"Opening the garment"

5, 6.7 class
Test on the topic "Cutting a garment" Grade 5

(one or more).

1. The arrow on the pattern sheet means:

a) the direction of the shared thread;

b) the direction of the transverse thread.
2. Cutting is:

a) cutting paper parts garments obtained in accordance with the drawing;

b) the process of obtaining fabric parts by cutting them out of a piece of fabric;

c) the process of obtaining fabric parts by cutting them out of a piece of fabric in accordance with the details of the pattern, taking into account seam allowances.

c) the width of the fabric;

d) the direction of the weft threads;

e) the size of the seam allowances.

1. 
   Write the correct answers: the front side of the fabric from the wrong side can be determined:

1. 
   Specify correct sequence technological operations when laying out patterns on fabric:

b) lay out large parts;

c) chop the fabric with pins;

e) pin large details;

e) determine the front side of the fabric;

g) draw control lines and points;

h) mark processing allowances;

i) circle the details along the contour;

j) determine the share thread.

1. 
   a, b, c, d
2. 
   a) by the brightness and clarity of the picture; b) by the presence of gloss;

5. k, f, c, b, a, e, d, i, h, g

Test on the topic "Cutting a garment" Grade 6

Write all the correct answers (one or more).
1. The transfer of the pattern to the fabric is carried out using:

a) running stitches;

c) copy stitches;

d) tailor's chalk;

e) diagonal stitches.

g) determine the share thread;

h) pin small and large parts;

i) Decompose large and small parts.
Answers:

1. 
   b, c, d
2. 
   g, c, a, i, h, e, b, d, f

Test on the topic "Cutting a garment" Grade 7

Write all correct answers (one or more)
1. Control lines on the details of the cut are laid with stitches:

a) estimated;

b) copying;

c) oblique.

c) at an angle of 45 degrees;

d) in the direction of the shared thread of the main part;

e) perpendicular to the share thread of the main part.

a) manicure;

b) garden;

c) stationery;

d) tailors.

1. 
   when cutting out an oblique inlay, its lobar thread is placed:

c) at an angle of 45 degrees to the share thread of the fabric;

d) along the inlay.

1. 
   When cutting the product, you must consider:

b) the direction of the warp threads;

c) the width of the fabric;

d) the amount of seam allowances;

e) pile direction.
Answers:

1. 
   a B C D E

§ 13. Bead processing

Edging

The edge along the edges of the sides of the product is laid to fix the shape of the coat and protect its edges from stretching during wear. The edge begins to be laid from the right shelf from the top point of the inflection of the lapel, skipping over it 1 cm towards the armhole and continuing along the neck, lapel, side and bottom of the shelf in a section 30 cm long (Fig. 111).

On the left shelf, the edge is laid from the bottom up, on the right, from the top down. Along the inflection of the lapel, the edge is laid at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the inflection line of the lapel from the cut of the neck parallel to this line, retreating 0.8 cm towards the armhole.

For the subsequent attachment of the ends of the edge to the seam of sewing in the lower collar, it is passed over the line of laying the edge along the neckline by 1-2 cm.

The edge is pre-bathed on a special machine or manually with straight stitches 1-1.5 cm long, closing the outer cut of the side gasket by 0.2 cm, while planting the edges of the side and lapel. The amount of fit of the edges of the lapel to the edge depends on the shape and style of the coat.

The approximate fit of the shelves on the edge is as follows: along the neck and the ledge of the lapel 0.2 cm, on the rest of the lapel up to the top loop 0.5-0.6 cm, along the side (between the loops) 0.5 cm, in the rest of the side and at the bottom 0.2-0.3 cm, along the inflection line of the lapel 0.5-0.8 cm. When basting the edge with hand stitches, reinforcing cross stitches are placed every 8-10 cm to secure the fit.

After basting the edges, the length of the right and left sides is compared by applying one side to the other. If their length is different, the defect is eliminated by re-basting the edge.

The outer and inner edges of the edge along the board, lapel and bottom are sewn on a blind stitch machine or manually with oblique hemming stitches 0.5-0.7 cm long. At the same time, the outer edge of the edge is first sewn, then the inner one.

The edges of the hem, laid along the inflection line of the lapel, are sewn to the side gasket on both sides on a blind stitch machine.

In products made of thin fabrics, the outer edge of the edge is not sewn, it is fixed when turning the sides.

After sewing on the edge, the basting threads are removed, the edges of the sides and lapels are ironed on the press or with an iron from the side of the side gasket at a width of 10-12 cm from the edge of the side, while ironing the edge along the bottom of the shelves.

When laying the edge using the adhesive method, the side gasket along the edge of the bead is cut out by 1.2-1.6 cm, depending on the thickness of the fabric, along the edge of the lapel, ledge and neckline by 1-1.5 cm, along the bottom line by 0.5 cm from fold lines.

The middle of the edge along the width must pass along the outer cut of the side gasket. The edge of the fabric with one-sided adhesive coating is applied to the edge of the bead with the adhesive side down and attached with an iron, distributing the fit in the same way as when laying the non-adhesive edge. The strength of the fastening of the edge depends on the time of processing each section with an iron (30-40 s). In this regard, to reduce the time, the final fastening of the edge is performed on the press after processing the sides. In the same way, lay the edge along the inflection line of the lapel.

The correctness of the landing of the shelves on the edge is checked by the same methods as when checking the correctness of the sutyuzhivaniya of the shelves for the bulge of the chest.

Connecting pickups to the product

The basting of the picks on the shelves is performed on the table. Shelves and picks fold face to face, placing them with the edge of the board to the worker. Along the cut of the neck and lapel, the selection is released by 1-1.5 cm; along the edge of the side, the sections of the shelf and the edge are equalized. The pick-up is basted with oblique stitches 1-1.5 cm long, the basting line is laid parallel to the cuts of the lapel and the side, retreating from them by 0.8-1 cm. When basting, the pick-up is planted along the edge of the lapel and in the upper corner by 1-1.5 cm , in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe loops by 0.8-1 cm. From the bottom loop to the bottom, the selection is basted without landing and without tension. The amount of fit depends on the material and design of the product (Fig. 112).

On the left shelf, the selection is basted, starting from the top down, on the right - from the bottom up, observing the same rules and techniques as when basting the selection on the left shelf.

In striped fabric products, the outer edge of the collar along the edge of the lapel is cut parallel to the strip; when basting the collars on the shelves along the edge of the lapel, the cut edges of the collar and the shelves are combined. The rest of the processing is carried out normally.

The landing of the pick-ups is sutured, pre-moistening the pick-up.

Before turning, the corners of the lapels and sides at the bottom are shallowed according to auxiliary patterns. Shallowing is performed from the side of the onboard gasket, placing chalk lines from the cuts of the shelf at a distance of 0.5 cm.

The sides are turned near the edge or along the edge. A line is laid near the edge in the case when its outer edge is pre-sewn. Lapels are turned near the outer edge of the edge, the sides - at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge of the edge (to form an edge from the shelf fabric).

In the case when the outer edge of the edge is not sewn, then the upper and lower corners of the shelves are turned along the marked lines, the remaining sections - along the edge, at a distance of 0.1 cm from its outer edge.

The sides are turned on a machine with a knife. The width of the seam depends on the method of processing the sides; when fluffing the sides or laying finishing stitch along the edge, the seam width is 0.3-0.4 cm, and when processing into a "clean edge" 0.6-0.7 cm. At the corners of the sides and lapels, the seams are cut, leaving 0.2 cm. At the point of the ledge of the lapel, the selection and the shelf is cut perpendicular to the neck line, not reaching the line 0.1-0.2 cm.

To connect the picks with shelves without preliminary basting, a special machine 206 class can be used. PMZ with a knife for cutting fabric. On the shelves in the usual way, the lines for turning the corners of the lapel and the bottom of the side are marked according to the patterns. The pick-up is folded with shelves with the front sides inward, while the pick-up is released along the cuts of the lapel, neck and shoulder section by 0.8-1 cm.

The sides are turned along the shelves from the side of the side gasket.

The seams of turning the sides are moistened and ironed out on a press or with an iron on a special block, the seams in the corners of the lapels and sides are ironed out.

Beading

When processing the sides into a "clean edge", the cuts of the seams of the turning after ironing are cut, leaving 0.3-0.4 cm along the entire length of the side from the side of the shelves, 0.8-1.0 cm from the side of the hem. Then the cut of the hem is sewn to edge or to the side gasket on a blind stitch machine or hand hemming stitches 0.7 cm long, arching the edges so that a piping is formed along the side from the shelf, and along the lapel from the selection. The width of the edge is 0.2 cm. The excess thickness of the fabric in the corners of the lapel and the side is cut out, leaving an allowance of 0.15-0.2 cm wide. Cuts are made at the ends of the ledges, not reaching the line by 0.1-0.2 cm. The pick-up is turned on the front side, straightening the corners, and the sides are swept out. The lapels are swept from the side of the shelf, making an edging from the selection with a width of 0.2 cm, and the board - from the side of the selection, releasing an edging from the shelf with a width of 0.2 cm.

The bottom of the coat is swept from the side of the hem allowance along the intended line.

Basting is carried out on a basting machine or with manual oblique stitches 0.7-1 cm long at a distance of 0.8-1 cm from the edge (Fig. 113).

For a more correct distribution and fixing of the fit of the bands in the lapel area, two basting lines are laid from the side of the bands. The first line is laid at a distance of 2-2.5 cm from the edge of the bead, the second - from the inner cut of the selection parallel to the ledge of the lapel (the selection is evenly planted on the kink of the lapel).

When processing the sides with an adhesive method, the cuts of the lapels, sides and bottom are fixed with an adhesive film, which is laid on the film machine from the side of the side gasket after ironing the seams of turning the sides.

The outer edge of the adhesive film along the board is placed at a distance of 0.2 cm from the turning line, and at the bottom - at a hem allowance of 0.1 cm from the intended hem line. The turning out of the headboards and the sweeping of the sides and the bottom are performed in the same way as when processing the sides into a "clean edge".

When processing the sides and bottom with a finishing line, the cuts of the turning seams are trimmed, leaving 0.3-0.4 cm along the entire length of the side (from the side of the shelf and the selection is the same). In individual production, in products made of thick fabrics, the pile from the seam of turning the bead is removed with a knife. Then the seams of turning the sides are ironed out, turned out to the front side, straightening the corners, and swept out in the usual way.

The second basting line is laid from the side of the hem, retreating from the edges of the lapel and the side by 2-2.5 cm. Then the bottom of the product is noticed, placing the line in the middle of the hem width. After basting, the edges of the sides and the bottom of the coat are ironed on a press or iron. The lapels are ironed from the side of the shelves, the sides - from the side of the bands, the bottom - from the side of the hem. Ironing is performed through a moistened iron. At the same time, side seams, pockets and other parts of the shelves and back are ironed.

Finishing stitching

After ironing the top of the coat (if necessary according to the model), a finishing line is laid along the edges of the lapels, sides and bottom of the product with front side(Fig. 114). In a coat with fur collar Finishing line on the lapel should be laid before the collar is connected to the product, in a coat with a collar from the main fabric - after the collar is connected to the product.

The finishing line is laid with silk threads, matching in color with the fabric of the top. The distance from the edge to the line is set according to the model.

Loop processing

Loops are marked on the sides from the side of the shelf, on the lapel - from the side of the selection according to an auxiliary pattern. The number of loops on the sides depends on the model.

The top loop is marked 2 cm below the end of the lapel fold line. The distance between the loops should be 12-14 cm.

Loops from the edge of the side are marked in double-breasted products at a distance of 2-2.5 cm, in single-breasted products - at a distance of 3-4 cm. On the lapels, the loops are placed parallel to the ledge line, and on the shelves - perpendicular to the edge of the side.

The loops are overcast on a special buttonhole machine or with manual buttonhole stitches with a garus, matching in color with the fabric of the top.

When overcasting buttonholes on a buttonhole machine, their location is marked from the side of the selection, therefore, overcasting is carried out from the side of the selection.

After overcasting the loops, the ends of the threads are threaded inside the sides with a special hook and cut off. At the end of the loops, bartacks are placed on a special bartacking machine or manually perpendicular to the loop, capturing both edges of the loop.

When overcasting loops with manual buttonhole stitches, the location of the loops is marked from the side of the shelf. The holes for the loops are cut through with a mechanical punch, the blade of which has the shape of a loop with an eye. First, the cut edges of the loops are overcast over the edge with oblique overcasting stitches with threads in the color of the fabric, and then with looped stitches with silk threads (garus) with a carcass thread. After overcasting, the loops are fastened, the eyes of the loops are straightened with a peg.

In products with a fastener to the top, loops on the lapel are overcast through.

Sewing on buttons

In double-breasted products, buttons are sewn on the left and right shelves, in single-breasted products - only on the right shelf. The places for sewing buttons on the shelves are marked according to the location of the loops, putting the left shelf on the right one, equalizing the bottom and sides of the shelves.

The locations of the buttons on the slots of the sleeves, straps and other details are outlined according to the auxiliary pattern. The places for sewing on buttons intended for fastening inner pockets are marked according to the location of the loops.

Buttons are sewn on a special machine or manually.

Buttons intended for fastening are sewn on a stand with a height of 0.3-0.5 cm, depending on the thickness of the edge of the bead.

On sleeve vents, inner pockets and straps, buttons are sewn without a stand.

Features of the processing of the bead with a secret fastener

In products with a secret fastener, the right side is processed in the usual way. The processing of the left side has a number of features.

A clasp is marked on the left hem in the loop section, making notches on the hem with a depth of 0.8 cm at its upper and lower ends. On the underside of the underside, along the entire length of the fastener, a non-woven lining or cotton fabric, retreating from the cut edge by 0.9 cm. The gasket is sewn with straight stitches 2-2.5 cm long in two lines. An edge is laid on the fastener section, closing the outer edge of the gasket by 0.1 cm, the edge with an adhesive coating is laid with an iron (Fig. 115, a).

On the front side of the selection in the area of ​​​​the fastener, a facing is applied from lining fabric face down so that its allowances at the upper and lower ends of the fastener are equal, and the trimmed edges of the facing and the selection are combined. The facing is stitched with a seam 0.4 cm wide, the seam is ironed.

Then the facing is unscrewed to the wrong side of the pick and a frame 0.5 cm wide is sewn out of the pick. It is sewn on a basting machine or with manual straight stitches 0.5-0.8 cm long.

The selection in the fastener area is ironed from the wrong side through a moistened ironing iron. Then, along the processed edge of the selection, a finishing line is laid on the front side at a distance of 0.4-0.5 cm from the edge (see Fig. 115, b).

On the front side of the selection, the locations of the loops are marked. The upper loop is marked 2 cm below the upper notch, the lower loop is 4 cm above the lower notch. The remaining loops are placed at an equal distance from each other. From the edge of the selection, the loops are marked at a distance of 2 cm. The loops are overcast on a loop machine.

When basing the edge of the bead on the left shelf, the location of the fastener is marked and in this area an allowance for the width of the bead equal to 0.5 cm is given. At the lower and upper ends of the fastener, notches are made with a depth of 0.8 cm. The edge along the edge of the bead is laid as usual. At the fastener section, the bead is turned with a facing from the lining fabric, folding the facing with a shelf face to face. The width of the turning seam is 0.4 cm (Fig. 116). Then the turning seam is ironed out, the turning is placed on the wrong side and the edge of the bead is processed, releasing the edge from the shelf 0.3 cm wide (Fig. 117). The board on the fastener section is ironed from the wrong side through a moistened iron. The finished edge of the fastener is sewn from the front side. The width of the finishing line corresponds to the width of the line according to the model.

The finished edge of the pick at the top notch should be located at a distance of 0.3 cm from the finished edge of the bead to the side side seam, and at the lower notch go beyond the processed edge of the bead by 0.2 cm.

Baste the selection along the lapel and along the lower edge of the side in the usual way. The fit in the corners of the lapels is sutured. Turning the lapel starts from the point of the ledge of the lapel and ends at the top notch of the hidden fastener. The lower part of the bead is turned, starting from the lower notch to the bottom of the product. The basting lines are removed and the bead turning seam is ironed out. Then the turning seams are trimmed, the collar is turned on the front side, straightening the corners, and the edges of the lapel and the side are basted in the usual way (Fig. 119).

On the fastener section, the edge of the pick is placed at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge of the side of the shelf. The sides and lapels are ironed in the manner described above.

The outer edge of the selection in the section of the fastener is fastened to the edge of the bead with bartacks, which are located between the loops and at the ends of the fastener.

The inner edges of the hem and the facing of the bead in the section of the fastener are ground down with a seam 1 cm wide and sewn to the side gasket on a blind stitch machine.

On the left shelf, the second line, which secures the hidden fastener, is laid on the front side, starting from the point of the ledge of the lapel down parallel to the edge of the side, retreating from it by 7-8 cm. Finish the line at the level of the lower end of the fastener.

To fix the form models of jackets and coats, created by tucks and wet-heat treatment, as well as to protect the edges of the side and the bottom of the product from stretching that occurs during wear, an edge is laid. It is located in the upper part from the level of the inflection of the lapel along the cut of the neck, lapel, side and along the bottom of the product 300 mm long from the side corner, and in products made of cotton fabrics - at least 150-200 mm. In products with a fastener up to the lapel, to ensure the fit of the shelf to the figure and to prevent the bend of the lapel from stretching during wear, an edge is laid under the lapel parallel to the bend. In products with a fastener to the top, the edge behind the lapel fold is not laid

Edges can be adhesive and non-adhesive. Linen, semi-linen or a strip of cotton fabric with a width of 10-20 mm is used as a non-adhesive edge. Before laying the edge, the cut of the side gasket is cut, depending on the type of edge, the design of the product (with cut-off or one-piece selections) and the methods of turning the side.

When using the adhesive edge, it is laid in the sides and lapels for cuts of the side gasket by 5-6 mm. The edge of the non-adhesive edge overlaps the cut of the side gasket by 2-3 mm. In products with duplicated shelves, the side gasket is not cut and the edge is not laid.

The sides are turned along the edge, next to the edge or stepping back from the edge to the width of the edge, depending on the type of fastener and the subsequent processing of the edge of the side.

In view of the foregoing, calculations are made in different ways for cutting the cut of the side gasket along the neck, lapel, side and bottom.

When laying a non-adhesive edge, apply various ways thread attachment. In products made of thin fabrics, the sides are turned along the edge, and its inner edge is fixed on a special blind stitch machine.

When turning the sides near the edge, both its edges are fixed: on a special blind stitch machine or in a combined way- the outer edge is hemmed with hemming hand stitches, and the inner edge on a special machine with a blind stitch.

Before laying the edge, it is decatered. The edge is basted with a line in the middle on a special machine or with manual straight stitches 15-20 mm long with the fastening of the fit with loop-like stitches. On the right shelf, the edge is swept from top to bottom, and on the left - from bottom to top. When laying the edge in products with a fastener to the lapel, the edge of the bead is conditionally divided into seven sections, and in products with a fastener to the top, six.

On the 1st section (along the cut of the neckline from the bend of the lapel to the beginning of the ledge), the edge is laid with tension to protect the neckline from stretching.

On the 2nd section (along the cut of the ledge of the lapel on one side and the other at an equal distance from the corner of the lapel), the edge is placed with the same tension to maintain the shape of the lapel obtained during trimming with a fit of 1 mm per 100 mm of length.

In the 3rd section (along the cut of the lapel), the main fabric is planted on the edge, and by the middle of the section, the fit is increased, and by the end it is reduced to nothing. The size of the fit depends on the shape of the bulge of the chest, the shape of the lapel and the type of fabric. The size of the landing is determined by bending the edge of the side along the half-skid line.

On the 4th section (from the end of the 3rd, 30-40 mm long above the first loop along the edge of the bead), the edge is laid without tension to ensure a free kink of the lapel.

On the 5th section (between the loops), the edge is basted with the landing of the main fabric between each pair of loops.

On the 6th section (along the cut of the side), the edge is laid, planting a shelf by 2-3 mm.

On the 7th section (along the bottom of the product), the edge is laid, planting a shelf by 2-3 mm. All of these must be learned by students. In the future, when they gain skills in work and after carrying out the correct wet-heat treatment of the shelves, the edge can be laid with uniform tension or with a fit in areas depending on the design.

Then check the correctness of the tacking of the edge. To do this, the shelf is placed on the table with the board facing the worker. The edge of the board is bent towards the shelf along the half-skid line. From the lower end of the inflection line of the lapel to the bottom of the shelf, the cut of the bead should be parallel to the line of the half-skid, and the parts of the cut of the bottom at the level of its inflection should coincide. Then check the fit on the edge at the top of the bead (chest area). To do this, the palm of the left hand is brought under the bulge of the chest of the shelf, the cut of the lapel should evenly go around the bulge of the chest. According to the degree of wrapping and the location of the cut of the lapel, the correct location of the edge in the corresponding areas is judged.

The edge is laid, stepping back from the inflection line of the lapel towards the shelf by 5-10 mm. The upper end of the edge is released 20-30 mm beyond the neck line and left free until the neck is finished. The lower end of the edge should not reach the first loop by 30-40 mm. The edge is swept with the landing of the shelf by 4-5 mm, increasing it towards the center and gradually reducing it to nothing towards the ends of the section. On the left shelf, the edge behind the fold of the lapel is laid according to the same rules, but from the bottom up. The edge behind the fold of the lapel can be laid without basting with one line in the middle on a special blind stitch machine.

Before hemming the edges, it is necessary to check the sides for length. For this, right and left shelf folded side gasket inside. The check is carried out on weight, holding the shelves at the ends of the half-skid line. The right shelf should be 5-7 mm longer than the left. The fastening of the edges of the edge is carried out as described above. Then the edge along the board is ironed. The product is placed on the table with the side cut to the working one, with the side gasket up. First, a cut of the side is steamed through a wet iron, then the lapels, sides and bottom of the product are straightened in the steamed state. Ironing is carried out until it is completely dry and the desired shape is fixed.

Before laying the adhesive edge, the cut of the side gasket is cut: along the neck by 12-15 mm, at the lapel 10-11 mm, at the side 12-13 mm, at the bottom of the product 5 mm above the bottom hem line.

The adhesive edge is laid in accordance with the requirements relating to laying the non-adhesive edge. When laying an edge with a one-sided adhesive coating, it is positioned by aligning the middle with the cut of the side gasket. It is more expedient to connect the edge with the product on the press, for which the edge is first fixed with an iron for 10 s in each section, and then steamed and pressed. In the absence of a press, the edge is fixed with an iron, first without moistening, and then with steaming for 30-40 seconds (the time required for a strong attachment of the edge).

In products with one-piece ribs, the edge is laid in accordance with the requirements specified when laying the edge in products with cut-off ribs. The edge is fixed, not reaching 1 mm to the inflection line of the one-piece selection. To seal the edge and create additional thickness, it is recommended that the cut of the side gasket be passed over the line of the edge of the side towards the edge by 10 mm. Laying the adhesive edge is done with tension.

With cut pile:

20 m - with a width of up to 100 cm;

10 m - with a width of more than 100 cm.

The conditional length of a piece of pure woolen and half-woolen fabric is assumed to be 30 m in accordance with GOST 358-82.

For silk and semi-silk fabrics, the conditional length of a piece is determined in accordance with GOST 187-85. For fabrics of the first and second groups:

40 m - with a width of up to 100 cm inclusive;

35 m - with a width of 101-130 cm;

30 m - with a width of more than 130 cm.

For fabrics of the third and fourth groups:

25 m - with a width of up to 130 cm inclusive;

20 m - with a width of more than 130 cm.

In the process of finishing the fabric, the dimensions of the fabric change. As a result, the number of threads per unit length and width of the fabric changes.

Gray fabric density (nit/dm):

Processing of warp and weft threads. The yarn yield can be taken from GOST for the fabric, according to the data of the enterprise where this fabric is produced, according to the calculation data when designing the fabric, or determined from the fabric sample.

The working out of the warp of openwork, terry and pile fabrics is determined as follows: if aow = 300%, then to produce 1 m of fabric, the length of the openwork or pile thread of the warp is 3 m, if aow = 500%, then 5 m.

For fabrics of complex structure, in the formation of which several systems of warp and weft threads are involved, when determining the filling width of the fabric Wb, the average loss (%) is used:

where ау1, ау2, ..., аух – duck work of the first, second, ..., x-th system, respectively.

Reed threading width (see):

If the structure of the fabric involves several systems of warp threads of different types of raw materials used and linear density, as well as having different processing, then the warp length of each system of threads necessary to produce one piece of gray fabric should be determined.

In this case, the length of the warp threads of openwork, pile and terry fabrics is determined by the formula (m):

where aov is the nap base wear, %.

3. Calculation of the number of threads in the warp

3. 1. Edge characteristics

The type of edges depends on the type of loom (Table 2) and its width on both sides of the fabric should be the same. On shuttle looms, the density of edge threads is 1.5–2 times greater than the density of the fabric on the base of the background, and the width of the edges of fabrics produced on AT machines is taken equal to 0.5–1.5% of the width of the gray fabric.

The edges of the fabrics on the machine type STB (embedded edges) are formed by edge-forming devices that bring the ends of the cut weft threads into the next shed, due to this, the weft density of the fabric in the edges increases by 2 times compared to the fabric density of the background weft. This causes it to harden. The edge density along the warp does not increase, and in some cases decreases compared to the background density. The width of the edge is determined by the design of the edge-forming device and can be equal to 2.6 - 3.5 cm, i.e. from 1.3 to 1.75 cm on each side.

The formation of the edge on machines of the ATPR type can be carried out in two ways:

With the help of stitching thread;

With the help of an edge-forming device (according to the STB type - a mortgage edge).

table 2

Edge characteristics

The stitching method does not provide a strong fastening of the edge of the fabric, so the density of the edge threads is 1.5–2 more than the density of the warp in the background. The width of the edges is 1-1.5 cm. The resulting fringe of weft threads with a length of 0.3-1 cm on each side limits the possibility of using these fabrics.

On machines of the ATPR type, the edge threads do not differ from the background threads in terms of linear density and type of raw material. In this case, the edge threads are considered background threads. If the edge of the fabric differs in the type of yarn from the background threads, then the edge threads are not transferred to the background and are taken into account separately in further calculations.

3. 2. Number of warp threads for shuttle looms

If Rof = Rk, then:

where nkp is the number of twisted edge threads or threads of a different, compared to the background, fibrous composition; n is the ratio of the number of edge threads that penetrate into the reed tooth to the number of background threads that penetrate into the reed tooth.

3. 3. The number of warp threads for looms such as STB and ATPR

Hem width in gray fabric:

When performing further calculations, it should be taken into account that the edge consists of threads with a linear density equal to the linear density of the background threads, as well as twisted threads, therefore:

where n¢k is the number of edge threads, in which Т¢cr = Тf; ncr is the number of twisted edge threads.

The number of edge threads in each edge should be a multiple of the number of edge threads that make their way into the reed tooth and the repeat of the weave of the edge over the warp. The number of reed teeth for the edge must be even.

Number of background threads:

The number of background threads must be a multiple of the number of threads weaving into the background reed tooth and the background weave pattern.

Total number of warp threads:

no = nf + nk. (16)

For warp fabrics different kind(color, linear density, twist, etc.) it is necessary to determine the number of threads of each type. To do this, according to the rapport of a color or other pattern, the number of threads in the color rapport is determined by the warp:

where Rtsoi is the number of threads of the i -th color or type.

The number of rapports in the width of the fabric:

The total number of warp threads for all colors or types is determined as the sum of:

The edging threads are added to the threads of the type or color that is selected for the edges. If several systems of main threads are involved in the structure of the fabric, then the number of main threads of each system is determined by the ratio between them.

When developing fabrics with a color pattern on machines of the STB type, special attention should be paid to the rapport of color over the warp with the rational use of the width of the threading of the fabric along the reed. It is necessary to calculate Rso in such a way that it fits an integer number of times in the maximum width of the reed threading.

4. Calculation of the base

After determining the number of warp threads, it is necessary to choose a warping method and make a calculation.

For batch warping, the number of threads on the warping roll is calculated based on the volume of the selected warping machine creel. First, the possible number of rollers (pieces) is determined:

Upon receipt of a fractional number, the threads are distributed over the rollers.

For the tape warping method, the number of threads in the tape and the number of tapes (pieces) are calculated:

where nl is the number of tapes, which is taken as the nearest larger number.

With a multi-color basis, each tape should have an integer number of repetitions of rapports of a color or type of thread.

In fabrics of complex structure, which require several systems of warp threads wound on separate piles, warping is calculated separately for each warp.

In the technical calculation of the fabric, a dressing pattern of the weave of the fabric should be given, which contains:

1) weave pattern indicating the rapport on the warp Ro and on the weft Ry for the background and edges;

2) tapping the main threads into the reed;

3) threading the warp threads into shafts, the number of shafts for the background and edges;

4) cardboard;

5) a schematic representation of the longitudinal and transverse sections of the tissue.

An example of a filling pattern is shown in fig. one.

The total weft repeat in the dressing pattern should be the smallest multiple of the weft repeat of the background Ruf and edges Rcr. If the fabric will be produced on loom with an eccentric shedding mechanism, the profiles of the eccentrics necessary for tissue production are given.

6. Calculation of filling the fabric with fibrous material

Filling the fabric with fibrous material characterizes the ratio of the area occupied by the yarn to the total area of ​​the fabric. Distinguish between linear and surface filling.

Linear filling of gray fabric in warp and weft %:

Where (do, y: mm).

Surface filling of fabric with fibrous material (%):

Table 3

Density (d) and coefficient (C) for threads and yarns of various types

7. Reed calculation

The reed serves to regulate the placement of the warp threads along the width of the fabric, create the necessary density of the fabric along the warp, and to beat the weft threads to the edge of the fabric.

To calculate the reed, they are specified by the number of threads entering the reed tooth in the background (zf) and edges (zk), and the number of threads entering the reed tooth must be a multiple of the total number of warp threads.

With the same number of threads entering the reed tooth in the background and edge (zf = zk = z), the number of reed teeth:

The reed number can also be determined from the density of the fabric on the warp, taking into account the weft work:

If the received reed number does not correspond to GOST, then its nearest value according to GOST is accepted (Table 4).

Table 4

The most commonly used reeds

The breakage of the warp threads during the production of fabric on a loom depends on many factors, one of which is the possibility of passing the knot of the warp threads between the teeth of the reed.

When turning products, the edge along the edges of the boards is laid in the same way as when sewing products from new fabrics.

The edge retains the shape given to the sides when processing the floor, and protects the edges of the sides from stretching when the product is worn.

When applying the edge, it is preliminarily swept by hand or machine to the side edges.

On fig. 77 shows the bottom of a jacket with a padded hem.

I - the edge along the side of the floor is laid manually; II - the edge along the board of the floor is glued; A - edge; B - places for loops.

The following describes the laying of the edge along the edges of the boards manually.

The edge to the right field begins to be basted from above the neck, and to the left - from the bottom towards the neck with through stitches.

During basting, the edge is laid parallel to the cuts of the floors with the following fit of the edges: along the neck between points a and b - by 1 mm, (Fig. 77, I); along the protrusion of the lapel between points b and c - by 1-2 mm; from the top of the lapel from point c to point d - by 1-2 mm; from point g to the end of the lapel of point e - by 3-5 mm; from point d to point e - by 3-4 mm; along the bottom of the floor at a distance of 20 cm between points e and g - 2-3 mm.

Along the fold of the lapel in the segment 3-4, the floor is planted 2-3 mm. The edge in this area is placed 15-20 mm from the lapel fold line towards the armhole. The length of the edge segment should be equal to 2/3 of the length of the lapel fold.

The outer edge of the edge is placed at the following distance from the cuts of the floor: in the side - 4-5 mm from the edge, in the neck - 10-12 mm, and at the bottom - 2-3 mm above the bottom hem line.

Basting the edges is done with stitches 10-15 mm long.

For stability, the edge at the corners is swept with two or three stitches.

After basting the edges to the sides, the right and left floors of the sides are checked for length, which should be the same for both floors.

The outer edge of the hem is sewn to the base material of the top with hand stitches. Stitch frequency - 3-4 per 1 cm.

The inner edge of the hem is sewn to the lining on a blind stitch machine or by hand.

The edge along the fold of the lapel is sewn to the lining on both sides on a blind stitch machine or manually.

When turning products from thin fabrics, the edge can be laid 3-4 mm from the cut of the bead so that the line of the turned seam of the bead passes along the edge of the edge. In this case, the edge must be thin, otherwise the edges of the sides will be thickened, which will reduce the quality of the processing of the side edges.

After tagging and sewing on the edge, the landing of the edges of the floor on the edge is moistened and tightly sutured until the fabric has completely shrinked.

Currently, the clothing industry is using a new, more productive method of laying edges along the sides of the product.

This new method may well be used when turning different kind garments. For this, a special edging fabric (band) with a one-sided adhesive coating is used, its width for coats is 12 mm, and for suits - 10 mm. The braid is applied to the edge of the bead with the adhesive surface down, at a distance of 4-5 mm from the cut of the top, and pressed in with an iron.

When gluing the edge, one half (in width) should lie on the fabric of the top of the floor, and the other half on the side gasket. The tension of the adhesive edge in different parts of the bead should be the same as when laying it manually, as described above.

You can also glue the adhesive edge on a machine, where a small electric iron is put on instead of a foot.

A stronger edge attachment and an increase in labor productivity is achieved by using a press instead of an iron.

You can firmly lay the edge with an iron, but for this you need to significantly increase the pressure and hold the iron longer on the edge.

On fig. 77, II shows the method of laying the edge along the sides with glue.

When turning over women's clothing and clothes for girls, sometimes it is required to lay an edge along the waist according to the style. In these cases, the adhesive method can also be successfully applied.

The edge is applied with tension along the waist and glued with an iron. The ends of the edge are attached by hand to the bead gasket.