GOST 31678-2012

INTERSTATE STANDARD

PERFUME LIQUID PRODUCTS

General specifications

liquid perfumery products. General specifications

MKS 71.100.70

Introduction date 2013-07-01

Foreword

Foreword

Objectives, basic principles and general rules carrying out work on interstate standardization, GOST 1.0 "Interstate standardization system. Basic provisions" and GOST 1.2 "Interstate standardization system. Interstate standards, rules and recommendations for interstate standardization. Rules for the development, adoption, updating and cancellation"

About the standard

1 PREPARED BY A Working Group with the participation of members of the Technical Committee for Standardization TC 360 "Perfume and Cosmetic Products" and the Russian Perfume and Cosmetic Association

2 INTRODUCED by the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology

3 ADOPTED by the Interstate Council for Standardization, Metrology and Certification (Minutes of November 15, 2012 N 42)

Voted to accept:

4 interstate standard GOST 31678-2012 was put into effect as a national standard Russian Federation since July 1, 2013

5 This standard has been prepared based on the application of GOST R 51578-2000 *
________________
* By order of the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology dated November 29, 2012 N 1750-st GOST R 51578-2000 was canceled from February 15, 2015

6 INTRODUCED FOR THE FIRST TIME

7 REVISION. April 2019


Information on the entry into force (termination) of this standard and changes to it in the territory of the above states is published in the indexes of national standards published in these states, as well as on the Internet on the websites of the relevant national standardization bodies.

In case of revision, change or cancellation of this standard, the relevant information will be published on the official website of the Interstate Council for Standardization, Metrology and Certification in the "Interstate Standards" catalog

1 area of ​​use

This standard applies to alcohol-containing perfumery liquid products - perfumes, colognes, perfumery, toilet and fragrant waters (hereinafter referred to as perfumery liquids).

The terms for perfume liquids are specified in Appendix A.

Perfumes, perfumes and toilet waters are used as flavoring agents.

Colognes are used as hygienic, refreshing and flavoring agents.

Fragrant waters are used as hygienic and refreshing means.

The standard establishes general technical requirements for perfume liquids and methods for their testing.

Safety requirements are set out in 3.1.5, 3.2, 3.3.1, section 4.

Identification indicators are given in 3.1.4 (appearance, color, smell, sum of mass fractions of fragrant substances).

2 Normative references

This standard uses normative references to the following interstate standards:

GOST 12.1.004 Occupational safety standards system. Fire safety. General requirements

GOST 12.1.007 System of labor safety standards. Harmful substances. Classification and general safety requirements

GOST 1770 (ISO 1042-83, ISO 4788-80) Measuring laboratory glassware. Cylinders, beakers, flasks, test tubes. General specifications

GOST 2405 Pressure gauges, vacuum gauges, pressure and vacuum gauges, pressure gauges, draft gauges and thrust gauges. General specifications

GOST 4233 Reagents. Sodium chloride. Specifications

GOST 5789 Reagents. Toluene. Specifications

GOST 6709 * Distilled water. Specifications
________________
GOST R 58144-2018.


GOST 6995 Reagents. Methanol is a poison. Specifications

GOST 9147 Porcelain laboratory glassware and equipment. Specifications

GOST 9412 Medical gauze. General specifications

GOST 9880-76 Coal and shale toluene. Specifications

GOST 9949 Coal tar xylene. Specifications

GOST 14198 Technical cyclohexane. Specifications

GOST 18300 * Technical rectified ethyl alcohol. Specifications
________________
* In the Russian Federation, GOST R 55878-2013 "Technical hydrolytic rectified ethyl alcohol. Specifications" is in force.


GOST 20015 Chloroform. Specifications

GOST 24104 ** Laboratory balances. General technical requirements
________________
** In the Russian Federation, GOST R 53228-2008 "Non-automatic scales. Part 1. Metrological and technical requirements. Tests" is in force.


GOST 25336 Laboratory glassware and equipment. Types, basic parameters and dimensions

GOST 26927 Food raw materials and products. Methods for the determination of mercury

GOST 26929 Food raw materials and products. Sample preparation. Mineralization to determine the content of toxic elements

GOST 26930 Food raw materials and products. Arsenic determination method

GOST 26932 Food raw materials and products. Lead determination method

GOST 27429 Liquid perfume and cosmetic products. Packaging, marking, transportation and storage

GOST 28498 Liquid glass thermometers. General technical requirements. Test Methods

GOST 29188.0-91 *** Perfume and cosmetic products. Acceptance rules, sampling, organoleptic test methods
________________
*** GOST 29188.0-2014 "Perfume and cosmetic products. Rules for acceptance, sampling, methods of organoleptic tests" is in force.


GOST 29188.6 Perfume and cosmetic products. Gas chromatographic method for the determination of ethyl alcohol

GOST 29227 (ISO 835-1-81) Laboratory glassware. Pipettes graduated. Part 1. General requirements

GOST 29251 (ISO 385-1-84) Laboratory glassware. Burettes. Part 1. General requirements

GOST 30178 Food raw materials and products. Atomic absorption method for the determination of toxic elements

GOST 31676 Perfume and cosmetic products. Colorimetric methods for determining mass fractions of mercury, lead, arsenic, cadmium

Note - When using this standard, it is advisable to check the validity of reference standards and classifiers on the official website of the Interstate Council for Standardization, Metrology and Certification (www.easc.by) or according to the indexes of national standards published in the states indicated in the preface, or on official websites of the respective national standards bodies. If an undated reference is given to a document, then the current document, mutatis mutandis, should be used. If the referenced document is replaced by a dated reference, then the indicated version of this document should be used. If, after the adoption of this International Standard, a change is made to the referenced document to which a dated reference is made that affects the provision to which the reference is made, that provision shall apply without regard to that change. If the document is canceled without replacement, then the provision in which the link to it is given applies in the part that does not affect this link.

3 Technical requirements

3.1 Characteristic

3.1.1 Perfume liquids are alcohol, alcohol-water or water-alcohol solutions of multicomponent mixtures of aromatic substances (perfume compositions). Perfume liquids may contain dyes, antioxidants and other additives in accordance with and / or other regulatory documents in force in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

3.1.2 Perfume liquids are divided into perfumes, perfumery, toilet and fragrant waters and colognes, which differ in the values ​​of physico-chemical parameters: the sum of the mass fractions of aromatic substances, the volume fraction of ethyl alcohol, the odor resistance and the transparency of the liquid.

3.1.3 Perfume liquids must be produced in accordance with the requirements of this standard for recipes and technical requirements for a specific product name and technological regulations (instructions), subject to and / or sanitary norms and rules in force in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

3.1.4 In terms of organoleptic and physico-chemical parameters, perfume liquids must comply with the requirements specified in Table 1.

The values ​​of indicators for specific perfume liquids should be given in the technical description (technical requirements).


Table 1

3.1.5 Microbiological indicators, the content of toxic elements of perfume liquids for children and fragrant water must comply with the safety standards established

3.1.6 Toxicological and clinical and laboratory indicators must comply with safety standards established and / or standards approved in the prescribed manner in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

3.2 Requirements for raw materials and supplies

Raw materials for the preparation of perfume liquids must comply with the requirements and / or regulatory documents approved in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

For the preparation of perfume liquids, rectified ethyl alcohol from food raw materials, rectified technical ethyl alcohol in accordance with GOST 18300 (brand "Extra"), synthetic ethyl alcohol, manufactured according to a regulatory document in force on the territory of the state that has adopted the standard and permitted for use on the territory of the state, that adopted the standard, or the same alcohols denatured with additives permitted in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

3.3 Marking

3.3.1 Labeling of consumer containers with perfume liquids - according to and / or in accordance with other regulatory documents in force in the territory of the state that has adopted the standard with the following addition.

On consumer packaging with perfume liquids indicate the volume fraction of ethyl alcohol (% vol).

3.3.2 Marking of transport containers - according to GOST 27429.

3.4 Packaging

3.4.1 Packaging of perfume liquids - according to GOST 27429.

3.4.2 Perfume liquids may be packed in bottles equipped with a mechanical atomizer.

3.4.3 Packaging of perfume liquids must ensure the safety of products.

3.4.4 Perfume liquids are packaged in accordance with the manufacturer's technical document for a specific product name. Permissible deviation by volume should not exceed ±5%.

3.4.5 Perfume liquids are packed in bottles with a volume not exceeding 255 ml.

3.4.6 Containers and packaging must be made of materials approved for contact with food in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

3.4.7 It is not allowed to release perfume liquids in consumer packaging intended for food products, alcoholic beverages and household chemicals.

4 Safety requirements

4.1 According to the degree of impact on the human body, perfume liquids in accordance with GOST 12.1.007 are classified as hazard class 4 (substances of low hazard).

Perfume liquids should not have a general toxic, skin-irritating and sensitizing effect.

4.2 Perfume liquids must comply with safety standards and / or those in force in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

4.3 Perfume liquids are classified as flammable liquids.

4.4 General requirements for ensuring fire safety must comply with GOST 12.1.004.

4.5 In case of fire, water mist, chemical foam, sand, all types of fire extinguishers should be used.

5 Acceptance rules

5.1 Perfume liquids are accepted according to GOST 29188.0-91, section 1.

5.2 Sampling is carried out in accordance with GOST 29188.0-91, section 2.

5.3 Acceptance and periodic tests are carried out to verify the compliance of perfumery liquids with the requirements of this standard.

5.4 Acceptance tests are carried out in terms of: appearance, color, smell, transparency, volume fraction of ethyl alcohol.

5.5 The order and frequency by indicators: the sum of mass fractions of fragrant substances, the content of toxic elements, microbiological indicators are established by the manufacturer in the technical document.

5.6 Persistence of the smell of perfume liquids is determined in case of disagreement in assessing the quality of products.

5.7 Microbiological indicators are determined in perfumery liquids for children and fragrant water containing no more than 25% of the volume fraction of ethyl alcohol, in accordance with the manufacturer's technical documents.

6 Test methods

From the sample selected according to GOST 29188.0-91, a combined sample is made up, which for liquids from vials must be at least 100 cm3, and for liquids from test tubes - at least 25 cm3.

6.1 Appearance definition

The appearance of perfume liquids is determined according to GOST 29188.0-91, section 3.

6.2 Color determination

The color of perfume liquids is determined according to GOST 29188.0-91, section 3.

6.3 Determination of smell

The smell of perfume liquids is determined according to GOST 29188.0-91, section 3.

6.4 Determination of odor persistence

6.4.1 Apparatus, materials

Evaporating cup N 3 according to GOST 9147.

Pipettes 6-1-5 according to GOST 29227.

Gauze according to GOST 9412.

Tweezers.

6.4.2 Conducting the test

From 0.5 to 1.0 cm of perfume liquid is poured into the evaporation cup. A piece of dry, bleached gauze with dimensions of 5x10 cm, previously washed in hot water without soap, is moistened in it, taken out with tweezers and, without squeezing, dried in a room with an air temperature of 15 ° C to 20 ° C.

The odor resistance of perfume liquids is determined organoleptically every 10 hours.

6.5 Definition of transparency

6.5.1 Apparatus, materials

Electric lamp with a power of 40 W.

Test tubes according to GOST 25336.

Cylinder 1-50 according to GOST 1770.

GOST 28498.

A mixture of ice and salt (3:1).

6.5.2 Conducting the test

From 10 to 20 ml of perfume liquid is poured into a test tube using a cylinder. The test tube is closed with a stopper into which a thermometer is inserted (the thermometer ball must be completely immersed in the test liquid). A test tube with a perfume liquid is cooled with a mixture of ice and salt to 5 ° C when analyzing colognes and fragrant waters and to 3 ° C - perfumes, perfumes and toilet waters, then removed from the cooling mixture, shaken and viewed in transmitted daylight or the light of an electric lamp.

6.6 Determination of the volume fraction of ethanol

The volume fraction of ethyl alcohol in perfume liquids is determined by the mass fraction of ethyl alcohol by gas chromatography according to GOST 29188.6, followed by recalculation according to alcoholometric tables.

6.7 Determination of the sum of mass fractions of fragrant substances

The mass fraction of odorants in perfume liquids is determined by the gas chromatography method of 6.7.1, the gravimetric method of 6.7.2, 6.7.3 and the volumetric method of 6.7.4.

6.7.1 The sum of mass fractions of aromatic substances is determined by gas chromatography.

The method is based on determining the sum of the mass fractions of fragrant substances as the difference between the total content of the components of the perfume liquid (ethyl alcohol, water, fragrant substances), taken as 100%, and the sum of the mass fractions of ethyl alcohol and water, expressed as a percentage.

The sum of the mass fractions of fragrant substances,%, is calculated by the formula

where is the mass fraction of ethyl alcohol,%;

- mass fraction of water,%.

, ,

6.7.1.1 The mass fraction of ethyl alcohol in perfume liquid is determined by gas chromatography according to GOST 29188.6.

6.7.1.2 The mass fraction of water in a perfume liquid is determined by gas chromatography.

6.7.1.2.1 Apparatus and reagents - according to GOST 29188.6 with the following addition:

gas chromatograph with a thermal conductivity detector brand LKhM-80 or similar;

distilled water according to GOST 6709.

6.7.1.2.2 To prepare for the test, it is necessary to prepare nozzles and columns - in accordance with GOST 29188.6 and prepare samples.

To determine the relative calibration coefficient, 2 samples are prepared as follows: from 0.5 to 1.0 g of water is weighed in a flask with a ground stopper and propyl alcohol is added to it in an amount approximately 3 times the amount of water taken. Weighing results in grams are recorded to the fourth decimal place. Each sample is chromatographed and the arithmetic mean of 10 determinations and is found.

To determine the mass fraction of water, the same sample is used as for the determination of ethyl alcohol according to 2.3.2 GOST 29188.6-91.

6.7.1.2.3 Testing - in accordance with GOST 29188.6.

6.7.1.2.4 For processing the results, the peak area on the chromatograph is measured by an automatic digital integrator.

Mass fraction of water,%, is calculated by the internal standard method according to the formula

where is the mass of the internal standard, taking into account purity, g;

- area of ​​the peak of water;

- relative calibration factor;

- mass of the analyzed sample, g;

is the peak area of ​​the internal standard.

The relative calibration factor is calculated by the formula

where is the mass of water, g.

The approximate value of the relative calibration factor for the thermal conductivity detector is 1.0.

For the final value of the relative calibration coefficient, the arithmetic mean of the coefficients of the discrepancy between which should not exceed 0.02 is taken.

For the final test result, the arithmetic mean of the results of two parallel measurements is taken, the allowable discrepancy between which should not exceed 1%; limits of relative measurement error - ±2.5% at a probability of 0.95.

6.7.2 Determination of the sum of mass fractions of aromatic substances by the gravimetric method in perfumery liquids with a mass fraction of water introduced according to the recipe, more than 10%.

The method is based on the extraction of aromatic substances from perfume liquids with chloroform, followed by gravimetric determination of the sum of mass fractions of aromatic substances in the residue after distillation of solvents.

6.7.2.1 The apparatus and reagents used in the gravimetric method for the control of perfume liquids with a mass fraction of water added according to the recipe of more than 10% are as follows.

GOST 24104.

Flask K-1-50-14/23 TC according to GOST 25336.

Test tube P-2-25-14/23 according to GOST 1770.

GOST 25336.

GOST 25336.

GOST 25336.

GOST 25336.

Cylinder 1-50 according to GOST 1770.

Liquid glass thermometer with a temperature measurement range from 0°C to 100°C and a division value of 1°C according to GOST 28498.

GOST 2405.

Funnel VD-1-50 (100) XC according to GOST 25336.

Pipettes 6(7)-1-5(10) according to GOST 29227.

GOST 25336.

Flask SPT-250 or SPT according to GOST 25336.

Distilled water according to GOST 6709.

Sodium chloride according to GOST 4233, saturated solution.

Chloroform according to GOST 20015 or medical.

Methanol-poison according to GOST 6995.

Diethyl phthalate.

Bath water.

It is allowed to use equipment and measuring instruments with similar technical and metrological characteristics, as well as reagents of a quality not lower than those specified in this standard.

6.7.2.2 To perform the test, pour 18 ml of distilled water into the separating funnel using a cylinder and add 10 ml of the perfume liquid to be analyzed, taken from a pre-weighed vial, with a pipette.

The bottle with the remaining liquid is weighed and the mass of the perfume liquid taken for testing is determined by the difference in weights. The weighing result in grams is recorded to the third decimal place.

Then, 10 ml of chloroform is added to the separating funnel using a cylinder, shaken, and the contents are allowed to settle until the layers are completely separated. If an emulsion forms, add a few drops of brine.

From 0.5 to 0.6 cm of diethyl phthalate is poured into the flask with a pipette, the flask is weighed on a balance (the results of all weighings are recorded in grams to the third decimal place), then the lower layer is poured into it from a separating funnel.

The aqueous layer is extracted twice with fresh portions of 5 ml of chloroform, the organic extracts are combined with the contents of the flask, 5 ml of methanol are added thereto, after which the resulting mixture is shaken.

An apparatus is assembled, consisting of a flask with combined extracts, a nozzle, a thermometer for measuring temperature in vapors, a descending refrigerator, an allonge, test tubes, and in a water bath with a temperature of 85 ° C to 90 ° C at atmospheric pressure, solvents are distilled off from the flask at a temperature in vapors from 53°С to 59°С.

After the end of the distillation of the bulk of the solvents, which is fixed by a decrease in the temperature in the vapors, the flask is connected to the pump with the help of a transition and a safety bottle. The vacuum pressure is set from 4.0 to 6.7 kPa (from 0.040 to 0.068 kgf / cm or from 30 to 50 mm Hg) and the remaining solvents are sucked off in a water bath at a temperature of 40 ° C for 20 minutes. The cooled flask is weighed, and then, covered with a stopper, lowered into a bath with a temperature of 60°C to 70°C, suction is repeated at the same vacuum for 5 minutes, after which it is weighed. Suction and weighing are repeated until the difference between weighings is no more than 0.005 g.

6.7.2.3 Handling results

calculated to the second decimal place, followed by rounding to the first decimal place.

6.7.3 Determination of the sum of mass fractions of fragrant substances by the gravimetric method in perfumery liquids with a mass fraction of water introduced according to the recipe, not more than 10%.

6.7.3.1 Apparatus and reagents

General purpose laboratory scales of the 2nd accuracy class with the highest weighing limit of 200 g according to GOST 24104.

Flask K-1-25-14/23 TC according to GOST 25336.

Test tube P-2-25-14/23 according to GOST 1770.

Refrigerator KhPT-2-400-29/23 XC according to GOST 25336.

Alonge AIO-14 / 23-14 / 23-60 TC according to GOST 25336.

Nozzle H1-14/23-14/23-14/23 TC according to GOST 25336.

Transition P10-14 / 23-14 / 23 TC according to GOST 25336.

Pipettes 6(7)-1-5(10) according to GOST 29227.

Liquid glass thermometer with a temperature measurement range from 0°C to 100°C and a division value of 1°C according to GOST 28498.

Vacuum gauge VO, upper measurement limit 0.1 MPa (1 kgf/cm), accuracy class 0.25 according to GOST 2405.

Vacuum or water jet pump according to GOST 25336.

Stopwatch with a division value of 0.2 s.

Flask SPT-25 or SPT according to GOST 25336.

Distilled water according to GOST 6709.

Diethyl phthalate.

Technical cyclohexane according to GOST 14198.

Bath water.

6.7.3.2 To carry out the test, 1 ml of diethyl phthalate is poured into the flask with a pipette, the flask is weighed (the results of all weighings are recorded in grams to the third decimal place), 5 ml of the analyzed perfume liquid is poured into it with a pipette, weighed again, and then poured with a 10 ml pipette cyclohexane.

When analyzing perfumes with a sum of mass fractions of fragrant substances of more than 15%, 2 cm of diethyl phthalate and 2.5 cm of perfume are poured into the flask.

A device is assembled, consisting of a flask with the analyzed liquid, a nozzle, a thermometer for measuring temperature in vapors, a descending refrigerator, an alonge, and test tubes. In a water bath at a temperature of 88°C to 90°C at atmospheric pressure, 10 cm of an azeotropic mixture of alcohol, water and cyclohexane are distilled off at a temperature in vapors from 60°C to 65°C.

The flask is connected to the pump with the help of a transition and a safety flask, immersed in a bath with a temperature of 99 ° C to 100 ° C for 30 s, and then, removing it from the bath, turn on the pump, set the vacuum pressure from 4.0 to 6.7 kPa ( from 0.040 to 0.068 kgf/cm or from 30 to 50 mm Hg) and the remaining solvents are sucked off for 5 minutes.

Suction and weighing are repeated until the difference between weighings is no more than 0.005 g.

6.7.3.3 Handling results

The sum of the mass fractions of fragrant substances,%, is calculated by the formula

where is the mass of the flask with the residue after distillation of the solvents, g;

- weight of the flask with diethyl phthalate, g;

- mass of a sample of perfume liquid, g.

calculated to the second decimal place, followed by rounding to the first decimal place.

For the final test result, the arithmetic mean of the results of two parallel measurements is taken, the allowable discrepancy between which should not exceed 0.5%; permissible total measurement error ±0.5% with a probability of 0.95.

6.7.4 Determination of the sum of mass fractions of fragrant substances (up to 5%) in colognes and fragrant waters by volumetric method.

The method is based on the extraction of aromatic substances from perfume liquids with toluene or xylene.
GOST 28498
Methyl orange, solution with a mass fraction of 0.1%.

6.7.4.2 To carry out the test, 10 ml of cologne or fragrant water is pipetted into a dry cylinder fixed in a stand, 5 ml of toluene or xylene and 20 ml of distilled water with a temperature of 80 ° C to 85 ° C or 20 ml of saline solution with a temperature of from 70°C to 75°C.

Water is added to colognes containing up to 25% water; to colognes containing from 26% to 35% water - 10% saline solution; to colognes containing more than 36% water, and fragrant waters - 15% sodium chloride solution.

The cylinder, avoiding shaking, is rotated between the palms for 30-40 s, kept at room temperature for 30 to 40 minutes. The measurement of the volume of the toluene or xylene extract is carried out along the lower meniscus. If the delamination line is not clear, add 2-3 drops of methyl orange solution.

6.7.4.3 Handling results

The sum of the mass fractions of fragrant substances,%, is calculated by the formula

where is the volume of toluene or xylene extract, cm;

- volume of toluene or xylene, cm;

- volume of perfume liquid, cm;

- the ratio of the density of the composition to the density of cologne or fragrant water is taken equal to one.

calculated to the second decimal place, followed by rounding to the first decimal place.

For the final test result, the arithmetic mean of the results of two parallel measurements is taken, the allowable discrepancy between which should not exceed 0.5%; permissible total measurement error ±0.5% with a probability of 0.95.

6.8 Determination of microbiological purity

Microbiological indicators are determined according to the methods established in the state that has adopted the standard.

6.9 Determination of the mass fraction of lead

The mass fraction of lead is determined according to GOST 31676 or according to GOST 26932 with sample preparation according to GOST 26929-94 (section 3 or 4).

It is allowed to use the atomic absorption method according to GOST 30178 or the stripping voltammetry method according to the methods approved in the prescribed manner in the territory of the state that adopted the standard to determine the mass fraction of lead.
GOST 31676.

GOST 26927 with sample preparation in accordance with GOST 31676 or GOST 26929-94 (section 3 or 4).

It is allowed to use the method of stripping voltammetry to determine the mass fraction of mercury according to the methods approved in the prescribed manner in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

6.12 Determination of toxicological and clinical and laboratory indicators according to the methods approved in the prescribed manner in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.

7 Transport and storage

7.1 Transportation and storage of liquid perfume products - according to GOST 27429.

7.2 The expiration date for each specific name of liquid perfume products is established by the manufacturer in the technical document.

Annex A (informative). Index of perfume liquid terms

Annex A
(reference)

An index of terms for perfume liquids is given in Table A.1.


Table A.1

Bibliography

Electronic text of the document
prepared by Kodeks JSC and verified against:
official publication
Moscow: Standartinform, 2019

Fortitude- far from the last important characteristic of a perfume product. We all want our favorite smell stay on the skin for as long as possible. But at the same time, it is far from easy to guess in advance whether the spirits will justify our hopes. This is something that cannot be judged by appearance bottle or fragrance of perfume. More precisely, the aroma can tell something to a true connoisseur and connoisseur, but for this you need to have some knowledge. Therefore, the persistence or instability of spirits usually comes as a surprise to us.

First of all the persistence and saturation of the smell depends on the concentration of odorous substances. Any perfume consists of a perfume composition - a mixture essential oils and other aromatic components - as well as a solvent. The solvent is usually alcohol, occasionally water or oil. The ratio of ingredients in different perfume products is far from the same, the content of odorous substances varies over a very wide range - from 1 to 30%. On this basis, perfumery is usually divided into several classes:

Actually perfume(Parfum) - the most concentrated and most expensive type of perfumery products. The content of essential oils in them is 18-30%. It is believed that the smell of perfume can last for 5-10 hours. However, perfume houses rarely release perfumes in this format.

perfumed water(Eau de parfum) contains 10-20% aromatics. It will surround you with a fragrant cloud for the next 3-5 hours.

Eau de Toilette(Eau de toilette) - relatively inexpensive, and therefore the most common type of perfumery products. It contains only 4-10% perfume composition and lasts 2-3 hours.

Cologne(Eau de cologne) is even less persistent and contains only a couple percent of essential oils. But it should be noted that in the US the terminology is slightly different. American-made colognes correspond in concentration to eau de toilette or even eau de parfum.

The lack of concentration can be fully compensated by the amount of fragrant liquid. Even eau de toilette will retain its scent for many hours if perfumed enough. But at the same time, the smell may be too rich and harsh, so it’s better to carry a bottle with you and refresh the fading aroma from time to time.

But perfume composition also affects the durability of perfume, since different aromatic substances have different degrees of volatility. Some evaporate intensively, forming a strong plume, and dissipate very quickly. Others evaporate slowly, they have a not very intense smell that stays close to the body, but lingers on the skin for a long time. Therefore, perfumes change their smell over time, and for the same reason, those compositions that consist mainly of highly volatile components are unstable.

Fading away very quickly citrus, fruity aromas. Floral scents are a little more persistent. Woody, resinous components such as sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver, incense last much longer. Odorants of animal origin have a very high resistance: musk and amber, beaver stream, civet. They not only retain the smell themselves for a long time, but are also fixatives, i.e. slow down the evaporation of other aromatic components. However, animalistic ingredients are added to perfumes in very small quantities, since in concentrated form they have a sharp and far from pleasant smell, and they are extremely expensive. Generally speaking, fragrances that are perceived as light, transparent usually do not have much staying power. But heavy, stuffy, warm oriental compositions are much more stable.

Affects the persistence of the aroma and individual characteristics skin. But everything is not as mysterious and unpredictable as it seems at first glance. The main factor in this case is oily skin. The natural secretion of the sebaceous glands delays the evaporation of odorous substances, so the perfume lasts longer on oily skin than on dry skin. For a similar reason oil perfume more persistent than alcohol-based and especially water-based perfumes.

The durability of perfumery is not the same in different time year, in different weather. The colder it is around, the slower the volatile substances evaporate. Perfume also evaporates from the skin and clothes at different speeds. On fabric and hair, the fragrance lasts much longer than on the body, however, it sounds a little different.

Lack of longevity is the most common complaint that consumers make about perfumes. But let's not forget that you yourself are unlikely to be able to objectively assess the stability of the aroma. Olfactory receptors are arranged in such a way that we react to changes in the concentration of odorous substances around us, but we simply stop noticing smells that we are surrounded by for a long time.

In fact, according to durability, perfumes are divided into several types - “oriental”, “floral” and “chypre”. The most persistent of the latter, which include the well-known Miss Dior (all Dior products, in principle, last a long time), Femme, Paloma Picasso, Magie Noire and others. The smells of the floral series disappear faster - Chanel No. 5, Charlie, Poison and the vast majority of modern fragrances that have recently appeared on our shelves.

And, finally, the lightest ones - "oriental" - are practically unknown to the domestic buyer, who is used to smelling "from the heart". In the West, it is believed that perfume is appropriate only in the evening, and during the day it is better to use eau de parfum or light perfume. A young girl does not need strong fragrances at all - she should smell of freshness and something light and elusive. It is these criteria that the perfumes of the Oriental series meet, which most often cause indignation of our customers.

Genuinely French are Klima, Turbulence, Zhe O’ze, beloved by our mothers, which have recently received numerous complaints from domestic customers: they say that their smell, supposedly, has changed a lot, and for the worse. However, whether this is true or not, it is no longer possible to verify, since the above-mentioned goods are now produced only for Russia and neighboring countries, and it is impossible to compare with what was produced for the whole world. Other, less powerful firms, were completely limited to the release of only the most popular versions of their products. For example, the perfume "Mystery" has been out of production for about five years, but for our clients, the company "Roshas" continues to produce eau de toilette and eau de parfum in 50 ml bottles.

It is theoretically possible to return disliked spirits, but in practice it is extremely difficult. After all, as a rule, perfumery that entered the country legally is fully protected by quality certificates, and if you don’t like it, then these are your difficulties. It is reckless to trust the words of the seller completely, because, firstly, everyone has different tastes, and secondly, durability is an individual concept: the same brand of perfume can last a day on one person, and two hours on another. In order not to make a mistake in choosing, it is better to put the perfume you like to the test: “wear” the smell for about 10-12 hours, for example, on the wrist - for this, in each company store or sections available free samples. Experts also advise to wash off the applied fragrance with water - with really persistent spirits this is not so easy to do.

It is useful to arrange a similar exam for your favorite spirits if you buy them in small shops or in the market. There is a high probability of buying a fake, which, a couple of hours after application, will begin to give off something disgusting. Why? As you know, the smell of real French perfume has three levels. The first is captured immediately, the second appears after a few minutes, and the third - the base - after a couple of hours. "Samopalshchiki" achieve similarity only level - the "top note" of the smell. Therefore, when weathered, such spirits often show themselves far from the best side and, instead of attracting individuals of the opposite sex, they scare them away.

The composition of all perfumes is the same. It is made from a concentrate (perfume composition), alcohol and water, the difference is in proportions.

The most expensive and persistent are perfumes. They usually contain 20-35% of the perfume composition dissolved in 90% alcohol plus a fixative. Perfumes contain the most expensive and valuable natural essential oils and synthetic fragrances.

Eau de Parfum - daytime perfume, "spirit of perfume", the next most concentrated type of perfumery products - 5-25% concentrate dissolved in 90% alcohol.

Toilet water - 6-15% concentrate and 85% alcohol.

Cologne - 6% perfume composition in 70-80% alcohol. This type of perfume is produced for men.

The creation of fragrances, like any other creative activity, is the fruit of inspiration and many impressions.

One perfume formula contains, on average, about a hundred elements, both natural and synthetic. And it is their dosage, their combination with each other that leads to a certain result, the desired composition, which, as a rule, requires great amount samples

The quality of perfume depends on the quality of raw materials used. This determines the difference between a prestigious brand, which uses mainly natural and high-quality components from mass-market products, where the use of such components is impossible due to the high price.

Odor criteria: Persistence; Fortress; Plume; Recognizability, the ability to recognize; Associate the smell with the company; With style.

The strength of the smell is determined by the % content of the perfume composition.

The persistence of the odor depends not only on the amount of concentrate, but also on the type of odor.

Fresh, citrus, herbal, and floral scents are less persistent than oriental, vanilla, amber, and musky scents. To enhance your favorite smell, you need to use products of the same perfume and cosmetic series.

The nature of the spirits manifests itself slowly, in several stages.

The terms: "INITIAL (head) note", "HEART (middle)" note, "END (base) note" - mean the phases of opening the bouquet.

Top note appears within the first 15 minutes. evaporation. It creates the first, spontaneous impression of perfume. It is created by the most volatile components of the composition: citrus, herbal, aldehyde, green, ozone aromas.

Heart note- the core of the perfume, determines the type of smell. It opens after the initial note and lasts for 3-4 hours. At this time, all the main aromas of the composition appear: fruity, floral, spicy, woody, animal, etc.

end note felt in the final stage of evaporation and lasts 4-5 hours. Animal, musky, vanilla, amber smells appear in it, they provide the strength and durability of the perfume. Visually, the fragrance can be imagined in the shape of a triangle, and thus you can see what role certain notes play at each stage of the fragrance development.

Types of odors:

– BITTER: geranium, lemon, mandarin, peony, lilac, orange blossom (orange blossom).

– FINE: acacia, heliotrope, iris, levkoy, magnolia, mimosa, nasturtium, peony, rose.

– SWEET: acacia, mandarin, tuberose, vanilla.

– GREEN: carnation, violet (leaves), narcissus, galbanum (resin), myrrh.

– WARM: acacia, sweet pea, peach, sandalwood, tuberose, honeysuckle, animal scents.

– DENSE, HEAVY: carnation, frankincense, lily, patchouli, tuberose, frankincense.

– SPICY: jasmine, patchouli, cyclamen, cinnamon, clove, vetiver (roots), frankincense.

- SMELL OF SKIN, TOBACCO is obtained from immortelle.

– ANIMAL scents: Ambergris iron the sperm whale releases a secret that gives a lively, warm aroma, with notes of the sea coast, with hints of the smell of tea. It is used to give durability, as a fixative.

To get one or another type of smell in the perfume industry, fragrant substances are used:

Alcohol used in perfumery as a solvent for fragrant substances and as a disinfectant and refreshing agent in colognes and fragrant waters. For the production of perfumery products, rectified ethyl alcohol of the highest purity is used, with a strength of 96.2 °.

Water It is mainly used to dilute alcohol to the desired concentration and must comply with the drinking water standard.

Dyes are used in cases where the perfume liquid needs to be given a certain color. For this purpose, organic dyes are used, soluble in alcohol and water.

The range of perfumery products includes perfumes, colognes, fragrant waters and perfume sets.

Perfume. All types of perfumes can be grouped according to the following criteria: consistency, the nature of the smell, the content of the composition, the persistence of the smell, the purpose and place of production.

By consistency perfumes come in liquid, solid and powder forms.

liquid perfume are pleasantly smelling alcoholic or water-alcohol solutions of perfume compositions with the smell of a flower or fantasy direction and are used as a flavoring agent.

solid perfume- This is a waxy mass, most often in the form of a pencil, saturated with a perfume composition and painted in a certain color. Used for rubbing the skin.

powdered perfume- These are dried plants, ground into powder and perfumed with a perfume composition. Used to perfume clothes.

By the nature of the smell, perfumes are floral, with the smell of a flower (“Jasmine”, “Lilac”, “Violet”, etc.), and fantasy, combining several smells of flowers or smells that are not found in nature (“East”, “ Manon, etc.).

Extra group perfumes contain at least 10% of the perfume composition (by weight of the perfume), and the odor must last at least 60 hours.

Group A perfumes are perfumes containing, as a rule, at least 10% of the composition and having an odor persistence of at least 40 hours.

Perfume groups extra and A are available in artistically designed cases and boxes.

Group B perfumes include perfumes containing at least 5% of the composition and not more than 10% of water, and have a odor resistance of at least 30 hours.

Group B perfumes are mainly floral perfumes containing at least 5% composition and 30% water. Persistence of smell not less than 30 hours.

Spirits of groups B and C are produced in cases and without cases.

By appointment perfumes are usually divided into women's and men's.

Colognes. These are water-alcohol solutions of perfume compositions with the smell of a flower or fantasy direction.

Colognes are used as hygienic, refreshing and flavoring agents.

Depending on the composition, colognes are divided into two groups: floral and hygienic,

Floral colognes are used as a hygienic and flavoring agent. The hygienic value of colognes lies in the disinfecting and refreshing effect of alcohol and aromatic substances.

The group of floral colognes also includes colognes with a fantasy scent.

Colognes, like perfumes, according to the content of the composition (depending on quality) are divided into four groups: extra, A, B and C.

The colognes of the extra group include colognes of the highest quality, containing from 3 to 5% of the composition. Odor resistance for at least 24 hours. Available in artistically designed cases and boxes.

Group A colognes include colognes containing from 3 to 5% of the composition. Odor persistence for at least 24 hours.

Group B colognes include colognes containing from 3 to 4% of the composition. The odor resistance is not standardized.

Group B colognes include colognes containing 2 to 3% of the composition. The odor resistance is not standardized.

Colognes of groups A, B and C are produced in a variety of cases and without them.

Hygiene colognes differ in that they are used only for hygienic purposes. Their smell should be pleasant, but not strong and not particularly persistent. The content of the composition is up to 2%, and the composition of hygienic colognes includes citrus essential oils. The strength of alcohol does not exceed 60%.

Fragrant waters. These are water-alcohol solutions of compositions with a smell of the flower and fantasy direction.

Fragrant waters include "Birch Water" (for refreshing the skin), "Forest Water" with the smell of pine needles (for freshening the air in the room), " Pink water"(for face and body skin care)," Cinchona water "(for hair care), etc.

The main difference between these toilet water and perfume is the amount of perfume extract contained in them. In toilet water, the concentration is 5-20%, in eau de parfum (or toilet perfume) - 10-30%, and in perfume - 20-40%. The higher the concentration, the greater the saturation and the better the durability of the perfume. It should be noted that different perfume houses have the same category of perfume with different concentrations, but within the same brand the principle will always be true that eau de toilette has the lowest concentration, and perfume the highest.

QUESTIONS FOR CONSOLIDATION

1. Describe the spirits.

2. By what criteria are perfumes classified?

3. How are perfumes different from eau de toilette?

4. What are "notes"?

5. What kinds of smells do you know?

6. Describe the types of colognes.

The issue of durability is one of the most popular among perfume buyers. But for perfumers this question is not decisive. After all, you can’t call a chef the best just because he cooks the most high-calorie dishes, and in perfumery, the best perfumer is determined not based on the durability of the aroma.

Before studying the issue of durability, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video from Guru Elina Arsenyeva:

Classification of perfumes by durability

Longevity depends on the types of perfume used. Consider the main types:

• - the most resistant and expensive type of perfumery. The concentration of essential oils from 20% or more, dissolved in almost pure alcohol (96%). Longevity about 6 hours
• - the most popular type of perfumery. The concentration is about 10%. Longevity is about 4 hours.
• - a light type of perfume. The concentration is about 4-5%. Can be used several times a day. Ideal for summer time. Durability 2-3 hours.
• - Concentration 1-2%. Durability no more than an hour.
• - Less than 1%. Lasts less than an hour.

Persistence of fakes and originals of perfume

There is an established myth among buyers that originals are different from fakes. resilience. This is far from true!

The original differs from the fake in the first place by the sound of the aroma, durability has nothing to do with it! This is the most popular trick of those who sell fakes.

The first thing you hear about a fake is: "The replica is the same fragrance, but it has 4 hours of durability, instead of 8 hours like the original." This is far from true! Fakes are revealed with one single note, without beginning, intrigue and climax. They do not change during the day, which cannot be said about the high-quality original fragrance.

Don't need to be confused fragrance sound with tenacity.

What determines the durability of the original fragrance?

1. Prolonged shaking and external impact

During transportation, the perfume may be exposed to the sun or carried in good weather. And aromas are recommended to be stored in a dry, dark place and not subjected to prolonged shaking. Therefore, immediately after receiving perfumes, especially when shipping across Russia, it is necessary to put the perfume in a dark, cool place and let the composition "get into shape" for 1-2 days. Especially in summer and winter time when temperature fluctuations are very significant. At a minimum, perfume must reach room temperature, only after that it can be sprayed.

Those who are fond of vintage perfumes know this firsthand. important fact. There are special refrigerators in which vintage fragrances are placed for 2-3 weeks so that they gain the desired shape.

2. The chemistry of your skin

People are unique not only externally: the chemical composition and processes that occur inside each person are unique. This, of course, also affects our skin, namely temperature, acidity and fat content.

In the perfume world, there are 2 types of skin: "cold" and "hot".

• With "hot skin" aromas appear brighter and richer, but than brighter flavor, the faster it erodes, which means less durability. More often this type of skin is in people who like to open the window and are very sensitive to stuffiness in the room.
• From the "cold skin" perfume disappears longer, but it also opens less brightly. More often this type of skin is in freezing people - they are always cold, they are sensitive to drafts. These are the people who close the windows and turn off the air conditioner.

There is a little trick to determining your skin type. These are cheap plastic rings that define your mood. They are designed in such a way that, depending on the temperature of your skin, they are painted in different colors. The darker the ring, the colder your skin.

3. Environment and external factors may increase or decrease the persistence of the fragrance

Sun, frost and humidity. The more aggressive the environment, the faster the aroma disappears. Some buyers find that the fragrance fades more slowly in winter (the cold helps to contain it). This is not true. This is due to the fact that in winter people dress warmer, when moving, many times more heat is released, accumulated under your clothes.

Pay attention to how the fragrance opens up in rain, sun, frost or just a comfortable cloudy day. Durability will vary.

4. Different production batches of fragrance

Especially if we are talking about natural ingredients that are characteristic of expensive perfumes. Only fragrances from 1 batch will have the same and 99% similarity of aroma.

Why is it so? External conditions environment various. Jasmine harvested in 2013 will be different from jasmine in 2016 because rainfall, average temperature and thousands of other factors were completely different. Exactly how jasmine grown in the wild will differ from jasmine grown in breeding conditions.

Now the mass market perfumery is being transferred to artificial substitutes for aromatic extracts. Yes, this leads to predictability of the fragrance and a uniform quality, but in the opinion of professional perfumers, this leads to a loss of magic and personality of the fragrance. Therefore, when buying a perfume made from natural ingredients, be prepared for the fact that the fragrance you like in a new version can open up completely differently on your skin than your old bottle bought earlier.

Then a batch made from one set of ingredients is marked with a batch code. The next batch may already be made with different ingredients, different year and different quality. The only way to get the same quality is to buy a perfume from the same batch.

5. Storage conditions violated

Unfortunately, almost no online store is able to 100% control the storage conditions of the goods from the supplier, because. supplier guarantees ideal conditions storage only legally, by contract. How this happens in practice is not known. Stores check the goods only upon acceptance, according to indirect signs: burnt packaging or print color. Unfortunately, there are no other methods of verification.

That is why our store has . Indeed, in order to make a claim to the supplier, the store needs legal grounds for the fact that the perfume is of poor quality. Without physical evidence, this is impossible. After all, before selling, we cannot open the package and check its quality, in this case you will receive an unattractive product.

In case of problems, our store studies the behavior of the supplier, if he takes action, we continue to cooperate with him, if the supplier does not solve quality problems, we stop cooperation.

6. Quality deterioration in production

This applies to a greater extent to the mass market of perfumery, which is produced primarily for the sake of earning. As soon as a fragrance gains popularity, manufacturers look for cheaper raw materials, reducing production costs. Here, unfortunately, retailers are powerless, because. we only resell perfumes and cannot influence production.

The only effective measure is to stop buying a fragrance after its quality has declined. Only voting with a wallet helps to correct the quality of any fragrance. Since there is no better tone for the manufacturer than a decrease in sales. Before buying any perfume, we recommend that you study reviews on perfume forums, even for fragrances that you know "from and to".

7. Fragrance fatigue

If you use the same fragrance for a long time, your sense of smell gets used to it so much that you stop feeling it on yourself. In this case, it is better to stop using the fragrance for 2-3 weeks and return to it later. Or ask someone close to you to describe how they feel about the scent on you.

But it is better not to ask those with whom you live in 1 apartment and see each other daily, because. they, too, could become addicted to your scent.

This is very dangerous, because You can start to overdo it with the amount of perfume. You will not feel anything, and those around you will go crazy and may even cough. Few people can admit this, more often those around them simply endure and look askance.

How to determine the durability of perfumes at home?

As you understand, it is incorrect to measure the durability of the aroma in everyday life, because. no two days are the same. If you want to compare the durability of perfumes in your collection, you can do it like this:

• Take a blank sheet of A4;
• Put the name of the perfume on each strip;
• Spray your perfume on the strip;
• Record the spray time on the leaflet;
• With a certain frequency, for example, once every 20 minutes, put a tick on the strip until the fragrance goes out completely;
• How many ticks the perfume scored - multiply by the frequency of the check. For example, 30 ticks every 20 minutes means that the fragrance lasts 600 minutes or 10 hours.

What persistent fragrances to buy?

To go to the catalog, select a category: