How to sew a synthetic winterizer on a sewing machine. Nonwoven materials. The most convenient sequence of how to sew a holofiber blanket with your own hands


I am glad that mine and its use in patchwork found a response in the hearts of needlewomen.

This material has its supporters, as well as those who prefer to work with other fillers.

But if the choice of a filler for a blanket or other patchwork product settled on a synthetic winterizer, then it would be nice to take into account its features and know the intricacies of working with it.

  • First of all, you need to make sure that none of the relatives, friends, or those to whom we are going to present our patchwork creation are allergic to it.
  • We use fabric with a dense weave of threads for the patchwork top and the wrong side of your product. So that the synthetic winterizer is guaranteed to remain inside the product.
  • We do not sew from synthetic winterizer those things that will come into contact with hot objects - pot holders, hot coasters, etc.
  • For patchwork products, we use a not very thick synthetic winterizer. At least at first. Let its thickness be no more than 1-1.5 cm (grade 100 and 150, respectively).
  • It is better to steam the synthetic winterizer with an iron to other layers of the patchwork “pie”. That is, put it between the patchwork top and the wrong side and walk on top lightly with a hot iron with steam. The top layer of the synthetic winterizer will melt slightly, “stick” to the fabric. By doing this, we immediately “kill two birds with one stone”: we will reduce the likelihood of the synthetic winterizer fibers coming out through the fabric and in small products we can do without preliminary chipping off the layers of the patchwork “pie” before stitching.
  • The synthetic winterizer can be placed in the product in several layers - in some places - to give special splendor where it is needed according to the author's idea.
  • The filler in the product can generally be made composite, from several layers of different materials, and the synthetic winterizer can be placed in the middle of the “pie”. So you don’t have to steam it, and you can “play” with the relief of the product during stitching.
  • For reasons of practicality, for such products, on which it is supposed to put something later - paths on the table, underplates, decorative napkins- we use only steamed, and therefore flattened, synthetic winterizer.
  • The synthetic winterizer is good for sewing patchwork panels that will not be used as intensively as, for example, patchwork quilts.
Regardless of the patchwork, the synthetic winterizer will also find application. I want to say a few words about him.

So, during a discussion on my blog at the Fair of Masters, the idea of ​​​​using steamed, that is, compacted with an iron, synthetic winterizer as a dummy material was voiced when inventing a shape for a bag. I don't use this method myself, but maybe someone will find it useful.

I used to use a synthetic winterizer when sewing insulated clothes. And, in order to avoid tearing it in “strategic” places during wearing, I folded it together with the lining and pre-quilted it on a typewriter in small squares. And then this “sandwich” was connected with the main fabric of the product.

In any case, start sewing with what is at hand. But don't limit yourself! Try as soon as possible different materials. Now they have a huge selection! It is not necessary to buy them all at once and kilometers :). You can take a small piece for testing. But only by trying this or that material personally, you can form your own opinion about it. And most importantly, to understand which filler is more suitable for which products.

To be continued...

A blanket with an unnatural filler has many advantages over wadded and downy counterparts. Sinteponovoe blanket much lighter than cotton, it is easier to wash than down and it dries quickly. The synthetic winterizer is a neutral material and does not cause allergies. In addition, it is allowed to roll it up tightly and take it with you on a hike, it takes up very little space.

You will need

  • - Sintepon along the length and width of the blanket;
  • - Fabric - 2 squares of a blanket + allowances for seams;
  • – Tailor's ruler and square;
  • - Sewing machine, needles, threads;
  • - Scissors.

Instruction

1. Determine the length and width of the blanket. From a piece synthetic winterizer cut out a rectangle of the required size. It is allowed to sew multilayer blanket- then you will need 2-3 times more synthetic winterizer. If width synthetic winterizer smaller than the width of the upcoming blanket, cut out another strip of the required size and sew to the main piece with a frequent “forward needle” seam. An additional piece is allowed to be stitched, but this is not strictly. Do the same with all other layers.

2. Stack all the pieces on top of each other synthetic winterizer by aligning the edges. If the edge protrudes somewhere, trim it, but be careful not to cut off the excess. Sweep the pieces together diagonally with a needle-forward seam. The stitches can be large. Baste the quilt lining around the edge.

3. Cut out 2 rectangles from the fabric, equal in area to the blanket. Don't forget the seam allowances. True, just as when cutting out a pad, sew pieces of fabric together if the width of the blanket is greater than the width of the material. Sew the pieces by folding them front sides inside.

4. Fold both sheets right sides together. Sew them on one side along the length, then along the width and again along the length, leaving one short side not sewn up. Turn out the resulting cover and iron. Insert the gasket into it synthetic winterizer. Pin the pad in place, carefully matching the sides of the pad with the side seams of the cover. Bend inward the cuts of the unsewn side and stitch, grabbing the gasket.

5. Sew blanket along each side seam, grabbing the pad. Mark a line at a distance of 5-10 cm from all edges and stitch it again. Mark several vertical or horizontal lines and quilt along them blanket. The lines can be slanted, and make up any pattern.

Many housewives usually purchase wadded blankets in the bedroom - products that are familiar in everyday life and allow you to warm up even in a cool room. Cotton is an environmentally friendly material and (as long as it does not absorb a lot of dust) does not actually cause allergic reactions. Meanwhile, these products are heavy and very difficult to care for. As usual, wash cotton blanket in washing machine or manually does not seem valid. However, experienced housewives know how to update this thing and properly care for it.

You will need

  • – Warm water;
  • - laundry soap;
  • - washing powder;
  • - foam sponge;
  • - coarse brush;
  • - stain remover;
  • - cotton wool;
  • - beater;
  • - Excellent dry cleaning.

Instruction

1. Don't erase wadded blanket, completely soaking the product in water. Even if you decide on this "feat" and undertake a large wash, the cotton wool will quickly clump into lumps, and the thing will look ugly and become uncomfortable. You will have to dry a completely soaked product filled with cotton long time, and in cool weather, wet cotton can become a breeding ground for fungi.

2. Remove stubborn contaminants from the surface of a stained blanket with the support of a suitable stain remover. Don't forget to read the information on the product tag and on the packaging. household chemicals- it is significant not to spoil an unstable item with hostile means. Wipe the stain on the blanket with a cotton swab, wetting it in the stain remover. Be diligent in wringing out cotton wool.

3. It is allowed to remove halos of a later removed spot and ordinary dirt by washing certain places under a stream of warm water. Rub them laundry soap or gruel from washing powder. Be diligent to work only with the top surface of the quilt, so as not to wet the filler too much. You can use a coarse brush. Remove dirt and soap scum foam sponge by dipping it in clean water.

4. Dry the cleaned wadded blanket on the light, in extreme cases - at the radiator (but not on the heater itself!). Ultraviolet rays will not only dry the thing, but also ignite it and destroy dust mites in cotton wool. Knock out the product well from dust. During the drying of the blanket, you need to beat the cotton wool several times, acting with a beater and kneading the filler with your fingers.

5. Contact a reputable dry cleaner if your quilt is heavily soiled and needs to be washed thoroughly. Professional equipment is more adapted to work with things that require special care. Typically, a dry-cleaned quilt is treated with ultraviolet rays, which kill microorganisms in the thickness of the fabric and filler.

Useful advice
You should not use a cotton blanket for years, even if you keep it free from clogs and regularly clean it at home and professionally. Cotton wool is a delightful dust collector, which means it is a dust mites accumulator and a source of allergic reactions. In addition, the product will inevitably fall off over time and become thinner. From time to time, you should change the blanket made of cotton; it’s easier and cheaper to buy a more practical thing with synthetic stuffing instead.

For down products, in particular duvets, the down of waterfowl is used extraordinarily. A downy product is allowed and must be washed, because. washing improves their properties, because clean fluff retains more air and heat than soiled. If your favorite duvet has become grubby, you can easily wash it, following a few rules.

You will need

  • Gauze, soap, ammonia,
  • stick, sheet, thin cloth, wax.

Instruction

1. It turns out, remember that duvets should be washed at least once a year. Before washing carefully read the instructions for the product. Compliance with all washing conditions will extend its service life.

2. Thoroughly air out the duvet before washing. Drying the blanket on the star will help get rid of lice insects and a bad stale smell.

3. After that, sew a bag out of gauze. Carefully shift the fluff into it from the cover, and sew it up. In the bath, direct the foam solution: for 10 liters of boiling water, cut 400 g of soap and 1-2 tablespoons of ammonia.

4. Then place the bag in a burning solution (40-50°C). Leave the bag in the solution for 30 minutes. Periodically, during this time, squeeze the bag with your hands.

5. After a while, transfer the bag to the newest solution. To make it, reduce the amount of soap and alcohol. The volume of water must remain the former.

6. After 30 minutes, pull out and wring out the bag perfectly. Then thoroughly and richly rinse it out together with its contents in cool water.

7. Lay out the drying bag on the light. Sometimes beat him with a stick. Down or feathers are not required to fall off.

8. If the feathers do not dry well, take them out of the bag and spread them out on a sheet. After that, place a sheet with feathers on the star.

9. Carefully cover it with a thin cloth and fasten it on four sides. Don't forget to touch the feathers with your hands from time to time.

10. After drying, tuck the down into a duvet cover. Distribute the fluff evenly and do not forget to loosen it with your hands. Make sure that not a single lump remains. You can moisten the cover in soapy foam, dry it and iron it scrupulously. After a similar fabric treatment, the fluff will not come out. With positive care, your favorite blankets will last you long years and retain their qualities from wash to wash.

The padding blanket delightfully retains heat during sleep, as a result of which it is so comfortable to luxuriate in bed. But sooner or later the time comes to wash the blanket, because it accumulates a huge amount of dust and sweat. But many are worried about the same question: is it allowed to wash a blanket from a synthetic winterizer, and if so, how to do it right?

Instruction

1. Probably your blanket has a sewn-in label, which clearly indicates how positively and at what temperature it is recommended to wash the product. Modern washing machines have a huge number of functions and washing modes. In order to wash the blanket, you need to prefer the positive mode and water temperature (based on the label). More often than not, it should not exceed 40 degrees for synthetic material. Use a mild powder or liquid detergent for sensitive laundry that does not contain bleach or chemicals.

2. Blankets made of synthetic winterizer are able to withstand repeated washings and retain their original appearance for a long time, do not deform. Syntepon fibers do not form lumps during washing and do not fall off. The material retains softness, elasticity and is rapidly recovering. After scrupulous rinsing and the spin function, it dries pretty quickly.

3. After washing, pull the blanket out of the washing machine drum and stretch it slightly. Leave to dry in natural conditions unfolded, periodically turn it over and shake it. It is recommended to wash the blanket once every three months.

4. It is allowed to wash the padding blanket by hand, but it is much more difficult, because when wet it becomes easily unbearable and you cannot do without help. Put the blanket in the bath and pour the required amount of water (the temperature should be 30 degrees), dissolving the liquid detergent in it. Rub it properly, you are even allowed to take off your shoes and walk on the blanket. Rinse thoroughly several times and let drain. After such a wash, the blanket will dry much longer.

5. If your blanket simply does not fit in the drum of the washing machine or does not fit in terms of the weight of the load, then it is better to give it to dry cleaning, where in a short time and extremely inexpensively they will bring the synthetic winterizer product into full order.

Fleece is a very warm and lightweight material. It is consequently that I propose to make such a thing out of it as a blanket. The production of this craft will not take you a lot of time and effort, you just need a little patience and perseverance.

You will need

  • - 2 pieces of fleece of identical size;
  • - scissors;
  • - tailor's pins.

Instruction

1. Before each, it is necessary to check whether the 2 pieces of fleece are identical in size. To do this, put the 1st piece of fabric on the 2nd, while fixing the edges with the help of tailor pins. In those places where one segment is larger than the other, neatly trim the fabric with scissors.

2. Without removing the pins, mark on all 4 corners of the pieces of fabric folded on top of each other squares, the size of which is 10 x 10 centimeters. Carefully cut out these shapes.

3. Then step back from the edge of the cut out square 2 centimeters. Make on given distance with the support of scissors, an incision so that its length is equal to the height of the cut figure, that is, 10 centimeters. Correctly make the same cuts along each edge of the future blanket. Thus, you will get something like a fringe. Do not forget to pick up the bottom fleece together with the upper fleece.

4. After you have cut each perimeter of the coming blanket, return to the fringe that was cut out from the square. Now take the top of the fringe and tie it in a knot with the bottom. Do the 2nd knot correctly as well. Do these actions with all the notched edges of the product. Fleece blanket is ready! In the same way, you can make, for example, a cape for a chair or chairs.

A blanket is an essential part of a great sleep. When a person falls asleep, it is this sign that creates a feeling of convenience and comfort. Today the market offers inexpensive blankets for every taste. The choice of products differs only in the quality of the filler. It is believed that this filler is hazardous to health. What is a synthetic winterizer? Is it permissible to prefer a good synthetic winterizer blanket?

Instruction

1. The synthetic winterizer is such a famous word that even the manufacturers themselves call it a wide variety of low-price products. As a result, the presentation took on a negative connotation. However, in the conditions of this negative context, textile factories continue to make products from padding polyester, which means that there is a need for them.

2. It turns out that a synthetic winterizer is? It is non-woven bulk material, consisting of polyester fibers that are bonded with an additional binder or high-tech processing. The main correct properties of this material are lightness, large volume, cool ability to keep warm.

3. Exceptionally voluminous products are obtained if the manufacturer used sintepon fibers combined with an adhesive method. However, such a filler is rapidly losing its properties. It is more susceptible to temperature and moisture. If the manufacturer used synthetic winterizer fibers combined by the thermal method, the product will have less splendor, but it will turn out to be more even and solid. A blanket with such a filler will retain its elasticity, will not cause allergies, and will not emit substances harmful to health.

4. Different kinds fillers are used both for tailoring and outerwear and warm blankets. Accordingly, if the synthetic winterizer blanket is lush in structure, then the filler is produced by the adhesive method. If the synthetic winterizer blanket is less voluminous, but even and flexible in sensations, then the filler for it is produced by the thermal method. This product will be the best choice.

5. In addition, the correct properties of synthetic winterizer blankets can be attributed to their easy cleaning during operation. A blanket made of good synthetic winterizer easily tolerates washing at home washing machine and drying in a centrifuge. Just keep in mind that the synthetic winterizer is a short-lived filler. It easily loses its shape with frequent mechanical action.

Note!
But if funds allow, give preference to blankets made from natural materials. They are now allowed to find a lot of species.

Useful advice
It will be more practical if you prefer a blanket consisting of several types of fillers. Let's say, the most affordable and excellently warming blankets, where, in addition to the synthetic winterizer, polyester treated with silicone is indicated in the composition. Such a product is more durable in operation, does not roll up after the first wash. Consequently, it will absolutely satisfy the needs of economical buyers.

Useful advice
If the piece of fabric is long, primitively fold it in half in width. Then it remains to flash each three sides; Using the same special technology, it is allowed to sew a simple sleeping bag. Correctly prepare the gasket and 2 panels in the same way. On one of the short sides, make a drawstring, bending it 2-3 cm. When sewing the 2nd short and side sides, sew a long zipper there so that its closed horse is at the fold. Quilt the blanket and sew along the edges, insert the cord into the drawstring.


I am glad that mine and its use in patchwork found a response in the hearts of needlewomen.

This material has its supporters, as well as those who prefer to work with other fillers.

But if the choice of a filler for a blanket or other patchwork product settled on a synthetic winterizer, then it would be nice to take into account its features and know the intricacies of working with it.

  • First of all, you need to make sure that none of the relatives, friends, or those to whom we are going to present our patchwork creation are allergic to it.
  • We use fabric with a dense weave of threads for the patchwork top and the wrong side of your product. So that the synthetic winterizer is guaranteed to remain inside the product.
  • We do not sew from synthetic winterizer those things that will come into contact with hot objects - pot holders, hot coasters, etc.
  • For patchwork products, we use a not very thick synthetic winterizer. At least at first. Let its thickness be no more than 1-1.5 cm (grade 100 and 150, respectively).
  • It is better to steam the synthetic winterizer with an iron to other layers of the patchwork “pie”. That is, put it between the patchwork top and the wrong side and walk on top lightly with a hot iron with steam. The top layer of the synthetic winterizer will melt slightly, “stick” to the fabric. By doing this, we immediately “kill two birds with one stone”: we will reduce the likelihood of the synthetic winterizer fibers coming out through the fabric and in small products we can do without preliminary chipping off the layers of the patchwork “pie” before stitching.
  • The synthetic winterizer can be placed in the product in several layers - in some places - to give special splendor where it is needed according to the author's idea.
  • The filler in the product can generally be made composite, from several layers of different materials, and the synthetic winterizer can be placed in the middle of the “pie”. So you don’t have to steam it, and you can “play” with the relief of the product during stitching.
  • For reasons of practicality, for such products, on which it is supposed to put something later - paths on the table, underplates, decorative napkins - we use only steamed, which means flattened synthetic winterizer.
  • The synthetic winterizer is good for sewing patchwork panels that will not be used as intensively as, for example, patchwork quilts.
Regardless of the patchwork, the synthetic winterizer will also find application. I want to say a few words about him.

So, during a discussion on my blog at the Fair of Masters, the idea of ​​​​using steamed, that is, compacted with an iron, synthetic winterizer as a dummy material was voiced when inventing a shape for a bag. I don't use this method myself, but maybe someone will find it useful.

I used to use a synthetic winterizer when sewing insulated clothes. And, in order to avoid tearing it in “strategic” places during wearing, I folded it together with the lining and pre-quilted it on a typewriter in small squares. And then this “sandwich” was connected with the main fabric of the product.

In any case, start sewing with what is at hand. But don't limit yourself! Whenever possible, try different materials. Now they have a huge selection! It is not necessary to buy them all at once and kilometers :). You can take a small piece for testing. But only by trying this or that material personally, you can form your own opinion about it. And most importantly, to understand which filler is more suitable for which products.

To be continued...

Talk about the fabrics used in the quilt, and forget about nonwovens means not to reveal the topic to the end. Today we are correcting the situation.
We have already mentioned that quilt This is a quilted patchwork product consisting of three layers. The middle layer is precisely the part that is non-woven. Initially, this layer was laid as insulation in patchwork quilts.. Today it also serves as a medium for expressive stitching.
Once used for volume and warmth batting. It still serves faithfully today, especially if we are talking about patchwork children's rugs. Traditional half-woolen batting is a fairly warm fabric, reinforced over the entire area with threads in the form of a zigzag stitch, which is why it is quite durable and retains its shape well. But compared to synthetic winterizer, for example, batting has a number of disadvantages - it dries poorly and has a lot of weight. From this product with batting it is much heavier than those in which a synthetic winterizer is inside.

Sintepon sometimes called synthetic batting. The properties of synthetic winterizer are probably already known to many - light, voluminous, elastic, quick-drying material, has good heat-shielding properties. It remains to be added that it consists of polyester fibers bonded to each other, and therefore requires a certain mode during heat treatment finished product. You should also pay attention to where you dry products with padding polyester. It is best to do this away from a heat source.

Speaking about the properties of the synthetic winterizer, it should be added that it is produced in different thicknesses and widths, and it can also be quilted along with lining fabric. Quilted synthetic winterizer can be used in patchwork, but extremely rare, since its structure does not give the product the desired expressiveness.

When cutting both batting and synthetic winterizer, there is no need to follow the direction of the threads in the canvas. .Carry out cutting in the direction that is most beneficial in terms of saving the web itself. If your product requires a greater width than the size of the insulation allows, then you need to grow it either end-to-end or overlap. butt they are connected if they work with batting, but at the same time, the connection line of the two parts must be sewn over the edge with oblique stitches and then the stitched parts should be opened. This can also be done with a padding polyester, if it is not particularly voluminous.

If it is necessary to increase the size of the bulk synthetic winterizer, then it is desirable to divide the layer thickness along the connection line, removing the lower part from one part and the upper part from the other. Thus, it will be possible to mask the junction of the two parts. True, it must be taken into account that when connecting overlap the second part must be cut wider than if the joint was butted. The separated parts of the layers can be applied to those areas of the synthetic winterizer where it seems to you that there are obvious gaps. If your synthetic winterizer turned out to be of excellent quality, you will always find a use for these remnants.

And to complete about heaters - one more piece of advice. If you need to lay more than one layer of insulation, never lay the layers so that the connection lines of the parts lie on top of each other. It is better to put the second layer in such a way that the connection line lies on the opposite side. Such a connection of layers will give more strength to the entire insulation and your product will last you much longer.

Patchworkers often have to make bulky products. And this requires fillers. Today, chemistry comes to the rescue again. Such fiber as holofiber meets the requirements of the most demanding consumers. Judge for yourself - soft, fluffy like fluff, light, warm, elastic, well retains the shape and volume of the product even after washing, durable. Hollofiber does not absorb moisture and odors, does not support combustion. Its fiber is 100% polyester and is made according to the latest technologies, which is why it is hollow inside and has a spiral shape. And if you consider that at the same time it also has non-toxicity, it is not surprising that it found application quite quickly in such products as pillows, children's toys, orthopedic mattresses, furniture, voluminous clothing and much more that surrounds a person.

It often happens that the width or length of the purchased filler is not enough and you need to increase it. How to do it right?

So, you sewed a blanket, bought a filler for it, and during the assembly process it turns out that you do not have enough of it in length or width. Or you have a lot of leftovers, quite large ones that you feel sorry for throwing away, but not enough in size, for example, for a pillowcase or a doll blanket. How to be?

Under no circumstances should you throw anything away! We select pieces of the desired size from the remnants of the filler. And trim both edges with a roller knife, rug and ruler.

In order not to spoil the surface of the cutting mat, use its reverse side. The one without markings.

Exhibit on sewing machine zigzag seam. We set the length and width of the seam to the maximum. We join two pieces of filler (the filler should not find each other) and sew the pieces together.

That's all! Now the filler can be used for its intended purpose!

This method is good for stitching cotton filling. If you have pieces of padding polyester available, then you can easily connect them together using a thread and a needle. It is necessary to sew two canvases together so that the seam is not rough and thick. That's all!