How to make a smooth transition in a male haircut with a typewriter. Hair cutting techniques Shading in men's haircuts

4. Shading

Shading is the execution of a smooth transition from long hair to short ones. This operation is similar to the reduction of hair "to nothing", but requires more careful execution, since even a small violation during shading will lead to the fact that characteristic "steps" will appear on a poorly executed section of the hair.

To perform shading, you need an ordinary comb and scissors with thin sharp ends; the thinner the ends, the smoother the transition will be.

5. Thinning

Thinning is the thinning of hair in density, which results in a natural ratio between short and long hair. Thinning is usually done on thick hair because Thick hair one length is difficult to style in a hairstyle, and styling (for example, when curling on curlers) quickly loses its shape. To avoid this, it is customary to mill the hair, i.e. cut in such a way that in each strand their length is different.

There are three main types of thinning.
1. Radical, which is performed at a distance of several centimeters from the hair roots. With its help, the hair seems to rise and become more magnificent, which gives the hairstyle volume.
2. Thinning at the ends of the hair, which is performed at a distance of several centimeters from the ends of the hair and also gives them splendor. Recommended for all short haircuts on the occipital and temporal areas, so that the hair does not bristle, but lies naturally and evenly.
3. Thinning along the entire length of the strand, which is needed when rarefying very thick hair.

Thinning can be done with special thinning scissors, regular scissors and a razor.

The depth of the milled hair depends on its density: the thicker it is, the longer the section of the strand must be processed. For normal thinning of medium-density hair, it is necessary to process them by at least one third of the length.

1. Select a small strand of hair, comb it, holding it with your index and thumbs left hand at an angle of 90 ° to the surface of the head. If you enter the blades of the scissors perpendicular to the strand, then it will contain a lot of hair, the same in length. As a result, individual bundles of hair cut at the same level will stand out sharply in the hairstyle. Therefore, the scissors must be inserted at an angle of 45 ° to the strand. Each clove will cut a certain group of hair on different distance from the roots.

2. Insert the blades of the thinning scissors into the captured and combed out strand of hair and close them. In this case, the part of the hair that has fallen under their teeth will be cut off. Then the scissors must be unclenched, moved towards the ends of the hair by about 1.5-2 cm and squeezed again.

3. Treat the strand in this way, squeezing and unclenching the scissors as they move towards the ends of the strand. At each stage of thinning, it is imperative to separate the cut hair from the strand, combing it from the base to the ends.

4. With simple scissors it is convenient to perform basal thinning. It is performed by plucking: lift the selected strand up and pluck individual hairs with the tips of the scissors at equal distances. With this method, you can decorate bangs, hair at the temples and on the neck in the form of a “fringe”.

5. It is good to decorate the ends of the strands with “teeth”, which should be cut at a distance of 2-3 cm from the ends of the hair. This operation is also carried out with simple scissors.

The technology of thinning with a razor is the same for both straight and safety razors. You need to start processing hair from the bottom strands. Take the strand with the index and thumb of the left hand, comb it and then proceed to thinning. Moreover, it must be remembered that the processing hair goes from the bottom strands, and they should be the shortest.

The first strands of hair along the edge of their growth on the neck do not need to be milled heavily - otherwise they may turn out to be too sparse. When milling the temporal zones, you need to make sure that the strands are very well stretched - so the cut line of the temporal sections of the hair will become smoother.

Shading is a type of haircut, when used, a gradual transition from elongated hair on the back of the head and crown, to short ones on the temples and neck. You can do it with scissors and a machine. will tell you about how to make shading hair.

Shading hair with scissors

- one of the tools for performing shading.

Take a long comb with frequent teeth and insert it under the hair in the neck area, grabbing it with the teeth so that the index finger is on these teeth, and the thumb is holding the comb from below.
After the comb, you need to turn it a little: its plane must be located at an acute angle to the hair.
The comb moves up and the collected hair is cut with scissors.
The comb and scissors move upward at the same time.

When shading, the following sequence of execution is followed: they start from the middle of the neck, go to the right, end on the left.

The hairdresser must follow the rules: he is right where he cuts; work with half bent arms; bend forward with the body, but keep the head straight.

- This is the line below which hair no longer grows. This line runs from the forehead to the temporal part, behind the ears and on the neck. It must be remembered that the hairline is winding, but not straight. The convolutions include: frontal protrusion - a place in the middle of the forehead, two frontal depressions and two temporal protrusions.

Performing shading with a machine

The shading starts from the very neck, and continues from the neck to the right. Having finished shading on the right, the specialist does it on the left, starting from the neck, moving behind the left ear and ending on the left temple.
Having placed the machine at the beginning, where the hair grows, the master makes a movement.
He squeezes and unclenches the handles, slowly pushing the typewriter to the top of his head.
First, sparse hair is cut.
When the machine begins to capture thick hair, then its teeth must be separated gradually from the skin in its direction.

How to make a shading

If they are dealing with a short haircut, then they are extinguished above the occipital protuberance, then, vice versa.
If the hair is left long, then the shading is done at the level of the ears. In the area of the temples - to the level of shading made above the ear.
When cutting on the right, the machine is placed sideways so as not to hook the hair further along the edge. Therefore, the machine on the right is pressed where there is no hair, while the left side is away from the hair. In this position of the machine, the hair is shaded to the top of the ear. Shading hair on the left is done in a similar way.
It cannot be expected that this procedure will give results after the initial haircut. In one zone, the hair must be cut several times, correcting the missed places.

The scissors are squeezed, and then unclenched and gradually carried out with a comb.
Separate the teeth of the comb from the head and move the comb up until the hair falls out.
At the end of the haircut on the neck, shear on the right. Then proceed to the left side from the middle of the neck.
Following the rules, the hair is cut to the middle of the ear, grabbing the comb obliquely to the direction of the hairline.
Scissors should be squeezed often - then the haircut will turn out to be as even as possible and without cuts. If you quickly move the comb and at the same time cut slowly with scissors, then the hair will not be cut off all. The haircut will be stepped, but not smooth.
The “ladder” can be obtained even when a very thick strand of hair is grabbed, and it should be thin. Just as when shading using a machine, a line must be determined in advance - it is necessary to cut it with scissors to its limits.
The best option is to cut your hair in two steps. This is a shading of hair along the very edge of growth and a haircut with scissors above the shading.

To check how well the shading is done, you need to grab the hair in its various sections with a comb. If it is obvious that the height of all cut hair is the same, then the shading was done correctly.

This hairdressing term, as well as reducing hair to nothing, refers to a haircut technique that achieves a smooth transition from long hair on the crown and back of the head to shorter hair at the temples and neck. The only thing is that shading, in contrast to reducing hair to nothing, requires more careful execution. You can perform this technique with a typewriter and scissors.

Scissors. Take in left hand a long comb with frequent teeth so that the index finger is on the teeth, and the thumb holds the comb from below. Insert the comb under the hair on the neck, grabbing it with the teeth so that the index finger is on the teeth, and the thumb is holding the comb from below. Insert the comb under the hair on the neck, grabbing the hair on the contour line of the back of the head with its teeth. Only after that, the comb is slightly turned towards itself: its plane should be at an acute angle to the surface of the treated area of hair. The shorter the haircut, the closer you need to keep the comb to the scalp (i.e. the smaller the angle mentioned should be).

When processing the right side line of the back of the head, point the ends of the scissors to the right and cut the hair with the ends of the scissors - it's more convenient. In this case, the blades of the scissors are not strictly parallel to the plane of the comb, but at a slight angle to it. The hair of the left lateral line of the back of the head, as well as the right one, is more convenient to process with the ends of the scissors, however, they should be directed to the left, and the blades should be parallel to the plane of the comb. Highly short hair negate only the ends of the scissors and the ends of the teeth of the comb.

Shading hair with a machine

Shading, or nullification, is called gradual haircut hair growing along the edge of the growth.

When shading, the following sequence of execution is observed; start shading from the middle of the neck, continue to the right side, end on the left side.

The hairdresser is obliged to follow the following rules when shading: stand directly opposite the place that cuts; work with half-bent arms; bend the body forward, and keep the head straight; when shading the neck, ask the client to bend his head down. To give the head the right position, it is allowed to touch it with only two fingers; shading is done with a hair clipper, scissors and a razor.

The hairline is the line below which no hair grows. On the head, this line runs from the forehead to the temples, behind the ears and on the neck. Hair growing at the edge of this line (except for the forehead) is nullified, i.e., faded. This means that at the very edge of growth, the hair is left as short as a haircut with a machine or scissors allows. Above the edge of growth, the hair is left longer. The result should be an even, correct shading.

It should also be remembered that the hairline is not straight, but winding. These convolutions are named: frontal protrusion - a place in the middle of the forehead; on both sides of the frontal protrusion there are two frontal cavities (right and left), and behind them are two temporal protrusions.

More often, shading of the head begins with the neck. Continue shading from the neck, usually to the right. The right or left side in this case is considered to be the distance from the neck behind the ear to the temple. Having finished shading on the right, the master stews the left side; starting at the neck, continuing behind the left ear and ending at the left temple. The haircut (shading) of each side has its own characteristics, which are listed below.

Shading hair with a machine

Usually it starts from the neck. You should pay attention to the fact that the machine must be installed on the neck with teeth at the edge of hair growth or slightly lower. When cutting hair on the neck, the position of the clipper is unstable. This can cause pain. To create a stop with the index or middle finger of the left hand, hold the machine from the side of the bottom plate.

Having installed the machine at the beginning of hair growth, the master sets it in motion. Squeezing and unclenching the fingers right hand, slowly moves the machine up to the top of the head. First, the sparsely growing hair on the neck will be cut. As soon as the machine begins to capture thicker hair, then its teeth must be gradually separated from the skin towards itself. It may happen that the hair in front of the machine has not yet been cut, and the machine has already been taken away from the head. In this case, it is necessary to continue cutting on weight until all the hair raised by the machine is cut.

They nullify (extinguish) the hair, depending on the shape of the head and the required haircut, to a predetermined height (line). This height is determined by the occiput.

If the haircut is short, then they are extinguished above the occiput, and vice versa. Depending on the style, haircuts are extinguished around the ears. If long hair is left when cutting, then the hair is extinguished at the level of the earlobes. This rule applies to shading the hair on the neck. From the sides, behind the ears, they are extinguished on an area of 1-2 cm from the edge of hair growth in this place. At the temples, they are stewed to the level of shading above the ear.

Turning to the haircut of the right side, behind the right ear, trying to shade the hair here along the edge of their growth, you cannot grab a lot of hair with the machine. Therefore, the machine is installed sideways so as not to capture the hair beyond the edge. To do this, the right side of the machine is pressed to the place of the head where there is no hair, and its left side is moved away from the head and hair. With this position of the machine, the hair is extinguished to the very top of the ear, i.e., to the place where the hair changes the direction of growth - now they grow towards the face.

At the temple, the machine is set flat and, moving it up, the teeth of the machine are gradually taken away from the head, as was done on the neck. The shading line of the temples should coincide with the shading hair above the ear.

When shading the hair on the left side, the same rules apply as when shading on the right side. The difference lies in the fact that when shading the left temple, the master stands to the left of the client.

You can not demand that the shading turned out immediately, after the first haircut. Hair in the same place is cut several times, correcting uncut or missed places by the machine.

It is necessary to drive the machine again in the same place very carefully so as not to disturb the shading that has already been done. In this case, the hair is first captured with a comb, and the hair is cut over the comb with a machine. This can be done at the end of the shading around the head or repeat shading.

Shading hair with scissors

Shading hair with scissors is much more difficult than shading with a machine, and therefore hairdressers often use a machine.

Scissors are put out in cases where the client’s head is irregular in shape or with physical defects that need to be hidden by a haircut, leaving more or less hair on the head. If there are small bald spots on the head, then it is better to cover them with hair and, conversely, if there are bulges (bumps) on the head, then it is better to cut the hair shorter.

Rules for shading with scissors

At the beginning of hair growth, in the middle of the neck, the frequent teeth of the comb are set flat. At the level of the teeth of the comb, the blades of the scissors are set no further than the screw, holding the scissors in the first step.

Often squeeze and unclench the scissors and slowly guide the comb. So continue to a predetermined line. Gradually separate the teeth of the comb from the head and in this position move the comb forward up until the hair falls out of the comb. Comb the hair down with a comb in order to repeat the haircut of the same strip.

Having finished cutting the hair in the middle of the neck, start cutting the hair on the right side. In the lower part of the neck, not far from the earlobe and further behind the ear, they are extinguished holding a comb and scissors in the second way.

Then the left side is stewed, starting from the middle of the neck. Observing the rules, cut the hair to the middle of the ear, grabbing it with a comb obliquely in the direction of hair growth.

The comb is held with the first reception for rare teeth, frequent teeth are set in the middle of the neck so that the teeth of the comb capture the hair at the beginning of their growth.

Hair is cut on a comb, so it captures all the hair growing along the edge. In accordance with the rules, scissors are installed with canvases on top of the comb. At the edge of growth, the hair is cut only with the ends of the scissors. This is done in order to cut the hair as short as possible at the beginning of growth, and the thickness of the teeth of the comb of the scissors does not allow this. Hair can be cut short only if it is cut with the ends of scissors and at the ends of the teeth of the comb.

It is necessary to squeeze the scissors as often as possible - this is an important condition for an even haircut without sharp cuts. If you quickly advance the comb and cut slowly with scissors, then not all the hair captured by the comb will be cut off, which means that the haircut will turn out to be ledges (ladders), and not gradual, smooth, as it should be.

In addition, stairs are obtained when a thick layer of hair is captured; you need to cut, capturing thin strands. As with shading with a machine, it is necessary to predetermine the line to which they cut (extinguish) with scissors. It is best to cut the hair of the head in two steps: shade the hair along the edge of growth and cut it with scissors above the shade. You can first shade the hair along the edge of their growth, and then continue cutting the intended strip above the shade to the crown without interruption.

The line to which the hair is extinguished will pass either above the occiput (with short haircut), or below the hillock (at long haircut). Having first set the comb close to the head, the hair is cut at the same time at the beginning of growth, leaving it as short as possible. As soon as the first hair is cut about 1 - 3 mm from the beginning of their growth, separate the teeth from the head and continue to cut already in the middle of the comb, capturing more hair.

Further, even more hair is captured with a comb. If they are long, then they put a comb under the hair and continue to cut on its butt. This position of the comb should be repeated all the time. Failure to comply with this rule will lead to the fact that the hair will be cut unevenly, so-called clippings are formed.

Another important rule; as soon as the comb has advanced approximately 1 - 2 mm upwards, the teeth of the comb must be gradually moved away from the head, and the higher the comb is advanced, the further it must be moved back. At a distance of 1 - 2 cm from the beginning of hair growth, the comb no longer touches the head, it is held on weight and in this position the hair continues to be cut on top of the comb. The correct shape of the haircut depends most of all on the position of the comb, which regulates the amount of hair to be cut. Therefore, the comb should be held firmly on the strip that is being cut, and it is necessary to cut until the hair falls out of the comb.

Even an experienced hairdresser will not immediately cut hair to the desired length. Most often, he repeats the haircut of the same strip several times. For the first time, the master cuts less hair, then combs the cut strip down, and if the length of the hair does not match the one needed for the intended haircut, then repeats cutting the same strip until the desired length is reached. It is recommended to cut the hair, shortening it gradually, rather than trying to cut a lot of hair at once.

There can be several haircuts on the neck: one in the middle, and the rest on the sides. Each of these strips must be cut separately, and if the first middle strip is cut, then when cutting the neighboring strip, a part of the hair of the cut strip is captured and the hair of the neighboring strip is cut at their level. After shading the neck, it is recommended to start cutting the right side.

First cut the hair on the right side of the neck, behind the ear. Here, the second method of positioning the comb and scissors is used, which is as follows. The comb is held with the left hand at the end of the rare side (two fingers - index and middle - on the outside, and a large one - on the inside). The scissors are held according to the rules, then they are turned upside down, that is, they hold the hand from below, and the scissors from above (the thumb of the right hand will go into the upper ring, and the whole hand holds the scissors from below.

With this method, the comb and scissors are on the same side, and the ends of the scissors are cut at the ends of the comb. This technique is used when cutting hair behind the ear, so as not to pinch the ear shell with scissor rings.

When shading the edges of the hair behind the right ear, it is necessary to grab the hair with the end of the frequent side of the comb and press this end to the head, and move the rest of the comb away from the skin so that the hair is cut no more than 1-2 cm from the edge of growth.

They hold the comb and scissors in the second way, cut the hair to the very top of the ear, that is, to the place where the hair changes its direction and grows towards the face. After cutting the ends of the hair behind the ear, you can start cutting the hair above the ear by holding the scissors and comb in the first way.

The shading behind the left ear should look the same as the shading behind the right ear. However, their implementation is different. Behind the left ear, it is inconvenient to grab the hair growing along the edge of the growth. Here you need to put the comb obliquely in the direction of hair growth so that one end of the comb, which the master holds with his left hand, is on top of the ear, and the other, which captures the hair, is below. The lower end of the comb captures the ends of the hair, and with scissors (holding them in the first way) they cut with a shade, that is, no further than 1 - 2 cm from the edge of growth, gradually separating the teeth of the comb from the head.

To cut the hair on the temple, the master comes to the left of the client, stands facing him and, grabbing the hair of the temple and holding the comb and scissors in the second way, extinguishes the hair of the temple to the level of the brushed hair above the ear. Then the master bends the ear shell down with a comb or hand, picks up the uncut hair from above the ear with the comb and cuts it.

Such a shade is considered correct and beautiful, which has a strictly consistent length of the hair left.

You can check the correctness of the shading as follows: the comb captures the hair in different places of the shading. If it turns out that the height of the cut hair is the same everywhere, then the shading is done correctly.

Reducing hair to nothing - this is a smooth, gradual change in the length of the hair from the longest in the central regions of the crown and back of the head to the shortest in the peripheral areas of the scalp (Fig. 80, 81). Along the edge of their growth in the area of the temples and neck, this operation can be performed with any cutting tool. But one machine does not always manage to get a smooth transition in the length of the hair. The machine performs only “rough” processing; scissors are needed for final finishing. The combined use of a machine and scissors allows you to reduce the time required to complete this operation. Reducing hair to nothing using a machine and scissors can be done in two ways with and without a comb.

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Rice. 81

When performing this operation in the first way, there is a certain dependence: the sharper the transition from longer to shorter hair, the closer the upper and lower boundaries should be in shape. Therefore, in this case, the imaginary upper limit of hair reduction should practically repeat the shape of the hairline on the neck. The greater the smooth transition from the longest to the shortest hair, the higher the upper part of the border of the treated hair, repeating the characteristic curve of the edge of the hair growth on the neck (method without using a comb).

The second method (using a comb) finds its main application with a smoother than in the first method, reducing hair to nothing. It consists in the fact that a comb is placed under the teeth of the machine and the hair is cut along its plane.

The reduction of hair to nothing with the help of a machine is carried out along the plane of the comb:

1. When the teeth are pointing up.

2. When the teeth are pointing down.

The operation of reducing hair to nothing can be performed also dangerous or without straight razor. The specificity of a haircut in this way lies in the fact that hair thinning also occurs at the same time. Thus, a haircut with a razor combines two operations - hair reduction and thinning.

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Tushevka

Tushevka - obtaining a smooth transition in the length of hair growth from long to short (Fig. 82, 83). This operation is similar to the reduction of hair to nothing, but requires better performance. Shading is a very delicate operation, even a slight violation of the gradual transition from long hair to short hair leads to the fact that in some areas there are characteristic shades hair, indicating poor quality of its performance. To perform the shading correctly, simple scissors should be used, with the thin ends of which it is possible to perform the operation very accurately (Fig. 84). The sequence of processing each section of the scalp during shading is the same as when reducing the hair to nothing.

thinning

thinning- creating a natural ratio between long and short hair in the process of cutting on the entire scalp or on its individual sections.

Consider the technological process of performing thinning with simple scissors of the temporal sections of the hair. Separate a small strand with vertical partings - it is more convenient to process such a strand with simple scissors. The base of the strand should look like a rectangle with sides of 2-3 and 4-5 cm, and the large sides of such a rectangle will be vertical.

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When thinning with serrated scissors, a strand of hair is separated with a vertical, horizontal or any other parting (Fig. 85). The dimensions of the strand are the same as when cutting with simple scissors. The strand is taken with the index and thumb of the left hand and slightly pulled away from the scalp (Fig. 86). After combing it, proceed to cutting with serrated scissors. The blades of the scissors should grab the strand of hair not perpendicular to it, but approximately at an angle of 45 °. This is a very important condition that must be observed. With the introduction of serrated scissors at an angle of 45 ° to the strand, each clove cuts off a certain group of hair at different distances from the roots. In this case, even with a single grip of a strand with scissors, the length of the hair when cutting is different. Depending on the density of the strand, 5-8 grips are needed to process it. Thus, the strand will consist of as many groups of hair of different lengths, which are obtained by multiplying the number of scissor teeth by the number of grips (cuts) made, plus those hairs that did not fall under the scissor teeth and were not cut.

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As already noted, it is advisable to perform thinning when cutting hair with a razor (Fig. 88). Technological processes of thinning dangerous and safety razors are similar (Fig. 90, 91). Begin thinning hair from the lowest strands (Fig. 89). For high-quality thinning, three to five strokes with a razor from the underside of the strand are enough (Fig. 87).

edging

edging - this is a cutting operation, as a result of which a sharp line is attached to the hair, limiting them along the entire edge of the growth of the scalp or in its individual sections within the required area and giving the hairstyle the final contour (Fig. 92, 93). Edging is most often the final operation of a haircut, with its help the final silhouette is given to the hairstyle. Only the hair along the edge of their growth is processed.

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It is advisable to trim the hair with a machine, simple scissors and a straight razor. It is recommended to start edging the hair from the left temple (Fig. 94). After that, you should make a fringing of the hair behind the left auricle. Then, using the same techniques, the edging of the right temple is performed (Fig. 95). In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the height of the edging line of the left and right temples and their shape are the same.

After the development of the entire scalp, it is necessary to check the quality of the edging.

Scissors. Take a long comb with frequent teeth in your left hand so that the index finger is on the teeth, and the thumb holds the comb from below. Insert the comb under the hair on the neck, grabbing it with the teeth so that the index finger is on the teeth, and the thumb is holding the comb from below. Insert the comb under the hair on the neck, grabbing the hair on the contour line of the back of the head with its teeth. Only after that, the comb is slightly turned towards itself: its plane should be at an acute angle to the surface of the treated area of hair. The shorter the haircut, the closer you need to keep the comb to the scalp (i.e. the smaller the angle mentioned should be).

Move the comb upwards, against the direction of hair growth, and cut off the hair picked up by the comb with scissors. In this case, the blades of the scissors should be parallel to the plane of the comb. The scissors and the comb move upward at the same time (Fig. 3). When processing the right side line of the back of the head, point the ends of the scissors to the right and cut the hair with the ends of the scissors - it's more convenient. In this case, the blades of the scissors are not strictly parallel to the plane of the comb, but at a slight angle to it (Fig. 3). The hair of the left lateral line of the back of the head, as well as the right one, is more convenient to process with the ends of the scissors, however, they should be directed to the left, and the blades should be parallel to the plane of the comb. Very short hair is only offset by the ends of the scissors and the ends of the teeth of the comb.