Middle back line

A pear-shaped figure is very feminine, but sometimes it brings some difficulties to the owner when choosing a finished dress due to the difference in the girths of the hips and chest. You shouldn't get upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neckline, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrasting inserts that run along the dress and visually model the figure, as well as a little high waist, heels and matching tights will make you slimmer. We try to avoid decor in the hips, patch pockets, draperies, transverse stripes and large prints.

photo from the site, http://www.chieflady.com/

For an example of modeling, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on a pattern-based adjoining silhouette. The style is interesting in that the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate the female figure of just the lower type in the best and most advantageous way. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help to visually hide the width of the hips, and the white silhouette, expanding upwards, will bring to the fore the built silhouette. But, here you can’t be too smart with excessive narrowing of the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to expand the skirt a little to the bottom.



photo from http://www.stylishwife.com/

Modeling. On the details of the back and front pattern, draw model lines of reliefs passing from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through waist darts, on the back, transfer part of the solution to the midline of the back, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest tuck in the armhole, read more about transferring the darts. It remains only to outline the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the circumferences of the waist and hips is large and the solutions of the tucks for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the tuck must be divided into two, otherwise finished product there will be ugly creases in the waist area.


In the second modeling option, we propose to expand the skirt to the bottom, make it the so-called A - figurative silhouette, you can also make the dress detachable at the waist.


MODELING OF A DRESS FOR THE "INVERTED TRIANGLE" BODY TYPE

Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. The whole decor, bright prints - down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, raglan sleeves will help us here, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a dress with a shoulder strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear curvy wide skirts, skirts or trousers with a peplum, dresses of a straight cut, but not too voluminous and wide, with vertical seams or trim.


photo from sites http://refinedstylefashion.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/pin/454089574910263523/ http://stylowi.pl/

As an example, let's analyze the modeling of a pattern simple dress suitable for this type of figurus. It features a fitted, sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut off along the waistline, on the front panel of the skirt there are two opposite folds, on the back panel of the skirt a cut is made.


photo from the site http://snowqueen.ru/

Let's start modeling by applying the basic pattern of the adjacent silhouette of embossed lines to the details of the back and shelves (if you want a better fit or knitted fabric is chosen, you can use the base pattern of the adjacent silhouette). We will arrange the thallium tucks on the front panel of the skirt into folds - cut the skirt part from the end of the tucks vertically down, push the parts apart so that in the upper part we get a gap of approximately 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom, the volume of the skirt will be kept in its original form.


MODELING OF A DRESS FOR THE "HOURGLASS" BODY TYPE

figure type" hourglass"- the most feminine, it is he who is rightfully considered a role model and we try to bring our figure closer to him, at least with the help of clothes. Lucky women with a physique of this type. Main advice- focus on the waist, so you will further emphasize your femininity and sexuality. Necklines, bows, pencil skirts, stilettos - this is your win-win look.


photo from sites http://www.asos.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/NatalieYoung29/


Let's model such a simple dress, in two versions.

photo taken from websites

The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very effective. For modeling, we need a pattern for the base of the adjacent silhouette and a sleeve pattern. The dress is detachable along the waist line, the skirt is expanded to the bottom. Darts for fitting the chest are transferred to the neck: in the first version - darts from the neck are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version - darts on the chest are distributed into folds coming from the neck, there are no sleeves.

Modeling. Step 1 - on the details of the back, the tuck for the roundness of the shoulder can be neglected, because. the neckline of the back is deep enough and widened, but the amount of the opening must be taken from the length of the shoulder so as not to upset the balance. For the convenience of modeling, we will translate the tuck on the shelf into an armhole. Cut the details of the skirt pattern lengthwise from the darts down.

Next, step 2 of the simulation. Let's outline a new neckline according to the sketch. We will transfer the thallium tuck on the shelf to the neck, and we will also transfer the tuck from the armhole there. Read more about the translation of tucks. When designing a detachable adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the shelf detail must be lowered by 1 cm around the waist, this will give a better fit and prevent it from pulling up when finished. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern, obtained after cutting the details of the skirt, so that the darts open to the bottom. We will correct the side sections and the bottom of the product.


Sleeve modeling. A pattern for the base of the sleeve can be taken on our website. First, shorten the length to the required. With the help of vertical cuts going from the edge to the bottom of the part, and the subsequent separation of the parts of the pattern, design an oncoming fold.


In the second version of the dress, the tucks on the shelf are translated into folds coming from the neck. Modeling will be discussed below.


MODELING OF A DRESS FOR THE "OVAL" BODY TYPE (APPLE)

Oval shape (apple). In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter "o". strategy in right choice clothes will emphasize, accentuate the waist, this can be done by choosing a dress that expands slightly towards the bottom, as well as using belts, decorative inserts that make the waist visually narrower, the top of the dress should be somewhat expanded, for example, use a V-shaped neckline, collars. Sheath dresses, wraps, low waist, A-line dresses will suit you.


photo from sites http://yourmothershouldknow.tumblr.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/buyerselect/ https://ru.pinterest.com/nordstrom/ http://dresses-photo.ru/ http:/ /jenskie-hitrosti.ru/

Let's take this dress as an example. It is interesting because it has a contrasting decorative line running along the dress. Visually, this very stretches the silhouette and slims. In addition, the dress is loose at the waist and slightly expands towards the bottom, which is undoubtedly a plus for this type of figure. Clear cut lines and a choice of fabric that holds its shape create the right image and collect the figure as a whole. To model this model, we will use the basic pattern-base of the adjacent silhouette, for a better fit.


photo from the site

Female figure rectangle type. For modern models is the most typical. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, there are usually no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! That's where our modeling tips and patterns come in handy!)) Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Marilyn Monroe or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself, that's what we are striving for.


photo from sites http://ouiliviamoraes.com/ http://my.goodhouse.com.

Modeling takes place on the basic pattern-basis of a dress with a straight silhouette, without tucks. To begin with, we will get rid of the tuck on the back, on the shelf we will complete the depth of the fold, setting aside a distance of 12-15 cm from the middle of the part. Please note that one counter fold is laid at the top of the dress, while at the bottom there are two of them - one-sided, the depths are laid towards the side seams. The lines of the side seams are designed in such a way that an oval silhouette is formed. This model should be long above the knee, otherwise there may be excessive narrowing at the bottom.

Well, our lesson has come to an end, we have learned how to create simple patterns dresses based on a basic pattern, such that beginners can handle modeling and tailoring, we talked about the types of figures. I think now you can please yourself with a new thing. Good luck and be creative!

Construction of the midline of the back drawing of a pattern of shoulder products.

For straight products

Carries a constructive load in the upper part of the back, a tuck is created to fit the bulge of the shoulder blades.

from point BUT the top of the midline deviates to the right by 0.5 cm for typical figures and by 1 cm for stooped figures, denoted by a dot BUT*.

Deviation from the vertical at the waistline T T1 = 1 cm.

points A* U T1 connect with a smooth line. point T1 connect with a straight line with a dot B1 and continue down. The point of intersection of this line with the bottom line is denoted H1.

For products of semi-adjacent and fitted forms

1) middle line no structural load T T1 = 2-2.5 cm.

points BUT and T1 connect with a straight line, which we continue down to the point H1.

2) The middle cut line carries the structural load

A A* = (from 0.5-1 cm)

T T1 = 1.5 cm

T1 T11 = (from 0.7-1.5 cm) tuck solution at the waist.

We draw the line of the middle cut of the back through the points A* Y r T11 B1 N1

through dots T11 and B1 draw a straight line, continuing it down to the intersection with the horizontal from the point H. The point of intersection is denoted H11. We draw the line of the middle cut through the points A* Y r T11 B1 H11.

For products of free forms and expanded from top to bottom

We reject the middle line in the drawing to the left H H1 \u003d (from 6 to 10) cm.

point BUT or another point that determines the level of the beginning of the expansion, we connect with the point H1.

Construction of side cut lines

The side seam can be located in the extreme left position - pass through the point G1 or even go on the back by 0.5-1 cm. It can be located both to the right and to the left of the point G1 to 0.5 G1 G4.

Line position side seam on the waist line in products of a straight silhouette with a deflection in the side seams and a semi-adjacent silhouette are not determined by calculation, but are found graphically. To do this, we connect the points that determine the position of the side seam on the line of the chest and on the line of the hips (or bottom) with straight lines, and then with concave ones, the degree of concavity of which determines the back value of the opening of the tucks.

In fitted products, the position of the side sections of the back and shelves on the waist line is found as follows: we determine the difference between the width of the product on the chest line and the waist line. The difference is:

(Cr2 + Pg) - (St + Fri) - T T1.

The resulting value is the sum of the solutions of tucks and side seams and is denoted ΣB. We distribute it between tucks and side cuts.

In the side cut of the back, as well as in the side cut of the shelf, we design 1/5 of the total solution of tucks (Σ V) or 1/4 ΣB in both side cuts.

In the drawing, the size of the solution of the tuck projected in the side section of the back is measured along the waist line from the vertical drawn down from the point G5 to the left, and the size of the solution of the tuck projected in the side section of the shelf - to the right.

To determine the position of the side sections on the hip line, we find the difference between the width of the finished product along the hip line and the chest line. The difference is:

(Sb + Pb) - (Sg2 + Pg) + B B1.

When constructing a drawing, the width of the product on the hip line must be increased by the obtained value, which is evenly distributed between the shelf and the backrest relative to the vertical G5 H2. Or, to a lesser extent, the resulting value is related to the back and to a greater extent - to the shelf. This applies to products with a seam open from the back side, the smooth design of which is given great attention.

B2 B4 \u003d B2 B5 \u003d ((Sb + Pb) - (Cr2 + P1) + B B1) : 2

Then we find the width of the back and the shelves below. In products with a straight silhouette, the width of the back at the bottom should be equal to the width under the armhole or 1-2 cm more; the width of the shelf at the bottom should be equal to or greater than the width under the armhole by 1-2 cm for dresses and more than the width under the armhole by 3-5 cm for coats. For free-form products, the expansion at the bottom is much larger.

The width of the back and shelves at the bottom in semi-adjacent and fitted silhouettes determine by adding 3-10 cm to the width of the product at the hip line.

From the waist line to the hip line, the side sections, as a rule, are drawn up with a convex line.

From the line of the hips to the bottom, we draw the side sections with straight lines.

In the drawing of products of a direct silhouette of a large and medium volume, we draw the side sections with straight lines, connecting the points G51 H4 H5

After drawing the lines of the side cuts, they are aligned: G51 H5 = G51 H4 or G5 H5 = G5 H4

In products of a semi-adjacent and fitted form, the side sections are aligned in sections: up from the waist line, and then down from the waist line.

Bottom line.

The line of the bottom of the back in its middle part is always perpendicular to the line of the middle of the back. In products significantly expanded towards the bottom, it is necessary to align the side cut of the back from the waist down along the length with the middle cut of the back, so we draw the bottom line in the side part with a smooth convex line.

We draw the bottom line of the shelf (front) with a smooth convex line, connecting the points H3 H5.

If you often sew, then you know that any product can be modeled on a base pattern. It is precisely the accuracy of the construction of the base, whether it be a dress, blouse, jacket or any other product, that is the key to a perfect fit and successful tailoring. An accurate base pattern will allow you to sew any dress without numerous fittings, to get real pleasure from the work and the result. It remains only to learn and independently build such a design - so that it smoothly fits the figure, gives freedom of movement and meets the requirements of the silhouette of the product. Silhouettes of dresses are divided into several types: very adjacent, adjacent, semi-adjacent, straight. In order for your dress to “sit” perfectly, you should properly allow for ease of fitting when building the base. How to make them correctly and how to build an accurate pattern-the basis of the dress, we will tell in this article.

  1. Dress length 100 cm
  2. Back length to waist 43cm
  3. Front length to waist 47 cm
  4. Shoulder length 12cm
  5. Half neck 19 cm
  6. Half circumference above bust 44 cm
  7. Half bust 48 cm
  8. Half waist 38cm
  9. Half hips 51 cm
  10. hip height 20cm
  11. The distance between the high points of the chest 20 cm

IMPORTANT!All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Chest Circumference (CG) of more than 80 cm.

Drawing a dress pattern

The construction of a dress pattern begins by drawing a rectangle ABCD.

Dress width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to the half-girth of the chest according to the measurement plus an increase in the freedom of fitting from: AB \u003d DC \u003d 48 cm + an increase in freedom of fitting.

IMPORTANT! When constructing a pattern-base of a dress, it is necessary to take into account the increases shown in Table 1. There you will also find detailed instructions how to use them.

Dress length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 100 centimeters (the length of the dress according to the measurements).

Pattern-base of the dress: 1 design stage

Armhole depth. From point A, they lay down the Depth of the Armhole with an increase and put a point G (GPr \u003d 1/10 Chest Circumference + 10.5 cm \u003d 9.6 + 10.5 \u003d 20 + increase).
From point G, a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line BC, and the point of intersection is designated G1.

Dress waistline. From point A, lay down 43 cm (the length of the back to the waist according to the measure) and put a point T. From point T to the right, draw a line to the intersection with the line BC. The point of intersection is denoted by the letter T1.

The line of the hips of the dress. From point T, lay 20 cm down (Height of the hips by measure) and put a point L, from which a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with the line BC. The point of intersection is denoted by the letter L1.

The width of the back of the dress (SHS). From the point G to the right, lay the width of the back and put the point G2 (WB = (1/8 Chest Circumference +5.5 cm) for all sizes plus an increase in freedom of fitting from Table 1).

Note. For a very fitted silhouette, the increase in Back Width, Armhole Width and Front Width can be omitted, but a fabric with elastic fibers should be chosen.

From the point G2, a line is drawn up to the intersection with the line AB and the intersection point is denoted by the letter P.

The width of the armhole of the dress (SHPr). From the point G2 to the right, lay the width of the armhole G2G3 (G2G3 \u003d (1/8 Chest Circumference - 1.5 cm) for all sizes, plus an increase in freedom of fitting from Table 1.

Lifting the front of the dress. From the point T1, lay 47 cm upwards and put the point W (Length of the front to the waist according to the measure).
Draw a horizontal line from point W to the left. From the point G3 raise the perpendicular. Point P1 is obtained at the intersection of the lines, and the point of intersection with the line AB is denoted by the letter P2.

Side line of the dress. G2G3 is divided in half. Point G4. From the point G4, the line is lowered down to the intersection with the DC line; its intersection with the TT1 line is designated by the letter T2, and the intersection with the LL1 line by the letter L2.

Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armholes. Lines PG2 and P2G3 are divided into four equal parts.

Calculation of traveling tucks. Excess fabric for tucks at the waist is calculated by the formula: Half-girth of the chest minus half-girth of the waist = 48-38 = 10 cm.

Of these, 1/3 is removed into the side tucks - 1.5 cm each in the back and front of the dress, the remaining 7 cm are distributed in the back and front - 4 cm are removed into the tuck along the back of the dress, 3 cm - in front of the dress. For additional fitting (if necessary), a second tuck is made along the front and one more along the central seam of the back.

Pattern-base of the dress: 2 design stage

Back construction

Dress neckline. From point A, 6.5 centimeters are laid to the right (1/3 the half-girth of the neck according to the measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19/3 + 0.5 = 6.8.
From point 6.8, 2 centimeters are laid upwards. Points A and 2 are connected by a concave line.

Shoulder slope of the dress. From point P down lay 1.5 centimeters.

Shoulder line. From point 2 (neck) through point 1.5 (shoulder slope) draw a shoulder line 12 centimeters long (shoulder length according to measurements plus 0-1 centimeter for fit for all sizes).

Important! The back shoulder is slightly adjusted when sewing the product.

Armhole line of the dress. From the point G2, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 cm. The armhole line is drawn through points 12, the middle point of the division line PG2, points 2 and G4.

A tuck at the waistline of the dress. The distance T-1.5 is divided in half, 2 cm are laid from the division point to the left and right, and then vertical lines are drawn up and down as shown in the drawing. 3-4 cm are laid down from the armhole line, 2 cm upwards from the hip line. Points 2 (tuck depth) are connected to points with points 3-4 and 2.

Pattern-base of the dress: 3 design stage

Building the front of the dress

Dress neckline. From the point W to the left lay 6.8 cm and put the point W1 (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck according to the measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19: 3 + 0.5 = 6.8.
7.8 cm are laid down from the W point (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck according to the measurements plus 1.5 cm for all sizes): 19: 3 + 1.5 = 7.8 cm.
Points Ш1 and 7.8 are connected by a dotted line, divided in half, and 6.8 centimeters are laid from the point Ш through the division point of the dashed line. Points Ш1, 6.8 and 7.8 are connected by a concave line.

Shoulder length from dress neckline to chest tuck. 4 centimeters are laid to the left from point Ш1 and 1 centimeter is laid down from this point. Points Ш1 and 1 connect. From point G1 to the left lay 1/2 of the distance between the high points of the chest G1G5 = 20/2 = 10 cm Points 1 (shoulder) and G5 are connected.

Breast tuck dress. The right side of the chest tuck 1-G5 is divided in half and 4 cm are set aside from the dividing point to the left (half-girth of the chest by measure minus half-girth above the chest by measure: 48 - 44 \u003d 4.
The left tuck line is drawn from point G5 through point 4 with a length equal to 1-G5 (right side of the tuck), point P3 is obtained.

Shoulder length from chest tuck to armhole. Point P3 is connected to the upper division point of the line PG2 (back). Then, from the point P3 along the dotted line, 7.5 cm are laid to the left (shoulder length minus 4.5 cm): 12-4.5 \u003d 7.5 cm.
Point 7.5 and the lower division point of the P2G3 line are connected by a dotted line. From point 7.5 along the dotted line down lay 1.5 cm (shoulder slope). Points 1.5 and P3 are connected.

Armhole line of the dress. The dotted line from point 1.5 to the lower point of dividing the P2G3 line is divided in half and 1 centimeter is laid off from the dividing point to the right. From point G3, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn through points 1.5, 1, the lower point of dividing the line P2G3, point 2 and, touching the armhole descent line, to point G4.

Dart at the waistline (front). From the point G5 (the top of the chest tuck), a perpendicular is drawn down to the line of the hips. From the point G5, 5-6 centimeters are laid down. Set aside 1.5 cm along the waist line to the left and right. Points 5-6 are connected to points 1.5 and 1.5 and carried out to the hip line.

Dart on the waistline of the dress (side). From the point G3 to the right, lay down 3 cm and lower the dotted line down to the intersection with the line of the hips. From the point of intersection of the hip line, 1.5 centimeters are laid up, and from point 3 down 7-8 cm. Then, from the point of intersection with the waist line, 1 cm is laid to the right and left and connected to points 7-8 and 1.5.

What is important to consider when building a dress pattern

Important! If the half-circumference of the hips according to your measurements turns out to be greater than according to the drawing, then 1/2 of the difference between the half-circumference of the hips according to the measurements and the half-circumference of the chest is added to the front of the dress and 1/2 to the back of the dress.

The line of the hips of the back and front. The lack of volume in the hips is calculated by the formula: Semi-circumference of the hips by measurement minus Semi-circumference of the chest by measurement = 51-48 \u003d 3 cm. Half of the obtained value is added to the back and half to the front (1.5 cm each).

Side seam on the back of the dress. Lay 1.5 cm from the point T2 to the left, 1.5 cm from the point L2 to the right. The line of the side seam is drawn from the point G4, 1.5 (waist), 1.5 (hips) and further to the intersection with the DC line.

Side seam in front of the dress. Lay 1.5 cm from point T2 to the right, 1.5 cm from point L2 to the left. The line of the side seam is drawn from point G4, 1.5 (waist), 1.5 (hips) and further to the intersection with the DC line.

For a dress with a sleeve, you need to build a sleeve pattern:

Especially for beginners!

Even more creative ideas and patterns you will find on the website of the School of Sewing Anastasia Korfiati. Sign up for our free newsletter!

Appearance description

Everyday women's dress of a semi-adjacent silhouette, with a sleeve of a basic cut, detachable along the waistline with a zipper fastener in the middle seam of the back.

adjoining silhouette shape the product is provided with shaping elements (tucks) on the shelf, back, front and back parts of the skirt (see Fig.), as well as the middle seam of the back. For ease of use, the dress has zippers: one long zipper in the middle seam of the back or two in the middle seam of the back and in the left side seam.

Note: The dress can be made not cut along the waistline.

1. When printing a pattern in A4 format, check the " Real size" (or uncheck "Fit to page") in the print settings. Print a test page, measure the sample square - it should be 10x10 cm. After printing all the pages of the pattern, glue them in the indicated order: letters (A / B / C +) stand for a column, and the numbers (01/02/03+) stand for a row.The first (upper left) sheet of the pattern will have the number A01.

2. When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in AdobeReader (or FoxitReader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the "Poster" print mode in the "Page Size and Handling" section. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes "Cutting Marks", "Labels" and "Split Large Pages Only". If you have any questions, check out our FAQ page!

Parts specification

MAIN MATERIAL

  1. Shelf - 1 piece (with a fold)
  2. Back - 1 piece 9 with a fold)
  3. Sleeve - 2 parts (with or without a tuck)
  4. The front of the skirt - 1 piece
  5. The back of the skirt - 2 parts
  6. Turning the neck of the shelf - 1 piece
  7. Turning the neck of the back - 2 parts

The width of the facing of the neck of the shelf and back is 4 cm.

When cutting, add seam allowances of 1 cm, along the turning line of the cut of the neck of the shelf and back - 0.7 cm, along the bottom of the sleeve - 4 cm, along the bottom line - 3 cm.

To make a dress you will need:

- about 20 cm of adhesive cushioning material (with a width of 90 cm);

- two hidden zippers (16-18 cm and 20-24 cm) or one (45-50) cm

The average consumption of the base material depends on the size of the product and the width of the material. For products of medium and big size you will need one product length (measured along the back from the seventh cervical vertebra) + sleeve length (from the shoulder point) with a material width of 140 cm.

Variants of laying out the details of the cut

Option for laying out patterns on the material in a turn


Option for laying out patterns on the material in a fold along the warp thread


Process sequence dress processing

The product processing technology (operations performed and sequence) largely depends on the properties of the selected material, its thickness and friability.

Therefore, the technological processing sequence for this product will be presented in tabular form, which will allow you to see the main differences in the processing of products from light (thin) and heavy (thick) materials.

Attention! The technological sequence is given on a cut-off dress along the waistline with two zippers

(in the middle back seam and left side seam)

Light (thin) materials

Heavy (thick) materials

Neck trim blank

1. Duplicate the facings of the neck (shelves and backs) with hot-melt adhesive gasket material.

2. Stitch the details of the facing of the neck (shelves and backs) along the shoulder cuts. Iron the seam allowances.

3. Overcast the bottom and side cuts of the finished facing of the neck.

Shelf processing

4. Stitch the upper (shoulder) tucks on the shelf. Iron the allowances towards the center.

5. Sew waist tucks on the shelf. Iron the allowances towards the center. (Fig. 1)


Rice. one

Back treatment

6. Overcast the middle section of the right and left sides of the back.

7. Sew waist darts on the back. Iron the allowances in the direction of the middle cut.

8. Mark the end of the zipper on the middle cut of the back with a control sign.

9. Stitch the right and left parts of the back from the bottom line to the control mark. Iron the seam allowances.

10. Sew a hidden zipper into the middle seam of the back.

Note: To simplify this operation, use the advice. In a hidden braid-zipper, the teeth of the fastener are at an angle of 90 degrees to the braid. If, before sewing in a hidden zipper, iron it out, i.e. equalize the location of the teeth with the plane of the braid, then stitching the zipper will be much easier.

Skirt blank

11. Overcast the middle section of the right and left back of the skirt.

12. Sew darts on the front of the skirt.

13. Press the tuck to the center.

To reduce the thickness in the finished form, iron the allowances in the opposite direction, i.e. in the direction of the side cuts.

14. Sew darts on the back of the skirt.

15. Iron the tuck towards the middle seam.

To reduce the thickness in the finished form, iron the allowances in the opposite direction, i.e. to the side cuts.

16. Stitch the right and left parts of the skirt along the middle cut. Iron the seam allowances.

17. Stitch the front and back of the skirt along the right side cut.

18. Overcast the sections and iron them towards the back.

19. Overcast the left cut of the front of the skirt.

20. Overcast the left cut of the back of the skirt.

21. Mark the end of the zipper with a control sign.

22. Sew the front and back of the skirt along the left cut from the control mark to the bottom.

23. Iron the seam allowances.

Overcast the side sections of the front and back of the skirt.

Stitch the front and back of the skirt along the right side seam. Iron the seam allowances.

On the left side, mark the end of the “zipper” braid with a control sign.

Sew the front and back of the skirt along the left cut from the control mark to the bottom. Iron the seam allowances.

Sleeve processing

24. Stitch darts on the sleeves. Iron the allowances down.

25. Stitch the sleeves along the bottom cut, overcast the cuts, seam allowances iron.

Overcast the bottom edges of the sleeves. Stitch the sleeves along the bottom edges. Seam allowances iron out.

Product installation

26. Stitch the front and back along the shoulder seams.

27. Overcast the sections and iron towards the back.

Overcast the shoulder sections of the shelf and back.

Stitch the front and back along the shoulder seams.

Iron the seam allowances.

28. Stitch the neckline of the dress with a stitch (Fig. 2). Iron the seam allowances towards the seam.


Fig.2

29. Sew the seam allowances on the seam. Fasten the facing along the side cuts to the allowances of the middle seam of the back.

30. Iron the neck of the finished dress.

31. Stitch the shelf and back along the right side cut.

32. Overcast the sections and iron towards the back.

33. Overcast the left edge of the shelf.

34. Overcast the left cut of the back.

35. Mark the beginning of the “zipper” braid with a control sign (usually at a distance of 5-8 cm from the top).

36. Stitch the shelf and back along the left cut from the top to the control mark.

37. Iron the seam allowances.

Overcast the right and left sections of the shelf.

Overcast the right and left sections of the back.

On the left side, mark the beginning of the “zipper” braid with a control sign (usually at a distance of 5-8 cm from the top).

Stitch front and back along right side seam.

Sew the front and back along the left side cut from the top to the control mark.

Side seam allowances iron out.

38. Sew the top and bottom of the dress along the waist line.

39. Overcast cuts.

40. Sew a hidden zipper into the left side seam.

41. Iron the finished knot.

42. Sweep, and then sew the sleeves into the armholes.

43. Overcast cuts.

44. Mark the line of the bottom of the sleeves.

45. Stitch the bottom of the sleeve with a seam in the hem with a closed cut.

Overcast the bottom of the sleeve.

Note the allowance for processing the bottom of the sleeve. Hem the sleeve with hidden stitches.

46. ​​Mark the bottom line of the dress. notice.

47. Topstitch the bottom of the dress with a hem seam with a closed cut.

Overcast the bottom edge of the product.

Note the allowance for processing the bottom of the dress. Hem the dress with hidden stitches.

48. Iron the finished dress.

23:36 unknown 61 Comments

Hello dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes of complex styles, you will already need a pattern - paper template, along which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, then I will advise the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, building a pattern will help you quickly understand and master the principles of designing clothes. In addition, the pattern is built according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on the figure, ready-made patterns such a result is not guaranteed, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And finally, building a pattern is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress according to the method of Tatyana Roslyakova.
In the last article, we learned how to take the measurements that we need to make a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the drawing of structures is carried out only on half of the figure, therefore, measurements of volumes and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I wrote my measurements as an example. By these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.

Name of measurements and symbols

cm

Half neck (Ssh)

Bust (Cg)

40,5

Waist (St)

Half hips (Sat)

44.5

Back length to waist (Dts)

Back Width (W)

16,5

Front length to waist (dtp)

Chest Height (Hg)

Center of the chest (Cg)

Shoulder length (Dp)

Product length (Di)


In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for free fit (CO). These additions are added to almost all measurements in the design drawing, they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for free fitting differs in size. Increases for clothing styles (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.) also differ, moreover, for different types fabrics, there are separate increases. AT various methods the construction of patterns indicates different increases for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the methodology. But for now, we are learning to build the base of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: adjacent and semi-adjacent with the following additions:

Please note that the increments indicated in the table are added in full to the half measure. That is, if the measurement of chest circumference is 81 cm, then the semi-circumference of the chest = 40.5 cm, for an adjacent silhouette, an increase in free fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, which means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm more. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the details of the pattern in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
armhole width - 50%.

distribution of gain along the chest line

I will indicate all the allowances for free fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when constructing a pattern. In this article, we will build a dress with an adjacent silhouette.
Let's start drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm longer than the length of the future dress. If you have never built patterns before, then I advise you to do all the drawings on millimeter paper in a roll, it can be purchased at an office supply store. Drawing on such paper is a pleasure! Drawings are accurate and even. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with a vertex at point P, stepping back from the top edge of 5cm. From the point P down in a straight line, set aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put the point H (segment PH \u003d Di \u003d 85 cm).

Dress Width. From the point P to the right, set aside the half-girth of the chest + 3 cm (increase in free fit), and put the point P 1 (segment PP 1 \u003d Cr + CO \u003d 40.5 + 3 \u003d 43.5 cm). From point H to the right, set aside a segment equal to PP 1 and put a point H 1 (segment HH 1 = PP 1 = 43.5 cm). Connect the points P 1 and H 1

Waistline . From the point P down, we set aside the measurement of the length of the back to the waist + 0.5 cm and set the point T (RT = Dts + CO = 40 + 0.5 = 40.5 cm). Draw a straight line from the point T to the right until it intersects with the line P 1 H 1 and denote the intersection point as T 1 .

hip line . From point T downwards, set aside 1/2 measurements of the length of the back to the waist and put point B (TB \u003d 1 / 2Dts \u003d 40: 2 \u003d 20 cm). Draw a straight line from point B to the right until it intersects with the line P 1 H 1, and denote the intersection point B 1.

Back Width . From the point P to the right, set aside the width of the back + 0.9 cm and put the point P 2 (PP 2 \u003d Shs + CO \u003d 16.5 + 0.9 \u003d 17.4 cm). Draw a straight line of arbitrary length from this point

Armhole Width . From the point P 2 we set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 1.5 cm and put the point P 3 (P 2 P 3 \u003d 1 / 4 Cr + CO \u003d 40.5: 4 + 1.5 \u003d 11.6 cm). Attention! The segment R 2 R 3 is the width of the armhole, therefore, the resulting value of this segment must be distinguished for yourself, in the future we will use this value. Draw a straight line of arbitrary length down from the point P 3.

Back neck cut . From point P to the right, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and put the point P 4 (PP 4 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5 cm). From the point P 4 upwards, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck + 0.8 cm and put P 5 (P 4 P 5 \u003d 1 / 10Ssh + CO \u003d 15:10 + 0.8 \u003d 2.3 cm). Divide the angle with the top P 4 in half and draw a straight line, on this straight line we set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck - 0.3 cm and put a point P 6 (P 4 P 6 \u003d 1/10Ssh-CO \u003d 15: 10-0.3 \u003d 1 ,2cm). Connect the points P, P 6 and P 5 with a smooth line, while the angle at the point P must be straight.

shoulder cut backrests . From P 2 we set aside 2.5 cm down for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping, 1.5 cm for high and put a point P. Connect the points P 5 and P, and on this line we set aside from P 5 the length of the shoulder + 2 cm to the tuck and put P 1 (P 5 P 1 \u003d Dp + 2cm \u003d 13 + 2 \u003d 15cm). Again, on this line from the point P 5, set aside 4cm and put the point O (P 5 O \u003d 4cm). Down from the point O, set aside 8 cm and put the point O 1 (OO 1 \u003d 8 cm). Set aside 2 cm to the right of the point O and put the point O 2 (OO 2 \u003d 2 cm). Let's connect the points O 1 and O 2, on the straight line obtained from the point O 1 we set aside 8 cm and put the point O 3 (O 1 O 3 \u003d 8 cm). Now let's connect the points O 3 and P 1.

Armhole depth . From P down we set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest plus 7 cm (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and put the point G (PG = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 7.5 = 17.6cm). Draw a line through the point Г to the intersection with the straight line РН, denoting the intersection point G 1, to the line P 1 H 1, denoting the intersection point Г 3, and the point of intersection with the straight line from the point Р 3 denote G 2.

Back armhole cut . From G upwards, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2cm and put P 2 (GP 2 \u003d 1 / 3PG + CO \u003d 17.6: 3 + 2 \u003d 7.8 cm). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 1.5 cm and put the point P 3 (GP 3 \u003d 1 / 10 Shpr + CO \u003d 11.6: 10 + 1.5 \u003d 2.6 cm) we divide the GG 2 line in half and put G 4. Points P 1, P 2, P 3 and G 4 will be connected by a smooth line.

Shelf armhole cut . From G 2 upwards, set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 5 cm (for stooped figures + 4.5 cm, for kinky figures + 5.5 cm) and put P 4 (G 2 P 4 \u003d 1 / 4Сg + CO \u003d 40.5: 4 + 4.5=14.6cm). From P 4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the chest half-girth and put P 5 (P 4 P 5 \u003d 1 / 10Sg \u003d 40.5: 10 \u003d 4 cm). From G 2 upwards, set aside 1/3 of the segment G 2 P 4 and put P 6 (G 2 P 6 \u003d 1 / 3G 2 P 4 \u003d 14.6: 3 \u003d 4.8 cm). We connect the points P 5 and P 6 with a dotted line and divide it in half, from the division point to the right at a right angle we set aside 1 cm. Divide the angle at point G 2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 0.8 cm and mark the point P 7 (G 2 P 7 \u003d 1 / 10 Shpr + CO \u003d 11.6: 10 + 0.8 \u003d 1.9) . Let's connect with a smooth line the points P 5, 1, P 6, P 7, and G 4.

Shelf neck cut . From G 3 upwards, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the chest + 1.5 cm (for stooped figures + 1 cm, for kinky figures + 2 cm) and put R 7 (G 3 R 7 \u003d 1 / 2 Cr + CO \u003d 40.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 40.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 21.2cm). From G 2 we set aside the same value upwards and put a point P 8 (G 2 R 8 \u003d G 3 R 7 \u003d 21.2 cm). Let's connect the points P 7 and P 8. Now, from the point P 7 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and put P 9 (P 7 P 9 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5 cm). Down from the point P 7, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 2 cm and put the point P 10 (P 7 P 10 -1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 2 \u003d 7 cm). We connect the points P 9 and P 10, and divide the resulting segment in half. From the point P 7 we draw a straight line through the division point of the segment P 9 P 10, and on this line we set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 1cm and put the point P 11 (P 7 P 11 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 1 \u003d 6 cm). Connect the points P 9, P 11, P 10 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at the point P 10.

Shoulder section of the shelf and the line of the chest tuck . From G 3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and put G 6 (G 3 G 6 \u003d Tsg \u003d 9cm). From G 6 we draw a line up to the intersection with the line R 7 R 8, we denote the intersection point as R 12. From P 12 down, we set aside the measurement of the height of the chest and put a point G 7 (P 12 G 7 \u003d Vg \u003d 25 cm). From the point P 12 down, set aside 1 cm and put P 13 (P 12 P 13 \u003d 1 cm). We connect points P 9 and P 13. And we will connect the points P 13 and P 5 with a dotted line. On this line from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment R 9 R 13 and minus 0.3 cm, put the point R 14 (P 5 R 14 \u003d Dp-R 9 R 13 -0.3 \u003d 13-3-0, 3=9cm). From the point G 7 through the point P 14 we draw a segment equal to the segment G 7 R 13 and put the point P 15 (G 7 R 15 \u003d G 7 R 13). We connect points P 5 and P 15.

Side seam line . From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put a point G 5 (GG 5 \u003d 1 / 3Shpr \u003d 11.6: 3 \u003d 3.8 cm). Draw a vertical line through the point Г 5. At the intersection with the armhole line, we put point B, at the intersections with the waist, hips and bottom lines, we put points T 2, B 2, H 2.

Determining the solution of tucks along the waistline . We add 1 cm to the measure of the half-circumference of the waist (St + CO = 29 + 1 = 30 cm), subtract this value from the width of the dress along the line TT 1 (43.5-30 = 13.5 cm). Thus, we calculated the total amount of tuck solutions along the waist line, i.e. 13.5cm.
  • the size of the solution of the front tuck \u003d 0.25 of the total solution of the tucks (13.5 x 0.25 \u003d 3.4 cm),
  • the size of the side tuck solution = 0.45 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
  • the size of the back tuck solution = 0.3 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.3 \u003d 4.1 cm)
Determining the width of the dress along the hip line . We add 1 cm to the semi-girth of the hips (Sb + CO = 44.5 + 1 = 45.5 cm). From the obtained value, subtract the width of the dress along the line BB 1 (45.5-43.5 \u003d 2 cm). We will distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (1 cm each). Side tuck . From B 2 to the left and right, set aside the resulting difference (in my example, 1cm) and put points B 3 and B 4. From T 2 to the left and to the right, set aside half the solution of the side tuck (6: 2 \u003d 3 cm) and put T 3 and T 4. We connect point B with points T 3 and T 4. We will connect the points T 3, B 4 and T 4, B 3 with a dotted line, divide these segments in half, from the division points to the side we set aside 0.5 cm each and connect now we will draw a side cut with smooth lines through the points T 3, 0.5 and B 3 and through the points T 4 , 0.5, B 4 . Shelf waist line . From the point P 7 down, we set aside the measurement of the length of the front to the waist + 0.5 cm and put T 5 (P 7 T 5 \u003d Dtp + CO \u003d 42 + 0.5 \u003d 42.5 cm). We will connect points T 4 and T 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point T 5.

Shelf hip line . From B 1 down, set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 5 and put B 5 (B 1 B 5 \u003d T 1 T 5. We connect points B 3 and B 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point B 5 Shelf tuck . Draw a straight line from G 6 down to the intersection with the line BB 1. Intersections with the lines of the waist and hips will be denoted by points T 9 and B 7. From T 9 to the left and right, set aside half the solution of the front tuck (3.4: 2 \u003d 1.7 cm) and put T 10 and T 11. From G 7 down, and from B 7 up we set aside 4 cm, put points and connect them with T 10 and T 11.

Back tuck . Let's divide the segment ГГ 1 in half, and denote the division point Г 8. From G 8 we lower the line down to the intersection with the line BB 1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line, we put points T 6 and B 6. From T 6 to the left and right, set aside half of the back tuck solution (4.1: 2 \u003d 2 cm) and put T 7 and T 8. Set aside 1 cm from G 8 down, set aside 3 cm from B 6 up. We connect these points with T 7 and T 8

Shelf bottom line . From B 3 and B 4 we will draw lines down to the intersection with the straight line HH 1 and denote the points H 3 and H 4. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 5 and put a point H 5 (H 1 H 5 \u003d T 1 T 5). We will connect points H 3 and H 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at the point H 5.


shelf - the front of the product


Neck - neckline


Armhole - cutout for sleeves (cut from the shoulder to the side seams to connect the sleeves with the bodice)


tuck - excess fabric taken into the seam. With the help of darts, the necessary forms are given to the product.

In addition to the dress, you can build a pattern of a single-seam set-in sleeve.

Information prepared based on the materials of the author Valentina Nivina Internet resource