How to embroider using the semi-cross technique. Half-cross - the most interesting in blogs Cross-stitch half-cross

The technique of "half-cross" is rapidly gaining popularity. Previously, she was remembered when embroidering small items paintings to give the canvas additional relief and credibility. Now semi-cross stitch for beginners is necessary, because this method is chosen for the execution of the work as a whole, without thinking about combined seams. The technique refers to the basics of needlework, let's master it.

Modern patterns for embroidery have become detailed and fancy, allowing you to get the result as close as possible to the original image. But the work process has not changed: the craftswoman works with her hands using a needle and thread.

The basic techniques for implementing complex circuits also remain the same:

Cross;
Half cross;
Tapestry stitch.

Basic Information

A half-cross is one diagonal of a cross, half of a cross stitch.

Stitch direction:

From left to right;
From right to left.

Usually the manufacturer indicates the direction of the stitches on the diagram. it important recommendation: the logic and meaning of embroidery, its outlines and expressiveness depend on the direction.

It is necessary to master the technique of applying a half-cross in any direction. This will allow you not to get confused in the execution of stitches and avoid distortion of the pattern.

For the design of the background of the product, the direction of the stitches is of fundamental importance. Do as you please.

When working on canvas with dense threads, the “half-cross” technique is very similar to tapestry embroidery. Many manufacturers of ready-made sets are trying to achieve a tapestry effect, recommending craftswomen to perform a semi-cross. The embroidered canvas looks bright and expressive, and it is easier to embroider with a semi-cross stitch than with a classic one. tapestry stitch.

Subtleties of work

On the “face” of the product, all the flaws in the embroidery are clearly visible. Therefore, do not pay attention to the "wrong side" of the work. She may have faults. Design the front side accurately, get excellent results.
When working with this technique, the thread tends to twist. Let the thread hang freely. Under the weight of the needle, it will quickly unwind.
When embroidering with a semi-cross from the “inside out”, single vertical columns are formed, and not double, as with the “cross” technique. Therefore, the number of stitches should be larger, and the ends of the threads fixed from the wrong side should be longer.
When unrolled, the canvas is deformed at the points of clamping. This may distort the drawing. Remove the base from the frame at every break in work.
If canvas is not being used, do not tighten the half-crosses too much. Holes are formed on the fabric, spoiling the appearance of the product.
The background of the embroidery will shimmer and sparkle if you match the threads of melange shades to a light monochromatic canvas. This interesting effect will revive the dullest canvas.
Now the principle of alternating tapestry technique and half-cross is gaining momentum. The combination looks advantageous when working with diagonal stitches: the embroidery retains its shape, the stitches lay flat, the working thread is used sparingly. You just need to make sure that the rows made by different techniques alternate periodically.

Step-by-step guide to embroidery in the technique of "half-cross" with a photo

Materials for work:

Canvas;
Embroidery needle;
Mouline thread of any color for honing technique.

Procedure:

We choose a simple scheme at will. We stretch the threads into the eye of the needle, connect the ends. The first stitch comes from the lower left corner of the square, in the figure it is marked #1.

We bring the needle to the “inside out”, the end of the thread hangs freely.

Next, we stretch the thread to the upper right corner of the square, as shown in Figure No. 2. This is how the first stitch is laid. The rest is embroidered in the same way, the scheme is shown in the photo. Lay the free end of the thread along the canvas on the wrong side of the work.

We perform a certain number of stitches in the first row, then we make the next column. Even and odd rows alternate until the sketch pattern ends.

Half-cross and tapestry stitch: combining techniques

The seams are similar in execution technique. The "face" of the work looks the same. But on the "wrong side" the difference is clearly visible.

Consider a photo:

The double technique is used to balance the distortions of the embroidery.

Double technique details:

We embroider the first row with a semi-cross. The second row is a tapestry stitch. We stretch the thread from the lower left corner to the upper right. We continue according to the described scheme.

Technique "painting"

The “painting” technique is based on a semi-cross. The painting is unique in that it allows you to "sculpt" from the stitches contour sketch. The stitches go in a continuous chain, folding into a picture.

Embroidery is done in two steps. Interlining stitches indicate the approximate basis of the sketch. Performed by alternating front and back stitches.

Then we fill in the empty spaces of the interlining stitches, putting the “puzzles” of the pattern together.

The painting technique is reminiscent of a “backstitch” stitch or backstitch stitches.

With such a basic seam, many needlewomen begin their skill training. Stitches are laid alternately and without gaps. A seam is used to make contours and small parts of a sketch.

Beadwork and half-cross technique

For embroidery of paintings with beads, the “monastic” seam is traditionally used. This technique practically repeats the semi-cross embroidery.

We perform the front stitches diagonally, not forgetting to string the beads. On the "wrong side" vertical stitches are obtained.

This technique is quite suitable for beginner craftswomen.

Thus, the "half-cross" technique is the basis of successful needlework. It needs to be mastered.

Video tutorials to help you master the half-cross technique

Cross-stitch is undeniably very, which conquers many from the very first embroidered cross. You create a special comfort in the house with the help of your offspring. I do not want to lead you to the idea that over time this activity gets boring. This is not so, but often it seeks its manifestation in other techniques ...

Today, I want to talk about technology tapestry embroidery. Why are tapestry paintings so valuable? What do you need to know about technique? Why are the concepts of a half-cross and a tapestry stitch taken as one? Do I need special materials to create tapestry embroidery?

Like most types of man-made art, it originates from ancient times. It is very difficult to say exactly when tapestry products appeared.

The very word "tapestry" appeared in France in the 17th century, when the Gobelin brothers' manufactory was opened there. The products that they began to produce were called in their honor - tapestries. For a long time, this product was distributed throughout Europe.

AT modern world, the popularity of classical interiors, gave a new impetus to the development of tapestries. Paintings, embroidered tapestry technique are a unique piece of beauty and sophistication. Once upon a time, tapestry paintings were very expensive and were available only to very wealthy people. They were created exclusively by hand, and sometimes months or even years of painstaking work took one job. Our time, modern technology has largely reduced the production of tapestries, making them available to the public.

Technique: tapestry stitch.

Technically embroider tapestry (Petit-point) seam presents no difficulty. The front part of the tapestry stitch is the same as that of the half-cross. Therefore, they are very often confused and mistaken for one. This fact makes us compare them with each other, choosing the most optimal one in one particular case. The main difference between these seams is their underside.

The tapestry stitch consists of slant stitches, which are formed due to the fact that the needle passes obliquely from the wrong side of the fabric. It seems to wrap around the weaving thread diagonally and each front stitch lies more compactly and neatly (compared to a half-cross).

Before you begin to work with tapestry stitch, practice embroidery on a piece of canvas and train yourself to “think tapestry seam". It sounds very strange, but you have to understand the logic of how to lay down each stitch, and constantly check yourself, looking inside out.

Special materials.

As with regular embroidery, you will need:

thread, needle, scissors;

scheme for embroidery: special or for cross-stitch;

canvas, though special.

Threads can be used absolutely any, this will allow the embroiderer to use threads from their stocks. Along with cross-stitch, future tapestry paintings can be purchased in special sets. Alternatively, download via the Internet, and the usual cross stitch pattern is also suitable. When choosing patterns for embroidery, it should be taken into account that tapestry embroidery involves the complete filling of the canvas, without gaps.

For embroidery in this technique, a special canvas is used: very small - the smaller the hole, the better (for example, 1 cm = 10 cells). But not in all cities it can be found on free sale, so focus on a canvas with a uniform weave. Aida refers to this type of canvas, but for our purposes it is unsuitable. On it, the seam turns out to be too rough and sloppy, in which case it is advisable to embroider with a half-cross - but is this really our goal?

It is recommended to use such seeing canvases as: Bellana, Lugana 25, Hardanger 22, Davosa 18. As practice shows, the canvas is provided by the manufacturer - Zweigart (Germany), but Romanian, Russian and Belarusian canvases are also worthy of attention.

Another concept that is inextricably linked with tapestries- stramin. This kind of canvas requires a separate consideration, in terms of application, so, in this case, I will limit myself to a quote.

Stramin is a tough canvas for embroidering tapestries and carpets. A dense fabric for needlework made of very uniform and tear-resistant fibers - a special type of weaving and processing. Two threads in the warp and two in the weft (according to the principle - one thread on top, one on the bottom) form clear open cells. Used for embroidering rugs, pillows, tapestries, bags, etc.

Tapestry stitch embroidery very easy to perform. It does not require special skills, and any craftswoman, interested in this technique, can quickly get to work, having previously bought a special canvas for tapestry embroidery. It should also be taken into account that the consumption of threads when embroidering with a tapestry seam increases by 2 times.

The method of "parking" seems to many mysterious, complex and incomprehensible.

Bundles of multi-colored threads, bred on front side embroideries look scary. It seems that you will definitely get confused in this fringe. But when you delve into the logic of the system, it is quite possible to understand, learn and successfully use this method. Don't be afraid to park!

Believe me, talking about “parking” and explaining this method is much more difficult than embroidering. The basic principle of "parking" - embroidery goes in a certain order.

Rows or squares.

Only those characters that are nearby are embroidered with one thread:

one by one vertically or horizontally when embroidering in rows,

Or within a certain area-square when embroidering with parking squares.

Then the thread is brought to the front side of the embroidery exactly at the point where you will need to start embroidering the next character in the next row or square. And the thread “parks” down, or up, or to the side, depending on which direction the embroidery is going.

All characters in a row are embroidered with petit in strict order, one character after another, without skipping or jumping over a character. The embroidery goes as if weaving a fabric or knitting a canvas.

First, I decide on the direction of even and odd rows. This direction will be observed throughout the embroidery.

* My odd rows go from left to right, each petitinka is embroidered from the upper right corner to the lower left.

* Even rows - from right to left (the stitch goes from the lower left corner to the upper right).

I start from the top left with the first row of a ten-cell square according to the scheme.

I fix the desired thread, bring it out and embroider symbols that go in a row (one or more) until the symbol changes.

I immediately look where the nearest symbol of the thread with which I started is located. If in the same row, no further than 3-4 characters, then I pull the thread along the wrong side and bring it to the side to the stitch start point, pull it to the face, lower it down and stick the needle into the fabric, leave it.

If the symbol is far away in the same row, then I look down, I see where the nearest same symbol is, and I bring the thread to the stitch start point in a row or several rows below.

I also pull it out to the face at the start of the stitch, lower it down, straighten the thread, stick the needle into the embroidery fabric below.

For the next character in order, I take the desired thread, fasten it, bring it to the face, sew the number of stitches required according to the pattern, and again pull it along the wrong side and bring it to the face at the desired starting point of the nearest same character. It turns out that in the process, in each next row, my threads (with needles) are each at the beginning of the stitch of their character. I take a parked thread with a needle, embroider a symbol, and bring it out to the next one, lower the thread, stick the needle. The most important thing when embroidering "parking" is to understand the meaning and learn how to accurately determine the point where the thread is brought to the face. The point at which sewing of the next character should start.

Unlike cross stitching, tapestry stitch has its own peculiarity. Depending on whether the row is even or odd, the start of the stitch will be either in the upper right corner or in the lower left corner of each character. If there are several characters side by side according to the scheme, then you need to output the thread taking into account the direction of embroidery: - to the extreme left character (upper right corner] in an odd row, - or to the extreme right (lower left corner] in an even row. In practice, this is not so confusing as it seems from the first reading!

Sometimes it can turn out that two different threads hang from one point, one will lie up obliquely, the other in a row downward obliquely when their turn comes.

I sew in a row strictly in order one after another, it is easy and accurate to lay the stitches, because you don’t have to sew between the stitches already embroidered, but the embroidery goes on as if knitting, one loop after another in a row.

About the path of each thread.

By the location of the symbols on the diagram, it is possible to trace which way each thread will go. In what order will the characters be embroidered, where and how is it better to move with one thread to the next row.

Petit embroidery goes from top to bottom in zigzags. When embroidering “parking”, it happens that several threads of the same color (numbers) hang in a row at a certain distance, so as not to make long horizontal broaches in a row.

It is advisable to adhere to a strict order of embroidery in rows. But sometimes, in the course of embroidering, it is clear that, for example, suddenly one character is located inconveniently to the side so that if you embroider in order, you will get either long broaches, or in general you need to embroider it as a single character. Then I make an exception and embroider the errant symbol out of order, making a small “jump” out of order. But these are already nuances that you comprehend gradually, in the process ...

The first few rows after each stitch have to stop and painfully think. Then, gradually, when you delve into the logic of the system, it becomes easier. When the characters are already memorized, you get used to quickly determining the desired needle exit point, when you get used to park the threads down so that they do not cross or get tangled, so that it is convenient to take the right needle.

You don't need to color the diagram. It is enough to cross out an already embroidered row with one line. There is no need to mark parked threads with needles either, because the thread always hangs at the beginning of its own symbol. And when her turn comes, I embroider the required number of characters in a row, determine the starting point of the next stitch, bring the thread to the face, park, and the thread for the next character is already ready. And so on.

The embroidery speed did not increase for me, it even turned out slower than when embroidering randomly by color. But I have achieved my goal. The texture of the embroidery turned out to be smooth, all the stitches are one to one even, the color transitions are very smooth. The wrong side also turned out to be more uniform in thickness and more beautiful,

What I didn't like about this method.

The more colors (symbols) involved in embroidery, the more frequent color changes, the more singles, and the more complex the section of the pattern, the less fun it was for me to embroider using the parking method, and it was more difficult than when embroidering by color.

Yes, and in itself, embroidery strictly in rows still seemed boring. But the "parking" method itself is good and interesting, and can be very useful when embroidering certain kinds of designs. I do not regret that I mastered this method for tapestry stitch, I hope someday I will try to embroider with "parking" and cross stitch.

Often beginner embroiderers ask the question:
“What is the difference between a semi-cross and a petit, because on the front side of the embroidery they look almost the same, and what technique should I choose for embroidery?”

	Petite tapestry stitch (petit point)	Half cross Diagonal stitch (half cross)
Main difference: View of the stitch from the inside	The purl stitch in the form of a long oblique diagonal runs along the greatest distance between the exit points of the thread on the face	The purl stitch in the form of a short straight stick runs along the shortest distance between the exit points of the thread on the face
Sewing order
Where is used	It is used when embroidering designs with a continuous uniform sewing of the entire surface. When creating images whose schemes are designed in a tapestry style (Embroidered tapestries - what is it?)	A half-cross is used most often for the appearance of a "tapestry" effect, at a lower cost of threads. Also for quick background stitching. Or, to achieve a three-dimensional effect of embroidery, crosses and semi-crosses alternate
What fabrics are embroidered on	On special tapestry fabrics (stramin, cordova, etc.) or fabrics of uniform (basket) weaving through one thread.	On block weaving fabrics such as Aida, evenly across two warp threads. Less often on uniform or special fabrics through one warp thread
	Stitches lay evenly and beautifully by wrapping the warp thread with embroidery thread. The embroidery is tight. The wrong side is thick, it is easier to hide the tails in the tapestry wrong side when changing colors when embroidering.	Embroidery is faster and easier. Less thread consumption (about 1/3). The embroidery is thinner and more elegant.
	More thread is gone. When embroidering on thick fabrics with 3 or more threads, the wrong side is too thick, which makes it difficult to embroider. It is difficult for an embroiderer who is accustomed to cross-stitch to relearn from a half-cross to a petit.	The stitches are less even and neat. When embroidering evenly with one warp thread, the stitches may fail if the thread tension is slightly higher when embroidering.
Trouble	Skewed at the finished embroidery. Visible differences between even and odd rows: rows embroidered in different directions (if the embroiderer has a habit of tightening the stitches).

How to learn to embroider quickly, beautifully, economically, using the pros, reducing the cons and avoiding the troubles inherent in both embroidery techniques?

Recently, an increasing number of embroiderers use both of these stitches in one embroidery. Embroider combining petit-point and semi-cross in one embroidery .

What is it for?
And what advantages can a combination of petite and half-cross give us?

1. Convenience in embroidery, beauty and uniformity of facial stitches

It is known that the easiest way to embroider and get perfect stitches is possible when we embroider : "from empty to full".
That is, we start the stitch - we always bring the needle from the inside out to the face into a free hole in the fabric, and finish the stitch (the needle goes from the face to the inside out) into the hole in the fabric where there is already a thread of the stitch embroidered earlier.

When we embroider in rows exclusively with a semi-cross (or exclusively with petite), then after one row we have to start a stitch by pushing the thread out into the occupied hole, which often leads to deformation of previously embroidered stitches, and requires effort when pushing the needle.

An illustrative example:
The embroidery goes from top to bottom. Rows.
We have a row of blue semi-crosses embroidered from left to right.
We sew the next row from right to left (arrow)
If we continue to embroider with semi-crosses, then we have to push the needle and thread onto the face into the already occupied hole of Aida ( 1 ).
What is especially difficult when embroidering Dimensions with a semi-cross in 5 or 6 threads on 18 Aida

If we, embroidering in a semi-cross, having reached the end of the row in one direction, we want the next row (embroidering in the opposite direction), we also start the stitch from a free hole ( 1 ), then we will have to embroider our facial half-crosses with diagonal purl stitches - that is, petite (tapestry stitch)

2. Especially the convenience of alternating rows of petite and half-cross is felt when you embroider lane parking method(or in mini-rows in diagonal parking or free parking "spots".

When embroidering each subsequent row from one end (to sew from a free hole), long horizontal or diagonal broaches are obtained that can tighten the boundaries of the embroidered sections. By embroidering alternating half-cross and petite, we can embroider in different directions (left to right or right to left) making vertical short safe broaches when moving from row to row at the shortest distance.

The number of cross broaches is reduced, and, therefore, the wrong side becomes more accurate and uniform.

!!! With the ability of the embroiderer to control and gently lay the stitches

3. The skew of the finished embroidery is reduced or completely eliminated.

4. Rows embroidered in different directions look the same, and the embroidery fabric is uniform and smooth.

BUT! When embroidering with a semi-cross-petite, it is especially necessary to monitor the tension of the thread when embroidering.

The habit of pulling the thread while embroidering, or tightening the stitches, as well as embroidering on unprepared fabric (wrinkled, poorly stretched) can lead to the opposite effect. Skews will remain, and the differences between petite and semi-cross rows will be ugly noticeable on the finished embroidery.

Therefore, to embroider quickly, beautifully, pleasantly, economically

Carefully prepare the fabric for embroidery (ironing, stretching on the frame (hoop) " "
We train our stitch technique, learn to embroider softly and evenly, laying the stitches evenly and neatly. " "

* *

Why can a half-cross be different from a petite?
With a half-cross, a short stick on the inside, if it does not lie freely, but has tension, tightens the cell, and we get a cell that is not square, but even tenths of a millimeter, but still rectangular, and visually the difference is noticeable.
And when petita, even if it is still tightened (although this is much more difficult to do), the screed will go in the opposite direction and slightly diagonally, so that the deformation will be much less and perpendicular to the direction.
Therefore, for some embroiderers, the petit row differs from the semi-cross row.

Why does embroidery especially perk with a half-cross?
The same forceful tension of the facial stitches affects here. As a result, this unimportant and scanty at first glance distortion of each square of fabric multiplied by the number of rows gives this strong distortion of the whole work.

Therefore, I consider it extremely important to learn how to embroider so that the thread (either on the front of the stitch, on the wrong side, or in the broach) lies flat, even, but without tension. Then the embroidery will not be skewed in any case, and the stitches will be the same.

A stitcher can be a great help at first with thread tension if there is a habit of tightening too much.
When a stitch is sewn, then tighten it, taking into account the needle inserted under it, then pull the needle out, and do not tighten the stitch anymore, along the way, a small excess of thread in the front stitch will go to the wrong side and compensate for the excessive tension of the thread there.

The technique of cross-stitching or cross-stitch and half-cross is one of the most famous and popular in folk art.

Fig.23. Seam "half-cross" and its variants

These techniques have been known for a long time, but became widespread in the second half of the last century.
You can embroider with these stitches by counting the threads on a plain weave fabric, along the canvas and along the contours indicated by dots. You can embroider on transverse and longitudinal threads pulled out of the fabric, forming squares. In each square, one stitch of a half-cross or one cross is embroidered.

During work, it is necessary to monitor the counting of the threads of the fabric and the same direction of the upper stitches, the smaller the size of the cross, the more elegant the embroidery.
There are several types of cross stitch. These include: a semi-cross, or painting, a straight and oblique cross, elongated and expanded, single (from two crossing stitches), double (Bulgarian) and three-stitch.

Semi-cross, or painting, is a double-sided seam, consisting of thin lines formed by uniform straight (horizontal and vertical) and oblique (diagonal) stitches. It is performed in two steps. First, a series of slip stitches are sewn from left to right, indicating the outline of the pattern and small details on the outside and inside of the outline. One stitch falls from the face, the other from the inside. After a row
passed to the end, the working thread in the opposite direction (from right to left) fills the gaps between the stitches and embroiders the details of the pattern located inside the contour (Fig. 23). The dotted line in the figures shows the direction of the stitch from the inside out.

AT folk embroideries a semi-cross, one of the most ancient seams, is used both as an independent one and as an additional one in combination with other seams.

Fig.24. Varieties of the seam "semi-cross": a - scale; b - cell; in - checkers; g - bushes; d - bird

Varieties of the semi-cross include stepped stitches, scales, cages, checkers and many others (Fig. 24, a-c).
Based on the “painting” seam, many decorative patterns performed by one or more thread colors (Fig. 24, d, e). The semi-cross stitches are used to embroider the outline of individual motifs of the pattern, made with other stitches: satin stitch, gouging, cross stitch, etc.

Fig.25. Seam "nail file": a - in two moves; b - in one move; c - three-row "nail file"

The seam "nail file", or "krivulka", is performed both in two moves (Fig. 25, a), and in one move (Fig. 25.6). It can be in one, two or three rows (Fig. 25, c), with decoration.

Fig.26. Seam "tricky"

The “tricky” seam is performed with half-cross stitches in two moves. First, the outline of the figure is embroidered, and then, during the reverse stroke, the pattern area is filled (Fig. 26).
In folk embroideries of women's shirts, there are small rectangles of such a seam, embroidered with white thread and located in vertical stripes along the length of the sleeve.

Fig.27. Seam "oblique stitch": a - stitches of different slopes and lengths; b-d - the sequence of performing rows of "oblique stitch"; e, e - changing the direction of the stitches depending on the pattern; g - ornamental strip

Bias stitch - a deaf one-sided counting seam. It is performed with oblique, tightly adjacent to each other or spaced at some distance from each other with stitches of different slopes and lengths (Fig. 27, a). Elongated stitches are performed on an even number of fabric threads, where the number of threads horizontally (4-8-12) is twice as much as vertically (2-4-6). The slope of individual stitches and the slope of the entire row depend on the number of fabric threads taken under the stitch in both vertical and horizontal directions.

Oblique stitch can be used to embroider straight (narrow and wide) stripes, individual figures, or to fill entire ornamental motifs with it.
For the first stitch (1-2) of the inclined row, which is sewn from the bottom up, from the edge of the pattern contour, that is, the place where the working thread (1) is fixed, four threads of fabric are counted from left to right horizontally and two up vertically. The needle is inserted from the face into the fabric (2) and removed from the inside from right to left through two threads (3). .The second stitch (3-4) is made again from left to right two threads above the first, the third (5-6) - two threads above the second, etc. (Fig. 27b).

To start the second row, which is sewn from top to bottom, the last stitch of the first (or previous odd) row on the inside is finished from left to right (6-7), and the bias stitch is placed from top to bottom from right to left, inserting the needle into the upper punctures of the stitches of the previous row (Fig. 27, c, d).

Depending on the pattern, you can change the direction of the stitches by making a cross-shaped turn and moving to the right side (Fig. 27, e), or start embroidering from the center of the figure (Fig. 27, f). The sequence of embroidering an ornamental strip with an oblique stitch is shown in Figure 27,g. The course of work resembles a one-sided counting surface.

Fig.28. Seam "chicken ford"

This type of embroidery is found among many peoples and has its own local names, color, richness of ornamental motifs. In the folk embroideries of Belarus, Russia, Ukraine, two- and three-row diagonal stripes were made with oblique stitches, complementing the patterns with satin stitch, cross, puncture, cutting. Sometimes they have local names - "chicken" or "magpie ford" (Fig. 28).

Fig. 29 The seam is underdressed: a - in one row; b - from individual stars; c - solid row with asterisks

Underdress seam - a deaf one-sided seam, which is performed according to the count of threads with vertical stitches, underlined with short transverse ones. From the inside, horizontal stitches are formed. In Russia, it is done with red, white and yellow threads on blue dye or black velvet; on kumach with orange, yellow and black woolen or linen threads.

It is combined with bias stitch, cross stitch, tinsel, sequins and gold embroidery.
Patterns made with a hemstitch seam consist of openwork stripes of different widths, triangles, and rhombuses. This seam emphasized the ornamental stripes of other seams and filled the planes of geometrized figures.

A narrow strip with a width of one row is performed in two steps (Fig. 29, a). First, according to the count of the threads of the fabric, the vertical stitches of the row are laid from left to right. In the last stitch, the working thread is brought out one thread above the lower end of the stitch. On the needle from left to right, from bottom to top, the previous (penultimate) stitch is hooked and the working thread is pulled through. From right to left, from top to bottom, pry the penultimate stitch and insert a needle and thread from top to bottom, left to right, under the previous (third) stitch. Alternately wrapping the vertical stitches with a working thread either from above or from below, a decorative strip of any length is embroidered.

A row of individual stars is made on two rows of vertical stitches in four moves (Fig. 29.6). When moving from one figure to another, a long horizontal stitch is made from the inside out. First, put the top row of vertical stitches from left to right, and then from right to left - the bottom one. Next, the upper stitches are intertwined with a working thread from left to right, and the lower ones, returning, from right to left. A more complex pattern of the underdress seam is given in Figure 29, c.

Fig.30. Underseam options

The Ukrainian "upper-rogue" is made in one, two or more rows, creating openwork figures from rhombuses and triangles, which are used as independent embroidery or as an addition to other seams (Fig. 30, a). The Estonian "torn" and "kyula", the Ukrainian "runner" (Fig. 30, b, c) are created on the basis of interlacing oblique stitches and are very colorful.

Fig.31. One-sided oblique cross in two moves: a - options

One-sided oblique cross is made with two cross stitches. It is embroidered in horizontal, vertical and diagonal directions in two steps in old folk embroideries (Fig. 31, a - c)

Fig.32. Cross oblique in one move: a - options

and in one step in modern ones (Fig. 32).

Fig.33. Cross elongated: a - in height; b - in length; in - in the pattern

An elongated oblique cross is elongated in height (Fig. 33, a) or in length (Fig. 33.6), that is, it is embroidered along a rectangle whose sides are not equal (Fig. 33, c). Used in decorative embroidery.

Fig.34. Loose cross: a - pattern; b - move; c - in two moves

The sparse (loose) cross was very popular in embroideries in the first quarter of our century. openwork patterns, embroidered with black threads on a white canvas, very much resembled lace and were called "trick" or "false lace" (Fig. 34, a). It is performed in two ways: in one step (Fig. 34.6) and in two steps (Fig. 34, c). The second method is double-sided, it is used in embroidering blouses made of transparent fabrics, on towels and curtains, where the wrong side is visible.

Fig.35. Oblique cross: a - two-row; b - three-row

A two-row cross (oblique) consists of two rows of oblique crosses arranged in a checkerboard pattern (Fig. 35, a). It is used in the design of the edges of products (hemming cuffs, napkins), can complement the pattern in combination with other seams. A three-row cross is also made in the same way (Fig. 35.6).

Fig.36. cross straight

Fig.37. Double-sided cross in four moves: a-d - execution sequence

The straight cross consists of two mutually perpendicular stitches. It is embroidered in one and two steps (Fig. 36, a-d). It is used as an independent one or in combination with an oblique cross (Fig. 36, e).
Until the middle of the XIX century. embroidered mainly with a double-sided cross, the same from the face and from the inside of the fabric. It is found in ancient embroideries and on products, the wrong side of which should look as beautiful as the front side: on towels, curtains, blouses.

A double-sided cross was performed in four moves and in one.
Double-sided cross in four moves. First, they sew a “nail file” in two moves from left to right and right to left (Fig. 37, a, b), and then overlap its stitches with cross stitches of the third move from left to right (Fig. 37, c) and finish the row, blocking the gaps from the face and wrong side from right to left (Fig. 37, d). You can end the row with half stitches.

Fig.38. Double-sided cross in one move: a-g - sequence of execution

The double-sided cross is embroidered in one step each separately from left to right with the help of additional half-stitches. They start work from the middle of the future cross, securing the tip of the thread (1 - 2), then lay the first diagonal double-sided stitch from the lower left corner to the upper right (2-3) and remove the needle at the beginning of the stitch (3-4) (Fig. 38a). The second diagonal stitch is passed with the help of a half-stitch from the lower left corner to the middle of the cross (4-5) and the needle is brought out to the lower right corner (5-6) (Fig. 38.6). The second double diagonal stitch is laid from the lower right corner to the upper left (6-7), and the needle is brought out from the inside to the lower right corner of the cross (7-8) (Fig. 38, c). The second cross and all subsequent ones begin with a double diagonal stitch from left to right (8-9-10) (Fig. 38.d). Then, with the help of a half-stitch (10-11) and a purl half-stitch (li-12) (Fig. 38, e), they move to the second diagonal stitch (12-13-14) (Fig. 38, e) and all subsequent ones (Fig. 38, and).

Fig.39. Double cross: a-6 - execution sequence; c - three-stitch cross

The double cross, or Bulgarian (Fig. 39) is made with four stitches: two diagonal and two mutually perpendicular in one step. First, an oblique cross is embroidered, and then vertical stitches are applied from top to bottom and horizontal stitches from left to right (Fig. 39.a). The second way is shown in Fig. 39.6.

The Bulgarian cross is used in the embroidery of napkins, pillows, panels, carpets, paths. It is found in folk embroideries, complementing patterns embroidered with a small oblique cross.
In the folk embroideries of Polissya, an oblique cross “in three stitches” is very often found (Fig. 39, c).

Fig.40. Pigtail and braid; a-e - the sequence of execution of the pigtail; e.g - braided line

Embroider a pigtail from left to right with equilateral or elongated crosses. First, an oblique cross is made, and then an oblique stitch is laid from the lower left corner to the right upwards at a distance of one cross. The needle is pierced into the upper right corner of the cross and the cross is covered with a long stitch (Fig. 40, a, 6). Picking up threads of fabric on the needle, either at the top or at the bottom, they sew a pigtail of the desired length and direction (Fig. 40, c-d).

The braid is made from crossed stitches of the same length (Fig. 40, f, g) and is used as an addition to other stitches.
many varieties. Their name comes from a special round hoop used for embroidering large silk carpets and bedspreads and similar to a large drum - a tambour. In the embroideries of Ancient India, Iran, Rome, Greece, Syria, handmade tambour stitches were known even before our era, and embroideries with tambour stitch from the Pazyryk burial mounds date back to the 11th - 3rd centuries. BC. Over time, the art of tambour embroidery spread to many countries in Europe and Asia. At the end of the XIX century. special machines were invented that performed 17 types of chain stitches.

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One of the most famous and popular in folk art. These techniques have been known for a long time, but became widespread in the second half of the last century. You can embroider with these stitches by counting the threads on a plain weave fabric, along the canvas and along the contours indicated by dots. You can embroider on transverse and longitudinal threads pulled out of the fabric, forming squares. In each square, one stitch of a half-cross or one cross is embroidered. During operation, it is necessary to monitor the counting of the threads of the fabric and the same direction of the upper stitches, than smaller size cross stitch, the finer the embroidery.

Cross stitch and semi-cross stitch there are several types. These include: a semi-cross, or painting, a straight and oblique cross, elongated and expanded, single (from two crossing stitches), double (Bulgarian) and three-stitch.

Semi-cross, or painting, is a double-sided seam, consisting of thin lines formed by uniform straight (horizontal and vertical) and oblique (diagonal) stitches.

It is performed in two steps. First, a series of slip stitches are sewn from left to right, indicating the outline of the pattern and small details on the outside and inside of the outline. One stitch falls from the face, the other from the inside. After the row has been completed to the end, the working thread in the opposite direction (from right to left) fills the gaps between the stitches and embroiders the details of the pattern located inside. The dotted line in the figures shows the direction of the stitch from the inside out. In folk embroideries, a half-cross, one of the most ancient stitches, is used both as an independent stitch and as an additional one in combination with other stitches. Varieties of the semi-cross include stepped stitches,

Scale (rice a), cage (rice b), checker (rice c), bush (rice d), bird (rice e) and many others.

On the basis of the “painted” seam, many decorative patterns have been created, made with one or more thread colors. The semi-cross stitches are used to embroider the outline of individual motifs of the pattern, made with other stitches: satin stitch, gouging, cross stitch, etc.

The seam "nail file", or "krivulka", is performed both in two moves and in one move.

It can be in one (rice a), two (rice b) and three (rice c) rows, with decoration.

The “tricky” seam is performed with half-cross stitches in two moves.

First, the contour of the figure is embroidered, and then, during the reverse stroke, the area of the pattern is filled. In folk embroideries of women's shirts, there are small rectangles of such a seam, embroidered with white thread and located in vertical stripes along the length of the sleeve.

Bias stitch - a deaf one-sided counting seam.

It is performed with oblique, tightly adjacent to each other or spaced from each other at a certain distance with stitches of different slopes and lengths (Fig. a). Elongated stitches are performed on an even number of fabric threads, where the number of threads horizontally (4-8-12) is twice as much as vertically (2-4-6). The slope of individual stitches and the slope of the entire row depend on the number of fabric threads taken under the stitch in both vertical and horizontal directions. Oblique stitch can be used to embroider straight (narrow and wide) stripes, individual figures, or to fill entire ornamental motifs with it.
For the first stitch (1-2) of the inclined row, which is sewn from the bottom up, from the edge of the pattern contour, that is, the place where the working thread (1) is fixed, four threads of fabric are counted from left to right horizontally and two up vertically. The needle is inserted from the face into the fabric (2) and removed from the inside from right to left through two threads (3). .The second stitch (3-4) is made again from left to right two threads above the first, the third (5-6) - two threads above the second, etc. (Fig. b).
To start the second row, which is sewn from top to bottom, the last stitch of the first (or previous odd) row on the wrong side is finished from left to right (6-7), and the oblique stitch is placed from top to bottom from right to left, inserting the needle into the upper punctures of the stitches of the previous row (Fig. ,G).
Depending on the pattern, you can change the direction of the stitches by making a crosswise turn and go to the right side (fig. e), or start embroidering from the center of the shape (fig. e). The sequence of embroidery of the ornamental strip is shown in Figure G. The progress of work resembles a one-sided counting surface.

Underdress seam - a deaf one-sided seam, which is performed according to the count of threads with vertical stitches, underlined with short transverse ones.

From the inside, horizontal stitches are formed. In Russia, it is done with red, white and yellow threads on blue dye or black velvet; on kumach with orange, yellow and black woolen or linen threads.
It is combined with bias stitch, cross stitch, tinsel, sequins and gold embroidery.
Patterns made with a hemstitch seam consist of openwork stripes of different widths, triangles, and rhombuses. This seam emphasized the ornamental stripes of other seams and filled the planes of geometrized figures. A narrow strip with a width of one row is performed in two steps (Fig. a). First, according to the count of the threads of the fabric, the vertical stitches of the row are laid from left to right. In the last stitch, the working thread is brought out one thread above the lower end of the stitch. On the needle from left to right, from bottom to top, the previous (penultimate) stitch is hooked and the working thread is pulled through. From right to left, from top to bottom, pry the penultimate stitch and insert a needle and thread from top to bottom, left to right, under the previous (third) stitch. Alternately wrapping the vertical stitches with a working thread either from above or from below, a decorative strip of any length is embroidered.

A row of individual stars is made on two rows of vertical stitches in four moves (Fig. b). When moving from one figure to another, a long horizontal stitch is made from the inside out. First, put the top row of vertical stitches from left to right, and then from right to left - the bottom one. Next, the upper stitches are intertwined with a working thread from left to right, and the lower ones, returning, from right to left. A more complex inflated suture pattern is shown in Figure B.

The Ukrainian “upper-rogue” is made in one, two or more rows, creating openwork figures from rhombuses and triangles, which are used as independent embroidery or as an addition to other seams.

The Estonian “thorn” and “kyula”, the Ukrainian “runner” are created on the basis of interlacing oblique stitches and are very colorful.

One-sided oblique cross is made with two cross stitches. Embroidered in horizontal, vertical and diagonal directions in two steps

in old folk embroideries and in one step

in modern ones.

An elongated oblique cross is elongated in height (Fig. a) or in length (Fig. b),

that is, it is embroidered on a rectangle whose sides are not equal. Used in decorative embroidery.

The sparse (loose) cross was very popular in embroideries in the first quarter of our century.

Openwork patterns, embroidered with black threads on a white canvas, very much resembled lace and were called "trick" or "false lace". It is performed in two ways: in one step and in two steps. The second method is double-sided, it is used in embroidering blouses made of transparent fabrics, on towels and curtains, where the wrong side is visible.

A two-row cross (oblique) consists of two rows of oblique crosses (Fig. a),

arranged in a checkerboard pattern. It is used in the design of the edges of products (hemming cuffs, napkins), can complement the pattern in combination with other seams. A three-row cross is also made in the same way (Fig. b).

The straight cross consists of two mutually perpendicular stitches.

It is embroidered in one and two steps. It is used as an independent or in combination with an oblique cross.
Until the middle of the XIX century. embroidered mainly with a double-sided cross, the same from the face and from the inside of the fabric. It is found in ancient embroideries and on products, the wrong side of which should look as beautiful as the front side: on towels, curtains, blouses.

The cross is double-sided in four moves (rice a-d - the sequence of execution).

First, a “nail file” is sewn in two moves from left to right and right to left, and then its stitches are overlapped with cross stitches of the third move from left to right and the row is completed, overlapping the gaps from the front and back from right to left. You can end the row with half stitches.

The double-sided cross is embroidered in one step each separately from left to right with the help of additional half-stitches.

They start work from the middle of the future cross, securing the tip of the thread (1 - 2), then lay the first diagonal double-sided stitch from the lower left corner to the upper right (2-3) and remove the needle at the beginning of the stitch (3-4). Go to the second diagonal stitch with a half stitch from the lower left corner to the middle of the cross (4-5) and bring the needle to the lower right corner (5-6). The second double diagonal stitch is laid from the lower right corner to the upper left (6-7), and the needle is brought out from the inside to the lower right corner of the cross (7-8). The second cross and all subsequent ones begin with a double diagonal stitch from left to right (8-9-10). Then with the help of a half stitch (10-11) and a purl half stitch (11-12) go to the second diagonal stitch (12-13-14) and all subsequent ones.

This method is a little painstaking and requires attention and accuracy when laying stitches.

The double cross, or Bulgarian, is done with four stitches:

two diagonal and two mutually perpendicular in one step. First, an oblique cross is embroidered, and then vertical stitches are applied from top to bottom and horizontal stitches from left to right (Fig. a). The second method is shown in figure B. The Bulgarian cross is used in the embroidery of napkins, pillows, panels, carpets, paths. It is found in folk embroideries, complementing patterns embroidered with a small oblique cross. In the folk embroideries of Polissya, an oblique cross “in three stitches” is very often found (Fig. c).

Pigtail - a kind of oblique cross, is an addition to other counted seams and masks the connecting seams.

Embroider a pigtail from left to right with equilateral or elongated crosses. First, an oblique cross is made, and then an oblique stitch is laid from the lower left corner to the right upwards at a distance of one cross. The needle is pierced in the upper right corner of the cross and the cross is covered with a long stitch (Fig. a,b). Picking up threads of fabric on a needle, either at the top or at the bottom, they sew a pigtail of the desired length and direction (Fig. cd). The braid is made from crossed stitches of the same length (Fig. e, g) and is used as an addition to other seams.

The technique of "half-cross" is rapidly gaining popularity. Previously, she was remembered when embroidering small elements of the picture in order to give the canvas an additional relief and believability. Now half-cross embroidery is quickly and simply necessary for beginners, because this method is chosen to complete the work as a whole, without thinking about combined seams. The technique refers to the basics of needlework, let's master it.

Learning to cross stitch for beginners: basic information

Basic techniques for implementation complex schemes also remain the same:

Cross;
Half cross;
Tapestry stitch.

A half-cross is one diagonal of a cross, half of a cross stitch.

Stitch direction:

From left to right;
From right to left.

Usually the manufacturer indicates the direction of the stitches on the diagram. This is an important recommendation: the logic and meaning of embroidery, its shape and expressiveness depend on the direction.

It is necessary to master the technique of applying a half-cross in any direction. This will allow you not to get confused in the execution of stitches and avoid distortion of the pattern.

For the design of the background of the product, the direction of the stitches is of fundamental importance. Do as you please.

When working on canvas with dense threads, the “half-cross” technique is very similar to tapestry embroidery. Many manufacturers of ready-made sets are trying to achieve a tapestry effect, recommending craftswomen to perform a semi-cross. The embroidered fabric looks bright and expressive, and it is easier to embroider with a semi-cross stitch than with a classic tapestry stitch.

Subtleties of work:

On the “face” of the product, all the flaws in the embroidery are clearly visible. Therefore, do not pay attention to the "wrong side" of the work. She may have faults. Design the front side accurately, get excellent results.
When working with this technique, the thread tends to twist. Let the thread hang freely. Under the weight of the needle, it will quickly unwind.
When embroidering with a semi-cross from the “inside out”, single vertical columns are formed, and not double, as with the “cross” technique. Therefore, the number of stitches should be larger, and the ends of the threads fixed from the wrong side should be longer.
When unrolled, the canvas is deformed at the points of clamping. This may distort the drawing. Remove the base from the frame at every break in work.
If canvas is not being used, do not tighten the half-crosses too much. Holes form on the fabric, spoiling appearance products.
The background of the embroidery will shimmer and sparkle if you match the threads of melange shades to a light monochromatic canvas. This interesting effect will revive the dullest canvas.
Now the principle of alternating tapestry technique and half-cross is gaining momentum. The combination looks advantageous when working with diagonal stitches: the embroidery retains its shape, the stitches lay flat, the working thread is used sparingly. It is only necessary to ensure that the rows completed different technique, alternated periodically.

We study a step-by-step guide to embroidery in the technique of "semi-cross" with a photo

Materials for work:

Canvas;
Embroidery needle;
Mouline thread of any color for honing technique.

Procedure:

We choose a simple scheme at will. We stretch the threads into the eye of the needle, connect the ends. The first stitch comes from the lower left corner of the square, in the figure it is marked #1.

We bring the needle to the “inside out”, the end of the thread hangs freely.

We perform a certain number of stitches in the first row, then we make the next column. Even and odd rows alternate until the sketch pattern ends.

How to Create a Half Cross and Tapestry Stitch: Combining Techniques

The seams are similar in execution technique. The "face" of the work looks the same. But on the "wrong side" the difference is clearly visible.

Consider a photo:

The double technique is used to balance the distortions of the embroidery.

Double technique details:

We embroider the first row with a semi-cross. The second row is a tapestry stitch. We stretch the thread from the lower left corner to the upper right. We continue according to the described scheme.

Painting technique.

The “painting” technique is based on a semi-cross. The painting is unique in that it allows you to “sculpt” a contour sketch from stitches. The stitches go in a continuous chain, folding into a picture.

Embroidery is done in two steps. Interlining stitches indicate the approximate basis of the sketch. Performed by alternating front and back stitches.

Then we fill in the empty spaces of the interlining stitches, putting the “puzzles” of the pattern together.

The painting technique is reminiscent of a “backstitch” stitch or backstitch stitches.

With such a basic seam, many needlewomen begin their skill training. Stitches are laid alternately and without gaps. A seam is used to make contours and small parts of a sketch.

We make with embroidery with beads and the technique of "semi-cross"

For embroidery of paintings with beads, the “monastic” seam is traditionally used. This technique practically repeats the semi-cross embroidery.

We perform the front stitches diagonally, not forgetting to string the beads. On the "wrong side" vertical stitches are obtained.

This technique is quite suitable for beginner craftswomen.

Thus, the "half-cross" technique is the basis of successful needlework. It needs to be mastered.

Video tutorials to help you master the half-cross technique

Cross stitch is undeniably very interesting activity, which conquers many already from the first embroidered cross. You create a special comfort in the house with the help of your offspring. I do not want to lead you to the idea that over time this activity gets boring. This is not so, but often it seeks its manifestation in other techniques ...

Like most types of man-made art, it originates from ancient times. It is very difficult to say exactly when tapestry products appeared.

In today's world, popularity classic interiors, gave a new impetus to the development of tapestries. Paintings, embroidered tapestry technique are a unique piece of beauty and sophistication. Once upon a time, tapestry paintings were very expensive and were available only to very wealthy people. They were created exclusively by hand, and sometimes months or even years of painstaking work took one job. Nowadays, modern technologies largely reduced the production process of tapestries, making them publicly available.

Technique: tapestry stitch.

tapestry stitch consists of diagonal stitches, which are formed due to the fact that the needle passes obliquely from the wrong side of the fabric. It seems to wrap around the weaving thread diagonally and each front stitch lies more compactly and neatly (compared to a half-cross).

Special materials.

As with regular embroidery, you will need:

thread, needle, scissors;

scheme for embroidery: special or for cross-stitch;

canvas, though special.

It is recommended to use such seeing canvases as: Bellana, Lugana 25, Hardanger 22, Davosa 18. As practice shows, the high quality of the canvas is provided by the manufacturer - Zweigart (Germany), but Romanian, Russian and Belarusian canvases are also worthy of attention.

Stramin is a tough canvas for embroidering tapestries and carpets. A dense fabric for needlework made of very uniform and tear-resistant fibers is a special type of weaving and processing. Two threads in the warp and two in the weft (according to the principle - one thread from above, one from below) form clear open cells. Used for embroidering rugs, pillows, tapestries, bags, etc.

The method of "parking" seems to many mysterious, complex and incomprehensible.

Bunches of multi-colored threads, displayed on the front side of the embroidery, look frightening. It seems that you will definitely get confused in this fringe. But when you delve into the logic of the system, it is quite possible to understand, learn and successfully use this method. Don't be afraid to park!