31. And they took Joseph's garment, and slaughtered the goat, and stained the garment with blood; 32. And they sent clothes of many colors, and brought them to their father, and said, We have found this; see if this is your son's clothes or not. 33. He recognized her and said: This is my son's clothes; the beast of prey ate him; right,

15. Sportswear "Clothes for play" attacks

15. Sportswear "Playwear" attacks Tracksuit, swimwear, hoodie… Disappear, yoga pants! Everywhere in America you can find women in yoga pants and men in tracksuits, and they don't have to be

Malkina Ekaterina Ivanovna, art critic, teacher of art history at MBOU DO "Kuznetsk Children's Art School".

The national costume is an integral part of the material culture of any nation. This is not just an object of applied art or a beautiful thing that serves the aesthetic needs of a person. Of course, the national costume is designed to personify, among other things, the ideas of beauty among a particular ethnic group, meet its tastes, habits and lifestyle. However, an equally important task national costume is an expression of the individuality and originality of the culture of not only a certain people, but also a region or even a locality. In other words, the costume is able to emphasize the "dissimilarity" various peoples or ethnic groups within one people, to indicate their identity, but at the same time to indicate the relationship of cultures of several peoples, their mutual influence and interpenetration.

Very interesting in this regard is the costume complex of the Terek-Grebensky Cossacks, common in the villages of the Kizlyar-Grebensky and Gorsko-Mozdok regiments. The specifics of the life, material and military culture of the Cossacks is determined, on the one hand, by long-term residence in the neighborhood of the Caucasian peoples and the borrowing of some elements of their culture: the wearing of Circassian coats by men, the art of horse riding, the use of weapons by mountain masters, etc. On the other hand, despite the proximity of the Cossacks to the Caucasian highlanders, the influence of the latter was by no means reflected in all aspects of their lives. The folk culture of the Terts and Grebentsy has retained a number of original features. An example of this would be: wedding ceremony, traditions of celebrating calendar dates, song culture, as well as a complex of female Cossack costume.

The problem of the originality of the Terek-Greben women's costume is especially relevant today. In the wake of the popularization of the Cossack culture and the increased interest of society in the Cossacks, the ranks of song and dance groups are rapidly replenished with ensembles that position themselves as "Cossack". Numerous diasporas and ethnic communities appear on the territories of the historical residence of the Cossacks, consisting of descendants, including the Terek-Greben Cossacks. Both environments are the only ones today where it is possible to find the use of national clothes. In this regard, the leaders of folklore groups, costume designers and master reenactors have a colossal responsibility: depending on their activities, the costume will either be forgotten or will acquire new life in modern world. Unfortunately, the established opinion that the Cossacks, having come to the Caucasus, completely adopted the culture of the highlanders, is often decisive in the work on the women's Terek-Greben costume.

Fig.1. Grebenskaya Cossack costume. North Caucasus, Terek region 19th century St. Petersburg.

In this regard, it seems to me essential to carry out comparative analysis clothes of the Terek-Grebensky Cossacks and clothes of the mountain women, and the identification of their main similarities and differences. Within the framework of the article, samples of clothing of the late 19th-early 20th centuries, most often imitated by folklore groups today, will be considered.

1. To start a conversation about the Terek-Grebensk and Caucasian women's costume should be from the cut of the dress of the mountain women and the beshmet of the Cossacks. Until the middle of the 19th century, and in festive clothes and much later, for tailoring women's Caucasian dresses, the cut of a man's Circassian coat was used. In some nations, such as, for example, among the Karachays, both the dress and the Circassian coat were even called the same word - “chepken”. The beshmets of the Cossacks were no exception in this sense - they were also cut according to the Circassian principle. The difference between the clothes of the Cossacks and the mountain women was the cut of the skirt. On Terek-Grebensky beshmets and jerseys, skirts were sewn with a smell and had triangular inserts at the edges that formed folds (Fig. 1). The skirts of mountain dresses were either sewn “butt to joint” or diverged, forming cuts through which the shirt and caftan skirts were visible (Fig. 2).

Starting from the second half of the 19th century, when inexpensive and light factory fabrics began to be imported to the Caucasus in large quantities, women got the opportunity to experiment with cuts and introduce a little variety into traditional styles. So, in the photographs of mountain women of the second half of the 19th-early 20th centuries. you can see dresses that are open at the waist and closed dresses with wedge skirts, gathered skirts, skirts with an insert from the waist to the hem, etc. As for the cut of the Cossack beshmets and jerseys of this period (late 19th-early 20th centuries), it remains unchanged, resembling the cut of a male Circassian coat.

1. In the costume of the Terek-Grebensky Cossacks, there are no false spade-shaped sleeves that were used in the clothes of Adyghe women, Ossetians, Abaza women and Karachay-Balkar women (Fig. 3, Fig. 4). Their presence was justified, firstly, by the norms of Caucasian etiquette and the need to cover a woman's hands during ritual dances and mass festivities. Secondly, “richly embroidered sleeve pendants, often the most elegant element of clothing, served as a kind of evidence of the wealth and nobility of their owner,” a commoner could afford to wear spade-shaped cavities on her sleeves only in holidays, noblewoman or princess - much more often. In both cases, this detail of clothing indicated "idleness, the opportunity not to work: short-term - for the majority (wedding, holiday) or permanent for the upper classes".

As for the women of the Eastern Caucasus, namely the Chechens, Ingush and Kumyks, then in the photographs of the late XIX-early XX centuries. very often there are sleeves cut from the elbow or shoulder, forming a kind of “wings” on the dress (Fig. 5). A sleeve of this type is not uncommon among Ossetian women adjacent to Vainashki. The split sleeve kept its relevance among the Ingush for a very long time, up to the first third of the 20th century, which is confirmed by photographs of Ingush brides of this period. Today, sleeves of this type are very actively used in the tailoring of costumes for the Terek Cossack communities and ensembles, which fundamentally contradicts the traditional cut of the Terek-Greben women's costume.

The sleeves of the beshmets of the Grebensky Cossacks in more early period were either narrow with lapels (this type of sleeve was more common in an earlier period), or smoothly expanded from the shoulder to the hand. Sometimes the edge of a wide sleeve was made beveled, as in Fig. 1. The sleeves of sweatshirts were narrow, but short, above the elbow (Fig. 6).

This is confirmed by numerous photographs of the Grebensky Cossacks, watercolor images of the Cossacks G. Gagarin and E. Lansere (Fig. 7, Fig. 8), as well as ethnographic descriptions of the Terek-Grebenskaya women's clothing: “combs are worn: a caftan (it is also called a beshmet), a sweatshirt, which differs from the beshmet in that its sleeves are made only to the elbow, while the beshmet has sleeves long to the brush, with lapels.” In the village of Borozdinskaya, according to the description of E. Butova, the Cossack costume complex consists of a shirt with wide sleeves, a skirt, an undershirt (“a skirt with a bodice and a triangular neckline on the chest, the sleeves of an undershirt are only slightly longer than the elbow”), an apron, a shower jacket and a beshmet or sweatshirt , where “the caftan (or beshmet) is long, with many gatherings at the belt and with long sleeves; jersey - the same as a caftan, but with sleeves up to the elbows. Beshmets were also worn over skirts and shirts with wide sleeves in the village of Naurskaya. As a decoration for their shirts, the Cossacks used lace, which was sheathed on the edges of the sleeves: “From under the wide sleeves of the beshmet came out even wider sleeves with lace trimming of the undershirt.” An example of the use of lace in decorating a shirt sleeve is also a photograph of a Grebensky Cossack woman in the village of Chervlenaya, 1870-80. (Fig. 9).

1. One of the key differences between the costume of the Terek-Grebensk Cossacks and the costumes of North Caucasian women is headdresses. Typologically, the headdresses of mountain women can be conditionally divided into three groups: a) hats of various types and styles worn by women, mainly in the Western Caucasus; b) scarves and shawls, which are distributed throughout the Caucasus; c) chukhta - the main type of headdress among the representatives of the peoples of Dagestan.

High hats with a rounded top were worn by noble Adyghe, Karachay-Balkarian and Abaza women; hats in the form of a truncated cone were worn by Ossetians and partly Ingush; low hats with a flat bottom were common among Adyghe women (Fig. 10, 11). Scarves and shawls were worn everywhere in the Caucasus. There were no hats in the national costume of the Chechens and Kumyks during the period we are considering, and the representatives of these peoples wore exclusively scarves and shawls, tying them in various ways (Fig. 12).

As for the chuhta, the main headdress of Dagestan women, in general terms, it was the following: “... covered the head, tightly covering the upper part of the forehead and, as a rule, hung down from the back of the head (along the back) in the form of in some cases to the waist, in others - to the hem of the dress ”(Fig. 13).

The headdress of married Terek-Grebensky Cossacks in its appearance and structure has nothing to do with the items of clothing described above. It is rather similar to kichkas and magpies - complex, compound headdresses for women in the South Russian provinces. So, married Cossack women wore a very intricate dress, consisting of: a bodice (“a kind of pretzel stuffed with cotton”), which was worn over a hairdo of two braids; a shirt (“something like a ochipka”), worn over a brace; a small scarf-straight, which, in turn, was worn over a shirt; wide scarf - the top large scarf that completes this complex and rather interesting design (Fig. 14, 15). This kind of dress was worn by every married Cossack woman over a hairstyle of two braids superimposed on each other and gathered at the crown of the head. Cossack girls braided one braid and wore a banner with a fly, the girls even walked with their heads uncovered.

1. In the costume of the Terek-Grebensky Cossacks, there was no complex structured ornament, in contrast to the clothes of Caucasian women. Serpentine, floral and geometric motifs, symmetrically located on certain parts of the Caucasian costume, played not only a decorative, but also a sacred role, performing the function of a talisman. As materials for decorating the Goryanka dress, they used: galloons, sewing with gold and silver, sewn-on metal jewelry, braid, and at the beginning of the 20th century, lace. The system of arrangement of the embroidered ornament on the dress was as follows: on the sides of the cut of the skirt from the waist to the bottom of the hem, on the sides of the cutout of the dress on the bodice, along the edge or bottom of the sleeve, on spade-shaped blades. The embroidered ornament was also widely used in the decoration of hats among Circassian, Ingush and Ossetian women (Fig. 16).

The costume of the Terek-Grebensky Cossacks, unlike the Caucasian or, for example, South Russian, did not have an ornament in the strict sense of the word. The ornaments of the Cossack costume could be a pattern on the fabric or a braided cord, which, as a rule, was sheathed with expensive beshmets sewn from velvet or satin. On the example of the costume of the Grebensky Cossack woman from photograph No. 17, we see that the edges of the wrap and the hem of the beshmet skirt, the edges of the beveled sleeve and the cutout on the bodice are sheathed with galloon cord. There is no ornament as such, except for small flowers symmetrically located at the edge of the neckline on the bodice and along the edges of the sleeves, one flower on each sleeve.

Minimalism in ornamentation does not spoil the Terek-Grebensk costume, does not make it boring, nondescript, etc. Cossack women, famous for their panache, skillfully complemented their laconic clothes with jewelry. “The beshmet was girded with a silver belt, and silver coins were strung on a chain on the chest,” writes P.A. Vostrikov about the jewelry of fashionistas in the village of Naurskaya. More detailed list jewelry, which existed among the Grebensky Cossacks, is cited by A.A. Rzhevussky: “Fawn amber, large and small, as well as coral and other beads with silver coins soldered to them, are hung around the neck; they also wear ancient silver chains with a large eight-pointed cross. Earrings are also worn in the ears, also old, large, silver with niello, as well as newer, European work.

1. In continuation of the conversation about the features of the Terek-Greben women's costume and its differences from the clothes of the mountain women, it should be mentioned that on the Terek, the Cossacks did not wear trousers. Unlike Caucasian women, Tatars, Kalmyks, Turkish women and Cossacks of the lower Don. A.I. Runovsky mentions this in his “Notes on Shamil”, where he assesses the appearance of Chechen women and Cossack women, and compares their clothes: “Cossack women do not wear shalwar, which, however, does not spoil their costume at all” .

The absence of this seemingly insignificant item of clothing in the costume of the Terek-Grebensk Cossacks attracts attention. Indeed, in the vast territories, including the Crimea, Transcaucasia, the North Caucasus and the Don, representatives of all the peoples living there wore trousers according to the Turkish-Tatar fashion, and only the Cossacks of the Terek are an exception in this respect.

1. In the traditional Terek-Grebensk costume, there were no chest fasteners, which today are so often imitated in the costumes of song and dance Cossack groups and members of the Terek Cossack communities and diasporas. Metal clasps in the Caucasian costume "went from the actual clasps to their imitation - decorations." Initially, they were fastened on a caftan, which was worn under the upper dress. Rows of horizontal fasteners were visible in the neckline of the dress on the chest. Later (in the middle of the 19th century), the caftan was transformed into a bib without a back and sleeves, and the clasps began to play an exclusively decorative role.

The fasteners or “Asian loops” of the Terek-Grebensky Cossacks were sewn along the edge of the side of the beshmet on a velvet or morocco base and sheathed with galloon. Fastener loops were located just above the waist, sometimes they were sewn on both edges of the beshmet cutout as an ornament (Fig. 18,19,20). Terek-Grebensky fasteners are much shorter than mountain fasteners. In photographs of combs of the late XIX - early XX centuries. the most common are small horizontal fasteners, which can also be seen on photographs of Chechen women of this period (Fig. 21). G. Gagarin's watercolors depict fasteners, probably of an earlier form - in the form of a "cucumber" (see Fig. 7).

As decorations, the Cossack women wore beads of amber and coral of various sizes, silver chains with eight-pointed crosses or strung coins, “a beshmet was girded with a silver belt”, and in their ears they wore earrings “old, large, silver with black, as well as a newer, European work". The wearing of Caucasian silver belts by the Cossacks is one of the few components that makes the costume of the Grebensky mamuk related to the clothes of the mountain women.

Thus, summing up the results of this comparative analysis, we came to the conclusion that the costume of the Terek-Grebensky Cossacks is a unique subject of applied art in the North Caucasus region. The problem of its existence today requires a very serious in-depth study and significant rethinking. Masters in tailoring national Cossack clothes also need basic knowledge in the field of costume of the Caucasian highlanders: Circassians, Abazins, Karachay-Balkarians, Ossetians, Vainakhs (Chechens and Ingush), peoples of Dagestan.

The creation of an ethnographically accurately tailored costume is not possible without a detailed study of museum originals, pictorial sources in the form of photographs and graphics of the 19th-20th centuries, as well as written sources in the form of scientific monographs on the history of the costume of the Caucasian region and descriptions in pre-revolutionary publications. Otherwise, traditional clothes Terek and Grebensky Cossacks are threatened with disappearance into oblivion, complete oblivion and absolutely undeserved displacement by low-quality and incorrect from an ethnographic point of view clothing samples.

SMOPMK: Village of Naurskaya, Terek region, P.A. Vostrikov, 1904.

A.A. Rzhevussky. Terek Cossack army, 1888.

The national clothes of the Cossacks, like those of other peoples, were created from primitive forms, by developing them on the basis of expediency, traditions and local artistic tastes.

Cossack old clothes are very ancient. The costume of the Cossacks took shape over the centuries, long before the steppes began to be called Cossacks. First of all, this refers to the invention of the Scythians - pants, without which the life of a nomad horseman is impossible. Over the centuries, their cut has not changed: these are wide trousers - you can’t sit on a horse in tight pants, and they will wash your legs and fetter the rider’s movements. So those bloomers that were found in ancient barrows were the same as those worn by the Cossacks in both the 18th and 18th centuries. XIX centuries. Shirts were of two types - Russian and beshmet. The Russian was tucked into bloomers, beshmet was worn loose. They were sewn from canvas or silk. The steppes generally preferred silk to other fabrics - the louse does not live on silk. From above - cloth, and on the body - silk. In winter, they wore unsheathed short fur coats, which were worn with wool over their naked bodies - this is how the peoples of the North wear kukhlyanka.

From the friction of the wool on the body, an electric field arises - it is warmer, and if a person sweats, the sweat will wipe off the wool, it will not be absorbed into the clothes and will not turn into ice.

But the Cossack valued clothing most of all not for its cost and not even for the convenience that the Cossack “right” was famous for, but for the inner spiritual meaning that every stitch, every detail of the Cossack costume was filled with. According to the beliefs of the ancients, clothes are the second skin, so the native Cossacks never wore someone else's clothes without performing cleansing rites on them, and even more so clothes from the dead. Putting on "foreign veils" meant entering the "will" of the giver and losing one's own.

Rewarding the Cossacks, the chieftains gave them material "on the right", but never gave the chieftain's caftan. The clothes sewn by the mother or wife were most valued. The first baptismal shirt was sewn and given by the godmother, she was worn once, kept unwashed all her life along with strands of the first hair, buried with the deceased, or, if the Cossack died far from home, was burned along with the things that he touched.

The Cossacks freely treated originality in clothing and considered it as one of the essential signs of their independence. In 1705, the chieftain of the Zimoveyskaya village of the former embassy, ​​Savva Kochet, conveyed gratitude to Peter I on behalf of the entire army: “We are exacted by your grace more than all subjects, your decree on dress and beards did not touch us. We wear a dress according to our ancient custom, which someone will like. One is put on by a Circassian, the other by a Kalmyk, the other in a Russian dress of an old cut, and we do not make any complaints or ridicule to each other. Nobody wears a German dress, we have no desire for it at all. The Cossacks loved clothes of bright picturesque colors, which the Cossacks brought from campaigns. V. Sukhorukov wrote about the Cossacks returning from a campaign: “One appeared in an azure satin caftan with pure silver stripes and a pearl necklace, the other in a damask or velvet semi-caftan without sleeves and in a dark carnation zipun, trimmed with a blue border, a silk clove-colored stripe; the third is in a damask or velvet caftan with golden Turkish buttons and silver clasps... Everyone has silk Turkish sashes and is wearing damask knives with fish-tooth handles in black scabbards trimmed with silver, red or yellow morocco boots and a kunya hat with a velvet top. Many dressed in rich Turkish, Circassian, Kalmyk dresses, decorated with weapons set with Asian luxury in silver and gold under black.

At the end of the 17th - by the beginning of the 18th century, a traditional type of men's Cossack clothing developed, according to descriptions and old sketches, the main parts of the men's national clothes of the Cossacks were:

1. wide trousers on uchkur;

2. beshmet to the knees or shorter with a closed chest, with one-piece front floors, right over the left, with a soft collar and hook-and-loop fasteners in the middle of the chest, with the back at the waist - edged and with two or three pairs of folds from the waist down, with free sleeves;

3. cloth upper caftan, by the name "chekmen" - on the Don, "kerei" - among the Zaporozhians, embroidered in the same way as a beshmet, but with an open chest, with a narrow shawl collar or collar trimmed with wide braid. The sleeves are wide, seized by cuffs, often folding with a back elbow slit; Zaporizhzhya kerya had the same wide, but short sleeves, above the elbow, i.e., similar to those according to Konstantin Porphyrogenitus in the 10th century. were at Torkov-Uz;

4. Cossacks and their ancestors always wore cylindrical fur hats of various heights on their heads, in the old days with a wedge-shaped cuff.

All clothes can be divided into service, military and home.

The service uniform of the Don Cossacks consisted of a uniform or chekmen of blue cloth, with red piping, fastened with hooks, and trousers, also blue cloth with red stripes, a cap and hat with a red top and a military blue overcoat.

Home clothing resembled military clothing, but it was single-breasted and differed in material. Chekmeni Circassian or nanke. Bloomers without stripes, white canvas shirts, and trousers. A military cap was worn in everyday life.

Of the footwear, postols (pistons) were originally in common use. It was common among the ancient Slavs and among many of their neighbors. Pistons served as work shoes and were of two varieties:

1) An older form - from one piece of leather, gathered around the leg with a strap or rope threaded through the slot. They were made from a single piece of oval-shaped leather, on one side of which (where the toe should pass) an obtuse angle was cut out. Around the entire piece, holes were punched along the edge, into which a strap was threaded, coming out with the ends from the side of the heel. The edges of the obtuse angle were sewn together, forming the nose of the piston, and the edges of the skin were pulled together around the leg with a strap.

2) From two pieces of leather, the pistons could also be sewn on top.

The pistons were homemade. It was very easy to sew them on. In an oval piece of rawhide, a corner was cut out, the edges of which were sewn together. Thus, a sock was obtained. Holes were punched along the edges of the postol, into which a strap was threaded, which ended in the direction of the heel, and the strap was pulled together on the leg.

Chiriks were considered festive shoes - galoshes with a smooth sole and a cutout at the top, which were worn over ichig, or over thick combed socks, into which harem pants were tucked on woolen stockings or carpets, both by Cossacks and Cossacks. (Among the Cossacks, it was widely believed that stockings made of sheep's wool protect against the bite of tarantulas, which are afraid of the smell of sheep, because sheep eat tarantulas. Therefore, the Cossacks willingly walked in woolen stockings in the summer).

There were a great many boots - without boots, riding is impossible, and you can’t walk barefoot on the dry steppe.

Special love was enjoyed by soft boots without heels or also with a small heel with ties under the knee and around the ankle. - ichigi.

Sometimes Tatar embroidered ichigi were worn, very soft colored ones made of morocco, the elderly especially loved them, they wore them with galoshes or postols, and, taking off their shoes, they did not have to take off the ichig.

They also wore "boots" - leather shoes with straps, so named because they were made of calfskin (Turkic shoe - calf).

In the riding villages in the summer they wear shoes made of coarse leather with thick soles, sometimes sewn on in addition in several layers, and always woolen stockings of their own manufacture.

And also as shoes, the Cossacks used chevyak and p ostholes (pistons).

Chevyaki (chuvyaki) - low leather or morocco shoes without a hard back; borrowed by the Cossacks from the Caucasians. Chevyaks were also called shoes made of rough cowhide ankle-high or slightly higher, with or without a small heel.

From outerwear Cossacks have long preferred arkhaluk (Turk, arch - back, Turk. Lyk - warm) - "spinogrey" - a cross between a quilted Tatar robe and a caftan. In addition, a hoodie was worn over a sheepskin coat in winter and in bad weather - a raincoat with a hood made of sheep or camel wool. Water rolled over it, very coldy it did not burst like leather things. In the Caucasus, the cloak was replaced by a cloak, and the hood has long existed as an independent headdress - a cap.

Beshmet - a split shirt, with a butt-hook fastener

Shirts: Ukrainian and Russian blouses with embroidery. Worn under a uniform. They were considered underwear, "spin", in which "it is indecent to appear in public"

Shirts: Ukrainian and Russian blouses with embroidery. Worn under a uniform. They were considered underwear, "spin", in which it is "indecent to appear in public"

In 1864, the Russian academician Stephanie noticed that the Cossack beshmets were similar to the Scythian caftans in everything. Clothing of this type, long chekmen, with the name "Cossack" Josaphat Barbaro saw in Azov and in Persia (XV century Journey to Tana and Persia). For the 18th century A. I. Rigelman describes Dontsov’s clothing as follows: “The dress is worn completely Tatar, brocade, damask or cloth, caftan and semi-caftan or beshmet and wide trousers, Circassian boots and hat, girded with a sash.” According to his drawings, in addition to boots, the Cossacks also wore light shoes - chiriki.

Caucasian Cossacks always wore the same costume as the mountain tribes, i.e. beshmet, cherkeska - a special kind of chekmen, wide trousers, nagovits - ichegs and chuvyaks, and a hat on a shaved head. The Circassian, although it differs from the Chekmen in the absence of cuffs on wide sleeves, bandoliers sewn on the chest and other small details, but at the core its cut is similar to the cut of the Chekmen and, of course, is to some extent connected with Scythian samples. The Cossack women's dress on the Terek is preserved from former times even now in some details: a beshmet dressed on a colored hood, a cap sewn with gold under a silk scarf, etc.

I. Krasnov notes: "in their customs, the riding Cossacks reveal strictness, sometimes turning into severity, moderation in food and clothing, sometimes brought to avarice." ... "... among the grassroots Cossacks there is neither simplicity of morals, nor patriarchy ... For a long time they were distinguished by their dapperness in clothes."

The costume of the grassroots Cossacks was striking in its unusualness. It was a bizarre mixture of Russian, Little Russian, Polish, Tatar, Kalmyk, Turkish, Circassian elements. The men's costume of the grassroots Cossacks included a Kalmyk-style shirt (with a straight cut into two floors), wide trousers that fit into boots, a zipun, a caftan, a hat, and a belt. "Wide trousers" (among the grassroots Cossacks).

When sewing clothes, the Cossacks used homespun hemp, linen, and a little later - woolen cloth along with purchased cotton, silk and, less often, woolen fabrics.

An obligatory element of the Cossack costume was a zipun, which was a swing outerwear without a collar. The zipun was such an indispensable element that the hunts for prey were called "zipun trips."

A zipun is a type of loose-fitting clothing with a semi-adjacent, widened to the bottom silhouette, with narrow sleeves, without a collar, worn over a shirt. It was considered such an important element of the costume that campaigns for military booty were often called "zipun campaigns." … The popularity of zipuns can be explained by their convenience, especially when riding, due to their small volumetric dimensions, as well as the relatively mild climatic conditions of the Don region.

The Cossacks also wore zipuns of their own work, they were trimmed with a "blue border with silk stripes."

A beshmet was put on top of the shirt and trousers. "For the most part, it was a caftan with an interception, sometimes cut off at the waist, but not with gathers, but with wedges. It was sewn from different fabrics, sometimes from silk oriental fabric, lined, often quilted with wadding."

Beshmet was worn without a fastener, yellow-orange. "He served as everyday and festive, including wedding, clothing."

Outerwear

Cossack stripes were of particular importance. It was believed that they were introduced for the first time by Platov, but stripes are also found on ancient Cossack clothes, and even on the clothes of the Polovtsy, and even earlier - the Scythians. So under Platov, the wearing of stripes was only legalized, but they existed before, marking the belonging of their owner to the free army.

The peculiarities of the life of the Cossacks were reflected in their clothes. A peculiar kind of Cossack clothing has evolved over the centuries. The fugitives came to the Cossack villages in their Russian clothes, and here they wore what the army gave. The appearance of clothes is recreated by old Cossack songs.

Rowers are sitting on the shavings - daring fellows,
Remote fellows - All-Don Cossacks.
They wear sable hats, velvet tops,
Variegated shirts with gold lace.
Astrakhan sashes are semi-shallow,
With combed stockings,
Yes, all horses.
Green morocco boots, crooked heels.

Cossack costume was the result of neighborhood with peoples North Caucasus. Ancient Cossack clothes are very ancient. The costume of the Cossacks took shape over the centuries, long before the steppes began to be called Cossacks. The ataman of the Don winter village Savva Kochet spoke about what the Cossacks wore in 1705 in the Ambassadorial Order: others have become accustomed to walking in Russians of the ancient custom in a dress, and whatever they want better, he does tacos. And then, as if warning Peter that Peter’s innovations would not take root among the Cossacks, he said: “And none of them wear Cossacks on the Don, and masters, that is, tailors who could make German clothes, Cossacks don’t live in their cities.”

Peter I realized that Cossack clothes and in general appearance- something more than fashion, and the shaving of beards and the introduction of the "German dress" among the Cossacks will not be bloodless. But, most likely, the tsar-reformer, in joint campaigns with the Cossacks, became convinced of how the Cossacks' clothes were adapted to combat life in the steppe.

Over the centuries, their cut has not changed: these are wide trousers - it is impossible to sit on a horse in tight trousers, and they will wash their legs and fetter the rider's movements. So those bloomers that were found in ancient mounds were the same as those worn by the Cossacks in both the 18th and 19th centuries. Shirts were of two types - Russian and beshmet. The Russian was tucked into bloomers, beshmet was worn loose. They were sewn from canvas or silk. The steppes generally preferred silk to other fabrics - the louse does not live on silk. From above - cloth, and on the body silk. In winter, they wore unsheathed short fur coats, which were worn with wool over their naked bodies - this is how the peoples of the North wear kukhlyanka.

Of the outerwear, the Cossacks have long preferred arkhaluk (Turk. arch - back, Turk. lyk - warm) - "spinogrey" - a cross between a quilted Tatar robe and a caftan. In addition, a hoodie was worn over a sheepskin coat in winter and in bad weather - a raincoat with a hood made of sheep or camel wool. Water rolled down on it, in severe frosts it did not burst like leather things. In the Caucasus, the cloak was replaced by a cloak, and the hood has long existed as an independent headdress - a cap.

There were a great many boots - without boots, riding is impossible, and you can’t walk barefoot on the dry steppe. Special love was enjoyed by soft boots without heels - ichini and "chiriki" - galoshes worn over ichig, into which trousers were tucked. They also wore "boots" - leather shoes with straps, so named because they were made of calfskin (Turkic shoe - calf).

But the Cossack most of all valued clothing not for its cost and not even for the convenience that the Cossack “right” was famous for, but for that inner spiritual world that filled every detail of the Cossack costume. According to the beliefs of the ancients, clothes are the second skin, so the native Cossacks never wore someone else's clothes without performing cleansing rites on them, and even more so clothes from the dead. To put on "alien covers" meant to enter "plenty" of the donor and lose his will. Therefore, the Cossack would never put on a "fur coat from the king's shoulder."

Rewarding the Cossacks, the chieftains gave them material "on the right", but never gave the chieftain's caftan. Cossack stripes were of particular importance. It was believed that they were introduced for the first time. Lampas are found on the Cossack clothes, on the clothes of the Polovtsy and even earlier - the Scythians. So under Platov, the wearing of stripes was only legalized, but they existed before, marking the belonging of their owner to the free army. It is no coincidence that the Cossacks were and are so proud of them.

Unlike all peoples and estates of the world, the Cossacks, who lived within the strict framework of the military estate, were required to wear a standard uniform. The smallest details: buttons on a uniform, an earring in an ear, a hood tied in a special way or a hat worn - for a Cossack they were an open book, a passport, by which he learned everything about an illegal colleague.

Cossack forelock is the same tradition as stripes and hats. So they are depicted in ancient frescoes. The same antiquity is also fanned by the Zaporizhzhya settler, probably borrowed by the Slavs from the Goths. Khokhol (khokh - ool) among the Altaians is still translated as "son of heaven." It is interesting that among the Persians (Iranians) the word "Cossack" is translated as "crest". The Don Cossacks explain the forelock on the left side of the cap in this way: on the right is an angel - there is order, on the left, the devil is twisting - that's the Cossack coming out. According to tradition, in Russia, the mustache was an integral part of the military uniform. By the way, in Patriotic War 1812 mustaches were worn by the guards.

The hat is a continuation of the head. Among the Cossacks, a hat or cap played a huge role in customs and symbolism. A hat with a colored top or a Cossack cap with a band symbolized full belonging to the stanitsa society. When returning from war or service, the Cossacks brought hats as a gift to the ancestral rivers, throwing them into the waves. A Cossack who married a widow brought the cap of the deceased Cossack to the Don or Kuban and let it float on the water. Icons and protective prayers written by a child's hand were sewn into the hat. For the lapel of the hat, the Cossacks put especially valuable papers and orders. There was no safer place - a Cossack could only lose his hat with his head.

Earrings (for men) meant the role and place of the Cossack in the family. So, the only son of his mother wore one earring in his left ear. The last child in the family, where there are no male heirs besides him, wore an earring in his right ear. Two earrings - the only child of the parents. The Cossacks traditionally followed own appearance. It proceeded, first of all, from the statutory requirements for neatness.

The Kuban Cossack army began to form at the end of the eighteenth century, it was based on the Cossacks and Donets. In the initial period of settlement of the region, the Black Sea people retained the clothes and weapons inherent in the Cossacks. Mounted Cossacks wore blue trousers, a blue kuntush, under which a red caftan was worn. In 1810, the uniform of the Black Sea Cossacks was approved: trousers and a coarse cloth jacket. Linear Cossacks wore Circassian clothes. At the beginning of 1840, a uniform uniform was established for the Black Sea Cossacks, following the example of the linear ones. This form became uniform for the Kuban Cossack army formed in 1860. The complex of men's clothing consisted of: a Circassian coat made of black factory cloth, dark-colored trousers, a beshmet, a hood, in winter - a cloak, hat, boots or leggings.

Shoes made of rough rawhide with sewn-on soles served as work shoes for all residents of the Kuban. Boots at the end of the 18th century were worn only by wealthy representatives of the Cossack elders.

The cut of the Circassian is entirely borrowed from the mountain peoples. They sewed it below the knee length, with a low neckline on the chest, which opened the beshmet; sleeves were made with wide cuffs. A lining for gazyrs was sewn on the chest; this served together with a Caucasian belt, often a silver nabob, decoration of the Circassian. The beauty and richness of the Cossack costume was to have more silver in it. Fur coats served as winter clothes for the Cossacks - casings, with a deep smell, with a small collar made of tanned white and black sheepskins and beshmets quilted on wadding.

main element men's suit there was a shirt with a straight slit collar and harem pants. The shirt reached almost to the knees, its sleeves were straight, a rectangular insert was sewn in under the armpits - a sweetheart. This type of shirt was known in Ukraine and spread throughout the Kuban. South Russian influence appeared in the clothes of the line Cossacks. It was a tunic-shaped shirt - a kosovorotka with a collar slit located on the left side of the chest, and with stand-up collar. In the Kuban, there were shirts with a straight cut collar. Men's shirts were decorated with embroidery along the bottom, along the edges of the sleeves, along the collar and on the chest. Breast embroidery was located in a narrow strip along the side slit, in the form of two more or less wide stripes on the sides of a straight slit. Festive men's shirt always decorated with embroidery, especially wedding.