I know that a mother on maternity leave can be overwhelmed with chores, but from my own experience, I recommend distracting from household chores and finding time to learn something new. It saves me from postpartum depression, when all things are continuous diapers and clinics. If you are attracted to needlework, and you have mastered the simplest operations on your sewing machine- then in today's sewing master class for beginners, I will teach you how to sew a blouse for your baby using finished pattern for children under 1 year old. It took me exactly an hour and a half to sew - while my son was sleeping, you can still take your time and break the work into stages.

To sew a blouse for a baby you will need:

• knitwear - 40 cm.
• threads - 1 spool
• scissors, tailor's pins, sewing machine

Patterns of blouses for children under 1 year old

There are many ways to get free patterns for kids, today I will share two of them with you. The fastest and most proven in practice is to rip up an already existing and worn-out thing and sew on it.

1. I take a worn blouse, cut it into pattern details: front, back, sleeve

If you don't have suitable clothes, which can be used for patterns, you can download free blouse patterns for children in size 62 - 92 op link. The pattern is given in real size, you need to print it on A4 sheets and glue it.

How to sew a blouse for a baby

In order to sew a blouse to my size, I need a well-stretched jersey, 80 cm was enough for me, even left for panties.

2. I bend the details of the shelf and back in half and apply them to the fold of the fabric. I fix it on the fabric with tailor's pins.

3. I cut out four parts with allowances of 1 cm from the edge: front, back and two sleeves.

4. Along the neckline on the details of the shelves and backs, I bend the fabric inward by 1 cm. I fix it with tailor's pins. I do the same for the bottom of the sleeves.

5. I sew on the overlock along the edges with a flat seam. If you don't have an overlocker, use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the edges. Then fold the fabric inward by 1 cm and lay a regular straight stitch.

6. With the help of tailor's pins, I collect the shelf, back and sleeves along the armhole line, as shown in the photo.

7. On a sewing machine, I connect the parts with a straight line, adhering to 1 cm from the edge of the fabric. I overcast the edges on the overlocker. Can be replaced with a zigzag stitch.

8. First I fix with pins, a line side cut and sleeves, then I sew on a sewing machine, without removing the pins 1 cm from the edge. I sweep.

9. I twist, process the bottom line as in paragraph 5. Ready! As you can see, I did not stop at one copy, but sewed as many as three blouses for my baby. When I ran out of fabric, I took my boring T-shirts and recut them. I think it turned out great, especially since things get dirty quickly by children - and it doesn’t hurt to have a couple of T-shirts in reserve!

Undershirts

Pattern of a thin undershirt

Pattern of a vest with closed sleeves

Pattern of a vest with a one-piece front and back

Blouse pattern with buttons: two sizes from 4 to 7 months (in brackets from 7 to 12 months)

Cut out one front and back piece, two sleeve pieces, adding 0.5 cm seam allowances and hem (bottom - 2 cm, sleeves 1.7 cm - if cuffs are not sewn on). Neck allowance - 0.5 cm.

Overcast the front edge of the closure allowance. Unscrew the one-piece bar for the front fastener to the wrong side by 2 cm. You can stitch the fasteners at a distance of 1.5 cm from the bend of the bar, so that later, during ironing, the bar does not constantly roll into a tube.

Sew shoulder seams. Fold the cuffs inside out along the fold line, attach along the bottom of the sleeve, slightly stretching the edge of the cuff and gathering the bottom of the sleeve, and stitch. Sew on the sleeves. Sew the seams of the sleeve and side seams. Sew on the collar. Overcast the seams.

Turn the hem allowance on the bottom of the blouse to the wrong side and sew.

Make loops and sew on buttons.

T-shirt pattern: about 64-74 cm tall. (6-10 months)

You can sew a T-shirt from a cotton jersey type fabric. Details from such a fabric are ground down with a narrow zigzag stitch or a special elastic stitch.

Cut out one detail at the front and back, adding 0.5 cm seam and hem allowances (bottom - 2 cm, sleeves 1.7 cm), as well as edging for a neckline 30 cm long and 3 cm wide. Neck allowance - 0.5 cm.

Overcast the top edge of the closure allowance. Fold the one-piece facing of the allowance for the fastener of the back in half, turning it to the wrong side. Loops will be made on it. Unscrew the one-piece facing of the front fastener to the wrong side. Buttons will be sewn to it. Sew the fasteners at a distance of 2.5 cm from the fold of the facing. Run the second shoulder seam (which is without a fastener). Fold the inlay with the neck with the front sides, stitch the inlay, unscrew it to the wrong side, tuck it and sew it to the stitching seam.

Lay the front and back fasteners on top of each other so that shoulder lines front and back matched. Sew on the sleeves. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.

Turn the hem allowances on the bottom of the T-shirt and the bottom of the sleeves to the wrong side and stitch with a double needle.

Blouse

As soon as the child begins to actively move, the vest already becomes uncomfortable. She is replaced by either a blouse with a tie in front, or a blouse with buttons or buttons.

You sew a blouse for the summer or for the winter, with short sleeves or long ones, the child sleeps on his back or tries to sleep on his tummy all the time, which blouse is most convenient for you to put on your baby - these and many other reasons will help you choose the most comfortable blouse pattern.

The choice of fabric, the color of the fabric, the pattern, the shape of the buttons will determine the purpose of the blouse - for home, for sleeping, for walking, etc.

Sewing blouses for children under 1 year old is distinguished by the least number of seams so as not to irritate the skin of the child.

For children's undershirts, the following sizes are taken:

We build a right angle with the vertex - point A. Down we lay the length of the undershirt - point B. From point A to the right we set aside the width of the undershirt and set point C. From point B we draw a horizontal line to the right. From point C down - a vertical line. The intersection of lines - point D.

We build a line separating the front from the back. From point A, we set aside a segment equal to half the distance AC plus 0.5 cm and set point E (the back is slightly wider than the front). Draw a line from point E.

shoulder line: from point A down we lay down 1/10 AC - point F. From point F to the right we draw a horizontal line to the straight line CD.

Armhole depth: down from point A we set aside a segment equal to half the distance AC minus 1.5 cm. From the resulting point G we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the line CD.

Back neckline: from point A we set aside a segment to the right equal to 1/3 of the distance AE plus 1 cm and set point H. From point A we set aside a segment equal to ½ of the distance AF. We connect the resulting point with a smooth line with point H.

Back shoulder line: we connect point H with the point of intersection of the vertical line E with the horizontal line F. From the point of intersection, set aside 1.5 cm to the left along the inclined line and mark with point I. HI is the length of the shoulder section of the back.

Back armhole line: we build an auxiliary line IK, where K is the point of intersection of the vertical line E and the horizontal line G. We connect the points I and K with a smooth line, deepening the line to the bottom left by about 1.5 cm in relation to the auxiliary line. It turned out the armhole line.

The vertical line AB is the line of the middle of the back.

Front neckline: to the left of point C we set aside a segment equal to AH minus 0.5 cm - point L. From point C we lay down a segment of the same length. And we connect the resulting point with a slightly concave line with point L.

Front shoulder length: from the point of intersection of the horizontal line F with the vertical line E, set aside 1 cm vertically. We connect this point with an oblique point with point L. Along this line, we set aside the segment LM, equal in magnitude to HI, to the right.

Armhole front line: we build an auxiliary dotted line MK. Then we connect these points with a line deviating to the right by 1.5 cm from the auxiliary inclined line, thus forming an armhole line.

The vertical line CD is the mid-front line.

Construction of a sleeve pattern.

In the middle of the upper part of the sheet, draw a right angle with the apex at point A.

The length of the sleeve: From point A down we postpone measure taken sleeve length and set point B. Draw a horizontal line from point B to the right. From point A we set aside the width of the sleeve to the right and denote the resulting point - point C. From point C we lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the horizontal B - point D. From point C we lay down a segment equal to 1/3 AC. We connect the resulting point E with an inclined dotted line with point A. The line of the collar of the sleeve is obtained by connecting point A with point E with a smooth line deviating upwards from the auxiliary line by 1.5 cm.

Sleeve seam line: from point D to the left horizontally we measure 2.5 cm and put a point. We connect this point with point E - this will be the seam line of the sleeve.

For getting complete pattern sleeve, fold a sheet of paper in half along the AB line and cut out the pattern along the contour lines. Straighten the paper along the fold line.

The resulting pattern can be used in different ways.

To sew a vest with ties along the front of the neck, we cut out as follows:

For sewing T-shirts, the length of the sleeves is reduced, the details of the back and front are cut out separately, and fasteners are made on one or both shoulders. Small children really do not like it when they put on blouses with a narrow neck. In addition, in children up to a year, the volume of the head is almost equal to the volume of the chest.

To sew a blouse with a fastener with buttons or buttons along the front of the neck, we cut it out as follows:

Add a one-piece bar for the fastener on the halves of the front. To do this, on the front pattern, we continue to the right both the neck depth line and the horizontal line D by about 5 cm (1.5 cm for the fastener, and 3.5 cm for the hem of the bar). The resulting points are connected by a segment. The dotted line indicates the fold line of the bar.

In this case, cuffs can be sewn to the sleeves. Then, during sleep, the child will not constantly ride up the sleeves. And the baby will be warmer too.

And one more feature - children grow very quickly, and a blouse with cuffs can be sewn slightly for growth (by 1-2 cm), and the cuffs will hold the sleeve in the right place.

This pattern can be used to sew a dress with a clasp on the back for a girl. To do this, the length of the pattern of the front and back parts is reduced by about 8 cm, if desired, the length of the sleeve is reduced, and the sleeve can be made wider. The fastening strap goes from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. To build a plank in the middle of the back, we continue horizontally to the left, both the neckline line and the horizontal line B, 3-5 cm beyond the vertical line AB. We connect the points obtained from the continuation of these lines with a vertical line, thus obtaining a bar in the middle of the back. We cut out the skirt of the dress in the form of a rectangle with sides 23-28 cm in height and in width, exceeding the width of the unfolded pattern of the bodice of the dress by 1.3 - 1.5 times.

T-shirt (height 80-84)

T-shirt must be sewn from natural material, for example from knitted fabric from 100% cotton. To do this, you can use your old T-shirts, T-shirts, if you are sure that they are made of cotton.

Cut out the details of the front and back, adding allowances for the seams:

0.5 cm - on the sides, 1.5 cm - at the bottom, 0.75 cm - along the sleeve and neckline.

Cut out two edging inlays for the hem of the sleeve, 30 cm long and 3 cm wide, and one edging inlay for the neckline, 47 cm long and 3 cm wide.

Use a narrow zigzag stitch or a special elastic stitch with a thin enough needle to sew the details.

Sew one shoulder seam of the shirt. Sew a piping around the neckline. Sew the second shoulder seam, stitching the edges of the piping trim as well. Sew piping around the sleeves. Sew the side seams. Turn the bottom of the shirt over and sew with an elastic stitch.

You may immediately wonder: why such a big gap in the growth of the child? The pattern is designed in such a way that a sleeve can be rolled up on a child with a height of 92, and the sweatshirt will be 44 cm long from the neck, for a child with a height of 104 cm, the sleeve can not be rolled up, and it is better to measure the desired length of the sweatshirt for a specific child. I suggest you universal option You can change or add to it.

Building the front and back of the pattern

Just in case, in a nutshell I will explain how I built the drawing:

1. We draw a rectangle with sides 37 and 44 cm.
2. Divide the horizontal 37 in half and draw the vertical up. We put an end (this is our middle of the neck).
3. From this point to the right, set aside 8 cm (put a point) and 18 cm (this is the level of the shoulder).
4. From point 18 down 2.5 cm - shoulder point. We connect points 8 and 2.5 with a straight line - the line of the shoulder.
5. From the center point of the neck, lay down 18 cm - the level of the armpits. Let's go horizontal.
6. We draw an armhole, by eye, the length of the armhole line should be 16 cm (we measure it with a centimeter tape).
7. From the center point of the neck down, we set aside 5 cm - the level of the front neck, and 1.5 cm - the level of the neck of the back.
8. We do the same on the left side of the drawing, draw the neck roundly.
9. I make a zipper in the center of the sweatshirt, so at the end of the drawing we divide the part of the front in the center into two halves to sew the zipper in there. If desired, you can not make a zipper, but make a polo fastener (but this is longer in time).

Sleeve construction

1. Initially, we build a rectangle with sides 28 and 32 cm.
2. Divide side 28 in half by 14 cm on both sides, draw a vertical line through the entire rectangle, dividing it into two parts - the line of the middle of the sleeve.
3. From the upper point of the middle of the sleeve, lay down 7 cm. At this level, the width of the sleeve is 28 cm.
4. At the bottom of the sleeve, the width is 22 cm, from the middle line we set aside 11 cm.
5. We connect the sides of the sleeve drawing with straight lines.
6. We draw an eye on the eye, the length of the eye of the sleeve is 32 cm.

Building a plank - rack

We measure the length of the neck of the front and back, I got 37 cm, you can have your own value, it depends on the roundness of your traced neck, in general, in any case, it is better to measure ...

Stand height 7 cm.

allowances.

We cut all the details with allowances of 1 cm, along the bottom of the product and on the sleeves - 4 cm, allowances on the stand - 2.5 cm (to insert an elastic band there).

We sew a fleece sweatshirt

For the sweatshirt, I bought double-sided fleece (with a dark blue and light blue side), and it turned out to be very warm, maybe only for extreme cold, so it was possible to sew from single-sided fleece.

Cut out fleece pieces.

Sew the details of the front and back along the side and shoulder seams. I do not process allowances, since the fleece does not fray.

We sew the sleeves with a "tube". I deliberately laid the fold of the sleeves “for growth”, so I lengthened the pattern by 4 cm in addition to allowances.

We sew a rack to the neck, turn the upper cut of the rack to the inside, so that later we can put an elastic band there. On the front side we make a lining stitch, sewing (and thus fixing) the neck allowances to the front and back of the sweatshirt. In my opinion, it’s more beautiful this way, but you can not do this line.

Now we sew the zipper using a special foot for a zipper on a typewriter. We first sew one side of the zipper, and then close it and join the seam of the neck (so that it is on the same level with the zipper closed). We pin or tack (it depends on your experience in sewing on zippers) the second half of the zipper and only then we sew it on a typewriter.

Do not sew the second part of the zipper on the eye without first docking, otherwise the zipper will move in any way, at least by 0.5 cm, and it will be evident that it is sewn crookedly - you will have to redo it.

I decided to make a slip stitch and fix the zipper allowances to the front piece. So the zipper will close better.

Let's move on to the bottom of the sweatshirt. I purposely made such large allowances - for a large collar, to insert an elastic band, and so that you can dissolve and lengthen it when the child grows up.

We tuck it on the wrong side and make a wide tuck (cm 2), so that later we can insert an elastic band there.

I will insert an elastic band with latches, it is possible without them, I just already have latches, why not insert them))!

To insert the retainer - you need to make two tiny cuts on the inside of the tucked allowances, at a distance of 1 cm from each other. And we put on a rubber band.

Without a latch, we immediately fix the gum with a slight stretch. And sew on both sides.

Here is such a good bottom of the sweatshirt turned out:

We also insert an elastic band into the neck stand, but here I made a latch on one side, and on the other, I simply sewed the two ends of the elastic band to the edge of the bar, hid the allowances inside.

On the front side of the sweatshirt I made a drawing acrylic paints for fabrics, so that the sweatshirt is more fun)).

How to sew a hood on a sweatshirt?

I received an email from a reader asking me to hood patterns for this sweatshirt. Therefore, I decided to supplement the article and schematically explain how you can build a pattern and sew a hood on it.

You can, of course, get confused, and build a hood according to all the rules, such a construction begins in the same way as the construction of the collar, only we are still lengthening the pattern to the desired height of the child's head.

But now I want to show how to complete the hood for this sweatshirt without making a special pattern.

To do this, fold the sweatshirt in such a way that the fold on the left is the center of the back, and the fold on the right coincides with the zipper. Thus, the sleeve of the sweatshirt will be in the center. But we are interested in the neck line, it has a curved shape.

We lay out the sweatshirt on a sheet of graph paper and translate the neck line onto paper.

To build the hood area, you need to draw verticals from the extreme points of the neck (figuratively speaking, these verticals continue the lines of the middle of the back and lightning).

Now we set aside 20 cm from the side of the back on the vertical of the hood, and 23 cm from the side of the zipper. We build a rectangle, connecting these points with a horizontal line.

I gave as an example the values ​​\u200b\u200bof 20 and 23 cm, but they may differ from yours, as there may be an error of 1 - 2 cm. But the meaning is that the upper horizontal line of the hood forms with vertical lines (continuations of the line of the back and lightning) right angles.

Such a hood will consist of two parts: the left and right halves, which will need to be sewn along a rounded line, folded face to face. And we get a hood with a seam along the center line.

If desired, you can insert an elastic band that will slightly tighten the hood around the oval of the face, but then you need to take this into account when building and add 3 cm for allowances, instead of 1 cm from the side of the face line, and then definitely do not make this line with a deflection inward.

Then we sew the hood to the neck line, like a collar.

Perhaps, this is all)))).

Share your work with me in the comments, I will be very happy)) and sew with me, see you on the blog pages).

See also an interesting video about how sew a sweatshirt with a hood:

You can download a blouse pattern for a girl for free at the desired size using the following links:

* As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to the email address you specified. If the file has not arrived, then you need to check whether you entered the correct postal address when paying. In any case, if you do not receive the pattern, you do not need to pay again, just contact immediately at [email protected]

**You can offer your payment option in the website feedback

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

Allowances: add 1.5 cm to the seams and all cuts, 1-2 cm to hem the bottom.

cutting:

1. shelf-2 children

2. backrest-1 children. With a fold

3. sleeve - 2 children

4. collar with a fold - 2 children

5. collar stand with fold - 2 children

6. cuff-2 children

7. mold-2 children

8. plank shelves-2 children

Duplication with a gasket:

Shelf placket - completely both parts, 1 collar and 1 collar stand

Sewing:

• Back, shelf, shelf strap.

Stitch darts on the back. Depths iron to the line of the middle of the back. Duplicate the planks of the shelves with an adhesive pad and iron them evenly in half along the entire length. When cutting the details of the mold, pay attention to the direction of the shared thread. Process the details of the mold with a rolled seam on an overlock or a Moscow seam, iron. Pin the finished mold to the shelves. Expand the shelf bar and pin face to face to the shelf. Stitch. Do not forget that in this case the bottom of the bar must match the length of the shelf. We iron the seam ON the side of the bar. We process the second long side of the strap with an overlock, fold along the ironed middle to the wrong side, pin and sew. We do the same on the second shelf. At this stage, the straps can be additionally stitched with front side. Stitch side and shoulder sections. Overlap the seam allowances and iron ON the back.

• Collar.

Stitch doubled and non-doubled collars face to face. We will have a duplicated collar at the bottom, not duplicated at the top. We cut off the allowances of the duplicated collar close to the line (not reaching the line 1-3 mm). We cut the allowances of the upper non-duplicated collar on the roundings of the collar. We turn the collar on the face, gently straighten it with our fingers. We iron it so that the upper non-duplicated part has a slight “influx” on the lower collar. This is necessary so that during operation the upper collar does not pull up the lower collar. Our collar at this stage is ready. Put the finished collar between two collar posts, chop off, stitch. Don't forget that the duplicated collar stand should be on the side of the duplicated collar! You need to combine the parts starting from the middle, then we get a strictly symmetrical part as a result. We cut the allowances of the duplicated collar stand close to the line, the rest is notched on the roundings, turned inside out, and smoothed. We pin the non-duplicated collar stand face to face to the product. You need to start from the middle. The mark on the collar stand must match the shoulder seam on the product. We grind. We iron the connection seam ON the collar stand. We tuck the duplicated collar stand, pin it and sew it to the product.

• Sleeves.

On each sleeve lay soft folds according to the markup. Sew the seams of the sleeves. Because cuffs without buttons are provided in this model, cuffs are not duplicated. I propose to cut them out of knitwear such as butter. We fold the cuffs in half face inward and grind a short cut on the overlock. Turn it right side out and fold the ring in half. We sew the cuff face to face to the bottom of the sleeve, process the cut with an overlock and iron it on the sleeve. We sew the head of the sleeve at the distance of the allowance with a line with the longest stitch length. We combine the middle of the sleeve with the shoulder seam on the blouse, we combine the side marks of the sleeve with the marks on the shelf and back. Gently tighten the ends of the thread - this will immediately show how much you need to gather the sleeve so that it sits in the armhole. Gently straighten, pin and sew the sleeve into the armhole. We remove the tightening thread, we process the sections of the sleeve and the shelves taken together with an overlock.