On October 7, new rules for registering cars come into force in Russia. For the first time, it will be possible to register cars with electronic vehicle passports with the traffic police: such cars, as Kommersant found out, will soon be on sale at dealerships. The new order of the Ministry of Internal Affairs also greatly simplifies the installation of a new engine in a car and doubles the possible period of storage of license plates in the traffic police.

Order of the Ministry of Internal Affairs No. 399 dated June 26 contains a number of important innovations for motorists. So, for the first time, it becomes possible to register a car for which an electronic vehicle passport (EPTS) is issued. Until now, the main document for a car was a paper TCP (issued by customs, a manufacturer or a dealer). Since 2014, Russia, Belarus and Kazakhstan have begun preparations for the transition to electronic passports, in the Russian Federation, Electronic Passport JSC (part of the Rostec Group of Companies) was created. Unlike the paper counterpart, the EPTS also stores information about technical inspection, OSAGO, car pledge restrictions, etc.

EPTS in the Russian Federation have already received 14 cars (now they can be registered). In October, Avtospetstsentr Group of Companies will begin a "pilot" for issuing electronic passports for Mazda at one of the dealerships, the company told Kommersant. Rolf promised that within two to four weeks, one car with EPTS would appear in the test park of Hyundai dealerships (two in St. Petersburg and four in Moscow). “We are fully prepared for the introduction of electronic passports,” Vladimir Popov, head of the Favorit Motors Group of Companies, told Kommersant. “This will simplify the document flow and increase the speed of car registration.” Renault is already in the "active testing of the ePassport system". The French company intended to issue EPTS in July, says a Kommersant source on the market, but postponed the deadline. “Customers from the regions are afraid of innovation, in particular, because possible problems when registering cars, ”the interlocutor of Kommersant explains. In one of the concerns, Kommersant was told that many automakers already have the technical capabilities to use EPTS, but they do not see "obvious preferences from the introduction of an electronic passport."

Note that car companies are not yet required to issue electronic passports for new cars, but from November 1, 2019, this will become an obligation. “Car companies need to start switching to electronic passports now,” Boris Ionov, director of the department of scientific and technical activities of Electronic Passport JSC, explained to Kommersant. and commercial names. For importers, the procedures associated with filling out customs declarations are changing. Everything needs to be done beforehand." Previously issued paper titles continue to be valid, they do not need to be changed, the transition to electronic passports for drivers is voluntary.

Order No. 399 also simplifies the installation of a new engine in a car. Often, car owners, instead of overhauling the motor, buy a used one in good condition and with a guarantee (the so-called contract engines). Previously, the question often arose whether it was necessary to register the installation of a new motor in the traffic police. They could demand from the driver a contract of sale for the motor. This is illegal, but it was not clearly described by the regulation, the problem has now been fixed. The car owner does not need to notify anyone about the installation of the engine. Buyers of used cars need to be careful: a car with a problematic engine (for example, is wanted) will not be registered. Experts recommend not to transfer money for the car until the registration of documents is completed.

The new order also contains a number of technical but important clarifications. It will be possible to register a car not only with a passport, but also with a temporary identity card (issued to replace a lost passport). It will be possible to store numbers taken from an old car in the traffic police department for a year (until now, the maximum period was 180 days). The obligation of inspectors to enter into the traffic police information system all data on the changed marking of a car (including scans of documents and photographs) has been fixed. It's about about cases when one of the numbers on the body is rusted and is not readable, but during the examination it was established that there was no crime.

Ivan Buranov, Olga Nikitina

Drawings by N. Muller

You can collect not only stamps, porcelain, autographs, match and wine labels, you can also collect words.
As a costume designer, I have always been interested in words related to costumes. This interest has been around for a long time. As a student of GITIS, I was doing my term paper “Theatrical costume in the theaters of Count N. P. Sheremetev” and suddenly read: “... the dresses were made of stamed”. But what is it? Stamed became the first "copy" of my collection. But reading fiction, we quite often come across relic words, the meanings of which we sometimes do not know or know approximately.
Fashion has always been “capricious and windy”, one fashion, one name was replaced by another fashion, other names. Old words were either forgotten or lost their original meaning. Perhaps few now can imagine dresses made of grand ramage material or the color of the "spider plotting a crime", and in the 19th century such dresses were fashionable.

Dictionary sections:

fabrics
Women's clothing
Men's clothing
Shoes, hats, bags, etc.
Costume details, underdress
National costume (Kyrgyz, Georgian)

fabrics 1

“They took a lot of pretty girls, and with them so much gold, colored fabrics and precious axamite.”
"The Tale of Igor's Campaign".

AKSAMIT. This velvet fabric got its name from the examiton production technique - a fabric prepared in 6 threads.
Several types of this fabric were known: smooth, looped, sheared. It was used to make expensive clothes and for furniture upholstery.
In ancient Rus', it was one of the most expensive and beloved fabrics. From the 10th to the 13th century, Byzantium was its only supplier. But the Byzantine Aksamites did not reach us, the technique for making them was forgotten by the 15th century, but the name was retained. The Venetian Aksamites of the 16th-17th centuries have come down to us.
The great demand for axamite in Rus' in the 16th-17th centuries and its high cost caused increased imitation. Russian craftswomen successfully imitated the rich patterns and loops of axamite. By the 70s of the 18th century, the fashion for axamite had passed and the import of fabric into Russia had ceased.

“Why on earth are you dressed up in a woolen dress today! I could have walked around in barege tonight.”
A. Chekhov. "Before the wedding".

BAREGE- inexpensive thin, light half-woolen or half-silk fabric from tightly twisted yarn. It got its name from the city of Barege, at the foot of the Pyrenees, the place where this fabric was first made by hand and used to make peasant clothes.

"...and a chiton of precious sargon linen of such a brilliant golden color that the clothes seemed to be woven from the sun's rays"...
A. Kuprin. Shulamith.

WISSON- expensive, very light, transparent fabric. In Greece, Rome, Phoenicia, Egypt, it was used to make clothes for kings and courtiers. The mummy of the pharaohs, according to Herodotus, was wrapped in linen bandages.

“Sofya Nikolaevna got up with liveliness, took from the tray and brought to her father-in-law a piece of the finest English cloth and a camisole from a silver eyelet, all richly embroidered ...”

EYE- silk fabric with gold or silver weft. Difficult to work out, had a large pattern depicting flowers or geometric patterns. Glazet was of several varieties. Close to brocade, it was used for sewing camisoles and theatrical costumes. Another variety was used for the manufacture of church robes, coffin lining.

“... yes, three grogrons are thirteen, grodenaplevs, and grodafriks ...”
A. Ostrovsky. "We will count our people."

"... in a silk handkerchief with golden herbs on her head."
S. Aksakov. "Family Chronicle".

GRO- the name of the French very dense silk fabrics. In the tenth years of the 19th century, when the fashion for transparent, light materials passed, dense silk fabrics came into use. Gro-gro - silk fabric, dense, heavy; gros de pearl - silk fabric of gray-pearl color, gros de tour - the fabric got its name from the city of Tours, where it first began to be made. In Russia, it was called a set. Gros de napol - dense silk fabric, quite light, also got its name from the city of Naples, where it was made.

“One was dressed in a luxurious bodice from a lady; embroidered with gold that has lost its luster, and a simple canvas skirt.
P. Merimee. "Chronicle of the times of Charles X".

LADY- silk fabric, on a smooth background of which colored patterns are woven, more often a shiny pattern on a matte background. Now such a fabric is called Damascus.

"Women in rags, striped scarves with children in their arms ... stood near the porch."
L. Tolstoy. "Childhood".

MEAL- cheap coarse linen fabric, often blue-striped. The fabric was named after the merchant Zatrapezny, at whose manufactories in Yaroslavl it was produced.

"... white Kazimir pantaloons with spots, which were once stretched over the legs of Ivan Nikiforovach and which can now only be pulled over his fingers."
N. Gogol. "The Tale of how Ivan Ivanovich quarreled with Ivan Nikiforovich."

KAZIMIR- semi wool fabric, light cloth or semi-finished, with an oblique thread. Casimir was fashionable at the end of the 18th century. Tailcoats, uniform dresses, pantaloons were sewn from it. The fabric was smooth and striped. The striped Casimir at the beginning of the 19th century was no longer fashionable.

“... and looked with annoyance at the wives and daughters of the Dutch skippers, who were knitting their stockings in canine skirts and red blouses ...”
A. Pushkin. "Arap of Peter the Great".

CANIFAS- thick cotton fabric with a relief pattern, mostly striped. For the first time this fabric appeared in Russia, obviously, under Peter I. At present, it is not being produced.

“A minute later, a fair-haired fellow entered the dining room - in trousers of striped motley, tucked into boots.”

PESTRYAD, OR PESTRYADINA - coarse linen or cotton fabric made of multi-colored threads, usually homespun and very cheap. Sundresses, shirts and aprons were sewn from it. Currently, all kinds of sarpinks and tartans are being developed according to its type.

“At the edge of the forest, leaning against a wet birch, stood an old shepherd, skinny in a tattered sermyagka without a hat.”
A. Chekhov. "Svirel".

sermyaga- rough, often homespun undyed cloth. In the 15th-16th centuries, clothes made of sermyaga were decorated with bright trim. A caftan made of this cloth was also called a sermyaga.

“The catcher came to me in a collarless black cloak, lined with a black stamet like the devil in Robert.
I. Panaev. "Literary Memoirs".

STAMED (stamet) - woolen woven fabric, not very expensive, was usually used for lining. It was made in the XVII-XVIII centuries in Holland. Peasant women sewed sundresses from this fabric, which were called stamedniki. By the end of the 19th century, this fabric had fallen into disuse.

“After all, walking around Moscow in narrow, short trousers and a twin coat with multi-colored sleeves is worse than death.”
A. Ostrovsky. "Last Victim"

TWIN- one-colored half-woolen fabric in the 80s of the XIX century was used to make dresses and outerwear for poor citizens. Not currently produced.

“When she came out to him in a white tarlatan dress, with a branch of small blue flowers in slightly raised hair, he gasped.
I. Turgenev. "Smoke".

TARLATAN- one of the lightest cotton or semi-silk fabrics, had a resemblance to muslin or muslin. It used to be used for dresses, at a later time, heavily starched was used for petticoats.

“General Karlovich pulled out a foulard handkerchief from behind the cuff, wiped his face and neck under the wig.”
A. Tolstoy. "Peter the Great".

FOULARD- a very light silk fabric that went on ladies' dresses and scarves. Was cheap. Foulards were also called neckerchiefs and handkerchiefs.

“Pavel came to class dressed up: in a yellow frieze frock coat and a white tie around his neck.”
M. Saltykov-Shchedrin. "Poshekhonskaya antiquity".

FRIEZE- coarse woolen, fleecy fabric; resembled a bike, outer things were sewn from it. Now out of use.

Women's clothing 2

“She was wearing an adrienne dress made of scarlet grodetur, lined at the seams, in a pattern, with silver galloon ...”
Vyach. Shishkov "Emelyan Pugachev".

Adrienne- a loose dress falling down like a bell. On the back - a wide panel of fabric, fixed in deep folds. The name comes from Terence's play "Adria". In 1703, the French actress Doncourt first appeared in this play in this dress. In England, such a cut of a dress was called kontush or kuntush. Antoine Watteau painted a lot of women in such robes, so the style was called Watteau Pleats. By the second half of the 18th century, the style fell into disuse; such dresses could only be seen on poor townspeople.

“The dress did not crowd anywhere, the lace beret did not go down anywhere ...”
L. Tolstoy "Anna Karenina".

Bertha- a horizontal strip of lace or material in the form of a cape. Already in the 17th century, dresses were trimmed with it, but there was a particularly great passion for this decoration in the 30-40s of the 19th century.

“Every night I see in a dream that I’m dancing the minuvet in a crimson bostrog.”
A. Tolstoy "Peter the Great".

Bostrog (bastrok, bostrog) - Men's jacket Dutch origin. It was the favorite clothing of Peter I. At the Saardam shipyard, he wore a red bostroga. As a uniform for sailors, the bostrog was first mentioned in the maritime charter of 1720. Subsequently, he was replaced by a pea jacket. In the old days in the Tambov and Ryazan provinces, a bostrok is a female epaneche (see explanation below) on a harness.

"A dark woolen burnous, perfectly tailored, sat deftly on her."
N. Nekrasov. "Three countries of the world".

Burnous- a cloak made of white sheep's wool, sleeveless, with a hood, worn by the Bedouins. In France, burnous has been fashionable since 1830. In the forties of the XIX century, they are in vogue everywhere. Burnuses were sewn from wool, velvet, trimmed with embroidery.

“Don’t you dare wear that water proof! Hear! And then I'll tear him to shreds ... "
A. Chekhov "Volodya".

Waterproof- waterproof woman coat. Comes from English water - water, proof - withstand.

"On the porch stands himold woman
In dear sablesoul warmer."
A. Pushkin "The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish."

Soul warmer. In St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Pskov provinces, this ancient Russian women's clothing was sewn without sleeves, with straps. It had a slit in front and a large number of buttons. Behind - fees. Another cut is also known - without collection. They put on a soul warmer over a sundress. Dushegrei were worn by women of all strata - from peasant women to noble noblewomen. Made them warm and cold different material: expensive velvet, satin and simple homespun cloth. In the Nizhny Novgorod province, a dushegreya is a short garment with sleeves.

“About her shoulders was thrown something like a cap of crimson velvet trimmed with sables.”
N. Nekrasov "Three countries of the world."

Epanechka. In the central provinces of the European part of Russia - short clothes with straps. Straight in front, folds in the back. Everyday - from a heel of dyed canvas, festive - from brocade, velvet, silk.

"... the baroness was in a silk dress of an immense circumference, light gray in color, with frills in a crinoline."
F. Dostoevsky "Player".

Crinoline- petticoat made of horsehair, comes from two French words: crin - horsehair, lin - linen. It was invented by a French entrepreneur in the 30s of the XIX century. In the 50s of the XIX century, steel hoops or a whalebone were sewn into the petticoat, but the name was preserved.
The highest flowering of crinolines - 50-60s of the XIX century. By this time they reach enormous sizes.

"Sophia entered, - in a girlish way - bare-haired, in a black velvet summer coat, with sable fur."
A. Tolstoy "Peter the Great".

Letnik. Until the 18th century, the most beloved women's clothing. Long, to the floor, strongly splayed down, these clothes had wide long bell-shaped sleeves, which were sewn up to half. The unstitched lower part hung loosely. They sewed a flyer from expensive monochrome and patterned fabrics, decorated it with embroidery and stones, fastened a small round fur collar. After the reforms of Peter I, the letnik fell into disuse.

“And how can you ride in a travel dress! Why not send to the midwife for her yellow robron!”

Robron- comes from the French robe - dress, ronde - round. An ancient dress with tanks (see explanation below), fashionable in the 18th century, consisted of two dresses - an upper swing with a train and a lower one - a little shorter than the upper one.

“Olga Dmitrievna finally arrived, and, as she was, in a white rotunda, hat and galoshes, she entered the office and fell into an armchair.”
A. Chekhov "Wife".

Rotunda- women's outerwear of Scottish origin, in the form of a large cape, sleeveless. Came into fashion in the 40s of the XIX century and was fashionable until the beginning of the XX century. The name rotunda comes from the Latin word rolundus - round.

“She was ugly and not young, but with a well-preserved high, slightly full figure, and simply and well dressed in a spacious light gray sack with silk embroidery on the collar and sleeves.
A. Kuprin "Helen".

sak has several meanings. The first is a loose women's coat. In the Novgorod, Pskov, Kostroma and Smolensk provinces, sak is a female outerwear on buttons, fitted. They sewed it on cotton wool or tow. Young women and girls wore it on holidays.
This type of clothing was common in the second half of the 19th century.
The second meaning is a travel bag.

"An lie - not all: you still promised me a sable coat."
A. Ostrovsky "Our people - we will settle."

Salop- women's outerwear in the form of a wide long cape with a cape, with slits for the arms or with wide sleeves. They were light, on cotton wool, on fur. The name comes from the English word slop, meaning free, spacious. At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, these clothes went out of fashion.

“Masha: I need to go home ... Where is my hat and talma!”
A. Chekhov "Three Sisters".

Talma- a cape worn by both men and women in the middle of the 19th century. It was in fashion until the beginning of the 20th century. The name was given by the name of the famous French actor Talma, who walked in such a cape.

“Arriving home, grandmother, peeling off the flies from her face and untying the fizhma, announced to her grandfather about her loss ...”
A. Pushkin "The Queen of Spades".

fizhmy- a frame made of whalebone or willow twigs, which was worn under a skirt. They first appeared in England in the 18th century and existed until the 80s of the 18th century. Figma appeared in Russia around 1760.

"Wakes up from sleep,
Gets up early, early
morning dawnwashes himself.
White flywipes off."
Bylina about Alyosha Popovich.

Fly- a scarf, a cloth. It was made of taffeta, linen, embroidered with golden silk, decorated with fringe, tassels. At royal weddings it was a gift to the bride and groom.

"Don't go to the road so often
In an old-fashioned ramshackle.”
S. Yesenin "Letter to mother".

Shushun- old Russian clothes like a sundress, but more closed. In the XV-XVI centuries, the shushun was long, to the floor. Hanging fake sleeves were usually sewn to it.
Shushun was also called a short swinging jacket, a short-brimmed fur coat. The shushun coat survived until the 20th century.

Men's clothing 3

“Not far from us, at two shifted tables by the window, sat a group of old Cossacks with gray beards, in long, old-fashioned caftans, called here aziams.”
V. Korolenko "At the Cossacks".

Azam(or lakes). Ancient peasant men's and women's outerwear - a wide long-brimmed caftan, without gathering. It was usually sewn from homespun camel cloth (Armenian).

“Not far from the tower, wrapped in an almaviva (almavivas were then in great fashion), one could see a figure in which I immediately recognized Tarkhov.”
I. Turgenev "Punin and Baburin".

Almaviva - a wide man's raincoat. Named after one of actors trilogy of Beaumarchais, Count Almaviva. It was in vogue in the first quarter of the 19th century.

“The brothers have finally broken with the old world, they wear Apache shirts, rarely brush their teeth, root for their football team with all their hearts ...”
I. Ilf and E. Petrov "1001 days, or the new Scheherazade."

Apache- a shirt with an open wide collar. It was in fashion from the time of the First World War until the 20s of the XX century. The enthusiasm for this fashion was so great that in those years there was even an apache dance. Apaches were called declassed groups in Paris (robbers, pimps, etc.). Apaches, wanting to emphasize their independence and disdain for the world of the haves, wore shirts with a wide, loose collar, without a tie.

“In the doorway stood a peasant in a new coat, girded with a red sash, with a large beard and an intelligent face, by all indications an elder ...”
I. Turgenev "Calm"

Armenian. In Rus', a special woolen fabric was also called armyak, from which bags for artillery charges were sewn, and a merchant's caftan, which was worn by people engaged in small-scale carting. Armyak - a peasant caftan, uncut at the waist, with a straight back, without gathering, with sleeves sewn into a straight armhole. In the cold and winter time the coat was put on a sheepskin coat, a coat or a short fur coat. Clothing of this cut was worn in many provinces, where it had different names and a slight difference. In the Saratov province, a chapan, in the Olenets province, a chuyka. The Pskov coat had a collar and narrow lapels, it was not deep wrapped. In the Kazan province - Azyam and differed from the Pskov Armenian in that it had a narrow shawl collar, which was covered with other material, more often plush.

“He was dressed as a tambourine landowner, a visitor to horse fairs, in a motley, rather greasy arhaluk, a faded lilac silk tie, a waistcoat with copper buttons and gray pantaloons with huge bells, from under which the tips of uncleaned boots barely peeked out.”
I. Turgenev "Pyotr Petrovich Karataev"

Arkhaluk- clothing similar to a colored wool or silk undershirt, often striped, fastened with hooks.

Men's clothing (continued) 4

"Volodya! Volodya! Ivin! - I shouted, seeing in the window three boys in blue bekeshs with beaver collars.
L. Tolstoy "Childhood".

Bekes- top men's clothing, at the waist, with fees and a slit at the back. It was made on fur or on wadding with a fur or velvet collar. The name "bekesha" comes from the name of the 16th-century Hungarian commander Kaspar Bekesh, the leader of the Hungarian infantry, a participant in the wars waged by Stefan Batory. In the Soviet troops, the bekesha has been used in the uniforms of the highest command personnel since 1926.

"His hand convulsively reached for the pocket of the officer's riding breeches."
I. Kremlev "Bolsheviks".

riding breeches- pants that are narrow at the top and wide at the hips. They are named after the French General Galifet (1830-1909), at whose direction the French cavalrymen were provided with trousers of a special cut. Red riding breeches were awarded to soldiers of the Red Army who especially distinguished themselves in battles during the revolution and civil war.

"Hussar! You are cheerful and carefree
Putting on your red dolman.
M. Lermontov "Hussar".

Dolman, or duloman(Hungarian word), - a hussar uniform, a characteristic feature of which is a chest embroidered with a cord, as well as dorsal seams, sleeves and a neck. In the 17th century, the dolman was introduced to the troops of Western Europe. The dolman appeared in the Russian army in 1741, with the establishment of hussar regiments. For almost a century and a half of its existence, it has changed the cut several times, the number of breast patches (from five to twenty), as well as the number and shape of buttons. In 1917, with the abolition of the hussar regiments, the wearing of dolmans was also canceled.

"Leave him: before dawn, early,
I'll take it out under the coat
And I'll put it at the crossroads.
A. Pushkin "The Stone Guest".

Epancha- a wide long coat. They sewed it from light matter. Epancha was known in Ancient Rus' as early as the 11th century.

“We took off our uniforms, remained in the same camisole and drew our swords.”
A. Pushkin "The Captain's Daughter".

Camisole- a long vest, worn under a caftan over a shirt. It appeared in the 17th century and had sleeves. In the second half of the 17th century, the camisole takes the form of a long vest. A hundred years later, under the influence of English fashion, the camisole is shortened and turned into a short waistcoat.

“A warm winter jacket was put on in the sleeves, and sweat poured from him like a bucket.”
N. Gogol "Taras Bulba".

casing- old Russian clothes, known since the Kievan Rus. Kind of caftan lined with fur, embellished with pearls and lace. They wore it over a zipun. One of the first mentions of the casing in literature is in the Tale of Igor's Campaign. In Ukraine, sheepskin coats were called casings.

“Peter arrived at the prince’s court and that she descended against him from the canopy of the prince’s servants, all in black dunce.”
Chronicle, Ipatiev list. 1152

Myatel (myatl) - old road autumn or winter clothes known in Rus' since the 11th century. Looks like a raincoat. As a rule, he was cloth. It was worn by rich townspeople in the Kiev, Novgorod and Galician principalities. The black crepe was worn by monks and secular people during mourning. In the 18th century, the flail was still used as a monastic robe.

"A month played on the cufflinks of his one-row."

Single row- old Russian men's and women's clothing, unlined raincoat (in one row). Hence its name. Worn over a caftan or zipun. Existed in Russia before Peter's reforms.

"My sun is red! he exclaimed, clutching at the floor of the king's room...
A. Tolstoy "Prince Silver".

okhaben- old Russian clothes until the 18th century: wide, long-sleeved, like a single-row, with long hanging sleeves, in the armholes of which there were slits for the hands. For beauty, the sleeves were tied at the back. Okhaben had a large quadrangular collar.

"What a stunning sight?
Cylinder at the back.
Pants - saw.
Palmerston is buttoned up tight."
V. Mayakovsky "The Next Day".

Palmerston - a coat of a special cut, at the back it fit snugly at the waist. The name comes from the name of the English diplomat Lord Palmerston (1784-1865), who wore such a coat.

"Prince Ippolit hurriedly put on his redingote, which, in a new way, was longer than his heels."
L. Tolstoy "War and Peace".

redingote- outerwear such as a coat (from the English Riding coat - a coat for riding a horse). In England, when riding, a special long-brimmed caftan was used, buttoned up to the waist. In the second half of the 18th century, this form of clothing migrated to Europe and Russia.

"He's small, he's wearing a sweatshirt made of paper carpet, sandals, blue socks."
Yu Olesha "Cherry pit".

Sweatshirt- a wide long men's blouse with a pleat and a belt. Lev Nikolaevich Tolstoy wore such a blouse, in imitation of him they began to wear such shirts. This is where the name "sweatshirt" comes from. The fashion for sweatshirts continued until the 30s of the XX century.

“Nikolai Muravyov, who was standing near Kutuzov, saw how imperturbably calm this short, corpulent, an old general in a simple short frock coat and a scarf over his shoulder ... "
N. Zadonsky "Mountains and Stars".

frock coat- men's double-breasted clothing. The look of a long jacket, cut off at the waist, came into fashion in England at the end of the 18th century, spread throughout Western Europe and Russia as outerwear, then as a day suit. Frock coats were uniform - military, departmental and civilian.

"Nikita Zotov stood in front of her earnestly and straight, as in a church - combed, clean, in soft boots, in a dark cloth made of thin cloth."
A. Tolstoy "Peter the Great".

Feryaz- vintage top swing long clothes with long sleeves, which existed in Rus' in the XV-XVII centuries. This is a ceremonial caftan without a collar. Sewn on lining or on fur. The front was fastened with buttons and long loops. They decorated the feryaz with all kinds of stripes. Posad people and small merchants put on a feryaz directly on their shirts.

Shoes, hats, bags, etc. 5

"The boots, rising just above the ankle, were lined with a lot of lace and so wide that the lace fit into them like flowers in a vase."
Alfred de Vigny "Saint-Mar".

Treads- cavalry knee-high boots with wide openings. In France in the 17th century, they were the subject of special panache. They were worn lowered below the knees, and wide bells were decorated with lace.

"All the soldiers had wide fur earmuffs, gray gloves and cloth gaiters that covered the toes of their boots."
S. Dikovsky "Patriots".

Leggings- overhead bootlegs that cover the leg from the foot to the knee. They were made of leather, suede, cloth, with a clasp on the side. In the Louvre there is a bas-relief of the 5th century BC depicting Hermes, Eurydice and Orpheus, on whose feet the "first" gaiters. The ancient Romans also wore them. Gladiators wore gaiters only on the right leg, since the left was protected by a bronze greave.
In the XVII-XVIII centuries, uniform uniforms were introduced. The clothes of the soldiers were then a caftan (justocor), a camisole (a long vest), short pants - culottes and leggings. But at the beginning of the 19th century, long pantaloons and leggings began to be worn instead of culottes. Gaiters began to be made short. In this form, they were preserved in a civilian suit and in some armies.

"A man in spats, holding a bloody handkerchief to his mouth, rummaged through the dust on the road, looking for a downed pince-nez."

Gaiters- the same as gaiters. They covered the leg from the foot to the knee or ankle. They continued to be worn as early as the mid-thirties of our century. Now leggings are back in fashion. They are made knitted, often in bright stripes, with ornaments and embroidery. Leggings high to the knees made of hard leather are called leggings.

“The cameras-pages were even more elegant - in white leggings, varnished high boots and with swords on ancient gold belts.
A. Ignatiev "Fifty years in the ranks."

Leggings- tight-fitting trousers made of buckskin or coarse suede. Before putting on, they were moistened with water and pulled wet. At the beginning of the last century, leggings were part of the military uniform of some regiments in Russia. How dress uniform survived until 1917.

"One of the Makhnovists had a straw boater blown away by the wind."
K. Paustovsky "The Tale of Life".

Boater- a hat made of stiff and large straw with a flat crown and straight brim. Appeared in the late 80s of the XIX century and was fashionable until the 30s of our century. The famous French chansonnier Maurice Chevalier always performed in a boater. In the 90s of the last century, women also wore boaters.
At the beginning of the 19th century, the so-called "kibitka" was a favorite women's headdress - a hat with a small crown and brim in the form of a large visor. The name comes from the similarity of the shape of the hat with a covered wagon.


“... Auguste Lafarge, a fair-haired handsome man who served as the head clerk of a Parisian notary. Wore a carrick with thirty six capes..."
A. Maurois "Three Dumas".

At the end of the 18th century, a fashion came from England for a loose double-breasted coat with several capes covering the shoulders -. It was usually worn by young dandies. Therefore, the number of capes depended on the taste of each. Women started wearing the carrick around the first decade of the 19th century.

“She took out yacht earrings from a huge reticule and, giving them to Natasha, who was beaming and blushing on her birthday, immediately turned away from her ...”
L. Tolstoy "War and Peace".

At the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th century, narrow dresses made of thin and transparent fabrics without inside pockets, in which women usually kept various toilet trifles, came into fashion. Handbags have arrived. At first they were worn on the side on a special sling. Then they began to make in the form of baskets or a bag. Such handbags were called "reticulum" from the Latin reticulum (woven mesh). As a joke, they began to call the reticule from the French ridicule - funny. Under this name handbag came into use in all European countries. They made reticules from silk, velvet, cloth and other materials, decorated with embroidery, appliqué.

Costume details, underdress 6

"A simple white cloak is worn on the king, fastened on the right shoulder and on the left side with two Egyptian agraphs of green gold, in the form of curled crocodiles - the symbol of the god Sebah."
A. Kuprin "Shulamith".

Agraf- clasp (from the French l "agrafe - clasp, hook). In ancient times, a clasp in the form of a hook attached to a ring was called a fibula, (Latin). Agraphs were made of expensive metals. Byzantine ones were distinguished by special luxury.

“... the voivode’s daughter boldly approached him, put her brilliant diadem on his head, hung earrings on his lips and threw on him a transparent muslin chemisette with scallops embroidered with gold.”
N. Gogol "Taras Bulba".

Chemisette- an insert on the chest in women's dresses. It first appeared in the 16th century in Venice, when they began to sew dresses with a very open bodice. From Italy it spread to Spain and France. They made a shemisette from expensive fabrics and richly decorated it. In the early fifties of the 19th century, women's dresses were sewn with double sleeves. The upper one is made of the same fabric as the bodice, and the lower one is made of the chemisette fabric. AT elegant dresses chemisettes were lace or made of expensive material. In everyday - from batiste, pique and other cream or white fabrics. Sometimes the insert was with a turn-down collar.
Another meaning of a chemiset is a women's jacket, blouse.

Modest. In ancient Rome, women wore several tunics. The manner of putting on the upper and lower dress at once was preserved until the end of the 18th century. In the 17th century, the upper dress - modeste (modeste, modest in French) was always sewn with an swinging skirt made of thick, heavy, embroidered with gold and silver fabrics. It was draped from the sides, fastened with agraph clasps or ribbon bows. The skirt had a train, the length of which, as in the Middle Ages, was strictly regulated. (Queen's train - 11 cubits, princesses - 5 cubits, duchesses - 3 cubits. A cubit is approximately equal to 38-46 centimeters.)

Freepon(la friponne, from French - cheat, crafty). Bottom dress. It was sewn from a light fabric of a different color, no less expensive than on the top dress. Trimmed with flounces, assemblies and lace. The most fashionable was the trim of black lace. The names modest and fripon were used only in the 17th century.

“His engraves were so wide and so richly decorated with lace that a nobleman’s sword seemed out of place against their background.”
A. and S. Golon "Angelica".

One of the curiosities male fashion The 17th century were (rhingraves). This peculiar skirt-pants was a bulky garment made of a series of longitudinal velvet or silk stripes embroidered with gold or silver. The stripes were sewn onto a lining (two wide legs) of a different color. Sometimes, instead of stripes, the skirt was quilted with pleats. The bottom ended with a fringe of ribbons in the form of loops laid one on top of the other, or a frill, or an embroidered border. On the sides, the rengraves were decorated with bunches of ribbons - the most fashion decoration seventeenth century. All this was put on over the top pants (o-de-chaise) so that their lace frills (canons) were visible. Several types of regraves are known. In Spain, they had a clear silhouette - several even strips of lace sewn on the bottom. Rengraves appeared in England in 1660 and were longer than in France, where they had been worn since 1652.
Who is the author of such an unprecedented outfit? Some attribute it to the Dutch ambassador in Paris, Reingraf von Salm-Neville, who allegedly surprised Paris with such a toilet. But F. Bush in the book "History of the Costume" writes that Salm-Neville did little to fashion issues, and considers Edward Palatine, known at that time for his eccentricities and extravagant toilets, an abundance of ribbons and lace, as a possible creator of regrave.
The fashion for rengraves corresponded to the then dominant baroque style and lasted until the seventies.

National costume of some peoples living in Russia

Traditional clothes of the Kyrgyz 7

“She put on a simple dress, but over it embroidered with intricate beldemchi patterns, her hands were decorated with inexpensive bracelets and rings, and turquoise earrings were in her ears.”
K. Kaimov "Atai".

Beldemchi- part of the women's Kyrgyz national costume in the form of an open skirt on a wide belt. Such skirts have been worn since ancient times in many Asian countries. Clothing in the form of an open skirt is also known in Ukraine, Moldova and the Baltic states. In Kyrgyzstan, women began to wear beldemchi over a dress or robe after the birth of their first child. In the conditions of nomadic life, such clothes did not constrain movements and protected from the cold. Several types of beldemchi are known: a swinging skirt - strongly gathered, sewn from three or four beveled pieces of black velvet. Its edges converged in front. The skirt was decorated with silk embroidery. Another type is a ruched skirt made of colored velvet or bright semi-silk fabrics. The front of the skirt did not converge by 15 centimeters. The edges were sheathed with strips of otter, marten, and lambskin fur. There were skirts made of sheepskin. Such skirts were worn by women of the Ichkilik group in Kyrgyzstan, as well as in the Jirgatel region of Tajikistan and in the Andijan region of Uzbekistan.

"... the scarf is lowered on the shoulders, on the legs of ichigi and kaushi."
K. Bayalinov "Azhar".

ichigi- soft light boots, men's and women's. Distributed among most of the peoples of Central Asia, as well as among the Tatars and the Russian population of Siberia. They wear ichigi with rubber galoshes, and in the old days they wore leather galoshes (kaushi, kavushi, kebis).

“Ahead of all, casually hanging on the left side of the saddle, in a white cap trimmed with black velvet, in a white felt kementai, trimmed with velvet, Tyulkubek flaunted.
K. Dzhantoshev "Kanybek".

Kementai- wide felt robe. These are clothes mainly of pastoralists: they protect from cold and rain. In the 19th century, richly trimmed white kementai was worn by wealthy Kyrgyz.

“Our world was created for the rich and powerful. For the poor and the weak, it is cramped, like rawhide charik ... "

Charyk- a type of boots with a thick sole, which was cut wider and longer than the foot, and then bent up and stitched. The bootleg (kong) was cut separately.

"Forty-two arrows here,
Forty-two arrows there,
They fly into the caps of the shooters,
Cut the tassels from the caps,
Without hitting the shooters themselves.
From the Kyrgyz epic Manas.

Cap- this ancient Kyrgyz headdress is still very popular in Kyrgyzstan. In the 19th century, the production of caps was a women's business, and men sold them. To make a cap, the customer handed over a whole fleece of a young lamb, and the fleece was taken as payment.
Caps were sewn from four wedges, expanding downwards. On the sides, the wedges were not sewn, which allows you to raise or lower the brim, protecting your eyes from the bright sun. The top was decorated with a tassel.
Kyrgyz caps were varied in cut. The caps of the nobility were with a high crown, the margins of the cap were hemmed with black velvet. The poor Kirghiz used to trim their headdresses with satin, and children's caps were decorated with red velvet or red cloth.
A kind of cap - ah kolpay - was without split fields. Felt caps are also worn by other peoples of Central Asia. Its appearance in Central Asia dates back to the 13th century.

“Zura, having thrown off her kurmo and rolled up the sleeves of her dress, is busy near the burning hearth.”
K. Kaimov "Atai".

Curmo- a sleeveless jacket, fitted, elongated, sometimes with a short sleeve and a stand-up collar. It has become widespread throughout Kyrgyzstan, has several names and small differences - camisole (kamzur, kemzir), more common - chiptama.

“... he slowly sank down on his haunches, sat like that in a fur coat and a pulled-down malakhai, propping his back against the wall and sobbing bitterly.”
Ch. Aitmatov "Stormy Station".

Malachai- a special type of headdress, the distinguishing feature of which is a long back-plate descending onto the back, connected to elongated headphones. It was made from fox fur, less often from the fur of a young ram or deer, and the top was covered with cloth.
Malachai was also called a wide caftan without a belt.

"...then he returned, put on his new chepken, took kamcha from the wall and..."
Ch. Aitmatov "Date with the son".

Chepken- outer quilted men's clothing such as a dressing gown. In the north of Kyrgyzstan, it was sewn on a warm lining and with a deep smell. The craftswomen who made chepkens were held in high esteem. Nowadays, older people wear such clothes.

“A white-furred tebetey lay behind him on the grass, and he simply sat in a black cloth cap.”
T. Kasymbekov "The Broken Sword".

Tebetey- a common winter headdress, an indispensable part of the male Kyrgyz national costume. It has a flat four-wedge crown, and it is usually sewn from velvet or cloth, most often trimmed with fox or marten fur, and in the Tien Shan regions with black lamb fur.
Kyzyl tebetei - red cap. It was worn on the head during the erection of the khanate. In the past, there was a custom: if the messenger was sent by the authorities, then his “ calling card”was presented to them by you. The custom became so entrenched that in the first years after the revolution, the messenger brought tebetei with him.

"Throw her your chapan, I'll give you another, silk."
V. Yan "Genghis Khan".

Chapan- men's and women's long clothes such as a dressing gown. It was considered indecent to leave the house without a chapan. They sew a chapan on wadding or camel wool with a cotton lining. In the old days, the lining was made of mats - cheap white or printed cotton fabric. From above, the chapan was covered with velvet, cloth, velveteen. Currently, chapans are worn only by older people.
There are several variants of this clothing, caused by ethnic differences: naigut chapan - a wide tunic-shaped robe, sleeves with a gusset, sewn at a right angle, kaptama chapan - loose cut, sewn-in sleeves with a rounded armhole and a chapan straight and narrow, with side slits. The hem and sleeve are usually sheathed with a cord.

"He's got rawhide chocois on his feet... Good God, worn, crooked chocois!"
T. Kasymbekov "The Broken Sword".

Chocoi- stocking shoes made of rawhide. Made from one piece. The upper part of the chocoi reached the knees or slightly lower and was not sewn to the end, so the chocoi were fastened with leather straps at the ankle. Previously, they were worn by shepherds and herdsmen. Now these shoes are not worn. Orus chokoi - felt boots. They were sewn from felt (felt felt), sometimes sheathed with leather for durability.

“She hastily got up from her seat, on the move pulled out a cholpa from her pocket, threw it back and, jingling with silver coins, left the yurt.”
A. Tokombaev "Wounded Heart".

Cholpu- decoration for braids from pendants - silver coins attached to a triangular silver plate. This adornment was worn by women, especially those who lived in the area of ​​Lake Issyk-Kul, in the Chui valley and in the Tien Shan. Cholpa is now rarely worn.

“I was taken into a white yurt. In the first part of it, where I stopped, on silk and plush pillows ... a stout woman in a large silk train sat importantly.
M. Elebaev "Long way".

Elechek- women's headdress in the form of a turban. In its full form, it consists of three parts: a cap with a braid was put on the head, over it a small rectangular piece of fabric covering the neck and sewn under the chin; on top of everything - a turban made of white matter.
Among different tribal groups of Kyrgyzstan, the female turban had various forms- from a simple cheat to complex structures, slightly reminiscent of a Russian horned kick.
In Kyrgyzstan, the turban has become widespread.
She was called a cripple, but among the southern and northern Kirghiz - elechek. The same name was used by some groups of Kazakhs. For the first time, elechek was worn by a young woman, sent to her husband’s house, thereby emphasizing her transition to another age group. The wedding wish for the young woman said: "Let your white elechek not fall off your head." It was a wish for a long family happiness. Elechek was worn in winter and summer, without it it was not customary to leave the yurt even for water. Only after the revolution did they stop wearing elechek and replace it with a headscarf.

Traditional Georgian clothes 8

“The prince was very adorned with an Arab caftan and a tiger-colored brocade kaba.”

Kaba- long men's clothing worn in eastern, partly southern Georgia in the 11th-12th centuries by noble feudal lords and courtiers. The peculiarity of the kaba is long, almost to the floor sleeves, sewn down. These sleeves are decorative, they were thrown behind the back. The top of the kaba along the cut on the chest, as well as the collar and sleeves, were sheathed with black silk lace, from under which a bright blue edging protruded. Over the centuries, the style of the cab has changed. In later times, the kaboo was made shorter, below the knees - from silk, cloth, canvas, leather. She wore a kaba no longer only to know. The female kaba - arkhaluk - was up to the floor.

“The policeman brought a young man in a black Circassian coat to the square, carefully searched him and stepped aside.”
K. Lordkipanidze. Gori story.

Circassian (chuhva) - outerwear for men of the peoples of the Caucasus. A type of open caftan at the waist, with ruffles and a cutout on the chest so that the beshmet (arkhaluk, volgach) can be seen. Butt-hook fastening. On the chest there are pockets for gazyrs, in which gunpowder was stored. The sleeves are wide and long. They are worn curved, but during dances they are released to their full length.
Over time, gazyrs have lost their significance, they have become purely decorative. They were made of expensive wood, bone, decorated with gold and silver. An obligatory accessory of the Circassian is a dagger, as well as a narrow leather belt with overlaid plates and silver pendants.
Circassians were made from local cloth, cloth from goat down was especially valued. In the second half of the 19th century, Circassians began to be sewn from imported factory material. The most common are black, brown, gray Circassians. The most expensive and elegant were and are considered white Circassians. Until 1917, the Circassian coat was the uniform of some military branches. During the First World War, instead of the Circassian and Beshmet, they introduced the new kind clothes - becherahovka (named after the tailor who invented it). This saved material. The becherahovka had a closed chest with a collar, and instead of gazyrs, there were ordinary pockets. They girdled the shirt with a Caucasian strap. Later it was called the Caucasian shirt. It was very popular in the 20s and 30s.

“Near this inscription, a figure of a beardless youth dressed in a Georgian chokha was carved.”
K. Gamsakhurdia. "The hand of the great master."

Chokha (chookha)- monastic clothes in ancient Georgia. Subsequently male National clothes. It was distributed throughout Georgia and had many variants. These are swinging clothes in the waist, of various lengths, they put it on arkhaluk (beshmet). The chokha has a barrel strongly sloping towards the back. The side seam was emphasized with braid or soutache. Pockets for gazyrs were sewn slightly obliquely on the front. Behind the detachable back were the smallest byte folds or assemblies. Going to work, the front floors of the chokhi were thrown behind the back under the belt. The narrow sleeve was left unsewn for about five fingers. A hole was left between the side panels and the wedges of the folds, which coincided with the pocket of the archaluk.

“Dresses hung in one half ... her muslin bedspreads, lechaks, bathing shirts, riding dresses.”
K. Gamsakhurdia. "David the Builder"

Lechaki- Cover made of light fabric. At first it had the shape of an irregular triangle. The edges of the lechaks were sheathed with lace, leaving only the elongated end without them. Lechaki older women and mourning were without lace trim. Modern bedspreads are square in shape.

“George was interested in pheasant-coloured shadyshi.”
K. Gamsakhurdia. "The hand of the great master."

Sheidishi- women's long pants, which were worn in the old days under a dress in Kakheti, Kartli, Imereti and other places. They were sewn from silk different colors, but preferred all sorts of shades of crimson. Sheidish, visible from under the dress, were richly embroidered with silk or gold thread with floral ornaments depicting animals. The lower edge was sheathed with gold or silver braid.

"... the girl put on an elegant cape - katibi, embroidered along and across with colored silk threads."
K. Lordkipanidze. "Tsogs".

katibi- antique knee-length outerwear for women made of velvet of various colors, lined with fur or silk and trimmed with fur along the edges. The main decorations are long sleeves that are not sewn almost to the entire length and decorative conical buttons made of metal or covered with blue enamel. The front and back were sewn with cut-offs.
Katibi is also called a dressy sleeveless jacket.

1 Muller N. Barezh, stamed, canifas // Science and Life, No. 5, 1974. Pp. 140-141.
2 Muller N. Adrienne, Berta and Epanechka // Science and Life, No. 4, 1975. Pp. 154-156.
3 Muller N. Apash, almaviva, frock coat ... // Science and Life, No. 10, 1976. Pp. 131.
4 Muller N. Bekesha, dolman, frock coat... // Science and Life, No. 8, 1977. Pp. 148-149.
5 Muller N. Gaiters, leggings, carrick // Science and Life, No. 2, 1985. Pp. 142-143.
6 Muller N. Agraf, rengraves, modest, fripon // Science and Life, No. 10, 1985. Pp. 129-130.
7 Muller N. Beldemchi... Kementai... Elechek... // Science and Life, No. 3, 1982. Pp. 137-139.
8 Muller N. Kaba, Lechaks, Circassian, Chokha // Science and Life, No. 3, 1989. Pp. 92-93.

Clothing style

First letter "p"

Second letter "o"

Third letter "k"

The last beech is the letter "y"

Answer for the clue "Fashion", 6 letters:
cut

Alternative questions in crossword puzzles for the word cut

Determined by pattern

Style, appearance, attached to clothing in one way or another, cutting

The appearance given to clothing in one way or another by cutting, style

Clothing style

Appearance given to clothing by one method or another

Style, tailoring

Style, but not force

Word definitions for cut in dictionaries

Dictionary Russian language. D.N. Ushakov The meaning of the word in the dictionary Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. D.N. Ushakov
cut, m. Form, style of clothing. I don't like this cover. Coat of English cut. Dressed in a military-style overcoat with a two-yard beaver collar. Turgenev. Walks ... in a tailcoat, God knows what cut. Goncharov. What kind of cut (colloquial) - transfer ....

Wikipedia The meaning of the word in the Wikipedia dictionary
Cut: Cut (cut) - the structure of a finished garment or shoe based on a pattern. Pokroi (Cover) is the former name of the Lithuanian city of Pakruojis.

Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. The meaning of the word in the dictionary Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova.
-i, m. The look attached to clothing in one way or another by cutting a style. Fashionable p. One p.

Examples of the use of the word cut in the literature.

Pantagruel Panurge Fatal madman, High note madman, natural madman, bekar and flat madman, heavenly madman, earthly madman, jovial madman, cheerful and playful madman, mercurial madman, mischievous and beautiful madman, lunatic madman, pom-pom madman, erratic madman , madcap with scalloped, eccentric madcap, madcap with bells, ethereal and youthful madcap smiling and howling, venereal-obedient, arctic madcap, settled madcap, heroic madcap, madcap right from under the wine press, genius madcap, first-time madcap, predetermined madcap, madcap fermentative, august madcap, double-stranded madcap, Caesarian madness, papal madness, imperial madness, consistorial madness, royal madness, conclave madness, royal madness, bullist madness, patriarchal madness, synodal madness, loyal madness, madness d episcopal, crazy

And Panurge picked up: - Unchanging and excellent madcap, Pantagruel Panurge Fatal madcap, High-pitched madcap, natural madcap, bekar and flat madcap, heavenly madcap, earthly madcap, jovial madcap, cheerful and playful madcap, mercurial madcap, mischievous and beautiful, madman lunatic, madcap with pom-poms, madcap erratic, madcap with festoons, eccentric madcap, madcap with bells, ethereal madcap and smiling and Juno madcap, venereobedient, arctic madcap, settled madcap, heroic madcap, madcap right from under the winepress, madcap ingenious, primordial madcap, predetermined madness, fermenting madness, august madness, two-wire madness, Caesarian madness, papal madness, imperial madness, consistorial madness, royal madness, conclave madness, monarchical madness, bullist madness, patriarchal madness y, synodal madman

I want to be a patriot, but my patriotism is in the pursuit of antitoxins, in my work, not in wearing famous cut pants or famous cut thoughts about the Germans.

Like this strong man, his chest is full-breasted and completely covered in cobwebs, his belly is like a watermelon, also in dust, under him are grandfather's mattress-striped underpants - to the knees - cut fluttering, his cap-flounced with a visor to one side, in each hand a bucket of mushrooms, with goggle eyes - for better visibility at dusk, - as he, seeding with dirty white sneakers, rushes back and forth through the fields, meadows and copses.

From clothes one could see a plaid shirt with a collar, cut which Bai seemed strange.