Openwork sweater knitting from sectional dyeing yarn

From sectional dyeing yarn turned out fishnet sweater knitting interesting shelves

Openwork sweater knitting with zigzag holes in the pattern

The size: European, 38.
Materials: 4 skeins of Fio Cisne Cake (100% acrylic, 100g/250m), needles #4.
Knitting density: 20 stitches * 28 rows = 10*10 cm.

How to knit 2 together knit to the right: we introduce the right knitting needle first into the second, then into the first loop and we knit two loops together with the front one behind the front wall.
How to knit 2 together knit to the left: remove the loop, 1 front, then throw the removed loop over the knitted one.
Double reduction: remove the loop, knit the next two loops together knit to the right, throw the removed loop over the knitted one.

Openwork sweater knitting, job description:

Back: Cast on 81 sts.

Knit exactly 16 rows.

Before: Cast on 81 sts.
Knit with an elastic band 1 front / 1 purl - 6 cm.
Further knit: 8 loops in garter stitch, 65 loops in a pattern according to the scheme, 8 loops in garter stitch.
At a height of 12 cm, start decreasing on each side one loop in each 14th row - 4 times.
Knit exactly 16 rows.
Start adding on each side one loop in each 14th row - 3 times.
At a height of 42 cm, close for armholes on each side in every second row 1 time 5 loops and 2 times 1 loop.
At a height of 10 cm from the armhole, we close the central 15 loops for the front neck.
Knit the front sides separately, continue to close from the side of the neck in every second row 1 time 3 loops, 1 time 2 loops and 4 times 1 loop.
At a height of 20 cm from the armhole, we bury all the loops.

Sleeve: Cast on 81 sts.
Knit with an elastic band 1 front / 1 purl - 8 cm.
Further knit: 1 loop in garter stitch, 39 loops in a pattern according to the pattern, 1 loop in garter stitch.
Increase on each side one loop in each 10th row - 12 times.
Knit new loops with a garter pattern.
At a height of 48 cm, close on each side in every second row 1 time 5 loops and 11 times 1 loop; in every third row 6 times 1 loop; again in every second row 1 time 2 loops and 1 time 3 loops.
Close all loops.

Assembly: sew all the details.

You can often find that any non-smooth-dyed yarn is called melange. But not all variegated yarn is melange. One of these colorful threads is sectional dyed yarn. In this article I want to pay special attention to sectional dyeing yarn, to consider its properties and features of knitting from such yarn.

Knitting from sectional dyeing yarn allows you to make both a colorful fabric and a striped one, which cannot be said about knitting with a melange thread. Knitting from melange yarn allows you to make only a colorful fabric.

For sectional dyed yarn, the yarn is dyed after spinning. Color palette, as well as the length of the color segment can be different. But there is a certain rule: even if the length of the color section is different, the color alternation must always be repeated.

Sectional dyed yarn allows needlewomen to get a huge variety of patterns without using many multi-colored balls. But it should be noted that knitting from such yarn is very difficult, because when you start knitting from sectional dyeing yarn, you often cannot predict what kind of pattern you will end up with. Even knitting a sample will not always be able to help you with this.

According to the length of the color segment, the sectional dyeing yarn is divided into:

• Small-section yarn;
• Medium section yarn;
• Long sectional yarn.

The short length of the color segments allows you to get a variety of colors when knitting. geometric figures. Such yarn behaves unpredictably. It is difficult to repeat a model from a magazine from it, sloppy spots often form in the wrong place. The color solution in symmetrical details is asymmetrical, the side seam is clearly visible in the product. When changing the number of loops, the pattern is distorted. Randomly scattered color spots sometimes spoil the silhouette of the product.

Long sections of color segments when knitting make it possible to obtain stripes. Such a yarn behaves quite predictably.

It should be noted that knitting from the same ball gives a different result in the pattern when crocheting or knitting.

What to look for when buying sectional dyeing yarn

Firstly, of course, you need to pay attention to the length of the color segment, because the color pattern of the future product largely depends on this. The shorter the color segment, the more colorful the product will turn out. With long color segments, the product will turn out to be striped.

When choosing yarn, be sure to consider what you plan to knit from it. Small-section and medium-section yarn is suitable for small items such as scarves, hats or children's things. Medium-section and long-section yarn will be good for jackets and sweaters, various capes, as well as for stoles and shawls.

Secondly, pay attention to the ratio of color segments in the skein. Different colors in a skein can have different lengths. If a single color is preferred in a ball - it has a longer segment or is repeated more often, then this color in the product will set the tone of the entire product.

Thirdly, it is advisable to purchase sectional dyed yarn in large skeins, and also pay attention to the direction of the color change sequence when winding in skeins. All this will allow you to make the transition from skein to skein imperceptible.

Rules for knitting from sectional dyeing yarn

You can knit from sectional dyeing yarn as from ordinary plain-dyed yarn, without thinking about what kind of pattern you will end up with. In this case, the pattern can be chaotic, giving the product originality and originality.

But if you want to get a specific pattern, then when knitting, you should pay attention to some rules when working and follow them:

• All balls must be wound in the same color sequence.
• To eliminate the possibility of pattern distortion in symmetrical parts, start knitting them from the same color section.
• In order to get the intended color spots in the product, carefully study the length and sequence of the color segments.
• In order to choose a pattern that is more successful for the product, tie several samples, starting each with a different color segment. This will help you reduce the risk of getting a mismatched pattern ensemble.
• After you have picked best option pattern, you need to adjust the pattern of the product to the pattern repeat. Often the sectional yarn sets the product model. Therefore, do not take a product with a very complex cut and predetermined color effects. The simplest details are the rectangular details of the back, shelves and sleeves.
• If the calculated width of the parts is not a multiple of the number of rapports, then slightly narrow or, on the contrary, expand the part. Try playing with transfer side seam to adjust the rapport: slightly narrow the back and expand the front. At the same time, do not forget to adjust the armhole too.
• Often it is the first row that causes a certain difficulty, since it is difficult to adjust the desired turn in the right place. Therefore, it is better to dial the number of loops more (about 15 - 20 loops more) than necessary, and then remove the extra tail.
• Keep an eye on the color section of each new ball. Start knitting from a new ball each time with the same color, even if it is necessary to remove a whole color repeat.
• If the thread has a marriage in the form of a knot, a break, an elongation, or vice versa, a shortening of the length of the dyeing of the segment, then it is better to remove the defective rapport and start from the next one.
• Small failures in the pattern (approximately 1 - 3 loops) can be compensated for by knitting density: knit the loops tighter or looser. Due to the variegation of the canvas, it will be imperceptible.
• When changing the number of loops when knitting darts, armholes, necks, certain difficulties arise. For beginner knitters, it is advisable to take a model with rectangular armholes and necks. The reduction of the armhole and neck is made a multiple of the rapport. This allows you to save the pattern. If at the same time the neck is too wide, then it can be adjusted various types finishing, for example, make additional strapping, add lace, add a placket, etc.
• It is better to knit sleeves with rectangular ones with a width that is a multiple of the pattern repeat.

Difficulties begin when the number of loops changes: knitting necks, armholes, darts. For beginners, I recommend choosing models with a simple cut, without darts, with rectangular armholes and a neckline. Then we make the reduction of the armhole strictly by 1 repeat of the pattern (by big size- for 2 rapports) - this will maintain its regularity. We do the same with the neck.

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If the neckline is too wide, it can then be adjusted with additional strapping, lace and other types of trim. The sleeves are also knitted rectangular, their width should be a multiple of the pattern repeat.

More difficult option- products with vertical tucks. On the sample the jacket has waist darts, formed by reduction - an increase along the side line and in the middle of the parts. The number of loops becomes variable, moreover, the changes affect the center of the canvas. Naturally, rapport gets lost.

In my case, I did not fight it, but made it a design element. Vertical stripes on the hips and waist are replaced by a colorful pattern at the waist, imitating a wide belt. Above the “belt”, the drawing again enters regular rapport. The sleeves also feature a variegated pattern to keep the theme going. Also, with a colorful pattern, it is easier to knit the head of the sleeve (the sleeves were bandaged, because the fit did not suit).
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Please note that the patterns on both shelves and back are almost the same (only the motley "belt" in front is slightly wider). And since along the edges we make a turn in the middle of the rapport, then the side seam is completely invisible. Compare with magazine model
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Further, the product has deep vertical chest darts and \/-neckline. If the decrease in loops in each row is about a quarter of the rapport (in my case, 4 loops), then the pattern is not disturbed, but begins to shift - the stripes become oblique. We also try to make the most of this effect.
Red crosses indicate the reductions that form the chest tuck
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Additional adjustments on the edges may be required:
1.addition-reduction of 1-2 loops (the unevenness of the edge will then hide the seam)
2. Pulling out part of the thread until rapport is restored (as in the previously described case with marriage).
3. Sometimes you can allow a shift of half a rapport - then in some areas, instead of alternating white-blue, we get two white or two blue rows in a row (this is almost imperceptible in the figure).

It is extremely difficult to ensure complete symmetry on both sides of the figured panel. Therefore, we make every effort to maintain a regular pattern in the most visible areas. In our case, a flawless neckline is necessary, and slight deviations can be allowed on the armhole line. It is this edge that we use for correction.
We also make a decrease along the armhole line based on the requirements of the pattern along the neckline.
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As a result, the stripes on the shelves from vertical gradually become slanted, which wonderfully emphasizes the line of the neckline and chest. Agree that it is difficult to knit such a pattern by simply alternating several colors of yarn. It would take longitudinal knitting with a complex system of increases and decreases. In the case of using a sectional, these stripes are due to the own print of the yarn and the model lines of the jacket and arose almost automatically. All that was required was an understanding of the "character" of the drawings and a reasonable adherence to it.

I hope that my experience will help you in some way!