Drap Drap (French drap "cloth") - heavy, dense wool fabric complex weave from hardware (cloth) spinning yarn. Like other types of fabrics made from natural raw materials, drape has a glorious history. Its production became possible after the invention of special looms, which make it possible to produce material in which the threads are arranged in several rows. To be precise, the drape has one and a half or two layers of weave. This allowed experimentation with weft and warp threads. The easiest option for this is to put exactly the same threads on the ducks and on the warp, on the outer and on the wrong layers. The next step was prompted by worldly logic: to replace the yarn of the inner layer with a cheaper or lower quality yarn. Further, part of the woolen threads was replaced with cotton or linen and another kind of drape was obtained. By changing the weave pattern, the raw material, the combination of weft and warp colors, and the finish of the front side, about a dozen classic varieties of drape were obtained. With the advent of artificial and synthetic fibers, the range of drapes has expanded and acquired new properties. Drap perfectly keeps the shape of the product, due to the thickness and layering remains warm and windproof. Properly dyed drape does not shed, does not fade in the sun and does not lose color in the rain. It practically does not wrinkle, and accidental creases can be straightened with steam. Varieties and varieties of drape If pure wool yarns of the best spinning are used to produce fabric on the outer and inner layers, a double-sided drape of the highest grade will be obtained. It was from such a drape that a small-town tailor turned his coat over in a well-known song. Indeed, a product from a double-sided drape that has worn out at the seams and bends can be carefully dissolved at the seams and sewn again, on the wrong side. The difference in appearance was insignificant and depended on the way the front side was processed. Drap is considered pure wool if the amount of additives in the yarn does not exceed 15%. By and large, these additives are wool restored by chemical methods. The highest quality drapes belong to this category. But usually in the lining layers, threads of lower quality are used, with the addition of wool recovered from waste. Therefore, the wrong side of such a drape is more loose. On the appearance drape product is not affected, but can significantly reduce its weight and overall density. If the wool content is in the range of 30-85%, the drape is considered to be half-woolen. As a rule, it is looser and lighter due to the content of nylon, nitron or viscose fibers. At the same time, they try to make the front layer pure wool. To give such a drape a classic look, the pile has to be pressed in and combed. Excessive friability and softness is the most common drawback of mixed drape. However, it also finds its application. In particular, some types are used in the manufacture of windproof suits and overalls. The processing of the front side of the finished drape is carried out in several stages. The fabric is felted to give extra density. Then it is piled: the pile is given the necessary qualities. Depending on the type of drape, its pile can be fluffy, velor, or pressed. After napping, the structure of the weave of the fabric becomes almost invisible. Classic varieties of drape If two or more colors of thread were used in the production of fabric, a melange drape will be obtained. Its weave pattern is extremely diverse, since it depends both on the weave and on the combination of warp and weft colors. Such varieties of drape are very expensive. They sew from them a solid, timeless outerwear for wealthy men and women. Pure woolen fabrics made from wool of a certain quality in compliance with the necessary technologies for weaving and finishing are considered classic drapes. For example, drape Flacon should contain 80% merino and 20% tsigai wool (wool of tsigai sheep), the weave and the thickness of the threads are strictly regulated. The pile of the front side should be thick and dense. Drap velor is made of merino wool and does not contain extraneous additives. The pile of the front side lies freely, but should not roll or fray. There are other varieties that have long become classics. However, due to the great possibilities in the selection of raw materials, its percentage, the method of production and subsequent processing, new, no less interesting varieties of drape are constantly appearing. Pictured: Balenciaga coat

The flat-lying collar lies flat at the neckline and is characterized by little or no stand-up. This type of collar is most often used on children's clothing, bouzas and dresses, jackets and coats.

The design of a flat-lying collar is carried out directly on the combined front and back of the product with a slight overlap shoulder sections in the armhole area. To do this, the tops of the neck are combined at points A 1 and A 2, and the end shoulder points P 1 and P 2 should overlap each other by 1-3 cm.

Thanks to this construction, the length of the collar is maximum, so the collar lies flat on the product.

To build a collar breast tuck on the shelf should be transferred to the side seam or to the waistline.

The stitching line of the collar exactly repeats the line of the neckline of the back and front.

The width of the collar and the departure line (its shape) is determined by the model.

Pattern of a flat-lying collar with rounded ends

1. Temporarily transfer the tuck to the bulge of the chest to any section of the front, for example, to the side.

2. Attach the back to the front, aligning the shoulder sections at the neckline and overlapping them by 1-1.5 cm at the armhole.

3. On the drawing basic foundation expand the neckline along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 2 cm, in the middle of the back - by 1 cm. Draw a new neckline at a right angle to the middle of the back.

4. Draw a collar with a departure width of 6 cm in accordance with the drawing.

5. To improve the fit of the collar, lower the front middle section of the collar 0.7 cm below the front neckline.

6. Copy the collar from the front and back drawing.

Below is detailed video how to sew a flat collar.

Collar patterns.
The shape of the collar and its correct processing affects the appearance of the product. By changing the outlines of the visible upper part, as well as the dimensions of the rack, you can get different variants collars.

There are three main groups of collars:

Flat-lying, the difference between which is a small stand or no stand at all (suitable for children's and women's clothing);

Stand-up turn-down, the most common group of universal collars;

Stand-up collars, without a turn-down part, differ in the height of the stand, as well as the design of its ends.

Processing depends on the cut (one-piece, set-in) and style. They are cut out from the finishing fabric or the fabric of the product.

The collar consists of 2 parts - this is the upper and lower, however, there may be single (straight stand). The upper collar is cut from a whole piece of fabric or with one seam in the middle. And the lower one can be cut out from several pieces of fabric, if necessary, but it must necessarily coincide with the upper collar in the direction of the thread.

Collars are made with and/or without padding, depending on the fabric. For it, a fusible sealant or thin cotton fabric is used. You can cut the lining from the same fabric as the main product when it is thin and transparent. It is more convenient to sew collars when only the shoulder seams are sewn and processed. You can easily unfold the product and carefully stitch the collar.

Patterns of collars of various shapes.

To make a collar pattern, you will need a sheet of paper with a coordinate grid (graph paper), a ruler, a centimeter tape, a pattern for smooth pairing of two points and a pencil. The pattern is made in half size along the fold line of the collar, if it is symmetrical, and in full size if the collar is curly and its right and left sides are different in shape.

Round flat collar:

Turn-down collar:

Apache Collar:

Dress Collar:

One-piece high stand collar:

Stand Collar:

Stand collar:

Collar pattern with one-piece stand:

Jacket Collar:

A few seasons ago, detachable collars of various models came into fashion. They can be separate from the thing with which they are combined, or attached to it with buttons or buttons. As a rule, according to the model, these are flat-lying collars or stand-up collars. With this piece of clothing you can decorate and update your favorite sweater, blouse or dress. ? Today I want to introduce you to the process of sewing a round flat collar made of faux fur.

For work, we need the following materials:

Artificial fur

Atlas

Interlining

Lace width no more than 5 cm

Small clasp or hook

This pattern is the basis of a flat-lying collar, you can change the width and shape of the collar if you wish. When you do paper template, be sure to try it on and fit it to the girth of the neck. Make the neckline as you need it.

We cut out the top of the collar from faux fur. I want to note that fur always has a direction of the pile and it will be more convenient and beautiful if the direction of the pile coincides with the vertical line of the front of the collar, when laid out on the fabric, this is a shared line, i.e. directed along the fabric roll. In the photo, the direction of the lobar is shown by arrows.

We make 4 parts: 2 parts from fur (left and right collar) and 2 from satin fabric accordingly (you can take any suitable color, but not stretchy fabric). We retreat 1 cm from the edge of the template on all sides.

Now we need to glue all the details with interlining. Now there is a large selection of interlinings, choose not very tight, so that the collar does not stand with a stake, but is soft enough. In the photo, the interlining that I used is under the details of the collar. Our collar has a front and back, do not forget to mark them so as not to be confused in the future. I am guided in the direction of share. I remind you that the direction of the share is indicated by the arrows in the photo.

Another important point. I think that you will come across it in the process of working with fur. When connecting the front and back parts of the collar, the fur will need to be put with a pile inside and it will constantly move out. Therefore, by connecting separately the left and right parts with the front sides, first sweep them away.

Now stitch the details leaving the side of the neck open and then cut the fabric 0.5 cm from the edge, a little more in the rounded places so that the finished collar edge lies more evenly.

We turn both halves of our future collar and lay a line along front side of the lower parts of the collar close to the seam line, grabbing the allowance that we cut. We iron both halves. Next, you need to cut off that centimeter along the neck line, which we gave when cutting, since in this model the neck will be processed. If you want to make a collar with an inner seam around the neck, then leave this allowance. Connect the details of both halves along the neck with a stitch.

We combine the centers of the front collar. Now we will sew on lace, which must be stretchy, otherwise you will not be able to lay it out. The width of the lace should be at least 2 cm, the appearance is up to you. We measure the total length of the neck with a centimeter and add another 1 cm. Cut off the lace of the resulting length. Fold the lace right side up in half lengthwise and iron.

Then we turn the edges of the lace inside out and stitch, retreating 0.5 cm from the edge. We turn the lace inside out and pin it to the neck, clasping it on both sides. We make a line on the front side, preferably along the edge of the lace, so as not to disturb the pattern. If the edges of the lace are asymmetrical, then you will not be able to capture two of its sides with one line. It will be necessary to sew on the lace on the inside of the collar with your hands. On the back half of the bottom, I sewed small hooks as a quality. Alternatively, it can be a small flat button with an air loop.

OK it's all over Now! Our collar is ready! Look how he decorated an ordinary blouse. I found 2 brooches in my household, which, in my opinion, came very close to him.

If you have any questions about this master class, write, I will answer.

For those who love detachable collars, I suggest getting acquainted with another interesting creation experience. It will be a great addition to many outfits.

Share with friends interesting information. I wish you all good luck!

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Find out even more interesting things:

Shibari tippet

What is interesting left for us from last season? There is a lot to note here, but let's start with the collars.

It is called differently - removable, consignment note, detachable or separate, but the essence of this does not change - this is detachable collar . He is not new to our wardrobe, he was invented, so to speak, a long time ago. Who? I won’t specify, since there are several versions on this subject, and therefore each of us can make an excursion into history on our own, if desired, now it’s easy and simple to do.

A modern detachable collar is an independent accessory, first of all, of a women's suit.

How to transform a boring outfit? The collar will come to the rescue. Today we turn our attention to a lace collar, or an embroidered collar, or just a fabric collar with beautiful pattern, for example, with floral ornaments, etc.

We offer a pattern of three models of collars, or rather, these are ready-made patterns in three versions.

This type of collar is turn-down flat collars.

Before cutting the collar, specify the neck of the product, bring it into line with the collar pattern or, conversely, adjust the collar pattern to match the neck of the product, and only after that you can start cutting.

Collars - small and large, straight and curly, classic and fantasy, modest and elegant. There are a lot of them, they are so different!

Very handy to have ready-made patterns different types collars.

After clarifying the line of the neck of the product, we take a ready-made collar template of the desired style, check the stitching line for compliance, if necessary, correct it and you can cut it. It's convenient, simple and fast.

Give it a try, I hope you enjoy this approach.

Valentina Nivina Alexander Nivin

This is the final part of the topic "Constructing a shirt pattern for a boy." The back, front and sleeve are ready, it remains to build a collar pattern.

The style of the collar for this shirt may be different. This is determined by you, guided by the desire of the client, the model of the product or the suit as a whole.

We will show how to build a pattern as an example. stand-up collar shirt type with a one-piece stand.

A collar pattern can be built according to the principle of constructing a collar to men's shirt, but here we retain the originality of this technique and implement all its recommendations.

We use the same measurements as in two.

Stand-up collars are one of the simplest collars.

However, for all their simplicity of construction, stand-up collars are very diverse. This diversity is expressed in the width (height) of the stand, in the configuration of the top line, in the design of the ends, as well as in the degree of fit to the neck.

This group of collars can be divided into two subgroups:

1 - detachable stand-up collars;

2 - one-piece stand-up collars with shelves and backs.

In this article, we will consider several designs of this type of collars related to cutting racks, which differ from each other in varying degrees of fit to the neck.