Have you decided to sew a dress, but don't know where to start? Let's try to help. We will not argue that this is a very simple matter, but not so difficult! Our tips will definitely help you deal with it. After all, it is not the Gods who burn the pots. So, let's begin.

HOW TO SEW A DRESS: WHERE TO START.

Model selection. For the first time, choose a simple dress model. Less connecting and decorative seams, details. Stop your eyes on concise things. Beauty is in simplicity. Don't forget bright and stylish accessories, they will complement the image.

Choice of fabric. The fabric must match the purpose of the dress and be careful! easy to work. That is, do not cause additional difficulties in the processing of seams, ironing. Textured dressing, pile fabrics, chiffon, natural silk... they are all very beautiful, but they will create a lot of unnecessary problems with the risk of throwing a failed masterpiece into the far corner. Let, for the first time, it will be without a pattern that requires alignment at the seams.

Butt. It refers to all the additional materials that are required to sew your dress. These are glue (non-woven fabric, doubler), edge, zippers (for the first time, we advise you to choose models, preferably without it, because not every beginner can beautifully and correctly process a zipper, and even more so a secret one. Well , or practice on an unnecessary piece of fabric.), lining, accessories, threads, etc.

Pattern. How to sew a dress without a pattern? For a beginner, the task is difficult. Even if the dress consists of a rectangle, it is not some kind of abstract rectangle. It is tied to a specific figure with the help of measurements, and to the model of the dress - by proportions and details. Therefore, a pattern is still needed!

Simple dress patterns:

For these simple dresses, the pattern is based on a rectangle, and is based on measurements taken from the figure. The dress is quite voluminous, oversize, the sizes shown in the figure correspond to 42-50 rubles.

See what original dress! Here, the fabric print comes to the fore. The pattern of the dress is extremely simple. There is a rule of good taste - the brighter, more decorative the material, the simpler the style should be.

For lovers of a non-trivial approach to creating clothes, this solution will be interesting. The dress is a tunic made of rectangles sewn together. This simple dress looks very stylish if it is made of thin suede, or suede-like material.

READY PATTERNS OF DRESSES.

If you have a ready-made dress pattern, then consider that you have already done half the battle. good pattern increases your chances of getting a new thing at times! We have on the site clear patterns dress patterns easy to sew for beginners and for those who have experience in tailoring.

Pay attention not only to the photo of the dress, but also to the technical drawing. It will help you more clearly understand how you can use the finished pattern, adapting it to your image. It's no secret that dresses sewn according to the same pattern, but from different fabrics, look different.

For example, this is an absolutely wonderful dress.

In the photo - a model in a dress with bare shoulders from Fendi. Fendi is a world famous Italian brand founded in 1925. It is considered the epitome of taste and style. The brand's clothing is popular on the catwalks, in everyday life and on the set. At different times, the company's designers developed costumes for such famous films as "La Traviata", "Once Upon a Time in America", " Godfather"and many others. We offer to sew a similar patier and try on the image from Fendi!

You can buy a ready-made off-the-shoulder dress pattern here. You can print it in life size on a regular printer. Available sizes for the pattern are from 40 to 52.

Sewing a dress according to a finished pattern and, moreover, with a detailed description of the technology will not cause much difficulty even for a beginner. Here the main thing is accuracy, accuracy and attentiveness. The result will not disappoint you, because this model is very relevant not only in summer, it can be sewn from elegant fabric, getting a wonderful evening dress.

The difficulty level of this model is also suitable for a beginner.

Cut details:
From base material:

1. Before - 1 detail
2. Backrest - 1 piece
3. Lower back - 1 piece
4. The lower part of the front - 1 piece
5. Sleeve - 2 parts
6. Ruffle the bottom of the sleeve - 2 parts
7. Burlap pocket - 4 parts
8. Neck frill - 1 piece

Layout example:


You will also need about 2.0-2.5 m of elastic band (gum).

Sewing sequence:

1. Fold the details of the back with a shelf front sides inside and equalizing the cuts, grind along the side seams. Overcast the allowances and iron them towards the front detail.

2. Also grind side cuts sleeves. Iron the allowances and overcast.

3. Fold the sleeves with the front and back along the armhole lines. Pre-sweep and then grind. Cut allowances to 1 cm and overcast.

4. Stitch the details of the frills of the bottom of the sleeves and the neck into a ring, iron the allowances once. Details for ironing in half.

5. “Put” the finished part of the neck frill on the neck of the dress and stitch the cuts together with a 1.5 cm seam (Fig. 1, line 1). Overcast the allowances together and iron on the frill detail. Then stitch the allowance on the frill part, retreating from the seam 1.2 cm (Fig. 1, line 2). Between the line and the seam, you get a drawstring for an elastic band. Do not close the line in the ring, leave a distance of 2.5 - 3 cm long to thread the elastic.

6. Measure the girth of the shoulders (for each individually), subtract 4-5 cm for the stretch of the elastic band. Pass it into the drawstring and close the line into a ring.

7. On the sleeves, sew a frill according to the principle of the neck.

Picture 1

8. On the front side of the front panel and the front side of the part of the back panel, the details of the pocket burlap are placed face down, the cuts are equalized and stitched with a 1 cm wide seam (Fig. 2, lines 1 and 1`) so that the pocket lining overlaps the line limiting the length of the entrance to the pocket, to the width of the seam for sewing the burlap of the pocket. The seams are overcast and ironed onto the pocket burlap.

Figure 2

The lower section of the skirt is treated with a narrow (0.7 - 1.2 cm) hem seam. Iron the seam.

9. Fold the shelf and back details with the front sides inward, equalizing the sections, and connect along the shoulder seams.

10. Stitch the side seams of the skirt with a seam 1.5 cm wide, while sewing the pocket burlap with fasteners at the beginning and end of the pocket (Fig. 2, line 2). Slices are overcast, the pocket is ironed.

11. Stitch the bodice with the skirt (Fig. 3, line 1). Cut the allowance to 1 cm, overcast.

12. Cut off the elastic, measuring the circumference of the waist. Sew into the ring with an overlay seam 1.5-2 cm. Sew on the seam margin (figure 3, line 2).

Figure 3

Knitted dress with drapery is surprisingly easy to sew and looks very stylish. Here it is necessary not to miscalculate with the choice of fabric. Let the knitwear not be too liquid, but, nevertheless, softly drape and good quality so that pellets do not form when worn (there must be natural threads at the base).

2 IN 1: PATTERN FOR DRESS AND TOP WITH SWING NECK (SIZE 40-60)

Dress cut details (A) and top (B):

Shelf - 1 piece
Back - 1 piece (with a fold)

When cutting, add seam allowances of 0.7 cm, along the neckline and armholes - 1.2 cm, along the bottom line - 2 cm.

The average consumption of fabric is 1.5 m for a dress, 0.85 m for a top (with a width of 140 cm).

An example layout for a dress is shown on the left, for a top - on the right.

Sewing sequence:

1. Lay on a shelf along side seam double lines between the control signs A and B, C and D, E and F (for the top - only between the signs E and F) at a distance of 0.5 cm from each other, the first line - along the allowances of the side seam, and the second - along the shelf , so that they are located on both sides of the line of the side seam of the finished product. Pull these lines with threads to the lengths indicated on the pattern, tie the ends of the threads.
*** If desired, you can arrange small folds instead of assembly along the side seam

2. Lay on the shelf along the shoulder seams double lines from the neckline to the G marks at a distance of 0.5 cm from each other, the first line along the shoulder seam allowances, and the second along the shelf, so that they are located on both sides of the line of the shoulder finished seam. Pull these lines with threads to a length equal to the length of the shoulder sections of the back between the G marks and the neck, tie the ends of the threads.
*** If desired, you can arrange small folds instead of gathering along the shoulder seam

3. Combine the shelf and back along the shoulder seams, folding them with the right sides. Connect with a stitching-overcasting seam (or simply sew on a machine, and then overcast). Stitching is done from the back. Remove the auxiliary lines that tightened the assembly. Press the seam allowance over the back.

4. Process the armholes of the product. To do this, bend the seam allowances in the armhole area (between the control marks), and then process the seam to the hem with an open or closed cut (in the first case, pre-overcast).

5. Fold the shelf and backrest right sides, matching along the left side seam (without gathers). Sweep, and then connect with a seaming-overcasting seam (or sew on a machine, then overcast). Iron the seam allowance.

6. Fold the shelf and back with the front sides, combining along the right side seam (with gathers), observing the alignment of the control signs on the shelf and back. Sweep, and then connect with a seaming-overcasting seam (or sew on a machine, then overcast). The line is performed from the back. Gathering must be at the bottom, as otherwise the foot may move the fabric when sewing, which may cause the uniformity of the gathering to be disturbed. Remove the auxiliary lines that tightened the assembly. Iron the seam allowance.

7. Bend the cutout of the product and process it with a hem seam with a closed cut.

8. Bend the bottom of the product and process it with a hem seam with an open or closed cut (in the first case, pre-overcast).

HOW TO SEW A DRESS WITHOUT A READY PATTERN.

Making a pattern for him is not difficult even for a beginner. Let's take a closer look.

For modeling, you will need a pattern-base of a semi-adjacent silhouette. You can create it by any method of constructing patterns. Of course, this will take you a lot of time, but if you plan to continue sewing for yourself, then you need such a foundation, you simply cannot do without it. By the way, it is also recommended to sew off a base sampler from an unnecessary piece of fabric, after trying it on, take into account all the errors in the construction by adjusting the base pattern.

Modeling is shown based on a semi-adjacent silhouette specifically to preserve the chest tuck.

- side seams need to be straightened,

- we transfer the chest recess from the shoulder line to the side seam line, under the armhole. To do this, cut along the marked line from the side seam to the top of the undercut, not reaching a couple of mm, close the undercut in the shoulder and it will open under the armhole. Read more about transferring undercuts here. It is necessary to build up the undercut, not reaching the center of the chest by 2 cm, reducing it to nothing. Those. shorten the length of the undercut by 2 cm.

If the figure allows you to make a dress with a more flattened silhouette, then you can use the base pattern of a straight silhouette, then modeling is not needed at all.

Sewing this dress is not difficult, but finishing will take time and perseverance. Braid a la Chanel, which gives a special chic to the image, can be made with your own hands. Look at the photo. The work is certainly painstaking, but creative. And what is the result!

By the way, having a base pattern, you can also sew yourself basic dress, which, as you know, is necessary in the wardrobe of any woman. By slightly changing the neckline or armhole, making the dress cut off at the waist, adding a sleeve, you will get a model to your liking.

Now let's change the pattern a little. For example, we will draw relief lines, deepen and expand the neck, as in the first photo.

1 step. Let's translate the chest and shoulder recesses into the armhole. To do this, let's outline the relief lines going from the armhole lines, through the waist recesses to the bottom of the dress. Cut and open the undercuts in the armholes of the back and front. Read more about the translation of undercuts in this article.

2 step. Let's adjust the relief lines more smoothly. Lengthen and narrow the dress along the side seams. Let's add a slot. Slot width 4 cm.

A pear-shaped figure is very feminine, but sometimes it brings some difficulties to the owner when choosing a finished dress due to the difference in the girths of the hips and chest. You shouldn't get upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neckline, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrasting inserts that run along the dress and visually model the figure, as well as a little high waist, heels and matching tights will make you slimmer. We try to avoid decor in the hips, patch pockets, draperies, transverse stripes and large prints.

photo from the site, http://www.chieflady.com/

For an example of modeling, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on a pattern-based adjoining silhouette. The style is interesting in that the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate the female figure of just the lower type in the best and most advantageous way. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help to visually hide the width of the hips, and the white silhouette, expanding upwards, will bring to the fore the built silhouette. But, here you can’t be too smart with excessive narrowing of the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to expand the skirt a little to the bottom.

photo from http://www.stylishwife.com/

Modeling. On the details of the back and front pattern, draw model lines of reliefs passing from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through waist darts, on the back, transfer part of the solution to middle line backrest, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest tuck in the armhole, read more about transferring the darts. It remains only to outline the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the circumferences of the waist and hips is large and the solutions of the tucks for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the tuck must be divided into two, otherwise finished product there will be ugly creases in the waist area.

In the second version of modeling, we propose to expand the skirt to the bottom, make it the so-called A-shaped silhouette, you can also make the dress cut off at the waist.

MODELING OF A DRESS FOR THE "INVERTED TRIANGLE" BODY TYPE

Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. The whole decor, bright prints - down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, here raglan sleeves will help us, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a dress with a shoulder strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear curvy wide skirts, skirts or trousers with a peplum, dresses of a straight cut, but not too voluminous and wide, with vertical seams or trim.

photo from sites http://refinedstylefashion.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/pin/454089574910263523/ http://stylowi.pl/

As an example, let's analyze the modeling of a simple dress pattern suitable for a given type of figurus. It features a fitted, sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut off along the waistline, on the front panel of the skirt there are two opposite folds, on the back panel of the skirt a cut is made.

photo from the site http://snowqueen.ru/

Let's start modeling by applying the basic pattern of the adjacent silhouette of embossed lines to the details of the back and shelves (if you want a better fit or knitted fabric is chosen, you can use the base pattern of the adjacent silhouette). Thallium tucks on the front panel of the skirt will be pleated - cut the skirt part from the end of the tucks vertically down, push the parts apart so that in the upper part we get a gap of approximately 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom, the volume of the skirt will be kept in its original form.

MODELING OF A DRESS FOR THE "HOURGLASS" BODY TYPE

figure type" hourglass"- the most feminine, it is he who is rightfully considered a role model and we try to bring our figure closer to him, at least with the help of clothes. Lucky women with a physique of this type. Main advice- focus on the waist, so you will further emphasize your femininity and sexuality. Necklines, bows, pencil skirts, stilettos - this is your win-win look.

photo from sites http://www.asos.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/NatalieYoung29/

Let's model such a simple dress, in two versions.

photo taken from websites

The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very effective. For modeling, we need a pattern for the base of the adjacent silhouette and a sleeve pattern. The dress is detachable along the waist line, the skirt is expanded to the bottom. Darts for fitting the chest are transferred to the neck: in the first version - darts from the neck are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version - darts on the chest are distributed into folds coming from the neck, there are no sleeves.

Modeling. Step 1 - on the details of the back, the tuck for the roundness of the shoulder can be neglected, because. the neckline of the back is deep enough and widened, but the amount of the opening must be taken from the length of the shoulder so as not to upset the balance. For the convenience of modeling, we will translate the tuck on the shelf into an armhole. Cut the details of the skirt pattern lengthwise from the darts down.

Next, step 2 of the simulation. Let's outline a new neckline according to the sketch. We will transfer the thallium tuck on the shelf to the neck, and we will also transfer the tuck from the armhole there. Read more about the translation of tucks. When designing a detachable adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the shelf detail must be lowered by 1 cm around the waist, this will give a better fit and prevent it from pulling up when finished. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern, obtained after cutting the details of the skirt, so that the darts open to the bottom. We will correct the side sections and the bottom of the product.

Sleeve modeling. A pattern for the base of the sleeve can be taken on our website. First, shorten the length to the required. With the help of vertical cuts going from the edge to the bottom of the part, and the subsequent separation of the parts of the pattern, design an oncoming fold.

In the second version of the dress, the tucks on the shelf are translated into folds coming from the neck. Modeling will be discussed below.

MODELING OF A DRESS FOR THE "OVAL" BODY TYPE (APPLE)

Oval shape (apple). In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter "o". strategy in right choice clothes will emphasize, accentuate the waist, this can be done by choosing a dress that expands slightly towards the bottom, as well as using belts, decorative inserts that make the waist visually narrower, the top of the dress should be slightly expanded, for example, use a V-shaped neckline, collars. Sheath dresses, wraps, low waist, dresses A-line silhouette suit you.

photo from sites http://yourmothershouldknow.tumblr.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/buyerselect/ https://ru.pinterest.com/nordstrom/ http://dresses-photo.ru/ http:/ /jenskie-hitrosti.ru/

Let's take this dress as an example. It is interesting because it has a contrasting decorative line running along the dress. Visually, this very stretches the silhouette and slims. In addition, the dress is loose at the waist and slightly expands towards the bottom, which is undoubtedly a plus for this type of figure. Clear cut lines and a choice of fabric that holds its shape create the right image and collect the figure as a whole. To model this model, we will use the basic pattern-base of the adjacent silhouette, for a better fit.

photo from the site

Female figure rectangle type. For modern models is the most typical. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, there are usually no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! That's where our modeling tips and patterns can come in handy!)) Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Marilyn Monroe or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself, that's what we are striving for.

photo from sites http://ouiliviamoraes.com/ http://my.goodhouse.com.

Modeling takes place on the basic pattern-basis of a dress with a straight silhouette, without tucks. To begin with, we will get rid of the tuck on the back, on the shelf we will complete the depth of the fold, setting aside a distance of 12-15 cm from the middle of the part. Please note that one counter fold is laid at the top of the dress, while at the bottom there are two of them - one-sided, the depths are laid towards the side seams. The lines of the side seams are designed in such a way that an oval silhouette is formed. This model should be long above the knee, otherwise there may be excessive narrowing at the bottom.

Well, our lesson has come to an end, we have learned how to create simple patterns dresses based on a basic pattern, such that beginners can handle modeling and tailoring, we talked about the types of figures. I think now you can please yourself with a new thing. Good luck and be creative!

A dress with a straight cut is an interesting narrow dress that clearly fits the girl's shape and emphasizes the necessary curves. This style perfectly adds femininity and tenderness to the image, creates an elegant and cute style. Every woman needs to have such a thing in her wardrobe, because it is versatile and perfect for both everyday walks and for solemn event. This dress has been considered one of the most popular types of clothing for more than a hundred years. The secret of such demand among designers, stylists and just lovers of looking good lies in the cut suitable for almost all body types. Cut out a long or Short dress a straight silhouette can be made using a ready-made pattern, which can be downloaded from the Internet for free - patterns of straight dresses are widely represented on the net.

Of course, you can buy a similar item of clothing in any store or on the Internet, but the dress will be more pleasant to wear if it is created by hand. In addition, it will help to increase the skill in such a matter and will make it possible to dilute the dress. original jewelry and decorations. The advantage is that you can create an absolutely unique and one of a kind thing.

This article will look at several ways to create a straight dress pattern easily and without difficulty. It is worth mentioning that such a process is not difficult even for beginner needlewomen, however, it requires huge amount patience and a lot of focus.

Pattern is what where to start working on any dress. To create a correct and competent pattern, cut the fabric correctly and not spoil the future dress, you need to take measurements from the figure and perform all the calculations. After that comes the process of building and designing. Parsing a pattern is not a difficult process, but it can take a lot of time, so you need to be prepared and have enough patience.

Measurements for building a simple pattern

To create a high-quality and competent drawing, and then qualitatively tailor a future product, you need to know the following measurements for the model:

Sometimes girls, especially those who have just started sewing, have questions about how to take measurements correctly. This is not a difficult matter - any magazine and articles for beginners have detailed description Togo, how to use terms correctly and decide on the size.

You can use the standard values ​​for sizes.

Dress pattern size 42

1. Neck girth - 35 cm.
2. Bust - 84 cm.
3. Waist - 64 cm.
4. Hip circumference - 90 cm.
5. Back width - 34.5 cm.
6. Back length - 41.5 cm.
7. Chest height - 26 cm.
8. Front length - 44 cm.
9. Sleeve height - 11 cm.
10. Shoulder width - 27 cm.
11. Skirt length - 60 cm.

Dress pattern size 46

Dress pattern size 52

1. Neck girth - 40 cm.
2. Bust - 104 cm.
3. Waist - 84 cm.
4. Hip circumference - 110 cm.
5. Back width - 39.5 cm.
6. Back length - 44.5 cm.
7. Chest height - 42 cm.
8. Front length - 49 cm.
9. Sleeve height - 12 cm.
10. Shoulder width - 32 cm.
11. Skirt length - 65 cm.

Dress pattern size 56

Amount of fabric consumed

• Increase to the chest - 4 cm.
• Increase to the waist - 3 cm.
• Increase to the hips - 2 cm.
• Increase to the width of the back - 0.5 cm.

Fabric for this type products are calculated for one expense with an increase in the length of the sleeve. If there are additional details and decorations, folds, collars, then you need to use additional fabric for this. In addition, the fabric can go to the circumference of the hips, so if it exceeds 120 cm, then you will have to buy more materials - double the amount of regular fabric and 10 cm just in case. To all other, don't forget that that the material for allowances and hem should be added to the total amount of fabric. It is often advised for beginners to select bright and patterned fabrics, since if there are sewing errors, this will help to hide the flaws.

The pattern requires the use of graph paper - this will help save time on drawing accurate lines. Of course, you can use any other type of paper for convenience, but millimetric paper allows you to immediately use natural sizes.

It is worth remembering that the construction dress patterns really important and demanding work, so before you start creating a product, you need to read the entire manual from beginning to end. Subsequently, it may turn out that this method is too complicated or not what it seemed in my head. There are too many recommendations on the Internet, and sometimes you just need to figure it out on your own in order to do everything efficiently the first time.

How to create the basis for a straight dress

When all measurements are taken, you can begin to create a pattern for the base of the dress. Usually the first step is to create a grid that will include all the necessary lines for the chest, waist, etc.

First of all, you need mark a point in the left corner of the paper - A. From it a line is drawn to the right with the size of half the measurement of the chest circumference with the addition of 4 centimeters for a loose fit. After that, you can create a waist line - from point A, a line is drawn down with a measure equal to the length of the back, taking into account one more centimeter.

The point located on the drawn segment of the waist is denoted by the letter P. From this point we draw another segment about 20 centimeters long and mark the letters K - this point will denote the hips. We draw another line from it, equal to the length of the skirt. You can call the segment T.

After that, it is necessary to draw a segment for the length of the chest - I. From the height of the armhole, add about 1 centimeter and add the segment AA1. Further from A1, a line is drawn down and several points are created on the resulting segment. Lines are drawn horizontally from them to the right and one more point is indicated at their intersection. Thus, the grid is already ready and you can proceed directly to the very pattern of the base of the dress.

It should be borne in mind that the pattern is made in full size, so if used plain paper or small size, gluing with adhesive tape may be necessary.

After the mesh has been created, you need to determine where the armholes are. To do this, you need to find the line that is responsible for the width of the back (II1) and add 1 centimeter to it. From the last point I1, you need to draw a segment up and put point A2.

After that, another segment is carried out from I1 to I3, which is equal to half the length of the “chest width” measurement, to which four more centimeters and a chest half-girth line are added. From point I3, you also need to draw a segment up and mark point A3.

Basic pattern for the back half of the dress

So, you need to draw a segment AA4, which will include half the length of the neck circumference with the addition of one centimeter. This segment must be divided into three parts and get a new value AA5. Worth remembering that this tuck procedure is optional if special types of fabric are used for the dress, which tend to stretch. They also include knitted fabrics.

After that, you need to draw an even arc from the point marked A4 - you can use a compass so that the radius is exactly equal to the length of the sleeve. As soon as the arc is made, you need to set the radius with the size of the height of the shoulder from the back, adding one centimeter. The leg must be placed at point P and make another arc. Two arcs will form a point, which must be designated as P1. From this point, you should draw a segment to the left to the line A2I2 and put the point A7.

From this point A7 you need to define a new point I5. To do this, we consider I2I5 = I2A7, which are divided into three parts and add two centimeters. After that, divide I2I3 in half and set one more point I4 in the center.

Usually, for to make it easier to build a pattern already downloading ready constructions on the Internet and check. This is a great way to insure yourself in case of wrong lines or calculations, but you also need to take into account the fact that patterns may differ visually due to different sizes and measurements.

Main front half pattern

Work on the base of the front half of the dress begins by determining the location of point A8. To do this, you can use the calculations, where I1A8 is the length of the front, to which one more centimeter is added. From the resulting point A8, you should draw the line A8A9, which should be equal to the length of AA4 and define another point - U. From point A8, you should draw the line A8A10, which should approximately equal 9 or 10 centimeters.

I1I8 is half the measurement of the circumference of the chest, that is, you need to determine the distance between the peaks of the mammary gland and divide these dimensions in half, given the addition of one centimeter. On this line you need to put a point I9. From this point I9, a vertical segment should be determined, which must be exactly parallel to the line A1T.

Using a compass and point A9, you can make an arc on this resulting vertical segment, where the radius of the compass must be exactly equal to chest height measurements. Point I9 is ​​put there. From this point, draw another line, which will be located in the direction of the segment AA1 and draw an arc with a radius = chest height measurements.

Next, a complex formula is used: you need to double the difference from the lower half-girth of the chest and the upper half-girth of the chest, adding two centimeters to the resulting product. The value derived from this formula will be equal to the radius of the arc from point A9 - the intersection of two arcs should be obtained (one of which is the one that was done before). Point A11 is placed at this intersection.

It is worth drawing another I3A12 line, which should be an exact reflection of the I2A7 line with a subtraction of one centimeter. Using a compass, you should draw an arc from I3, the radius of which is equal to the value of the line I3A12. After that, from the same point, you need to make another arc so that the line A11A13 appears. The radius should be the same as the arm length measurement. After that, point A13 is set.

The resulting segment I3A12 must be divided into three parts and a new point I10 must be indicated. From it you need to draw a segment to A13 and make a smooth armhole line.

It must be remembered that to create a straight dress with a 3/4 sleeve, you need to additionally sew all the parts.

Recommendations when creating a pattern for a straight dress

Now you can transfer the lines to separate special sheets, not necessarily to graph paper. It is worth paying attention that you need to leave a few centimeters for allowances for the finished pattern. It is advisable to cut on cheap materials - this will allow you to change the style if it came out unsuccessfully, correct minor flaws and roughly see how the future product will look like. After everything fittings will be held and you will like the resulting model, you can transfer the pattern to thick paper or film.

23:36 unknown 69 Comments

Hello dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes of complex styles, you will already need a pattern - paper template, along which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, then I will advise the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, building a pattern will help you quickly understand and master the principles of designing clothes. In addition, the pattern is built according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on the figure, ready-made patterns such a result is not guaranteed, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And finally, building a pattern is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress according to the method of Tatyana Roslyakova.
In the last article, we learned how to take the measurements that we need to make a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the drawing of structures is carried out only on half of the figure, therefore, measurements of volumes and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I wrote my measurements as an example. By these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.

distribution of gain along the chest line

• the size of the solution of the front tuck \u003d 0.25 of the total solution of the tucks (13.5 x 0.25 \u003d 3.4 cm),

• the size of the side tuck solution = 0.45 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),

• the size of the back tuck solution = 0.3 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.3 \u003d 4.1 cm)

Hello my dear! Now an endless world of dress models will open before you, because when you make your own perfect base pattern, shot according to your measurements - you can build absolutely any dress that your fantasy tells you. And you will have to work a little only once - now.

So don't let the large number of letters and numbers in the drawing scare you, in fact make a base pattern will be a feasible task for you, because I will tell you about it in simple terms.

What will the building consist of?

We will draw half of the back and half of the front of the dress.

But first we need to decide what silhouette of the dress we want. Silhouettes are:

• tight fitting
• Adjoined
• semi-adjacent
• Straight

For example, I will build a pattern for you in size 46.

Dress length=85cm

For a snug fit, I'll take the following raises:

I wrote more about supplements above.

Don't let this drawing scare you, we will make it in parts and in four stages:

• let's build a grid
• upper back
• top front
• bottom of the dress from the waist with darts

Building a GRID

For your drawing, take better graph paper. She's the most comfortable. Instead of my initial data, substitute in the calculations their measurements taken , and it will be VERY EASY for you to build a drawing this way.

Set point A.

1. AH down = hem line level = product length = 85 cm
2. AT down \u003d waist line level \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 42.9 + 1 \u003d 43.9
3. AG down \u003d armhole line level \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 21.3 + 2.5 \u003d 23.8
4. TB down = hip line level = Dlb = 20 (this is the standard)

For a better fit in the back area and for vertical side seams, you need to make a withdrawal of the middle line of the back, for this we draw a horizontal line from the T point. On it we postpone TT "to the right = 1.5 cm (this is the standard). Draw a straight line through point T and point A. Now all calculations will be made from points G, T. Mark them on your drawing.

We draw horizontal lines from all points.

Now we determine the width of the grid = Г»Г1 = Сг3 + Пг = 46 + 3 = 49

We make a kind of frame for the drawing (grid). On the right side we put points A1, G1, T1, B1, H1.

We set aside the back width \u003d Г»Г2 to the right \u003d Ws + 0.2 × Pg \u003d 17.7 + 0.2 × 3 \u003d 18.3

Set aside the width of the front \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg + 0.5 (Cr2-Cr1) \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 + 0.5 (48.2-44.2) \u003d 19.1

We check the width of the armhole on the drawing:

• armhole width G2G3 \u003d W mesh - W back - W front \u003d 49 - 18.3 - 19.1 \u003d 11.6

Divide G2G3 in half = position of the side seam = draw a vertical down from the point G4.

Back construction

1. AU Down = level of the bottom of the shoulder blades \u003d 0.4 × Dts \u003d 0.4 × 42.9 \u003d 17.2 We set aside from point A down and at a right angle to the outlet.
2. AA2 right = back neck width \u003d 1/3 Ssh + Pshgs \u003d 18.3 / 3 + 1 \u003d 7.1
3. A2A21 down = back neck depth \u003d 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs \u003d 7.1 / 3 + 0.2 \u003d 2.6

Shoulder slope: is found using two radii (R):

• R1 \u003d A2P1 \u003d Shp + shoulder tuck(1.5 cm - standard) + shoulder extension = 13.2 +1.5 +0.5 = 15.2 (we put the compass at point A2 and make an arc at a distance of 15.2, as in the figure below)

• (R2) \u003d T "P1 \u003d Vpks + Pdts \u003d 42.9 +1 \u003d 43.9 (we put the compass at point T "and set aside an arc of 43.9 cm; the point of intersection of two arcs is P1)

We are building shoulder tuck on the slope of the shoulder:

from point A2 to the right we set aside 4 cm (this is a constant value). We draw a vertical from it down - this is the left side of the tuck. Set aside from point 4 to the right along the shoulder line 1.5 cm (undercut). And draw the right side of the tuck, equalize both sides of the tuck.

If you sew the tuck as a tuck without modeling, then the length of the tuck is 10-12 cm. If the tuck is transferred to the side of the chest, we make the tuck to the line of the shoulder blades. (marked in blue in the figure)

Now to build sleeve entry lines , additional points are needed:

• from point P1 we draw a perpendicular to the line of the width of the back. We put a cross.
• We divide the distance from this cross to the chest line into 3 equal parts. We add 2 cm to the bottom 1/3 (this is a constant value) - this is the P3 point.
• Bisector from point Г2 = 0.2×Г2Г3 + 0.5 = 0.2×11.6 + 0.5 = 2.8

We draw a line of entry into the sleeve under the pattern.

Building the front

To begin with, we make a decrease along the waistline:

• 0.5 cm for size 40-42
• 0.7 -1 cm for size 44-48
• 1.2-2 for 50-56 size
• over 2 - over size 56

We take a decrease of 1 cm.

• T1 T11 down we postpone this decrease of 1 cm
• Now we do the same decrease along the bottom line: H1H11 down 1 cm.
• T11 A11 up \u003d position of the upper point of the neck of the front \u003d Dtp \u003d Pdtp \u003d 44.1 + 1.3 \u003d 45.4

In order for the dress to fit well in the chest area (not puffed up) - you need to make a fit (semi-skid).

• A11 A12 left 1cm (standard). Connect point A12 with G1.

• A12 A3 left = front neck width = AA2 (calculated from backrest drawing) = 7.1
• A12 A4 Down = Front Throat Depth = A12A3 + 1 (Constant) = 7.1 + 1 = 8.1

Building BREAST DRAW .

• D1D5 left = position of the center line of the chest = Cg + 0.5 (constant value) = 9.9 +0.5 = 10.4

Through the point G5 we draw a vertical with a dotted line.

• Radius A3G6 to the center line of the chest = Br + 0.5 × Pdtp = 26.2 + 0.5 × 1.3 = 26.9. We connect A3 and G6 with a straight line.

• Radius A3 A5 = solution chest tuck\u003d 2 × (Cr2 - Cr1) \u003d 2 × (48.2 - 44.2) \u003d 8. We put the compass in A3 and draw an arc.
• Radius G6 A5 = A3G6 = 26.9. We connect points A5 and G6.

Shoulder slope:

is also found using 2 radii.

• Radius A5 P5 \u003d A2 P1 - shoulder tuck \u003d 15.2 - 1.5 \u003d 13.7
• Radius G6 P5 \u003d Vpkp + 0.5 × Pdtp \u003d 23 + 0.5 × 1.3 \u003d 23.7

Connect points P5 and A5.

Check: point P1 must be higher than point P5. If point P5 is higher, you need to cut off a piece of the shoulder from the front and add it to the back). Horizontal alignment is allowed.

We are building sleeve entry line .

Additional points:

• Point P6 - horizontal from the lower 1/3 of the back (see figure below)
• Bisector from point Г3 = 0.2 × Г2Г3 = 0.2 × 11.6 = 2.3

Now we need to check front width at point P6:

• W transmission \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 \u003d 17.1

To do this, set aside from point P6 the perpendicular to the tuck line (see dotted line in the figure below).

On the other side of the tuck at the same level, we draw a horizontal line with a dotted line. Measure the length of both dotted lines = 16cm (in my drawing).

And the width should be 17.1 cm. The missing value is set aside on the horizontal from point P6. We put new point P6.

We draw with the help of the pattern the line of entry into the pocket.

Hip Width

Equalize the segments G»G4 = B»B21

Calculate the difference between your hip width and chest width:

Difference \u003d (Sb + Pb) - G "G1 \u003d (50 + 1.5) - 49 \u003d 2.5.

That is, the lack along the line of the hips \u003d 2.5 cm. So you need to expand the half of the front and half of the back, 1.25 cm each:

• from point B2 to the left 1.25 cm = expand in front
• from point B21 to the right 1.25 cm = expand the back

Draw vertical lines from these new points.

We build darts at the waist

First you need to calculate the difference between T»T1 and your waist width (based on measurements).

• Difference \u003d T "T1 - (St + Fri) \u003d 48.5 - (35 + 1.5) \u003d 12

We distribute this difference between 4 tucks:

1. in the middle seam 1.5
2. in the side 4.5
3. back tuck 3.5
4. front tuck 2.5

• in the middle seam 1.5 cm (see the figure below: from point T "to the right 1.5 cm. We draw straight lines from point 1.5 to the level of the line of the shoulder blades and point B")

• Side seam 4.5 cm (see the figure below: set aside from point T2 by 2.25 to the right and left, connect with point G4 and points 1.25 on the hip line)

Back tuck - 3.5 cm. (see the figure below: we divide the distance between the tuck of the middle seam and the side tuck on the back in half, from this point we set aside half of the tuck - 1.75 - to the right and left. We draw the center line parallel to branch. From the level of the shoulder blades we lower the angle of the tuck by 5 cm down, from the level of the hips we set aside 2 cm upwards and draw the lower side of the tuck)

Front tuck: 2.5 cm (see the figure below: on the center line of the center of the chest, lay off half of the tuck - 1.25 cm - from point G6 lower the angle of the tuck by 3 cm, connect the lower side to the hip line)

We draw a bottom line along the front (under the pattern) and back (equalizing the sides, at right angles, as in the drawing of the backrest below)

Congratulations! If you have read up to this point, then perhaps you already have a YOUR pattern base , or you already at least understood how it is done. But this is the first step towards a series of future beautiful dresses! In the next article I will tell you how to translate a breast tuck so that it is invisible on the product. See you on the blog pages and Sew With Me!

Here is a very interesting option building a base pattern on fabric: