This article can be titled like this: "Clothes of the Russian village." For many centuries, the vast majority of the population of Russia were peasants. They led a subsistence economy, providing themselves with everything necessary, including clothing. By his very fate, inseparable from the life of the earth, the plowman was part of his native nature, and his costume to the greatest extent corresponded to the peculiarities of the Russian climate.

Festive girl's costume from the Vologda province.
The famous Russian artist I. Bilibin depicted a girl from a northern village. Her attire - a sarafan klinnik and a warming feather are sewn from a purchased damask with a rich pattern. Such fabric was brought from the countries of the East. But the headdress is a crown - Russian gold-embroidered work.

Festive women's costume from the Vologda province.
Again I. Bilibin, and again a Vologda peasant woman. Only this time, a young woman - that was the name of a woman at an early time of marriage, more often before the appearance of her first child. Her richly decorated costume symbolized this flourishing age, as if calling on the future mother the grace of heaven and earth. The sundress and the shower jacket are made of patterned damask, the latter being trimmed with stripes of gold embroidery. The high gold-embroidered kokoshnik is adorned with stones. Tied over it is a silk shawl that has turned into a cape.

Another thing is also important. The peasant only absented himself from his village in extreme need; alien guests were also rare. Therefore, in his clothes, which escaped external influences, the world outlook, customs, character, taste were clearly expressed - the inner essence of a native Russian person. That is why, for many centuries, the peasantry was primarily the guardian of national traditions in costume. Especially after the famous decree of Peter, who obliged everyone, except for the peasants and the clergy, to wear a European-style dress. The townspeople were forced to switch to "German" clothes, and only the villagers continued to wear folk costume.

"Pendants" - an element of the head
girl's dress. Tomsk province.
Late 19th - early 20th century.

What was he like? Finding yourself a hundred years ago at a major fair somewhere in Makariev or Irbit, you would be amazed at the variety of outfits, especially for women: you can’t find two identical ones! Indeed, over the centuries, almost every village in vast Russia has developed its own traditions - so that by the color or pattern of clothes it was possible to find out where the hostess came from. The costumes of the northern and southern provinces differed most of all, Siberian women dressed in a peculiar way. Let's talk about these ensembles.

The traditional women's outfit of the Russian North is often called the "word of mouth complex", since its main parts are a shirt and a sundress. Our ancestors have worn the shirt since time immemorial - this is confirmed by many beliefs associated with it. For example, they did not sell their own shirt: it was believed that at the same time you would sell your happiness. Isn't that why the people were so valued by people who are ready to give the last shirt to the needy? It was the main, and sometimes the only clothing: as usual, village boys and girls in the 19th century, in some places, until the very wedding, went in the same shirts, intercepted by a belt.

Festive women's shirt. Olonets province. Beginning of the 19th century.
Decorating the shirt with generous embroidery, the craftswoman used paper, silk and gold threads.
The pattern on the hem is especially interesting: the Tree of Life with birds on the sides.

In the old days, a shirt was sewn from linen or hemp canvas, skipping a single piece of cloth from the collar to the hem. Hence the name - sinker, which existed in the Vologda province. But already in the last century, such clothes are found only as wedding and funeral, at the same time they wear a two-piece shirt. The upper one was called sleeves in the North and was sewn from thinner, even purchased matter, the lower one - camp - from ordinary homespun fabric.

In the Russian village, not all clothes were decorated, but only festive and ritual ones. The richest, annual, was worn three or four times a year, on the most solemn days. She was very cherished, tried not to wash and passed on by inheritance.
Preparing an elegant shirt, village needlewomen showed everything they were capable of. Sleeves, shoulders and collar, not covered with a sundress, were embroidered with red threads. Often decorated with a hem. In special shirts, which were worn with a belt for mowing or harvesting, it was almost completely covered with an embroidered or woven pattern. They went with songs - after all, for the peasants, harvesting is not only hard work, but also a great holiday. In the Olonets province, there was an elegant weeping shirt, or makhavka, with very long and narrow sleeves. The bride put it on on her wedding day and, saying goodbye to her parents, waved the ends of the sleeves around her head and across the floor, lamenting her lost girlhood and her future life in a strange family...

Skirt "skid". Olonets province. Beginning of XX century.
This skirt is amazingly beautiful, almost completely covered with a woven pattern. Looking closer at it, you can see how deer with branched horns walk measuredly around the solar rhombuses. The plot was not chosen by chance. Such a skirt was separated from the shirt of the mower, the hem of which was generously decorated with weaving. On the first pasture of cattle, young women put on two or even three skirts, showing the sun and girlfriends their wealth.

Interestingly, the word "sarafan" is first found in Russia in the documents of the XIV century in relation to men's clothing. The most ancient type of women's sundress is shushpan with a solid front panel. But already in the last century, elderly peasant women wore it, and young people mastered a swing sundress fastened with openwork metal buttons. Due to the large number of wedges that greatly expand it in the hem, it was called the wedge. However, there were also other names - according to the fabric: kumashnik, naboeshnik, damask - after all, the wedge-makers sewed not only from homespun fabric dyed blue or red, but also from purchased materials. The kumach was extremely popular, which was used for festive clothes. For the most elegant, they took silk fabrics - satin and damask, and in the most prosperous families - brocade. In the second half of the 19th century, the oblique-wedge sarafan was replaced by a straight sundress of five or six panels with narrow straps: lyamoshnik, round, inflate, Muscovite, fur coat.

I remember that not so long ago they were fashionable wide dresses without a belt, supposedly designed in the “Russian style”. But is it? Indeed, in Russia they never walked with a belt, and the first “clothes” that a newborn received was precisely the belt: it was believed that it protects from troubles. A variety of belts are known: woven, knitted, wicker. Wide - for outerwear and narrower - for the maid, festive and everyday. Patterned belts with lush terry at the ends were woven from garus wool. Many were "with words" - a skillfully woven line of prayer or dedication. And it’s just: “Whom I love, I give”, and the names ...

Finally, a headdress, without which the costume of a Russian peasant woman is simply unthinkable. Indeed, according to ancient custom, a married woman did not appear in public with a simple hair - this was considered a great sin. Girls could not cover their hair. Hence the difference in dress: a married woman has a deaf cap, a girl has a dressing that leaves the top of her head uncovered.

The festive kokoshniks of northerners are magnificent, embroidered with gold thread and river pearls (until the 18th century, Russia was very rich in them). In their shape they looked like a fluffy chicken, but in some places they had other outlines. For example, Nizhny Novgorod - with a high crest in the form of a crescent or pointed Kostroma. The elegant maiden's coruna really resembled an old royal crown with bizarre teeth, which was echoed by a brocade braid, also trimmed with pearls and embroidery. On weekdays, girls wore a ribbon or scarf.

What else complemented the main costume? With a rich sundress, they put on a brocade shower warmer for warmth, gathered on the back with beautiful folds. With sleeves - it was called an epanechka, on the straps - a short one. An embroidered apron could also have sleeves, but more often it was worn around the neck or tied over the chest. Well, on a holiday - a beautiful scarf or shawl, say, a Kargopol gold scarf with patterns. Such is the outfit of the peasant women of the Russian North.

The costume of the southern provinces was noticeably different from it. And in terms of composition, this is the so-called “pony complex”. And according to the materials - the local peasants lived poorer and did not buy expensive fabrics. And in style - the South Russian costume is brighter and more colorful, which is the reason for the different climate and the proximity of the steppe peoples.

It is based on an ancient belt poneva. Imagine three sewn panels with a cord threaded through the top - a damper. They are wrapped around the hips and fastened at the waist, and the floors do not converge and the shirt is visible in the gap. This is an old swing poneva. The deaf one appeared later, when they began to close the hole with a cloth of another matter - prdshva.

They usually made poneva from woolen homespun, blue or black, in a large cage. This ornament was supplemented with an embroidered or woven pattern; the young women also sewed on ribbons, tassels, buttons, sequins. The local attire is generally characterized by increased patterning. For example, on the shoulders of a shirt, already saturated with embroidery and weaving, red rectangles were often sewn - raids. The shirt itself is sutselny and very long. It was pulled up to the knees, and a large lap was formed at the belt, which was used as a pocket. Because of this bag, Ryazanka in the old days was often teased as "skant-bellied".

The complete ensemble also included a pommel of an ancient tunic-like cut and an apron covering a tear or seam. You will see all this in the illustrations. But about the headdress of a married woman - kichka should be said especially. This is a whole structure, sometimes consisting of ten parts, and weighing up to seven kilograms. In some places it was called "magpie" - according to the upper part, resembling a bird with wings when unfolded. In front of her, horns often towered. Apparently they are

Zans with some very ancient ideas, for the clay female figurines excavated in Kyiv also have two-horned headdresses. On top of the kichka, they put on a forehead, nape, magpie, headphones embroidered with gold or beads ... Oddly enough, Russian women did not want to part with all this for a long time. I. S. Turgenev tells how one landowner ordered the serfs to replace the “heavy and ugly” kits with a kokoshnik, but the peasants wore it ... over the kits. The fervent ditty is also known: “I will never throw Ryazan horns: I will eat one chaff, but I will not throw my horns! ..”

A kind of Siberian costume. Russian people moved to Siberia from various places in European Russia. Over time, their usual outfits changed in new environmental conditions. Moreover, the settlers borrowed a lot from local peoples, especially warm clothes and shoes. So, in the lower reaches of the Ob, men and women wore a Nenets malitsa made of reindeer fur with wool inside, with a hood and mittens. They also mastered new fabrics, because flax and hemp did not grow everywhere. For example, in Transbaikalia, everyday sundresses were sewn from blue cotton daba, which was brought from China, while oriental silks were widely used for festive ones. However, in general, the traditional costume was preserved in Siberia and even acquired unique features, especially where the settlers lived in large villages, sacredly keeping the customs of their fatherly antiquity.

The composition of men's clothing was the same everywhere. But about the patchwork, from which shirts and ports were sewn along with the canvas, it is worth telling. This is a checkered or striped fabric made from dyed yarn. The colors and patterns are sometimes delightful - it’s not for nothing that the village dandies wore sundresses of motley. The cage went to the shirts, and the stripe to the pants, which were called so - blue-striped.

Finally, shoes. We got used to the idea that in the village everyone wore bast shoes. But they were worn mainly in the Central Black Earth provinces, where serfdom had a stronger effect. Here they even got married and buried in bast shoes. But the steppes, Pomors, Siberians did not know them at all. In the North, bast shoes were woven for work, because they are indispensable for mowing or reaping: they are comfortable, light and you can’t prick your leg. On holidays, they wore leather shoes - boots, half boots, shoes. And also cats with a red trim - something like shoes more spacious, so that the leg in a woolen stocking enters. Both men and women wore knee-length knitted stockings with a patterned description, but with bast shoes - usually white linen or cloth onuchi. It seems to be the most uncomplicated detail of the costume, but how much fiction is there! The upholstery used to tie shoes to the foot was often woven from black wool - imagine how beautifully they crossed over the festive onuch!

Festive men's shirt. Semipalatinsk province. Late 19th - early 20th century.
It was very colorful men's clothing the so-called "Bukhtar-Minsk Old Believers" who lived in the Southern Altai. In terms of the richness of the decorations, the shirt you see is not much inferior to the women's one: kumach gores and stripes, embroidery and hemstitching. Preparing a gift for the groom, the bride with special diligence embroidered the top of her chest, where, according to ancient beliefs, the soul lived. The pattern in the form of a lattice located there was called a window and decorated with beads.

Beauty and usefulness have never diverged from meaning in folk art. Let's remember the patterns on shirts, ponevs, aprons: Women with raised hands, the unfading Tree of Life, solar rhombuses with crosses in the middle... Scientists have proved that they all express the idea of ​​mother earth's fertility, which is so close to the farmer's soul. And the upper part of the costume was connected with the idea of ​​the sky. Take, for example, the names of women's headdresses, reminiscent of birds: magpie, chicken (in the old kokoshi), swan (“white swan kitchet”). Thus, dressed in her festive multi-layered outfit, the Russian peasant woman was an image of the whole universe, as people imagined it then. She looked majestic, representative; performed solemnly.

Festive men's ports. Semipalatinsk province. Late 19th - early 20th century.
Having moved to the slopes of Altai in the 18th century, the "Bukhtarma" people were forced to adapt to other living conditions. And over time, new features appeared in their costume. For example, embroideries on men's pants, which are extremely rare in European Russia. Moreover, the ornament often combined Russian and Kazakh motifs. In our example, the traditional Tree of Life will face quite realistic horses, which played such an important role in the lives of the settlers.

It is always very important what stands behind a person. The Russian peasant lived in poverty and was often illiterate. But behind him was his native nature, from which he did not separate himself, a great people with its historical and spiritual experience, the most ancient of cultures - agriculture. The peasant served them, he was their representative. This was expressed with such force in his suit.

Men's and women's suits for winter trips. Central provinces of Russia.
The woman is wearing a sheepskin coat, the peasant is wearing a cloth zipun. The artist modernized it somewhat: the Russians fastened their clothes only on the left side. Fur coats and sheepskin coats were made with a very deep smell, so that the mother could even wrap up the child. On the head of a man is a handy felted hat, a woman has a factory-made shawl over a kokoshnik. Bast shoes with warm onuchs or wire rod, patterned knitted mittens. Whip in hand - and go!

Apron with agricultural calendars - "months". Olonets province. End of the 19th century.
The intricate patterns embroidered on the Kargopol apron are nothing but ancient agricultural calendars. The six petals and six sprouts inside the circle represent the 12 months, while the symbols on the outside represent the most important milestones of the annual circle of field work. For example, May 2 - "Boris-Gleb - I sow bread", May 31 - "Fedot will come - the earth will be taken for its kind." Similar calendars were embroidered on the hem of shirts and on towels. You can understand how they valued these things, carefully passing them by inheritance.

A. LEBEDEVA,
Candidate of Historical Sciences
Drawings by N. Vinogradova, G. Voronova

Russian folk costume and its traditions are increasingly becoming a source of inspiration for contemporary designers. Fashion is constantly undergoing dramatic changes, turning to the past in search of new and fresh solutions. Shirts, skirts, dresses, sundresses are endowed with the features of national outfits that came from the mysterious times of Ancient Russia. What did the women, men and children who lived in those centuries shrouded in mysteries wear?

Unique Traits

The history of Russian folk costume has been going on for many centuries. Natural conditions, severe field work from dark to dark, religious rites - all these factors influenced the appearance of national outfits. Peasant clothing was characterized by maximum functionality. Shirts, ports, sundresses provided room for movement, did not cause inconvenience, and effectively saved from the cold. Work suits were devoid of buttons, people girded themselves with sashes and used wide sinuses as spacious pockets.

Constructiveness, practicality and simplicity did not at all force the inhabitants of Ancient Russia to abandon bright colors in their clothes. Ribbons, lace, appliques in the form of squares and rhombuses, embroidery with colored threads were used as decor. Russian folk costume often involved combining fabrics that differ in color. The patterns on the elements of the outfit adjacent to the body took on the function of a talisman that protected from evil spirits. Sleeves, skirts, collars were decorated with an ornament.

Men's clothing in different regions did not differ much, it was characterized by monotony, while at the sight of a women's suit it was easy to guess in which part of the country its owner lives.

Colors and paints

Dyeing of fabrics in Ancient Russia was carried out using natural dyes. This is precisely the reason for the mysterious popularity of red. Madder in those days grew in almost all gardens, it was this weed that provided the peasants with paint. Therefore, the Russian folk costume evokes associations with red, and not with green. The green silks supplied by the East almost did not penetrate into peasant life, and there were no natural dyes of such color.

In addition to red, white and blue colors were popular, which folk rumor, like red, endowed with protective properties.

Shirts for women

Russian folk costume (female version) cannot be imagined without a shirt. It was worn by representatives of all classes without exception. The product was called a camp, its length was up to the hem of a sundress. In the course were models of original styles with gathered sleeves. They were popular with nursing mothers. Special outfits were created for funerals and weddings, shirts were divided into festive and everyday ones.

The main materials from which this element of women's clothing was created were wool, linen, and hemp. Of particular interest are decorative ornaments that have a special meaning. The drawings most often depicted birds and horses, the tree of life and plant drawings that paid tribute to the pagan gods. Red shirts traditionally acted as a talisman. It was believed that they avert troubles, drive away demons.

Shirts for men

Men's blouses did not differ in particular variety. They were a structure assembled from two panels that covered the chest and back. As a connecting element, quadrangular fabric cuts were used, located on the shoulders. The cut of the shirt remained unchanged, no matter what class its owner belonged to. It was possible to determine the financial situation only by the qualitative characteristics of the fabric. Satin and silk are for the rich, linen is for the poor.

Shirts were worn loose, they were never tucked into trousers. Such things could be made in various colors. Woolen and silk products served as a belt (sometimes there were tassels at the ends).

Shirts for children

The first Russian folk costume for a boy is a father's kosovorotka, a baby that was born was wrapped in it. For newborn girls, a mother's shirt served as such a diaper. When creating children's outfits, cuts of worn things of the mother or father were often used. This was done not out of economy, but for the sake of the belief that the parental force saves the baby from the evil eye.

It is impossible to see the difference in the appearance of shirts intended for children of different sexes - these are absolutely identical kosovorotki, reaching to the very floor. An obligatory decorative element is embroidery applied by the mother's hand. Drawings have always taken on the functions of protective amulets.

The achievement of the age of three for kids was marked by the receipt of a shirt from novelty. Twelve-year-old boys relied on trousers-ports in addition, girls were dressed up in ponevs. In general, the Russian folk costume for children was not much different from the clothes of adults.

Sundresses

When our contemporaries portray Russian folk costume, a women's sundress is most common. Peasant women began to wear this outfit from the 14th century, its final approval in the wardrobe took place only in the 17th century. The appearance of clothing depended on the region of residence, fabrics, colors and cuts differed. The most popular option is a wide fabric panel, gathered with graceful folds, straps, a narrow corsage. A sundress was worn on a naked body or over a shirt.

There were festive and everyday options. The first ones were put on for wedding feasts, church holidays were held in them, and people attended festivities. The dowry of the bride must necessarily include at least ten sundresses made in various colors. The quality of the fabric depended on belonging to a particular class. Silk and velvet are an option for the rich. Such an outfit, generously decorated with lace, braid and embroidery, spoke of the high social status of its owner.

Russian folk costume - a women's sundress - was also interesting for its weight. The holiday versions were incredibly heavy, and the everyday versions weren't far behind. The most common household outfit was called "sayan", it looked like a satin product, assembled on the sides and back. Color solutions depended on age. Older ladies preferred black and blue models, young girls preferred burgundy and red tones.

The peasant woman's sundress told literally everything about her. Does she have a husband and children, what mood is she in (there were even special outfits “for the sadness”).

Kartuzy

Russian folk costume (male version) is hard to imagine without a perky cap. This headdress, which has a visor, reigned in the national wardrobe in the 19th century. Summer versions were made of velvet, plush, cloth. The visors were covered with fabric or leather, made in an inclined, semicircular, straight form. Options for the holiday were decorated with beads and ribbons, flowers (live and artificial).

This headdress won the greatest popularity among retired officials, managers, rural landowners.

Ports

Men's ports were made from pieces of homespun cloth or canvas, a rhombic piece - a fly - served as a connecting piece. Such pants were gathered on the damper at the waist. Russian folk costume for a boy included ports from the age of 12. Color solutions differed in variety, products were made from motley, homemade dyeing, homespun. Higher-quality fabrics were used to create "weekend" options, or vertical patterns were used to decorate homespun cloth.

A little later, pants without a fly, endowed with wider legs, a belt and buttons, became an element of the festive wardrobe. Pockets were also often present. The advent of pants gave ports the function of underwear.

Ponevy

Poneva can be called the great-great-grandmother of the modern skirt. This element of the wardrobe is older than the sundress that appeared later, it was traditionally worn over a shirt, complemented by an apron. The ancient "skirt" was present in the wardrobe of adult women. Russian folk costume for a girl included her only when she reached puberty. Most often, poneva was made of wool and consisted of several sewn pieces of fabric.

Colors and styles depended on the region of residence. There were deaf models, open on the side or in front, hinged, with a seam. Gradually, they were almost completely replaced by sundresses.

Kokoshniki

From the Old Slavonic language "kokosh" is translated as "rooster and hen". Kokoshniks were made on a solid base and could take a variety of forms. Their decorations were very interesting - beads, pearls, beads, brocade. Wealthy ladies wore kokoshniks with precious stones. Kokoshniks cannot be seen when studying a Russian folk costume for a girl, because they were considered the exclusive prerogative of married women. The unmarried wore the great-great-grandmother of today's bandana - the magpie.

The crest of the kokoshnik indicated that the woman belonged to a certain province. In the Siberian region, crescents became widespread. In Kostroma, Pskov, Vladimir - arrowheads. Kokoshniks were regarded as family heirlooms and passed by inheritance to the daughter from the mother, they were necessarily included in the dowry. They were not considered as an element of everyday wardrobe. These hats were intended for the holidays, even the brides wore them at the wedding.

Kokoshniks are also known as a national amulet. They were decorated with symbols of fidelity, fertility.

Shoes

Russian folk costume - for children and adults - includes bast shoes, known as the most common footwear. Bast shoes were festive and everyday, worn at any time of the year with white cloth shoes and linens. The role of fastening was played by ropes wrapping the lower leg crosswise over the onuch. Leather boots and felt boots were available to wealthy peasants.

The dream of young people and the rich was lacquered boots with hard tops in the shape of bottles. Soft tops, collected in an accordion, came already in the 20th century. Women's and men's footwear didn't make much of a difference.

Modern look

Interest in the history of national costumes and the predominance of ethnic motifs are clearly seen in modern fashion. Do-it-yourself Russian folk costume is created for carnivals, performances. His features are often found in everyday outfits, not only in Russia, but also in other countries.

A striking example of attention to clothing "from the past" is the revived popularity of felt boots. Of course, these products bear little resemblance to their predecessors. Their decorations are leather inserts, bright beads, colorful embroidery. These shoes are also worn abroad. Her popularity is not limited to the Russian Federation. Boots and shoes decorated with floral embroidery, sandals with a wicker platform won special love.

Bright fabrics, made in the style of a Russian shawl, are also held in high esteem by famous fashion designers who are trying to reproduce the Russian folk costume. Flowers act as the main patterns, a large element is located in the center, small details are concentrated at the edges. The level of interest in national lace is high. With its help, fashionable outfits acquire a slight exoticism, mystery, romance.

World fashion owes Russian culture the popularity of embroidery with colored threads, the demand for decorative cord, ribbons and beads. Especially widely known are national applications that are used in women's, men's and children's clothing. In winter and autumn, traditional boyar hats, town scarves, vests with fur trim, sheepskin coats in national motifs are constantly found on the streets.

"Russian" weddings

Weddings in Russian style are in great demand in recent years. Brides dress in white sarafans, painted with national ornaments, put on red kokoshniks. The outfits are complemented by hairstyles based on a classic braid, into which flowers and ribbons are woven. There is no doubt: wearing a Russian folk costume, you will get excellent photos.

For many centuries, Russian national clothes have kept the cultural values ​​of our people. The costume conveys the traditions and customs of the ancestors. Spacious cut, uncomplicated style, but beautifully and lovingly decorated details of clothing convey the breadth of the soul and flavor of the Russian land. No wonder now the revival of Russian origins can be traced in modern fashion collections.

The clothes of the ancient Slavs were the national attire of the population of Russia until the reign of Peter I. The style, decorations, and image of the costume were formed under the influence of:

• The main activity of the population (plowing, cattle breeding);
• natural conditions;
• Geographic location;
• Relations with Byzantium and Western Europe.

The clothes of the Slavs were sewn from natural fibers (cotton, wool, linen), had a simple cut and a length to the heels. The clothes of the nobility were of bright colors (green, crimson, scarlet, azure), and the decorations were the most luxurious:

• Silk sewing;
• Russian embroidery with gold and silver thread;
• Finishing with stones, beads, pearls;
• Fur decoration.

The image of the clothes of Ancient Russia began to be laid in antiquity, in the 14th century. It was worn by the king, boyars, peasants until the 17th century.

Period 15th-17th century. The Russian national costume retains its originality and acquires a more intricate cut. Under the influence of Polish culture, swing and fitted clothing among the Eastern Slavs. Velvet, silk fabrics are used. The noble princely and boyar estates had more expensive, multi-layered outfits.

End of 17th century. Peter I issues decrees prohibiting the wearing of national costumes of the nobility. These decrees did not concern only priests and peasants. The decree forbade the sewing and selling of Russian costume, for which fines and even seizure of property were provided. The Russian monarch issued them in order to adopt European culture and strengthen relations with Europe. This measure of instilling someone else's taste had a negative impact on national development.

Second half of the 18th century. Catherine II tried to return Russian originality to the European-style costumes of the nobility. This was manifested in the fabrics and splendor of the design of the outfits.

Patriotic war of the 19th century. The patriotic spirit of the population is rising, which has returned interest in the national clothes of the Russian people. Noble young ladies began to wear sundresses, kokoshniks. Dresses were sewn from brocade, kisei.

20th century. Due to strained relations with suppliers from Europe, there was a return to the clothing style of Ancient Russia. It showed up in fashion trends with elements of Russian style.

Kinds

Ancient Russian national clothing was the most diverse and was divided into festive and everyday attire. It also differed depending on the region, social class of the wearer, age, marital status and occupation. But some features of the costume distinguished him from the clothes of other nationalities.

Features of Russian national clothes:

1. Layering, especially among the nobility and women;
2. Loose fit. For convenience, they were supplemented with fabric inserts;
3. A belt was tied to decorate and hold clothes. The ornament embroidered on it was a talisman;
4. Clothes made in Russia were all decorated with embroidery and carried sacred meaning, protecting from the evil eye;
5. According to the pattern, one could learn about the owner's age, gender, nobility;
6. Festive outfits were sewn from bright fabrics and richly decorated with trim;
7. There was always a headdress on the head, sometimes in several layers (for married women);
8. Each Slav had a set of ceremonial clothes, which were richer and brighter decorated. It was worn several times a year and tried not to wash.

The decoration of Russian clothing contains information about the clan, family, customs, occupations. The more expensive the fabrics and decoration of the costume, the more noble and richer the owner was considered.

Noble

The outfits of the princely and boyar estates until the end of the 17th century retained the Russian style in their clothes. Traditionally, it was distinguished by luxury and layering. Even the growth of territories and turbulent international relations did not change the national identity of old Russian clothes. Yes, and the boyars and nobles themselves stubbornly did not accept European fashion trends.

During the period of the 16th and early 17th centuries, the costume of the nobility became more diverse, which cannot be said about peasant clothing, which has not changed for many centuries. The more layers were in the outfit, the richer and more noble the owner was considered. The weight of the dress sometimes reached 15 kg or more. Even the heat did not cancel this rule. They wore long, wide clothes, sometimes open with a slit in front. The dresses were beautiful, emphasizing the waist. Ancient Russian women's clothing reached a mass of 15-20 kg, from which women moved smoothly, majestically. It was this gait that was the female ideal.

Old Russian clothes of princes, boyars were sewn from expensive fabrics brought from Italy, England, Holland, Turkey, Iran, Byzantium. Rich materials - velvet, satin, taffeta, brocade, calico, satin - were of bright colors. They were decorated with sewing, embroidery, precious stones, pearls.

Peasant

Clothing of ancient Russia is one of the ancient types of folk art. Through the arts and crafts, the craftswomen passed on the traditions and origins of Russian culture. The clothes of Russian peasants, although simple, created a harmonious image, complemented by jewelry, shoes, and a headdress.

The main materials for tailoring were homespun canvas or woolen fabrics. plain weaving. From the middle of the 19th century, factory-made fabrics with bright color patterns appeared (silk, satin, calico, satin, chintz).

Peasant clothes were highly valued, they were cherished, altered and worn out almost to a dilapidated state. Festive clothes were kept in chests and passed from parents to children. Rarely worn, 3-4 times a year, they tried not to wash it.

After long working days in the field or with cattle, the long-awaited holiday came. On this day, the peasants put on their best clothes. Beautifully decorated, he could tell about the owner of his marital status, the area where he came from. The embroidery depicted the sun, stars, birds, animals, people. The ornament not only decorated, but also protected from evil spirits. Russian patterns on clothes were embroidered on the edges of the product: the neck or collar, cuffs, hem.

All costumes differed from each other in color, style and decoration. And they conveyed the natural features of their native land.

Military

The Russian professional army did not always have uniform uniforms. In ancient Russia, warriors did not have a single uniform. Protective equipment was selected depending on financial capabilities and methods of combat. Therefore, even in small squads, the clothes and armor of Russian heroes were different.

In ancient times, under protective ammunition, men wore a cotton or linen shirt, belted at the waist. On the legs are canvas harem pants (ports), which were gathered not only at the waist, but also at the ankle and under the knees. They wore boots made from a single piece of leather. Later, nagovitsa appeared - iron stockings to protect the legs in battle, and for the hands - bracers (metal gloves).

Until the 17th century, the main armor was chain mail made of metal rings. She looked like a long-sleeved shirt with short sleeves. Her weight was 6-12 kg. After that, other types of wearable protection appeared:

• Baidan (rings are larger, thinner) weighing up to 6 kg;
• "Plate armor" - metal plates 3 mm thick were attached to a leather or cloth base;
• "Scaly armor" - also attached to the base, but resembled fish scales.

The armor of the combatants was supplemented on the head with a metal helmet with a spire. It could be supplemented with a half mask and aventail (mail mesh that protected the neck and shoulders). Tegilyai (quilted armor) appeared in Russia in the 16th century. This is an elongated quilted caftan with a thick layer of cotton wool or hemp. He had short sleeves, a stand-up collar, and metal plates were sewn onto his chest. It was more often worn by poor warriors. Such protective armor of Russian soldiers existed until the 17th century.

Details and their meaning in clothing

On the vast Russian territory, national clothes varied, sometimes even significantly. This can be seen in photographs and in museums. The image in the paintings of people in Russian outfits conveys all the versatility and originality of ancient Russia. Skillfully made jewelry by craftswomen amazes with the complexity of the work.

Each region was famous for its decorative arts. If the nobility tried to have rich and original, no one repeats clothes, then the peasants decorated with embroidery of natural motifs, invested their love for mother earth.

Male

The basis of ancient Russian men's clothing was a shirt and trousers. All men wore them. Among the nobility, they beat from expensive material with rich embroidery. The peasants were made of homespun material.

Until the 17th century, the pants were wide, later they became narrower, tied with a lace at the waist and ankles. Pants tucked into shoes. The nobility wore 2 pairs of trousers. The upper ones were often sewn from silk or cloth. AT winter time they were furry.

Shirt

Another obligatory clothing of ancient Russia for men was a shirt. For rich people, this was the bottom piece of clothing, and the peasants put it on when going out into the street without outerwear (caftan, zipun). The shirt had a slit at the neck in front or on the side, more often on the left (kosovorotka). The decoration on the neck, cuffs was usually made of expensive fabric, embroidered or decorated with braid. Bright drawings on the braid were in the form of floral patterns. The shirt was tied with a silk or woolen lace, sometimes with tassels, and worn at the outlet. Young people are on the belt, older people are lower, making a lap over the waist. He played the role of a pocket. They sewed shirts from linen, silk, satin fabric.

Zipun

A zipun was worn over the shirt. It was knee-length, with a belt, and buttoned back-to-back. The narrow sleeves were buttoned at the cuffs. A beautifully decorated collar was attached to the neck. The zipun was more commonly worn at home, but young people were sometimes worn outside.

caftan

The nobles put on a caftan when going out into the street. There were many styles, the total length was below the knees.

• More often the caftan was long, not fitted with long sleeves. It was fastened end to end with 6-8 buttons. This ancient Russian clothing was decorated stand-up collar, decorated with embroidery and stones;
• They also wore a homemade caftan with a smell on buttons, metal or wooden. In rich houses, gold buttons were used. Long sleeves rolled up, but options up to the elbow were more convenient;
• Another style of caftan - chucha was worn for riding. It had side slits and cropped sleeves for comfort;
• Polish culture in the 17th century influenced the appearance of a caftan that was tight-fitting and flared below the waist. The long sleeves are voluminous at the shoulder and narrowed strongly below the elbow.

The nobleman also had formal clothes, their names were a cloak or feryaz, which was worn over a caftan. The length of the outfits reached the calves or the floor, he himself was sheathed in fur or decorated fur collar. The wide feryaz was fastened with one button. Dark green, dark blue cloth or golden brocade was used for tailoring the dress.

Fur coat

If the caftan and feryaz were inaccessible to the peasants, then almost all segments of the population had a fur coat. Fur coats were sewn with fur inside, expensive and not very expensive. Volumetric with large sleeves reached the ground or were below the knees. Peasants wore hare and sheep coats. And rich, noble people sewed them from the skin of sable, marten, fox, arctic fox.

Headdress

An obligatory attribute of Russian clothing was a fur hat resembling a high cap. Among the nobility, it was decorated with gold thread embroidery. At home, the boyars, the nobles wore a tafya, similar to a skullcap. Going out into the street, they put on a murmolka and a cap made of expensive fabric with a fur trim over the tafya.

Shoes

The most common footwear among peasants is bast shoes. Not everyone had leather boots, so they were very much appreciated. Instead of boots, the peasants wrapped their legs tightly with cloth and sewed leather onto the feet. The boyars, princes, nobles in ancient Russia had the most common shoes - boots. The toes are usually turned up. Shoes were sewn from colored brocade, morocco and decorated with multi-colored stones.

Women's clothing

The main ancient Russian women's clothing was a shirt, sundress, poneva. The formation of the folk costume of the southern regions of ancient Russia was influenced by Ukrainian and Belarusian culture. The women's attire consisted of a canvas shirt and a poneva (flared skirt). From above, women put on an apron or a zapon, tied a belt. A high kick or magpie is required on the head. The whole outfit was richly decorated with embroidery.

The Slavic costume of the northern lands had a shirt, a sundress and an apron. Sundresses were sewn from one linen or from wedges and decorated with braid, lace, and embroidery. The headdress was a scarf or kokoshnik decorated with beads and pearls. In cold weather, they wore long fur coats or short shower jackets.

Shirt

Worn by women of all social strata, it differed in fabric and decorations. It was sewn from cotton, linen, expensive - from silk. The hem, collar and sleeves were decorated with embroidery, braid, appliqué, lace and other patterns. Sometimes dense drawings adorned the chest part. Pattern, ornament, color and other details differed in each province.

Shirt features:

• Simple cut from straight details;
• The sleeves are wide, long, so as not to interfere, wear bracelets;
• The hem reached to the heels;
• Often a shirt was sewn from two parts (the upper one was expensive, the lower one was cheaper, as it wore out quickly);
• Richly decorated with embroidery;
• There were several shirts, but dressy ones were rarely worn.

Sundress

Ancient Russian women's clothing was worn until the 18th century in all segments of the population. They sewed things from canvas, satin, brocade, silk. Sheathed with satin ribbons, braid, embroidery. At first, the sundress looked like a sleeveless dress, then it became more diverse:

• Deaf - sewn from one canvas folded in half, a neck was made along the fold, decorated with bright fabric;
• Swing, oblique - appeared later and 3-4 canvases were used for its tailoring. Decorated with ribbons, patterned inserts;
• Straight, swing - sewn from straight fabrics, which were gathered on the chest. Held on two narrow straps;
• A kind of straight two-piece - skirt and bodice.

For rich women, a sarafan-shushun flared to the bottom was common. Long sleeves were sewn to it, but they were not worn. The shushun was fastened with buttons to the very bottom.

Poneva

The skirt is made of three fabrics wool fabric. Weave at home, alternating woolen and hemp threads. A cellular pattern was created. Decorated with tassels, fringe. Young women were brighter. They were worn only by married women, sometimes letting out a shirt on the belt. An apron or a patch with a hole for the head was put on top of the skirt.

Outerwear:

• The letnik was sewn from a plain fabric and reached the length of the calves. It was decorated with a fur collar;
• A shower warmer is short, just below the waist, quilted clothing with a wadded lining. Sheathed with bright fabrics, brocade, satin and fur. Worn by peasants and nobility;
• A fur coat sewn with fur inside was worn by women of all strata, furs were cheaper for peasant women.

Hats

The headdress completes the clothes in the Russian style, which was different for unmarried and married women. The girls part of their hair was open, they tied ribbons, hoops, bandages, openwork crowns on their heads. Married women covered their heads with a scarf over a kiki. The headdress of the southern regions was in the form of a shoulder blade and horns.

In the northern regions, women wore kokoshniks. The headdress looked like a round shield. Its solid base was decorated with brocade, pearls, beads, beads, among the nobility - with expensive stones.

Children's

There were few children's clothes, they were appreciated, outwardly they looked like an adult outfit. The younger children carried on after the older ones. Quite for the little ones, it could be with short sleeves, for convenience, even resemble a dress.

The first diaper for a boy was the father's shirt, and the girls' mother's. In ancient Russia, clothes for children were altered from parental outfits. It was believed that the energy and strength of the parents would save the baby from any illness, someone else's evil eye. Shirts for boys and girls did not differ, they were tight, long to the toe. Clothes were lovingly decorated with maternal embroidery, which was a talisman for the child.

At about the age of 3, children were sewn their first shirt from a new linen. A 12 summer girls relied on a new poneva or sundress, for boys - trousers-ports. For teenage children, the outfits were already more diverse, repeating adult models: a blouse, pants, fur coats, and hats.

The traditional clothes of Ancient Russia have long gone down in history. But the fashion ideas of designers look spectacular in a modern outfit with elements of Russian style. Ethnic image is in fashion now.

Dresses in Russian design attract with their modesty, restraint with a shallow neckline, medium length or almost to the floor. Along with sophistication, originality is given by Russian patterns on clothes:

• Floral motifs on the fabric;
• Hand embroidery of plant patterns;
• Sewing, applications;
• Beading, ribbons;
• Lace weaving, crochet, knitting.

Finishing is done on the cuffs, hem, neckline or yoke. Natural fabrics (cotton, linen) are very popular. And conveys femininity and purity of delicate colors (blue, beige, green, pistachio). The style of a dress or sundress can be different, both loose and fitted with a slightly flared skirt, or "sun". Sleeves are long and short.

Complement the image in folklore color with jewelry, accessories (large earrings, beads, strap) and outerwear. It can be a vest, a coat or a warm coat, a muff. On the head, a fur hat or bright colors of scarves will complement the image. Fashion designers sometimes in modern outfits use the effect of layering with a change in the volume and shape of the sleeves.

At present, Russian-style clothing sets for men, women, and children bring national flavor to festivities, holidays. New trend - party in Russian folk style- returns guests to Ancient Russia, to its traditions, round dances, games.

Russian national clothes are the custodian of cultural roots. The artistic image has been preserved through many centuries. Now there is a revival of interest in Russian traditions, holidays, and culture. New modern outfits appear that use elements of the Russian costume.

Peasantry - the custodian of aesthetic ideas and traditions in folk costume

The Russian national costume was preserved mainly in the peasant stratum of society, since, according to the decree of Peter I ruling classes Russia had to switch to the mandatory wearing of foreign-style dresses. The formation of the composition, cover, features of the ornament was influenced by the geographical environment and climatic conditions, the economic way of life and the level of development of the productive forces. The vastness of the territory of settlement, various natural environments and raw materials, the nature of customs and living conditions have led to the emergence of diverse clothing options. Thus, in Russia there was no single national costume.

So, in women's clothing, with all the abundance of species, four complexes are distinguished:

1. Shirt with poneva and magpie headdress.

2. Shirt with sundress and kokoshnik.

3. Shirt with a skirt - andarak.

4. Dress-cup.

The first two are the main ones. The costumes differed from each other in their components, features of cut and decor. The evolution of the costume in the popular environment was slow. The first complex covered the southern and central regions of Russia - Orel, Kursk, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Moscow, Kaluga provinces. In each of them he had significant differences.

South Russian costume: more ancient in origin. It consists of a long linen shirt, over which married women put on hip clothes - poneva, there was certainly an apron (curtain, zapon). This was followed by chest clothing, which descended just below the waist and had a variety of names: nasov, pommel, shushun, sukman, shushpan. Mandatory for women was a deaf multi-piece headdress. The girls wore different type bandages. The costume was made from home-made materials.

The complex with a sundress or North Russian, which existed in the Russian North, in the regions of the Volga region, the Urals, Siberia, in some areas (Smolensk, Kursk, Voronezh, Kharkov provinces) consisted of a shirt and long sundress, over it they put on a soul warmer - a short chest garment with straps. In the cold season, shugay at the waist with a collar and sleeves. With such a costume, girls wore a bandage or a crown, and married women wore a kokoshnik.

A suit of a shirt and a striped, less often plaid andaraka skirt (cloth , sukminki) was not typical for Russians in general. It has received local distribution in certain villages of the Vologda, Kursk, Oryol, Ryazan, Smolensk provinces.

Women's costume, characteristic of the Cossacks of the Don basin and North Caucasus, with a swinging dress - a kubelka, which was influenced by the local population. It was worn over a shirt, often with a knitted cap and trousers, in the 19th century it was supplanted by a skirt with a jacket.

In the folk costume, the division into everyday, working, festive, ritual was clearly observed. Festive clothes have always been newer, more often they were made from expensive fabric, made up of a large number of items, and richly decorated. Festive clothes were also divided: one was worn on Sundays, the other on major annual holidays. Ritual costumes adjoin it: a betrothed girl, wedding, funeral (sometimes it is also wedding). It is interesting that the reaping, working shirt was raised by the rite to the rank of a festive one and was decorated especially magnificently. An everyday suit for housework and in the field was made of especially durable fabrics and decorated more modestly. Clothing has always emphasized family and age differences. In the southern regions of the country, the only clothing for a girl up to 14-15 years old was a shirt, the girls wore a linen skirt - "hem", in the costume of a young woman, brighter colors of the elderly prevailed - darker. The headdresses of girls and women differed, and old women are also known. Widows wore white clothes. Baby suit almost completely repeated the adult, but consisted of a smaller number of items. In the wardrobe of a wealthy peasant woman there were brocade sundresses, fur-trimmed dushegrey, and headdresses adorned with pearls. The costume of the Ural Cossacks was rich. In poor families, homespun fabric prevailed; weaving, small freshwater pearls, glass beads, beads, bird down and dyed feathers were used as decoration.

Common features in folk clothes:

1. Deaf, straight, swinging clothes reveal the desire to create a massive, slightly dissected form, a solid and simple silhouette.

2. Massiveness increases downwards, this is emphasized by shoes - woven bast shoes with thick onuchs, large ruffled boots and heavy cat-shoes, which were worn over seven or eight pairs of thick woolen stockings.

3. The waist is not emphasized, hidden behind bibs. Thus, body shapes are not revealed.

4. Folk costume is very complex. This complexity is combined with patterned weaving, multi-seam embroidery, sewing and knitting with various materials, appliqué.

The preferred colors are white and red, but the clothes of wealthy northerners and Volzhan women were made from purchased expensive fabrics such as damask and semi-brocade.

The costume of the Russians of Siberia is distinguished by an unusual brightness and unexpectedness of color characteristics. Outerwear is usually black, brown, dark yellow, gray, but often blue dyed and little decorated. Men's costume, with the exception of outerwear, follows the proportions and articulations of the human body.

From time immemorial, the basis of women's and girls' costumes was a shirt - the most ancient common Slavic element. Throughout Russia, girls and women wore a long white shirt, sewn from straight panels of linen or hemp fabric. Shirts were one-piece or compound. One-piece ones were sewn from four longitudinal canvas panels (wore by girls).

Types of Russian women's shirts.

1. Shirts with polyk (straight or oblique) - shoulder inserts that expand their upper part and collar. They were sewn either on the warp or on the weft. Poliks were cut out separately or together with sleeves.

2. Tunic shirts, shirts with a collar and a shirt with a yoke. The shape of the sleeves is straight or tapering to the wrist, puffy at the shoulders or at the wrist, loose or pleated with or without gussets, gathered under a narrow lining or on a wide cuff decorated with lace. In wedding and festive clothes from the 17th century to the end of the 19th century, there were shirts - long-sleeved ones, which had a sleeve up to two meters long, with wedges, without gathering. When worn, such a sleeve was assembled in horizontal folds, or had special slots-windows for threading hands. Similar shirts were made from linen, and more expensive silk fabrics and brocades.

Each province had its own decoration techniques, locations and ways of embodying patterns, a certain color scheme. Patterned weaving and embroidery with linen, silk, woolen, and later cotton threads prevailed in ancient shirts.

The main locations of the patterns are the collar, shoulders, sleeves, hem. On the collar there is a narrow strip of weaving or embroidery, later an appliqué of bright stripes of fabric. In some shirts, the entire chest part was embroidered with a dense ornament. More often, the central motif of the decoration of the shirt was polyki made of calico, printed chintz, satin, or inserts of patterned weaving. They were additionally distinguished at the seams by black, red or polychrome embroidery, set, counting stitch, semi-cross stitch, lace trims, sewn-on sequins and various buttons. Sometimes the patterns were along the seams, the bottom was clearly emphasized, and they were completely ornamented. Particular attention was paid to underwear and slanting shirts, on the bottom of which multi-colored patterns were painted with a multi-colored chain stitch, light painting, counted satin stitch, fabric patch or appliqué. Abundant decor was in the South Russian costume. Floral and geometric patterns, palmettes, volutes, rosettes, lace flowers, numerous rhombic and cruciform zigzags, meanders were used. Intense red, dense, as if carpet embroidery and warp weaving are most characteristic of the shirts of the Kursk and Tula provinces. A bright decorative effect was achieved by contrasting the white background of the fabric with color-saturated mantles and sleeves. In others, the entire field of the sleeve was covered with a geometric pattern of branded weaving. Often used colored stripes "peretyki". The combination in one item of all kinds of stripes in color, proportions and materials, the use of sparkles, glass beads, buttons, beads, etc. enhances the play of color, tonal relationships.

Shirts from the villages of the Voronezh province, decorated with embroidery, silk or woolen threads in black in the technique of set. The graphic nature of the seam, the narrow fractional stripes of the ornament give rise to a strict sophistication of style and make up their original beauty. Women's shirts of the Odnodvortsy are distinguished by a feature of cut and decor. Poliks and the upper part of the sleeves were decorated with stripes of fabrics of stitching and embroidery. The so-called "breech" - wide cuffs made of silk ribbons - were put on top of the wrist. The hem was decorated with a strip of mortgage or warped weaving. Solemn elegance was given by a vertically standing collar, called the "trump card". On the edge it was sheathed with factory lace and braid. On holidays, they put another one on him.

Shirts of residents of the northern and central provinces of Russia. Embroidery was done with cotton, silk and gold spun threads. Numerous shades of red prevailed, sometimes interspersed with blue and black, with metallic sparkles, double-sided sewing prevailed. On wedding shirts, the width of the embroidered pattern on the hem sometimes reached 30 centimeters or more.

Along with geometric motifs, peahens, horses, leopards, the tree of life with forthcoming figures were used.

In some cases, decorations of different methods coexisted on one object. This is especially evident on the shirts of the betrothed girls of the Vologda Arkhangelsk and Tver provinces, there are solar signs: circles, crosses, complicated rhombuses, which in the beliefs of the Slavs carried a semantic load. Colors: white, light red, often the use of a metal thread, gold-woven materials. Restrained sound of color, but it is possible to combine contrasting dark purple with gold.

The decoration of girls' shirts in Russia is more modest and takes up less space. Children's and old women's shirts were decorated even more simply. Old women often wore undecorated linen shirts, tied with yarn.

Poneva: an obligatory accessory of a married woman's costume. It consisted of 3 panels of homespun, often plaid woolen fabric. According to the cut, ponevs are divided into non-sewn "oar", the most characteristic of the southwestern regions of Russia, and deaf ponevs with a seam. Seam - a fourth inserted between three panels, made from a different texture, as a rule, factory fabric. In addition to the cut, they differed in the ways of ornamentation and the manner of wearing. They were worn in a bag, tucking one or two front flaps into the belt and forming a special hall at the back, which required additional ornamentation. The manner of decoration is very diverse. Geometric patterns are typical for this species, the coloring is restrained and strict, but there were also bright ponevs, among which Orlov ones were completely decorated with appliqué. The variant of the poneva with a seam has become widespread in the Kursk, Voronezh, Smolensk and other provinces. They were covered with rich polychrome embroidery, silk or woolen threads, sequins, stripes. The abundance and unusualness of decorations in Voronezh and Ryazan ponevs in red-orange and brown-yellow colors.

On the festive ponevs of young women (before the birth of a child), in addition to the usual decorations, there were additional decorations. Depending on wealth, they were decorated with purchased items: wide metal lace, stripes of gown, fringe of threads, cord, beads, sparkles. Sometimes, numerous large rosettes of bright ribbons with beads or bells in the center, tassels of silk threads were sewn onto the back panels of young women.

Sarafan is a term of eastern origin, meaning "dressed from head to toe. There were four types:

1. Deaf oblique wedge sundress, which existed in the north - Novgorod, Olonets, Pskov regions. It was sewn from a fabric panel bent over the shoulders, and slightly beveled or longitudinal wedges were inserted on the sides. Feryaz - a deaf sundress made of red cloth.

2. A skewed open sundress is common on the territory of the European part, in the regions of the Urals. It was called swinging because its front consisted of two, and not one, panels of fabric, connected by clasps on copper, tin or silver buttons, or sewn and having a purely decorative clasp. The sides are widened with additional wedges that give the silhouette a trapezoid shape. Wedding and holiday sewing from brocade and damask.

3. Later in time of occurrence is a round or straight sundress with straps. Later, he replaced the heavy slanting sarafan from brocade, because it was easier to manufacture. For everyday life, it was sewn from motley so that, chintz. Festive from bright silk fabrics. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, semi-brocade was most often used for wedding sundresses in wealthy families. Blue, green, dark blue and dark cherry tones prevailed. Scattered across the field of silk were individual flowers or their bouquets, woven with gold and silver thread. The front line was decorated with gold and silver lace, as well as expensive, filigree buttons. In the southern regions, they preferred canifas, satin, white and black cloth, and Chinese. The choice of fabric depended on the wealth of the family. Of particular interest are black, woolen sundresses from the Kursk province with rich, dense embroidery in red, green, yellow woolen threads.

In addition to ponev and sundresses in national costume there is a skirt - woolen homespun skirts of odnodvorok are interesting. Color: green, red, burgundy, blue tones. On wedding dresses, polychrome embroidery with woolen threads was made over multi-colored stripes. Plots: human figures, eight-petal and vortex rosettes, solar symbols, garlands. Decorated with plush appliqué and lace. In the "sad" skirts, the red color disappeared altogether and was replaced by burgundy.

Apron

1. A tunic-like apron worn over the head with sleeves or narrow armholes - usually included in a complex with a pony (curtain, zapon). In the costume of girls and adult girls, he was the only addition to the shirt.

2. With a sundress worn:

a) an apron with ties above the labor

b) a shoulder strap with a breast or a breastplate - tied at the waist and complemented by a braid around the neck.

Since the end of the 19th century, an apron fastened at the waist has been widely used. It was worn with skirts and sundresses. In addition to protection from pollution, aprons carried a decorative load, covering the undecorated parts of the costume. They contributed to the creation of an integral composition of the ensemble. The saturation and density of the decor increased from the top to the hem. On South Russian aprons, there are developments of plant and zoomorphic images. In addition to ponies and sundresses, skirts are found in some areas, initially as a local phenomenon, and in the 20th century as the predominant version of waist clothing. Of great interest are the woolen striped homespun skirts of one-yard houses (Ryazan and Tambov provinces). Despite the same cut, they differed sharply, even in neighboring villages, in color, proportions and combination of stripes. Green, red, blue tones are common in color. Skirt material was polished. At the wedding, over bright multi-colored stripes, polychrome embroidery was made with woolen threads. Her favorite subjects were human figures, eight-petal and vortex rosettes, solar symbols, garlands. In addition, skirts were decorated with plush appliqué and lace.

Apron. Women's peasant costume everywhere included an apron, which, according to its design, was divided into several types.

One of them - a tunic-like apron worn over the head with sleeves or narrow armholes, was usually included in a complex with a pony and existed mainly in the central and southern Russian provinces under the name "curtain", "zapon". In the costume of girls and girls, he was the only addition to the shirt. There are isolated cases of its existence in the Novgorod and Semipalatinsk provinces. A later option is considered an apron on a yoke.

Other types of aprons were usually worn with a sundress. One of them was fastened with ties above the chest, the other - a flap with a breast or a breast - was tied at the waist and with an additional ribbon around the neck. Such aprons were distributed mainly in the Central Russian zone, the Volga region, in the Urals, in Siberia. From the end of the 19th century an apron, fastened at the waist, was widely used. It was worn with skirts and later types with sundresses.

Aprons carried a large decorative load: they covered the undecorated part of the costume, contributed to the creation of a solid color composition of the ensemble. The aprons of the southern regions, repeating in general terms the decoration of shirts, were ornamented more intensively than the northern ones. The saturation and density of the decor increased rhythmically from the top to the hem. The pattern was formed from various ornamental compositions in terms of style, technique and material. These are harmoniously connected, sometimes repeating stripes of weaving, weaving patterns, bright silk ribbons, fabric applique, lace. In some cases, sequins, lace, silk and metal fringe are used.

On South Russian aprons, there are developments of plant and zoomorphic images. In the decoration of aprons in the northern regions, especially in the Vologda and Arkhangelsk provinces, preference was given to embroidery with a double-sided seam, painting, and typesetting. There were both geometric patterns and complex compositions: horses with riders, lions, leopards. originality color combinations, unusual decorative means - attract the aprons of the villages of the Moscow province. Weaved entirely with narrow stripes of red, blue, yellow, orange-brown tones, they, like a shell, completely covered the entire suit in front. Their decor was certainly combined in tone and technique with the decoration of shirt sleeves.

Chest clothing. An important, and sometimes obligatory, component of an elegant women's costume was shoulder (chest) clothing, which was worn mainly in the autumn-spring period, over a shirt, poneva and apron.

In the southern provinces, married women used tunic-shaped bibs, which resembled a shirt, but shorter, as festive ones. Uniform in cut, they differed in material, neckline, the presence or absence of sleeves, wedges, and length. According to the number and color of decorations, they had different names in different provinces: shushpan, shushun, nasov, sukman, while away, yellow, top, skirt, bastrog.

Depending on the time of year and place of existence, they were sewn from canvas, fine cloth or wool, sometimes richly ornamented. The front of the bibs was decorated with lace stitching, appliqué, colored fabric, red, yellow, blue flowers, the section of the collar and shoulders were trimmed with abundant, monophonic or polychrome embroidery and stripes of mortgage or woven fabric.

In addition to tunic-shaped ones, in the south of Russia there are also swing hoods. Unlike the first, often belted, they were worn without a belt. In the Tula province, their hem was decorated with silk or woolen fringe with sequins and beads, and in Tambov in side seams calico or calico wedges were inserted. In contrast to the peasant costume, in the single-court costume of the south of Russia, a dark, tight-fitting corset was used, which gave it harmony. It was decorated with colored tambour embroidery.

The type of shoulder clothing is also known - on straps. Such is the "bastrog" that existed in the Ryazan and Tambov provinces. It has a trapezoid shape and reaches the waist, resembling northern dushegres. Bastrogs were covered with calico appliqués, polychrome embroidery with wool, and sequins.

In the northern regions, dushegrei, which were also called korotena, feather, epanechka, short fur coat, were made of brocade, velvet, and scarlet damask. Especially elegant were the soul-greaves of crimson velvet, thickly embroidered with a braid or gold thread. They were typical for the inhabitants of the rich, villages, as well as townspeople - petty bourgeois, merchants. Swinging shugai (like jackets) with sleeves were quilted on wadding, large turn-down collar and the sleeves were trimmed with metal fringe or inexpensive fur. Jackets "fur coats" were sewn from expensive silks and furs.

Shoulder clothing formed the silhouette of the suit.

Headdresses. One of the most important components of the costume was the headdress, which completed the entire (costume) ensemble. The whole territory of Russia is characterized by two sharply different categories of headgear. The girlish ones, which left the hair and the parietal part of the head open, had the form of a wreath - a hoop or bandage.

Women's headdresses were varied, but all of them completely hid hair, which, according to popular beliefs, possessed witchcraft power and could bring misfortune. The headdress emphasized not only the change in the woman's marital status, but also her social and property status.

Girls' headdresses were quite simple in their form and method of manufacture. Bandages had a rectangular shape and were fastened on the head with ribbons or ribbons. Their earliest appearance was head panels made from a strip of canvas with ends ornamented with embroidery with a double-sided seam in satin stitch, a semi-cross, sequins and a metal thread. In the southern regions, preference was given to geometric motifs in ornamentation, while in the northern regions - vegetative ornithomorphic ones.

The most common were girlish headdresses in the form of a crown or a hoop. Depending on the place of existence, the material for their manufacture was different. In the southern regions of Russia, fabrics, braid, ribbons, beads, buttons, sequins, and feathers were widely used. The color scheme of these headbands, headbands, wreaths is bright and saturated. Dyed bird feathers, including peacock feathers, were used not only in the headdress itself, but also as its additional parts.

Bandages, ribbons, bangles made of brocade and braid, damask fabric and strips of calico with rich embroidery with gold thread, typical of the northern provinces, were made wide, on a thick basis. Sometimes they were decorated with a bottom or duckweed made of freshwater pearls, chopped mother-of-pearl, and beads descending onto the forehead.

Volumetric openwork "crowns from the city", corunas, bangs, also decorated with pearls, mother-of-pearl, inserts of stones and glass, and colored foil have become widespread.

The wedding coruna was a dense rim with a lace, under which an openwork wreath adorned with pearls, mother-of-pearl, beads, with inserts of foil, glass, and sometimes sewn on brooches protruded.

A variant of the all-Russian girl's headdress was a factory-made scarf folded with a tourniquet and tied back at the ends. Beaded pendants served as an addition to it.

The basis of all varieties of South Russian headdresses of the "magpie" type was a hard forehead part sewn from quilted canvas, compacted with hemp or birch bark, worn directly on the hair. Depending on the shape, flat or imitating a receding horn, it was called a kichka or a horned kichka. It was this detail of the dress that gave its entire structure one form or another, which was completed with the help of the upper part, a kind of cover made of calico, chintz or velvet - magpies; the back of the head was covered with a rectangular strip of fabric - the back of the head. Sometimes this dress included up to twelve parts, and its weight reached up to five kilograms.

There were various variations of this dress: horned, hoof-shaped, spade-shaped, bowler-shaped. So in the Ryazan province, along with almost flat kichkas with barely outlined horns, there are also headdresses with horns up to thirty cm high on their headdresses. fans. Headdresses were especially different from each other in the ways and plots of decor, colors. In the Oryol, Tula, Kursk, Voronezh provinces, preference was given to light red, green, yellow colors, while in the southeast - in the Ryazan, Tambov provinces, dark red and black. Embroidery with hand-painted, typesetting and satin stitch with multi-colored silk, wool, cotton thread with the addition of sequins and beads was widely used on the cape. She gave comprehensive information about the age. The headdresses of young women were most brightly decorated before the birth of a child. Gradually, the pattern became more and more dry and restrained, the old women wore magpies with white or sparse black embroidery.

Made in the same way as magpies from calico and velvet, the nape was covered over the entire surface with dense embroidery, often supplemented with gold embroidery. The front part of the magpie was decorated with a strip of shiny lace, "wires" of drake feathers. In the Tula province, bunches of brightly colored poultry feathers, plugged into the side under a headdress, and balls-"guns" of goose down, attached to a kichka or ear, were widely used. Sometimes the auricles were covered with pillows or wings with a braid, braid, beads, sparkles.

Women's headdresses of the northern provinces of Russia, which had the common name "kokoshnik", differed significantly in their appearance from the southern ones. Unlike magpies, they were made to order by professional craftswomen from factory fabrics. The forms of northern dress, despite the unifying beginning and the name, were very diverse even in the surrounding areas. Almost the entire surface of the helmet-shaped "heads" from the Tver province was covered with a braid, dense sewing with gold thread and a cantle, the ochelie ended with a pearl or beaded bottom - "duckweed". The headdress "duckweed" from the neighboring county was miniature, its richly ornamented crown covered only a tuft of hair at the back of the head, and a very wide duckweed and the back of the head covered the rest of the head.

For the Vladimir, Nizhny Novgorod, Yaroslavl, Kostroma provinces from the 18th century, flat massive kokoshniks with a vertical or horizontal blade above the forehead are characteristic. They are elongated triangular or rounded, sometimes the scope of the ochelya reached 60 centimeters. Front side such kokoshniks were embroidered with pearls using colored foil and glass inserts, and the occipital one, as a rule, was made of cherry velvet and decorated with gold thread embroidery, floral and ornithomorphic ornaments. To the kokoshnik was supposed to be a wide hem, covering almost the entire forehead. In most provinces, expensive kokoshniks and samshurs were worn with scarves. On ceremonial occasions they used shawls embroidered with gold and silver threads with a dense floral ornament. The drawing occupied half of the handkerchief. When put on, its ends folded under the chin.

The centers of production of gold-embroidered shawls were Kargopolye and separate regions of the Nizhny Novgorod and Tver provinces.

By the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, kokoshniks and samshurs were replaced by easier-to-make warriors and collections sewn from factory fabrics.

Removable decorations. They played a big role in women's costume. These are: earrings, bibs, gaitans, back and waist pendants. In all regions of Russia, they had their own color scheme and were made from different materials.

Earrings were the most popular jewelry. A large center for their manufacture was the village of Rybnoye in the Kazan province, the village of Krasnoye on the Volga.

Very interesting home-made earrings from the southern provinces of goose down, feathers, beads, multi-colored woolen threads, beads.

In the north, the most popular were earrings made of lowered pearls, "butterflies", flat, in the form of a rosette, pear-shaped, etc.

Neck and breast "tongues", "breasts", necklaces, zhelki, monista, gaitans, chains.

"Tongues" and "breasts" were made of cotton fabric, ornamented with applique, and the most expensive ones were made of silk, embroidered with gold thread and beaten, decorated with inserts of multi-colored glass and foil.

Beaded monistas and gaitans harmonized with the multicolored South Russian costume. They were wide polychrome strips about 1.5 meters long with a clear pattern of nets, rhombuses, rosettes. Depending on the place where gaitans were made, their color scheme was different. Copper crosses and glazed icons served as an addition.

According to the manner of wearing, the monists and gaitans are close to "harnesses" made of small multi-colored beads, they also wore large amber, or glass beads, covering the neck in several rows.

The northern regions are characterized by either necklaces of the collar or collar type, tightly fitting the neck and representing wide nets made of mother-of-pearl, pearls and white beads, or canvas strips embroidered with the same materials, complemented by colored glass inserts, ribbons. Beads made of amber and all kinds of metal chains, both three-dimensional, ringed, and flat with links made of smooth ribbed or filigree wire, were very popular.

For several centuries, buttons have been an attribute of Russian clothing. They were intended not only for its fastening, but also for decoration. Buttons were made of various metals and decorated in a variety of ways. Engraving, niello, filigree, granulation, inserts of glass and stone, threading with small pearls and mother-of-pearl were used in their ornamentation. When their production ceased by the nineteenth century, buttons continued to be used as pendants or cufflinks.

In South Russian clothing, much attention was paid to decorating the back. Of interest are long beaded threads, which were a continuation of gaitans - "mushrooms" and "notes" made of garus or silk cord, black braid with beads, lush multi-colored tassels and rosettes embroidered with gold thread, sparkles, beads.

In the Ryazan province, back ornaments "wings" consisted of two strips of fabric with a braid, colored stripes, beads, and buttons.

In the Kursk province - "shoulders" of long silk ribbons.

Among the girls, various braids woven into a braid were very popular, made in the north from a braid, silk stripes embroidered with gold thread, in the south and west - lowered beaded blades, multi-colored pendants and tassels.

An obligatory element of the Russian national costume, both female and male, was a belt. They girdled shirts, sundresses, outerwear, fastened waist.

Depending on the purpose, the belt was tied under the chest or under the stomach. If the sundress was made of expensive fabrics (damask, brocade, velvet), the belt was sometimes tied on a shirt underneath. Since ancient times, he was considered a talisman of the owner. The people associated various superstitions with the belt.

The girls wore various "gourmet" pockets on their belts - richly ornamented with embroidery and appliqué. Women - small purse pockets for money and small items. Men hung combs, pouches, devices for striking fire on their belts.

Belts were woven, woven. Belts made of velvet, galloon and metal became widespread among the Cossacks, and a figured buckle was an obligatory addition to them. The length and width of the belts are different depending on their purpose and place of existence. Some belts were decorated with woven inscriptions.

Men's suit. It was more of the same type throughout Russia and did not differ in such colorfulness as women's.

Ethnic and local differences were weaker than social and age differences.

Part men's suit everywhere included a shirt, ports (pants), a belt, shoes and a headdress.

Everyday clothes were sewn from homespun checkered or striped variegated or heeled fabric, and at the same time they were hardly decorated.

The most ancient part of the costume, which has undergone little change, was a short, knee-length, tunic-shaped shirt with a straight, often oblique cut of the collar and a gusset. On the back and chest, a piece of "underlay" fabric was sewn from the inside. Just like women's, men's shirts were necessarily girded with a homespun or leather narrow belt, often ending in tassels.

Festive and wedding shirts were decorated with weaving or embroidery, mostly red, on the collar, chest slit, sleeves and hem. The patterns used are the same as for women's shirts. The most elegant were the wedding and festive shirts of young men. Decorations on them were sometimes located on the back and were multi-colored, numerous and varied in technique.

The shirts of grooms from the Semipalatinsk province were especially colorful. Their back and chest are richly colored with a pattern of a geometric nature. Blue and red colors predominate in embroidery. The pattern is located asymmetrically, in the form of a wide strip, braid, lace, appliqué are used in the decor.

The shirts of the southern provinces were decorated much more intensively than the northern ones. Voronezh shirts were embroidered with black thread.

Men's ports (pants) were sewn from striped fabric or heels, from white homespun cloth, in cold weather - from home-made cloth. Ports were the same appearance throughout Russia, the differences concerned only some details of the cut. As a rule, they were not decorated.

The headdresses of Russian peasants are varied, but the main ones were felted hats of white, gray or brown wool of two types - with a crown and small brim and caps - felt boots without brim. Wedding hats were richly decorated. Winter hats in the northeast were borrowed from indigenous peoples and gradually replaced by the traditional hat with earflaps.

The formation of any national costume, its cut, ornament and features, has always been influenced by such factors as climate, geographical location, economic structure and the main occupations of the people. National clothes emphasized age and family differences.

In Russia, the national costume has always had features depending on the region and was divided into everyday and festive. By national dress it was possible to understand where a person comes from, to which social class he belongs. The Russian costume and its decoration contained symbolic information about the whole family, about its occupations, customs and family events.

Our people have long been considered an agricultural people, and this, of course, influenced the features of the national costume: its ornament, cut, details.

Scientists believe that the Russian national costume began to take shape around the 12th century. It was worn by peasants, boyars, and tsars until the 18th century, until, by decree of Peter I, a forced change of costume to a European one took place. Peter I believed that cultural and trade communication with Europe was very important for Russia, and the Russian costume was not very suitable for this. In addition, it was not very convenient for work. Perhaps it was a political step, or maybe just a matter of taste of Peter I himself, but one way or another, since then, the Russian national costume has been preserved for the most part in the peasant layer. By decree of Peter I, it was forbidden to produce and sell Russian clothes, fines and even deprivation of property were provided for this. Only peasants were allowed to wear the national costume.

With all the abundance various clothes, in Russia, several basic sets of Russian women's costume stood out. This is a sarafan complex (Northern Russian) and a pony complex (South Russian, more ancient). At the same time, the shirt has long been the basis of women's attire. As a rule, shirts were made of linen or cotton, and more expensive ones were made of silk.

The hem, sleeves and collar of the shirts were decorated with embroidery, braid, buttons, sequins, appliqués and various patterned inserts. Sometimes a dense ornament adorned the entire breast part of the shirt. Patterns, ornaments, details and colors in different provinces were special. For example, the shirts of the Voronezh province, as a rule, were decorated with black embroidery, which added rigor and sophistication to the outfit. But in the shirts of the central and northern provinces, one can mainly note embroidery with gold threads - silk or cotton. In the northern and central provinces, red, blue and black colors prevailed, as well as double-sided sewing. South Russian shirts (for example, Tula and Kursk provinces) were characterized by various patterns and dense red embroidery.

It is interesting that on the shirts of girls (mainly from the Tver, Arkhangelsk and Vologda provinces), who were already betrothed, there were various geometric patterns: rhombuses, circles, crosses. Among the ancient Slavs, such patterns carried a semantic load.

Sundress

Sarafan (from the Iranian word serārā- the meaning of this word is approximately “dressed from head to toe”) was the main clothing of the northern Russian regions. Sundresses were also of several types: deaf, swing, straight. Swing sundresses, popular in the regions of the Urals, had a trapezoidal silhouette, and differed in that their front was sewn from two panels of fabric, and not one (as in a deaf sundress). Cloths of fabric were connected with beautiful buttons or fasteners.

A straight (round) sundress with straps was easier to manufacture. He appeared a little later. The most popular colors and shades for sundresses were dark blue, green, red, blue, dark cherry. Festive and wedding sundresses were sewn mainly from brocade or silk, and everyday from coarse cloth or chintz. The choice of fabric depended on family wealth.

Over the sarafan, a short shower jacket was worn, which was festive clothing for the peasants, and everyday for the nobility. The shower warmer was sewn from expensive, dense fabrics: velvet, brocade.

The more ancient, South Russian national costume was distinguished by the fact that it consisted of a long canvas shirt and poneva.

Poneva

Poneva (loinclothes, such as a skirt) was an obligatory accessory for a married woman's costume. It consisted of three panels, was deaf or swinging; as a rule, its length depended on the length of the women's shirt. The hem of the poneva was decorated with patterns and embroidery. The poneva itself was made, as a rule, from a fabric in a cage, semi-woolen.

Poneva was dressed on a shirt, and wrapped around her hips, and a woolen cord (gashnik) held her at the waist. An apron was often worn in front. In Russia, for girls who had reached the age of majority, there was a ritual of dressing a poneva, which said that the girl could already be betrothed.

In different regions, ponevs were decorated in different ways. They also differed in color scheme. For example, in the Voronezh province, ponevs were richly decorated with orange embroidery and sequins.

And in the Ryazan and Kaluga provinces, ponevs were decorated with complex woven patterns. In the Tula province, there was mainly a red poneva, and a black checkered poneva was found in the Kaluga, Ryazan and Voronezh provinces.

Ponyovs were decorated with additional details, depending on family income: fringe, tassels, beads, sequins, metallic lace. The younger the woman was, the brighter and richer her pony was decorated.

In addition to sarafans and ponyas in the Russian national costume, there were andara skirt and kubelok dress. It should be noted that these outfits were not used everywhere, but only in certain regions and villages. For example, a kubelok dress was the distinctive clothing of the Cossacks. It was worn by Don Cossacks and Cossacks of the North Caucasus. It was a dress that was worn over a shirt with wide sleeves. Bloomers were often worn under this dress.

In the Russian folk costume, there was a clear division into everyday and festive attire.

Everyday costume was as simple as possible, it consisted of the most necessary elements. For comparison, a festive women's costume of a married woman could include about 20 items, and everyday only 7. Casual clothes were usually sewn from cheaper fabrics than festive ones.

Work clothes were similar to everyday clothes, but there were also special clothes, just for work. Such clothes were sewn from more durable fabrics. An interesting fact is that the working shirt for harvesting (harvesting) was richly decorated and was equated to a festive one.

There was also the so-called ceremonial clothing, which was worn for weddings, funerals, and church.

Another distinctive feature of the Russian folk costume was the variety of headdresses. The headdress completed the entire ensemble, making it whole.

In Russia, hats for unmarried girls and married women were different. Girls' headdresses left part of their hair open and were quite simple. These were ribbons, bandages, hoops, openwork crowns, scarves folded in a bundle.

And married women had to cover their hair completely under a headdress. Kika was a women's elegant headdress of married women. According to the old Russian custom, a scarf (ubrus) was put on over the kiki.

We would especially like to draw your attention to the fact that we attach rare books on history to the article.Russian national costume:

• Materials on the history of Russian clothing, volume I, 1881 — Download
• Materials on the history of Russian clothing, volume II, 1881 — Download
• Materials on the history of Russian clothing, volume III, 1881 — Download
• Materials on the history of Russian clothing, volume IV, 1881 — Download

• Russian folk clothes Parmon F.M. - Download
• Costume in Russia XV - Early XX century 2000. - Download
• Russian folk clothes Rabotnova I.P. - Download

• Folk clothes in East Slavic traditional rites -Download
• Russian folk clothes and modern dress - Download
• Russian folk costume - Efimova L.V. - Download

• The traditional costume of the Novgorod region Vasiliev.. — Download
• Folk costume of the Voronezh province Ponomarev.. — Download
• Poetry of folk costume Mertsalov M.N.1988. - Download
• Belovinsky L.V. Typology of Russian folk costume - Download
• Bykov A.V. Folk costume of the Vologda region - Download
• Grinkova N.P. Folk costume of the Vologda region - Download
• Grinkova N.P. Temporal decorations in Russian folk women's costume - Download
• Grinkova N.P. Essays on the development of Russian costume - Download
• Gubanova E.N., Ozhereleva O.V. Women's suit - Download
• Zelenin D.K. Russian folk rituals with old shoes (1913) — Download
• Ivanova A. Northern Russian folk costume - Download
• Karshinova L.V. Russian folk costume - Download
• Kislukha L.F. Folk costume of the Russian North - Download
• Makovtseva L.V. Russian folk costume - Download
• Reshetnikov N.I. Folk costume and rituals - Download
• Saburova L.M. Clothing of the Russian population of Siberia - Download
• Sosnina N., Shangina I. Russian traditional costume - Encyclopedia - Download

Traditional Russian women's clothing

National Russian clothing not only protected from cold and heat. She "told" about the marital status of her owner, his age, where he comes from.

Each version of the costume had characteristic details, a special design. The correct selection of fabrics was also important. Decorations, decoration and cut had a hidden symbolic meaning.

According to researchers, the Russian national costume "formed" around the 12th century.

And until the 18th century, it was worn by representatives of all segments of the population - from poor farmers to wealthy boyars and rulers.

After the decree of Peter I, Russian traditional dress gave way to European. Peter was sure that the “common folk costume” was not suitable for a full-fledged cultural and commercial exchange with Europeans.

Some scholars believe that this was not a political move, but a manifestation of the ruler's taste. Since that time, the traditional Russian dress has become "peasant" and has been preserved only among representatives of the relevant segments of the population.

This was enshrined in law: penalties were provided for the production and sale of the Russian national costume.

The traditional Russian dress existed in two versions, festive and everyday. Both are characterized by the so-called "multi-composition" (the presence of several layers of clothing). The silhouette is straight or extended downwards (flared).

Emphasizing the waist was not accepted. When choosing fabrics, bright colors were preferred.

The Russian national costume for women could be sarafan and pony.

The first option was popular in the northern regions, the second - in the south. The basis of the outfit was a spacious shirt. They sewed shirts from natural fabrics - linen or cotton. Representatives of the wealthy segments of the population chose more expensive options, such as silk.

The hem of the shirt, as well as the sleeves and the collar area, were decorated with embroidery, embroidered with braid, sequins and buttons. Also, when sewing, patterned inserts were used. For a festive costume, a shirt was prepared, completely embroidered in front with a dense ornament.

Each region had its own varieties of patterns and ornaments that Russian clothes were decorated with.

The color scheme also varied. In the villages and villages near Voronezh, they wore clothes with black embroidery, which looked very elegant. In the northern and central provinces, bright options were preferred: embroidery with gilded or brightly colored silk or cotton threads. The predominant colors were red, blue and black.

The southern Russian national costume consisted of a long, spacious shirt and a poneva (a thigh piece of fabric that looked like a skirt).

Such clothes were mandatory for married women to wear. The poneva was made from three pieces of fabric. Embroidery and other decorations were placed on the hem. The fabric was chosen from a dense wool blend (as opposed to a shirt, which was sewn from a simple canvas).

"Russian folk costume". Cognitive conversation with children of senior preschool age

At the waist, he kept a cord of woolen threads (gashnik) at the waist. An apron was often additionally worn in front. In the southern regions, shirts were embroidered mainly with red patterns.

Embroidery elements were also of great importance. They communicated important information about the wearer to those around them. For example, on the shirts of the betrothed girls one could see circles, rhombuses and crosses.

Some variants of ornaments had an ancient Slavic origin and pagan meaning.

Sundress

The traditional Russian sundress, surprisingly, has an oriental origin. In translation, the name of this thing means "fully dressed." There were several varieties of sundresses:

• Swing sundresses were worn in the Ural region. They looked like a trapezoid.

  The seam connecting the two pieces of fabric was located in front. The place of fastening of the canvases was decorated with buttons or decorative braid.

• The deaf sundress did not have a seam in front. Such clothes were made from one fabric panel.
• Straight "round" sundresses were very comfortable to wear due to their free cut and the presence of shoulder straps.

The color of sundresses depended on the purpose of the clothes (holiday or for every day).

The most popular was red, blue, light blue, burgundy fabric. For ordinary sundresses, coarse cloth or calico was used. For solemn options, they chose expensive brocade or silk fabric. On top of the sundress, they put on a shower warmer (soul warmer) made of dense cheap material or brocade, fur, velvet, and the like.

Everyday and festive Russian clothes

In the Russian national costume, there was a very clear division of outfits into festive and everyday.

Clothing for daily wear was very simple and consisted of only a few items (usually no more than 7).

They sewed it from inexpensive materials. For work, there were separate versions of the suit - firmly sewn, made of dense fabric, comfortable and not restricting movement.

A festive Russian costume could include up to 20 different elements. Expensive fabrics were used for tailoring: wool, brocade, velvet, etc. They wore such clothes only on solemn occasions, the rest of the time they were carefully stored in chests.

A kind of festive costume was ritual - for going to church, participating in funerals, christenings.

Decorations

Women of any age have long loved a variety of jewelry.

Russian clothes were supplemented with beads, luxurious necklaces, earrings, pendants. In wealthy families, buttons were also decorated with stone inserts, filigree, and elegant engraving.

The headdress was also considered an ornament. Unmarried girls wore bright ribbons, a variety of bandages, hoops or scarves tied in a special way.

Having married, a woman radically changed her image. She completely hid her hair under a kiki or kokoshnik with a scarf thrown over it. Richly decorated kiks and kokoshniks were part of the festive attire, and for everyday use caps-povoyniki and shawls made of cotton or linen were more suitable.

Russian folk costume

Kaftan dress for travel and entertainment

Yesterday we looked at scarf dresses, and today we'll take a look at the kaftan dress. These costumes have a lot in common. Kaftan clothing is often made from lightweight fabrics and is tormented by air. That is why this model is great for those who like to travel to a warm country and just for artists.

What does it look like?

The original version featured an ankle-length tunic with wide sleeves and an open neck. In the modern version, this dress is usually shorter, the sleeves are narrower, the dog is too high. Cats are usually made from lightweight, non-stretchy fabrics such as muslin, linen, or cotton, although luxurious silk alterations occasionally occur.

The kaftan, loose-fitting, flat-seam garment is a traditional North African and Eastern Mediterranean men's garment.

In 1950, Christian Dior was the first to send fashion collections. Later, Yves Saint Laurent and Roy Halston continued to develop the theme of fashionable cutants.

Kaftans became popular in the 1960s thanks to Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, Elizabeth Taylor and many other celebrities. All of them created beautiful images and helped to make Koutan men's clothing the object of an elegant women's wardrobe.

Today, these clothes can be seen in the collections of Etro, Alberto Ferretti, Emilio Pucci and many others.

Who suits a caftan suit and how to combine it

Kaftan - the best choice for travel to a warm area and the sea.

For the image to feel relaxed, the dress should be paired with gold flat sandals or other open shoes. A beautiful belt and long earrings will help transform the cowboy from beachwear to evening events.

A caftan dress will decorate any picture.

Perhaps the only thing to consider is the location of the sample. The site should be located at the level of a body part that can visually increase.

It's universal summer dress worn by wealthy visitors to expensive beach resorts and even just women who want to look elegant and relaxed.

Kaftan dresses are comfortable and light, so this piece is a must in our wardrobe, because places and activities are available not only in summer, but throughout the year.

In addition to light patterns, designers offer caftan clothes made of dense natural fabrics. Many models are decorated with edges, spheres, sequins, embroidery. This dress will be a great choice for a New Year's Eve or other holiday.

Most of the Russian workers in pre-revolutionary Russia were in the first generation and had not yet lost contact with the countryside, where they had relatives; Farmers often came to the city "to work", who returned home for the harvest.

Despite the advent of stratification, farmers and workers still had much in common in the form of thoughts, customs, and modes of dress.

End of XIX. For centuries, farmers in southern Russia have worn traditional clothes made from old patterns: men's shirts and tight trousers, women's clothing, shirts, trousers, aprons and badges.

In the city and entering production, they continued to wear the same thing, but the changing conditions of life and the influence of urban fashion soon led to the creation of a new outfit. Already at the beginning of the twentieth century, people working in factories and facilities were wearing trousers, vests and jackets, and female workers began to wear wings and sweaters.

However, it should be noted that in the clothes of urban workers, part of the farm was partially preserved: for example, the belt that pulled out the shirt was still an obligatory part of men's clothing, and women did not leave an apron.

Continuous interaction with workers began to borrow new styles of clothing from farmers. New clothes entered peasant life and used them along with the old, traditional ones. In general, young people wanted to wear urban clothing, while older people remained true to traditional rural clothing; but there were other options for the coexistence of these two forms of costume.

In other villages, rural women wore shirts and pies in their daily lives, dressed in festive urban clothes for the holidays; but it also happened that the holiday was considered, on the contrary, old, the seam was made to order for peasant clothes, which gave it a sacred value, and clothes in the style of the city were worn on ordinary days.

During the civil war, it was difficult to get a dress or cloth so that the workers and farmers would continue to wear what they had before the war.

Clothing was often strained, with signs of re-repair.

In the same years, many farmers, united in armed units and gangs that were equally opposed to both red and white - then these associations were called "green".

The members of such units were dressed in normal village clothes when they were worn and replaced with clothes they took from the enemy. The typical equipment of the "green" fighter was a strange combination of elements of the red and white army and civilian clothes.

Many departments of the "greens" took care of the clothing needs of the wealthy population and then completed their costumes with expensive luxurious items, such as fur coats, which were worn out regardless of the season. A special charm among the "greens" was that it brought as many weapons as possible.

Traditional peasant dress

Inner fabrics were still used to make peasant clothing in some regions, but they were quickly squeezed out of a variety of fabric materials, from cheap cotton to expensive brocade.

The costumes were decorated with industrial items such as colorful ribbons, mottled gauze, metallic sheen, beads, buttons. The most common traditional clothes there were farmers themselves, but they were especially intricate and beautiful for sewing commissioned by "masters" or at fairs.

Each age corresponded to their ideas about clothes. The brightest dresses were for young women—young women from marriage to the birth of their first child. The clothes of older family farmers seemed more modest: the focus was not on elegance, but on the quality of the material.

For older farmers, it was unacceptable dressed, the clothes were made from colored fabrics that they had with little trimming. From the clothes of the elderly, all decorations have completely disappeared.

The traditional women's costume in the south of Russia was a long T-shirt, a saucepan, an apron (shelter, west) and a badge (lintel, chamois).

The shirt was flat, with long sleeves.

He hid it with the help of the so-called polyclinic inserts. Policas can be straight or oblique. The shelves were connected by four rectangular linen canvases 32-42 cm wide each, and an inclined polygonal (trapezoidal) connected to a wide lower sleeve, a narrow one - to a lid (see Fig.

samples). The solemn shirt was decorated with embroidery, braids, inserts of beautiful bright fabrics.

Women's shirts had feathers. This bow belt, in which a plurality of longitudinal strips are partially or completely interconnected with each other and mounted on top of twisted Gashnikovs (twisted ropes), which have flaps under the tape to the hips.

A jar of non-woven fabrics was called a swing and completely withdrawn as a wing-deaf. In a long saucepan, in this case, the fourth traditional fabric is added to the fourth - “proshka”. It was made from another matter, it was shorter, and from the bottom there was a "second lieutenant" from the part of the fabric from which they were cut. From the outside, it turned out to be something like an apron. The frying pan was usually the same length as the shirt or slightly shorter.

The pins were made from woolen or half-woolen fabrics, sometimes on canvas.

They were dark in color, most commonly blue, black, red, with a sticky or striped pattern.

Over their T-shirts and ponies, the women wore a long apron with sleeves or ribbons or, as it was said, a curtain or curtain.

On his chest, he covered the figure of a woman from a chest and was tied to the chest. The platform can also be single-headed with holes for the head and hands. The platform robes were decorated with intrusions, white or colored lace, of various widths.

Above the shirt, sometimes they wear wings and an apron (breastplate, shushpan, shushkov, noses, etc.) - on hinges or in a sheet form of a tunic with a sleeve.

The daily apron and pavement were modestly trimmed, most often simply woven or crocheted. But festive clothes were decorated with embroidery, woven patterns, colored closures, silk ribbons.

In the traditional costume, old blankets and weddings are preserved, so that a married woman hides her hair to leave the girl exposed. Therefore, the headdress was considered a bandage or a narrow veil covered with a cloth with decorations of balls, balls and balls.

A married woman had a compound head called a magpie. The basis for this was kitsch - a hard head in the shape of a horseshoe, sometimes with small horns that protruded upwards. On it was attached a piece of canvas, the edges of which were attached to a thin string, "climbing".

Kitsch was placed on the head at the level of the forehead and carefully covered with a rag of women's hair, then the cloth was attached to the head, repeatedly connecting the cord of the horn and fastening it. The back of the head and neck was covered with a passenger (at the back) - a rectangular band made of fabric attached to stiffness on cardboard, along the edges on which the bands are sewn. They crossed their foreheads and repeatedly connected the horns, forcing the dogs with their fingers at the back of their heads.

And finally, at the top of the horns, there were actually forty purple, velvet or chins, which crowned the whole structure.

The magpie was decorated with many bright colorful details - colored ribbons, balloon pendants, garlands, lace, bird feathers and down.

An obligatory detail of the costume was the waist, woven or knitted wool (rarely silk thread) and decorated with ornaments.

The most expensive belts with woven inscriptions - for example, the text of a prayer. Most often, the width of the strip changes in 1-6 cm, the length - from 1.2 to 2.5 meters.

On their feet, women wore woolen socks or substitutes for them, narrow ribbons of witches wrapped around their feet. Casual shoes were woven into individual shoes, leather shoes or crampons (shoes with thick soles with heels). The cats were richly decorated with an application from Morocco, sparks, small carnations and even bells.

Cats stood on legs with lace.

Women's costumes of South Russia are characterized by a special color scheme built on contrasting combinations. The most popular color was red.

The ties of rural women in the southern provinces are dominated by geometric ornaments. But in each region the costume had its own characteristics. So, in the Voronezh region, where the cities of Preobrazhensk and Derzhavin could be located, they were ponies in a white cage on a black or red field; they were decorated with colored lines of yellow and green. The shirts were made with slanted kumachi inserts and covered with black embroidery. The platform was waist.

Woven waist belts in Voronezh ended on both sides of oval circles of cardboard and were embroidered with colored wool, metal tiles, glass beads and balls.

During the holidays, women and men wore a necklace on the mushroom chest - consisting of three narrow strips of black knitted rope on tablets, balls associated with four pairs, the same as on the circles of the lapels.

Traditional men's country clothes, both in the north and in the south of Russia, are T-shirts and tight trousers. The shirt is usually worn over trousers and belts.

Men's shirts were only long, almost to the middle of the thighs, and sometimes to the knees. They fought in coats with lateral wedges and inserts. The tube is tilted down, without granules, with a set on the shoulder.

Oval neck, collar. Most often, the incision in the neck area was straight - in the middle of the chest, as well as on the left, right or left (see Fig.

sample).

T-shirts are locked at the throat. The most common casual shirts were blue. Smart - White, black, burgundy, green, red, etc., sometimes in rows or small patterns. Finish - braids, embroidery, gathering and small wrinkles, fashionable buttons (white pearl on a black or dark background, black or color - in the light).

The pants consisted of two pants with two pants and a summer sweatshirt.

They were narrow, narrowed. They were picked up at the waist and held with keys (see sample). Seals are made of black, blue or striped material.

On the legs are sandals of the kora and kora, twisting the lower part of the foot from the base to the waist of the knee, attached to the upper part of the Oboro foot (Lykov with a cord or ribbons), covering the leg transversely.

More expensive boots are low-heeled shoes.

A necessary part of men's peasant clothing was a dog. It can, like women, be woven, knitted or woven. In boys, such belts are usually longer and wider than in married men. The men also wore leather belts in which women were not allowed to walk.

They wore black hats and caps with shiny leather tops.

They were tuned, slightly shifted to one ear.

Suits and farmers in the early twentieth century

Men and women in various industries (and after them farmers) used the most commonly used clothing, which was produced in large quantities and was available to everyone. You can buy such suits in many ready-to-wear stores.

Sometimes they sewed seams at home, but from the factory and from factory samples.

The most common type of plain women's clothing in the early 20th century was the so-called "pair", which can be completed with aprons, heads and shoulders.

"Pair" is a jacket and a wing that rotates together as a single ensemble. They were usually cleaned from one fabric or from woven shades: more colorful - for a jacket, more dyed in color - for a wing.

But sometimes in a dress - the couple uses contrasting colors or mixed materials - for example, smooth printed fabrics with fillings.

The borders were wide, arranged or provided with small wrinkles in the loin, sometimes lined at the edge. Tracklets can range from free to futuristic. Thus, the "Bashka" or "Cossack" jacket was sewn into the wall, with a standing collar, with beautiful sleeves narrowed under the elbow. Head buttons on buttons or flags on the side or in the center.

The flyaway shirts were without, without a belt, and were worn without a belt. Festive jackets were embellished on the chest with machine-made lace and arches.

The platform looked like a strip of fabric gathered into a stripe at the waist, which was tied around the waist. Apricots were everyday and festive, which serve to decorate clothes.

In this case, they were made from expensive fabrics with copious equipment.

Scarves and scarves worn on the head and thrown over the shoulders were very popular. There are many routes: canvas, cotton, calico, silk and calico.

Very valuable napkins with colorful floral patterns.

Fashion history. Russian folk costume

Some workers can afford to wear lace and jokes in lace instead of scarves on holidays. From jewelry they use pearl, beads, orange, coral and glass beads and earrings. There were also rings made of copper, tin and silver.

The girls wore rings with colored glasses, the women a smooth battle.

Shoes - leather shoes with rubber straps on the sides, less often - rough shoes with a small heel.

The men's dress of a worker and a young farmer consisted of a shirt with a belt or skirt, trousers, jacket and jacket.

Dress shirts were similar to traditional peasant shirts, but they were shorter compared to the old style, with tapered sleeves and a higher neckline.

Another novelty - a chest with a chest appeared in Kosovar. On weekdays they were dressed in T-shirts made of black, blue, brown cotton or satin; on holidays, T-shirts made of light fabrics, such as pink, dark red, red satin or silk. Capricorn on top of trousers and waist or wings.

They also had shirts with reflective collars.

Jackets were single-sided and double-breasted, classical style. Dark colored jackets and trousers. As for the vest, it is normal that the shiel fabric is a jacket or vice versa, and the back is made of base material and provided with a sealing tape.

A particular adornment in the early twentieth century is metal, including silver pocket-ear chains placed in the pocket.

The main footwear for such a costume were boots, which were filled with trousers.

The lid was covered with donkeys, leather or cloth, and caps. On a festive day, they were decorated with a silk ribbon or braided ribbon, for which real or artificial flowers were stuck in several places.

Straight cut in folk costume.

The scheme of the cut of a peasant shirt.

3. Types of cut and decoration of folk shirts.

4. Scheme of the cut of a women's shirt with straight skirts.

5. Women's shirt with straight stripes.

Women's shirt with oblique polka.

Straight cut in folk costume.

Russian folk clothing is a phenomenon of the material culture of the Russian people. In accordance with the ethnographic division, it has two pronounced complexes of national Russian women's clothing: North Russian and South Russian. The complex of South Russian folk clothes (Fig. 1) - a shirt, a poneva, an apron (curtain, curtain, zapon) and a headdress.

There were many varieties of this complex, different in purpose, including ritual ones.

Over the shirt in the southern Russian regions, a poneva was worn, which was practically a skirt and consisted of three woolen or half-woolen panels. The ponevs were swing or closed, gathered at the waist with a drawstring. Only married women wore ponevs.

An apron was put on over the shirt and poneva - a curtain (see.

rice. 1, fig. 2). It was also worn over a shirt with a sundress, completing the entire ensemble. The curtain was always decorated with a variety of techniques - patterned weaving, embroideries, stripes of fabrics, and other patterned weaving, embroidery on the curtain was often distributed from top to bottom, but mainly in its lower part.

Sometimes only the lower part of the curtain was made out.

The creation of folk clothes is based on the principles and characteristics, according to which the cut was formed, ornaments were arranged, and individual parts were combined into one or another ensemble.

Russian folk costume

It was established by customs and time when, what and in what combination of clothes to wear.

Directly related to the labor activity of a person, folk clothing is distinguished by a great expediency of cut. For the most part, it is simple and economical, as it is determined by the width of the homespun fabric, the desire to create a form convenient for a person and completely utilize the fabric. Such a suit did not constrain movements and was equally good for hard peasant labor and for festivities.

Russian folk clothes can be represented in two silhouettes: straight (without gathers and with gathers) and trapezoid (skew cut).

These silhouette forms clothes correspond to the natural proportions of the female figure.

For example, the main part of clothing among many peoples is shirt - cut from rectangular pieces of canvas. Her figure, sleeves, inserts under the armpits and on the shoulders (gussets, polyks) were rectangles of different lengths and widths (Fig. 3).