- the second in his life. She also works on prints with cats and fur coats from natural fur. "How do I see the Russian style today? - Nina thinks. - It is fur. Patterned. Warm. Fairytale. Ironic. With bright juicy colors." Sounds like a description of her future collections.

Furs, peacocks, fairy tales and hats for the Russian winter

Natalia Khovanskaya and Nastya Vyaz, Tsar Bird brand

“How difficult it is with sleeves here,” I say, trying on a shower warmer - something like a jacket with gathers at the waist. Her sleeves "release" her arms just below the elbows, but do not end, but hang down like ribbons. “They only seem uncomfortable from the outside,” says Nastya Vyaz. “You quickly get used to them,” adds Natalya Khovanskaya. “It’s like you have a servant: at first it’s strange, and then it’s like it’s necessary.” In this outfit, you really want to straighten your back and look around for a servant. And then sit on a trio of horses and go somewhere to eat pancakes with caviar.

The creation of a model begins with the fabric - as Natalia explains, she dictates the style

Natalya is a classic Russian beauty: blond hair, braid, transparent Blue eyes. Nastya looks like a Bashkir or Japanese: "Although in my family everyone up to the fourth generation is either Russian or from Ukraine. I don't know why I turned out like that!" And together they create clothes from Russian fairy tales.

Nastya went to kindergarten in childhood yellow blouse, like a tailcoat. Her mother sewed, wore hats and watched with her daughter records of all the High Fashion Weeks that she could find. Natalya made herself short at the age of eight green skirt from my mother's favorite dress (she, of course, cursed terribly) and later continued to sew, but learned to be an economist. Nastya received a diploma in physics, but worked as a stylist. Their brand was born when she began to select clothes for Natalia. “I realized that there is no adequate offer for those who suit the Russian style,” she says. “These are either Pavlovo Posad shawls or half a million rubles dresses. And we began to invent clothes ourselves.”

And then in London and Paris, they began to approach the girls and ask where they could buy this. “We jokingly said that we have our own brand, and people began to ask for contacts,” says Natalya. So they joked that in 2017 they founded Tsar Bird.

The girls wanted to "modernize" traditional Russian clothes, keeping its idea. At first, looking at shower jackets, fur mantles (similar to voluminous collars) and blouses, it is not very clear how and where they can be worn. But if you measure, there will be no questions left. “When we created the mantle, I thought: God, what are we doing? Yes, it looks fabulous, but how practical will it be?” Natalya recalls. I feel comfortable in it, and for the first week I wear it without taking it off at all." Natalya also wears warm hats in the cold season, similar to Russian kokoshniks: "We made them on purpose, because we wanted to look beautiful both in winter and in summer."

Now Nastya is mainly engaged in design, and Natalia - in organization. Tsar Bird does not yet have its own production and showroom - things are sewn in factories and sold via the Internet. Most buyers are from Russia, but there are also abroad. The business is not yet profitable and does not even pay off, but, as Natalya says, according to all the canons, it should be so.

Creating a brand, Natalia and Anastasia saw their clients as women taking care of the house and children. But their clothes were more to the taste of actively working ladies, often with their own business. “It is important for them to look beautiful and bright, but not to spend a lot of time on it,” explains Natalia. “And our things are self-sufficient, they do not need to be supplemented with anything. You put on a dress, shoes, fix your makeup - and in a minute you are ready to go out ". Tsar Bird also has male clients - they mainly sew blouses for them.

In these clothes it is difficult to imagine yourself at work or on the subway. But the girls explain: they want their clients to look bright every day.

Doing something non-standard is always risky: you can not find your customers and burn out. But the girls are sure: if you create, then create something unique. "Sewing pencil skirts and blouses is pointless," says Natalia. "Everyone does it." However, they also have a pencil skirt and a black blouse in their collection. I put this blouse on backwards first. “We always say: if you don’t know which side to put on a thing, then it’s definitely designer,” Natalya laughs.

Clothing in folk style or as it is also mistakenly called folk style.

Today there are such concepts as “folklore style”, folk style, ethno-folk, etc. But we want to draw your attention to the fact that the word “folklore” is more related to the oral, verbal and musical creativity of the people. Folklore literally means “folk wisdom”, and the concept of “folk” style in clothes has developed as an erroneous understanding of the Russian folk costume, the basis of which was the stage costume of folklore ensembles, and not traditional Russian folk costume!

The very concept of "folklore" has an indirect relation to clothing.

This difference must be well understood. Because the folk style is not what the modern Russian costume is in essence, but how they want to see us from the outside in modern world. Many researchers, ethnographers or reenactors contemptuously refer to folk-style costumes as "cranberries". Especially cynical and bilious people call folklore costumes or costumes of folklore ensembles "Martian" costumes. But we do not consider the style of folklore ensembles to be something unacceptable or offensive. Because the modern Russian folklore costume was created for the stage, and when it is created without a hint of vulgarity or does not expose the body, it can be a bright and beautiful example of a stage costume.

Often it is folk style connoisseurs who use patterns of household utensils or dishes such as “Gzhel” and “Khokhloma” to create prints on fabric for tailoring. Of course, it looks like kitsch and is inappropriate when creating a decent and complete image of the Russian style, but it is suitable for the folk style. Because, unfortunately, many people know only Khokhloma and Gzhel patterns, and do not even suspect that this is not embroidery, but painting.

Dishes with painting in the style of "Gzhel"

Folk style implies only a shallow study of Russian costume and traditions, and the desire to shock or attract the public in the first place. Folk style implies the presence of an audience.

Folk style and folk style. Features and differences.

Clothing in folk style is always out of time and circumstances.

Folk style combines elements of national costumes different peoples. There is a folk style in India, China, Japan, Mexico ... Russia ... But you can’t combine elements of costumes of different cultures in one outfit: you can’t dress up in a sari, kokoshnik and cowboy boots, it will be ridiculous, unless you are, of course, a hippie.
The folk style differs from the Russian style in its nationality and brightness. The fashion designer of Russian costume and Russian style today is Valentina Averyanova. The Russian style includes both folk and boyar costumes, and the folk costume is the clothes of the simple Russian people. An excellent example of Russian folk style is Valentino spring 2015:

We will talk not only about how to properly wear folk-style clothes, but what the modern concept means: clothes in folklore style.
It is customary to sew outfits in folk style from natural fabrics in natural colors. Very handy will be embroidery, all kinds of patterned fabrics, lace, braid.

Folk style requires following traditions, folk style is a modern interpretation and reflection on the topic of folk costume.

In the folk style, you can easily make an appliqué on clothes or a patchwork pattern, in the style of a patchwork. Yes, this is typical patchwork quilts, but we remind you that folk style implies such confusion and mixing different techniques, patterns and attributes. Geometric patterns are perfectly combined within the folk style with the structure of the fabric. It will also be moderately appropriate to use beads, sequins, beads or floral motifs, especially in the folk style - patterns with drawings of roses from Zhostovo trays.

If you want to emphasize the waist, a wide laced or leather belt will do. Folklore style will allow you to collect all the elements of Russian outfits in one image: sundresses, wide skirts, short fur coats. And in addition to them - large Pavlo-Pasad shawls with tassels, accessories with Russian painting and wooden jewelry.

Russian style national costume accentuate a straight or trapezoidal silhouette. It will hide the flaws of the figure and will not hinder movement. Unfortunately, the folk style does not mean following the traditional cut of the Russian costume. To match the folk style, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the folk image, but it is not necessary to follow the cut. But if this is difficult for you, then you can simply add modern suit details of the Russian costume, the main thing is their natural combination. Shoes fit all kinds: in summer - ballet flats or shoes, in winter - boots or boots. In everyday life, folk style is ideal for relaxation.

Each country has its own folklore traditions, but designers boldly use folk images to create original costumes. It is also a chance to preserve the folk culture, the memory of the ancestors. For clothes of this style, a variety of natural jewelry, wooden beads, bracelets, various earrings. original outfits will help to attract attention, stand out from the crowd and emphasize the origin.
Many things you can just do yourself and save a little. The main rule of folklore style is not to mix clothes of different nationalities. There are holidays on which the folk style of clothing is simply obligatory, but it is better to make a wedding with a dress code in the Russian style and take into account the origin of the bride and groom, if the ancestors are from a peasant environment, then you can make a bright and cheerful wedding with folk / folk style clothes , if the ancestors were noble, then the Russian style and boyar costumes for the bride and groom will do.

It is absolutely not necessary to mix different directions in one image, even such a similar concept as ethno-style. Do not combine a boyar costume with kitsch, and a Russian headdress with a miniskirt - it looks vulgar, vulgar and inappropriate.

Any clothes should be worn with pleasure, because a sincere smile and good mood will attract no less attention than a bright suit and a defiant look. Comfortable clothes will give confidence in one's own irresistibility, and a folk costume will emphasize the love for the Motherland.