Blouse, skirt and cameo for Monster High doll

9. sew the seams of the sleeves and side seams.

An old book that fell into my hands, dedicated to the organization of not only entertaining, but also educational and educational children's leisure, attracted my attention with a small section of tailoring for dolls. The author, not without reason, believes that any needlewoman will benefit from acquiring the skills of self-cutting and sewing, even if these skills are honed on dolls.

The edition, published in 1870, offers simple patterns clothes for dolls detailed description sewing models of corsets, knickers, shirts and dresses that were fashionable at that time.

Perhaps it would seem strange to the author of a book about children's leisure that in the 21st century, not only children, but also adults will be fond of sewing clothes for dolls. But now many needlewomen who are engaged in the manufacture of all kinds of designer dolls think very carefully and then sew with their own hands various details of the doll wardrobe ...

Let's see how easy it is to sew a shirt for a doll: this pattern is so versatile that dresses can also be made from it. various styles, and sundresses. It is enough to change the shape of the neckline, add a belt at the waist, gather the sleeves or sew a frill to the hem and you will get a completely different outfit!

Doll shirt

Both parts are folded with the right sides inward and swept along the side seams. Then they fold the bottom of the hem, iron it with an iron and carefully hem it. After that, the shirt is sewn along the shoulder seams and, like the hem, the edges of the sleeves are processed.

If available sewing machine, then the side seams are sewn on it or sewn by hand with a machine seam. After that, they begin to process the neck: a small strip of fabric is folded in half along the long side, sewn or ironed. Then the strip is sewn to the neck, starting from one side of the slit on the front of the shirt and finishing on the opposite side of the slit. The edges of the cut are folded inside out and treated with an overcast or decorative seam.

It is possible to simplify the task of processing the neck, but for this you will have to make not the same details of the shirt, but two different ones: on the front, the neckline is drawn a little deeper, and on the back, it is left the same as on the original pattern. The front and back parts are sewn together as described above, and the neck is processed with one strip, which is then ironed inward.

On the finished shirt, the collars and sleeves are decorated with lace, frills, small buttons, embroidery and other decorative elements.

Corset for a doll - the detail is also not very complicated, but it looks very stylish if you pick it up beautiful fabric and elements decorative finishes. The corset is usually made of dense fabric so that this piece of clothing can keep its shape well.

The proposed patterns of clothes for dolls are transferred to paper, after which the fabric is folded in half and the details of the front, back and wedges are cut out from it.

On the front part of the corset, cutouts marked with crosses are first sewn, a braid is sewn in the middle of the part from the wrong side, after which each half of the back part is sewn to the front part to the place where a smooth cutout for wedges is made (i.e. connecting the parts at points 1 and 2). The last step in working with the front part is sewing in wedges.

All seams are carefully smoothed and decorated with a narrow braid, the rest of the corset is also sheathed with the same braid. Then a border is cut out for processing the shoulders and the corresponding details are processed.

At some distance from the edges of the back details, stitches are laid, shown in the general drawing of the corset with a dotted line, overhead loops are cut and sewn at an equal distance from each other - their number will depend on the size of the corset. To properly sew on the buttons, fold both pieces of the back and stick pins into the loops to accurately mark where the buttons will be sewn on.

At the last stage of work, buttons are sewn on the front part and on each wedge - this was previously practiced in order to fasten pantaloons and skirts to the corset. Then a whalebone is inserted under the central braid and between both lines on the back; the same whalebone, but narrower, is also inserted into each seam of the front part between the fabric and the decorative braid. A strip is sewn onto the details of the back from the wrong side directly behind the buttons and loops, and with its help another whalebone is fixed.

Because in the 19th century, whalebone was very popular and was sold in all fabric and accessories stores, the author of the book suggested using this material for a doll corset. Nowadays, you can buy a whalebone, but with some difficulties, so when making clothes for dolls, you can use plastic cable ties with cut ends, strips cut out of plastic bottles or school plastic rulers.

In one of our earlier posts, we already talked about how sew women's pantaloons and gave them a pattern, now let's start making puppet pantaloons.

The simplest knickers are sewn like a shirt, folding the fabric four times, transferring the pattern to it and cutting out the front and back details at the same time. The point on the pattern, marked with a cross, falls on the fold of the fabric. Both parts are first ground along the side seams, then along the inside.

The resulting pantaloons are sewn along the remaining seams and proceed to the processing of the belt and bottom. The fabric along the waist line is folded inward and sewn, leaving a small space so that an elastic band or ribbon can be inserted there, and the bottom of the legs is tucked, ironed and hemmed.

Lace, decorative braid, ribbons, etc. are used to decorate pantaloons.

And finally, more complex model clothes: a dress for a doll, consisting of a long sloping skirt and a blouse with sleeves. When cutting, the fabric is folded in half and the pattern is transferred, leaving a small distance for the seams. The details of the lining are cut out in the same way, if the dress is planned to be sewn on the lining material.

The pattern below contains the following details:

• 1 - half of the back;
• 2 - half of the front;
• 3 - the upper part of the sleeve;
• 4 - the lower part of the sleeve;
• 5-8 - skirt details.

The elements marked with a dotted line on the pattern (1, 5 and 8) are parts with a fold. Those. these parts of the dress are cut in such a way that the dotted line falls on the fold line of the fabric and as a result of cutting one whole piece would be obtained; all other elements (2, 3, 4, 6, 7) should be obtained in two pieces from a fabric folded in half.

The details of the front and back are sewn together along the shoulder seams, i.e. along the segments indicated by points 1 and 2, then along the side seams: from point 3 to point 4 of both parts. The collar and all edges of the blouse are treated with decorative braid, and in front, along the center line, several loops and beautiful buttons are sewn at an equal distance from each other.

The sleeve halves are sewn, focusing on the marks, i.e. the edge with marks 1, 2 of the lower part of the sleeve is sewn with points 1, 2 of the upper part; points 3.4 of one part - with points 3.4 of the second part. Having turned the finished sleeve on the front side, it is carefully sewn into the armhole of the blouse, focusing on marks 2 and 4 of the sleeve and the same marks on the details of the front and back of the blouse.
The lower part of the sleeve, located at the brushes, is treated with braid or decorative tape.

When sewing a skirt, the side between points 1 and 2 of part 8 is connected to the same points of part 7. In the same way, focusing on the number, it is necessary to sew the other edges of the skirt together. It should be noted that when connecting parts 5 and 6, the upper part of the edges is not sewn, and a fold is laid on parts 6, going from the point marked with a cross. On the finished skirt, the edge of the hem is folded and hemmed, then the blouse and skirt are sewn together and the finished dress is decorated with beads, ribbons, lace, and embroidery. To give the product a finished look, you can cut out a beautiful belt from fabric of the same or a contrasting color and mask the seam connecting both parts with it.

A simple men's cut shirt is a thing for all time. But it is simple only externally. Even an adult shirt is quite laborious to sew. And if we are talking about a doll measuring 25-30 centimeters ... This is an attraction for real masochists. Welcome!

The first step is to find the right fabric. Silk is ideal, because unlike other thin fabrics, silk, even very thin, can be quite dense. Using the random method, ordering in turn the entire assortment of the store for batik, I calculated the appropriate fabric - crepe satin. But the weight per meter is not like the link, but up to thirty grams. It just doesn't seem to be available right now.

Poplin is more or less suitable. Better mixed - silk and cotton. Dense cambric - better, too, cotton in half with silk. Crepe de chine and chiffon pour mercilessly. About other fabrics I will not say, I do not know.
So, we bought the fabric. Now it needs to be starched. Either in a starch solution or with a starch spray. I took the usual corn, diluted a little more than a teaspoon per liter - one and a half water. All by sight and at will. The more starch, the harder the fabric and in some sense it is easier to work with it. But up to a certain limit, of course. And do not forget that rinsing out starch is not so easy, and the more it is in the fabric, the more difficult it will be.
The starched fabric is evenly laid out and dried with an iron. The fabric becomes stiff, does not creep in different directions and frays less during the sewing process.

We cut the details. I do everything by eye. For those who love numbers... the width of the back at the shoulder is equal to the width of the shoulders. Straight across the entire width from the most protruding point of the right shoulder to the left. After part of the fabric goes to the seam, the desired value will just turn out.
Our back is two-part. The lower part is wider than the upper part with a margin for a crease. Upper part in duplicate. Sorry, I don't remember the correct name for this part. Free length. The armhole (sleeve cutout) is about half a centimeter deep (doll 25 cm) and one and a half or two in height. Do not forget to leave a hem allowance at the front parts - two strip widths on each side.

Now lay the fold on the back. Center. Like this.

Then we sweep the lower part with the upper ones, placing the lower one between the two upper ones like this

Attach, twist and iron

Now we prepare the front parts. We cut them out with a margin for hem. We fold the fabric in two folds and iron it. We draw, we draw. If you want a decorative strip, then we turn one part outward, the second inside out.

Now we cut the details on the shoulder. I process the neck, so it’s easier to work with it later, otherwise it frays very much despite all the precautions. I work by hand. It’s risky on a typewriter, the needle will go almost wrong and everything is ruined - the fabric, albeit dense, is still very thin, and when it’s half a centimeter to maneuver, it’s quite easy to ruin everything.

Collar queue
Ideally, the collar has a rather complex cut. But in our case, we will simplify the story by reducing it to a straight line.
To calculate its length, we lay out the neck on a plane in this way and measure the length.

We cut two narrow parts of the desired length plus seams. Lay at least four millimeters on the seams, otherwise, when turning it all out, it will crawl. You can lay it in width (the shortest side of the rectangle) with a margin - you can always reduce it.

We cut two parts along the edges like this corner. Then we cut the corners themselves, so after turning the corner will be neater.

It should look like this design. Along the way, we double-check the length to see if it matches the neckline.

Now we cut out the collar itself. To make the design easier and more elegant, we get rid of the top seam by cutting out the collar from the part bent in half

We cut the collar like this

You can use to turn parts cotton swab with a sharp tip (I have it above in the photo) and just such a little thing with a ball at the end. Well, or something else not sharp. Sharp immediately tears thin silk. Toothpicks are also not suitable for this reason.

Now we insert the collar into the bar. That's the way

We outline, test turn out. Yes, be sure to leave a large allowance at the bottom. If you grab the collar by the very edge, then it will crawl again later, checked. Therefore, place it in the bar deeper

We cut. We process the edge by hand. This is for strength. It certainly will not be visible inside. But the processing of the edge increases the practicality of the thing.

Now we twist, iron and make a hem along the entire perimeter of the bar. Better to pre-bait. It will take less time than shamanistic taktsy with manually folding a thin edge

We sew a collar on a live thread. Then we sew the collar on both sides with a hidden seam. On a typewriter, this size is also most likely not to be overcome.

Now it's the turn of the sleeves.
We cut the sleeve again in width, which is determined by unfolding the armhole in a straight line. If a little extra is cut off, we adjust, combining the upper line of the sleeve and the line of the armhole and trying on. Sleeve length optional. If you want the sleeve to be longer, so that there is an overlap above the cuff, then add a centimeter to the length of the arm to the wrist.

From the cuff we will have a cutout and we process this part in advance. Here, in a straight line, it's easy. Can also be done on a machine

I forgot to film the cutting and stitching of the cuff, but everything is simple there. When turned inside out and ironed, the cuff looks like this

Now we will put the sleeve in the cuff and sweep. Then, just like the collar, we sew on both sides with a hidden seam. With the thinnest thread, with the thinnest needle. Better than beaded.

Now we attach the sleeves to the armhole. I do it by hand. Because the shoulder width is small and the foot of the machine does not pass there. So we sew by hand and process by hand

But the side seam is quite possible to sew and process on the machine

Now cut out the bottom of the shirt of the desired length and shape. And carefully iron the hem.

It still won’t work out perfectly neat anyway, so we are already correlating with the ironed edge, trim the hem with nail scissors

And cutting out a thin strip of glue cobwebs, gently glue it in steam mode. Do not cut the cobweb with a margin in width, otherwise there will be an inaccurate strip along the gluing contour.

We try on the shirt and outline the places for the buttons. In principle, you can make magnets, but white fabric requires frequent washing, and as magnets are not glue, they will fall off sooner or later anyway. With aggressive washing rather early.

Therefore, our buttons are beads.

And we make loops in this way. I made a couple for example with a contrasting thread and in big size. Otherwise, do not take pictures. In general, everything is simple. Thread in one addition, synthetic is better, it is stronger. Loop, two knots on the sides (overlap) and then skip the thread inside to the next loop

Now the shirt should be thoroughly rinsed to wash the starch and shape it when wet.

Here's another way to imitate button buttons I liked. There is such a silver fittings for jewelry. It is shaped like a bead, only the hole is large.

If you knock on it with a hammer, you get such a small little thing. Sewn on with monofilament, it coolly imitates buttons on small things.

Here is a photo of the shirt (different) on the arm for scale. Mimimi)))

Takes a lot of time. Hours seven internally. Well, maybe twenty faster, but my track record is still less))

Hello dear guest and doll lover. Today I want to tell youhow to sew a nightshirt for doll. If your doll needs a beautiful shirt, sew the same one with your own hands.

In Rome, Byzantium, in Russia, a long time ago people wore tunics - clothes similar in shape to the letter T. It's very simple Casual clothes still worn by both men and women different peoples. Tunics are usually sewn straight and with sleeves to the sides at an angle of 90˚. Tunic can be with long or short arms, narrow or wide, detachable or whole cut. Are tunics worn in our country? Yes, we carry with you. Simple in cut, the nightgown is the closest relative of the ancient tunic. She also has other relatives in our time - these are dresses and blouses with a lowered armhole.

We will find out today how to sew nightgown for doll in the form of a tunic. She will be beautiful thanks to the fabric and lace.

Suitable for a shirt, which you can build a doll of any height. (another relative of the tunic). In the section "Patterns" you will find the construction of patterns for various doll clothes.

I made a remake finished pattern Baby Born. It is only necessary to lengthen the pattern to the desired length of the shirt, and expand it by 1-1.5 cm below. Velcro is sewn onto this hem on doll clothes.

According to this pattern, we sewed nightgowns at school in the 7th grade. Children's nightgowns were, of course, without fasteners at the back. We made a large neckline so that you can easily put on a shirt. At the same time, cutting and tailoring were greatly simplified: the shirt consisted of one piece, there was no shoulder seam. The most difficult thing in this work was to cut and sew a hem on the neck.

The shirt is sewn from sewing, decorated with lace, with shoulder seams, fastener at the back with adhesive tape.

It is sewn from three parts: 1 front part and two back parts,

HOW TO SEW A NIGHT GOWN FOR A DOLL

Cutting and sewing shirts are exactly the same as for a blouse sewn on the basis of a vest. The processing allowances for the bottom of the sleeve and the bottom of the shirt on the pattern are given 1.5 cm, if the shirt is hemmed with a regular sewing seam: it is folded once by 0.5 cm, and the second time by 1 cm and sewn on the machine.

If lace is sewn along the bottom of the sleeve and the shirt itself, then allowances can be omitted. Top on front side lace is applied, basted, and then stitched on top with a zig-zag seam on a sewing machine.

The nightgown is ready, we put it on the doll and put it to bed with your favorite toy.

On the same pattern, you can sew dresses and blouses. Approximately these dresses we sewed with high school students at labor lessons. (scanned a picture from the textbook we worked on). All dresses are straight, non-cut along the waist line, with short one-piece sleeves. Only the trim changes: frills on the bottom of the dress, belt, strap or elastic waistline, various necklines, colored piping, lace, drapery, stitching. All this makes the dresses different from each other. The fabric can significantly change the dress. A solid, dense fabric is well suited for a dress with stitching, a colorful fabric is suitable for summer dress with frill, soft fabric needed for a dress with drapery on the shoulders.

1. First, I make a pattern according to the size of my hare (height - 38 cm).

2. I cut out the details of the pattern.

3. I transfer the pattern to the fabric.

4. We cut out the details of the pattern from the fabric, not forgetting the seam allowances. In my case, I left 2mm, since the fabric does not fray, but it is better to leave allowances from 5 mm along the edges of each part, and from 10-15 mm along the bottom of the product. You can first overcast the details around the edges, especially if you use linen.

5. Sew the shoulder seams. Can be sewn by hand or machine. The main thing is to make sure that when sewing, the front of the fabric is connected to the front, and the wrong side to the wrong side. Difficulty can arise when sewing a plain fabric. In this case, for convenience, you can mark the wrong side of the parts.

6. I smooth the seams and unfold the shirt so that it is convenient to sew on the sleeves

7. I sew the sleeves into the armholes.

8. I sew side seams and sleeves.

9. I sew the details of the collar and cuffs.

10. I try on a shirt for my hare and see if all the sizes match, or if something needs to be corrected. I sew on the collar and fold the cuffs with an overlap, fasten.

11. I sew cuffs, smooth out the seams.

12. The collar can be sewn like this in a simple way like mine, or you can use a facing to process the neckline, which is sewn over the collar, then folded over, fixed. Everyone chooses ways of sewing for himself. Sometimes it depends on the tasks set for yourself in the sewing process.

13. The shirt is almost ready, it remains only to sew on the buttons.

14. I sew buttons on the cuffs and on the front of the shirt.