Author - Frosya Burlakova (a wonderful master, an example for me to follow, because she knows so many excellent seams that I never dreamed of, and most importantly, she knows how to use them!), From the forum club.season.ru/lofiversion/index.php/ t11215.html.

This is the name I came up with! If you don't like it, you can call it whatever you like.

Its application is multifaceted, interesting and very effective. I can say that I use this seam in almost every thing I sew.

Fabrics - any.

It is tiny in the face and rather large on the wrong side, loosely tightened stitches back to the needle. The main effect that can be obtained is a natural-looking fastening of a package of materials (of any thickness) taking into account the wrapping of layers (of any number of them). And this effect is very useful and necessary, which in a different way has to be achieved by sitting down, suturing, putting pieces of wood under allowances, etc. And in many cases, it is the beaded seam that gives an unsurpassed result.

Execution I sew in the face from right to left. I make a tiny (1-2 threads) stitch back on the face and a large (8-10-12 mm) stitch forward on the wrong side. I tighten it loosely so that the thickness through which I sew is not tightened in any way.

Approximately like this. The number of layers of fabric can be any.

I take the thread on the fabric inconspicuous (although this is not necessary) and thin.

At the same time, I DO NOT use the embroidery method, when the thread is pulled to the end, first inside out, and then there. Not! That's the whole point, that the needle is pulled up and down at one time and there it is. Because this is how we use the wonderful property of hand seams, which allows us to do all sorts of tricks here.

Trick number 1 IN THE WORLD :)

When sewing on the hands, the top layer of fabric is planted. Everyone knows that the machine plants the bottom layer, although there are all sorts of paws about which manufacturers say that they do not plant :). And when sewing on the hands, the opposite happens (if you do NOT sew using the embroidery method). This is how we hold the fabric in our fingers, it is not stretched straight, but slightly in an arc.

Moreover, the machine just plants the bottom layer, those. pick it up a bit. And on the hands, the upper layer does not gather, but, as it were, is slightly overtightened and correctly bends around the lower layer. Layers of fabric, in particular allowances, can thus be laid on top of each other very correctly and beautifully on all roundness of the figure. Virtually no wrinkles and no steps. Fastening them with a beaded seam.

===========================

Personally, I use this fastening very often.

Application #1.

The combination of a narrow bodice with a fluffy skirt.

As a lover of New Look style, I often sew dresses with fluffy skirts. 6 m on the bottom is not a question :).

Now imagine that you gathered around 2.5 m of a skirt around the waist to 58 cm of the waist of your bodice. They sewed a skirt to the bodice and ... Oh, what a wonderful thick sausage from the allowance at the waist, how it decorates and slims your tightened waist! :) the fabric protrudes onto the sausage, and slack forms above.

Sew? - will not help. The sausage will remain in place, and even the seam will go in waves, stretch in the stitching.

Smooth down, press down? - alas... The law of conservation of mass.

Suffered technology.

1. The bodice is lengthened by 1.5, maybe 2 cm. with an extension from the LT down, and also with a little additional freedom to bend around the allowance, somewhere around 1 cm in a circle. Under this extension, the sausage allowance will be neatly laid (a little lower, and not at the waist itself).

2. The skirt is sewn on. It is better not to overcast the seam, or simply process it with a thin oblique overcast. If you really want to use a machine, then overcast the skirt separately in a gathered form. But as a rule, this seam is closed with a doubler, those. becomes internal.

3. The seam is not ironed at first, as it will be laid with fingers in a beautiful position. In principle, out of habit, you can sweep the allowance up without tightening, just to hold on, just temporarily attach, throw the needle forward in the face (this is a must). Or just flatten the allowance with your fingers up.

4. And now go through the face with a beaded seam, sewing on the allowance. Somewhere 5-6 mm above the seam along the LT. You don’t need to pull anything, the main thing here is molding. You sort of lay layer after layer on the waist cylinder from the inside out: a densely gathered skirt allowance, bodice allowance, top of the bodice. We do not pull the top fabric from the seam, naturalness is an ally. - The feeling of a sculptor... And stitch the packet of fabric layers into correct position. In general, this happens almost by itself. Trick number 1 is the best assistant. You can rarely sew, 8-10 mm approx.

5. Well, now you can stroke it, although, in general, everything is already lying. Just fix what happened with your fingers.

If you iron from the inside, then iron it, if outside, then iron it. But this is, basically, for order, maybe. everything is shaped with a beaded seam.

Here is an example of such processing. This is a photo from life, just a family photo. Because the angles that turned out. Large first photo is the back, the second is the front.

The blue arrow shows where the lengthening of the bodice is, under which the allowance is hidden. - Do you see it? :) - It is sewn with a beaded seam up from the seam along the LT and does not stand out at all, because the layers of fabric are laid with fingers and fastened with threads. 60 rare stitches ... well, let 5 seconds per stitch be 5 minutes of work ... And it will never stand out :). Try to lay it like this in any other way. - And he is plump there, and even uneven: cream fabric - dense cotton, lilac - very dense cotton, almost jeans. And there are also seams, and reliefs. And this bodice is without corset tricks, without rigilin and without bones, the current doubler.

The red arrow shows that nothing spoils the waistline. No steps.

On a large front photo, I personally don’t see anything where there are beaded stitches :) But I know for sure that there is! She sewed, here.

I can say that I personally almost always sew all the allowances on the bodice with a beaded (it's a dotted, good name!) seam. For molding, you do not need so thick, but for finishing - this is with any density.

Application #2.

I'll have to turn to my modest creativity again :). We will talk about very practical things, specifically - about sewing velvet. Everyone knows what a problem this is. And therefore, I offer your kind attention ... this skirt.

1. Figured yoke with a corner at the back and front, satin lining. 2. Dense gathering under the yoke. 3. High stitched belt. Glueless, on a double stitched lining, with a satin lining. 4. The belt has a smell in front, the right and left halves overlap each other at the waist by about 8 cm.

You are all sewing people, so I think you immediately imagined a million problems arising. Some of them.

iron a very elastic satin on the edge at the top of the belt so that the gathers do not bubble in the seam of the coquette so that the upper allowance of the coquette does not stick out in the belt, and now we will count the layers in the seam where the smell is on the LT .... Mamma mia, there are 16 of them and 5 of them are velvet.

Are you hoping to iron this allowance? :) And so that it doesn’t bubble, doesn’t pull, doesn’t shine? :)

In total, here is a bright picture and a description of my work on the formation of this entire structure using hand seams. To be honest, it turned out even better than I expected. It is on capricious velvet that many problems that cannot be solved with an iron are solved. hand seam, and on velvet it is almost invisible (to the chagrin of Amantha :), because a thin silk thread sinks in the pile. Even more honestly, I can not imagine how to do it in another way.

And here are the technical pictures. The thickness of the belt in the smell.

Here is the wrong side, on which the stitches are visible, they are shortened, this is due to the large thickness during molding. You can't see them from your face.

And the mulberry on the next photo is the molding process itself. For the sample, I took a yellow thread.

Here you can see that when sewing, I lay the work on my finger, and I sew, which is why numerous layers of fabric are laid without deformation, as if on a cylinder, the lower layers are sewn on and do not bubble, and the belt takes on a rounded shape corresponding to the shape of the body. After all, I will wear it on a round waist, and not on a flat closet.

On a mannequin, this is generally very convenient to do. But my fingers are used to it, and I do it in the air, I can even slightly adjust this degree of rounding, more on the sides, smaller in front.

www.hnh.ru

The product decorated with beads looks original, but it takes a long time to sew beads and beads by hand, sewing can be accelerated using a sewing machine. For such purposes, use a special foot for sewing beads on fabric. With it, you can stitch a thread of beads and beads with a diameter of 2 to 5 mm. The thread for sewing can be either transparent (monofilament) or contrasting.

We install a special foot for beads on the machine, insert a thread with beads or beads into the groove of the foot. Select a zigzag stitch, the stitch length and stitch width depends on the diameter of the beads to be sewn on. When sewing with monofilament, loosen the upper thread tension to 1. If you are using beads strung on the line, leave a small amount of line for the beads to move freely when sewing.

First, we carefully back-tack at the beginning of sewing with 3-4 reverse stitches and make a machine stitch for a reinforcing thread with beads. It is necessary to sew on beads, cords, beads, piping, braid at medium or slow speed, directing the thread with beads into the groove on the foot.

If the thread needs to be sewn at an angle on the product, at the point of rotation we lower the needle into the fabric, raise the foot, unfold the fabric together with the thread (the needle remains in the fabric at this time, it is used as an axis), direct the thread at the desired angle, lower the foot and continue stitching. If the beads are very close to each other, then the angle will not be sharp. If you want to make a 90 degree angle, then the beads should not be close. It is best to sew on beaded threads in straight or slightly curved lines.

If you have two rows of beads as planned, then the side of the foot will determine the minimum distance between the rows of threads.

If we need to process the edge of the product with a beaded thread, it must be pre-processed (on an overlock or overcast line) and, having bent, ironed. We stir the thread with beads and the folded edge of the fabric under the foot, at the beginning and end of the line we make a bartack with reverse stitches. We start sewing, in the process we make sure that the bead thread is close to the fold of the fabric.

Also beads can be sewn individually. In this case, the beads are laid on the fabric with a flat surface. The first needle prick is made in the hole of the beads, before the second needle prick the fabric moves in the direction opposite to the stitch line by an amount equal to the height of the beads. The second prick of the needle is made into the fabric and the needle thread turns the beads in such a way that it lies on the fabric with a spherical surface. Before the third needle prick, the fabric moves in the direction of the stitch by an amount equal to the sum of the diameter and height of the beads. The third prick of the needle corresponds to the first, while the needle thread slips off the sewn beads. This method simplifies the work of sewing beads and beads to the fabric.

See you on the pages of the site mirmotka.ru

mirmotka.ru

Don't know how to embroider on a sewing machine? You just haven't tried! - Arts and crafts fair

If you have a Singer foot sewing machine and a desire to embroider, then this is 90% success. If there is no such machine, but there is an electric one with a foot pedal, then you can embroider on it with no less success. I started to embroider on Singer, and then switched to electric. I don't see much of a difference.

These entries are for beginners, but inspired by the idea of ​​getting maximum results with minimum effort.

The only thing you need to learn is to lay a straight line on a typewriter. The main principle of such embroidery is to embroider how to draw. Still not knowing how to embroider, I embroidered this girl based on a painting by a Korean artist, with a simple straight line.

First, try to embroider a straight line. Let's tuck the fabric into the hoop. The fabric is better to take cotton or linen. The size of the hoop should be small. The optimal diameter is 15 cm. This size allows you to stretch the fabric very strongly in the hoop so that the embroidery does not tighten the fabric. We wrap the inner hoop of the hoop with adhesive tape so that the tension of the fabric does not weaken during operation.

The next step is preparing the machine for embroidery. We take off the paw. We lower the lower conveyor. Adjust the tension of the lower and upper threads. For embroidery, it is better if the bottom thread is pulled a little more than the top thread. The bobbin thread should be fairly thin. Ideally cotton No. 80 - 60. We transfer the pattern to the fabric. I do this with a green carbon paper.

Let's get started. We lay the hoop under the needle on the bed of the sewing machine, not as usual with hand embroidery, but by turning the hoop "inside out", so that the fabric in the hoop lies tightly on the base of the sewing machine. Lower the presser foot lifter. The presser foot has been removed, but the lever must be lowered to tension the upper thread.

Lower and raise the needle once and pull the bobbin thread up. We take the lower and upper thread together with the left hand, take them away from the needle and make several stitches in one place, fixing them on the fabric. We cut off the ends.

First you need to learn how to lay a straight line with approximately the same stitch length. For a foot machine, you can adjust the speed yourself. For electric - harder or weaker pressing the pedal. If the electric has a speed control button, then first set it to the minimum.

All! The boring part is over. Creativity begins. After some training in laying a straight stitch, the question arises - what can be embroidered with such a poor technique as a simple straight stitch? It should be clarified that when I say a straight line, it does not mean. that the line is laid strictly in a straight line. This is a somewhat arbitrary term. The line can go along a slightly curved curve, but the essence of this does not change. The line remains a simple line. Now I'll try to draw something as an example. I embroidered a rectangle. 2 filling its area with parallel lines: loose, dense and darker in color. Four leaves are embroidered with lines of different density and color:

Enough effective pattern embroidered with a simple stitch using two colors. All lines are sheathed twice.

The most spectacular embroidery- this is an art piece. It is created by pouring one color into another due to the fact that the stitches of threads of different colors enter each other at different depths, thereby creating a continuous transition from dark to light. Let's try this with our simple technique. The best effect is obtained with the help of a smooth surface, but this requires more skill. I will show you how to embroider a leaf and a flower petal. Let's start with a leaf. Sew the outline of the leaf with a small stitch and start embroidering the most light color. We try not to go beyond the contour of the leaf. Stitch length about 4 - 5 mm. One line is 2-3 stitches from the edge towards the center of the leaf and back.

We carry out embroidery in the same color on the second half of the leaf:

Then we embroider with a darker thread closer to the middle of the sheet:

On the other side of the leaf, we embroider closer to the edge. Finishing, we make several stitches at one point, fixing the thread and cut it off.

We embroider the veins and the edge with the darkest thread.

Let's move on to the petal. We choose three colors close in tone but different lightness. We start by sheathing the contour with the lightest thread, making the so-called flooring at the end of the petal. The flooring is parallel lines in the place where embroidery will be performed in the future. The direction of the stitches of the decking should be perpendicular to the direction of the stitches of the embroidery itself. The flooring allows you to make embroidery voluminous, embossed, which adds to its decorative effect.

We begin to embroider from the outer contour of the petal, placing the stitches from the edge to the center.

We introduce more dark color threads, trying to get some stitches into the field of a lighter thread

We continue to "color the petal more dark color, "pouring" one tone into another. The petal is ready.

And now let's try to make a simple but cute composition of blades of grass and small flowers, which can be used to decorate children's clothes, for example.

And it's almost a work of art. Almost, because it is embroidered with a line. not ironing. Embroidered with viscose silk. The direction of the stitches that follow the shape of the leaves and petals is important. The stitches are slightly longer. than in the previous embroidery. About 5 mm.

All examples are of varying complexity in execution, but are the same in technique - a straight line; but in theory - we embroider with a line, as if we are shading, we paint over the picture. I intend to continue this topic in the next posts. If you liked my approach to embroidery and it inspired you to embroider, I will be very happy.

www.livemaster.ru

Source

stranamasterovv.ru

Designation of stitches on sewing machines

The set of stitches even for simple machines is sufficient for sewing all types of fabrics: jeans, leather and knitwear. Sewing machines for beginners have basic stitches: straight, zigzag, overcasting stitches and perform seaming, darning, blind stitching, sewing on buttons and buttonholes. If your hobby is sewing and you use various materials, including knitted ones and you are interested in high-quality processing of the edge of the material, it is better to look at middle-class machines, entry-level electromechanical and electronic ones. As a rule, they have an extended set of operations (up to 30 types of stitches), a knitted stitch, overlock stitches, as well as an automatic buttonhole mode.

For professionals whose needs are not limited to 30 lines, we can recommend the most extensive electronic and computer class of sewing machines in terms of capabilities. They have knitted, overlock, reinforced and decorative seams and the number of lines in such machines varies from 50 to 1000.

Source

master-class.mirtesen.ru

Stitch - one of the types of embroidery. Linen is embroidered with a stitch, clothes, household items are decorated. The surface is white, welt, one-color and multi-color.

White smooth surface - it includes a simple machine line, stalk seam, seam "roller", banners, etc.

Convex shapes are characteristic of the white surface. Make smooth surface with flooring. It is used mainly in vegetable patterns. She embroiders both small and large drawings. You can embroider patterns with both white and colored threads of the same tone. On thin material, embroidery is done with silk or bobbin threads No. 80. When embroidering with satin stitch, the details are sheathed with a “roller” along the laid thread (spool No. 30). The veins of the petals are made with a double line: from the center to the contour and along the same line back. The leaves are filled with a light surface. Holes in small flowers are performed without prior stitching. In a single-color version, one half of the leaves can be embroidered with light stitches, the other with dense ones. Grids in large details can be any (slotted, false, banner grids).

Slotted smooth surface - it is characterized by through patterns. The slotted surface consists of holes of various sizes and shapes, sheathed with a roller without backing thread. Welt smoothness is combined with white smoothness, with nets, hemstitches.

A variety of things can be embroidered with colored stitch on any fabric. With color embroidery, the consistent introduction of threads is important. different colors and tones according to the drawing. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the stitches of different tones smoothly flow into one another - while trying to maintain the direction of the stitches in the flowers towards the middle, in the leaves - towards the midrib. The stitches are guided over the entire area of ​​the embroidered part.

Richelieu - a sign of this embroidery are holes cut in the fabric, through which jumpers (brides) are thrown. It is good to perform Richelieu on the canvas with bobbin thread No. 80. The pattern is applied to the fabric, and then the contours are stitched with a small line twice, close row to row, for edge strength. In places of expansion of the lines of the pattern, at the ends of the petals, the flooring is made with a frequent line. All lined contours are processed with a “roller”. The edges of the cut-out space are treated entirely with a roller with thread No. 10 (for strength).

The middle of the petal can be shaded with strokes - a dashed mound. The core of the flower can be filled with a patterned grid. To make the pattern more beautiful and stand out more sharply on the fabric, you can make a transparent grid around it.

Mosaic grid - it is used mainly as a background for patterns. The contours of the pattern are stitched for strength with a small line twice close. The fabric is cut as needed in parts, without removing it from the hoop. When the entire mesh is filled with sheathed warps, the edges of the cutout are also sheathed with a “roller”.

Some of these seams are usually taught at school in technology classes - http://uchitelya.com/tehnologiya/

In addition to knowing the seams, you must also remember that embroidery on napkins and handkerchiefs is performed on thin white or plain material with silk white or colored threads to match the material. The edges of the handkerchief can be finished various options cloves - "roller", festoons. Patterns are embroidered using various stitches that make up the satin stitch technique.

The embroidery is finished. Now wash your work, iron the fabric from the inside out on a soft bedding. Then, with scissors (with sharp rounded ends), cut out from the inside pieces of fabric under the breeches and the edge of the product, if it is sheathed with scallops (the edges of a napkin, collars, handkerchiefs, etc.).

If there were holes in the pattern you chose, then they can be given nice shape, stretching them with a thick knitting needle, inserting it into the hole from the inside.

Then the product must be ironed again from the inside out.

Author - Frosya Burlakova (a wonderful master, an example for me to follow, because she knows so many excellent seams that I never dreamed of, and most importantly, she knows how to use them!), from the forum club.season.ru/lofiversion/index.php/t11215.html.

This is the name I came up with! If you don't like it, you can call it whatever you like.

Its application is multifaceted, interesting and very effective. I can say that I use this seam in almost every thing I sew.

Fabrics - any.

It is tiny in the face and rather large on the wrong side, loosely tightened stitches back to the needle. The main effect that can be obtained is a natural-looking fastening of a package of materials (of any thickness) taking into account the wrapping of layers (of any number of them). And this effect is very useful and necessary, which in a different way has to be achieved by sitting down, suturing, putting pieces of wood under allowances, etc. And in many cases, it is the beaded seam that gives an unsurpassed result.

Execution
I sew in the face from right to left. I make a tiny (1-2 threads) stitch back on the face and a large (8-10-12 mm) stitch forward on the wrong side. I tighten it loosely so that the thickness through which I sew is not tightened in any way.

Approximately like this. The number of layers of fabric can be any.

I take the thread on the fabric inconspicuous (although this is not necessary) and thin.

Wherein I DO NOT use the embroidery method, when the thread is pulled to the end, first inside out, and then there. Not! That's the whole point, that the needle is pulled up and down at one time and there it is. Because this is how we use the wonderful property of hand seams, which allows us to do all sorts of tricks here.

Trick number 1 IN THE WORLD :)

When sewing on the hands, the top layer of fabric is planted. Everyone knows that the machine plants the bottom layer, although there are all sorts of paws about which manufacturers say that they do not plant :). And when sewing on the hands, the opposite happens (if you do NOT sew using the embroidery method). This is how we hold the fabric in our fingers, it is not stretched straight, but slightly in an arc.

Moreover, the machine just plants the bottom layer, those. pick it up a bit. And on the hands, the upper layer does not gather, but, as it were, is slightly overtightened and correctly bends around the lower layer. Layers of fabric, in particular allowances, can thus be laid on top of each other very correctly and beautifully on all roundness of the figure. Virtually no wrinkles and no steps. Fastening them with a beaded seam.

===========================

Personally, I use this fastening very often.

Application #1.

The combination of a narrow bodice with a fluffy skirt.

As a New Look lover, I often sew dresses with puffy skirts. 6 m on the bottom is not a question :).

Now imagine that you gathered around 2.5 m of a skirt around the waist to 58 cm of the waist of your bodice. They sewed a skirt to the bodice and ... Oh, what a wonderful thick sausage from the allowance at the waist, how it decorates and slims your tightened waist! :) the fabric protrudes onto the sausage, and slack forms above.

Sew? - will not help. The sausage will remain in place, and even the seam will go in waves, stretch in the stitching.

Smooth down, press down? - alas... The law of conservation of mass.

Suffered technology.

1. The bodice is lengthened by 1.5, maybe 2 cm. with an extension from the LT down, and also with a little additional freedom to bend around the allowance, somewhere around 1 cm in a circle. Under this extension, the sausage allowance will be neatly laid (a little lower, and not at the waist itself).

2. The skirt is sewn on. It is better not to overcast the seam, or simply process it with a thin oblique overcast. If you really want to use a machine, then overcast the skirt separately in a gathered form. But as a rule, this seam is closed with a doubler, those. becomes internal.

3. The seam is not ironed at first, as it will be laid with fingers in a beautiful position. In principle, out of habit, you can sweep the allowance up without tightening, just to hold on, just temporarily attach, throw the needle forward in the face (this is a must). Or just flatten the allowance with your fingers up.

4. And now go through the face with a beaded seam, sewing on the allowance. Somewhere 5-6 mm above the seam along the LT. You don’t need to pull anything, the main thing here is molding. You sort of lay layer after layer on the waist cylinder from the inside out: a densely gathered skirt allowance, bodice allowance, top of the bodice. We do not pull the top fabric from the seam, naturalness is an ally. - The feeling of a sculptor... And stitch the stack of fabric layers in the correct position. In general, this happens almost by itself. Trick number 1 is the best assistant. You can rarely sew, 8-10 mm approx.

5. Well, now you can stroke it, although, in general, everything is already lying. Just fix what happened with your fingers.

If you iron from the inside, then iron it, if outside, then iron it. But this is, basically, for order, maybe. everything is shaped with a beaded seam.

Here is an example of such processing.
This photo is from life, just family. Because the angles that turned out.

Large first photo is the back, the second is the front.

The blue arrow shows where the lengthening of the bodice is, under which the allowance is hidden. - Do you see it? :) - It is sewn with a beaded seam up from the seam along the LT and does not stand out at all, because the layers of fabric are laid with fingers and fastened with threads. 60 rare stitches ... well, let 5 seconds per stitch be 5 minutes of work ... And it will never stand out :). Try to lay it like this in any other way. - And he is plump there, and even uneven: cream fabric - dense cotton, lilac - very dense cotton, almost jeans. And there are also seams, and reliefs. And this bodice is without corset tricks, without rigilin and without bones, the current doubler.

The red arrow shows that nothing spoils the waistline. No steps.

On a large front photo, I personally don’t see anything where there are beaded stitches :) But I know for sure that there is! She sewed, here.

I can say that I personally almost always sew all the allowances on the bodice with a beaded (it's a dotted, good name!) seam. For molding, you do not need so thick, but for finishing - this is with any density.

Application #2.

I'll have to turn to my modest creativity again :). We will talk about very practical things, specifically - about sewing velvet. Everyone knows what a problem this is. And therefore, I offer your kind attention ... this skirt.

1. Figured yoke with a corner at the back and front, satin lining.
2. Dense assembly for a yoke.
3. High stitched belt. Glueless, double lined, lined with satin.
4. The belt has a smell in front, the right and left halves overlap each other at the waist by about 8 cm.

You are all sewing people, so I think you immediately imagined a million problems arising. Some of them.

iron on the rib at the top of the belt very elastic satin
so that the assemblies do not bubble in the seam of the coquette
so that the upper allowance of the coquette does not stick out in the belt
and now let's count the layers in the seam where the smell is on the LT .... Mamma mia, there are 16 of them and 5 of them are velvet.

Are you hoping to iron this allowance? :) And so that it doesn’t bubble, doesn’t pull, doesn’t shine? :)

In total, here is a bright picture and a description of my work on the formation of this entire structure using hand seams. To be honest, it turned out even better than I expected. It is on capricious velvet that many problems that cannot be solved with an iron are solved with a hand seam, and on velvet it is almost invisible (to the chagrin of Amantha :), because a thin silk thread sinks in the pile. Even more honestly, I can not imagine how to do it in another way.

And here are the technical pictures. The thickness of the belt in the smell.

Here is the wrong side, on which the stitches are visible, they are shortened, this is due to the large thickness during molding. You can't see them from your face.

And the mulberry on the next photo is the molding process itself. For the sample, I took a yellow thread.

Here you can see that when sewing, I lay the work on my finger, and I sew, which is why numerous layers of fabric are laid without deformation, as if on a cylinder, the lower layers are sewn on and do not bubble, and the belt takes on a rounded shape corresponding to the shape of the body. After all, I will wear it on a round waist, and not on a flat closet.

On a mannequin, this is generally very convenient to do. But my fingers are used to it, and I do it in the air, I can even slightly adjust this degree of rounding, more on the sides, smaller in front.

Probably, every girl at school at needlework lessons was taught the main types of seams for hand and machine sewing. But over time, these skills disappear. And when you need to apply the knowledge of the seams, it becomes an almost impossible task. Immediately you need to remember how to perform a French seam, how to tuck the fabric and re-learn the art of threading the lower and upper threads in the machine.

All fabric processing technologies are divided into two groups. It's not hard to remember them. It is manual and machine more diverse).

The main types of hand seams

They are used to connect parts of a future product. The most common designed for fastening parts can be called a seam made in basting technique. It is designed to temporarily connect the details of the product, outline its future appearance. Most often, cotton threads of different thicknesses are used to make this seam. Also popular technology - "over the edge." With its help, the parts are sewn together so that the resulting fragment of the product can be turned inside out.

The buttonhole stitch is more often used for decorative finishing - in this way, the edges of a hand-embroidered napkin are processed. The "back of the needle" stitch looks the same as a machine stitch. Therefore, it is used in cases where you need to hem the hem of a skirt, for example. But in order to shorten the product, they came up with hemming seams. They are of two types: simple and secret. It's not hard to master them. useful when you do not want anyone to see the stitches of thread on finished product. It is used frequently. To manual technicians fabric processing does not include a French seam, although it may seem that it is made by a person and not by a machine.

Machine seams

Machine stitching will take much less time than the same job done by hand. On a sewing machine, tailors even use decorative technique processing fabric or decorating the finished product. They look especially impressive if you make a line with a thread that differs in color from the fabric. Contrasting colors will look best in this case. are divided into two types: connecting and decorative.

Connecting machine seams

The most commonly used fabric processing technique is a connecting seam or “stitch”, that is, designed to fasten the parts of the product together. This is a normal straight line. The threads are not visible at all, with the correct execution of the work, of course.

Turning seam is one of the types of sewing technique. It is used during the processing of reversible parts. To do this, the parts are folded face to face and connected with a simple line, that is, they use a stitching technique.

The stitching seam is one of the most durable. It is also called "denim". Why? It is often used to process denim. The stitching seam looks like a decorative stitch, both from the front and from the wrong side. With the help of a sewing seam, all types of linen can be made.

When sewing bed linen, a double turn-out seam is used. To join the overlays, tailors use the technique of making a false seam with a folded cut. You can see it on the finished product. And to process the cuts of the details of the product, the master needs knowledge of how to make edging seams. Particular attention can be paid to the double seam.

double seam

It is very common in light industry. This technique is also called French and linen stitching. The double seam on the front side looks like an ordinary stitched connecting line. From the inside, it looks like a stitched fold. Often a French seam is used to process thin, "flying" and such as organza, silk. Linen stitching looks very similar to the sewing technique, but it is simpler. But how can you learn how to perform this machine seam if the description is incomprehensible in the text, but the picture is completely schematic and strange?

Those girls who want to learn how to perform a French seam can watch a master class on it on the Internet. Such video tutorials can be found on popular sites. This method of learning is very convenient - everything is visible, there is sound, you can watch the video several times.

But if you explain in words, then the description of the execution technology will be small. First you need to fold the parts inside out to each other, lay a line at a distance of 0.5 centimeters from the cut of the part. Then you need to cut the allowances close to the laid line and carefully unfold the parts, folding them the other way around - front sides to each other. It remains only to lay the line again with the help of a sewing machine and that's it - the linen line is ready. You can do the procedure several times until the result satisfies you. As you can see, double stitching on a typewriter is not difficult at all.

Decorative machine stitches

Decorative seams are used for finishing products. They give the impression of embroidery and look beautiful. One of the decorative seams is the stem stitch. It is used to make plant stems, small twigs and other embroidery elements. A line is laid with small stitches along the contour of the pattern once or twice (depending on the thickness of the thread). There is also a "beaded" stitch, so named because it resembles a line embroidered with beads.

The decorative and finishing seam, performed using a sewing machine, looks very beautiful, and it is called a “pigtail”. It looks great for summer women's sundresses and dresses.

Conclusion

We talked about how to understand the basic hand and machine seams. Learning how to perform them, if desired, is not so difficult, because today it is very simple to find any benefit. french stitch may be useful to you more often than other technologies for connecting product parts, so you should pay special attention to it.

Satin roll "cordone" - is the main seam in machine embroidery and the most difficult. It must be done in the following way. Sew along the outline of the pattern 2 times with a small line. Then take a lining thread (cotton No. 10, 20, 40, depending on the fabric), single or double, put it on the line and fix it first with 2-3 strokes of the needle. Holding the laying thread with your left hand and pulling it slightly, lay it on the line, while overlapping with frequent even cross stitches. The hoop should be moved to the right and left and away from you, moving it slowly along the line. In this case, the needle strikes from one side, then from the other side of the interlining thread, laying the stitches close to one another. We must try to ensure that the stitches are even in length and slope and as close as possible to the laying thread. In order for the needle not to fall between the two laying threads when making the roller, they must be twisted slightly together. The intermediate thread should be the same color as the main embroidery thread.

• The lower thread - cotton No. 60-80 - white or in the color of the fabric - is taut.
• Upper thread - silk No. 65A, floss, cotton No. 80 - a little weaker.

The quality of this seam largely depends on the accuracy of execution. When performed correctly, the roller should turn out to be even, convex and rather narrow in width, not much greater than the thickness of the cushioning thread, and look like a thin cord. When making a roller on thick fabrics, cotton threads No. 10 should be taken for laying, and cotton threads No. 40 on thin fabrics. Before applying the laying thread, the outline of the pattern must be stitched with a small line once. In the event that the edges of the product (scallops) or cuts in the cutwork are processed with a roller, then for strength the outline of the pattern is trimmed with a double line, and the lines should fit snugly against each other. First, for training, it is recommended to work out the correct execution of this seam on a piece of fabric. And then, with the acquisition of skill, you can embroider a small pattern using various “lines”, “mound”, and process its outline with a satin roller.

The cordon satin roller is used to fix the edge of the product in the form of various scallops, a cut in cutwork embroidery, as well as to give clarity and relief to the embroidery pattern.

Using the main seams, you can embroider a simple pattern - a cherry or strawberry branch, filling the leaves with a stitched stitch or a “figure eight” seam, and filling the berries with a “mound” seam with colored threads on a small napkin or a small pillow for needles, you can decorate children's clothes.

After mastering the basic seams, you can move on to more complex embroideries. Usually they start with hemstitching, in the process of embroidering which they work out the accuracy of the needle strike and quickly master the embroidery technique on the machine.