Brogues are perforated shoes. The idea of ​​their creation belongs to Scottish farmers. The practicality of these shoes allowed them to become an integral part of the men's wardrobe, which women also borrowed. Brogues are a suitable option for autumn, spring and cool summer. Some women do not wear them, mistakenly considering them rude and completely unfeminine. However, if you know what to wear with brogues, you can use them to create elegant and stylish looks.

Men's brogues: creating a stylish look for every day

Men's brogues are not combined with formal suits and tuxedos. But they can be worn with jeans, shorts, classic trousers. These shoes are perfect under your favorite chinos.

When creating a stylish look, you need to consider the color of the shoes. Pair black brogues with a matching blazer, white shirt and jeans. Brown shoes are the perfect complement to a tweed or wool suit, and they can also be worn with jeans and a suede jacket. White brogues are combined with summer elements of the wardrobe. In the cold season, you should pay attention to olive or olive boots. beige colour. They fit under short jacket from leather or sheepskin coat of a free cut middle length. In autumn, you can wear high socks and stylishly roll up your trousers. And in summer, brogues are worn without socks in combination with shorts.

Such a variety of women's brogues

Adapting initially men's shoes to stylish female images, designers did not limit themselves exclusively to classic models. They offered a variety of options, from perforated oxfords to high-heeled shoes. According to the type of perforation, there are:

• full-fledged brogues - boots with a detachable toe that have a fully perforated surface;
• semi-brogues - shoes with a straight toe, perforated in the form of a medallion, and perforation at the seams;
• quarter brogues - boots with perforations exclusively along the seams.

We wear brogues with trousers and pants: choose a good combination

Brogues look great with cropped trousers. These shoes can also be worn with breeches and regular trousers if they are tucked up in style. Black, blue or brown brogues paired with a trouser suit will create a stylish office look. The main thing to remember is that the edges of the clothes should not cover the shoes.

You can add zest to an informal look with the help of bright socks and outrageous accessories. For example, things in ethnic style deserve attention. Socks will only match with trousers, but cannot be worn with a skirt.

Light brown suede boots can be combined with beige breeches, tucked up at the bottom. It is desirable that these are shoes with a stable heel. A burgundy shirt in a large cage will complement the image.

Create stylish look You can wear boyfriend pants under your brogues. Best Option there will be tucked up pants with perforations. They will be combined with a blouse or a white top, a black jacket and a backpack bag. Under light trousers, shoes of the same color or darker by two or three tones are suitable.

We wear brogues with a dress, skirt and shorts

When choosing a dress for brogues, you need to remember that the emphasis will have to be on shoes. Suitable for these shoes black dress V classical style or any other cropped model without bright prints. Pair brown and white ankle boots with a denim shirtdress for a casual look.

In summer, you can safely wear brogues with a skirt. It is best to choose shoes in black and white. And by wearing a white blouse and a black cardigan, you can create an image suitable for the office. Black or light brogues look great with denim shorts, complemented by a top, t-shirt or tank top.

Brogues with overalls, leggings and outerwear: photos of stylish looks

For slender women, brogues can be worn with a low-rise jumpsuit made of cotton or denim.

An unusual look will create a combination of these shoes with leggings, the material of which imitates leather. Black leggings will look good with boots of the same color. This set can be worn with an elongated sweater or a light-colored cropped vest.

Brogues go well with leather jacket, trench coat, jacket and cardigan. Suitable as a plain jacket, and with a bright pattern. The Scottish cage print will look stylish.

Brogues can serve as a harmonious addition to the created image, or they can become a bright, eye-catching element. In the first case, you should pay attention to the classic monochromatic models, in the second - to patent leather shoes and shoes with rhinestones, which are recommended to be worn with a clutch of the appropriate shade. Brogues can be combined with various elements of clothing, but it is undesirable to wear them with things that include brightly feminine details: flounces and ruffles.

Classic shoes are the basis of the wardrobe; they can say much more about a man than any other element of clothing. Now fashion is not as strict as it used to be, and boots for a formal suit may not be boring at all. Universal models have also appeared that are equally good both in the office and at informal events. Today we will talk about the top three men's shoes- brogues, oxfords, derbies. The difference between these models for the inexperienced is practically not noticeable, but meanwhile it exists.

Classic for all time

There are many epithets that can be used with regard to oxfords, but always with the prefix most: the most classic, the most stylish, the most strict, the most traditional and businesslike. Refined style and strict etiquette are associated with many people in England. That's right, because the ancestors of Oxfords first came into fashion there. Their ancestors are balmorals (photo below), named after the Scottish. In turn, their predecessors were Oxford half boots, popular in 1800 in the oldest European educational institution after which they got their name.

In the USA, balmorals and oxfords are synonymous, while in the UK the former are considered a variation of the latter due to the missing stitching on the boot welt.

Derby

Less formal. They are considered a universal shoe model. In England they are often referred to as "bluechers". The shoes got their name, according to one version, in honor of Marshal Blucher from Prussia, who, along with his army, participated in the Battle of Waterloo. The military, according to legend, wore the original boots with open lacing, which, in all likelihood, were later transformed into shoes.

What is brogging

It is easy to get confused in the variety of shoe models. Having started a conversation about the difference between derbies, oxfords and brogues, one interesting detail should be mentioned. Brogues are perforated. The process of applying a pattern by perforating holes of various sizes is called broaching. It can be carried out both on the derby and on the oxfords.

In the 17th century, Irish cattle farmers began to punch holes in shoes intentionally. The main function of brogging then is water from the foot and its rapid airing. Gradually, the model became popular with foresters and rangers, and then with the aristocracy. At this time, the appearance of modern brogues was formed. Convenience, practicality and versatility - these three qualities contributed to the popularization of shoes.

So the difference between oxfords and brogues, derbies and brogues is the small perforations on the heel and toe. In fact, they are not a separate style of shoes, they are just a way of decorating them.

Brogue types

Over time, the need for through perforation disappeared and the punctures became decorative. They are applied in the form openwork pattern on the surface of the shoes. There are three types depending on the technique:

• Full brogues. In this case, the entire surface of the shoe is perforated.
• Half-brogues. Small punctures are present only on the detachable toe and are grouped into a specific pattern.
• Quarter brogues. Perforation is present only along the seams.

Derby, brogues and oxfords: the difference in appearance

Oxfords are characterized by closed lacing. The vamp (front part of the boot) is sewn over the berets (side parts), pulled together with lacing.

In the case of the derby, the opposite is true. The lacing of this type of footwear is open, the berets are sewn over the vamp. Therefore, the sidewalls diverge freely to the sides when the laces are untied.

Initially, both types of shoes were characteristic exclusively for men's wardrobe. However, in the 1920s, the first women's oxfords and brogues. The difference between male and female model practically absent. Unless the latter are released in the most diverse color scheme. In Russia, the craze for oxfords among women was observed in 2010.

What to wear with derbies, brogues and oxfords

Many do not know that in the case of derbies, brogues and oxfords, the differences also apply to wearing rules. Not all models are equally good with a classic suit and jeans. Certain requirements exist, and it would be useful to take them into account.

The most classic and strict model is oxfords. Black shoes without perforations and decorative elements put on a strict suit or tuxedo, tailcoat. Made of brown leather, perfect for everyday wear. Women, on the other hand, can wear oxfords anytime and with anything.

Derby can be called the opposite of Oxfords. The shoes are versatile. Models in black and brown suitable for strict business suits. Derby from soft skin, with colored inserts, in a bright color, will perfectly complement jeans or cotton chinos. Red leather shoes are very popular. Such derbies add brightness and originality to the image. Their destiny is an informal style of clothing: slacks, jeans.

Derby's are a time when you can buy one pair and pair it safely with everything in your wardrobe. True, preference should be given to the least pretentious monophonic models. This is the difference between derby and oxford shoes.

Brogues occupy an intermediate position. As already mentioned, perforations can be applied to both oxfords and derbies. It should be remembered that on shoes immediately lowers the degree of its officiality. Stylists do not recommend wearing brogues with formal suits. They are most harmoniously combined with tweed or woolen suits, casual style jackets.

How much do men's oxfords and brogues cost

The difference in price is determined by two factors: material and brand. Classic oxfords have always been sewn from high-quality smooth leather. However, times are changing. Now you can find on sale models of patent leather, suede, leatherette or a combination of materials. classic color models - dark brown and black. Classic models can be found at longtime shoe companies: Crockett & Jones, Santoni, Edward Green, Cheaney, Wolverine and Barrett. Be prepared for what kind of products luxury brands you have to pay well. The price of oxfords (pictured) from Crockett & Jones starts from 395 euros.

Of course, in mass markets it is more democratic. Shoes from genuine leather cost from three to four thousand rubles.

Between derbies, brogues and oxfords, there is practically no difference in price, depending on the model. Classics are always more expensive, but not by much. Quite often you can observe how much the cost of a thing changes depending on fashion trends. However, this is not the case, oxfords, derbies and brogues in classical performance always in demand. For example, the British company NEXT offers its customers all models at a price of four to five thousand rubles.

Brogues are sometimes called the most versatile dress shoes - especially when it comes to classic models from smooth leather. However, many shoes and boots fit the concept of "brogues", and there is simply no single rule for combining them with clothes. Accordingly, we decided to write a separate large article on this topic and talk about what you can wear with all more or less common varieties.

Historical nuances

For a long time, brogues were considered informal country shoes that were out of place in a business environment. But then everything changed, and brogues gained popularity.

As Josh Sims, author of Men's Style Icons, wrote, when gentlemen began wearing brogues in the early 20th century, "they only wore them in the countryside and usually for sports." However, he then adds that brogues soon ceased to be associated with sports and became fashionable among the townspeople. This happened in the 1930s.

Since then, dress codes have become even more relaxed, but brogues are still unacceptable with formal evening wear. Some, however, are already breaking these rules - even Prince William once wore brogues with a tuxedo! However, this does not mean that such a combination has become a win-win. Rather, it is still faux pas - a stylistic mistake, a violation of the rules good manners.

Colors and materials

Regarding colors and materials, in the case of brogues, the rules common to all shoes apply. The darker the shoes or boots, the more formal they are; accordingly, black brogues are the most strict, and white brogues are the most informal. brown models different shades occupy intermediate positions: dark brown and burgundy are closer to black in degree of officiality, and beige, light brown and yellowish brown are closer to white. Reddish brown and tan brogues are very informal, although sometimes they go well even with business suits.

Blue and green brogues are also informal and generally less versatile than their brown counterparts, but a lot depends on your wardrobe. Let's say if you have a lot blue trousers and jeans, then blue brogues will definitely be less versatile than brown ones, and if you have a lot of brown trousers, then the situation is reversed. White brogues are suitable only for the warm season, informal and harmonize well only with light-colored clothing, and ideally it should not be too informal - chinos with arrows or a cotton suit, for example, will be more appropriate than blue jeans. The same is true for two-tone brogues/spectators.

Among the materials, it is the most official, but classic men's brogues are not made from it, and we will leave fashion models outside the scope of this article. Accordingly, the most strict classic brogues are models made of ordinary smooth leather, and they are also the most versatile (in some cases they are even combined with jeans). Suede brogues, other things being equal, are less formal, and grained leather models are even more informal. Cordovan brogues are about the same level of formality as smooth calfskin brogues.

Lacing type

Brogues with open lacing (), other things being equal, are less strict than brogues with closed lacing (oxfords).

In practice, this is expressed, for example, in the fact that quarter brogues with open lacing can be safely worn with jeans, but with closed lacing they are no longer worth it.

Black quarter brogues with closed lacing and perforation along only one seam on the toe are perfectly combined with even the most strict business suits, business cards and stollers, but open lacing no longer allows them to be worn with business cards or scrollers; combinations with most business suits (except for strict triplets) are acceptable, but open lacing will reduce the degree of formality of the ensemble.

quarter brogues

The degree of formality of these models depends not only on the material, type of lacing and color, but also on the amount of decorative perforation: if it is only along the seam on the toe, then the level of formality will be maximum. We have already noted above that black quarter brogues with closed lacing and perforation along only one seam are the most strict brogues that can be worn with dark three-piece suits, scooters, business cards, as well as with less strict clothes: two-piece suits and dark unpaired trousers with arrows.

closed lacing

Models of all other colors with business cards and scrollers are no longer worn, but the trouble is small, given that practically no one wears such clothes in Russia. On the other hand, dark brown and burgundy closed-laced quarter brogues still go well with huge amount suits and with many unpaired trousers with arrows.

Brown Closed-Lace Quarter Brogues and Trousers

Lighter, closed-laced quarter brogues can also be worn with many suits and mismatched trousers, including creased chinos. However, they don't go well with jeans. Another thing is with open lacing, which Bernhard Retzel, a well-known expert in classical men's style, calls the perfect shoe for the weekend. They can be worn not only with jeans, but also with suits, although not with all - say, a dark pinstripe three-piece suit is already too strict for them. On the other hand, a tweed or flannel suit is fine, as is a suit in cotton, linen, or even smooth wool adorned with some sort of informal check pattern. Of course, with derby - quarter brogues, chinos (including those without arrows), as well as trousers made of tweed, velveteen, moleskin and linen, will also be appropriate.

Semi-brogues

To begin with, we note that sometimes some quarter brogues are called semi-brogues - those of their variants where decorative perforation is present along several seams. In this article, however, we will adhere to the classic definition of semi-brogues, according to which such a term is used only in relation to shoes with decorative perforations along the seams and on the toe (that is, with a medallion - a pattern of small decorative holes).

Other things being equal, semi-brogues are less formal than quarter-brogues. You can’t wear them with business cards and scrollers, but at the same time, dark semi-brogues with closed lacing look flawless with many business suits and are usually suitable for wearing in the office and some business meetings (although along the way reducing the degree of formality of the image as a whole). Bernhard Retzel notes that fabrics with ornaments (in particular, in the Prince of Wales check) or textured materials, such as woolen flannel, are especially well suited to half-brogue oxfords. Linen and cotton suits and trousers are also appropriate, as well as some models made of smooth fabrics (but not the most strict and not the thinnest).

It should be noted that black semi-brogues made of smooth leather and with closed lacing are still too strict to be combined with jeans, but their brown, burgundy and red versions with jeans can already be worn, although this is not the most ideal combination. If the lacing is open, then half-brogues of any color will harmonize well with jeans, chinos and many unpaired trousers - both with arrows and without them. These trousers can be made from flannel, tweed, corduroy, cotton twill or linen. Suits made of similar materials are also suitable, but models made of smooth and thin fabrics will obviously not be the best partners for such shoes.

Full brogues

Full brogues, other things being equal, are less formal than semi-brogues, so they are clearly better suited for outdoor recreation, informal meetings, excursions and out-of-town trips than for formal events and doing business with conservative partners. In addition, they often look quite massive - and, as the author of the book "Suit" Michael Anton wrote, "pairs well with tight clothing and is therefore useful for winter.<...>". Further, he noted that they successfully harmonize with flannel and tweed suits, as well as with unpaired trousers and jackets. Bernhard Retzel recommended trousers and jackets made of tweed and flannel, as well as trousers made of corduroy or moleskin, for brown full brogues with closed lacing. On our own, we add that any full brogues harmonize well with jeans, although black models here in most cases are a less successful choice.

Full brogues should not be worn with smooth wool three-piece suits, but they often work very well with tweed three-piece suits. Full brogues with closed lacing, made of smooth leather in dark tones, are quite in harmony with some business suits, but reduce the degree of formality of the ensemble. Open-laced versions of this shoe are only best worn with informal suits made of textured or thick fabrics, as well as jeans and mismatched trousers (with or without creases).

Summer full brogues - white, light brown, tan or two-tone - look good with light summer trousers and suits made of cotton and linen.

Can you wear brogues without socks?

It is possible, but not necessary. Yes, on the Internet there are now quite a few photos of men dressed in brogues without socks, but such a combination looks controversial, and sometimes very controversial. The reaction of others to such images can easily be negative. Part of the point here is that the brogues look quite closed, and often also somewhat massive. If you want to wear shoes without socks, it is better to choose loafers, topsiders or moccasins - this combination looks noticeably more harmonious.

Can you wear brogues with shorts?

In some fashion blogs and in social networks you can see men in shorts paired with brogues. Conservatives are sharply negative about this combination, and we tend to support them: unlike loafers or topsiders, brogues cannot be called light summer shoes, although some of their models are very well suited for summer. However, "suitable for summer" and "look good with shorts/no socks" are completely different things.

We dare say that even the most informal brogues are too strict to harmonize well with shorts.

Although, perhaps, the point here is not only in severity, but also in appearance- brogues always seem more massive than, for example, loafers.

What else should not be worn with brogues?

With tuxedos and tailcoats. Any brogues are not formal enough for such formal wear. In addition, brogues are not suitable for wearing with sports, training and other knitted pants.

The right combination of accessories, clothes and shoes is a postulate when creating a successful image. You can achieve what you want experimentally by combining elements of the wardrobe in different ways, or you can look after a nice “look”, and then try it on yourself. For example, having bought women's brogues that are now fashionable, some will not understand what to wear them with. We will help! But first, let's take a look at useful information on the topic, in order to better understand the nuances.

Women's brogues: their variety and their distinguishing feature

Features of closed shoes, called such a tricky term:

• perforation;
• W-shaped or even cutting toe;
• slightly rounded toe;
• lacing;
• flat sole and brick heel.

Usually brogues are sewn from leather (not necessarily natural) or waxed suede. Newfangled detail - linen or guipure inserts in the side parts.

Lacquer models are also on sale.

The key difference between shoes, called brogues, and oxfords, which at first glance are very similar, is perforation. By the way, this element can decorate not only shoes, but also boots.

Varieties of models are distinguished by the location of the holes and the configuration of the toe.

Full brogues (full) - perforation in the front, on the sides of the lacing, along all seams; the contours of the detachable bow are made in the shape of the letter W. The fashionable rules of “good tone” classify this option as informal.

Semi-brogues - are distinguished by a straight toe and the presence of a "medallion" - a perforated pattern in the bow.

Quarter-brogues (quarter) - a model, the wearing of which is allowed by the dress code of even conservative corporations. The only decoration of such shoes is perforation along the seams.

Classic colors: black, brown, grey. However, designers are not satisfied with such “mortal boredom”, they offer fashionistas more interesting models, combining shades of details, painting the side parts of the soles.

Historical reference

The authors of the idea of ​​piercing the upper part of brogues (brogues) are Irish pastoralists. The reasons for inspiration were: the need to remove moisture that seeps into the shoes on swampy pastures, and the desire to “ventilate” the feet. The first mention of the model dates back to the 17th century.

Representatives of other crafts liked the practical innovation, and later (at the beginning of the 20th century) English aristocrats appreciated the merits of perforated shoes. It was for them that the model was decorated with a figured toe and a medallion (in 1937).

Women's brogues appeared in the second half of the last century. Initially, they were worn exclusively by emancipated young ladies. A comfortable model quickly gained popularity among pragmatic fashionistas, for whom the comfort of shoes is a priority.

What to wear with women's brogues

Stylists recommend combining slightly rough shoes with classic, romantic and casual clothes. More brevity. Less glamour. And now we present some successful combinations with different elements of the wardrobe.

Versatile look with jeans. Fashionable image: cropped trousers or jeans (7/8, preferably with a lapel) straight cut, shirt, bucket bag or flat, brogues. Socks are allowed but not encouraged. If you already wear them, then pick up the tone of the shoes.

Shorts will do, but not short tight ones, but baggy or Bermuda shorts just above the knee.

The only variation long skirts and dresses, combined with brogues - a straight cut with slits on the sides. The situation with short styles is a little simpler: we exclude the “balloon” and “tulip”, we prefer pleated or A-silhouette options.

Hit of the season: boyfriends, simple t-shirt or shirt,

Brogues are one of the popular men's shoes. These are classic lace-up boots, equipped with perforation (broguing). It can be a pattern that adorns shoes. Also, this type of shoe has a wide flat heel and a detachable toe of various shapes, depending on the model.

Probably, many people wondered how and under what circumstances these fashionable shoes appeared. The very word "brogues" in Norwegian means "covering for the foot."
Brogues, whose history of origin dates back to the 17th century, came to us from Ireland and Scotland. British farmers who spent a lot of time in peat bogs made holes in their leather shoes with a sole nailed. Thus, the water that got into it flowed out, the shoes were ventilated and dried quickly.
From the farmers, the manner of wearing such boots passed to the foresters, and only then they began to be worn by representatives of the aristocracy, who put on brogues for hunting. Even then, the upper part of the boots became two-layer, while perforation was applied only to the upper part, so that water would not completely get into them.
Then, designers became interested in boots, which were gaining popularity, and turned the perforation into a shoe decoration. So, they turned into golf shoes, which even the Prince of Wales himself wore, which ensured their popularity all over the world.
In the 20th century, perforation lost its practical significance and remained only as a decorative element. Later, women's versions of these shoes appeared.


Now there are several of the most common types of these boots:

• full brogues that are fully perforated. The toe represents English letter W.
• semi-brogues, in which perforations are located along the seams, and the toe looks like a medallion.
• quarter brogues - boots with perforations only along the seams.

On this moment they are one of the most fashionable and popular varieties of boots, both among men and women. These shoes go great with jeans. However, it must be borne in mind that brogues do not go well with formal suits, and, therefore, are not at all suitable for business meetings.

Medium/Luxury: Church's, Grenson, Oliver Sweeney, Cheaney, Loake, Barker, Crockett & Jones, John Lobb, Tricker's, Mr Hare, O'Keeffe.
Available: ALDO, ASOS, Ask The Missus, Ted Baker, Dune, KG by Kurt Geiger.