How to make a piping on a pillow. Finishing the edges of decorative pillows. What you need to know right away

Sewing pillows with your own hands means not only saving on bedding, but also decorating your interior, giving it a personality with simple and inexpensive means. Looking at photos of homemade pillows on the Internet, it may seem that a lot of experience or innate talent is needed here. But the same tasks can be solved much easier, and certainly, when sewing pillows, there is an opportunity to go from simple to complex, eventually creating things worthy of prizes at exhibitions of amateur art. This article is intended to help readers overcome several stages of this path.

What you need to know right away

It is not always possible to sew original pillows as simple sleeping pillows, in the form of a base and pillowcases. That's why special attention should be paid to the choice of fabric and padding. The pillow is conducive to sleep, and someone will fall asleep on it sometime. Probably tired, with unwashed and unkempt hair; That is, the sheathing fabric should not only accept the finish well, but also be amenable to cleaning. And best of all, the stuffing can be removed and the cover washed without spoiling its decor. In addition, the stuffing itself should retain hygienic qualities, elasticity and be moderately pliable for as long as possible. We will return to pillow materials that meet these requirements, but for now we will discuss ways to decorate them from simple to complex, keeping the above in mind.

Pillow Decorating Methods

Colors

The easiest way to sew decorative pillows in the same way as ordinary sleeping pillows is to choose the color of the fabric. And the simplest of the simplest solutions - several pillows of different colors, forming an ensemble inscribed in the interior. In this way, you can not only turn the boudoir of a cocotte into something similar to a soft fluffy cloud, but also express the individuality of laconic interior styles. Such work, I must say, is mentally very difficult, but technologically and financially elementary. For example, on the left in Fig. the sofa with a composition of pillows is not in vain placed against the backdrop of a window (picture?) with live greenery contrasting with the general tone, and the flower in a vase is placed to the right of the sofa for good reason.

In the center in Fig. method based on similar aesthetic principles, but not requiring a laconic interior and a special organization for the placement of its items. The point here is that the background of the upholstery of the furniture and the upholstery of the pillow is the same, as well as the tone and density of the pattern here and there, but the patterns of the patterns are somewhat different. And the pillow is highlighted with a wide, so-called. French, edging, the same as the general background, but darker in color; the color scheme is slightly lighter on the lower and side parts of the furniture upholstery.

Finally, on the right in Fig. shows a way to give the pillow a choice of fabric colors, as they say, aesthetic self-sufficiency, i.e. the ability to express the meaning inherent in it by the craftswoman in any situation. Imagine such a pillow in ... a garbage dump. Will she look worse? And the point here is not only and not so much in the choice of 2-3, no more, catchy flowers that make up a fairly large pattern, but also in the arrangement of stylized images of flowers on the visible surface of the thing.

Applications and printing

Only a little more technically, but no less expressive, can be decorating pillows with appliqués. Here, as before. case, the key to success is the artistic taste of the author and, preferably, the combination of at least 2 things in an ensemble, and, unlike the use of colors, its meaning can be absolutely clear up to frivolity, as on the left in a row of photos, but obscene morally healthy a person in this composition will see no more than in normal marital relations.

A detailed, multi-valued composition of pillows with appliqués is technically more difficult to perform, and there is a risk of falling into flickering. However, today photo printing on fabric is affordable, and the images are durable and of the same quality as the texture of the material allows. So, when considering a multi-cushion group with pictures, first of all, it is worth considering the option of photo printing on blanks, in the center in the figure, especially since you can select / create pictures and simulate the entire ensemble in advance on a computer.

Note: modern technique of photo printing on fabric allows you to create images that are visually equivalent to embroideries. Patches with printed pictures can also form the basis of the application, on the right in fig.

Shape and Fragment

Most good designers prefer to work with form, considering it to be the root cause of the expressiveness of things, and color, texture and pattern / pattern as factors of the next orders. One-two-three-tone sofa cushions, the aesthetic value of which is achieved by the form, can also be technologically uncomplicated (pos. 1 in the figure) thanks to the use of modern materials, see below.

Working with the form, it becomes possible to apply a new approach to the meaningful decoration of things: modularity, pos. 2. Technologically, in this case, only the labor intensity increases monotonously without the appearance of fundamental difficulties, since all modules assembled into the product are structurally similar and simple. But in such cases, you need to think about how to clean it, unless there is a desire to completely redo it at least once every 1-2 years. A furniture vacuum cleaner and cleaning products for it are understandable, but it is necessary to use them less frequently.

The modular principle also allows, without a significant increase in labor intensity, to create sewn things of a simple form, in which the form nevertheless works for aesthetics. This is the so-called. patchwork technique; simply - patchwork. Patchwork is not necessarily something deliberately rough, rough, even clumsy.

Decorative pillows using the patchwork technique can be sewn gracefully and neatly without painful reflections and looking at samples / sketches to the pain in the eyes, pos. 3 and 4. All you need is a key element (mainly in the center), which is in harmony with the overall design of the thing, but also stands out in something. At pos. 3 this is achieved by a pattern of the same tone, but much larger than that of the elements of one diagonal and at the same time, of course, smaller than the solid color fill of the squares of the other. And on pos. Key 4, on the contrary, is distinguished by its shape, small size and relief (bulge).

Key element

In general, a compact key element (elements) is able to give grace to a pillow made in any technique. For example, at pos. Fig. 1, the key is a simple button combined with a twist of patches of fabric with a trivial black and white geometric pattern, down to scraps of an old mattress. In the case of using a brighter and more colorful material instead of a button covered with fabric, it is possible that better fit button with a round pleated bow, pos. four.

At pos. 2 tassels and a button ennoble cushions in modestly colored fabric. This approach is attractive in that it is possible to use furniture upholstery and even technical fabrics that do not get dirty easily, clean well, but are not produced bright and shiny. And on pos. 3 is an example of how brushes add aesthetic value to a pillow with a pattern that is too small for this purpose. Perhaps the larger pattern did not suit the overall design, but the pillow still needed decorative self-sufficiency, so the brushes came to the rescue.

Note: a single brush on the corner of the pillow can play, without losing its aesthetic value, a purely utilitarian role, hiding the last seam, see below. In this case, it can be successfully replaced with a pom-pom. How to make a brush and a pompom with your own hands, see next. fig., but in general, with tassels and pompoms as numerous elements of the main decoration of pillows, you need to be more careful, see below.

Lace, knitting and embroidery

All these ways of decorating pillows (see fig.) have in common that things, on the one hand, are laborious and difficult to perform (unless ready-made lace or organdy is used). On the other hand, lace and knitted cushions on the sofa provide not only a magnificent aesthetic effect, but also respect with prestige: complex high-quality work speaks for itself. Moreover, all such things are cleaned and washed many times: people have been weaving lace and knitting for centuries; both craftsmanship is quite adapted to washing much more harshly than in a modern washing machine with synthetic detergents.

Knitted sofa cushions have another advantage: the last seam is masked without any difficulties, see below. And by the way, thanks to the same circumstance, knitted decorative pillows can be very easy to make if you sew them from old sweaters, as on the right in Fig.

About knitwear

Knitwear as a material for covering the pillow retains all the advantages of knitted items, incl. the ability to conduct a hidden facial seam. It also has its own special merits. Firstly, the softness of the surface - wool sometimes “bites” the face, and knitting from mohair or down is more difficult. Secondly, accessibility: who hasn’t had to guess what to do with a grown-up child’s sweaters-blouses? Stuff with holofiber (see below), sew up the armholes, embellish a little - and in an hour and a half a good original pillow made from improvised materials is ready, see fig. Whether it fits in the living room is a matter of general design, but as a pillow in the nursery it will be quite in its place. You can also sleep on it without risking button prints on your cheek: turn it over, and that's it.

About embroidery on pillows

For those who know how to embroider, a pillow is a fertile canvas in all respects, see fig.:

If you want to embroider over the entire field, you will need a special hoop in the form of a frame; the canvas in it is stretched (unhoisted) with harsh threads. Drawing, pattern - everything is at your discretion and skill, but there are some features compared to embroidery of other things:

No need to embroider with beads, it will be unhygienic and uncomfortable. It is impossible to completely remove particles of dirt from the holes in the beads using any known methods of cleaning pillows, and lying down on the beaded surface is also not very pleasant;
Cross-stitch: satin stitch embroidery under the head/body quickly gets dirty and slips, and wrinkles when washed;
When embroidering all over the field, make a continuous wide edging: it is just as easy to hide the last seam in it as in a knitted pillow.

Relief

Relief decor: fringe, bows, frills, puffs, intarsia, weaving, voluminous applications(patches), quilting, etc., etc., see fig. - widely used for finishing pillows, because. allows you to achieve stunning aesthetic effects. However, when starting your first (or next) masterpiece, keep in mind, firstly, that to create beauty by the method “I want a lot of everything! And more!”, is not true in principle. You need to understand what you feel, what you want, and express it in the means available to you. Which do not necessarily have to be tricky and intricate.

Secondly, remember - you are not the trusted seamstress of the Marquise Pompadour or the Countess de Monsoreau. The charm created by your own hands, which you once could not even erase. And the point is not only whether this thing will withstand washing, but also whether the machine will withstand washing such a thing. Not that, the hour is uneven, you will have to master interesting, but by no means simple ways of repair washing machines. Tassel fringe can still be torn off and sewn on again, but for a soiled, labor-intensive pom-pom pillow, it’s hard to think of something better than throwing it away and making a new one. If the spirit is enough for it after such an opportunity.

However, to dissuade people from striving for beauty is meaningless, and worthless. So about every case in Fig. above - 2 ways to make roses from felt or cotton pads. Such flowers, if necessary, are easy to rip, and then re-sew. Or just make new ones to replace worn ones.

And in fig. on the right - advice about bows: take the same principle of conciseness as a basis, it will never fail, and make bows simple so that they can be untied and tied to take care of the pillow. That pillow is made of burlap, but does it look?

About puffs

Puffs on a suitable fabric, smooth and glossy, are another matter. Properly made, they can be vacuumed and washed by hand without any problems. And to make all this splendor is not at all as difficult as it seems. First you need to learn how to read the schemes for assembling puffs (assembling them, as the sewers say).

For an example, schemes for assembling simple puffs are given in fig. below. All puff schemes are built on an orthogonal-diagonal grid, the module of which (the side of the square) is 2-7 cm, depending on the size of the product and the density of the fabric. The grid in the diagram can be shown explicitly, as on the right in the figure, or its nodes are only marked with dots, as on the left. The mesh is applied to the inside of the workpiece with a textile marker in a mirror image.

Further, the areas that are pulled together (collected, collected) into a puff are marked either with converging arrows (on the left) or red lines (on the right), and those that are not pulled together are marked with simple thin lines. You can collect puffs either with one thread or separately. The first way is for the lazy, because a web of threads is formed from the inside. In any case, each puff is assembled with at least 3 stitches 4-5 mm wide, unless otherwise indicated in the notes to the diagram.

Then, the assembly sequence. It is produced in horizontal or vertical rows, again, unless otherwise indicated in the description of the scheme. In the case when the rows are indicated explicitly (on the left), they are displayed in the order of numbering and puffs in the row are also collected by numbers; here - Row1 1-2, 3-4, etc., then the same Row2 and so on. In the absence of an explicit indication of the rows (on the right), the puffs will be assembled simply in the order of numbering; according to the diagram on the right - 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, etc.

Try to collect any piece of fabric in puffs according to these entry-level schemes, and you will see that it will take a little time, even if you collect one at a time. And then watching a selection of master classes on making pillows with puffs that are much more spectacular and complex will not seem like a nightmarish horror:

Video: do-it-yourself puff pillows, master classes

About figurine pillows

The principle “You don’t need a lot of things! And sooner!” especially appropriate for decorative pillows, aesthetically working primarily in form. They are often sewn according to patterns for soft toys, forgetting that a sewn cat cannot wash itself under its tail. And he will have to take on not only room dust, but also grease. Possibly, especially if we are talking about children's pillows, so to speak, salvo emissions of pollution of biogenic origin.

On children's pillows, in addition, not only jump and ride on them; they not only fight and throw them, they also sleep on them. And sleep, leaning sideways, with a head that has moved to one side, is not useful to the emerging skeleton. This should be especially taken into account when sewing a children's toy pillow; For example, we give patterns in Fig.

On the left is a fish pillow. The shape and technique of execution seem to be chosen correctly: it is quite subject to care, the last seam can be covered with a tail or fins. But - the head of a sleeping person can slide to one side, a shoulder will stretch behind it and it turns out that we are sleeping crouched. An owl pillow is free from this drawback, at the top right: the “ears” will be held. Whoever tosses and turns in a dream is better to put such a pillow with a deflection between the “ears” to the neck; this pattern is easy to adapt for a cat pillow, only without a tail. In either case, for better ergonomics, it is desirable to make a diagonal cut as a bedding, see below.

Note: for kids - indefatigable sleepy little spinners on the right below, a pattern of a special pillow, on which the child learns to sleep on his back or on his side, freely stretched out.

Pillows in the form of letters (see Fig.) Moved even closer from pillows to soft toys than figurine pillows: there are a lot of dips in them, where to sleep there. It is believed that letter pillows are educational, developing, etc. Well, except for the coordination of movements and orientation in space, to climb between them big, like in a maze. As for the speedy learning to read and write, science has not yet been confirmed. Nevertheless, no harm from pillows in the form of letters was also noted, and fun for the child is already good for him.

Large letter cushions must hold their shape well and withstand the corresponding operational stresses, with which little users show amazing ingenuity. One of the variants of this kind of construction is shown in Fig.:

Foam 45 is the highest density furniture foam; we will talk about what holofiber is below. Of course, other ways of sewing letter pillows are also possible, see for example. next video.

Note: diagram in fig. also suitable for stuffing pillows, rolls, if you want to get their ends rounded.

Video: do-it-yourself letter pillows, manufacturing option

About puzzle pillows

Pillow in the form of elements of prefabricated mosaic paintings Puzzle is also quite popular. It is believed that if necessary, a mattress can be assembled from them. You can collect something, yes, yes. But anyone who has tried to sleep on such a mattress knows: it is impossible, it is spreading under you. Pillows, unlike puzzle pieces, are soft, pliable, otherwise not pillows, but some kind of bunks will turn out.

Materials and technique

The fact that when sewing it is necessary to give lapels of 20-30 mm, iron them, sew from the inside out and then turn the product inside out, etc., which is well known, we will not spread. Let's talk in this section about things that beginner seamstresses are not always aware of.

Textile

To properly sew a pillow without a pillowcase that is comfortable, hygienic, practical and durable, you need to choose the right fabric. Firstly, particles of dirt should not stick to its fibers so that they can be sucked out with a vacuum cleaner without the use of detergents. Secondly, the lining fabric should, as far as possible, prevent the migration of dirt into the packing, which is difficult to clean and change. Silk, satin, crepe-satin and their synthetic counterparts satisfy these conditions from light, smooth and bright textile materials. From light, but soft - coarse calico, baize and other linen fabrics. From rough, but very durable - any furniture upholstery materials. Also, depending on the style of execution, it is possible to use any technical fabrics, except, perhaps, propylene matting and the like - too slippery, but at the same time rough and harsh.

Warp and weft

When cutting a pillow, the orientation of the warp and weft threads of the fabric matters. Orthogonal (straight) orientation, when the warp and weft are oriented perpendicular (along) resp. sides, allows you to more accurately maintain the shape of the pillow according to the pattern. But, if a straight-cut pillow with sharp corners is stuffed with sufficiently dense material, its corners may be empty and sag, pos. 1 in fig.

In pillows with a diagonal cut (warp and weft - at 45 degrees to the sides), the corners will always be full, but a “waist” will appear larger than provided by the pattern, pos. 2. If the pillow is elongated, the thinnest "waist" will be on the long sides, pos. 3, which is not always desirable. In this case, the use of satin or twill weave fabric will help to give the pillow a pleasant fullness, pos. four.

Stuffing

However, the feather/down padding is, firstly, not resilient enough to decorative pillows, they are not beaten like sleeping ones, because of the imminent damage to the finish from such treatment. Secondly, small soft feathers and natural down for stuffing pillows are hard to reach. In the old days, the whole family collected feathers and down for the wedding featherbed (an indispensable attribute of the dowry) for the future bride.

Nowadays, almost ideal stuffing materials for pillows have been developed - syntepuh and holofiber. In terms of hygiene, they are not inferior to swan's down; however, not for the lifetime of generations, but up to 7-10 years. On the other hand, the pillow decor is no longer alive. But these materials have an undoubted advantage: they are moderately elastic and retain this quality for years.

In essence, sintepukh and holofiber are the same material based on the finest tangled polyester fibers; This is the same polyethylene terephthalate (PET) used to make food utensils and bottles. Sintepuh is produced in the form of fluffy granules (on the left in the figure), and holofiber undergoes additional molding and goes on sale in sheets (plates), on the right there.

Sheet holofiber keeps its shape no worse than the best furniture foam rubber. By the way, in letter pillows (see above), you can make the entire base out of it, but it will cost a lot: sheet holofiber is much more expensive than foam rubber, and the material waste in this case is large. But where sheet holofiber is indispensable is in the manufacture of cloud pillows, etc. of complex irregular shape: the workpiece must be cut off with scissors, and then covered with a cloth without a pattern in place.

Another stuffing material particularly suitable for baby pillows is round silicone granules. They don't get wet, this time. Two - silicone granules can be poured into the cover through an armhole that is only 2-4 cm wide, which greatly simplifies the problem of the last seam. Three - the cover from them can be emptied through the same armhole, and the granules can be washed by hand in a basin. In the car - in no case, it will fail instantly! Washed and dried silicone granules can be put back into the same bag; the pillow will be the same as before.

Note: to expanded polystyrene granules, which fill frameless furniture, all of the above regarding the sanitary and hygienic properties of silicone granules does not apply.

Last seam...

... he is the most difficult. You probably already guessed that this is the very seam that needs to be sewn up from the face when the pillow is already inside out and stuffed. Usually for this it is recommended to sew a zipper in advance. With regard to, say, a pear chair or other frameless furniture, this is really the best option.

But the pillow does not have a bottom and a back, on which they never sit, do not sleep, do not lean on them, and waking up with the imprint of a fastener on your cheek is useless under any circumstances. As for the representatives of the stronger sex, a pillow with a zipper is able to cling to their mustache, beard and just 3-5 day stubble. The pillow sticking to the personality harmonizes perfectly with the rumpled physiognomy, but only in a comical sense.

There is no problem at all with knitted, knitted and embroidered pillows with edging, if the thread for the last seam is taken to match the material of the face: stitches of only 1-2 mm in this case are completely drawn into it and turn out to be quite strong. Good options are also a solid narrow textile piping in tone with the general color, see fig., lace or pleated border, inlay, etc. However, the universal solution for the last seam is a narrow, 2-4 cm, armhole in the corner. Through it, you can fill the pillow with sintepuh or silicone granules, and mask the front seam with a brush or pompom. Sintepukh, if necessary, is pulled out in shreds with a crochet hook. At first, silicone granules are simply squeezed out, like paste from a tube, and their remainder is removed from the inside-out case.

About seamless pillows

Representatives of nomadic professions and residents of student hostels from times up to the middle of Khrushchev's have long been familiar with such people. beautiful scarf allows you to make decorative seamless pillows in just minutes; the basis can be either an ordinary pillow or a piece of foam rubber cut in shape or just a lump of rags. How this magnificent illustration of the saying “Need for inventions is cunning” is created is shown in the figure:

You can tie a curly knot or straighten its ends into a socket and grab it with threads; however, this will be a formal violation of the “seamless” principle. In this case, something like a rose from those described above will also fit in the center.

In Conclusion: Form Functionality

Thursday, November 13, 2014 00:09 + to quote pad

Quite often, when sewing lambrequins, bedspreads and other decorative elements, for example, decorative pillows, are used to finish the edging with a cord.

Let us dwell in more detail on how to sew such an edging around the perimeter of a decorative pillow.

We cut a square of the desired size, not forgetting to add 2 cm for allowances. If the pillow is 40x40cm, then we cut the square 44x44cm. This will be the front of the pillow. To make it easier to sew a piping, we round the corners.

The back of the pillow consists of two parts connected by a zipper. The zipper allowance is 1cm and 3cm. For the back side of the pillow, I try to cut out the details more, then I build it along the top. If there is enough fabric, then you can simply cut out a 46x50cm rectangle and cut it into two parts, for example 46x30cm and 46x20cm. Or look at the circumstances, if you have small remnants of fabric, the main thing is that in the end, after the zipper is sewn on, the back of the pillow should not be less than 44x44cm.

After the zipper is sewn, lay out the back of the pillowcase, and lay the top (front) part on top and set both parts along the top.

Then we take the upper part with the right side up, put the piping on it with the wrong side up, retreating from the cut of the part by 5 mm (this is done so that later we can easily overcast the seam), and sew the piping as close as possible to the cord with a one-sided foot.

For reference: the front side of the edging

Wrong side of the edge

In order to make it easier to sew on the edging on the roundings, we cut the braid in several places.

We join the cord as shown in the photo below.

Now we connect both parts of the pillowcase together. To do this, we fold them with the front sides inward and scribble close to the cord along the first line. If it works out, then it's good if the line goes to the left of the first one.

Overcast the seam.

We turn out the pillowcase. As you can see, the braid remained visible.

In order for only the cord to remain visible, let's do the following: first, lay a line along the back of the pillowcase. At the same time, we turn the allowance onto the back, and let the fabric in so that the fold runs close to the cord, we also scribble as close to the cord as possible.

And now we do the same, only by front side pillowcases.

Here's what should happen.

It remains to sew the pillow (you can use the remnants of the stitch), fill it with holofiber

And put on a ready-made pillowcase.

Sincerely, Oksana Fadeeva.

How to sew sofa cushion with border

Cushion covers often have a decorative border or elegant border around the edges. The latter is considered the most in a simple way finishing the edges of the pillows, since it is made from the same pieces of matter as the details of the cover. Making such a pillow is not difficult. True, on a cover with a border trim, it is impossible to make a fastener in one of the edge seams, so it must be fastened at the back with buttons, a zipper, or pieces of Velcro tape. For such a pillow, you will need a fabric for the cover, a fastener of your choice, an inner pillow in a pillowcase, a basic set of tools and accessories for sewing.

1. Marking the curb

Cut out the details of the desired size, adding on all sides 6 cm for the border and another 1.5 cm for the seams. Sew the cover in the same way as you would for a regular square pillow with a closure in the middle of the back piece. Turn the cover right side out. Make a markup on the front part: with a tailor's chalk, draw lines 6 cm from all edges of the cover. Lay a basting along these lines.

2. Connecting parts

Paste in sewing machine double needle and sew along the double seam basting. If your machine does not have such a device, sew with a regular needle on both sides of the basting: try to keep the lines parallel, 3-5 mm apart. Delete the note. Iron the cover and insert the pillow.

How to sew a sofa cushion with scallops

The edges, finished with rounded, scalloped or rectangular scallops, greatly decorate the pillow. For such a finish, separate parts with scallops are cut out and then sewn to the main parts of the pillow. Can be trimmed with a contrasting color fabric.

To make a scalloped case, you need fabric for the front and back, fabric for the trim strips, an inner cushion, a clasp, a simple compass or beaker for marking the scallops, and the usual set of sewing tools and supplies.

1. Layout of parts

Lay the pattern of the front piece on the wrong side of the finishing fabric. Draw a line along the fabric, determining the width of the trim. Add 1 cm from the edge of the pattern for a seam allowance. Circle all sides of the pattern with a pencil, remove it from the fabric. Repeat these operations on the second part of the cover.

2. Marking the seams

Using a measuring tape and a square, draw the second lines on the details, parallel to the first, 1.5 cm closer to the center, along all 4 sides.

3. Cutting out the finishing piece

From the middle of the front and back parts intended for decoration, cut a piece of fabric that can later be used to make a small pillow. If the flap cut from the middle is laid on the main part of the cover, it should be 1.5 cm smaller on all sides than the seam line of the main part. If there is not enough fabric and you are not embarrassed by the seams on the finish, you can not cut out the frame, but finish from individual strips of fabric, processing the corners with a bent cut.

4. Marking the edge

Cut a strip of paper the same length and width as one side of the trim piece. Mark it into segments equal to the width of the scallop so that the strip begins and ends with a whole scallop. If necessary, slightly change the width of the scallop.

5. Pattern marking

Along the edge of the paper strip marked into segments, draw arcs between the dividing lines using a glass or compass. The arcs should not be deep: it is enough to outline 1/3 of the rim of the glass. Carefully cut the template along the marked arcs.

6. Marking the fabric

Lay the trim piece inside out. Align the straight edge of the template with the inner edge of the frame, pin the pattern with the fabric with pins. Circle the scallops with a pencil on the pattern. Repeat this operation on the other three sides of the trim piece.

7. Seaming edges

Place the 2 trim pieces right sides together, trimming the edges. Chip, sweep and grind the parts, stepping back 5 mm from the curved lines of the marking of the scallops and parallel to them on all four sides. Remove the note.

8. Cutting the allowance

Trim the fabric along the marked lines of the scallops. Make notches along the edges so that the seam lines are not bulky, do not bulge and do not shrink when the product is turned inside out.

9. Finishing stitch

Turn the trim piece right side out and iron. To make the edges flatter, lay finishing stitches along the scalloped edge in 3 rows, at a distance of 6 mm from the edge and with an interval of 6 mm between the lines.

10. Sewing on trim

Lay the finished trim on the front side of the front of the cover, align the edges, chip, baste and stitch. Remove the basting, cut the corners. Follow the rest of the steps to make the pillow.

Sewing a zipper onto a decorative pillow case

Pillowcases for decorative pillows are usually sewn with zippers. Let's look at how you can sew a zipper so that it is almost invisible.

I try to place the zipper almost in the middle of the pillowcase with a slight offset, but since pillowcases are usually sewn from the remnants of the fabric, I have to cut it out as it turns out.

First you need to overcast the sections and iron them on the wrong side. I iron the lower part by 1-1.5 cm,

Upper - by 2.5-3 cm.

The bottom part is attached first. I put it on the zipper with an ironed fold close to the spiral and sew as close to the zipper as the machine foot allows.

Then I put the top part on top so as to overlap the bottom one by 1 cm and lay the line close to the zipper spiral.

Here's what should happen.

The main thing is not to forget before sewing the front and back of the pillowcase, open the zipper and fasten the top and bottom of the back along the cut.

And this is what it looks like in the finished product.

Hello my dear)). Today I want to write a short post about how sew a piping. I needed to sew on a piping when I wanted to embellish jeans that I made for my child. And I want to note that it is precisely such small details on clothes as a piping, an interesting facing, unusual pockets that make "simply" trousers - "stylish" jeans.

Kant is being made very simple, because it is just a strip of fabric that is sewn into the seam of the product (in my case, into the side seam of jeans).

Therefore, I will not write about abstract things, but I will show you with a concrete example.

For this:

We measure the length of the side seam in the product
Cut out a strip of fabric (see item 1 in the photo below), from which the piping will be made with a length = the length of the side seam and a width = (and here we will now calculate the desired width).

How to determine the width of the edge?
For example: if you want the edging from the seam to “peep out” by 3 mm, then we take into account that we fold the strip of fabric in half and lay 6 mm on it. Now, to this value, you also need to add the amount of allowances, I laid allowances of 1 cm on these jeans, so we add another 2 cm for allowances, in total: 2.6 cm is the width of the piping.
If you have allowances of 1.5 cm + the desired visibility of the edge, for example, 5 mm, then we calculate in the same way: (1.5 + 0.5) × 2 = 4 cm, etc.

Fold the strip in half along the length and iron (see item 2 in the photo below)
We apply the finished edging to the front side of the product (in my case, on the front side of the front of the trousers on the side cut) and sew at a distance of 1 cm from the side cut. (see item 3 in the photo below)

Now we fold the front and back of the trousers face to face, combining them along side seam, we sew clearly into the line with which the edging was sewn.

We process the inner cut with a zigzag or overlock and iron the seam from the front side.

Here is such a beautiful side seam turned out, and without piping it would be completely unremarkable:

How to sew a voluminous edging to the product?

As a rule, such a voluminous edging is used when sewing pillows, blankets, etc.

In this case, we lay a lace in the finished edging, which will add volume.

How to calculate the width of the volume edging?
When calculating, add the amount of allowances to 1 cm.

We sew such an edging with a special foot for sewing a zipper.

If the edging is sewn in a circular pattern (as on a pillow), then you need to carefully dock it in the “beginning-end” place. We impose on each other and start the continuation of the edge in the allowance area. We cut off the excess.

With the recommendations in this article, you will not only learn how to sew your own cushion covers with rollers, but you will also be able to learn a technique that will help you make various products: potholders, napkins and much more using decorative roller trim. All this will make your home cozy and beautiful. For work, you can use the leftover fabrics. After you understand the principles of making rollers, you can sew any thing decorated with it.

To sew a pillow with a roller around the perimeter, you will need:

Cord (you can buy it at a sewing store), long enough to frame the entire perimeter of the pillow (take a margin),
- about 1 square meter of the main fabric, which will go on the pillowcase. Calculate the dimensions based on the size of your pillow,
- universal zipper, a few centimeters shorter than the length of the pillow,
- centimeter,
- sewing and cutting accessories.

The first thing to do is measure the cord of the desired length (with a margin of 1-2 cm) and cut the fabric that will be used to make the roller.

To cut strips for the roller, measure the thickness of the cord, add 2.5 cm for the seams and mark on the fabric.

If you do not have enough strips to make the entire roller, then connect the individual strips in the following way:

Insert the cord and sew the roller as tightly as possible, retreating from the edge of at least 1 cm.

Cut 2 pieces of fabric for the pillowcase, pin the roller as shown in the photo.

Cut the fabric of the roller at the folds.

Sew the bolster to the pillowcase.

The junction of the ends of the roller looks like this:

Insert a zipper.

Sew the second side of the pillow cover.

A wonderful pillow is ready!

2 Master class "Kant on a pillow"

On the edge of the pillow part, we sew a strip of fabric cut along an oblique line, with a rope or soft wire inside

At the places of sewing to the corners of the pillow we make notches

Kant connection process:

We cut off the excess

We chop and sew the details of the pillow

Laying out two lines

Notch corners

We fill the pillow with sintepuh

We sew by hand

That's all) We admire the result)

Quite often, when sewing lambrequins, bedspreads and other decorative elements, such as decorative pillows, they use edging with a cord to finish.

Let us dwell in more detail on how to sew such an edging around the perimeter of a decorative pillow.

After the zipper is sewn, lay out the back of the pillowcase, and lay the top (front) part on top and set both parts along the top.

For reference: the front side of the edging

Decorative pillow with piping

Quite often, when sewing lambrequins, bedspreads and other decorative elements, such as decorative pillows, they use edging with a cord to finish.

Let us dwell in more detail on how to sew such an edging around the perimeter of a decorative pillow.

After the zipper is sewn on. lay out the back of the pillowcase, and lay the top (front) part on top and base both parts along the top.

For reference: the front side of the edging

wrong side of the edge

In order to make it easier to sew on the edging on the roundings, we cut the braid in several places.

We join the cord as shown in the photo below.

We turn out the pillowcase. As you can see, the braid remained visible.

And now we do the same, only on the front side of the pillowcase.

Here's what should happen.

It remains to sew the pillow (you can use the leftover stitches), fill it with halofiber

and put on the finished pillowcase.

If something is not clear, ask in the comments, I will answer all your questions.

Did you like the master class? I would be very grateful if you share this article with your friends on social networks by clicking on any button below.

Sincerely, Oksana Fadeeva.

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