Russian folk hairstyle. Haircut "Russian", haircut styles. Beauty secrets of strands of Russian women

And powdered wigs, bob and modest girlish braids, complex overhead designs and light curls. We have prepared for you a short guide to Russian hairstyles: from ancient times until the end of the 19th century.

Ancient Russia and the post-Mongolian period: haircuts "under the pot" and brushes

Vasily Tropinin. Portrait of a Ukrainian peasant. Late 1830s - early 1840s. Kyiv National Museum of Russian Art, Ukraine

Konstantin Makovsky. Portrait of a girl in a Russian costume. 1810s Private collection

Vasily Tropinini. Portrait of an elderly Ukrainian peasant. 1820. Nizhny Tagil Museum fine arts, Nizhny Tagil

Men's and women's hairstyles in Russia were simple and of the same type. The most common men's haircut- "under the pot." It was popular with young people: an earthen vessel was put on the head and the hair was cut off along the edge line. The “under the brace” hairstyle was shorter: on the sides to the middle of the ears, and in front to the middle of the forehead. Older men usually wore shoulder-length hair and grew long beards.

On some ancient miniatures and frescoes there are images of men with long strands hair hanging down on one side. With such a haircut, Grand Duke Svyatoslav Igorevich is depicted in the handwritten book “Izbornik Svyatoslav”.

“The prince's hairstyle consisted of a long tuft of hair on a shaved head. The lock was divided into two strands that hung down on both sides of the face. The beard that complemented the hairstyle was sparse, but the mustache was thick and long. An earring was put into the ear precious stones».

In Ancient Russia, hair was not a sign of social belonging: both princes and peasants could wear the same hairstyles. The difference in origin was emphasized by the headdress. The poor wore hats made of cheap cloth, and the nobility wore hats made of leather and velvet, decorated with gold, silver and precious stones.

Church prescriptions influenced the female appearance: after marriage, hair should be hidden under scarves or other headdresses. It was unacceptable to show hair to strangers - it was called "goofing off" and was considered a shame. Women wore kokoshniks and ubrus - cloths that were tied over light cap. Unmarried girls could go without dresses: they braided their hair in braids and decorated their hair with colorful ribbons.

15th-17th centuries: short bangs and spade beard

Ilya Repin. Bearded peasant. 1879. Private collection

Konstantin Makovsky. Russian beauty. XIX century. Private collection

Ilya Repin. Belarus. 1892. State Russian Museum, St. Petersburg

In the following centuries, haircuts became shorter. Men at this time continued to wear beards. She was released immediately after coming of age, she was not shaved until the end of her life and only sheared, giving a certain shape. The most popular styles are spiky beards, round beards, split in two and spade.

A shaved face was a sign of youth and youth. Vasily III got rid of his beard after marrying the princess of Serbo-Lithuanian origin Elena Glinskaya. Following the prince, his retinue shaved. But soon there were rumors about the eccentricities of the authorities, and Vasily III again grew a beard, fearing popular unrest.

Fashion on smooth face returned to the Time of Troubles under the influence of the Poles. And again for a short time: Alexei Mikhailovich, having come to the kingdom, issued laws banning short haircuts and shaving the beard. They indicated that no one “I didn’t accept foreign, German and other customs, I didn’t cut my hair on my head, I didn’t wear dresses or hats from foreign samples”. There is evidence that in 1675 Prince Koltsov-Masalsky disobeyed the royal decree, cut his hair short and lost his rank because of this.

Women's fashion during this period practically did not change: girls still weaved braids, married women wore closed hats “in public”.

XVIII century: "rat tails" and "frigates"

Carl Ludwik Christinek. Portrait of Count Alexei Orlov-Chesmensky. 1768. Primorsky State Picture Gallery, Vladivostok

Dmitry Levitsky. Portrait of Ekaterina Molchanova. 1776. State Russian Museum, St. Petersburg

Ivan Nikitin. Portrait of Gavriil Golovkin. 1720. State Tretyakov Gallery, Moscow

Attitudes towards hairstyles changed dramatically in the 18th century. The peasants remained true to the traditions of past centuries, and the high society began to follow french fashion. At the peak of popularity were bulky wigs of "mane" and "poodle" styles - both women and men were decorated with them. Wigs were expensive: for example, during the reign of Elizabeth Petrovna, a hair structure could be bought for 5 rubles. For comparison: a pound of wheat (16.3 kilograms) was sold for 64 kopecks, and a large bag of sugar - for 2.5 rubles.

Before that, everyone was cut by barbers who still bled, pulled out teeth and even prescribed some medicines. And now "stylists" from France came to Russia, people new profession- hairdressers. They not only did hairstyles, made wigs from false hair, but also made up ladies and gentlemen. Hairdressers were considered people close to art and were called "stupid artists" (from the French word "toup" - a strand of hair).

“He was not a simple, banal master with a stupid comb behind his ear and with a tin of rouge rubbed in lard, but he was a man with ideas, in a word, an artist.”

Nikolai Leskov, the story "Dumb Artist"

Men at court followed not only French fashion. During the reign of Anna Ioannovna, “Prussian braids” or “rat tails” spread: powdered wigs with curls and a pigtail. In 1731, this hairstyle was officially introduced in the Russian army for representatives of all ranks. Only privates could powder their hair only on special occasions. The decree was canceled by Alexander I almost 70 years later.

In the 18th century, court ladies and representatives of the upper classes preferred complex compound hairstyles with additions of chignons and curls. One of the most popular was the "fontage" - a high bouffant decorated with starched lace and pearls. Desperate fashionistas erected structures in the form of ships and frigates on their hair. In France, this hairdresser's design was called á la Belle Poule, after the warship Belle Poule. It is believed that Queen Marie Antoinette was the first to wear such a hairstyle, and half of Europe imitated her, including Russian ladies.

XIX century: ancient elegance and sophistication of romanticism

Wilhelm Kaulbach. Portrait of Franz Liszt. 1856. Franz Liszt Memorial Museum, Budapest, Hungary

Vladimir Borovikovsky. Portrait of Alexei and Alexandra Lobanov-Rostovsky. 1814. State Russian Museum, St. Petersburg

Karl Bryullov. Portrait of Princess Elena Pavlovna. 1828-1829. Private collection

In the 19th century, the fashion for hairstyles changed rapidly: almost every ten years, new forms appeared. Fashion was dictated mainly by France, all hairdressing novelties came from there.

At the beginning of the century, Russia was captured by the antique theme.

“Busts of ancient gods and citizens of the ancient era were placed in hat shops and hairdressers. In hairstyles, they began to imitate the ancient fashions of Greece and Rome.

Men no longer wore wigs and powdered their hair, they cut their hair short and neatly styled their hair. The most popular haircut of those years - "a la Titus" resembled the image of the Roman emperor from the Flavian dynasty. Often men's hairstyles were complemented by short narrow sideburns, which were called "favorites".

Women at the beginning of the 19th century also wore short hair, which curled in a variety of ways. There were many types of curls: spiral and tubular, flat and round, tape and similar to chips. The “a la Ninon” hairstyle with bangs, curls and a flat chignon at the back of the head came into fashion.

The era of romanticism brought fashion to semi-long hair- caret - in men. Such haircuts were especially popular among writers, artists and musicians. It is believed that the favorite of the public, pianist Franz Liszt, became the founder of fashion.

Women's hairstyles in the middle of the century again became more complicated: they were supplemented with false curls and braids, decorated with feathers, flowers, combs, precious stones. Proportional styling came into fashion when the hair was divided into two equal parts and collected in rollers or hemispheres.

In 1886, the first curling tool appeared in St. Petersburg - Marseille tongs. They made a splash in hairdressing- and the fashion for women's hairstyles began to change rapidly. Hairdressers experimented with silhouettes, curling and styling long hair in a variety of ways.

At the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, a new men's haircut appeared - "a la Capoul", named after the French tenor singer Victor Capul. The hair was divided into a straight parting and laid in a semicircle on both sides, leaving a short bang. Writers ridiculed the rampant popularity. In the story "Businessman" Russian hairstyles from Ancient Russia to the beginning of the 20th century

The 2020 season has already announced which haircuts for long hair will be the most fashionable. If the idea to change the image has already crept into your head, you should not hesitate to decide on this. Along with a new hairstyle, new colors and emotions will appear in your life. And our guide to trendy haircuts will help you choose the right option for the most beautiful change. The 2020 season is betting not so much on stylish haircut, so much for the perfect condition of the hair. Long hair is a beautiful decoration for a girl, but only if the hair is thick and well-groomed. Don't forget about it!

Another must-have is maximum naturalness. In the main trends, you will not find complex haircuts (although there are a couple of exceptions) and hairstyles. Fashionable girl this season should look like she spent no more than a couple of minutes on the training camp. A successful haircut will take care of this effect, which will look great even without styling. Still do not lose their leadership positions various techniques coloring, which look especially impressive on long hair. We are sure that such fashionable coloring will be the perfect complement to any haircut and emphasize its beauty.

Is it fashionable to cut a bob in 2020 - the latest trends, latest news, photos

A versatile and comfortable hairstyle has not lost its popularity for many years. In the new season, the trend will help to add volume to thin hair, and thick hair will allow you to be spectacular and expressive. Haircut fit both young fashionistas and mature beauties. Combining certain techniques, you can add business rigor or bold playfulness to the image. A shortened classic bob is an ideal option for emphasizing the beauty of hair. Natural density and popular glossy shine will always look stylish and tasteful. Tired of straight strands?


Naughty curls or natural disheveledness will give the bow a romantic touch. Graduation is the most interesting and popular technique that allows you to get the desired shape even on the weakest and thinnest hair. Layer-by-layer cutting and careful thinning of the tips makes the hairstyle as voluminous and natural as possible. It does not require long styling, which is convenient for modern women who are always in a hurry.

Do you want to change the image, but are not ready for radical changes? Then we recommend starting with a square. The popular hairstyle has been a "transit point" between extreme pixie and long hair for many years. Beauties often begin experiments with a mane with just such a haircut. In the 2020 season, we are offered an extended classic version. Smooth curls are suitable for women of fashion with any face shape: they perfectly stretch wide faces and focus on the correct oval. The hairstyle can be quickly transformed into a stylish styling or combed into a bun.


Are asymmetrical haircuts trending in 2020? Photos of ideal examples

Asymmetry has been popular for more than a year, but it looks most successful on an elongated square. A feature of the haircut is the maximum front strands (below the chin) and a short nape. Depending on the wishes of the client, the master can apply certain techniques. Choosing an asymmetrical haircut, a woman with short hair simultaneously wants to get three advantages - it is advantageous to present an oval face, demonstrate the shine and strength of her hair, and show others around herself in a new look. At the same time, I want the haircut to retain its shape for a long time and even with hair regrowth it allows you to make interesting experiments with appearance.



Asymmetrical haircut was invented by Vidal Sessun, the famous English stylist. Today, asymmetry is welcomed both as an element of the hairstyle (oblique bangs, styling on one side, one-sided highlighting or dyeing), and as part of the image as a whole. Such a haircut will never leave the catwalks and streets, because it is easy to perform, gives brightness to the owner and always leaves room for creativity.

Stylish haircuts for very short hair 2020 - latest news, photos

She goes to many. It is made by both young girls and women over 40 years old. The secret is in versatility. There is a great variety of styling, the shape can also be “adjusted” to the type of face. Pixie is quite voluminous and at the same time neat haircut. In general, there are many advantages. The most popular among young people is a haircut on short hair With long bangs, which can be beautifully laid in waves or create a more "rebellious" style by laying it up in the form of a mohawk.

To make an evening version of a fashionable hairstyle, bangs can be braided or laid using the technique of creating a “cold” wave. To create stylish haircuts for short hair, you will need styling products (gel, varnish, mousse), a curling iron, a round comb and a hair dryer. If you look at the types of hair coloring, then highlighting is suitable for a pixie haircut, as well as ombre-type coloring (the roots are dark and the ends are brightened). Some girls color a few strands of bangs in bright colors. Looks stylish enough. By the way, highlighting several strands with color will be one of fashion trends in coloring for the coming season.



In the upcoming season, the bob-car will no longer be as popular as before. After all, it will be replaced by new forms of bob haircuts. For young girls, it will be relevant short bob with thick straight bangs (remember the images of Taylor Swift and Natalie Portman in the movie "Leon"). But older girls are more likely to like the option of an elongated caret with a slightly curly hair. will not be forgotten and retro style, a glamorous square with curls and a cold wave.

Fashionable haircuts in 2020 Bob caret - photo of stylish options

Any type of appearance and face shape will play even brighter with a new haircut. After all, the main task of the “bean” is to make the features more expressive, to open the face. But one thing must be observed important rule: contact a good specialist. Otherwise, instead of the most trendy haircut, you can get disappointed and longing for the lost length. Not too happy with your round cheeks? Or maybe you would like to soften the line of the chin? Nothing is impossible for Bob. An experienced master will make the thinning of the strands just in the area of ​​\u200b\u200b"problem" zones and thereby correct them. For example, he will emphasize the cheekbones with contrasting "feathers" or add a long bang-wave, which will make square face more rounded. The main thing is to immediately tell the stylist what you want.


Fashionable haircuts for balayage 2020: photos of luxurious examples

For those who prefer unusual species staining, the balayage technique is probably known. With its help, you can achieve interesting color solutions in one hairstyle: highlights, individual strands, contrasts, and even the most real game various shades. One of these techniques is balayage for short hair, which allows you to emphasize the beauty of the hair and facial features in a favorable light. Very often used balayage technique for short hair. There are not so many styling options for such a length, and unusual and spectacular coloring allows you to make your hairstyle more interesting. Balayazh fits especially well on an elongated square.


If you have long dreamed of changing your hairstyle, adding shine to your hair, but at the same time you are afraid to change dramatically, do not want to constantly tint your hair and depend on salon procedures, balayage is perfect for you. In addition, this creative coloring is the best solution for those who cannot choose in any way: to be light or dark? After all, this technique involves a combination of several shades on the hair at once, both dark and light. But alas, you have to do styling every day. Otherwise, the effect will be the opposite and it will seem to everyone that you just haven’t painted over the overgrown roots for a long time.

Fashionable haircuts for shatush 2020 photo of fresh ideas

Shatush is one of the most popular coloring techniques, which consists in lightening with smooth transition to darker shades. In this case, the dye is applied to strands of different thicknesses, retreating a considerable distance from the roots. Due to the fact that about half the length of the hair is dyed, the procedure can be repeated about 1 time in 3 months. Most often, curls are subjected to such staining. middle length or longer. On the short shatush can only be done by an experienced craftsman. Shatush is a technique that allows you to change the shade, but the color remains more natural. If you have to dye short hair, then the result will no longer be the same. The difference will be much more visible. Therefore, if you have short hair and you definitely want this particular color change method, then it is better to turn to a real professional with this.


Fashionable haircuts for painting Ombre 2020 - the latest trends, photos

There are many ways to change your appearance and every woman has the opportunity to become exactly what she wants. Hair is the main tool of transformation, because unlike jewelry and clothes, it is much easier and faster to change it. You never know when inspiration comes to you, and you want to change something in yourself. A woman who takes care of herself is able not only to conquer men's hearts, but also to find her place in life. Beauties tend to be happier and more successful in life.

Women's favorite pastime is changing hairstyles, as well as experimenting with changing hair color. In addition to the usual change in shade, stylists are constantly coming up with new ways to give the hair sophistication and gloss. One of these methods is ombre hair coloring. If someone does not know, the ombre technique involves the gradual coloring of the hair, from a dark color at the roots of the hair to the lightest at the ends. Ombre, unlike bronding, may not be suitable for everyone, because there is a so-called effect of hair regrown at the roots, which reduces the popularity of this method of coloring.

Ombre can add charm and charm to your appearance. And charm is the prerogative of the most beautiful women planets. If you consider the examples below, it will become clear to you that each owner of such a hairstyle has its own unique look. In everyday life, we do not see such examples so often, so it is worth considering trying to try on this style for yourself. Who knows, perhaps your rivals will bite their elbows with envy.

Fashionable, trendy haircuts for long hair 2020 photo

If your hair lacks volume, then haircuts like a cascade or ladder can help you. It is they who create the layering that makes the hair visually more voluminous. If you need volume along the entire length - feel free to do a cascading haircut. If there is not enough volume in the face - your option is a ladder. In addition, it is not recommended to make an even cut. Give preference to slightly torn milled edges. It will also add the necessary volume to the hair. Remember that the end result will depend only on you and the stylist you choose.


Don't be afraid to experiment. The main thing is to choose a haircut in such a way that it emphasizes your strengths and skillfully hides your flaws. Long hair This in itself is a great pride. Pick the right edging for them, and you will see how they sparkle with new colors. Don't forget about coloring. Modern colorists are able to choose a hair color for every taste. Be guided by the basic rules when choosing a haircut, do not be afraid of someone else's opinion - feel free to create vivid images Because spring is a time of renewal.

Hairstyles and headdresses of the Moscow Principality changed little and retained their basic forms from the time of the founding of Moscow until the coming to power of Peter I, who, as you know, not only moved the capital from Moscow to St. Petersburg, but also shaved the beards of the boyars.


A frame from the film "Ivan Vasilyevich Changes His Profession".
Headdresses of the king and queen.


So, men's hairstyles have not changed much since Kievan Rus- These were short haircuts, for example, "under the pot." Haircut "under the pot" got its name thanks to the usual clay pot, which was worn on the head during the haircut and the hair was cut along the length of which. A little later, haircuts “under the bracket”, “in the circle” appear.



Pointed beard with mustache and brace haircut.


Boyars, like simple people wore long beards and mustaches. However, the fashion for shaved faces periodically appeared in Moscow. So, Prince Vasily Ivanovich shaved off his beard in honor of his second marriage. The boyars followed suit. However, the fashion for shaved faces did not last long.


The beards were the most various shapes- spade beard, wedge beard, pointed beard, round beard, split beard. For example, Tsar Ivan the Terrible wore a small pointed beard with a mustache and a brace haircut.


The fashion for shaved faces will come to Moscow again during the Time of Troubles and with the appearance of the troops of the Commonwealth (the state that then united the current lands of Poland, Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine) near the walls of Moscow. The Commonwealth wanted to put False Dmitry on the Moscow throne (there were several of them), supposedly the son of the last Moscow tsar from the Rurik dynasty, Ivan the Terrible. These attempts failed, and the Romanov dynasty soon ascended the Moscow throne.



Russian clothing from the 14th to the 18th century, terlik and murmolka hat.
(The view depicts the city of Astrakhan at the beginning of the 17th century).


Under the first Romanovs, European clothes (or as they are called German, Polish) and hairstyles are increasingly beginning to penetrate Russian lands. Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich (father of Peter I) also wore European clothes as a child, and, as a king, he did not particularly interfere with Western influences.


However, in his old age, a year before his death, in 1675 he issued a decree forbidding his subjects to wear Western clothes: they didn’t cut their hair on their heads, they didn’t wear dresses, caftans and hats from foreign models, and therefore they didn’t order their people to wear them. And if someone will continue to learn to cut their hair and wear a dress from a foreign model, or the same dress will appear on their people: both from the Great Sovereign will be in disgrace, and from the highest ranks they will be written to the lower ranks.



A. P. Ryabushkin. Waiting for the release of the king. 1901 Sketch.
In the hands of the boyars are throated hats.


Great importance was attached to headdresses. The traditional men's headdresses in the Moscow principality were:


1. Felt cone caps with embroidery and metal decorations.

2. Felt round hats different color with fur trim.

3. Tafya- the lower headdress, worn under large hats. Tafya was a round or square skullcap. It was made of velvet, embroidered with gold embroidery or beads.

4. Murmolka- a kind of cap. Made of fabric, low, embroidered with beads. At the same time, lapels made of fox, marten, and sable fur went from the face.


5. Throat cap- a hat similar to a pipe, a mandatory headdress of the boyars. Such a hat was entirely made of fluffy fur. And only the round bottom was made of expensive fabric.


6. At the court of Ivan the Terrible, sable hats were worn.




And, of course, speaking of the men's headdresses of Moscow Russia, one should not forget about the "Monomakh's hat" - a kind of crown, a royal headdress. "The Cap of Monomakh" crowned the kingdom. The shape of this headdress was a cone. It was adorned with precious stones and gold. The bottom is trimmed with valuable sable fur, on the top there is a golden cross.



Hairstyles of Russian women and girls


Women's hairstyles did not differ in variety. As in the times of Kievan Rus, women were required to hide their hair under their headdresses.


The girls wore braids. . During the wedding, the bride's braid to the sad songs of the bridesmaids and their sobs was untwisted and twisted into two braids that fit around the head - women's hairstyle. Thus, the bride and her bridesmaids said goodbye to the girl's unmarried life and her girlhood.



Princess O. K. Orlova at a costume ball in 1903.
Headdress - kokoshnik.



Abram Klyukvin. A woman in a Toropetsk pearl kokoshnik and a headscarf.


Headdresses of Russian girls and women


Women's headdresses were varied. They wore headdresses, shaped like an onion. Such headdresses were made of dense fabric - brocade, satin, silk, stretched over a solid base. The edges of the headdress were framed by a fringe. The kokoshniks themselves were painted with various patterns and decorated with pearls.


By the way, in those days, many jewelry was made from freshwater pearls (it was used in embroidery on clothes, hats), as it was relatively cheap and locally produced. Sea pearls were brought from the East.



Women's headdress (kika) of the Kaluga province. 1845.


In addition to kokoshniks, they wore kiku - an elegant headdress. The shape of this headdress depended on the area. For example, in the Tula region they wore a "horned" kick.



Spade-shaped kitsch (kika). Ryazan region, XIX century.


There were also warriors - lower hats married women. In shape, they resembled small hats or bonnets. They were sewn from linen, linen.



Woman and girl of Biryuchensky district. End of the 19th century.
In warriors.


They wore an ubrus - a heavy upper head scarf, in winter - small fur hats, woolen scarves.



V. Surikov, study for the painting "Boyar Morozova".
Ubrus.


The queen's headdress was a crown with one or more teeth. The crown was worn on top of a thin scarf. It was embroidered with gold threads, decorated with precious stones, and pearls along the edges.


Haircut "Russian"

Haircut "Russian"very simple and easy to perform (Fig. 107). All hair is cut under a circle, and from the sides they are cut at the level of the earlobe or taking into account the desire of the client.

The haircut is performed in the following order: the master, standing behind the chair, separates the hair with a straight parting from the middle of the forehead to the top of the head, then combs the hair down and begins to cut in a straight line from the left side to the back of the head. You need to cut your hair in strands, adhering to the level of the first. In order for the hair to be cut evenly and not separated during the haircut, they are held with the palm of the left hand, slightly pressed against the cheek.

To cut the hair on the right side, the master goes to the right side and starts cutting from the face to the back of the head. The hair of the occipital part of the head is cut evenly, and the edges should have a thick chopped edge.

Rice. 107

After that, the quality of the haircut is checked, all irregularities are eliminated.

Haircut "Russian" can be worn smoothly combed back or with a parting - straight or side. But regardless of this, the haircut when combing should be even.

Haircut "Russian"very simple and easy to perform (Fig. 107). All hair is cut under a circle, and from the sides they are cut at the level of the earlobe or taking into account the desire of the client.

The haircut is performed in the following order: the master, standing behind the chair, separates the hair with a straight parting from the middle of the forehead to the top of the head, then combs the hair down and begins to cut in a straight line from the left side to the back of the head. You need to cut your hair in strands, adhering to the level of the first. In order for the hair to be cut evenly and not separated during the haircut, they are held with the palm of the left hand, slightly pressed against the cheek.

To cut the hair on the right side, the master goes to the right side and starts cutting from the face to the back of the head. The hair of the occipital part of the head is cut evenly, and the edges should have a thick chopped edge.

Rice. 107


After that, the quality of the haircut is checked, all irregularities are eliminated.

Haircut "Russian" can be worn smoothly combed back or with a parting - straight or side. But regardless of this, the haircut when combing should be even.

hairdressing skill
L.G. Gutyrya