Surely everyone has stale bedding: a blanket, a blanket or, for example, a bedspread, but you don’t know what to do with it and where to apply it? Or maybe you have a favorite similar thing that warms you up on rainy days or frosts, and you would like to somehow improve it and complement it with some beautiful and amazing details or embroidery?

We will talk about how to beautifully and quickly process the edges of the product, and also share how to transform the bedspread more colorfully.

Corner edge processing

This method of filing the corner is universal: it is simple, concise, and most importantly, beautiful. Thus, you can hem any rectangular or square products (curtains, napkins, tablecloths, bedspreads, etc.).

1. The first thing we do is align all the edges so that each cut is even;
2. We bend 1.5 centimeters on all four sides (to make things easier, you can use crayon for fabric);
3. We place the wrong side on top, and the front side on the bottom, because we will bend all the seams inside out;
4. For convenience, so that everything is fixed evenly, we iron the folds;
5. Next, we choose the thickness of the decorative edge. Since we took a bedspread as an example, we bend the edge inside out at a distance of about 5-6 cm (if you are sewing a napkin, you can take 2-3 cm, if the curtain is 10 centimeters).
6. We turn the cover over with the front side - out, take a ruler and mark our 5-6 cm on all four sides with a special tailor's chalk, in other words, we make even marks;
7. Having folded the fabric inward according to these standards, we iron it again;
8. We unfold the folds (except for the first 1.5 cm, they remain bent), we see our ironed lines, we turn the fabric over to the other side. Now we see a corner bent back, we take it and put it on another corner and we get an acute angle;
9. Now we need to bring out a flat corner in order to sew it up. To do this, you need to combine two lines (5 cm + 5 cm) with each other evenly and stab with a pin or needle so that the lines fall exactly into each other (the edges should also overlap each other exactly);
10. We take a ruler - a protractor and set aside 45 degrees at the junction where the fold ends (that is, 10 cm from the beginning of the edge), cut off the triangular end. We get a right angle;
11. We remove the pin and turn the fabric over “on the face”. It turns out a certain cut off corner, and so we do with all four corners;
12. We turn each corner face inward and mark 1.5 cm from the cut corner, we will scribble along this line;
13. When the corners are already cut off on all four sides, we simply need to lay a line along the marked lines (so that nothing unfolds in the process, make bartacks). It turns out a kind of "bath" of fabric.
14. Before bending everything on the front side, we lay out the seam of the sewn corner in different directions and iron it out, that is, the seam should not fall on some side, it should “fall apart” on different sides;
15. If the seam is too large and bothers you, then you can pre-cut it by 0.5 cm. After the work done, the corners turn out to be sharp;
16. We evenly iron our corners from above so that nothing sticks out anywhere;
17. We chop off the pins along the perimeter of the fabric and lay a straight line for 1-2 mm, thus sewing our edges.
18. That's all! At the end, we simply iron our finished product again.

Finishing the edge (border) with a hook

The border looks gorgeous, and knitting it is not difficult even for beginner knitters; for starters, you can master a simple border, consisting of one row.

1. First, we knit a preparatory row with single crochets;
2. We tie the last loop in the last column in a different color, the way you will knit the border;
3. At the beginning of the row we knit three air loops;
4. In the first of the three loops we knit a half-column with a crochet, for this we wind the hook into the first loop and pull out the thread. There are three loops on the hook, we knit them all together. This is how our first element turned out;
5. Turn over knitting, skip two following loops on the canvas and in the third loop we knit a connecting one;
6. We repeat everything from the beginning, only this time everything will be on the front side.

In the end last time tie the connecting loop to the last column, to the last loop. Close knitting, and that's it.

Corner processing is, in a sense, a real art that you need to learn to master in order to create beautiful and well-made products. This lesson may well develop into a hobby, and now you yourself come up with individual, uncomplicated embroidery.

TOTAL

Today we will teach you how to fold a blanket with your own hands. In our article you will clearly see how to do it easily and correctly. In the example, we are edging a patchwork quilt. In fact, you can process the edges of any blanket this way. Very often, the edges of the blanket fray during operation, they can also be refreshed. And your favorite blanket will serve you more.

We hope that this master class will be useful to you. To get started, you need to trim the edges of the new blanket, align its corners. If this is an old blanket, then cut off the frayed edges and align them.

How to wrap a blanket

From the fabric you have chosen for the edging, cut strips 10 cm wide. The length of the sewn strips should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the blanket.

Fold the ribbon in half (wrong side inside) and iron.

It will be convenient for you if you wrap the tape around a piece of cardboard.

Never start from a corner. Leave a small "tail" of their tape at the beginning of work.

Use sewing pins to pin the ribbon to front side blankets. Step back from the edge about 1 cm. Sew until you reach the corner.

When you reach the corner, stop sewing 0.5 cm from the corner. The needle must be in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and turn the work 45 degrees. See photo.

We sew to the end.

Bend the edging so that an angle of 90 degrees is formed

Excess fabric forms an angle of 45 degrees.

We combine the sides of the edging with the edges of the blanket

Sew the ribbon to the next corner.

The corner should look like this.

We continue to sew. When you have sewn all the corners and fit the joint, the ends of the tape need to be tucked in. If the tape is too long, the ends must be cut off.

We sew the tape to the end.

We turn off the sewn tape.

The corner should look like this.

We wrap the tape and sew it with a hidden seam by hand.

Corner processing from the inside.

That's all wisdom!

We hope that this patchwork tutorial will be useful to you.
Author Sandy wishes you inspiration!

While I was writing material according to the schemes, I thought: why exactly clear geometric, ornamental forms have developed in the patchwork mosaic technique. Not only because they are easier to sew on. Why are things sewn on geometric patterns, are perceived more organically than unstructured compositions? But pay attention to the world around us - to the cobwebs, honeycombs, crystals of snow or salt, snail shells and annual rings on a tree cut. Surprisingly, the honeycombs, the atom, and the “Well” scheme are similar and unified in structure. It has now been proven that such a natural structure better accumulates the energy necessary for the existence of all living things. Whereas chaos destroys this energy. And a person subconsciously strives for harmony, for structure. And from the point of view of bioenergetics, sleeping under a blanket of ornaments is very healthy, especially if this blanket is sewn with great love and pleasure.

When you have accumulated a sufficient number of identical squares made according to the patterns above (or you sew them on purpose), you can assemble them into a blanket. Such a blanket is traditionally called a "Sampler". As a rule, each craftswoman has a special, “own” perception of color and love for certain fabrics. Therefore, plots made "with one hand" even in different time, often very organically combined with each other in a large product.

The traditional Sampler quilt consists of three layers: a patchwork top, a lining and a padding.

For a patchwork top, it is extremely important to choose the background that unites all the elements and colors as accurately as possible (sometimes it is called a binding). The background should not stand out, “not tear” from the composition, but set off and collect the color and shape of your square inserts.

The finished squares are first stitched together, connecting with short vertical segments of the background. Then the resulting stripes are sewn with the horizontal stripes of the background into a single rectangular canvas. From the background fabric, as a rule, a border is made (but it can also be made from a contrasting fabric), which is attached around the perimeter.

The lining can be made from the same or any other fabric of your choice. Sometimes they make a double-sided blanket, and then the lining is also sewn from patchwork geometric squares, collected in blocks on the background. In this version, you can “play” with color and make, for example, a mirror image of the front top: light blocks on a dark background, dark ones on a light one. If the fabrics are very thin, then a piece of fabric (not necessarily new) is inserted between the base and the lining and all three pieces of fabric are quilted manually or by machine. You can sew a braid on the seams on top or make an additional appliqué and quilt the blanket along with it. In order for the quilt to look good and look neat, it is very important to follow the direction of the pattern of the background fabric, especially if the pattern is a square or polka dot.

To give the blanket volume, it is first stitched along the contour (grabbing all three layers of the product), and then an incision is made on the wrong side of the lining and, gently straightening, filler material (non-woven, synthetic winterizer) is placed. The incision is then sewn together by hand. If applicable volumetric technique, the lining must be of durable fabric.

The assembly of large, bulky products presents certain difficulties. AT one-room apartment sewing a two-meter-sized blanket is not easy - there is nowhere to turn around. Then the blanket is divided into blocks and sewn in parts. The seams for the fortress are stitched with a stitch "in the seam", and then on top - with a "zigzag" end-to-end.

Machine stitch "zigzag" butt

But first, each block is quilted separately, together with a synthetic winterizer and a lining, leaving large allowances for the seams of all three components (lining, synthetic winterizer, patchwork top). Moreover, the lining and synthetic winterizer should be larger in size than the patchwork top. Then proceed to assemble the blanket.

The patchwork top is laid out on the floor face down, the edges are attached with tape to the floor so that the canvas does not fidget. First, the patchwork top is sewn on the blocks, then the synthetic winterizer is carefully straightened. So that unnecessary thickenings do not form on the gasket, the pieces of the synthetic winterizer are not sewn together, but placed with edges one on top of the other and the edges at the seam are split by hand. After the two upper parts are neatly connected, the lining is sewn with a blind seam.

Such an assembly makes it possible to apply a beautiful and neat stitch (it is more convenient to do it on blocks than on a large canvas) and greatly speeds up your work.

It is customary to decorate patchwork products with various details that not only complement and diversify the compositions, but also give them a decorative effect. Sewn from many patches, the products have a large number of seams that are closed with a lining. In order for a patchwork quilt to be practical, not just purely decorative, and to serve future generations, it must be quilted. A synonym for the Russian word "stitch" is the English "kilting". Initially, the word "kilt" meant a blanket, primarily an American one, made from patchwork and quilted with a warm lining. Later, all products made in this technique began to be called a kilt.

Stitch, or kilting, is an integral part of the patchwork mosaic technique. The stitch can be regular or curly, but it must have a clear dimension: there are five frequent stitches per 1 cm of fabric. hand seam"forward needle". The task of the stitch is to firmly connect the three layers of the quilt - the patchwork top, the insulating lining and the lining. Classically, the “stitch” is performed with cotton threads in the color of the fabric and on the hands. To do this, use short, strong and thin needles and, of course, a thimble.

From the side, work on a stitch, for example, a patchwork quilt, seems very complicated and painstaking. But as you work, when the composition you have conceived begins to “come to life” under your hands, the stitch turns from tedious work into pleasure. Stitching each pattern, you can get figures of different textures, and often the patchwork thing itself is transformed and acquires, as it were, an additional dimension: some details are brought to the fore, others are shaded, become the background. The stitch on empty spaces in the ornament or along the border also looks very nice - here you can make any pattern and even make an inscription with good wishes. Often, if an outstanding thing has turned out, the author signs it, embroidering his name on the border or on one of the ornaments.

There are also national stitches that create cobweb openwork: “Amishkilting”, the Japanese technique of kilting “Sashiko” - a geometric ornament is applied to a plain fabric (blue, white, red), which is done with contrasting threads (white threads on a blue background). Very intricate and elegantly refined sewing.

Undoubtedly, hand stitch looks much prettier and, how to say, more authentic than the machine. But it requires peace in the soul, peace, and most importantly - time. Who has it now! Therefore, many craftswomen prefer to quilt their products on sewing machine- it saves time.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the future pattern on the product. Keep in mind that the more the patchwork is filled with stitches, the denser the final fabric will be (and stronger and more durable!).

Many things can be quilted immediately on a typewriter, for example, "stitch in the seam", and then a preliminary pattern is not needed. But it is still better to draw complex geometric patterns first so that they are not distorted during stitching. The drawing is done on the front side of the patchwork thing with a remnant, colored chalk or pencil according to a template or by hand. You can transfer the drawing to tracing paper and, having swept it to the canvas, draw a line through it. After work, slightly moisten the tracing paper - then it will be easier to remove it from the seams. Drawing on tracing paper will be more accurate, and the product will look neater, since it will not be necessary to remove traces of a marker or pencil from the fabric.

Here are a few general rules stitches.

When stitching on a typewriter, select the color of the upper thread so that it either stands out at work, or, conversely, matches the color of the product. The bobbin thread should be a number thicker than the top thread and match the color of the lining.

For machine stitching, it is better to pin the warp, lining and lining than to thread it. And if you use threads, then take bright and contrasting ones, so that later it will be easier to remove them. Remember that the threads are more difficult to pull out of a dense stitch, and the look of the product in this case may turn out to be sloppy.

Blanket stitching pattern

Start quilting any product from the middle to the edges. First make all the most general and long lines and only then quilt the details.

Arrange your workspace so that your blanket does not move or warp, otherwise the layers may move, and then the whole drawing will be distorted. You can substitute a chair so that a blanket falls gently on it, in folds. It is better to roll the blanket into a roll or fold and secure with special clips. If you are quilting by hand, do it on the floor or on a large table.

Be sure to secure each line of stitches, both the beginning and the end, by sewing back a few stitches. After you have quilted the entire line, thread the tail of the thread through a regular needle and pull it into the center of the quilted product to hide it.

During operation, do not pull the product so that the line does not stretch. Hold the fabric on both sides with your hands, smoothing the fabric near the foot.

As often as possible, check for wrinkles in the lining, and if they appear, straighten them carefully, especially before passing the machine needle. If you nevertheless accidentally quilted a fold, then, sadly, you will have to rip the seam and stitch it again.

A special “chic” is given to the stitch by the continuity of the stitch throughout the entire product, even if it is a double blanket.

Consider the most simple views stitches.

Most Popular contour stitch. This stitch is done on a typewriter at a distance of 0.75 cm from the main seam on both sides of it. Approximately this is the size of half of the machine foot, and, having adapted, you can additionally not mark the fabric for this type of stitch. It, as it were, outlines the seam on both sides and makes the fragments less convex than with the stitch “in the seam”.

In-seam stitch runs along the seam lines. When you ironed the seams, the allowances were laid out to one side of the seam. This stitch is done on the side where there is no seam allowance, and you do not need to sew four layers of fabric. It is done both on a typewriter and by hand. After sewing with a stitch "in the seam", small fragments become more convex.

Large pieces of fabric can be quilted using various geometric patterns connected in lattices of diamonds or squares. Curly lines can be used instead of straight lines. For example, dotted stitch done on a machine with a darning foot. This technique is suitable for processing various curly and abstract drawings.

Curly stitch

It is important that the stitch pattern is beautiful. To do this, the seams should not overlap, merge, and the distances between them, if possible, should be equal. The fabric must be moved very smoothly so that the stitch is even.

Correct (left) and incorrect (right) curly stitch in a spiral

When hand stitching, the following seams are used: a “hand stitch” seam, a cross-shaped “goat” seam, a buttonhole seam, and rarely a tambour seam.

The seam "hand stitch"- a kind of seam "back needle", it gives a neat and durable line, similar to a machine.

"Goat" thick non-flowing fabrics are sheathed, and it is also used to outline applications.

Seam "goat"

Buttonhole stitch

Buttonhole stitch overcast buttonholes, the edges of blankets and appliqués.

chain stitch

Beautiful chain stitch used as a decorative addition. They can also sheathe applications or make an independent drawing.

First of all, the neatness of your product will be given by a beautifully selected and high-quality sewn edge - border. Border is an important element of patchwork technique, and from its appearance and the quality of performance often depends on the overall impression of the whole work. An artistically selected border will emphasize a successful color scheme and set off patchwork pattern on the product. If you are creating wall panel, then already at the initial stage of the sketch you should imagine what kind of border - the “frame” for your work - you will make. A beautiful border can enhance the impression of the work, while a gaudy or out of style and color can ruin it completely.

The border is overlapping, with corner squares and with beveled corners.

Here are a few useful tips.

So that the bordered product does not warp or swell, after the border is sewn onto it, all measurements of the future border are made not at the edges patchwork, but through its middle. This is done because, due to the large number of seams and stitches, the product can change dimensions (skew).

The border should always be cut along the shared or transverse thread so that it does not stretch further.

If the length of the fabric is not enough for the border, then it is extended. In this case, the border is sewn only at an angle of 45 degrees. So the seam will be less noticeable.

Border stitching

You can sew a border from several strips of fabric of different sizes. It is desirable that the strips taper towards the center, which gives the effect of "gathering" the composition.

You can make an asymmetrical border, for example different color(from different sides) and different widths.

You can insert sew-in strips, squares, triangles, letters and other shapes into the main strip of the border. But if you have chosen a patterned border, then it should not interfere with the main product.

Since the border is a kind of logical continuation of the work, you can use some pieces from the main canvas in it. But this must be done very carefully so as not to overdo it: after all, the main function of the border is a bounding and collecting frame for the product.

Thin products can be edged with a strip of fabric. The strip is cut along the share and sewn along the edge of the product, seam to seam - front to front. Angles of 45 degrees are sewn on the hands.

The border may be a continuation of the lining wrapped over the patchwork top. To do this, cut out the lining wider than the top. For thin and multilayer products, there are different ways sewing on lining as edging.

The layers are initially cut out as follows: the padding (batting, interlining) is 1 cm larger on each side than the patchwork top, and the lining is 3 cm larger.

Corner processing "envelope"

The quilted blanket is sewn around the entire perimeter, retreating from the edge of 6 mm. Then cut the edges of the stuffing by 5 mm, and the lining fabric by 2.5 cm, counting from the cut of the stuffing.

The corners are treated with an "envelope". On the lining, mark the corner and cut it off, stepping back from the stuffing 1 cm (per seam). This 1 cm is folded over to a patchwork top, and the cut of the lining is also folded over by 1 cm and stabbed so that it coincides with the edge of the stuffing.

Finally, the lining is folded over the patchwork top so that the fold overlaps the machine stitch, and sewn by hand, preferably to the stitches. The resulting corner is also sewn with a hidden seam.

In this case, the lining must be cut wider than the product by the width of the border plus a seam allowance. For example, if the border finished product is 2 cm, then for its manufacture you will need 4 cm of fabric and 5 mm for an allowance on each side.

On the lining, mark the sewing line of the border, then fold in half any of the corners with the front side inward and iron the fold. The fold angle is wrapped “on itself”, bending it at the point of intersection with the border sewing line, ironing the angle, turning it back, sewing along the fold line and cut it off. The seam is smoothed on both sides and the excess fabric is cut off.

The remaining corners of the lining are also prepared, then it is turned right side out. A patchwork top is inserted into the formed “frame”, the edges of the border are tucked in by 5 mm, basted and stitched.

Products sewn using this technique will give your home coziness and will surely please the household (and cats will simply be fascinated by soft, voluminous pillows).

Each ottoman consists of a square top (chintz, preferably in a small pattern, small checks and polka dots are especially suitable), a dense colored lining (satin, calico, dense chintz) and light stuffing material between them (sandwich trimmings, technical cotton wool).

The top of the ottoman should be 3-4 cm larger than the lining (the larger the top, the more voluminous the pillow will be), plus 1 cm of seam allowance on each side. The size of the lining is equal to the size of the finished "ottoman" plus 1 cm of seam allowance on four sides.

The peculiarity of this technique is that the base (lining) of the ottoman should be flat, and the top should be voluminous.

For a light voluminous blanket, the required number of blanks are sewn from ottomans, and then they are manually joined with a blind seam.

Start sewing with lining.

1. Each square lining fabric folded in half.

2. An incision is made on the fold.

3. The front side of the lining is connected to the front side of the top and the corners are carefully aligned, chipping them off with pins.

4. Then, on each of the four sides, all the excess fabric of the top is laid in the central fold and the resulting square is carefully stitched. For strength, the edges of the allowance can be stitched with a zigzag.

5. Then, through the hole in the lining, turn the workpiece to the front side.

6. In the same way, the required number of ottomans is made and manually joined with a seam “over the edge”. Sew in stripes.

7. Each ottoman of the stitched blanket is stuffed through the incision with synthetic winterizer or other stuffed material. They are not stuffed very tightly so that the ottomans are light, carefully straightening the folds and lumps. Then the incisions on the lining are sutured, also by hand.

8. Now it remains to sew on a common lining (you can insert ruffles along the edge), quilt along the seams with a stitch along the contour - and the ottoman is ready.

Instead of ruffles, the blanket around the perimeter can be edged in one of the ways that are given in the "Edging" section.

Now that you have already become involved in the creation of a patchwork mosaic, and most importantly, your hands can easily cut, sweep and tuck fabric of any size and style, you can also sew kitchen hooks. Perhaps you have accumulated various stitched patterns that, after some effort, can decorate your kitchen. For a grip any will do a square or oval sample no larger than 20 x 20 cm made of cotton fabrics, made according to the schemes "Mill", "Square in a square", "Herringbone", "Well" and others. You can also come up with an independent composition, for example, with an application on some kitchen theme. This is what concerns the top of the product. But the grip has three layers: top, lining (thermal insulating layer) and lining.

For laying use batting, thick flannel, canvas - any infusible material (not synthetics!). The lining also requires a non-melting material, dense and dark, so that traces from hot pans do not spoil the “appearance” of your grip.

The grip is made as follows. The patchwork top is folded with the lining and padding connected (front to front). In the corner (if the grip is square), a loop of braid or material is baited, and this entire “sandwich” is sewn together, leaving 2 cm unsewn to turn the product on the front side. The slit is sewn up by hand with a hidden seam. It remains to quilt the product, and decorative braid can also be sewn onto the patchwork top.

An oval grip is made in the same way, only the loop is attached on top of the oval (but not on the side).

Another traditional item of Russian life is a heating pad for a teapot in the form of a chicken, a “woman” or a decorated cap. Here you can apply all your imagination and skill.

The principle of making a heating pad is the same in all cases. First you need to measure the kettle with a centimeter, so as not to be mistaken with the size. The heating pad should cover it tightly to keep warm. Then they make a sketch of the product and a pattern. Any heating pad consists of a patchwork top (plain or figured - as desired), an insulating layer of batting or synthetic winterizer and a dark fabric lining to make it less dirty. The lining is cut out taking into account the allowance for shrinkage during the stitch and the allowance for the edging of the lower edge of the heating pad.

For a patchwork top, it is better to choose fabrics of warm colors (yellow, red, brown, orange colors) corresponding to tea drinking.

For visuals, we have prepared a video.

For those who like to understand diagrams, photographs and drawings, under the video - a description and step by step photo Master Class.


Before proceeding with further work, it is necessary to measure the length and width of the blanket, align the sections of the blanket, while cutting off the excess padding polyester and lining.

The best way to process a quilt is considered to be edging the edge of a patchwork quilt with an oblique trim.

An oblique inlay is a flat strip of fabric of a given width, cut at an angle of 45 degrees to the shared thread of the fabric. The length of the strip is equal to the perimeter of the blanket. The width depends on the edging method.

For achievement required length, parts of the inlay are ground together with a seam 0.7 cm wide. The seams are also placed at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the strip itself.

For our blanket, you will need a trim 10 cm wide and a length equal to the perimeter of the blanket. After grinding the parts, the inlay should be ironed in half along the entire length.

Attaching an inlay:
Press the inlay, ironed in two additions, to the front side of the blanket, aligning the cuts of the inlay with the cuts of the blanket. You should not start stitching the inlay from the corner.

Break the line before reaching the corner of the blanket for the width of the seam.

Turn the blanket 90 degrees, remove the working surface of the blanket from under the legs and bend the inlay up (in a horizontal plane) forming an angle of 90 degrees with the blanket, as shown in the picture.

Aligning the fold of the inlay with the cut of the corner of the blanket, return it down (in a horizontal plane), thus forming a fold from the inlay in the corner of the blanket.

Lay a through line, starting from the very edge of the top, with a seam width of 10-12 mm, equalizing the cuts of the inlay with the cuts of the blanket. Sew to the next corner, and so on.

After stitching the inlay, straighten the corners and, aligning the width of the inlay on the front side, go around the cut of the seam allowance with it.

Sweep the inlay with straight or oblique running stitches.

In this case, the corners should be straight, and the diagonal fold should be located in the middle of the corner both from the front and from the inside of the product.

It remains only to stitch along the stitching seam of the inlay to secure it in this position with a machine stitch.

Beautiful finishing lines are obtained with monofilament.

If it is not possible to make an even seam, then it is better to hem the inlay manually - with hidden stitches with cotton threads in the color of the fabric.

The note should be removed.

Our blanket is ready!

And we already donated it.

Our master class is aimed at those who sew a blanket for the first time!

Were our quilt sewing workshops helpful?

What questions or confusions arose during the work?

If you follow fashion, and especially fashion trends in the field of interior design, you have already noticed that gradually the old trends are becoming relevant again.

The patchwork technique, which involves the creation of products from many textile scraps, is one example of needlework that has become popular again. And one of the reasons for such interest in patchwork is the ease of sewing almost any product for the home. These can be items of clothing, tablecloths and curtains, bags, toys, warm blankets for children and adults, and much more.

Because the patchwork technique has a long history, you will find many ways to sew such textiles. Moreover, having gained experience, you will be able to realize your interesting ideas, come up with new forms and ways of connecting elements.

But in order to learn this skill, you need to understand the simplest techniques and learn the maximum about the features of patchwork.

We offer you to learn how to sew a patchwork quilt correctly, and start with a master class on a patchwork quilt for beginners: it is very simple to make, although sewing takes a lot of time, but in return you will get a charming and comfortable textile element for the home.

Patchwork quilt, photo

How to make a patchwork quilt

The traditional process of creating a DIY patchwork quilt for beginners includes three main steps:

• search for suitable materials. To create a harmonious design, you will need a fabric of at least two colors. You can take patterned textiles, but in this case it is better to stick to a single theme (for example, decorate a blanket in a floral style or choose a fabric with a geometric print);
• sewing pattern sketch. It is important to decide how the blanket will look in order to properly cut the constituent elements;
• connection of fragments with the help of threads.

At the stage of choosing materials, you need to look for fabrics that you have at home, but have not been used for their intended purpose for a long time.

If you are sewing a blanket for an adult, purchasing new textiles can be quite expensive. It is not at all necessary to use a long solid fabric: you still have to cut it, so you can use a huge variety of small shreds of bright or pastel colors as a source.

Attention! If you find patches of different shapes, it doesn’t matter: they will be easy to put together to create a stylish blanket for the home.

Now let's get to the diagram. If this is your first time sewing a patchwork blanket, it is better to use ready-made templates. You should not choose too complex a technique: a product made of identical squares will look no worse than a blanket with many elegant patterns.

You need to start sewing small: sew several patches together to create a separate block. After creating a certain number of blocks, proceed to attach them to each other.

Do not forget that the top of the blanket must be sewn onto the lining. It is possible both to hand stitch the product, and on a sewing machine - with a straight line or using a special foot.

Advice: if desired, the elements of a patchwork quilt can not be sewn, but connected with knitted threads using special hooks.

The time spent on creating such a blanket directly depends on the required dimensions and parameters of the constituent elements. Therefore, do not make the fragments excessively small: if you want to create a more interesting design, take several fabric options in harmonious shades.

Master class for beginners

A cute and comfortable patchwork quilt can be made by hand even by those who have not been professionally sewing before. Let's find out how to make a baby quilt with a tutorial.

As the main material, it is better to take a pair of fabrics that are pleasant to the touch in combined shades. You will also need an elongated sheet of synthetic winterizer with which the blanket will be stuffed, and a lining (for example, coarse calico).

According to the quilt master class for beginners Baby blanket you should start by cutting about 50 textile squares 21 by 21 cm. If you plan to use fabrics of several shades or patterns, lay out all the blanks on a flat plane in order to properly design the future blanket.

After making sure that the design matches your idea, and all the fragments have even sides, you can start stitching.

To begin, sew the first strip of the blanket: to do this, sew squares from the very bottom row. Then proceed to the second and subsequent stripes. Only when all the strips are sewn together, you can connect them to each other.

Every time after sewing on a sewing machine, do not forget to smooth the formed part of the blanket with an iron. Then the workpiece will have the correct shape and will not distort the overall appearance of the product.

After the upper patchwork is ready, cut out the lining and filler, focusing on the general parameters of the product.

Take a look at the blanket from the side: on this moment it exfoliates, so the edges must be securely closed. To do this, use an inlay with a width that can provide masking of all edges of the product. The trim is sewn with the face to the lining, after which the tape is straightened out - and wrapped to fold the free edge inward. Finish this step with a stitch on the sewing machine.

The blanket is ready! It is ideal for a child, as it is soft, cozy and bright. If desired, the blankets can be supplemented with suitable color scheme bed set.

For those who are ready to create a more complex product, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with another master class. It involves a combination of rectangular and square fragments. It is advisable to use a breadboard mat to correctly calculate the parameters of each element.

Cut out a couple of long and a couple of short rectangles from the fabric. Take another fabric - and prepare a small square. The rectangles are stitched around it to form a large square piece.

Now you need to cut out four ribbons, which will be an additional "edging" for the square. Try to calculate their parameters correctly. If desired, such a blanket can be supplemented with a large number of small squares on the outer border.

All elements, as in the previous case, lay out on a plane to control the evenness of the product.

After stitching the components, it remains to fill the blanket with synthetic winterizer, add lining and decorate the edges.

Did you like the technology? Then watch another example of sewing a quilt master class for beginners on the video:

Varieties of patchwork

There are many ways to make a children's patchwork quilt for beginners according to the scheme.

Let's take a look at the most interesting options such works:

Element stitching techniques

Patchwork is famous for its unusual design, so it is extremely important to plan in advance how all the components will be placed relative to each other.

We have already noted that you have access to ready-made schemes, but new techniques implemented according to your own ideas are also appropriate.

The most simple options for sewing a patchwork quilt for beginners:

Any technique will be easier to implement if you cut out the constituent elements based on the patchwork quilt pattern for beginners. You can use one of the following examples:

Quilt edging

Any patchwork quilt, sewn by hand or by machine, from squares, triangles, polygons or free-form shapes, needs an edge treatment - edging. After connecting the inside, insulation and patchwork top of the product, their stitching was left to close the cut to give the quilt a finished look. To do this, prepare a piping (edging) and sew it.

How to finish the edge of a patchwork quilt? For edging we need:

1. Fabric for piping.
2. Scissors or cutter.
3. Cutting mat.

The color of the edging can be any - contrasting, matching the blanket or any other. The fabric for the piping can be bought when the whole blanket is already sewn: it is often difficult to decide on the color while the product is in the preparation stage.

In the photo below - a beautiful patchwork quilt with a finished edging:

How to edge a patchwork quilt? Consider step-by-step instructions for edging:

1. Calculate the perimeter of the blanket by measuring its sides and adding the lengths of the sides.
2. The edge should be longer than the perimeter - add 20-25 cm to the amount received.
3. The width of the edging is chosen at will, on average it is 6-8 cm, taking into account the hem at the seams. Cut the fabric into strips using a cutter or scissors, and connect them into a single ribbon at a 45 degree angle so that there is no excess fabric thickness. Steam off with an iron. Fold the piping right side out in half, iron it along the entire length - the piping is ready (you should get a long ribbon of fabric folded in half, 3-4 cm wide.
4. We apply the strip to the wrong side of the blanket, edge to edge, fold - to the center.

Attention: do not start sewing the piping from the corner, preferably from the middle.

5. You can pin the piping with pins for convenience. At the beginning of work, leave a ponytail at least 10 cm long not sewn on. When you reach the corner, bend the edging up to make a 45 degree angle. Bend the piping down so that the fold of the piping is even with the edge of the product. Secure with a pin.
6. Continue sewing on the edging to the next corner, stopping at a distance of about 20 cm before reaching the beginning.
7. We connect the edging into a single part: fold it, mark with soap or a pencil the place where the edging strip joins. Fasten it with pins and sew, cut off the excess. Again, fold the piping in half lengthwise and sew this segment on a typewriter. Thus, the edging was sewn on the wrong side.
8. Turn the blanket right side up and, folding the edge, pin the piping to the front side directly to the piping sewing line, slightly covering it. You can start from the corner. Sew on - it is better to use a decorative stitch, because. it will hide the flaws of an uneven line in novice beginners. Double stitch at the corners.

Almost any small baby blanket can be folded up and used as a statement envelope. Rectangular, square - it doesn’t matter: in the maternity hospital, the nurse will deftly roll up a bag from any blanket.

Important: such a blanket will warm the baby not only with warmth, but also with your care and love.

Despite its simplicity, the patchwork technique is considered a real art in the field of home design.

The success of patchwork is associated with the ability to create amazing products for the home with rich colors, unusual shapes and patterned incarnations.

Show your imagination - and please your loved ones with a new blanket, which will not only "pleasing to the eye", but also warm in cold times. With photos and videos of a quilt master class for beginners, you can quickly decide on the technique for such needlework.

Video

Watch another tutorial for beginners with another DIY sewing idea in a video tutorial about a patchwork quilt: