Purpose: to learn adjust using foundation or contour powder.

Undoubtedly, women have a lot of privileges, but one of the most pleasant is that we can hide minor flaws and emphasize our natural beauty with the help of cosmetics. And using the technique described below and just a few simple tools, you can even change the shape of your face. Many women want to make their face visually more oval, and therefore more proportional. If the face above is not oval (define .) then the most effective method- This is corrected with the help of light and shade technology. To do this, we need 3 shades of powder or foundation of varying degrees of depth: foundation, highlight and contour.

What is the essence of face correction

The black and white technique is the application of dark and light decorative cosmetics to certain areas (they are different for each face shape), in order to visually increase something, and vice versa, reduce something. Wherein dark colors visually reduce the surface, as if taken away in depth, and light ones increase, pushing forward. Such light and shade correction allows you to visually change the shape of the face, the shape of the nose, eyes and lips. And you don't need a plastic surgeon!

So let's get started, first you need to pick up cosmetics.

The choice of cosmetics to change the face

The base is a foundation that matches your skin tone perfectly.

Glare. It can be powder, loose shadows, a pencil or a corrector a level lighter than the base color. Which tool to choose, matte or with mother of pearl, depends only on your taste preferences. With the help of mother-of-pearl, you can significantly rejuvenate the face, create a glossy effect. The main thing to remember is that the color of the highlight should be natural. Avoid grey, marbled or overly light shades.

Circuit. It can be powder, foundation, eye shadow or blush a level darker than the base color. The foundation is more resistant, but it is better to use it only for; contour powder is more suitable for daytime makeup. The main rule: the product should be a cold brown shade. In no case do not use products of a red or orange tint, they will not create the desired darkening effect.

There should not be a sharp difference between these three shades, and all transitions should be as smooth as possible. Therefore, blend well by mixing shades, because it is mixing that makes this face correction method work.

Stages of face correction

1. First we apply foundation, this will be our base. We hide all redness and under the eyes with masking agents. Then mentally draw an oval on our face. We will highlight it, and darken everything else.
2. The second color, the highlight color, we apply to the highest points of the face, inside the outlined oval - this is the forehead, the areas under the eyes above the cheekbones and the tip of the chin. The areas that we highlight will first of all attract the eye.
3. Then, we create an "artificial shadow" by darkening the area outside the oval: the hairline, the temples, the outer sides of the cheeks. By darkening the outer areas, you make them visually recede, making your face look narrower and more oval.

You also need to consider skin color. If you have light skin, then you will shade the contour of the face more than highlight it. With dark skin, the opposite is true, you will highlight the skin more than shade the contour.

1. Make sure that the transitions between colors are as smooth and accurate as possible. When applying daylight, it is better to sit by the window, then you will notice and easily eliminate all the flaws that are not visible under artificial lighting.
2. Girls with problematic skin you should be careful with mother-of-pearl, as it can make pimples even more noticeable. Also, do not apply pearl under the eyes.
3. To avoid the effect of dirt on the face, apply cosmetics in small portions. The first movement of the brush should be applicative, that is, first we apply powder (corrector or shadows), and then blend it.

Correct face shape correction video

In this video tutorial, the make-up artist shows the model how to correct the face with the help of tanning powder and a white mother-of-pearl base.

• Face Correction Rules
• Lip shape correction
• Eye shape correction
• Correction of skin imperfections

Basic rules for face correction

Correction is a way of visual modeling of the face with the help of cosmetics: as a rule, dark and light colors. These colors play the role of "light" and "shadow": when applying funds dark shades the application area is visually reduced or narrowed. When using light ones, on the contrary, it increases and becomes a little more convex. Correction of imperfections and skin defects is done in tone-on-tone shades.

It is advisable to use dark products only in the evening, when the shadows “soften” a little - there is a risk that in the light of day such a correction will be too noticeable on the skin.

If, nevertheless, it is necessary to sculpt the face, it is advisable to use dry products. For example, tan blush or light bronzers. And, of course, it is important to ensure that the shading is very thorough and soft. Use a small, fluffy natural bristle brush for this purpose.

If you have oily or oily skin, use only dry products when you do cheekbones and facial contours with dark shades.

Light products can be used cream and liquid. But they must be selected according to the type of skin. In addition, they must be durable. After application, it is desirable to fix the result with powder.

It is important to ensure that the correction does not go beyond the hairline (especially with zygomatic correction and darkening of areas on the forehead). Otherwise, it will be very noticeable, as it will be distributed in spots, and it will not work to shade it.

How to make a correction of the oval of the face?

The sequence of actions for correcting the shape of the face

© site

If you create a bright evening make-up for important event where you will be photographed, it is advisable to make a correction with products with a creamy texture and apply them under the foundation

In this case, you can not be afraid of the intensity of the color. The tone will provide a neat transition from light to shadow and smooth edges of the shading. Visually, the correction will be present, but the intensity will go away, and on the camera, on the contrary, it will appear.

For regular evening make-up, the correction is done on a foundation to avoid sharp transitions and spots.

Gently blend the product with a brush with a typed tone or sponge. The result should look like a light haze and should not be noticeable in any way.

AT daytime makeup let's say a light bronzer or blush applied with a fluffy brush

In daylight, errors in the application of funds are very clearly visible, so it is better to avoid dark correction.

The correction scheme that is right for you is always individual, as it directly depends on the shape of the face (we discussed this issue in detail). But nevertheless, there are general rules that are relevant for everyone.

Face Correction Rules

• On the Internet you can find a large number of schemes and recommendations for correction, but they all boil down to the fact that “sharp corners” should always be rounded off. If you have a too sharp chin, too high a hairline at the corners of your forehead, or too wide cheekbones, then it is advisable to darken these areas. Thus, the visual perception of the face will be reduced only to its light areas, the shape will become oval, and the contours of the face will become softer, the cheekbones will narrow.
• If your face is round or wide, or there are other reasons why you want to “stretch” it vertically, then apply a corrector a couple of tones lighter than your skin on the T-zone, forehead and chin. The problem will be solved!
• One of the favorite topics of beauty bloggers is still “cheekbones like Kim Kardashian”. Such a correction scheme is built on a sharp contrast of light and shadow. This effect can be achieved by highlighting the area above the cheekbone and darkening the area below it. Above the cheekbone, a light corrector is applied in the form of a triangle, which begins under the eyes, goes to the temple and ends at the wings of the nose. A dark corrector is applied to the "failure" under the cheekbone and very carefully shaded upwards.

Nose reshaping with cosmetics

With the help of a sculpting agent, you can visually shorten, narrow or, conversely, lengthen and expand the nose:

Want to “lower” your upturned nose a little? Proceed as shown in the diagram. To, on the contrary, slightly visually “raise” the tip of the nose, draw and carefully blend a dark line at the base of the cartilage of the nose, separating 1/4 or 1/3 from the tip of the nose with it. © site

Lip shape correction

Lip correction should be done with a tool that matches the skin tone or several shades lighter.

• With a tool that matches the skin tone, you can correct the uneven shape, shorten too “elongated” lips.
• A tool a few tones lighter - to increase the lips (apply the tool on the "hollow" above the lip, going to the upper edges, as well as on the "hollow" under the lip.

© site

Correction of skin imperfections

To correct problem areas on the skin (redness, pimples), use a tone-on-tone corrector to match your skin color. Apply foundation, and then point the corrector to problem areas. Blend with a soft brush and after drying, fix with powder.

Wrinkles, especially deep ones, as well as nasolabial folds, are corrected with a product a couple of tones lighter than the skin. Apply it to the crease or wrinkle along its entire length. In this case, you need to use a persistent product that is quickly absorbed. Don't forget to set it with translucent powder.

For more information on how to make face correction using color correctors, read the material. And watch the video below to learn how to use a special correction palette.

Black and white face correction.

Training at the Fresh Art makeup school begins with theoretical information. Lectures are necessary so that a novice make-up artist not only performs memorized actions, but also understands what, why and for what purpose he is doing. it general rule all serious make-up courses in Moscow, Kyiv, Dnipro and any other city. Moreover, at this stage, both the pencil technique and other makeup techniques do not quarrel, but productively support each other. And not only each other, but also other areas of knowledge: physics (optics), biology (anatomy), art architecture, and even mathematics. So what is the fundamental nature of the knowledge gained in the best makeup school? And how can these sciences, so far from his work, help the make-up artist?

At the very beginning of the training, makeup school teachers will remind you of the laws of optical perception. These are the features of human vision and the psyche, common to all people and used by all masters of visual art:

1. Dark objects appear smaller than they actually are.
2. Dark objects appear more distant than they really are.
3. Light objects give the impression of being larger than in reality.
4. Light objects always appear closer than they actually are.

Thus, relative to each other, all light seems close and / or large, and all dark - distant and reduced. Stylists use this law when they say that black is slimming. Makeup artists also use it - when they are faced with the task of performing facial correction. And that is why the correction is called light-shadow. It is possible due to the play of light and shadow and our perception of this play.

This is where good makeup courses begin, so not only the basic makeup artist, but every student should know the rules by heart. At makeup artist refresher courses or makeup competitions, there is simply nothing to do without this. But based on these simple laws, you will always know how to hide flaws and emphasize dignity different persons. Excessively large, undesirably protruding features that you want to hide should be darkened with a corrector or dark powder. As a rule, this applies to a heavy jaw, a large chin, a long nose and other imperfections. Expressive, graceful features deserve to be emphasized. Highlight them with a concealer, highlighter or other light tool. You can use it on the cheekbones, bridge of the nose, above the upper lip, etc.

But theoretical facts are worth little without practical skill. That is why students of the make-up school in Moscow, Kyiv, Dnipro must work them out in practical classes. Professional make-up is performed not only with cosmetics, brushes and hands of the master, but also with the head. In other words, a good makeup artist knows what he is doing, why and why. We will be happy to teach you the same in any of the branches of the Fresh Art make-up school. Moreover, the training courses are designed for different levels of training: from beginner makeup artists to experienced masters who want to develop and improve in the art of makeup.

Sculpting is a special makeup technique that allows you to visually correct the oval of the face and hide some appearance flaws: too long a nose, wide cheekbones, etc. MirSovetov highlighted the main advantages of using this technique:

1. Sculpting helps to give the face a more regular shape.
2. It is able to mask age-related skin changes, which is a very useful feature for those ladies who, for one reason or another, do not want to have plastic surgery.
3. The correct application of light and shade correction creates a semblance of expensive make-up done by hand. professional makeup artist. The main thing is to use it wisely cosmetics and blend them thoroughly.

Important Points

As a rule, experienced makeup artists use face sculpting in their practice, but this does not mean that such a skill is available only to masters. Having studied her appearance properly, having found out all the intricacies of applying corrective means and having trained enough, almost any girl can make herself a beauty without outside help. Here are some subtleties, thanks to which you can achieve excellent results:

1. To begin with, carefully study all the rules for face correction and follow them in your work.
2. After applying the funds, try to shade them as best as possible so that the transitions between the tones are smooth.
3. When you achieve what you think is a good result, take a picture in good light and take a look at yourself from the outside. So you can see some flaws, if any.
4. In work, you can use the following tools: foundation for foundation, foundation for eye shadow, concealer, powder, blush and highlighter
5. There are no strict rules for face correction, the main thing is to be able to highlight your advantages and hide your flaws. Do not be afraid to experiment a little with makeup, sooner or later you will find your perfect look.

Features of face sculpting

The main thing you need to know about corrective means is that light colors can visually enlarge and bring elements of the exterior closer, while dark ones can reduce and move them away. Usually, The following areas require clarification:

• area under the eyebrows;
• back of the nose;
• areas around the eyes;
• center of the chin;
• areas in the upper part of the cheekbones;
• depression above the upper lip and corners of the mouth.

Dark correctors are applied to the following areas:

• the lower parts of the cheekbones;
• nostrils;
• area under the chin;
• neck
• area along hair growth;
• angles of the lower jaw.

To make the makeup look harmonious, consider the following points:

1. Foundation and brightener should be combined according to color scheme. That is, if you use a foundation with a yellowish tint, then the corrector should also be a yellowish tone.
2. The brightener should be 2 tones lighter than the base - so the face will look natural.
3. To hide minor imperfections in appearance, such as redness, pigmented formations or pimples, use a corrector of the same color as the skin.
4. Be sure to consider the texture of the applied funds. If you use dry correctors, then first cover your face with foundation, then powder, and then proceed to sculpting. If you are using a creamy concealer, it must be applied to clean skin, blend and top with a layer of powder.
5. To make the image natural, do not forget to carefully rub the boundaries between different shades funds used.

Options for using a brightening corrector

1. Applying the product to the inner corners of the eyes will help open up the look. This use of clarifier is suitable for almost any appearance. It is not necessary to pre-apply a tonal foundation to these areas, since the skin there is very thin and sensitive.
2. For those who have under their eyes dark circles, you can apply a clarifier in the outer corners of the eyelids. After applying the product, it is shaded towards the cheekbones. Highlighting the area around the eyes allows you to hide age-related skin changes and signs of fatigue. Thanks to this effect, a woman looks several years younger. So that the corrector does not gather in the folds of the eyelids and wrinkles, it can be used together with a small amount of cream.
3. If you have small or close-set eyes, apply the highlighter under the lower lids and blend it in an inverted triangle shape.
4. The following technique will help to make the skin younger: draw lines over the nasolabial folds with a light corrector and gently tap the product into the skin with gentle patting movements.
5. Small wrinkles on the forehead can also be covered with a small amount of brightener and with the help of the above movements, let it soak a little.
6. To make the lips appear more voluminous and attractive, outline them with a light outline. In the same way, you can hide small facial wrinkles and various skin irregularities. You need to outline the lips as carefully as possible.
7. If you have drooping corners of your mouth, you can correct this with a small amount of brightener applied to these areas. On top of the corrector, you need to apply a tonal foundation.
8. Such a disadvantage as too small a distance between the nose and the upper lip can also be hidden with the help of a clarifier. To do this, you need to draw a contour upper lip thin line, and also apply the product to the hollow under the nose.
9. Too much wide face can be visually extended by sculpting. First of all, apply a light tone on the areas under the eyes so that an inverted triangle is obtained. Draw exactly the same triangle under the lower lip. But the cheekbones, on the contrary, should be slightly darkened with the help of a suitable shade of concealer or blush.

How to hide age with face sculpting

The make-up technique we are considering helps to hide age-related skin changes and reduces a woman's years. To achieve this effect, you need to follow some rules:

1. Use in makeup you need products with a matte texture.
2. You can give your face youth by lightening the nasolabial folds. Do not forget to cover the corrector with a layer of powder at the very end.
3. Apply a pinkish tint to the upper parts of the cheekbones - it will refresh the complexion and reduce the extra years.
4. Lowered eyelids can be corrected with the help of shadows. To do this, cover the upper eyelid with a light tone, and apply a dark shade to the outer corner and upper crease of the eye.

1 Brow highlighter:
Optically "raises" the eye. White or very light shadows are applied directly under the eyebrow and slightly shaded down.

2 Illuminator above the pupil:
Gives eyes a special chic. Glitter should be applied over the eye shadow directly above the pupil.
But remember that this gloss should not look like a spot, otherwise you will not achieve the desired effect.
This stain needs to be shaded. This option is well suited for narrow, small or deep-set eyes.

3 Clarifier in the corner of the eye:
Makes the look fresh and radiant. Not suitable for wide-set eyes

Continuing the theme of full tone, we are talking about light correction (black and white correction).
in a general sense, there are a lot of materials on this subject, Google knows everything and Yandex too. The peculiarity here is that each face is unique.
Those. there are general such schemes of light and shade correction to help beginners
like these for example

we focus on the blue contours, they mean
round - square - triangular

trapezoidal - rhomboid - elongated

contour - dark tone. glare - light. Additionally in color - scheme for blush

well, it seems like - it’s clear, here is the type of face, here is the diagram. Yes, not so. there is almost no perfect match between real faces and schematically correct ones. But sometimes it is oval with a pronounced forehead, sometimes it is a “soft square”, sometimes it is an elongated chin, sometimes it is a complex circle and much more.

How about this?

You need to create your own make-up plan. For your own person applicable.

I'll show you what I found. And I need a face right in the lens, preferably in a relaxed state. The trouble with such faces is in the public domain (does anyone need a makeup scheme? no one will provide a face without a name for this?)))

Here it is, although there is a ready-made makeup nearby, but I won’t look at it, honestly.

Let's do some toning first. It is clear that it will be necessary to even out the color and texture of the skin with a tonal tool. In addition, we look at the places of working out with a flesh-colored concealer (here we only work out the full tone, we will not touch anything else with this bride for now)

Next, look at the correction of the oval

we see, in fact, a perfect oval in shape. Outside the oval are small areas of the forehead. They do not need to be compared in color with the color of the hair, just in these areas you will need to work with dark foundation(dark powder, bronzer, foundation darker than the main one - to choose from)

Let's work out the structure along the triangle

red on the right picture - highlight zones. Blue - shading.
the nose itself and the middle part of the forehead enter the zone of the triangle. We can highlight them with a body concealer on top of the tone, or use a highlighter (more light powder, powder with reflectors) at the end.
chin - the lower part of the face is quite rounded, it will not be bad to point the chin forward a little. Those. visually bring the tubercle closer to us, causing a glare there (light tone)
on the other hand, the chin has sagging and the lower part of the face can be more rigidly formed - we apply a dark tone there, visually moving away the rounded and sagging places from us, shading.
on the cheeks of the figure eight - this is, in general, blush. I already wrote about them here, but then I erased them, I won’t stop now.

Nose
no, it is not large, and its shape is normal, just since we are doing it, we will select it in a sharper one and slightly raise the tip

remember that we have already marked the nose with a light tone for study, now we will add shadows to the wings and light shading along the edge of the nose.

Well, if you do not go into details, then in general, everything.

Compare with what we have in the picture of the full make-up

Well, we think quite the same way with a make-up artist. Pay attention - the nose is sharper on the make-up face. At the tip of the chin, the darkening is even visible. A triangle is also visible on the cheeks. The line under the eyes is toned into an even pancake. The nasolabial fold is also corrected, on a clean face the crease from the nose is deeper, although there is a calm face, and the bride in makeup is smiling. Well, nothing else is visible here, something is unsuccessful, I probably took a photo. There is more glitter than lines ... The blush is still glowing, and even the forehead is not pronounced with makeup, although it is)

This is how the diagrams are made.
let's go step by step without pictures.
1. completely tint the face with the main color (basic tone)
2. we outline and work on the areas of natural depressions (eyes, chin, depressions at the nostrils of the nose, possibly lips, nasolabial folds, there can be many things, our own characteristics) We work on these areas with a tone lighter than the main one. In a general sense, this is a body concealer in the same tone as foundation, but lighter than it.

we did a full toning.

3. We work with an oval. Everything that is outside the ideal oval is shaded (a tone darker than the main one is used - dark powder, bronzer) Pay attention to the forehead, chin, cheekbones)
4. We work with the structure and the triangle inside - we highlight the convex, we shade what interferes with us for the triangle. We use the same tools.
5. final touches - highlighter (I did not show it here)

_______________________________
while I was looking for pictures, I came across discussions in some women's forum, and there the author of the topic gave light correction schemes, spoke in three words about the means, and the conclusion was this - of course, no one plasters like that every day, this is for special cases, if necessary look perfect.
I got so hooked. Especially "plastering". This is a completely normal and quite simple correction. And I don’t see anything difficult to work out like this on a face every day. By the way, my minimal make-up, which I really do every day, is a full tone, eyebrows and blush in full, and eyes and lips in a light version.
use for full tone -
foundation or bb
concealer under the eyes and to eliminate light pigmentation on the eyelids.
concealer near the nostrils.
Basic translucent powder
dark powder for the oval and nose.
and a highlighter near the eyes, nose-forehead, the area from the inner corner of the eye to the cheek.

And it takes me about 7 minutes. Nothing complicated, to be honest. And my own husband perceives my minimum - "have you decided not to paint today?". Because the eyes are not fully worked out, for him this, apparently, is a defining touch. When I once showed how "I didn't put on make-up today", he decided that it's very difficult to be a girl)))) I assure you, it's not difficult, and it's not tons of plaster. Everything is very easy and natural according to the pattern worked out over the years, with precise strokes.
You don't have to be afraid of it. We must try everything.