Collars of this type do not have a turn-down part and differ from each other mainly in the height of the stand and the design of its ends (Fig. 1a, b, c). There are stitched (cut-off) and one-piece stand-up collars, that is, we cut out as one piece with the main details of the product.
Stitched stand-up collar
The process of making a stitched stand-up collar, as well as a stand-up collar, consists of two main operations: the preparation of the collar itself and its connection with the neck of the product. Like all the collars discussed above, the stitched stand-up collar is also made double. In this case, the upper collar and collar here can be cut out in two separate parts or together, in the form of a single transverse strip that does not have a seam along the upper fold. The ends of the stitched stand-up collar can be decorated end to end, go one after the other or end with a bow tie.
All of the above design features of the stitched racks determine the differences in the methods of their processing, mainly related to
Collar blank
Option 1. When a snug fit of the collar to the neck is not required, it is made in the form of a straight strip, cut out so that its short side coincides with the direction of the warp threads of the fabric (see race 1, c).
The cut strip of fabric is folded along the length with the front side inward, as shown in Fig. 1a, the transverse sections are leveled, swept and stitched with a seam 0.75 cm wide. To form transitional edges, the seam stocks are ironed on the upper collar (Fig. 1,b). The collar is then turned inside out. front side and finally iron the transition edges and the top fold.
To give greater rigidity and long-term preservation of shape, the stand-up collar is sometimes made with a gasket.
Option 2. When the stitched stand-up collar should fit snugly around the neck e, it is recommended to make it undercut, i.e., consisting of two parts with a seam along the upper edge (see 1, b).
The preparation of a collar, consisting of two parts, is made in the same way as a stand-up collar (see Fig. 2, p. 1)
Option Z. A stand-up collar that turns into a tie (see Fig. 1, a), are performed more often on products that have a blind fastener to the top. The ends of such a collar are lengthened and, if desired, can be tied with a tie or bow.
Stand-up collar that turns into a tie cut out in the form of a straight strip of fabric, the long side of which is located at an angle of 90 or 45 ° to the direction of the warp threads. The width of the strip is taken equal to twice the height of the rack plus a processing allowance (2x0.75 = 1.5 cm). Its length should be equal to the length of the neck with an increase in the tie and its processing (allowances at the ends of 0.75 cm).
It must be borne in mind that the collar of the type in question is sewn into the neck not to the very middle of the front, but not reaching it by 1.5-2 cm on each side, which ensures the accommodation of a tie or bow knot. Therefore, before proceeding with the preparation of the collar, it is required to outline the ends of the seam, sewing it into the neck, both on the collar itself and on the product.
On fig. 3, a control notch, which determines the end of the sewing-in seam, is made on the neck of the shelf at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the line of the middle of the front. To determine the places of the corresponding notches on the collar, the length of the neck section is measured on the product from the middle of the back to the control notch (in Fig. 3 this section is shown by a thickened line), the same amount is measured on the collar in both directions from its middle along the stitching line.
'After completing the indicated markup, the collar is bent in half along the length, the cut edges are equalized and then the ends of the tie are swept and grinded with a seam 0.75 cm wide. at right angles to the cut edge, as shown in Fig. 4a. Stocks of seams in the corners formed by machine lines are notched, not bringing the cuts 0.1 cm to the line. Since in the finished collar, the seams at the ends of the tie should be located on

fold, forming a transitional edging, the allowances are ironed onto the collar exactly along the machine line (Fig. 4, b).
The prepared collar is turned right side out and, having straightened the corners, ironed from the side of the collar
Collar to neck connection

For all considered stand-up collar options the ways of stitching it into the neck are the same. Some differences are due only to the characteristics of the fabrics from which the product is made.
before sewing into the neck of the stand-up collar in the product, as usual, the shoulder seams and fasteners must be processed. The prepared collar with the inner side (i.e., collar) is applied to the wrong side of the product (Fig. 5), the ends of the collar are aligned with the edges of the fastener or control notches that determine the place where the stitching begins, and the cuts of the collar and neckline are equalized. The collar is swept from the side of the product, and the machine stitch is led along the collar, leaving a margin of 0.75 cm, which is then ironed onto the collar, as shown in Fig. 6. The trimmed edge of the upper collar is folded inside out by 0.75 cm, basted along the neck so that it covered the stitching line by 0.1 cm, after which it is adjusted at the very fold along the entire length of the collar (Fig. 7).
The advantage of the considered method of stitching the collar is its comparative simplicity, however, the stitching seam will be visible from the front side, which is not always desirable. For products made from more expensive, woolen or silk, fabrics, a different method of connecting the collar with the neck is used, in which the stitching seam is not visible from the front side of the product.
In this case, the prepared collar, in contrast to the previous ones, is applied with the outer side (i.e., the upper collar) on the front side of the product (Fig. 8), its ends are aligned with the edges of the fastener or control marks, the cuts of the collar and neckline are equalized, stitched in and then sewn in , as indicated above, and the seam is ironed onto the upper collar. The cut (lower) edge of the collar is folded inside out by 0.75 cm, basted and hemmed with manual blind stitches (Fig. 9). For greater strength of the connection, hand stitches of the collar hemming are sometimes replaced with machine stitching. In this case, the cut edge of the collar is also folded inside out, but it is basted with a transition beyond the stitching line of the upper collar by 0.1-0.2 cm (Fig. 10). Stitch the collar from the front side of the product into the groove of the seam.
Features of stitching a stand-up collar, turning into a tie, into a deep neck
Stand-up collar that turns into a tie, on a product with a deep neck (see Fig. 1, a), as in the previous case, it is a straight strip of fabric cut at an angle of 90 or 45 ° to the direction of the warp threads. Moreover, its length is the sum of the size of the neck itself and the length of both knotted ends.

Collar blank and the processing of the ends of the tie is carried out in the same way as for the previously considered collars of this type. As for the stitching operation, its feature here is the processing of the corner of the neck by turning. The prepared facing is applied with the front side on the front side of the front of the product, the cut edges are combined at the heads of the neck and the facing and basted (Fig. 11).
The corner of the neck is turned from the side of the main part with a seam 0.75 cm wide. In this case, the machine line starts from the cut at the left control mark, which determines the beginning of the collar stitching (The control marks that determine the beginning and end of the collar sewing line are marked on the neck, usually at a distance of 4 cm from its corner) then, as shown in fig. 11, lead parallel to the cuts of the neck and at the second control mark again turn perpendicular to the cut. Allowances for the seams of the neck and turning in the corners are notched, not bringing the cuts by 0.1 cm to the line (Fig. 12) and, to form a transitional edging, are ironed onto the main part (Fig. 13). 13 shows how the neck corner should look after turning it.

The techniques and sequence of stitching a collar into a deep neck are no different from those given above. They are shown: for products made of cotton fabrics in fig. 14 and 15, and from woolen and silk - in fig. 16, a and b.

STAND COLLAR(Fig. 17)

The process of making a dress stand-up collar blouses, cut as one piece with the back and shelves, is relatively complex and requires certain skills in tailoring. In addition, the range of fabrics from which a product of such a cut can be made is very limited.
The fact is that the creation of a good shape of a one-piece rack is not achieved by constructive means and requires additional wet-heat treatment (sutyuki, braces). Therefore, before choosing one or another dress model with one piece stand, it is necessary to check whether the fabric intended for sewing can withstand heat treatment. Not all fabrics with an admixture of various synthetic fibers, which are widespread at the present time, can be used for sewing products with one-piece stand-up collar.
Processing sequence
Processing of the shoulder seams of the product. Before connecting the shoulder sections, the darts along the shoulder seams of the back must be stitched. To connect the front to the back, they are folded with their front sides inward, the control notches are combined, the shoulder sections are equalized and swept along the back, and then they are grinded from the side of the shelf (Fig. 18, a).
The allowances of the shoulder seams reduced in width at the level of the neck and shoot lines (the base of the stand) and above are notched in two or three places to a depth of 0.3-0.5 cm and ironed. Sections of the wide part of the allowances of the shoulder seam are overcast with a zigzag stitch and also ironed (Fig. 18, b) or ironed towards the back (Fig. 18, c).
After grinding and final processing of the shoulder seams to give the stand-up collar a shape corresponding to the configuration of the neck, it is subjected to wet-heat treatment, i.e., sutyuzhka (seal) along the base and, if necessary, bracing along the upper edge. To assemble the excess fabric to be sutured, a machine or machine stitch is laid along the neck line with large stitches. hand stitch, on which the fabric is somewhat pulled together. After stitching, the threads of the stitch are removed, and the traces of it are removed again with the help of a wet iron and iron.
If necessary, the upper cut edges of the stand and facing are somewhat pulled back, making sure that the amount of the pull is the same on both halves of the collar. For this purpose, the product and the facing attached to it in several places are folded in half with the front side inward so that the shoulder seams are aligned, and all four sections are pulled at the same time.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will analyze one of the most interesting and extensive design topics - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it with rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our site, select "basic dress pattern" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern, you can print it even on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let's start our "dive" into the topic of modeling collars with the most simple and understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand collars are built in the same sequence, only they have different values ​​\u200b\u200band line configurations. Collars can be with rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end to end, more or less close to the neck. The clasp can be located both in front and behind.

Let's now analyze the construction of the stand collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example, 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and set aside this value in a straight line. To prevent the stand from moving away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the tighter the stand will fit to the neck). Now we set the desired height of the rack (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our collar - the stand. Remember to keep the rack height constant! A blue control notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will align it with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand collar as on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the neck of the back minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the rack according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And draw a beautiful stand! Also, do not forget to check the height of the rack.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. Such a cut of the collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts in the line of the stand.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the value by which one part of the shelf will go behind the other). Usually it is about 2 cm for the central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. We connect the points obtained with lines (red).

We determine the height of the rack. In the example with a one-piece stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder cut it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back, we set aside the height of the stand on the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition of the collar to the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we correct the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw the upper cut of the rack, rounding in front.

Now next in line flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder tuck on the back and the chest tuck on the shelf into the armhole line - it is much more convenient to draw a flat lying collar this way. Now we put the back part on the shelf, leading 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder cut. Determine the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! On the middle seam of the back we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5-5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has something with such a collar. Most often they can be found in shirts. To simplify the sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar as on a blue blouse. As in the stand collars, we initially draw the length of the neckline minus 0.5 cm in a straight line. From one edge (where the middle seam of the back will be) to set the necessary bend of the bottom line of the collar, set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the value of the stand (2, 5 - 3 cm), and the so-called "back collar width" (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up (there may be other values ​​​​depending on the height of the stand and the width of the flight you have chosen). And we try according to the pattern, we draw a collar !!! The rack can be either detachable or one-piece (Figure 6).

Collar cut shawl. These collars are very effective and not laborious in comparison with jacket collars. The upper collar is cut together with the selection, which greatly simplifies the whole work. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we advise you to start with just such a model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache.

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as on the first model. First, let's set the bead width to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, according to the model, you need to determine the depth of the cut and put a point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - set point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the inflection line of the collar (red). Now we measure the length of the neck of the back and with the help of a compass from point a, we make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the neck of the back.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c tangentially set aside the value of the collar departure plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the width of the departure is 6 cm, then the segment cd \u003d 6.8 cm). Point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, we finish the line on the neck - we get the lower cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl departure perpendicular to the lower cut of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last action is to draw a smooth line of the upper cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's see what details we got in the end (Figure 8).

Pickup. We need to draw the inner line of the selection, to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line) we draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from middle line, and then with a slightly convex line and finish at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. We transfer the part onto a separate sheet of paper along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area of ​​​​the transition of the selection to the facing of the back (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer lines of the selection (solid blue and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is made detachable. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The shelf is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket type collars. Such collars are made of four parts - the lower and upper collars and two rack parts. Sometimes the racks are made in one piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the shelf. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with great care, otherwise appearance of the entire product will be damaged.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first construction steps are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a side 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm (for the central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the inflection line of the collar, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left, set point b. We decide on the desired depth of the cutout and draw the line of the inflection of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the neck of the back - we put point c. Then, from point c, tangentially, we set aside the width of the back of the collar plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. We connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d, we restore the perpendicular to the line da and set aside on it, first the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the lines of the departure of the collar, ruffle and lapel. Refer to Figure 11 for an understanding of these concepts.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look like in finished product, draw it on the right side on the shelf details (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this with the help of tracing paper.

Now it remains to draw a complete rack. The upper cut is drawn below the inflection line by 0.5 cm, the width is left 2-2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting details:

• Pickup. It is drawn similarly to the collar of a shawl. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
• Collar (lower and upper). Copies completely with the rack.
• Shelf. We translate everything, only without a collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, diverse and quite complex. So, if you have any questions - feel free to ask them in

Processing of one-piece collars

Unlike a set-in collar, which is made separately and connected to the product in finished form, a one-piece collar is processed during the manufacturing process of the product. The connection of the upper collar with the lower collar is carried out last, simultaneously with the processing of the bead.

In the manufacture of one-piece collars, the following order is followed: a shelf and a back are formed in the neck area; duplicate collar details or connect them with non-adhesive pads; grind tucks; connect the details of the collar and the details of the product; grind the lower collar with the upper one and process the clasp.

The design features of the collars are varied, which leads to a change in the sequence of their processing. Some operations are eliminated, others are added.

There are three types of one-piece collars that differ from each other in processing technology:

collars, in which the shelf or back is integrally cut with the upper collar, or integrally cut stand-up collars;

collars, in which the lower collar is one-piece with a shelf, and the upper one is one-piece with selections;

collars, in which the lower collar is detachable, and the upper is one-piece cut with selections.

One-piece stand-up collar. In its manufacture, the shelf and back are processed, integrally cut with an upper collar. In addition, undercut facings of the neck of the shelf and the neck of the back are used. In a product with a one-piece stand-up collar and a fastener in the front, when processing the stand-up collar, the undercut facing of the neck of the back and two details of the undercut facing of the neck of the shelf, one-piece cut with underboard, are used.

The processing of a one-piece stand-up collar begins with the formation of a shelf and a back in the neck area. For a good fit and a beautiful fit of the one-piece collar to the neck, the shelf and back are pulled along the sections in the areas shown in fig. 2.24, a. At the same time, the middle section of the back and partially the shoulder sections are straightened. At a high height of the rack, the upper cut of the collar is pulled back on the shelf and back in the area located at a distance of 50 ... 70 mm from shoulder cut. The degree of retraction depends on the properties of the material and the presence or absence of a tuck. The degree of retraction is reduced with a movable structure of the material, and also if a tuck is designed on the neck line.

After molding, the neck tucks are grinded on the back and shelf (Fig. 2.24, b, line 1), if they are included in the model. Stitched darts are ironed towards the middle of the parts. If the tuck solution does not exceed 7 ... 10 mm, and the material of the product has good molding properties, the darts are replaced by suture. Before this, the tuck solution is placed on the edge, securing it with hand stitches along the neck line. Excess material along the neck is sewn from the wrong side. After stitching, the neck line is fixed with a glue edge from the inside of the part or, if the model allows, with machine stitching.

Overcast (line 2), and then grind (line 3) shoulder sections of the front and back, while connecting the sections of a one-piece collar. Seam width 10 mm. The stitching seam allowances are ironed out.

The undercut facings of the neck of the shelf and the neck of the back are duplicated with adhesive or reinforced with a non-adhesive gasket. The facings of the neck of the shelf, integrally cut with a selection, duplicates over the entire surface of the parts. Then the shoulder sections of the facings are grinded with a seam 5 ... 7 mm wide (line 4), stitching seam allowances are ironed out. The inner cut of the facing or the inner cut of the facing and the edges are overcast (line 5), edged over or stitched with a hem seam with an open cut.

The front side of the prepared facing is folded with the front side of the collar, the sections and shoulder seams of the facing and the one-piece collar are combined and turned with a seam 5 ... 7 mm wide (line 6). In a product with a fastener in front, along with turning a one-piece collar, cuts of the sides are turned. Turning seam allowances are tuned (line 7) for turning with a seam 1 ... 2 mm wide. This stitch is not performed if there is a finishing stitch along the top edge of the collar. The inner edge of the facing is fixed on the allowances of the shoulder seams and on the darts with hand or machine stitches. The inner edge of the facing can be stitched to the shelf and back, if such a line is provided by the model.

Similarly, the collar of the product is processed, in which the shelf is cut in one piece with the collar, and the back without a collar.

Collar, in which the lower collar is integrally cut with a shelf, and the upper collar is with picks. The processing of this collar begins with duplicating the details of the collar (Fig. 2.24, in). In rigid collars, the selection is duplicated along with the upper collar. If the collar is soft, then the selection is duplicated only up to the inflection line of the lapel. The lower collar on the shelf can be duplicated from the inflection line of the lapel. The collar may be without padding. The inner cut of the selection is overcast (line 1 ). On the selection, in addition to the inner cut, it is necessary to overcast the shoulder cut.

The upper collar, one-piece cut with pick-ups, is cut out with a seam in the middle of the collar in order to save material when laying out, and also so that the side cuts of the part are located in the direction of the warp thread. Therefore, the upper collar, one-piece cut with pick-ups, is ground in the middle with a seam 5 ... 7 mm wide, folding the parts with the right side inward (line 2 ). The stitching seam allowances are ironed out.

The shelves, one-piece cut with the lower collar, are folded with their front sides, the middle sections of the lower collar are combined and grinded down (line 3). Seam width 5 ... 7 mm. The seam allowances are ironed out.

The shelves and the back are folded with the right side inward, the shoulder sections are combined and they are sewn with a seam 10 mm wide (line 4). The line is laid from the side of the shelves, starting from the armhole. The ends of the lines are fixed. On the shelves, the shoulder seam allowance is cut to the end of the line in the corners of the parts. Combine the cuts of the neck of the back and the lower collar. The lower collar is sewn into the neck of the back with a seam 10 mm wide (line 5). The line is laid from the side of the lower collar. The allowances of the shoulder seams are overcast (line 6) and ironed out, the seam allowances of stitching the lower collar into the neck of the back are ironed towards the collar.

Rice. 2.24. Processing of one-piece collars

The product is folded with the pick-ups with the front sides inward, the sections of the sides and departures of the upper and lower collars are combined. The sides and the lower collar are turned with picks and the upper collar with a seam 5 ... 7 mm wide (line 7). The line is laid from the side of the product. Turning seam allowances are adjusted in the area of ​​​​the sides on the selection (line 8), on the collar section - on the lower collar (line 9). The collar and sides are turned to the front side, straightened and ironed, forming an edging from the upper collar on the collar section and an edging from the shelves on the sides. If, according to the model, a finishing line is provided along the edge of the sides and collar, then it is laid from the side of the upper collar in the collar section and from the side of the shelves in the side section. Turning seam allowances in such cases are not adjusted.

The allowance of the upper collar along the neck line is notched at the shoulder seams by 7 ... 8 mm, folded inward and stitched between the shoulder seams (line 10), closing the seam stitching in the lower collar. Stitching seam width 1... 3 mm.

Collar, one-piece cut with pick-ups, with a detachable lower collar. Its processing is carried out in the following sequence (Fig. 2.24, d). Overcast the inner and shoulder sections of the rebounds (line 1). Stitch and iron the middle sections of the upper collar (line 2). Grind off the shoulder sections of the shelves and back (line 3). The stitching seam allowances are overcast (line 4) and unwind. Then the front side of the lower collar is folded with the front side of the product, the neck sections are combined and sewn into the neck of the product with a seam 10 mm wide (line 5). The seam allowances for sewing in the lower collar in the area of ​​the shelves are ironed out, and in the area of ​​the back they are ironed towards the lower collar. The stitching seam allowances are notched if necessary, the excess allowances are cut out. Further processing of the collar-board assembly is completed in the manner described above.

The one-piece collar consists of two parts. The lower part of one-piece collars is cut out together with the shelf, and the upper part with the selection (in the selections, an extension is allowed 2.5-3 cm below the upper loop). In form, one-piece collars, like set-in collars, can be with a larger or smaller stand, close to the neck or lagging behind.

The drawings are also built on the patterns of the front of the bodice. The exception is a one-piece stand-up collar, the drawing of which is performed on the patterns of the back and front of the bodice.

1.One-piece stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

Back. Circle the main pattern of the back. The highest point of the sprout is denoted by the letter P, the bottom - R 1 . The line of the middle of the back continues up 3-4 cm (stand height) and put a point BUT:R 1 BUT= 3-4 cm

from point R up vertically lay the height of the stand on the shoulder - it is equal to the height of the stand in the middle of the back minus 1 cm; put an end to R 2 :

RR 2 = R 1 BUT- 1 = (3-4) - 1 = 2-3 cm

from point R 2 to the left horizontally and from the point R 1 cm are laid up vertically. Both points of 1 cm are connected by a smooth curve, continuing it to the shoulder cut.

Before. Circle the main pattern of the front with moved to the side cut shoulder tuck. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter AT, lower - AT 1 . Shoulder cut line from point AT continue to the right to the height of the rack and indicate AT 2 :

BB 2 = 2-3 cm

From a point AT 2 up at a right angle to the extended line of the shoulder, a segment is drawn equal to 1/2 of the height of the rack; put an end to AT 3 .

AT 2 AT 3 = (BB 2: 2) = (2-3) : 2 = 1-1.5cm

point AT 3 connect with a smooth curve to a point AT. The height of the stand in the middle of the front is equal to its height along the shoulder section or is determined by the model. The upper cut of the collar can be brought to the depth of the neck - the point AT 1 , and if in front with a clasp - decorated to the edge of the side. Control points are marked at the highest points of the sprout and neck.

2. One-piece stand-up collar lagging behind the neck.
Back. On a sheet of paper, outline the main pattern of the back. The highest point of the sprout is denoted by the letter R, lower - R 1 . Expand the sprout by 1-3 cm (point R 2):

RR 2=1-3 cm

The middle line continues upwards by 6-8 cm (stand height) and put a point BUT:

R 1 BUT= 6-8 cm

from point R 2 up vertically lay the height of the stand on the shoulder, equal to its height in the middle minus 1 cm; put an end to BUT 1 :

R 2 BUT 1 = (R 1 BUT- 1) = (6-8) - 1 = 5-7 cm

points BUT 1 and BUT connect with a smooth concave curve. If the back is with a seam, the stand line is continued to the left by 0.5 cm and the 0.5 cm point is connected under the ruler with the point R 1 .

from point BUT 1 lay to the left 0.5 cm from the point R 2 up vertically - 1 cm. Connecting the points 0.5 cm and 1 cm with a smooth concave curve, draw a line side cut racks. Control point - at the point R 2

At half the length of the new sprout line, a tuck is made. Its solution is 1 cm, the length up and down from the sprout line corresponds to the height of the rack 6-8 cm.

Before. Outline the main pattern of the front. The highest point of the neck is indicated by a dot AT, lower AT 1 . If there is a fastener, they give it to the middle of the front when starting on a half-skid with a width of 2.5-3 cm (point AT 2 ). Expand the neck by 1-3 cm (point AT 3):

BB 3=1-3 cm

from point AT 3 up vertically, a segment is drawn equal to the height of the backrest at the shoulder seam; put an end to AT 4:

AT 3 AT 4 = R 2 BUT 1=5-7cm

from point AT 4 lay 2 cm to the right horizontally, put a dot AT 5:

AT 4 B 5 = 2 cm

From point B 2 up along the extended line, the edges of the half-skid lay a segment equal to the height of the rack plus 1 cm; put an end to AT 6:

AT 2 AT 6 = (AT 3 AT 4 + 1) = (5-7) + 1 = 6-8 cm

from point AT 6 2 cm are laid to the right horizontally (point B 7):

AT 6 AT 7=2 cm

They decorate the upper and side sections of the collar, connecting the points with smooth concave curves AT 5 and AT 7 ,AT 5 and AT 3 . points AT 7 and AT 2 are connected under the ruler. Control point - at the point AT 3 .

The tucks are made for 1/3 of the length of the new neck line (excluding the half-skid). Its solution is 1-1.5 cm, the length up and down from the neckline corresponds to the height of the rack 6-8 cm.

3. Stand-up collar.

AT, lower - AT 1 .

Collar line. from point AT 1 lay 15-20 cm along the line of the middle of the front and mark the position of the upper loop. A point 15-20 cm is connected to a point AT under the ruler and continue the line up beyond the shoulder cut.

The line of stitching into the sprout. AT up lay a segment equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 cm, and put a point BUT:

AB\u003d POsh: 3 + 1 \u003d 18: 3 + 1 \u003d 7 cm

From a point BUT restore to the left the perpendicular on which they lay 1.5 cm (for more high rack- 2-3 cm). Points 1.5 cm and B are connected by a slightly convex curve. Its length is compared with the length of the sprout and, if necessary, the line is continued upwards.

Medium cut. From a point BUT the perpendicular is restored to the right, on which 8 cm are laid; put an end to BUT 1:

AA 1=8 cm

point BUT 1 cross with a line parallel to the line of inclination of the collar. On it from the point BUT 1 up lay 2 cm. Points 2 cm and BUT connected by an auxiliary line.

from point BUT along the auxiliary line lay 6-14 cm and put a dot BUT 2 .

The entire width of the collar - a segment from the point 1.5 cm to the point BUT 2 is divided into 3 parts and the left division point is connected to the refined line of stitching into the sprout.

The take-off cut is drawn up with a line perpendicular to the line of the middle cut (it can be straight or concave - in style). The size and configuration of the departure will be specified on the figure. To do this, the pattern is cut out with allowances of 3-5 cm for the departure cuts. The lower part of the collar is also cut out on the fabric with an allowance for refining the size and configuration of the departure. The upper collar with a selection is cut out after fitting, when the configuration and size of the lower collar are clarified.

Allowance for half skid (2.5 cm) is set aside from the upper loop - points 15-20 cm.

When building shawl collar the construction begins with the connection of the point of the beginning of the lapel of the side with the upper point of the shoulder cut and the neck.

This line is continued to the length of the neck of the back. To obtain collars with varying degrees of fit to the neck, the deviation of the stitching line from the straight line at the top point can be 1-4 cm towards the shoulder cut.

Having set the required value for the deviation of the smooth curve, draw a line for stitching the collar into the neck of the back. In the area corresponding to the back of the product, this line runs almost parallel to the line of sewing into the neck, then a smooth, evenly curved curve is brought to the beginning of the lapel lapel. The line of the middle of the collar is built on a perpendicular from the extreme point of the collar stitching to the stitching line. On the middle line, mark the desired collar width.

On the basis of this collar, by changing the configuration of the flight, you can get many options for one-piece collars.

4. Flat-lying one-piece collar.

Trace the front pattern on a piece of paper. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter AT.

Collar line. The position point of the upper loop is connected under the ruler with a point AT and continue the line up over the shoulder cut.

The line of stitching into the sprout. On the line of inclination of the collar from the point AT up lay a segment equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck, and put a point BUT:

AB= POsh :3=18:3=6cm

From a point BUT restore the perpendicular to the left.

The backrest pattern is applied to the contour of the front so that the highest point of the germ coincides with the highest point of the neck, and the lowest point of the germ is on the line drawn from the point BUT. Circle the sprout and the middle of the back.

Medium cut. From the sprout along the line of the middle of the back, lay 7-14 cm - the width of the collar at the back.

flyaway cut arrange in style. The configuration and size of the departure are specified in the same way as when constructing a one-piece stand-up collar.

When constructing patterns for jacket-type collars on a base pattern, determine the position of the rake line, i.e., the line of stitching the collar into the neck on the turn-down part of the bead. The position of this line is determined by the fashion and desire of the author of the product. The upper part of this line runs along the neck of the shelf, and then is drawn simultaneously with the line of the ledge of the lapel. Having outlined the lapel, depending on the position of its ledge, the lines of the ledge and the departure of the collar are drawn. The collar pattern is cut off from the shelf pattern along the rake line.

If set-in collars of this type must have a deep, curved neck, the neckline is drawn on a pattern of a smooth curve from the point where the lapel lapel starts (or the collar is sewn in) to the upper point of the shoulder cut and neck. The deviation of this line from the straight line connecting the points is usually 1-2 cm. The collar stitching line is built symmetrically with a straight line, and its deepening is also 1-2 cm.

Options for fancy collars for an open neck.

The design of a stand-up collar, one-piece with a bodice, is very often used when modeling jackets and elegant dresses. The height of the collar, as well as its configuration along the shelf, may vary depending on the style of the product. In this tutorial, we'll show you how to make a pattern for a low, one-piece stand-up collar.

Low stand-up collar, one-piece with bodice

To model the collar, use the pattern of the back and shelves of the product. If you don't have ready basic pattern, you can build it to your measurements using simple instructions or download finished pattern in life size 5 sizes for free on our website

collar modeling

IMPORTANT! Use for modeling the collar only ready-made patterns of the back and shelves, according to which you plan to cut the product.

Set aside 0.5 cm along the midline of the back from the neckline (point A), set aside 1 cm along the shoulder seam (point B). change). draw one-piece rack along the back as shown in the drawing (Fig. 1), draw the upper edge of the collar slightly concave. Smoothly connect the segment B1B with the line of the shoulder.

More interesting and fashion ideas you will find on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati School of Sewing. Subscribe to free sewing school lessons and sew fashionable clothes together with us!