Six patterns of collars with a one-piece stand. These patterns can be used as standard patterns for collars when sewing blouses or dresses, and also, given modern tendencies, they can find a slightly different application. This, of course, will be a collar in any version, but ...

Do you follow fashion? Then you understand that today you cannot do without a removable collar.

Modern detachable collar very diverse, appearance depends on the imagination of the master, and the imagination of the master is limitless. Hence lace and leather, rhinestones and pearls, sequins and beads, ribbons and feathers, etc.

For a detachable collar, you can use different types and collar patterns.

For example, in our last publication, we offered you patterns of several options. And today we offer you pattern stand-up collar with one-piece stand.

Remember that the length of the collar stitching line must correspond to the length of the neck line - this refers to the standard use of these collar patterns. Therefore, it is better to cut the collar after the first fitting, i.e. after clarifying and basing the neck line.

When using these patterns for the manufacture of an independent part - detachable collar, compare your neck measurement with the length of the collar on the template. If necessary, you can see how to change the collar pattern (increase or decrease).

In order for the collar pattern to serve you for a long time, it is better to make it from thin thick cardboard or thin plastic, etc.

Preparing a pattern for work is extremely simple. Click on the diagram at the end of the article and pattern will open in a new window.

Print the proposed collar pattern on a conventional printer, glue it in accordance with the diagram (printed on the first sheet), cut it out and the pattern is ready to go. Check the control square 10x10cm, its sides should correspond to exactly 10cm! If you have any questions, you can see the instructions for printing.

For those who want to build a pattern for a specific figure according to measured standards we have detailed step by step instructions:

Having such basic pattern you can create the most various styles dresses, skirts, etc.

Collar patterns are given without seam allowances.

When cutting, do not forget to give seam allowances and remember that the pattern of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3 mm larger than the pattern of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This will ensure a good fit and a great looking finished product.

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Collars of this type do not have a turn-down part and differ from each other mainly in the height of the stand and the design of its ends (Fig. 1a, b, c). There are stitched (cut-off) and one-piece stand-up collars, that is, we cut out as one piece with the main details of the product.
Stitched stand-up collar
The process of making a stitched stand-up collar, as well as a stand-up collar, consists of two main operations: the preparation of the collar itself and its connection with the neck of the product. Like all the collars discussed above, the stitched stand-up collar is also made double. In this case, the upper collar and collar here can be cut out in two separate parts or together, in the form of a single transverse strip that does not have a seam along the upper fold. The ends of the stitched stand-up collar can be decorated end to end, go one after the other or end with a bow tie.
All of the above design features of the stitched racks determine the differences in the methods of their processing, mainly related to
Collar blank
Option 1. When a snug fit of the collar to the neck is not required, it is made in the form of a straight strip, cut out so that its short side coincides with the direction of the warp threads of the fabric (see race 1, c).
The cut strip of fabric is folded along the length with the front side inward, as shown in Fig. 1a, the transverse sections are leveled, swept and stitched with a seam 0.75 cm wide. To form transitional edges, the seam stocks are ironed on the upper collar (Fig. 1,b). Then the collar is turned right side out and the transition edges and the top fold are finally ironed.
To give greater rigidity and long-term preservation of shape, the stand-up collar is sometimes made with a gasket.
Option 2. When the stitched stand-up collar should fit snugly around the neck e, it is recommended to make it undercut, i.e., consisting of two parts with a seam along the upper edge (see 1, b).
The preparation of a collar, consisting of two parts, is made in the same way as a stand-up collar (see Fig. 2, p. 1)
Option Z. A stand-up collar that turns into a tie (see Fig. 1, a), are performed more often on products that have a blind fastener to the top. The ends of such a collar are lengthened and, if desired, can be tied with a tie or bow.
Stand-up collar that turns into a tie cut out in the form of a straight strip of fabric, the long side of which is located at an angle of 90 or 45 ° to the direction of the warp threads. The width of the strip is taken equal to twice the height of the rack plus a processing allowance (2x0.75 = 1.5 cm). Its length should be equal to the length of the neck with an increase in the tie and its processing (allowances at the ends of 0.75 cm).
It must be borne in mind that the collar of the type in question is sewn into the neck not to the very middle of the front, but not reaching it by 1.5-2 cm on each side, which ensures the accommodation of a tie or bow knot. Therefore, before proceeding with the preparation of the collar, it is required to outline the ends of the seam, sewing it into the neck, both on the collar itself and on the product.
On fig. 3, a control notch, which determines the end of the sewing-in seam, is made on the neck of the shelf at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the line of the middle of the front. To determine the places of the corresponding notches on the collar, the length of the neck section is measured on the product from the middle of the back to the control notch (in Fig. 3 this section is shown by a thickened line), the same amount is measured on the collar in both directions from its middle along the stitching line.
'After completing the indicated marking, the collar is bent in half along the length, the cut edges are equalized and then the ends of the tie are swept and grinded with a seam 0.75 cm wide. at right angles to the cut edge, as shown in Fig. 4a. Stocks of seams in the corners formed by machine lines are notched, not bringing the cuts 0.1 cm to the line. Since in the finished collar, the seams at the ends of the tie should be located on

fold, forming a transitional edging, the allowances are ironed onto the collar exactly along the machine line (Fig. 4, b).
The prepared collar is turned right side out and, having straightened the corners, ironed from the side of the collar
Collar to neck connection

For all considered stand-up collar options the ways of stitching it into the neck are the same. Some differences are due only to the characteristics of the fabrics from which the product is made.
before sewing into the neck of the stand-up collar in the product, as usual, the shoulder seams and fasteners must be processed. The prepared collar with the inner side (i.e., collar) is applied to the wrong side of the product (Fig. 5), the ends of the collar are aligned with the edges of the fastener or control notches that determine the place where the stitching begins, and the cuts of the collar and neckline are equalized. The collar is swept from the side of the product, and the machine stitch is led along the collar, leaving a margin of 0.75 cm, which is then ironed onto the collar, as shown in Fig. 6. The trimmed edge of the upper collar is folded inside out by 0.75 cm, basted along the neck so that it covered the stitching line by 0.1 cm, after which it is adjusted at the very fold along the entire length of the collar (Fig. 7).
The advantage of the considered method of stitching the collar is its comparative simplicity, however, the stitching seam will be visible from the front side, which is not always desirable. For products made from more expensive, woolen or silk, fabrics, a different method of connecting the collar with the neck is used, in which the stitching seam is not visible from the front side of the product.
In this case, the prepared collar, in contrast to the previous ones, is applied with the outer side (i.e., the upper collar) on the front side of the product (Fig. 8), its ends are aligned with the edges of the fastener or control marks, the cuts of the collar and neckline are equalized, stitched in and then sewn in , as indicated above, and the seam is ironed onto the upper collar. The cut (lower) edge of the collar is folded inside out by 0.75 cm, basted and hemmed with manual blind stitches (Fig. 9). For greater strength of the connection, hand stitches of the collar hemming are sometimes replaced with machine stitching. In this case, the cut edge of the collar is also folded inside out, but it is basted with a transition beyond the stitching line of the upper collar by 0.1-0.2 cm (Fig. 10). Stitch the collar from the front side of the product into the groove of the seam.
Features of stitching a stand-up collar, turning into a tie, into a deep neck
Stand-up collar that turns into a tie, on a product with a deep neck (see Fig. 1, a), as in the previous case, it is a straight strip of fabric cut at an angle of 90 or 45 ° to the direction of the warp threads. Moreover, its length is the sum of the size of the neck itself and the length of both knotted ends.

Collar blank and the processing of the ends of the tie is carried out in the same way as for the previously considered collars of this type. As for the stitching operation, its feature here is the processing of the corner of the neck by turning. The prepared facing is applied with the front side on the front side of the front of the product, the cut edges are combined at the heads of the neck and the facing and basted (Fig. 11).
The corner of the neck is turned from the side of the main part with a seam 0.75 cm wide. In this case, the machine line starts from the cut at the left control mark, which determines the beginning of the collar stitching (The control marks that determine the beginning and end of the collar sewing line are marked on the neck, usually at a distance of 4 cm from its corner) then, as shown in fig. 11, lead parallel to the cuts of the neck and at the second control mark again turn perpendicular to the cut. Allowances for the seams of the neck and turning in the corners are notched, not bringing the cuts by 0.1 cm to the line (Fig. 12) and, to form a transitional edging, are ironed onto the main part (Fig. 13). 13 shows how the neck corner should look after turning it.

The techniques and sequence of stitching a collar into a deep neck are no different from those given above. They are shown: for products made of cotton fabrics in fig. 14 and 15, and from woolen and silk - in fig. 16, a and b.

STAND COLLAR(Fig. 17)

The process of making a dress stand-up collar blouses, cut as one piece with the back and shelves, is relatively complex and requires certain skills in tailoring. In addition, the range of fabrics from which a product of such a cut can be made is very limited.
The fact is that the creation of a good shape of a one-piece rack is not achieved by constructive means and requires additional wet-heat treatment (sutyuki, braces). Therefore, before choosing one or another dress model with one piece stand, it is necessary to check whether the fabric intended for sewing can withstand heat treatment. Not all fabrics with an admixture of various synthetic fibers, which are widespread at the present time, can be used for sewing products with one-piece stand-up collar.
Processing sequence
Processing of the shoulder seams of the product. Before connecting the shoulder sections, the darts along the shoulder seams of the back must be stitched. To connect the shelves to the back, they are folded front sides inside, control notches are combined, shoulder sections are equalized and swept along the back, and then grind off from the side of the shelf (Fig. 18, a).
The allowances of the shoulder seams reduced in width at the level of the neck and shoot lines (the base of the stand) and above are notched in two or three places to a depth of 0.3-0.5 cm and ironed. Sections of the wide part of the allowances of the shoulder seam are overcast with a zigzag stitch and also ironed (Fig. 18, b) or ironed towards the back (Fig. 18, c).
After grinding and final processing of the shoulder seams to give the stand-up collar a shape corresponding to the configuration of the neck, it is subjected to wet-heat treatment, i.e., sutyuzhka (seal) along the base and, if necessary, bracing along the upper edge. To assemble the excess fabric to be sutured, a machine or machine stitch is laid along the neck line with large stitches. hand stitch, on which the fabric is somewhat pulled together. After stitching, the threads of the stitch are removed, and the traces of it are removed again with the help of a wet iron and iron.
If necessary, the upper cut edges of the stand and facing are somewhat pulled back, making sure that the amount of the pull is the same on both halves of the collar. For this purpose, the product and the facing attached to it in several places are folded in half with the front side inward so that the shoulder seams are aligned, and all four sections are pulled at the same time.

The one-piece collar consists of two parts. The lower part of one-piece collars is cut out together with the shelf, and the upper part with the selection (in the selections, an extension is allowed 2.5-3 cm below the upper loop). In form, one-piece collars, like set-in collars, can be with a larger or smaller stand, close to the neck or lagging behind.

The drawings are also built on the patterns of the front of the bodice. The exception is a one-piece stand-up collar, the drawing of which is performed on the patterns of the back and front of the bodice.

1.One-piece stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

Back. Circle the main pattern of the back. The highest point of the sprout is denoted by the letter P, the bottom - R 1 . The line of the middle of the back continues up 3-4 cm (stand height) and put a point BUT:R 1 BUT= 3-4 cm

from point R up vertically lay the height of the stand on the shoulder - it is equal to the height of the stand in the middle of the back minus 1 cm; put an end to R 2 :

RR 2 = R 1 BUT- 1 = (3-4) - 1 = 2-3 cm

from point R 2 to the left horizontally and from the point R 1 cm are laid up vertically. Both points of 1 cm are connected by a smooth curve, continuing it to the shoulder cut.

Before. Outline the main pattern of the front with the shoulder tuck moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter AT, lower - AT 1 . Shoulder cut line from point AT continue to the right to the height of the rack and indicate AT 2 :

BB 2 = 2-3 cm

From a point AT 2 up at a right angle to the extended line of the shoulder, a segment is drawn equal to 1/2 of the height of the rack; put an end to AT 3 .

AT 2 AT 3 = (BB 2: 2) = (2-3) : 2 = 1-1.5cm

point AT 3 connect with a smooth curve to a point AT. The height of the rack in the middle of the front is equal to its height in shoulder section or defined by the model. The upper cut of the collar can be brought to the depth of the neck - the point AT 1 , and if in front with a clasp - decorated to the edge of the side. Control points are marked at the highest points of the sprout and neck.

2. One-piece stand-up collar lagging behind the neck.
Back. On a sheet of paper, outline the main pattern of the back. The highest point of the sprout is denoted by the letter R, lower - R 1 . Expand the sprout by 1-3 cm (point R 2):

RR 2=1-3 cm

The middle line continues upwards by 6-8 cm (stand height) and put a point BUT:

R 1 BUT= 6-8 cm

from point R 2 up vertically lay the height of the stand on the shoulder, equal to its height in the middle minus 1 cm; put an end to BUT 1 :

R 2 BUT 1 = (R 1 BUT- 1) = (6-8) - 1 = 5-7 cm

points BUT 1 and BUT connect with a smooth concave curve. If the back is with a seam, the stand line is continued to the left by 0.5 cm and the 0.5 cm point is connected under the ruler with the point R 1 .

from point BUT 1 lay to the left 0.5 cm from the point R 2 up vertically - 1 cm. Connecting the points 0.5 cm and 1 cm with a smooth concave curve, draw a line side cut racks. Control point - at the point R 2

At half the length of the new sprout line, a tuck is made. Its solution is 1 cm, the length up and down from the sprout line corresponds to the height of the rack 6-8 cm.

Before. Outline the main pattern of the front. The highest point of the neck is indicated by a dot AT, lower AT 1 . If there is a fastener, they give it to the middle of the front when starting on a half-skid with a width of 2.5-3 cm (point AT 2 ). Expand the neck by 1-3 cm (point AT 3):

BB 3=1-3 cm

from point AT 3 up vertically, a segment is drawn equal to the height of the backrest at the shoulder seam; put an end to AT 4:

AT 3 AT 4 = R 2 BUT 1=5-7cm

from point AT 4 lay 2 cm to the right horizontally, put a dot AT 5:

AT 4 B 5 = 2 cm

From point B 2 up along the extended line, the edges of the half-skid lay a segment equal to the height of the rack plus 1 cm; put an end to AT 6:

AT 2 AT 6 = (AT 3 AT 4 + 1) = (5-7) + 1 = 6-8 cm

from point AT 6 2 cm are laid to the right horizontally (point B 7):

AT 6 AT 7=2 cm

They decorate the upper and side sections of the collar, connecting the points with smooth concave curves AT 5 and AT 7 ,AT 5 and AT 3 . points AT 7 and AT 2 are connected under the ruler. Control point - at the point AT 3 .

The tucks are made for 1/3 of the length of the new neck line (excluding the half-skid). Its solution is 1-1.5 cm, the length up and down from the neckline corresponds to the height of the rack 6-8 cm.

3. Stand-up turn-down collar.

AT, lower - AT 1 .

Collar line. from point AT 1 lay 15-20 cm along the line of the middle of the front and mark the position of the upper loop. A point 15-20 cm is connected to a point AT under the ruler and continue the line up beyond the shoulder cut.

The line of stitching into the sprout. AT up lay a segment equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 cm, and put a point BUT:

AB\u003d POsh: 3 + 1 \u003d 18: 3 + 1 \u003d 7 cm

From a point BUT the perpendicular is restored to the left, on which 1.5 cm is laid (for a higher rack - 2-3 cm). Points 1.5 cm and B are connected by a slightly convex curve. Its length is compared with the length of the sprout and, if necessary, the line is continued upwards.

Medium cut. From a point BUT the perpendicular is restored to the right, on which 8 cm are laid; put an end to BUT 1:

AA 1=8 cm

point BUT 1 cross with a line parallel to the line of inclination of the collar. On it from the point BUT 1 up lay 2 cm. Points 2 cm and BUT connected by an auxiliary line.

from point BUT along the auxiliary line lay 6-14 cm and put a dot BUT 2 .

The entire width of the collar - a segment from the point 1.5 cm to the point BUT 2 is divided into 3 parts and the left division point is connected to the refined line of stitching into the sprout.

The take-off cut is drawn up with a line perpendicular to the line of the middle cut (it can be straight or concave - in style). The size and configuration of the departure will be specified on the figure. To do this, the pattern is cut out with allowances of 3-5 cm for the departure cuts. The lower part of the collar is also cut out on the fabric with an allowance for refining the size and configuration of the departure. The upper collar with a selection is cut out after fitting, when the configuration and size of the lower collar are clarified.

Allowance for half skid (2.5 cm) is set aside from the upper loop - points 15-20 cm.

When building shawl collar the construction begins with the connection of the point of the beginning of the lapel of the side with the upper point of the shoulder cut and the neck.

This line is continued to the length of the neck of the back. To obtain collars with varying degrees of fit to the neck, the deviation of the stitching line from the straight line at the top point can be 1-4 cm towards the shoulder cut.

Having set the required value for the deviation of the smooth curve, draw a line for stitching the collar into the neck of the back. In the area corresponding to the back of the product, this line runs almost parallel to the line of sewing into the neck, then a smooth, evenly curved curve is brought to the beginning of the lapel lapel. The line of the middle of the collar is built on a perpendicular from the extreme point of the collar stitching to the stitching line. On the middle line, mark the desired collar width.

On the basis of this collar, by changing the configuration of the flight, you can get many options for one-piece collars.

4. Flat-lying one-piece collar.

Trace the front pattern on a piece of paper. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter AT.

Collar line. The position point of the upper loop is connected under the ruler with a point AT and continue the line up over the shoulder cut.

The line of stitching into the sprout. On the line of inclination of the collar from the point AT up lay a segment equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck, and put a point BUT:

AB= POsh :3=18:3=6cm

From a point BUT restore the perpendicular to the left.

The backrest pattern is applied to the contour of the front so that the highest point of the germ coincides with the highest point of the neck, and the lowest point of the germ is on the line drawn from the point BUT. Circle the sprout and the middle of the back.

Medium cut. From the sprout along the line of the middle of the back, lay 7-14 cm - the width of the collar at the back.

flyaway cut arrange in style. The configuration and size of the departure are specified in the same way as when constructing a one-piece stand-up collar.

When constructing patterns for jacket-type collars on a base pattern, determine the position of the rake line, i.e., the line of stitching the collar into the neck on the turn-down part of the bead. The position of this line is determined by the fashion and desire of the author of the product. The upper part of this line runs along the neck of the shelf, and then is drawn simultaneously with the line of the ledge of the lapel. Having outlined the lapel, depending on the position of its ledge, the lines of the ledge and the departure of the collar are drawn. The collar pattern is cut off from the shelf pattern along the rake line.

If set-in collars of this type must have a deep, curved neck, the neckline is drawn on a pattern of a smooth curve from the point where the lapel lapel starts (or the collar is sewn in) to the upper point of the shoulder cut and neck. The deviation of this line from the straight line connecting the points is usually 1-2 cm. The collar stitching line is built symmetrically with a straight line, and its deepening is also 1-2 cm.

Options for fancy collars for an open neck.

Collars are very diverse in shape. They usually consist of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks. At the same time, the rack can be both detachable and one-piece with a departure. The rack and departure are separated by an inflection line.

The collar is connected to the product by a stitching line. Its length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. The stitching line can be straight, concave or convex, therefore, depending on its curvature, the collar fits more or less to the neck.

If the stitching line has a concave shape, then the collar only fits slightly to the neck, a straight or straight line increases the fit of the collar, and a convex line provides maximum fit.

To build a collar drawing, it is necessary to know not only the length of the stitching line, but also the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. We choose it according to the model, depending on the degree of fit of the collar to the neck.

For collars with a high stand, take smaller values, for flat collars, with a low stand, take large values.

The neck line in products is made either along the line of the base of the neck, or expands, deepens, depending on the model features. The expansion of the neckline in the area of ​​the shoulder seams, its deepening at the back and front ensures that the projected collar lags behind the neck.

Pattern of a turn-down collar adjacent to the neck

2. From the point O, horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back (measured by the product from the middle of the back to the middle of the front) minus 0.5-1 cm (this is a coefficient, the value of which depends on the curvature of the line of stitching the collar; a smaller value is selected when straight stitching line, more - with a curved one).

3. Up vertically from point O, lay off the amount of rise in the middle of the collar (from the table): RH = 2-4 cm.

4. Connect straight points B and A, divide the segment into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2 .

From O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is laid aside.

5. A smooth line draws the line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A.

6. Collar width on the back: BB 1 = 8-10 cm (according to the model).

The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upwards from A to the segment BA: AA 1 \u003d BB 1 \u003d 8-10 cm.

7. Connect the straight line B 1 and A 1 and extend it to the right by 3-6 cm (the value of the protrusion of the corner).

A 1 A 2 \u003d 3-6 cm.

8. From the middle of the segment B 1 and A 1, restore upward a perpendicular of 1-1.5 cm.

9. With a smooth curve coming out of point B 1 at a right angle to the segment OB 1, draw a detachable cut of the collar through points B 1, 1-1.5, A 2.

10. Connect straight A to A 2

Turn-down collar pattern with cut-off stand

Such a collar, thanks to the cutting stand, ensures a good fit of the product on the figure. First, a collar with a one-piece stand is drawn, then the stand is cut off from the collar. The collar and collar stand change - the length along the line of their connection decreases. As a result, the collar is more close to the neck and looks better than a turn-down collar with a one-piece stand.

1. On the drawing basic foundation expand the neckline along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm, in the middle of the back - by 0.5 cm.

Draw a new neck at a right angle to the middle of the back.

Mark on the new front neck the point of the ledge of the bead at a distance of 1 cm from the middle of the front towards the armhole.

Measure the length of the new front and back neckline from the middle of the back to the shoulder drop point.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the left of the starting point O the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm.

3. From the point O put up:

• collar stand height - 3.5 cm,
• the height of the collar cut-off stand is 4 cm,
• the position of the inflection line of the collar stand is 0.5 cm,
• collar width - 5.5 cm.

4. From point A, set aside 0.7 cm up and from the resulting point set aside 3.5 cm to the left.

VA 1 = 3.5 cm.

5. Through A 1, draw up a vertical line on which to detect an arc from B with a radius equal to 10 cm.

BB 1 = 10 cm.

6. Draw the sections of the collar and stand in accordance with fig. The cut line of the rack starts at a distance of 3 cm from point B.

7. Draw cut lines on the collar and stand.

8. Cut the collar along the line of the seam connecting the collar and collar stand. Make cuts from the cut of the collar stitching to the cut of the collar flying off.

9. Lay the sections of the collar and the stand along the lines of the cuts on each other by 0.3 cm at the cuts of the seam of the connection. In the midline, also narrow the collar and stand.

Shirt collar pattern with one-piece stand

1. Build a right angle with a vertex at point O.

2. From the point O horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back minus 0.5 cm.

OA = neck length - 0.5 cm.

3. From A to the right, lay off the size of the ledge of the collar, which is equal to the width of the half-skid (allowance for the fastener on the product).

AA 1 = 1.5-2-2.5 cm

4. The amount of rise in the middle of the collar: RH = 2-4 cm.

5. Points B and A are connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is divided into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2 .

From the point O 1, the perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

From the middle of the segment between points O 2 and A, a perpendicular is drawn down, on which 0.2 cm is laid.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 1 by 0.3-0.5 cm.

6. Make a line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A, 0.3-0.5.

7. The value of the collar stand: BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

8. Through A to the straight line OA, restore the perpendicular upwards, on which a segment equal to the height of the rack is laid: AA 2 \u003d BB 1 \u003d 2.5-3.5 cm.

9. Draw the protrusion of the rack with a rounded curve.

10. Collar width in the middle: BB 2 = 7-9 cm.

11. Draw a horizontal line from B 2 to the right. Its intersection with the vertical drawn from A is designated A 3 .

Line B 2 A 3 continues to the right by 1-4 cm and put B 3.

A 3 B 3 \u003d 1-4 cm.

12. Connect straight line A 2 to B 3 and extend it up. On it from A 2 set aside 7-15 cm (the length of the corner).

A 2 B 4 \u003d 7-15 cm.

13. The segment B 2 A 3 is divided into three parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to B 4.

Shirt collar pattern with cut-off stand

1. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the right from the starting point O the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm.

AA 1 = neck length - 0.5 cm.

2. From A1, a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 2-4 cm are laid.

A 1 A 2 \u003d 2-4 cm.

3. Directly connect A to A2, extend it to the right by 2-2.5 cm (half-skid allowance).

A 2 A 3 \u003d 2-2.5 cm.

4. Segment AA 2 is divided in half and a perpendicular of 1 cm is restored downward.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 3 by 0.5 cm.

Draw a smooth curve line for stitching the rack through points A, 1, A 2, 0.5.

5. Collar stand height: AA 4 = 3-4 cm.

6. From A 2 and A 3, perpendiculars to the segment AA 3 are restored upwards, on which they lay 2.5-3 cm each.

A 2 A 5 \u003d A 3 A 6 \u003d 2.5-3 cm.

7. Connect points A 4 and A 5 with an auxiliary straight line and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm down from the middle of the segment.

8. Points A 4, 1, A 5 are connected by a smooth curve, and the ledge of the rack is drawn with a rounded line.

9. The line for stitching the collar into the rack is drawn up with the same bend as the top cut of the rack.

From A 5 draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry.

From B up lay a segment equal to A 4 B.

BB 1 \u003d A 4 B.

Connect point B 1 with a straight line to A 5, divide the segment in half and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm.

Connect B 1, 1, A 5 with a smooth curve.

10. Collar departure width: B 1 B 2 \u003d 4-5 cm.

11. From B 2 draw a horizontal to the right, its intersection with the vertical drawn from A 5, denote B 3.

12. Set aside 1-5 cm from B 3 in a straight line.

B 3 B 4 \u003d 1-5 cm.

13. Connect straight line A 5 with B 4, extend it up and on it from A 5 set aside 9-14 cm.

A 5 B 5 \u003d 9-14 cm.

14. The segment B 2 B 5 is divided into three parts and the right division point of the smooth curve is connected to B 5.

Shirt collar pattern with high cut-off stand

The high stand of this strict collar is fastened end-to-end at the midline of the front with hinged loops and buttons.

1. Make the necessary changes to the neck on the drawing of the basic base of the product as shown in example 2.

Measure the length of the new neckline front and back from the middle of the back to the middle of the front.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the left of the starting point O the value of the length of the modified neck of the product.

3. From O, set aside 4.5 cm - the height of the collar stand, then set aside 4.5 cm - the height of the collar rise and 5.5 cm - the width of the collar.

4. From A, set aside 2.5 cm upwards and from the obtained point B draw a cut line for stitching in the collar stand.

5. At a right angle to the segment OB, draw the middle front line of the collar 4.5 cm long (the height of the stand at this level).

BB 1 = 4.5 cm.

6. Make cuts of the collar stand, as shown in the figure.

7. From B 1 set aside 0.3 cm to the right along the upper cut of the rack. From this point draw a horizontal line to the left 1.5 cm long, from the last point draw a vertical upwards.

8. Make cuts of the collar in accordance with the picture.

Collar - an element of the product, characterized by the "flexibility" of the form. Exists great amount its modifications, therefore, for each type of face, physique and other individual characteristics, you can choose the ideal option. Most collars have a similar design - this is a visible part and a stand hidden from the eyes, separated from each other by an inflection. The details have a key difference - the way they connect to the bodice.

The element can be detachable (it is sewn along the cut line) or one-piece. In the second case, it is usually cut out in one piece with the front and back. This is how you can model:

• classical one-piece stand-up collars- with a height of the hidden part from 3.5-4.5 to 7-8 cm;
• standing-turn-down models with racks 2.5-3.5 cm;
• semi-erect and flat-lying varieties - with a height of up to 2 cm and 5 mm, respectively.

At the racks, the width of the flying part can vary (up to 25 cm), deaf or open fasteners. They fit snugly to the neck or frame it effectively, leaving a short distance. The choice of the final form depends only on the wishes of the future owner of the thing. The racks that are cut out along with the product have features - they must be taken into account when sewing clothes.

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Features of one-piece racks

A one-piece collar is convenient to build on widened necks. This is due to the peculiarities of the style - it is most often used for outerwear, jackets, dresses and tops made of dense fabric, which is organically combined with a strict style. To make the part look beautiful, the product is processed with a wet-heat method using an iron. Fabrics that are used for uprights rarely stretch and their WTO on a narrow neckline can be problematic.

Most often, when building such collars, craftsmen start from the basic drawings of jackets, jackets and coats. The degree of expansion of the neck depends on the style of the product and the personal preferences of the owner. The value can vary from one to 5 centimeters and even more. There is a general "constructive" principle: with an increase in the height of the rack, the expansion along the neck should also grow. When creating a pattern, it is imperative to take into account the presence or absence of a middle seam on the back of the product. The sequence of modeling in the two cases is different.

If there is no seam connection, you need to line up the part vertically, focusing on middle line on the back. The upper section of the collar is slightly shifted, and the connection of the stand with the shoulder is carried out smoothly. In most cases, the excess width is removed in tucks. Their end should be located at a distance from the edge of the rack (at least half a centimeter), and the length depends on the height of the collar.

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Construction of a basic drawing of a one-piece rack

The pattern of the classic variety of such a collar is built according to the standard scheme. The work begins with drawing a right angle - the vertex is in the upper left corner, the rays are directed to the right side and down.

First draw up the stitching line:

1. a horizontal line is laid from the starting vertex according to the measure of the half-girth in the neck (with an increase of half a centimeter);
2. from the end of the segment to the right, an allowance is made for a half-skid (its edge rises by 3-5 mm);
3. from the original vertex lay 2-4 centimeters along the midline, marking the end with a dot;
4. the obtained marks are connected by an auxiliary line - it must be divided into three, indicating the division points;
5. from the first division point, a perpendicular straight line is drawn upward and half a centimeter is measured;
6. smoothly connect the auxiliary intermediate marks of the curve.

The construction of the rack begins from the auxiliary points along the vertical, and its protrusions are drawn smoothly, in the form of rounded curves. Next, a take-off cut is constructed with a deposit along the midline up to 9-10 cm (along the width of the part on the reverse side). From the end of this segment to the right, a horizontal is laid off after crossing with a vertical, extended by 1-4 centimeters. Then you need to display the length of the angle and smoothly connect the marks.

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Building Adjacent Racks

Depending on the degree of fit of the one-piece rack, it is built differently on the drawing. If the collar should tightly cover the neck, you first need to model the back. Circle the main pattern and find the location of the highest and lowest points. Continue the line in the center of the back up to the height of the rack, and mark the end of the segment.

Progress

1. From the highest point of the sprout, lay vertically the height of the stand along the shoulder (the value along the midline minus 1 centimeter).
2. From the end of the segment horizontally to the left and vertically, build up lines 1 cm long and smoothly connect the ends, continuing the curve to the cut on the shoulder.
3. Outline the front drawing ( shoulder tuck should be moved to the side cut) and mark the highest and lowest points along the neck.
4. From the highest mark, build a cut line along the shoulder to the right side and from its end bring up a segment at half the height along the rack (the angle must be right).
5. From the end built above the segment, draw a smooth curve to the highest point on the neck.

The height of the rack in the center of the front part is adjusted according to the parameter in the shoulder section - they must be equal (although you can determine the value from the model). It is permissible to bring the upper cut of the part to the depth of the cutout or draw it along the edge of the side, if a fastener is provided along the front. When building, be sure to set control marks - at the highest points on the sprout and neck.

stylefashion.com.ua

Collar design

One-piece rack can be designed "at a distance" from the neck. The modeling technique is similar to tight-fitting varieties: first, they build the back, tracing the main details on a paper sheet, and then expand the sprout by 1-3 centimeters.

Progress

1. Continue up the midline to the height of the rack.
2. From the point at the end of the expansion of the sprout, vertically set aside the height of the stand at the shoulder (the corresponding parameter is in the center minus 1 centimeter).
3. Connect the ends of the two lines drawn above by smoothly drawing a concave curve.
4. Make a side cut along the control point along the bottom of the sprout.
5. Make a tuck - the new line of the sprout is divided in two, on one half an element is made with a solution of 1 centimeter and a length along the height of the rack.

The construction of the front also starts from the main pattern. It is circled, in the resulting drawing, the highest and lowest points along the cutout are marked. If the product should have a fastener, in the middle you need to make an allowance of up to 3 cm for a half-skid.

1. from the end of the expansion, a vertical is drawn - the height along the rack from the seam in the shoulder;
2. from the point at the end of the segment, a horizontal line of about 2 centimeters is drawn to the right;
3. from the extended segment for half-skid up, measure the height along the rack with a centimeter increase;
4. from the obtained point to the right, a horizontal line of 2 centimeters is drawn.

The resulting auxiliary points are smoothly connected by concave curves - these are cuts from above and from the side. When making tucks, ⅓ of the length of the new neck is taken as the height, and 1-1.5 centimeters are left for the solution.

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Designing products with a seam in the center of the back

Many fashionable one-piece oversized coats have a seam in the middle of the back. To design a collar for such a product, you need to expand the neck to the desired volume and, accordingly, increase the height of the collar. Details of clothing are copied separately, and an element is modeled on them, starting from the back. An extension is made on it (about 2-2.5 cm) - the value is set aside along the cut on the shoulder and marked with a dot. From it, a line is drawn along the neck again (it will be needed to decorate the tucks).

Progress

1. Postpone the height of the stand and lower it along the shoulder cut (the height is reduced by 5-10 mm).
2. Make a bevel of about 5-20 mm and draw a new middle axis for the rack.
3. Make a bevel along the shoulder line, equal to or less than in the center.
4. Draw the upper cut of the element - straight or smoothly, according to the model.
5. Draw a smooth curve along the line of the shoulder.
6. Build a tuck to fit along the neck on the back: a solution of 7-10 mm (evenly distributed on both sides), length - two heights along the rack.

The next stage is modeling the part on the shelf.

1. If the product must have fasteners and buttons, you will need an allowance in the center of the front (depart from the middle 3-4 cm).
2. The edge along the board is drawn for the entire length of the shelf. It is necessary to expand the cutout by 2-2.5 cm, mark its end with a dot.
3. From this point, set aside the height of the element minus 5 mm (the cut along the shoulder is lowered similarly to the back).
4. Smoothly shape the line of the shoulder in the form of a curve.
5. Draw a bevel along the front line in the form of a straight line, and the upper cut in the form of a smooth curve.
6. Remove the extra width into the tuck, the location of which is selected according to the style and figure (it is usually placed perpendicular to the neck) - a solution of 1-1.5 centimeters, length along the rack.

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To find where the central axis of the tuck is located, you need to measure its length and set aside ⅓ of the value from the midline of the shelf. The solution is distributed along the cutout, and the top is finished without bringing half a centimeter to the top cut on the rack. In a similar way, collars can be modeled on other bulky products - jackets, jackets.