Creating paper tanks may be of interest not only to boys, but also to girls. Firstly, such figures will be great toys for them. Secondly, the very process of creating a figurine arouses unprecedented interest in children, develops motor skills. And thirdly, many parents, during the process of forming such figures, tell their children about the great wars and their features, involving the kids in the history of their state. So, how to make a tank out of paper and where to find the layout and drawing?

Creating paper tanks may be of interest not only to boys, but also to girls

The T 34 paper tank corresponding to the real car can be glued together using ready-made reamers. To do this, you first need to print on thick paper the required sweep. Then you should cut out all the drawn details.

To make T 34 from a sweep, you must follow the instructions:

1. Fold lines should be found on the cut elements. A ruler is applied to each of them, and then the free edge of the paper is lifted and ironed. This results in an even fold.
2. After all the folds are marked, you can proceed to gluing the model.
3. The first step is to glue the main body of the tank. To do this, it is advisable to use transparent acrylic glue or quick-drying PVA.
4. Then all secondary parts are glued to the body.
5. Next, you can move on to the gun. First of all, its base is glued together, and only after that the gun is supplemented with secondary elements. The finished model is glued to the main body of the combat vehicle.
6. After that, the caterpillars are assembled. First, the inner circles are made, and only after that they are framed by a single caterpillar strip. Finished caterpillars are attached to the sides of the hull.

It is worth considering that there are various scans of the T 34 tank, which may differ from each other in color and conventionality. If you can print only a black and white version of the machine, before assembling it, you should color it using acrylic paints. Such processing of cardboard will allow the future toy to acquire the appearance of a tank with a natural coating.

Gallery: paper tank (25 photos)

Tank IS 7 made of paper

To make this tank, you should also use the finished scan.

1. All elements of the sweep are cut with a clerical knife.
2. Next, using a ruler, folds are made at all places marked for this purpose.
3. A support structure for the body is being prepared. It is made of two rectangles installed parallel to each other and fixed with 3 transverse strips located at an equal distance from each other.
4. A body with a circle cut out in it is glued onto the resulting base.
5. The body is glued on the sides, niches for the caterpillar are formed. The tank bottom is being formed.
6. The basis for the cannon installation is being made. It is done in the same way as for the case. A manufactured tower is installed on the hull. A machine gun and additional elements are glued to the tower.
7. Next, tracks are made: middle ones are smooth, rear tracks are with teeth.
8. Tracks are glued to the bottom of the main body, fastened with a caterpillar track.

This model has a rather high assembly complexity, therefore, when creating it with children, it is necessary to provide them with extensive assistance. When assembling it with children, you can abandon several small parts, thereby simplifying the gluing process.

How to make a T 90 tank out of paper?

T 90 can be made using the origami technique. To do this, you only need paper: an A4 sheet and a small piece of paper for notes.

T 90 can be made using the origami technique

How to do:

1. First, an A4 sheet is folded. First of all, he bends in half lengthwise.
2. The perpendicular sides of the sheet are bent, connecting with each other. First, the short side is applied to the bottom long, and then to the top. Similar manipulations should be performed on both sides of the sheet.
3. The sheet is turned over. The corners of the short side are bent to the ends of the crosses formed from the fold line.
4. The sheet is turned over and folded along the lines obtained, forming the basic shape of a double triangle.
5. The long sides are folded towards the middle so that the resulting double triangles are on top of them. The result is a double arrow.
6. The newly folded edges are folded over to the outer sides of the rectangle.
7. The side corners of one of the triangles are bent to the top.
8. The workpiece is turned over and conditionally divided into 3 parts so that, as a result, the top of the folded triangle touches the middle of the base of the opened one.
9. The free corners of the triangle bend inward.
10. The "ears" from the previously bent triangle are set into the resulting pockets.
11. The result is a tower.
12. A small sheet of paper is folded into a cylindrical barrel using a knitting needle or a culinary skewer.
13. The barrel is inserted into the hole in the tower and glued.

The figure assembled in this way can be decorated using thick paints, felt-tip pens or pencils.

How to make a tank from origami modules?

To create tanks, you can use the assembly scheme, which offers a modular origami. To begin with, the assembler will need to prepare 1688 triangular modules.

How to assemble:

1. The first thing is going to the tower. Her first and second row are closed in a circle. Each row consists of 30 modules.
2. The workpiece is turned inside out, supplemented by a third layer consisting of a similar number of elements. In this way, the tower is built up to 8 layers.
3. The ninth row is assembled from 30 modules, but they should be installed backwards.
4. Next, you need to proceed to the tracks. A chain of 4 rows is made, each of which has 50 modules.
5. On the fifth row, 46 elements are used. The reduction should be carried out in places where the caterpillar is bent.
6. 7 row consists of 46 elements installed back to front.
7. The same scheme is used to create the second caterpillar.
8. For each caterpillar, 3 wheels are made. To do this, a circle is made of 2 rows, each of which involves 10 modules. The figure is turned inside out and completed with 5 rows.
9. The wheels are placed inside the caterpillar. These elements are connected by a middle bar made of 34 rows: 1 - 5 modules, 2 - 4 elements. Then the rows alternate.
10. A slightly bent part is inserted between the tracks.
11. A tower is placed on top.
12. The cannon is made of 20 rows, the width of which alternates: 1 row - 2 elements, 2 row - 1. The last three rows increase to 4, 3 and 4 elements.
13. The machine gun is inserted into the tower.

Model of the German tank Landkreuzer P.1000 Ratte (project)

In 1942, Krupp engineer Edward Grote proposed to Hitler that a tank weighing 1,000 tons should be built. It was planned to install two ship guns with a caliber of 280 millimeters on the tank. In order for the tank not to fall into the ground under its own weight, it was supposed to install tracks 3.5 meters wide on it. The final dimensions of the land cruiser were 35 meters long and 14 meters wide.
It was planned to equip the giant tank with two MAN V12Z32 / 44 diesel 24-cylinder engines with a power of 6,256 kW (8,500 hp) each or eight Daimler-Benz MB 501 10-cylinder diesel engines with a power of 1,472 kW (2,000 hp) each. ). Presumably, the estimated speed of movement could be about 40 km / h. At the end of 1942, the drawings of the tank were ready, which received its own name - "Ratte" (rat).

Despite the fact that the tactical value of this tank was not great, Hitler still authorized its design. A little later, another version of the tank weighing 1500 tons was proposed, which was called the Landkreuzer P.1500 Monster. It was supposed to use engines from submarines. However, in 1943 the Ministry of Armaments and Munitions closed both projects.

Tank MS-1 (T-18) is the first mass and serial Soviet tank, which was completely developed in Soviet Russia. Some design solutions were adopted from French and Italian machines, but the MS-1 was superior to foreign counterparts in many technical parameters.

The first Renault FT tanks were unloaded in the port of Odessa along with French and Greek infantry units on December 12, 1918, and on March 18, 1919, four tanks were captured. One of the tanks was sent to Moscow as a personal gift to V.I. Lenin, and three were taken to Kharkov. V.I. Lenin really liked the trophy, and he decided to show it at the May Day parade in Moscow. After that, a decision was made on the production of tanks in the RSFSR.

The first 15 tanks were manufactured in 1920-21 at the Krasnoye Sormovo plant in Nizhny Novgorod. Each of the machines was given its own name.

From 1928 to 1931, about 1000 MS-1 (T-18) tanks were mass-produced. In 1938, the tank was upgraded. But according to the results of field tests, this modernization did not give the desired results.
To date, about 20 MS-1 tanks have been preserved, which are on display in various museums and in the form of monuments.

Despite the fact that the tank with the "cat" name "Leopard" was designed for a very long time, it was never embodied in metal.
VK1602 "Leopard" was supposed to be the only representative of a new class of armored vehicles "gefechtsaufklärer" ("reconnaissance and combat"). It was developed as a replacement for the VK1303 tank and a further development of the experimental VK1601 tank (Pz.Kpfw II Ausf.J). In 1941, MAN began work on the project and received a contract for the supply of 5 pre-series copies. At the end of November, drawings were ready for the construction of a wooden model of the machine.

Simultaneously with MAN, Daimler-Benz was engaged in similar developments.
In 1942, it was planned to release the first production Leopard, and then reach the rate of 20 tanks per month. But customer requirements have changed, and the first copy was never released. At the beginning of 1943, the final cross was put on the development of VK1602, since it no longer met the requirements of the military.

However, some developments of the VK1602 Leopard tank served as the basis for the creation of other armored vehicles.
On the this moment there are several small-scale plastic models of this tank.

In the 20s of the last century, the command of the American army recognized the M1917 tank, which at that time was in service, obsolete and decided to create an improved light tank weighing no more than 5 tons. For this purpose, engineers from Cunningham, which at that time produced popular caterpillar tractors, were attracted. After getting acquainted with foreign designs (primarily the British Medium Tank Mk.II), a prototype of the T1 light tank was created. Field tests of the prototype showed that the tank required numerous changes in design, as the tractor past made itself felt. Although the tank could reach a record speed of 29 km / h for that time, the high-tech chassis could not cope with various obstacles on rough terrain.

The next prototype T1E1 received an improved hull design and was put into service in 1928 with the assignment of the M1 index. After military trials, the T1E2 modification appeared, which had a more powerful engine and a modified turret.
The latest modification of the T1 was the E3 variant. But all these upgrades did not allow the T1 tank to be put into mass production. To date, only one copy of the T1E2 tank has survived.

During the Second World War, many interesting vehicles based on the T-26 tank were created at industrial enterprises both in our country and abroad. One of these designs is a self-propelled unit, which was produced by the workers of the besieged Leningrad. But very little information about these armored vehicles has been preserved. In the documents of the 124th tank brigade, which was formed in Leningrad in September 1941, there is the following entry: "The brigade has 37-mm guns - 5, two of them on the T-26 chassis." But what these self-propelled units looked like, unfortunately, could not be established.

Also, on the basis of the T-26, self-propelled guns with a 76-millimeter regimental gun of the 1927 model were made. The gun had an armored shield that provided front and side protection for the crew. They were made at the plant of handling equipment named after Kirov.

According to the documents, they passed as SU-T-26, T-26-SU, SU-26 or simply as SU-76. According to the report, 14 self-propelled units were produced. All of them entered service with the tank brigades of the Leningrad Front. As of May 17, 1942, the 220th Tank Brigade had four 76-millimeter mounts based on the T-26, which were in operation until 1944.

After the First World War ended and Germany found itself in the role of the "losing side", harsh terms of surrender were imposed on it. Under the terms of the treaty, Germany lost about 90% of its heavy weapons. But later, the allied commission of the victorious countries allowed the construction of a small batch of armored vehicles. On March 28, 1928, the Reichswehr command announced a competition for the construction of a tank weighing up to 12 tons. According to the project documentation, the tank was called VK 31.

Three major companies (Daimler-Benz, Krupp and Rheinmetall-Borsig) took part in the competition. But later Daimler-Benz withdrew from the competition. Rheimetall engineers had no experience in building a tank chassis and therefore used the undercarriage from a caterpillar tractor-transporter. Krupp engineers did not trust the tractor chassis and decided to develop an original chassis design.

The Soviet Union also took part in the formation of the German tank forces. In December 1926, an agreement was signed on the creation of a Soviet-German tank school. But later, Soviet military experts decided that the VK 31 was of no interest to the Red Army.
In total, four tanks were built, which were used in Germany as training vehicles.

Before the start of the Second World War, the German secret services repeatedly received reports about the Soviet miracle tanks, which had exorbitant technical data. After the Germans saw the Soviet KV tank, they finally believed in the possibility of the existence of tanks of unprecedented sizes in the USSR.

First, German engineers began to design the design of a breakthrough tank, which received the VK 70.01 index. It was later renamed VK 72.01 (K) and given the designation Pz.Kpfw. Löwe ("Lion"). In June 1942, the Lion project was closed, as Hitler had the idea of ​​​​building a new super-powerful Maus tank.

The contract for its development was signed with Professor Porsche. According to the terms of reference, the Mouse was supposed to have a weight of 160 tons, and was armed with two guns (150 and 105 mm). But in the end, the weight of the tank turned out to be 188 tons, which greatly hampered its movement on bridges.
Two prototypes of the heavy-duty Maus tank were made, but they did not have time to test them in real combat conditions. One of the tanks was blown up, and the second was partially dismantled.

Both prototypes went Soviet Union. They were carefully studied and sent to the USSR. Later, from the remains of two tanks, it was possible to assemble one, which is now on display at the tank museum in Kubinka.

The NC index in the marking of French tanks was planned to be replaced by armored vehicles, which were supposed to replace the outdated Renault FT-17.

In 1923, Renault signed a contract to develop two prototype tanks. They were given the name NC-1 and NC-2. Both tanks were almost the same. During the construction of prototypes, the FT hull was used, installing a more powerful engine and a new chassis. The composition of the crew and the layout of the tank remained the same. In field trials in 1926, the NC-2 prototype showed a top speed of 18.5 km/h. This was a record figure for all French tanks at that time. Fuel consumption was also reduced, which increased the range of the tank. The use of a new caterpillar made it possible to increase the smoothness of the ride. And yet, after all the upgrades to the chassis, the tanks were notable for their low cross-country ability in sand and mud. The first NC-1 prototype was also tested, but the French army refused it.

The experience of building tanks NC-27 and NC-31 was very interesting to specialists from other countries, including Soviet tank builders. On the skeleton of the NC-27, the T-19 tank was manufactured in the USSR, but later the serial construction of this tank was abandoned.

During tests of an experimental KV tank in the battles on the Karelian Isthmus in 1939, it was revealed that the armor protection of the new tank proved to be excellent. But the 76-mm gun could not cope with the numerous concrete fortifications of the enemy. It was decided to equip four KV tanks with large-caliber guns. It was decided to install a 152-mm M-10 howitzer of the 1938/1940 model on the new KV. A new turret was created specifically for this gun. large sizes. So the KV heavy tanks were divided into two types "a tank with a large and a small tower." Later they were given the designation KV-1 and KV-2.

But it was not possible to check how the new guns would behave on the Karelian Isthmus, since the main strip of Finnish fortifications had already been destroyed. However, numerous flaws in the components and parts of the new tank were discovered.
At the beginning of June 1941, 134 KV-2 tanks were in service. But there were about 20 combat-ready of them.

And yet, the fascist invaders were terribly afraid of meeting with the KV-2, since they did not have guns capable of seriously resisting the armored vehicle.

The last time the tank took part in the battles near Moscow in the winter of 1941-1942. Only one copy of the KV-2 has survived to this day, which is located in the Central Museum of the Armed Forces in Moscow.

The Vickers Medium Mk.I tank was created by Vickers in 1922-1923. At first it qualified as a light tank. But later, with the advent of lighter tanks, it was reclassified as a medium tank. The Mk.I was the first mass-produced turret-mounted tank produced in England.

Serial production was established from 1923 to 1925. It was then replaced by the more modern Medium Mark II tank developed from it. How many armored vehicles of the Mk.I type were produced exactly is unknown. The total number of Mk.I and Mk.II was 168 vehicles, most of which were tanks of the latter type. In this regard, it can be assumed that the number of Mk.I could be several dozen pieces, about fifty.

The Vickers Medium Mk.I medium tank was put into service with the British Royal Tank Forces in 1924 and withdrawn from service in 1938.

There were several modifications of this tank. In addition to the basic modification, vehicles were produced with slightly increased armor thickness, with a new rotary commander's cupola, with the replacement of a 47-mm cannon with a 95-mm tank howitzer, and some others.

After the end of the bloody battles on the Kursk Bulge, a group of Soviet scientists began to study and analyze the characteristic damage caused by shells hitting tanks. It turned out that various parts of the tank turret and hull were damaged in different ways. To answer all the questions of interest, the design of a new tank was started.
All work was entrusted to two design bureaus: Experimental Plant No. 100, which was headed by Zh.Ya. Kotin and A.S. Ermolaev, as well as the Chelyabinsk Kirov Plant, headed by N.L. Dukhov and M.F. Balzhi.

So a completely new model of a breakthrough tank was born.
The heavy tank IS-3 (object 703) had a flattened turret with a 122-mm D-25 gun, original for its time. And the large angles of the turret contributed to a greater ricochet of armor-piercing shells.

In May 1945, the first experimental batch of IS-3 tanks left the factory floor. But they did not have time to visit the battles. There is an opinion that the IS-3 participated in the battles with the Kwantung Army in August 1945. On September 7, 1945, 52 IS-3 tanks marched along the Charlottenburg highway at the parade of allied forces in Berlin.

The Soviet heavy tank IS-3 was mass-produced until the middle of 1946. A total of 2311 armored vehicles were produced.

Back in the 1920s, Soviet super-heavy tanks were being designed. However, before the start of the Great Patriotic War this question was raised rather sharply. On April 7, 1941, the Council of People's Commissars and the Central Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks issued a decree on the development of super-heavy tanks KV-4 and KV-5. The design of the tanks was entrusted to SKB-2 of the Kirov Plant under the leadership of Zh.Ya. Kotin.

When creating the project of the KV-5 tank, the drawings of the KV-4 were used, which were prepared by N.V. Tseits. He became the head of the further design of the 100-ton KV-5. In order for the huge tank to fit in width on the railway platform, it was decided to make the tower of the car high, and the height of the hull was reduced to 0.92 m. Two regular diesel engines of 600 horsepower each were used as a power plant. At the end of July 1941, the workers of the Leningrad Kirov Plant made some components and parts of the future tank on their own. But the work had to be curtailed, since the Nazis had already come close to Leningrad. It was planned to continue work after the evacuation of the plant to Chelyabinsk. But after the evacuation, all forces were directed to improving serial armored vehicles and increasing their output.
Work on the creation of a heavy tank KV-5 was completely stopped.

With the help of this article, you will learn how to make a tank out of paper with your own hands. This instruction includes 2 options for making such crafts. They vary in complexity and technique. The first master class is quite simple and is quite suitable for beginners. The second is laborious and complex. If you don't have any experience with origami, try an easier job first.

A paper tank sounds serious enough. It seems that it is very difficult to make such a craft. And this is not so at all! With free time and some patience, you can easily create it. Read on and you will learn how to make a paper tank with your own hands.

Materials and tools:

• paper plain or color A4;
• gray pencil;
• a thin metal ruler;
• PVA glue or stationery;
• scissors.

How to make a simple tank out of paper

This craft is easy to make and perfect for beginners. To make it, you will need one sheet of A4 colored paper, a small piece of paper in a contrasting color, scissors and a pencil.

Production time - 20 minutes
Difficulty level is easy.

Step 1: make folds
Take a standard sheet of A4 paper.


Fold it in half lengthwise.


Wrap the upper left corner to the bottom edge. Iron the folds well and unfold.


In the same way, fold the bottom left corner to the top edge. Expand.


You should get cruciform folds.

Step 2: Form the Flaps
Lay the craft vertically. Fold the right corner down.


Divide the bottom side into 2 equal parts.


Leave the first part in place, and wrap the second to the lower right corner.


Repeat on the left side.


At the top in the foreground, you should get a regular triangle.


Repeat on the other side.

Step 3: Taper the Middle
Fold the bottom side up to the center line.


Fold the paper exactly in the middle and turn it back to the bottom edge.





Iron all the folds with an iron ruler so that they are even and neat.

Step 4: form the tower
Fold the bottom corner of one of the triangles up.


Raise the right one as well.


Twist the craft into a cylinder with all the formed elements up.


Insert the "arrow" inside the square.


Fold the other two corners of the “arrow” into the bottom pockets so that you get the following (see photo below).

Step 5: Add a Muzzle
Take a small rectangle of a contrasting shade.


Roll it into a thin tube.


Insert the tube inside the tower. Ready!

You can also make this tank by watching the following video.

How to make a paper tank with a rotating turret

To create this origami you will need:

• 1 sheet of A4 paper,
• scissors,
• pencil,
• iron ruler,
• glue,
• a thin object for smoothing small wrinkles.

Production time - 1 hour
Difficulty: medium

Step 1: Shape the Undercarriage
Take a piece of A4 paper.


Fold it in half, and then quadruple. Cut the sheet into 2 equal parts in the middle, that is, into 2 long strips (in the photo, these strips are doubled in width).


Take one of the strips and divide it into 2 parts in width, that is, in fact, you should have 2 quarters of an A4 sheet in your hands. Set aside one quarter, and work with the second.
Fold the quarter sheet in half.


Expand. Fold the bottom side up to the center line.


Bend the right side to the center as well.


Roll the craft into a cylinder.


Push this cylinder down.


Bend all the corners of the resulting figure by about 0.5 cm.


Fold all the corners inside the shape.

Iron the folds with a metal ruler to make them more pronounced.


Wrap the top flap towards the center of the figure.


Repeat on the other side.


Slightly lift the right semicircular pocket at the bottom. Make it longer.

Repeat this on all 4 sides.


Tuck the extreme flaps on both sides to the top point.


Flip the piece. Fold the corners up about 0.5 cm.


Repeat on all 4 sides.


Pull the folded corners back down.


Place the side elements perpendicular to the axis.


On the previously folded folds, bend up the craft around its perimeter.

Chassis is ready.

Step 2: Protect the undercarriage
Take the second quarter from an A4 sheet.


Fold the top edge about 0.6 cm, then fold it over again. You need to wrap the paper in one direction 2 times. When folding, it is convenient to use a metal ruler.

Repeat on the opposite side.


Place protection on the undercarriage. The width of the first should be approximately 0.1-0.2 cm longer than the second.


Bend the extreme corners along the folds on one side by about 0.5 cm.


Fold the corners inward along the curved lines.

Iron the folds with a ruler.


Turn the end element up so that the “horns” stick out to the side.


Turn the craft over and insert the chassis into it. The latter should fit comfortably and tightly in the protection.


Mark a line with a pencil for the second edge of the protection.


Fold the paper inward at the marked point.


Wrap the corners on the second side of the protection by about 0.5 cm. Fold the corners inward along the marked folds.

Tuck the rear flaps down, reducing their width by approximately 2 times. Make them longer.


Repeat on the other side.


Take protection and chassis. Put the first on the second and check how they fit together. If necessary, correct minor flaws by lengthening or shortening the protection accordingly.

Step 3: Make the Fixing Element
At this stage, you need to make a fixing element for running gear and protection, on which you will put the tower. Also, with its help, the tower will be able to spin in different directions.
Take the second half from sheet A4.


Fold the right edge to the center line. Unbend.


Cut a quarter of this piece along the folded line.


Fold the paper in half lengthwise and mark the folds along the edges.


Fold both edges towards the center along the marked folds.


Fold the corner down to the right.


On the opposite side, also bend the corner so that you get a triangle in the foreground.


Expand. You should get cruciform folds.


Fold the side flaps inward along the marked folds so that a triangle comes out in the foreground.

Fold the left corner up from the bottom side.


Repeat on the other side. You should have the following figure.


Wrap the bottom side to the center line.


Fold the top side towards the center as well.


Place the craft on the chassis so that the square element is exactly in the center.


Next, you begin to bend around the figure around the chassis. Make sure that it repeats all the contours of the element placed inside.


Wrap the craft around the chassis completely. Cut off excess length.

Insert one edge of the element into the other so that the square is located at the top in the center point.




————————————————-
Disconnect the mount.

Place the guard on top of the chassis.

Wrap the indicated parts again with an element with a square at the top. Some actions will be difficult enough to perform, but do not rush, act carefully and you will succeed.

The lower part of the tank is ready!

Step 4: Make a Tower
Cut out a square with a side of approximately 6-7 cm. Bend it along both diagonals.

Fold the paper in half.

Fold the corners down to form a perfect triangle.

Flip the shape.

Fold the left corner up to the top.

Repeat on the other side.

Rotate the piece. Bend the side corners to the center line so that they are slightly shifted up.

Insert the lower flap on the right side into the pocket located at the bottom of the side flap.

Insert the right flap into the pocket as well. You should end up like this.

Flip the piece.

Pull the inside pockets up slightly.

Turn the pocket inside out slightly.

Repeat on the other side.

Fold the top corner down. You have made the basis for the tower.

Step 5: Make the Tower Guard and Muzzle
Cut out a piece of paper measuring 8 cm x 6 cm. For this work, you can use paper of the same shade that you previously used or use a contrasting color. We used a different shade and it really looks pretty! If for each element we use different shades paper, it will look original and fresh!

Fold the piece in half across the width. Next, you need to wrap this paper three times along the points indicated by the arrows in the photo below.

Here the paper is already folded into thirds.

Open one spread. Wrap the lower left corner from bottom to top. In the same way, symmetrically wrap the right corner to the top. Pull the middle up and fold the craft in half. Pull the inner valve gently up.

Expand the piece.

Decorate the third part on the other side of the craft in the same way.

Make sure that the internal valves are placed symmetrically.

Take your tower.

Insert one edge of the green guard into the inside pocket at the top of the tower.

From the underside, insert the guard into the inside pocket at the bottom of the turret. Trim off any excess length.

Tuck the cut corner in the middle.

Place the protection on the tower and fix both elements. Use some glue if needed.

Cut out a small rectangle along the circumference of the tower.

Roll it into a thin strip.

Bend one end of the strip perpendicularly and fold it in half to form a small triangle at the top.

Insert this end in between the green guard and the tower.

Wrap the strip around the tower. Insert its second end on the other side of the protection. If necessary, secure the work with glue.

From a thin piece of paper, twist the tube and fix it with glue. It will be a doo.

Put the tower on the chassis. To do this, insert the square located at the top of the undercarriage into the inner pockets at the bottom of the tower.

Place the muzzle inside the turret and fix it with glue.

Work is ready!

We tried to tell and show you the technique of making this tank in as much detail as possible. But if you still have questions and you don’t fully understand how to make this paper tank correctly, watch the following video.