These gentle, mysterious cracks... Why are they so loved by decoupage ladies? Probably, it was precisely for this mystery, for the feeling of romance and antiquity, for a reminder of those times when valor and honor were above all else, and the shining eyes and smiles of beautiful ladies inspired great deeds...

Two-step (or two-component) craquelure- This is probably the most common technique in decoupage. Moreover, the technique is very refined, compared with one-component craquelure or even artificial scuffs.

For those who are not yet very versed in all these related techniques, I will explain: two-step craquelure - these are cracks in the varnish layer on an already finished image.

Unlike one-component craquelure, where we use one composition(one component, one step) and get cracks in paint, a two-component craquelure composition, as the name implies, consists of two different jars, two components that are applied to work one after the other. Wherein the top compound is cracking, and so that the cracks are clearly visible, we show them with various grouts (which ones - read on).

Even for beginners: I recommend always clarifying what craquelure do you mean, two step or one step- this is of fundamental importance (a machine can also be a sewing, dishwasher or washing machine, and this is not the same thing :)

Where did craquelure come from?

For you and me, craquelure cracks are the "spirit of antiquity", romance, and for artists, especially artists of past centuries - process disruption: improper preparation of the base, incorrect selection of primers, paints and their application, storage or restoration of the canvas, improper storage and transportation conditions, which as a result leads to the formation of cracks in the picture in the varnish or paint layer.

Thus, cracks are not at all a mandatory attribute of an antique item or works of art. However, now everything related to antiquity is becoming more and more popular, and craquelure is no exception.

Exist great amount funds intended for imitation effects of antiquity; these include craquelure varnishes, so popular among decoupage makers (and not only decoupage makers).

Fundamentals of technology

Two-component craquelure is already almost completely finished work, with applied, painted and preferably varnished motif(or even carefully varnished work, if we have washable craquelure - otherwise the workpiece may “lead” from water).

The most-most general scheme for working with two-component craquelures

Attention! This scheme is not a direct guide for working with craquelure varnishes! This is just a general scheme, so that you can roughly imagine the procedure!

1. Completely decorate the work, varnish, dry.
2. We apply the first step of the craquelure composition (they are always signed, where 1 step, where 2).
3. Dry (most often not until completely dry, but a little underdrying).
4. We apply the second step, we are waiting for the formation of cracks.
5. We overwrite with a means for the manifestation of cracks.
6. We protect with a finishing varnish.

And now about the main thing.

There are a lot of craquelure compositions, more than 20 different types, and they all have different properties and give different cracks, therefore, each decoupage girl eventually chooses 1-2 favorite compositions for herself and uses them mainly.

Ingredients can be:

• water or non-aqueous,
• yellowing or non-yellowing,
• give large wide cracks, small wide cracks, large porcelain cracks or small porcelain cracks (and their variations),
• we can rub craquelure with solid pigments (pastel, metallic powders or dry shadows), bitumen, birum or water patinas, acrylics or even oil paints…
• we can wash off or not wash off the second step, cover the craquelure with water or non-water varnish, or even again with the first step ...

Your head is spinning, right?

I am often asked in emails: why didn't you get craquelure?» The answer to this question is impossible to give - it's like asking, "why the computer does not work." There can be 50 answers, from the answer “the south bridge on the motherboard burned down” to the elementary “no electricity”.
Why am I saying this? Moreover, all craquelure compositions are different and, without knowing which composition you are using, it is difficult to assume anything at all.

Therefore, once again: if you are working with a two-component craquelure, then the most serious and responsible business is choose the right craquelure composition and know all its properties.

There can be only one difference between a beautiful craquelure and a scaly nightmare: the finishing varnish)))

My favorite craquelure pairs are - this is a craquelure pair Maimeri 753-754(numbers are the last three digits of the articles), thread craquelure from Akrilanas or Ars-hobby and two-component craquelure from Rayher(at the same time, of course, I tried many other craquelures, and they did not please me).
The first two compositions give thin, elegant cracks, and Rayher gives a very beautiful relief (it was this craquelure that I used to imitate the old leather binding in, and the gentle Maimeri 753-754 to create cracks on the medallion).

Maimeri 753-754 and filament craquelure from Akrylanas are non-yellowing aqueous compositions, very easy to use. The first cell has less, the second has more, so I use Akrylanas to decorate large objects with rather large motifs.
By the way, keep in mind that in the Akrilanas (and Ars-hobby) line there are also so-called "large" and "small" craquelure. They are generally trouble-free, do not require rinsing, but their cracks are wider than those of thread craquelure, which already looks less elegant.

Application

Technology for creating cracks in Maimeri 753-754 and Akrilanas thread craquelures same: apply the first step and wait until it turns from milky white to transparent. He will also become very sticky so be careful not to leave fingerprints and dust))

After the first step becomes sticky, I apply second step on the entire surface covered by the first step. This must be done without leaving a single drop of uncovered space, otherwise after rubbing the craquelure there will be a dirty grout stain. Cracks form within 12 hours depending on the thickness of the second step layer.

Manifestation

I overwrite them (show cracks) most often metallic powders. They can be found in craft stores called " porporin"Or, for example," craquelure grout ", and the easiest way (and much cheaper) is in hardware stores: we are looking for metallic powders like silver (by the way, it can also be gold, and for imported manufacturers - in general any color). From my experience I can say that buying other metallic colors than gold or silver does not make sense, they will not be useful or will be useful in one case out of 20). Better stock up on dry pastels - matte cracks look much more noble. We rub the dry pastel with a knife into a fine powder and with this powder we show cracks on a cotton pad.

Flushing and protection

In general, these two compositions are very easy-to-use craquelure pairs, despite the fact that both of them need to wash off the second step after grouting (for Maimeri it is washed off without any problems under running water, for Akrilanas it is harder and longer, you need to adapt).

In principle, for many craquelures, the second step can be washed off, or you can not wash it off, only then you have to cover the cracks non-aqueous varnish. However, the durability of unwashed craquelure is an open question for me.

Cracks appear due to the fact that the first and second steps conflict with each other. And at the same time, they adhere rather loosely to each other, so it is possible that after a while the second step may begin to peel off if it is weakly varnished with a finishing non-aqueous varnish (ToDo Antik Crackle is especially susceptible to this, which, in fact, according to the instructions is not needs rinsing). Therefore, those craquelures that can be washed off, I prefer to wash off - then they can be covered with ordinary acrylic varnish.

How to choose a craquelure composition? And according to what criteria choose at all?

This question simply cannot be answered in one article. There are a lot of important factors here that can be divided into three groups - these are, of course, the properties of the composition, ease of use and the final result. The ideal craquelure is one that is ideal for this particular work and is not capricious from drafts and the position of Jupiter in the sky. We will talk about how to choose a craquelure composition very soon, but for now let's talk about one more important point that many decoupage artists often forget about.

Craquelure should look appropriate and harmonious at work!

Why do we even create cracks at work? To give the product spirit of old or show that we can make craquelure?

The first thing to do before using any craquelure is to think about whether it is needed here at all))) Where did it come from, what kind of material did you crack, etc. Is it cracked everywhere or just in a few places?

It is also very important that the resulting craquelure did not cover the motive(that is, so that the craquelure does not take all the attention and does not become dominant). In many works, the motive is simply not visible - only greasy cracks are visible, and even throughout the work (to be honest, my first works with craquelure were also like that).

Craquelure should, as it were, shade the motif, emphasize its beauty and antiquity, and not show that you have mastered the technique of creating craquelure.

Therefore, you must always understand what is the main thing for you at work - motive or craquelure. If craquelure - then the motive can not be done at all, it will still not be visible :) I generally prefer rub the craquelure just barely: let it be better seen less than more.

A harmonious combination of motif and craquelure (panel on the wall):

And one more important point. Imagine that your work is cracked from old age, and dust and dirt clogged in the cracks(yes, this is what is stuffed into the cracks on antiques, and not gold powder at all). Is this possible if it is clean-glossy-new, with a juicy and bright motif? Hardly :) So do not forget: craquelure is primarily an aging technique, and if we make cracks to give the work an old look, then it is better to use craquelure in combination with other artificial aging techniques, such as patination, gloss removal, as well as artificial yellowing and fading :)

Craquelure (from the French word "craquelure") is called cracks in a layer of paint or varnish on paintings. In modern design, artificial aging of the surface of interior items, which is also called "craquelure", has become very popular. Master classes on creating various products with a unique charm of antiquity are quite expensive. Knowing the basics of the technique of such decor, anyone can independently create unique interior items.

How can I get craquelure?

Master classes of novice interior designers most often use special varnishes to create “aged” things. They are called - craquelure. To emphasize and highlight the cracks formed on the surface of the object, ink or pastel is specially rubbed into the varnishes. A remarkable effect is given by compositions intended for patination.

The craquelure technique, despite all the new compositions, still cannot compete with natural cracks in works of art. That is why experts can easily distinguish the original of an antique item from a fake.

Tools and materials for applying craquelure

Almost any surface can be applied craquelure. Workshops on varnishing glass, wood, ceramics, metal or paper, despite some similarities, still have certain differences. That is why for each of these types of materials, the most appropriate technique for performing this design should be used.

To apply this decorative coating, you will need the following tools and special formulations:

Synthetic brush;

Hairdryer for drying the product;

Primer;

Acrylic paints (preferably in contrasting tones);

One-component craquelure and finishing varnish.

In the absence of expensive formulations, available improvised materials can be used: egg whites, table vinegar, washing gel, gelatin. There are several ways to apply to various surfaces. Below are the most popular ones.

Single phase craquelure

The most popular is one-step craquelure. Master classes on creating it simple cover, also called single-phase, are the most in demand. It is used to create a surface with spectacular contrasting cracks. To do this, you will need a one-component craquelure and acrylic finishing varnishes, a hair dryer.

A primer is applied to the thoroughly cleaned surface of the item (selected depending on the material from which the item is made). A hair dryer is used to speed up the drying process. Acrylic paint is applied to the dried primer. It is she who will be translucent in the resulting cracks. After it dries, apply evenly on top. craquelure varnish. At the same time, it must be remembered that the thicker its layer, the larger the cracks will eventually turn out. When the varnish dries a little and does not stick to the fingers (without losing its stickiness), the main (second) acrylic paint is applied to it. After about 10 minutes, cracks will begin to appear on the surface of the item.

The dried paint is carefully covered with a finishing varnish. This coating is called "one-step craquelure". Even a person who is far from design and art can repeat a decoration master class in this technique. This finishing method is great for decorating porcelain and wooden interior items, caskets, photo frames. By honing your skills in this technique, you can create unique products.

Decoupage. Craquelure (master class)

No less popular is another technique for applying such coatings, called decoupage. Its essence lies in the fact that various pictures cut from napkins are pasted onto a craquelure mesh of cracks. Some experts perform decoupage in reverse order. In this case, the craquelure is already applied to the pictures pasted on the surface of the object.

For work, the product itself is required, in two tones, PVA glue, cut and selected drawings, acrylic varnish, art brushes, hair dryer.

Stages of making craquelure using decoupage technique

Cleaning and degreasing the surface of an object with alcohol.

Applying a uniform layer of water-based paint to the surface with an art brush. Drying until completely dry.

Applying a layer of PVA glue to the surface with brush movements from top to bottom or from left to right.

After the object dries, a contrasting (second) paint is applied. Brush movements should be the same as when applying glue.

Without waiting for the paint to dry, a jet of hot air from a hair dryer is directed onto the surface of the object. Under its influence, the coating will begin to crack. The longer the product dries, the coarser and deeper the cracks will be.

The item is decorated with napkins using glue. The dried product is covered with several layers of acrylic colorless varnish.

Such craquelure looks good on dishes, flower pots, vases, trays.

Two step craquelure

Master classes on this technique are a little more complicated than the previous ones. To work, you will need acrylic varnish, art brushes, gum arabic (a viscous liquid that hardens in air), bitumen shellac, gold or silver powder. The application of craquelure consists of the following steps:

The cleaned surface of the object is covered with 2 layers of acrylic varnish. After it dries, shellac is applied to it in a plentiful layer. The thicker it is, the larger and rougher the cracks will be. To get a barely noticeable openwork mesh, a thin layer of shellac will be enough. When applying this substance, possible smudges should be avoided, since this error is almost impossible to correct.

When the surface of the shellac dries slightly, but is still sticky, gum arabic (liquid sour cream consistency) is applied on top of it with a thick layer. With light movements of the fingertips, this substance is rubbed over the entire surface. After about 3 minutes, the gum arabic will begin to stick to your hands. At this time, "massage" movements must be stopped.

When gum arabic dries, cracks will form on the surface. To emphasize them, bitumen is rubbed into them. Then, golden or silver powder is applied along the cracks.

Ready product covered with finishing varnish.

Craquelure on glass objects

Various glass products decorated using this technique look very impressive. The whole process of working with this material is practically no different from the above methods. At the same time, most needlewomen prefer to use single-phase craquelure on glass.

To work, you will need the object itself, acrylic paint in 2 contrasting tones, varnish, synthetic art brush, craquelure varnish. The glass surface on which the decor will be applied is degreased with alcohol. Then it is primed with acrylic varnish. After it dries, paint of one tone is applied (it will show through in the cracks). After that, craquelure varnish is applied to the surface. When it dries a little, but still does not lose its stickiness, the product is covered with the main (second) acrylic paint. After the appearance of cracks and the drying of the composition, varnish is applied to the surface.

Craquelure on a wooden surface

This decor technique is most often used to finish old furniture, which can become a highlight of the interior. In this case, you can use both one- and two-step craquelure. A master class on wood is practically no different from the above surface treatment techniques. The main conditions for successful and other objects in the craquelure technique are their thorough cleaning of old paintwork and puttying damage.

Features of applying craquelure

Like any kind of design, this one also has a few secrets that can make the job easier. The craquelure technique, which everyone can master, allows you to do the job quickly and without flaws. To do this, remember the following tricks:

Artistic brush should be only synthetic.

After the craquelure varnish has dried, the cracks are often rubbed with “silver”, “golden powder”, and dark-colored oil paint. After that, the remnants of these funds are removed from the surface. vegetable oil and wipe it dry. The finished product is coated with acrylic varnish. This technique allows you to turn even a simple object into a work of art.

Before applying the varnish can not be shaken, so that bubbles do not form. The work area must be free of dust and well ventilated.

The cracks on the surface have the same direction as the movement of the brush. To obtain the so-called craquelure mesh, a sponge is used or very small strokes are made.

How to make craquelure?

The simplest do-it-yourself craquelure is called single-phase (or one-step). It is used to obtain a uniform color of the surface with contrasting cracks. In order to complete it, you need to stock up on the following items:

• The object you have chosen for decoration;
• Ground brush;
• PVA glue or primer;
• One-component varnish for craquelure;
• Acrylic paints in two contrasting tones to create a design;
• Finishing varnish (acrylic);
• Regular hair dryer (to speed up drying).

Having collected all this and prepared the working room, you can proceed to the actual creation of craquelure. We will analyze step by step how to apply craquelure correctly:

1. Thoroughly clean the surface of the object to be decorated from dust and prime; To dry faster, use a hair dryer.
2. Apply acrylic paint that is intended for coloring cracks and let it dry completely.
3. Apply varnish quickly, evenly, without gaps - the thicker the layer, the thicker and cracks you will end up with. You need to dry the varnish to such a state when it is still sticky, but no longer sticks to the fingers.
4. Quickly apply base paint and watch cracks appear after a few minutes.
5. Fix the finished color with a finishing varnish.

Just five steps - and in front of you is an original creation that can perfectly fit into your interior!

Craquelure with improvised means

While you decide to buy the right materials, decide which tool for craquelure to choose, I will tell you how to get craquelure with improvised means.
I am a supporter of using improvised means to obtain various effects in decoupage, I like to use egg crackle, semolina and cereals, BUT I will say right away that if you can buy, order by mail, ask someone to bring you funds for craquelure, then do not read this article))))
Although, I probably got excited, here I thought that if you decide to decoupage a shed or a bathhouse, or an entire wall (Oh, how drawn to large-scale objects)))) then go broke on purchased funds. So read, experiment, and remember to write down in detail and step by step if you get a good crackle, otherwise it will be difficult to repeat.

Craquelure on PVA.
1 way. Undiluted PVA is applied in a thick layer on the surface to be decorated. We dry the PVA layer but not completely, how to determine this is not completely? Empirically))) Then we apply a layer acrylic paint and dry. I dried after the acrylic paint dries on its own for a while.
2 way. I have not seen a description of this method anywhere, I got it by accident, we will assume that I slightly changed the first method). I decorated the bottle and, in order for the acrylic paint to stick better, I decided not to prime the PVA glass, but simply mix the acrylic with PVA somewhere 50-50 and apply it to the bottle. After drying naturally for about 30 minutes, I decided to dry it with a hair dryer and ... cracks started.

Craquelure with egg white.
1 Prime the surface well.
2 Apply a layer of acrylic paint, which will be visible through the cracks, dry.
3 Apply varnish, dry, a layer is needed so that the protein is not absorbed later.
4Apply egg white in random order, with good strokes, in a thick layer. Allow to dry WITHOUT USING A HAIRDRYER! Dry properly.
5Apply contrasting paint carefully so that the strokes do not find each other.

Craquelure with PF 283 varnish.
Furniture varnish PF-283 is a solution of alkyd resins.
Lacquer PF-283 is designed to cover furniture, as well as other wooden and metal surfaces indoors during construction and repair. Forms an impeccably smooth homogeneous transparent glossy surface without foreign inclusions, which protects against the effects of foaming detergents, moisture and mechanical damage. Differs in high profitability. Film furniture varnish PF-283
Precautionary measures:
Do not work near open sources of fire. Work should be carried out with good ventilation, in rubber gloves, using personal protective equipment. Avoid inhalation and ingestion. If varnish gets on the skin, wash it with warm water and soap. Keep away from children!
So, most importantly, when using PF 283 varnish, we protect our hands and lungs. Experiment in a well ventilated area.
We apply a layer of varnish on the surface of the object to be decorated and wait 3-4 hours for it to come off, that is, it still sticks, but no longer sticks to the finger.
We apply the second layer of acrylic enamel or acrylic paint and immediately dry it with a hairdryer.
Cracks will depend on how the top coat of paint is applied. If you apply it with a brush, the cracks will follow the movement of the brush. If you want to get a mesh, apply the top layer with a sponge or small strokes.
Now, we gain patience and dry the finished craquelure for at least 36 hours (as long as the PF dries according to the instructions) And only after that we carry out the decoupage directly.

Craquelure with gelatin.
Getting crackle on gelatin requires a little training, don't be upset if it doesn't work out right away, however, this applies to any way to get the coveted cracks. Even special means they are capricious and one must be able to make friends with them, to say nothing of improvised means.
1 st. a spoonful of gelatin diluted in a glass cold water. We are waiting for swelling, and then we warm it up for final dissolution. Then, cool and apply gelatin, which begins to harden, on the surface to be decorated. We wait 10-15 minutes, you can use a hair dryer, the main thing is not to overdry and then, we apply the paint on the dried gelatin. You can apply a layer of paint over gelatin arbitrarily.
The layer of gelatin is adjustable depending on what kind of cracks we want to get "at the exit".
Thin layer - gentle cracks. Thick layer - deep wide craquelurins. If the gelatin layer is thick, it is possible to pull it with a brush or sponge, so you need to be careful when applying a layer of paint.
If you decide to blow-dry a coat of paint over the gelatin, be extremely careful as the gelatin may leak. !!!
We fix the work with several layers of acrylic varnish.
When working with glass, it must first be primed with PVA or acrylic paint.

Craquelure with table vinegar.
Using 9% table vinegar, you can also get crackle.
We apply acrylic paint, dry it almost completely, and gently press a sponge moistened with vinegar to the surface.
You can use this method for reverse decoupage. We glue the motif, apply a layer of paint, process it with vinegar, dry it and then apply a contrasting layer of paint.

Craquelure with liquid laundry gel.
We apply the main color, dry it .. Apply the gel with a brush. The thicker the gel, the better. Strongly diluted paint is applied to the gel.

Craquelure is an artificial aging of the surface. It belongs to mixed media, that is, it can be used both in combination with other design methods, and on its own. It is used in the design of furniture, the creation of decorative interior items, decorations and so on. Mastering this technique is not as difficult as it seems - the main thing is to follow the instructions for use and know the features of the types of craquelure varnishes.

Varieties

Modern manufacturers offer 2 types - one-step craquelure and two-step. The first one is well suited for beginners due to its ease of application. The surface treated with such a varnish resembles enamel cracked from time to time. A layer of acrylic paint is visible from under the surface of the varnish - the base.

Two-step craquelure varnish is more difficult to use, but it also gives a different effect - more beautiful, aesthetic, natural. Due to the fact that in this case the varnish itself cracks, it does not overlap the previous layer (for example, some kind of picture, image), and it can be used to finish a wide variety of surfaces.

Both types are used in decoupage. It all depends on the degree of skill of the decorator, his ability to work with this material. Craquelure does not differ in increased complexity, but still requires certain skills.

In this case, the type of varnish does not play a particularly important role. Someone considers two-step craquelure more difficult, for someone working with one-step is difficult.

How to apply?

As with any other decorative means, working with craquelure requires following some rules regarding surface preparation and the sequence of applying layers. For each type of varnish they have their own.

one step

So, in order to properly use a one-step craquelure, you must adhere to the desired sequence.

1. Prime the surface to be decorated.
2. After the primer dries, apply a layer of acrylic paint (base).
3. The painted surface is varnished (1 layer).
4. While the varnish is not completely dry - apply a second coat of paint.
5. From above, you can apply a napkin with the desired pattern. To do this, separate the two lower layers, put the top one with the picture on the file. Then smear with glue, attach to the surface, smooth. At the end, carefully remove the file so that the picture remains intact.
6. The final stage is the application of a simple varnish, for example, acrylic. It can be matte, glossy, transparent - any, depending on the preferences of the master.

If the sequence of using this type of craquelure is depicted in the form of a diagram, you get a kind of “pie” - primer, paint, varnish, paint, picture, acrylic varnish.

two step

Using the two-step view will require more time and effort.

1. First of all, the surface to be decorated must be covered with shellac in 2-3 layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried.
2. The next step is to apply the actual craquelure.
3. As soon as the varnish dries, the cracks need to be rubbed. For this, oil paint, pastel or something else is used.
4. Next, the image is applied.
5. Finally, the entire surface is covered with a layer of shellac to consolidate the result.

What is good about two-step craquelure is that it can be applied to a pre-prepared, glued image. It will create the effect of antiquity, without blocking the picture itself.

At the same time, it is necessary that the workpiece, on which the craquelure will be applied, be completely finished, with a pattern applied and varnished (in several layers).

The set for two-phase craquelure includes 2 products - the first and second layer. They are applied in sequence.

But before proceeding with the application of the second composition, you need to slightly dry the layer of the first agent.

After both compositions have dried and cracks appear, you can proceed to the next stages of work.

Applying paint also requires compliance with certain rules. No need to apply paint 2 times in the same place - an uneven coating may result.

In addition, it is important that the second coat of paint lies evenly the first time, completely covering the first. This is necessary so that the result is a uniform, beautiful coating, without “bald spots” and mixing layers.

You need to pay attention to the consistency of the paint - it should not be very liquid, but not thick either.

To make the cracks thin and long, the paint is applied in a thin layer with a brush. Small, scale-like cracks are obtained when applying paint with a sponge. In general, a number of factors affect how exactly the varnish cracks:

1. the actual composition of the craquelure;
2. how thick the varnish is applied;
3. how well it dried out;
4. the thickness of the paint, the thickness and application of the first layer also matters.

It is important to choose the right type of paint. Some of them - for example, metallic - do not crack at all. And in general, compositions with a very high density are quite difficult to “make” crack.

Dry the product in natural conditions in rooms with low or medium humidity.

In addition, it is advisable to keep a kind of "diary", where the following indicators are recorded:

1. how thick and in how many layers the first layer is applied;
2. how long does it take to dry the varnish;
3. under what conditions it takes place;
4. what kind of craquelure varnish was used;
5. the result.

These records will not only allow you to choose the optimal composition of craquelure and working conditions, but will also help you get the desired result in the future - simply by “playing” with the thickness of the layers, drying time and other characteristics.

Master class for beginners

To better understand the principle of working with craquelure, you need to put it into practice. A master class on creating a cup for brushes and pencils will help with this. In addition to craquelure, decoupage on wood is used here - this is work in mixed media. It clearly shows how and in what sequence you need to use craquelure varnish.

• So, first of all, the surface of the cup is sanded and primed in 1-2 layers. When applying the primer, a flat synthetic brush is used. Each layer should be allowed to dry for half an hour.

One step craquelure(one-component) - one of the decoration techniques, having become acquainted with which, you can make original crafts for home interior. There are other directions, such as patination, gilding, decoupage and a few more. All of them can be combined, supplemented and bring individual notes. We will familiarize ourselves with all the techniques later, but let's start with a very bright and expressive one-component craquelure.

What is one-component craquelure

("fr" craquelure) translated from French - a crack in the paint layer or varnish in a painting. One step craquelure used for aging simple plain surfaces. To do this, the surface of the object being decorated is covered with the main background. It is this color that the cracks will be. After the paint has completely dried, a one-step craquelure varnish is applied with simple movements in one direction, and dried again. Next, the main color paint is applied, under the influence of which the craquelure varnish begins to crack, and the background paint is visible in the cracks. Finished product can be coated for strength clear varnish for acrylic paints.

The concept of one-component implies the use of one tool (component) in the process of decorating. It is worth highlighting that two-component and one-component compositions can give the effect of simple cracking. At the same time, one-component ones can give cracks both in varnish and in paint.

The general scheme of a one-component pie is as follows:

• The first stage consists in high-quality preparation and priming of the workpiece.
• Then we paint in the color that we want to see in the cracks and dry completely,
• Next, apply craquelure varnish. Let it dry a little (here are the following nuances - the longer it dries, the cracks will be smaller and longer).
• Apply top coat paint.
• After it, you can patinate or varnish.

As a result of these manipulations, the craquelure varnish cracks the paint of the main color due to the difference in surface tension and the previous layer of paint is visible in the cracks. For clarity, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the following video:

What to pay attention to

When applying the top coat of paint, you must adhere to the following rules:

• You can not paint twice in the same place, since cracks begin to form immediately, and it is possible to paint over them.
• At one time, the paint must be applied as evenly as possible, covering the layer so that the underlying paint does not shine through it.
• The consistency of the main color paint is very important - not liquid, but not thick, so that the craquelure varnish allows it to crack.
• It is important to apply this paint evenly, with the same pressure on the brush. If the pressure is stronger, then the paint layer will be thin, the cracks will be long and elongated, thin (when applied with a brush) or small and “scaly” (when applied with a sponge).

To recreate beautiful natural cracks, it is necessary to correctly combine a sponge, brush, layers of paint and drying of craquelure varnish. And, of course, the selection of the optimal craquelure composition is no less important. Therefore, the nature of the cracks depends entirely on:

• Craquelure composition.
• The thickness of the varnish layer.
• drying conditions.
• Consistency of top coat paint.
• The thickness of the top layer of paint.

Which varnish to choose for one-step craquelure

Lacquer for one-step craquelure is a product produced on water based, having the form of a liquid paste. It dries extremely slowly. And acrylic paint applied on top of such a composition dries out in comparison with it just quickly. That is why its cracking occurs, provoked by movement in the underlying layer.

Varnish for one-step craquelure

On sale, on the shelves of creativity stores, you can find many jars of one-component compositions from various manufacturers. The most common one-step varnishes that are used:

• Craquelure varnish - DECOLA company (Russia).
• Craquelle Medium - Hobby Line (Germany).
• Krakelierlack - Nerchau company (Germany).
• Krakelee Medium - Marabu (Germany).
• Antique Effekt - Sadolin (Denmark).
• Idea Decoupage - Maimeri (Italy).
• Krakelierlack DecoArt medium - Rayher company (Germany).
• Crackle Medium - Decorfin company (Holland).
• Craquelure paint Krakelierfarbe - Glorex (Switzerland).
• One-step craquelure varnish - Ars Hobbi (Russia).
• One-step craquelure varnish - Tair company (Russia).
• One-step craquelure varnish - Aqua-color company (Russia).
• Country Style Crackle - Stamperia (Italy).
• One-step varnish Vintage design "I'm a decorator" - Rusart company (Russia).

Unfortunately, each composition gives peculiar cracks, and it is unlikely that you will be able to choose the composition that you definitely like the first time. Therefore, you should experiment with different compositions. Feel them and choose the best for yourself.

Mistakes to Avoid in One-Step Craquelure

Follow the instructions to avoid mistakes

Mistakes in preparing the base

• The porous base will absorb the craquelure medium, which will not be able to give full-fledged cracks in the subsequent paint layer.
• Only one, thin or uneven, layer of primer or acrylic paint is applied to the base.
• The compositions are applied with a coarse (bristle) brush.
• A well-prepared base (wood, gypsum, plastic, ceramics, etc.) is a surface with two layers of acrylic paint or primer.
• If you want to keep the color and texture of the base, you can top it off with a clear top coat with a glossy or matt effect.
• Each layer of the agent applied to the base must be dried well.

Application of craquelure medium (composition)

As a rule, all craquelure compositions, regardless of price and manufacturer, allow you to get the effect of cracking. They do it each in their own way, and it takes a little getting used to working with each of them. However, there is general rules work.

Typical mistakes:

• The craquelure lacquer medium is not mixed or mixed too much before use and contains many air bubbles.
• An uneven layer of craquelure varnish is applied to the base (if unintentionally, this is considered a mistake).
• The composition is applied with a rough, for example, bristle brush, leaving "grooves".

Rules:

• Before use, you need to mix the composition well (for a uniform consistency) and wait a bit (until possible air bubbles disappear).
• Apply the composition with a flat synthetic brush (for a smooth, without “grooves” coating). A thin layer of the product will give small cracks, a thick one - large ones. An uneven layer will give cracks of different sizes.
• If the composition is applied only to certain parts of the work, then the craquelure will appear only in these places.
• Brush movements are directed in one direction, the composition is applied to the surface at a time.

Application of acrylic paint

This is perhaps the most delicate moment in the whole work. It is from the time of the onset of this stage, the accuracy and uniformity of the application of paint that the final type of work to create cracks depends.

Typical mistakes:

• The paint is applied too early, that is, when the craquelure varnish is not yet dry enough (it sticks and gets dirty).
• The paint is applied too late. For different compositions, this different term(you need to see the description).
• The paint is applied in chaotic directions (if not provided as planned).
• The paint is not applied “in one pass”, but is applied again to the still wet layer or is “tinkered” with a brush back and forth.
• A rough or, conversely, too soft (not elastic) brush is used.

Rules:

• The paint is applied at the moment when the craquelure varnish ceases to stain the finger when touched, but still sticks.
• To obtain large and rough cracks, the paint can be applied a little ahead of time making confident pasty strokes.
• To speed up the drying of the product, you can use a warm jet of a hair dryer.
• All areas with craquelure varnish should be covered with paint.
• It is necessary to apply the paint strictly in one layer (do not carry the brush over the same place).
• The movements of the brush are directed in the same direction as when applying the medium (unless otherwise provided by the idea).
• The composition is applied with a flat synthetic brush (for a smooth, without “grooves” coating).
• A thin layer of paint will give thinner and more elegant cracks, a thick one - large and deep. An uneven layer will give cracks of different sizes and types.

Drying one-step craquelure

It's hard to make a mistake at this stage. To speed up the final result, two options are possible: wait until everything happens by itself, or speed up the process of cracking with a warm jet of a building hair dryer (a hair dryer is also suitable).

Rules:

• Cracks begin to appear almost immediately, especially if the compositions are applied in a thin layer.
• First, large cracks appear, then they continue to grow and, as a rule, are covered with a network of smaller cracks.
• The heating process speeds up this process.