In addition to the usual measures, the method uses the value The size, which is equal to half the measurement of the circumference of the chest first
Size = ½ x Og1 = ½ x 77.5 = 38.75cm

Free fit allowances:

From point C to the right, we set aside the segment CC 2, the length of which is calculated by the formula:
SS 2 \u003d 1/4 x Og3 - 1cm + CO\u003d 1/4 x 81 - 1 + 1.5 \u003d 20.75 cm.

From the point H we draw a perpendicular line to the intersection with the line CC 2, we denote the intersection point as O.

To the right of point B 1 we draw a horizontal segment B 1 L 1, equal to half the measure of the shoulder width:
B 1 L 1 \u003d ½ x Shp= ½ x 37 = 18.5 cm.

Let's draw shoulder cut backs, connecting the points G and L 1 with a straight line.

Let's build an armhole of the back, connecting the points L 1, M and C 2 with a smooth line. From the point L 1 down the line of the armhole, set aside 9 cm and put a notch - the control point of the armhole of the back.

Now, from the point E to the right, we set aside the segment EE 2, we find its value by the formula:
EE 2 \u003d 1/4 x About - 1cm + CO\u003d 1/4 x 88 - 1 + 1.5 \u003d 22.5 cm.
We connect points D 2 and E 2 with a smooth curved line with a deflection of 0.5-1 cm in the middle of the section D 2 E 2.

From point E 2 we lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line (FF 1), we denote the intersection point F 2 .
For a straight silhouette dress skirts the width of the back along the bottom line is equal to the width along the hips line.
For a flared silhouette from point F 2 to the right, set aside the expansion value of 1-3 cm, connect the resulting point with E 2.
For a tapered silhouette to the left of the point F 2 set aside the size of the narrowing of 1-3 cm and connect the resulting point with E 2.

This completes the construction of the back.

To the left of point A 2, set aside the width of the neck and mark point G 1:
A 2 G 1 = AG= 6.5 cm.
Down from the point A 2 we set aside the segment A 2 B 2 - the depth of the neck:
A 2 B 2 = 1/6 x Size +1cm\u003d 1/6 x 38.75 + 1 \u003d 7.5 cm.

Connect the points G 1 and B 2 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point B 2.

From the point H 1 we lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the line C 1 C 2, we denote the intersection point as O 1.
From the point H 1 down, we set aside a segment with a constant value of 7.5 cm and mark the point L 2:
H 1 L 2 = 7.5cm.

Draw an auxiliary horizontal line through the point L 2 . And from point G 1 we detect a circle, the radius of which is equal to the length of the shoulder of the back ( R=GL1). Let's denote the point of intersection of the circle with the auxiliary line L 3 and connect it with a straight line with the point G 1 .

Down the segment G 1 L 3 from the point G 1 we set aside the segment G 1 G 2, the value of which is equal to:
G 1 G 2 \u003d 1/10 x Size + CO\u003d 1/10 x 38.75 + 0.5 \u003d 4.4 cm.
From point G 2 we will build up a perpendicular of 1.6 cm and put point G 3:
G 2 G 3 = 1.6cm.

Connect the points G 1 and G 3 with a straight line, and then the points G 3 and N 1. Segment N 1 G 3 - the right side of the tuck.

From point N 1 we will detect an arc with a radius equal to the measure of the level of the tuck solution (R = Urv = 8.5 cm). The intersection of the arc with the right side of the tuck will be denoted by the point K. Now from this point we will detect the arc, the radius of which we will find by the formula:
R \u003d ½ x (Og3 - Og1)\u003d ½ x (81 - 77.5) \u003d 1.75 cm.
Let us denote the point of intersection of two arcs as K 1 .

Connect the points N 1 and K 1, and then extend the segment and level it with the length of the segment N 1 G 3:
N 1 G 4 = N 1 G 3.

Let's cut our construction along the line NN 1, transfer the solution chest tuck in the line of the middle of the shelf. The segment G 1 G 3 will be extended and leveled with the shoulder line of the back:
G 1 L 4 = GL 1.

Let's translate back the solution of the chest tuck into the shoulder section.

Let's draw a line for the armhole of the shelf, connecting the points L 4, M 1 and C 2 with a smooth line. Down from point L 4 along the line of the armhole, set aside 9cm and mark a notch - the control point of the armhole.

To build a set-in sleeve, we need an auxiliary segment, which we will construct by lowering the perpendicular from the point M 1 to the intersection with the segment C 1 C 2, the intersection point will be denoted by O 2. Segment C 2 O 2 - auxiliary segment.

Segment E 1 E 3 set aside to the left of the point E 1:
E 1 E 3 \u003d 1/4 x About + 1cm + CO\u003d 1/4 x 88 + 1 + 1.5 \u003d 24.5 cm.
We will connect points D 3 and E 3 with a smooth curved line with a deflection of 0.5-1 cm in the middle of the section D 3 E 3.
From point E 3 we lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line, we denote the intersection point F 3 .
For a straight silhouette and the skirts of the dress, the width of the shelf along the bottom line is equal to the width along the hip line, for flared or tapered from the point F 3 we build the value of the expansion or narrowing - 1-3 cm, we connect the resulting point with a straight line with the point E 3. It is very important that the amount of expansion or contraction along the bottom line is the same on the shelf and on the back.

Down the perpendicular from point N 1 set aside 2 cm, down from point R 1 - 12 cm, and along the waist line (D 1 D 3) to the left and right from point R 1 set aside 1.5 cm. The resulting points 2.12 and 1.5 will be connected by straight lines.

This completes the construction of the shelf.

And our dress design is ready!

The design of clothing is a device, the main characteristics of which are the silhouette, cut, relative position of parts, their constructive construction, type of connecting seams and materials.

The basic basis for the design of clothing is the rational design of its main parts, which is created once every 3-4 years, taking into account the modern size typology of the population and optimal allowances. Any construction can be built by various methods, which are divided into 2 classes according to the nature of the initial information.

1st class methods, which are based on the use of discrete measurements of typical figures, increments, data on the typical division of parts and the method of their shaping. Methods of the 1st class or approximate construction methods include dummy, computational and graphic design methods.

2nd class methods(engineering) are based on direct measurements of the shell and the developed surface of the sample - the standard of clothing and are more accurate. These include methods of triangulation, secant planes, geodesic lines, auxiliary deployment lines, development of clothing details according to model samples, etc.

The process of constructing drawings of unfolded parts of clothing by methods of the 1st class can be divided into three stages:

The initial data for calculations when constructing the base drawing are the dimensional characteristics of typical figures and the values ​​​​of constructive additions to them, which are selected depending on the silhouette, cut of the designed product, type of material used.

The main difference between the design methods is the use of initial data that differ in quantity and methods of determination, as well as the sequence of building the basic framework and the presence of a preliminary calculation.

Fake method

The creation of a model and obtaining scans of its details in accordance with the artistic concept is carried out by prototyping the product on a human figure or on a mannequin. The experimental way of creating a model makes it possible to fully take into account the anthropomorphic features of the human figure and the natural ability of the fabric to form; does not require any calculations; makes it possible to carry out visual volumetric prototyping of almost any model, regardless of complexity. Despite the apparent simplicity and accessibility of this method, its use requires good artistic taste and great professional skill. The accuracy of obtaining sweeps of clothing details is not high enough; the method is time-consuming and requires many numerical adjustments in the process of creating clothes.

The dummy method is used in the manufacture of theatrical costumes, in modeling and design women's clothing, where details, tucks and draperies of complex shape can be found, when designing clothes for a figure with abnormal deviations, when designing corset products. (Figure 2.2).

Settlement - graphic methods

The history of the emergence of design methods.
In 1800, London cutter Michel developed a cutting system called Drittel. The author divided half of the chest girth into three equal parts (1/3 for the width of the back, armhole and front). It was the first "grid" for graphic constructions of a clothing design drawing. By dividing the original drawing into cells with the same side, you can proportionally increase or decrease this drawing as you wish.

On the basis of this method, a new cutting system is subsequently created - cellular. In this system, the rectangle was additionally divided into 6 more parts and 18 small cells were selected at the top and 2 large ones at the bottom. This made it possible to fix the shape of the cut details when scaling in size.

A distinctive feature of the Muller and Son technique is the mirror image of the location of the back and front in the drawing. This technique uses the values ​​​​of full girths and widths. To measure the figure, the principle of spherical trigonometry was used, and the construction of drawings of sweeps was performed using arc serifs on three sides of the triangles. The vertices of the triangles were the nodal points of the construction details, and the sides were the measurements of the human figure. In both versions of the trigonometric system, a large number of measurements were used, especially arc ones.

In Russia, the coordinate system of the Levitanus brothers and the Lengridge system were most famous. These systems provided for the construction of a drawing from individual points found by geometric construction in a rectangular coordinate system.

The development of mass production of clothing required new approaches to design. Taking measurements from the customer became impossible. Measurements of a specific figure were replaced by calculations based on proportional dependencies on the leading dimensional features - chest girth and height (see figure below). This led to the emergence and formation of varieties of the coordinate system: calculation-measuring and proportional-calculation systems. They were based on the idea that the figures of people of the same size and height without a significant difference in physique can be taken as conditionally normal and, in principle, considered the same.

The proportional calculation method had many varieties and, as it were, developed the previous cutting systems. Improvement went in the direction of studying and taking into account the structure of the human body, finding a more correct division of parts and components of the product, introducing new additional projection dimensions. This method was used for many years, until material was accumulated on mass anthropological measurements, convincingly proving that proportions in human size do not exist. Since 1959, TsNIIShP has been working on the creation of a unified methodology for designing men's, women's and children's clothing (EMKO). The EMKO was based on the calculation and analytical method, according to which the design drawings are built by geometric sweeps a smoothed contour of a human figure with allowances for free fit (CO) and decorative design.

The disadvantages of this technique include:

• cumbersomeness of graphic constructions and calculation formulas;
• lack of accuracy in building the foundation;
• refinements are required in the process of manufacturing prototypes;
• difficulty in choosing increments for CO.

Modern clothing design techniques

In Russia, the unified method for designing clothes of the Central Research Institute of the Garment Industry and the unified method for designing clothes made to order, developed by the Central Experimental and Technological Sewing Laboratory ( TSOTSHL) based on the TsNIIShP methodology and differing from it in the replacement of individual calculation formulas by measurements of the figure and some simplification of the formulas.

Subsequently, the so-called unified methodology for designing clothing of the CMEA member countries (1980-1986) (CMKO CMEA) was developed, summarizing the design experience of the former CMEA member countries and other states.

SEV methodology ( EMKO SEV) - a unified method for designing clothing of the CMEA member countries, which made it possible to automate the development of design drawings and is the basis for many modern computer-aided design systems. The EMKO SEV method uses the values ​​of full girths and widths.

In the calculation-graphic design method created by the central experimental and technical sewing laboratory ( TSOTSHL) the conformity of clothing to the figure of a person is ensured by taking 10-18 measurements (measurements) from him.

In the methods of TsOTSHL and EMKO SEV, the construction of the basis of the structure is carried out according to the system of main structural segments, all necessary calculations parameters base grid produced directly in the process of building a drawing.

Modern technique Muller and Son significantly different from the previous one. It has significantly fewer measurements and tables have been developed for constructing a chest tuck, adjusted for a non-standard chest. Figure measurements were replaced by calculations based on proportional dependencies on the leading dimensional features. The advantages of this technique are accurate calculations, clarity of construction fundamentals, which makes it possible to use it in the industrial production of clothing. The downside is the cumbersomeness of the construction, which requires calculation and the inability to make corrections for a non-standard figure immediately in the drawing.

The clothing design method developed in MTILP, is based not only on the use of dimensional features of the figure, but also on the consideration of data on the development of surfaces of models of typical figures. The MTILP technique is characterized by the non-traditional nature of the sequence of construction of individual nodes of the drawing, including the drawing of lines of the base grid. The preliminary calculation in the methodology is not highlighted, so the position of the main vertical and horizontal lines of the base grid is determined on the basis of a series of sequentially performed calculations in accordance with the sequence below:

It has been established that the design of the base frame, built according to the EMKO SEV method, is intended for figures with normal posture and low shoulders. The design of the base frame according to the TsNIIShP method is preferable for figures with a straightened posture. low shoulders, with full hands and developed mammary glands. According to TsOTSHL - with a straightened posture, normal shoulder height, thin arms and normal development mammary glands. Method "M. Müller and Son" is preferable for figures with a stooped posture, high shoulders and weak development of the mammary glands.

For design development knitwear the most accurate and justified is the technique developed by the former All-Union House of Knitwear Models (VDMTI). The VDMTI methodology describes a method for calculating and constructing product details using calculation formulas, mainly of the first type, taking into account the extensibility group of knitwear. This provides the greatest reliability of the connection between the individual measurements of the figure and the corresponding sections of the drawing, a sufficient degree of accuracy of the calculations. Elements of graphic constructions - drawing the line of the base grid, determining the position of the design points of the drawing by serifs of arcs and the method of curved curves. A distinctive feature of the basic grid of the design drawing of the shoulder clothing is the presence of additional verticals passing through the center of the shoulder blades (on the back) and the center of the chest (on the front), and the initial horizontal corresponding to the neck-shoulder line.

Engineering Methods

• The method of developable surfaces.
• triangulation method.
• Method of cutting planes and geodesic lines.

triangulation method

The general technique for constructing an approximate technical sweep is that a given surface is divided into separate elements and replaced by elements of conditionally developable surfaces, which are then developed. The accuracy of the approximation depends on the number of elements splitting the curved surface.

Cutting plane method

Proposed in 1954 by A.I. Ivanova. This method is one of the first attempts to obtain a development of clothing details using descriptive geometry and drawing. Each section of the selected part of the figure is conditionally equated to a developing geometric surface and is sequentially deployed and laid on a plane.

Method of geodesic lines

The essence of the method lies in modeling a number of geodesic lines on the surface with a given step and successively constructing unfoldings of selected surface areas bounded by geodesic lines on a plane. This method later found its application in scanning, obtaining information about the figure.

Method for calculating unfolded parts of clothing based on model samples

The essence of the method is that on the developed surface along the accepted orthogonal geodesic axes, two mutually perpendicular warp and weft threads of a grid-canvas or other material are fixed. When the mesh is completely aligned with the surface, the threads of this mesh form a Chebyshev network on it. Such a network can be laid in rectangular axes on a plane and a surface scan can be obtained. With the help of a mesh-canvas, a Chebyshev mesh is simulated directly on a given surface, subject to the theoretical conditions for its construction and simultaneous adjustment of the part on the same surface, taking into account technological requirements.

Table 1 - Basic clothing design methods

Have you tried building structures on a computer?

Of course, most of you will say that you use CAD for this. But is this method always available? For example, at home or in small studios? For this CAD is very expensive.

In this case, the CorelDRAW graphics editor can come to our aid. It will reduce the time for building structures, simplify the modeling process and save you from paper and pencil red tape.

And also print ready-made patterns (patterns) on a scale of 1: 1 on a home printer without distortion.

More than 500 constructors and fashion designers have already tried it in action, but do you want to?

Come to the mini-course "Designing a skirt in CorelDRAW" and you will see with your own eyes all the Power and Advantages of this method

hidden Sources used

• Koblyakova E. B. Designing clothes with CAD elements / E. B. Koblyakova, A. V. Savostitsky, G. S. Ivleva. Moscow: KDU Publishing House, 2007.464 p.
• Kurenova S.V., Savelyeva N.Yu., Designing clothes: a textbook for universities. Rostov-on-Don: Phoenix, 2003.480 p.

The basic dress pattern contains several patterns:
- pattern of a straight skirt;
- bodice pattern with chest and waist recesses.

It follows that having built a dress, you will have several patterns on hand! Which is very practical and saves time. The main thing is to build it correctly, and preferably without difficulties, right? To do this, read the instructions and watch the video tutorial at the end of the article.

After you build the pattern, on your computer you will see something like this:

The pattern is built using the NanoCAD program, see how to work with it

I will say in advance that over time, in different models(dresses, shirts, vests, etc.) we will learn how to hide undercuts. It is not difficult to do this, and the model will change and turn into a wonderful outfit in a matter of minutes.

Building a dress pattern

The construction of the pattern of the base of the dress is made according to the Italian method, which is distinguished by its ease of construction and perfect fit ... Yes, yes, you have probably already been tortured by these words, but this is pure truth!
To build a pattern for the base of the dress, we need to take measurements.

See the lesson "Taking measurements according to the Italian method of cutting":

However, in this tutorial, I decided to experiment and use typical measurements taken from here. This is a table standard sizes figures in Italian sizes. Therefore, if someone has the same size as mine, be careful, well, or be careful ...

Be sure to pay attention to the increase table! If we didn’t need them in underwear, then it is very important to give an increase here, since the fabric is already less elastic, and comfort and freedom of movement should always be!!!
If you look closely at the table, we see that dresses, blouses, trousers and skirts go under 1 degree. And jackets, vests, jackets under 2. But the difference between them is not big. That is why if you take the average values, then you can sew from this pattern all at once ...
But here you already need flair and logic, and of course the very model of future clothes. For example, for a light blouse, a small increase is needed, but for a tight jacket with a lining, a little more is required.
Therefore, in order to save time, practice building, I advise you to immediately build several patterns with different increments. I will use the following increments to build a pattern:
Bust 2 cm.
Waist circumference 3 cm.
Hip circumference 3 cm.

The construction of the dress base pattern is divided into several stages:

Back construction.

Shelf construction.

BUILDING A DRESS BASE PATTERN: BACK

is built in the upper left corner of a new document in nanocad.

1. We build the top of the dress: the neckline, the shoulder line, and the armhole for the sleeve. All these actions are very similar to a bodice without undercuts. But don't think about reshooting it as we are adding extras!!! By the way, when recording the video, I made one mistake, but then I remembered it ... :) Once again I duplicate the waist width formula: ¼ waist circumference + 1 cm + 3 cm (for undercut) + ¼ increase along the waist line.

2. It is also important to take off the length of the dress, the average value. Since with each new product we take this measurement again, and adjust the base pattern to this length. I took the average value of about 105 cm.

3. The waist undercut is built in the middle of the waist line. That is, draw a perpendicular up and down to the armhole line and the thigh line, respectively. From the armhole line down 2 cm, from the waist line down about 14 cm.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE PATTERN OF THE BASIS OF THE DRESS: THE FRONT HALF.

Construction starts from the right corner. To find this point, you need to set aside such a distance from the first construction point (top left) that is equal to the half-girth of the chest + an increase along the chest line.
Let me also remind you that if the formula looks like this: ¼ Waist circumference + Increase, then you need to calculate in the following form: ¼ Waist circumference + ¼ Increase from the table. In our case:

½ chest circumference + ½ increase along the chest line.

How to build a dress pattern

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There are 6 comments left for this entry.

Clothing design Clothing design is
device, basic
whose characteristics
are silhouette, cut,
interposition
details, their constructive
construction, view
connecting seams and
materials.

Construction Methods

Italian cutting technique

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