Materials and tools:
1. Yarn Pekhorka Lace (acrylic 100%, 280 m / 50 g). Color: severe, white, mint, bright orange.
(You can use any yarn that suits you.)
2. Thread floss for face embroidery. Color: black, pink, blue, brown.
3. Filler (holofiber, synthetic winterizer)
4. Wire - copper insulated, 1.5 mm.
5. Adhesive plaster based on cotton.
6. A piece of plastic for insoles.
7. Hook 1.25
8. Needle for sewing details and embroidery of the face.
When using these materials, the height of the doll is 18 cm.

Legend:

KA - amigurumi ring

sc - single crochet

dec - decrease (knit two loops for the front walls together sc)

pr - increase (knit 2 sc in one loop)

ssn - double crochet

pr ss - increase ss (knit 2 ss in one loop)

ss - connecting column

vp - air loop

Crochet amigurumi doll crochet pattern

LEGS

We knitbeigecolor (harsh)
Link a chain of 6 ch
1 row - from the second loop from the hook: 4 sbn, 3 sbn in the extreme loop; on the other side: 3 sc, inc (12)
2 row - inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
3rd row – 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) x3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) x2 (24)
Cut out the insole.

4 row - 24 sc for the back walls
5, 6 rows - 24 sc
1 bias loop
7 row - 2 sc, (1 sc, dec) x6, 2 sc, dec (17)
8 row - 2 sc, 6 dec, 2 sc, inc (12)
Insert the insole and wire approximately 20-22 cm long. Stuff with filler as you knit.

9 - 38 rows - 12 sc
At one leg, cut the thread, fill it. Do not cut off the second thread.

BODY

1 offset loop. The marker should be in the center of the inside of the leg.
Attach a white thread (we knit panties).

1 row - right leg: 6 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x3, ch 3, left leg: (1 sc, inc) x3, 6 sc (33)
2 row - 3 sbn in the chain, 15 sbn on the right leg, 3 sbn in the chain, 15 sbn on the right leg (36)
Connect the wire and secure with a plaster.

3 row - 36 sc
4 row - 9 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 6 sc (34)
5 row - 17 sc, 2 dec, 13 sc (32)
6 row - 9 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 5 sc (30)
7 row - 9 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc (28)
8, 9 rows - 28 sc
10 row – 9 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (24)
(Check: 1 sc in row 10 is the middle of the back)
Change the thread to mint color. Stuff while knitting.
11 row - (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
12 row - 18 sbn for the back walls of the loop
13-16 rows - 18 sc
17 row - 7 sb, inc, 8 sb, inc, 1 sb (20). Side additions.
18 row - 20 sc
19 row - 8 sb, inc, 9 sb, inc, 1 sb (22)
20 - 24 rows - 22 sc
15 bias loops. Marker in the center of the back.
Change thread to bodily.
25 row - 4 sb, 2 dec, 7 sb, 2 dec, 3 sb (18) - per rear walls. Decreases on the sides - this is the transition to the shoulders.
26 row - 3 sb, 2 dec, 5 sb, 2 dec, 2 sb (14)
27 row - 2 sb, 2 dec, 3 sb, 2 dec, 1 sb (10)

HEAD

1 row - 6 sc in KA
2 row - 6 inc (12)
3 row - (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
4 row - (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5 row - (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
6 row - (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
7 row - (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
8 row - (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)
9 - 18 rows - 48 sc
19 row - (4 sc, dec) x8 (40)
20 row - (3 sc, dec) x8 (32)
21 row - (2 sc, dec) x8 (24)
Stuff your head with filler.
22 row - (1 sc, dec) x6 (16)
23 row - (2 sc, 3 dec) x2 (10)

NECK

24, 25 rows - 10 sc. The neck can be lengthened by 1-2 rows.

Cut the thread, fasten, thread (or leave it long for further sewing).

ARMS

1 row - 6 sc in KA
2 row - (1 sc, inc) x3 (9)
3 - 26 rows - 9 sc

Insert the wire, add filler to the palm.
27 row - (1 sc, dec) x3 (6)
Cut the thread, pull off the loops, fasten the thread, thread (or leave it long for further sewing).
DRESS

Rows: 2, 4, 5, 7, 8 start with 3 ch lifts (we count as 1 dc), end with sl-st.
Attach a mint thread to the front loop of the 12th row (side)
1 row - 18 inc (36)
First frill
2 row - 36 dc for the front walls
3 row - in each loop: 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc
Cut the thread, fasten, thread.
Second frill

Attach the thread to the back wall of the 1st row
4 row - 36 dc, behind the back walls of the 1st row
5 row - (2 dc, 1 inc dc) x12 (48) - behind the front walls
6 row - like 3 row
Cut the thread, fasten, thread.
Third frill
Attach the thread to the back wall of the 4th row
7 row - 36 dc
8 row - (3 dc, 1 inc dc) x9 (45)
9 row - like 3 row
Cut the thread, fasten, thread. Sew on the hands.

Top frill
Attach the thread to the front wall of the 25th row at the junction of the left arm and torso from the back.
1 row - in each loop of the 25th row, knit sc. Above the hands for 6 ch.
2 row - in each loop - pr ss, over ch 7 ss. Cut the thread, fasten, thread.

Sew on the head. Make sure there is enough filler in the neck.

Materials:

Designations:

Head

Ears

Nose

In the interval of 10 sc in the 21st row, our spout will be located. We sew the nose from the 21-25th row.
Fold the end of the ear in half and sew on both edges.
for 6-7 rows (that is, for 2 rows) so that it does not hang in different directions. In this case, KA, I also consider it a series.
Glue eyes, embroider eyebrows.
We mark with needles how our mouth will be located and embroider. Maybe someone wants to embroider a larger mouth or less, at your discretion.

legs

1. 4 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
2. 5 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
3. 6 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
4. 7 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
5. 8 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
6. 9 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
7. 10 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
8. 11 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
9. 12 sc, s/s, v/p, turn
10. 13 sb, s / s, v / p, turn

11. 20 sc
We change the color to the main one, stuff the foot, insert the wire. We stuff the heel well.
We take the wire 40 -45 cm, it is better to let it be superfluous than not enough. Everyone has yarn, knitting density is different, the growth of the toy will be different, so it’s better to remove the excess at the end.
12-26 (15 rows) - 20 sc
We knit bias loops to the center of the leg (see photo)
We fix the thread, cut it off, stuff it.

Body

We attach the thread to the left front half-loops in the 24th row and tie it with columns.
Tie the collar:
We hold the toy away from us, outline the center of our collar, attach the thread
1. Dial 2 v / p, (4 pssn, inc) × 6 times, 2 v / p, turn (36)
2. (5 prss, inc) × 6 times, 2 v/p, turn (42 prss)
3. 42 pssn, 2 v / p, turn
4. 42 pssn, fasten the thread, cut it off.
(2 v / p do not count as pssn)

Sew on buttons (optional), sew on head, embroider paws

Pens:

Tail

Option 2 (larger)
1. 6 sc in KA
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1sc, inc) × 6 times (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) × 6 times (24)
5-7. 24 sc
8. (2 sc, dec) × 6 times (18)
9. (1 sc, dec) × 6 times (12)
Leave the end of the thread for sewing, stuff.
We will sew the tail, how we will make the navel.

Navel

You can generally ignore the "displacement loop" and knit according to the scheme, but then the detail
it might get a little crooked. These are features of knitting in a spiral.
In order to avoid curvature, in addition to the rad that we finished, we knit
1 or 2 sbn, from the next row and do not count them, but simply move the marker 1 or 2 sbn to the left!

For example, in the 4th row we have 30 loops and our marker "left to the right". We knit 1-2sc offsets
on the loops of the 5th row and move the marker. Now we have a new beginning of the row, shifted by 1-2sc.
Then we knit the 5th row according to the scheme, starting from the new position of the marker.
It's that simple!

Those. the offset loop is always the first loop of the row (knits like a regular sc), but then the second loop,
that follows it is already considered the first loop. Thus, we will align the knitting, and the reductions
will be under increments, and the part will not twist.
Please note that the offset loop is not included in the total loop count for the scheme!
When using an offset stitch, knit with a marker. So it will be easier for you to determine when and how much
bias loops to use.

What is a marker and how to use it.

Using a contrast thread as a marker

Empirically, I found out that it is more convenient for me to use a thread as a marker than to use
pins or some other device. If these are safety pins, then they need to be refastened
in every row, and that's the time. If you just stick a pin or use plastic
special markers, they may accidentally fall out. So the thread for me turned out to be the most - and quickly
and all rows are clearly visible, which allows you to keep track of when an offset loop may be needed.
With a thread, I mark the first loop of the row. When we reach the end of the row, we do not need to knit
marked loop, because we have already knitted it, as the first.
We tied the row to the end (the thread marked the 1st loop of the same row), threw the thread we use
like a marker
and knit the first loop of the new row

Happy knitting!

Author natikso
I would just like to add a comment from my own experience! I want to note right away that for experienced
knitters this is unlikely to come in handy, but for such "lamers" like me (and they definitely are here,
albeit a little), I hope this information will help not to make mistakes!
When I first started knitting amigurumi, I had no idea about any bias loops, knitting
around and all. Then, naturally, I did not want to get "some crooked" details and began to knit according to
rules - and let's level everything that comes to hand. On small details (arms and legs) everything
it was wonderful. But on large (particularly heads) I encountered this: at the stage of gains,
when knitting offset stitches, aligning the marker with the last stitch of the first row,
we get such a beautiful polyhedron.

But this is our first toy, which means we say to ourselves "so what, I'm just learning," we tie
head, fill with filler and rejoice at what we have done. It's nothing that the head is not round,
but it won't roll off the table.
Now I know that in places of increase it is better not to knit any bias loops, but the first pancake
nevertheless lumpy!
And the second option, without alignment - the marker "left" to the right, but the detail is noticeably rounder

You can leave it like that, but we strive for the ideal, so we'll try a little more. Let's say we do
increase the first 10 rows, so somewhere in 2 rows (after the 8th) we rearrange the marker for several loops
forward (approximately in the middle of the face of our rounded polyhedron) and continue further along the diagram.

And one more time (that is, we still rearrange the marker for one or two loops). Voila! Little circle!

And now we knit bias loops, as mentioned above.
The reference point is the place where the marker number 2 stopped.

Often beginners ask themselves the question: why does the marker move to the left, when it should move to the right?
In most cases, the answer is simple - you initially lack one loop!
Check the picture to see if you are making the amigurumi ring correctly? And how many columns do you make in it?
Remember, the loop on the hook is considered working, and the total account is not included!

If you can’t get an amigurumi ring, try dialing 2ch, in the second loop from the hook, make 6sc.
Place a marker. Each row should end in a stitch before the marker, not behind the marker.

Toy growth 30 cm

Necessary materials:

• Yarn NAKO SENET - 270m / 100g, (25% wool, 75% acrylic), color: light brown for the body, beige (yellow) for the muzzle, a little white, blue (green) for the eyes, any for panties.
• Hook №1,5
• Wire for the frame (I insert the frame when assembling)

Conventions

KA - amigurumi ring
Vp - air loop
sc - single crochet
Psn - double crochet
SS - connecting post
Ub - two columns together
Dv. dec - three columns together
Prib - from one loop - two columns
Dv. inc - from one loop-three columns
PV - knitting turn

Additional Information

Description of knitting monkey

brown thread
1 p. - 6 sc in KA
2 p. - inc*6 times = 12




7 p. - (5 sc, prib) * 6 times = 42
8 p. - (6 sc, prib) * 6 times = 48
9 p. - (15 sc, prib) * 3 times = 51
10 p. - (16 sc, prib) * 3 times = 54
11 p. - 20 r. = 54
21 p. - (16 sc, dec) * 3 times = 51
22 p. - (15 sc, dec) * 3 times = 48
23 p. - (6 sc, dec) * 6 times = 42
24 p. - (5 sc, dec) * 6 times = 36
25 p. - (4 sc, dec) * 6 times = 30
26 p. - (3 sc, dec) * 6 times = 24
27 p. - (2 sc, dec) * 6 times = 18, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing, fill the part.

Beige thread
1 p. - 6 sc in KA
2 p. - inc*6 times = 12
3 p. - (1 sc, prib) * 6 times = 18
4 p. - (2 sc, prib) * 6 times = 24
5 p. - (3 sc, prib) * 6 times = 30
6 p. - (4 sc, prib) * 6 times = 36
7 p. - (8 sc, prib) * 4 times = 40
8 p. - (9 sc, prib) * 4 times = 44
9 p. - (10 sc, prib) * 4 times = 48
10 p. - (11 sc, prib) * 4 times = 52
11 p. - (25 sc, prib) * 2 times = 54
12 p. - 19 p. = 54
20 p. - (16 sc, dec) * 3 times = 51
21 p. - (15 sc, dec) * 3 times = 48
22 p. - (14 sc, dec) * 3 times = 45
23 p. - 24 p. = 45
25 p. - (13 sc, dec) * 3 times = 42
26 p. = 42
27 p. - (13 sc, prib) * 3 times = 45
28 p. - (14 sc, inc) * 3 times = 48, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing, fill it not very tightly - we will do the tightening.

Eyes, 2 parts

The whites of the eyes.
White thread.
1 p. - 6 sc in KA
2 p. - inc*6 times = 12
3 p. - (3 inc, 3 sb) * 2 times = 18
4 p. - ((1 sbn, prib) * 3 times, 3 sbn) * 2 times = 24
5 p. = 24
6 p. - (2 sc, dec) * 6 times = 18, sl-st, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing.

Pupils and iris
Black thread.
1 p. - 4 ch, from the 2nd loop 2 sbn, dv. inc, 3 sbn, PV
2 p. - 1 ch, 2 sc, 3 inc. psn, 3 sbn, PV, change the thread to green (blue), i.e. iris color
3 p. - 1 ch, 2 sbn, (1 psn, inc) * 3 times, 1 psn, 2 sbn, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing.

Eyelids (eyebrows)
Beige thread (muzzle color)
8 ch. join in a ring
1 p. - 7 p. - 8 sc = 8
8 p. - 4 sbn, 1 psn, approx. psn, 2 psn = 9
9 p. - 16 p. - 4 sc, 5 dc = 9
17 p. - 4 sbn, ub. psn, 3 psn = 8
18 p. - 21 p. - 8 sc = 8, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing.

Brow ridges
If desired. With a dark brown thread in 4-5 additions with a thick crochet we knit a chain of air loops desired length (determined locally).

Nose

Dark brown thread
1 p. - 2 ch, in the 2nd loop 3 sc = 3, PV
2 p. - 1 ch, 2 inc, 1 sb = 5, PV
3 p. - 1 ch, inc, 2 sb, inc, 1 sb = 7, PV
4 p. - 1 ch, 7 sbn = 7, PV
5 p. - 1 ch, dec, 2 sb, dec, 1 sb = 5, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing

Ears, 2 parts

brown thread
1 p. - 6 sc in KA
2 p. - inc*6 times = 12
3 p. - (1 sc, prib) * 6 times = 18
4 p. - (2 sc, prib) * 6 times = 24
5 p. - (7 sbn. prib) * 3 times = 27
6 p. - (8 sbn. prib) * 3 times = 30
7 p. - 14 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc = 32
8 p. - 15 sc, 2 inc, 15 sc = 34
9 p. - (16 sc, prib) * 2 times = 36
10 p. - (17 sc, prib) * 2 times = 38
11 p. - (18 sc, prib) * 2 times = 40
12-14 p. = 40
15 p. \u003d 40 + 1 bias loop
Further, the ears are knitted in different ways - left and right

Left
16 p. - (8 sc, dec) * 2 times, 20 sc = 38
17 p. - (7 sc, dec) * 2 times, 20 sc = 36
18 p. - (6 sc, dec) * 2 times, 20 sc = 34
19 p. - (5 sc, dec) * 2 times, 20 sc = 32

Right
16 p. - (dec, 8 sc) * 2 times, 20 sc = 38
17 p. - (dec, 7 sc) * 2 times, 20 sc = 36
18 p. - (dec, 6 sc) * 2 times, 20 sc = 34
19 p. - (dec, 5 sc) * 2 times, 20 sc = 32
20 p. = 32, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing.

brown thread
ch 18 close in a ring
1 p. - 2 p. - 18 sc = 18
3 p. - (2 sc, prib) * 6 times = 24
4 p. - (3 sc, prib) * 6 times = 30
5 p. - (9 sbn. prib) * 3 times = 33
6 p. - (10 sbn. prib) * 3 times = 36
7 p. - 12 p. = 36
13 p. - 17 sc, dec, 16 sc, inc = 36
14 p. = 36
15 p. - 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) * 2 times, 2 sc, 11 sc, inc, 11 sc = 40
16 p. - 5 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 29 sc = 42
17 p. - 2 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 26 sc = 44
18 p. = 44+1 bias stitches
19 p. \u003d 44, ss, change the thread to the color of the panties
20 p. - (4 sc, inc) * 3 times, 4 sc, (5 sc, dec) * 3 times, 4 sc = 44
21 p. - 7 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 14 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc = 44
22 p. = 44
23 p. - 33 sb, dec, 9 sb = 43 + 1 bias loop
24 p. = 43
25 p. - 32 sc, dec, 9 sc = 42
26 p. = 42
27 p. - (5 sc, dec) * 6 times = 36
28 p. - (4 sc, dec) * 6 times = 30
29 p. - (3 sc, dec) * 6 times = 24
30 r. - (2 sc, dec) * 6 times = 18
31 p. - (1 sc, dec) * 6 times = 12
32 p. - 6 dec \u003d 6, pull off, fasten the thread, hide. Stuff the body, the butt should be a little "off")))

Pants, 2 parts

Pants color of your choice. ch 20 close in a ring
1 p. - 2 p. - 20 sc = 20
3 p. - (8 sc, dec) * 2 times = 18
4 p. - 5 p. \u003d 18 + 1 bias loop in 5 p.
we form the popliteal fold and the knee
6 p. - 1 sbn, 7 sbn for the front half loops, 2 sbn, 7 dc, 1 sbn = 18
7 p. - 8 p. - 1 0 sbn, 7 psn, 1 sbn = 18 + 1 bias loop in 8 p.
9 p. - 1 sbn, 7 sbn together with the back half loops of the 6th row, 2 sbn, 7 dc, 1 sbn = 18
10 p. - 18 sc = 18
11 p. - 4 sc, inc, 13 sc = 19
12 p. - 5 sc, inc, 13 sc = 20
13 p. - 5 sc, inc, 14 sc = 21
14 p. - 6 sc, inc, 14 sc = 22
15 p. - 2 sbn, 5 psn, approx. psn, 5 psn, 9 sbn = 23
16 p. - 8 sc, inc, 14 sc = 24, sl-st, fasten the thread, hide.

Feet-palms, 2 parts

Fingers 3 + 1 thumb for one palm.
The fingers for both palms are knitted the same way, but connected in different ways!

Thumb

1 p. - 6 sc in KA

3 p. - 5 p. - 9 sc = 9

7 p. - 9 sc = 9, break the thread

Index and middle fingers

1 p. - 6 sc in KA
2 p. - (1 sc, prib) * 3 times = 9
3 p. - 5 p. - 9 sc = 9
6 p. - 4 dc, 1 sb, 3 sl-st, 1 sb = 9
7 p. - 8 p. - 9 sc = 9, break the thread (1 row more).

Little finger

1 p. - 6 sc in KA
2 p. - (1 sc, prib) * 3 times = 9
3 p. - 5 p. - 9 sc = 9
6 p. - 4 dc, 1 sb, 3 sl-st, 1 sb = 9
7 p. - 9 sbn = 9, we do not cut the thread, we connect the fingers into the palm.

we connect in this way so that the "knuckles" of the fingers are on the back of the hand

Left
1 p. - 5 sc on the little finger, 5 sc on the middle finger, 9 sc on the index finger, 4 sc on the middle finger, 4 sc on the little finger = 27
2 p. - 3 p. = 27

Attaching the thumb
4 p. - 14 sbn, 15th column together with the 2nd column of the thumb, 16th with 1st, 17th with 9th, 18th with 8th, 9 sbn = 27
5 p. - 14 sc, 5 sc on the thumb, 9 sc = 28
6 p. - 7 p. = 28

9 p. - 6 sc, 6 ch, skip 6 loops, 12 sc = 24 (frame hole)
10 p. = 24


13 p. - 6 dec \u003d 6, pull off, fasten the thread, hide

Right
1 p. - 5 sb on the little finger, rearrange the marker, 4 sb on the little finger, 4 sb on the middle (6,7,8,9 columns), 9 sb on the index (6,7,8,9,1,2,3,4, 5 columns), 5 sb on the average, 5 sb on the little finger = 27 (counting from the marker)
2 p. - 3 p. = 27

Attaching the thumb
4 p. - 11 sc, 12th column with the 7th column of the thumb, 13th with the 6th, 14th with the 5th, 15th with the 4th, 12 sc = 27
5 p. - 11 sc, 5 sc on the thumb, 12 sc = 28
6 p. - 7 p. = 28
8 p. - (5 sc, dec) * 4 times = 24
9 p. - 16 sc, 6 ch, skip 6 loops, 2 sc = 24 (frame hole)
10 p. = 24
11 p. - (2 sc, dec) * 6 times = 18
12 p. - (1 sc, dec) * 6 times = 12
13 p. - 6 dec \u003d 6, pull off, fasten the thread, hide.
You can fill it now, or you can after inserting the frame.

Here's what it looks like together

Hands, 2 parts

Attention! We knit the fingers in the same way as for the feet.
We connect the fingers in the palm.
We connect in this way so that the "knuckles" of the fingers are on the back of the hand

Left
1 p. - 5 sc on the little finger, 5 sc on the middle finger, 9 sc on the index finger, 4 sc on the middle finger, 4 sc on the little finger = 27
2 p. = 27
3 p. - 7 sc, dec, 18 = 26

Attaching the thumb
4 p. - 14 sbn, 4 sbn together with 4 sbn of the thumb (9,8,7,6 bp columns), 8 sbn = 26
5 p. - 14 sc, 5 sc on the thumb, 8 sc = 27
6 p. - 7 p. = 27


10 p. = 20 + 2-3 offset loops so that the marker is on the side line of the little finger and continue to knit the arm.
11 p. - 5 sc, dec, 7 sc, (approx. 2 sc) * 2 times = 21
12 p. - 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc = 22
13 p. - 16 p. = 22
17 p. - 1 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 8 sc = 20
18 p. = 20
19 p. - 1 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 6 sc, 1 dc = 18

We form the elbow

21 p. - 2 psn, inc, psn, 3 psn, 3 sbn, 6 slst, 4 sbn, 1 psn = 21
22 p. - 7 psn, 14 sbn = 21




32 p. - 6 dec \u003d 6, pull, fasten, cut, hide.

Right
1 p. - 5 sb on the little finger, rearrange the marker, 4 sb on the little finger, 4 sb on the middle (6,7,8,9 columns), 9 sb on the index (6,7,8,9,1,2,3,4, 5 columns), 5 sb on the average, 5 sb on the little finger = 27 (counting from the marker)
2 p. = 27
3 p. - 19 sc, dec, 6 sc = 26

Attaching the thumb
4 p. - 10 sbn, 4 sbn together with 4 sbn of the thumb (9,8,7,6), 12 sbn = 26
5 p. - 10 sc, 5 sc on the thumb, 12 sc = 27
6 p. - 7 p. = 27
8 p. - (7 sbn, ub)) 83 times = 24
9 p. - (4 sc, dec) * 4 times = 20
10 p. = 20 + 2-3 offset loops so that the marker is on the side line of the little finger, and continue to knit the arm.
11 p. - (2 sc, inc) * 2 times, 7 sc, dec, 5 sc = 21
12 p. - 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc = 22
13 p. - 16 p. = 22
17 p. - 1 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 8 sc = 20
18 p. = 20
19 p. - 1 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 6 sc, 1dc = 18

We form the elbow
20 p. - (appr. psn, 1 psn) * 2 times, 13 sc, 1 psn = 20
21 p. - 2 psn, inc, psn, 3 psn, 3 prs, 6ss, 4 prs, 1 psn = 21
22 p. - 7 psn, 14 sbn = 21
23 p. - ub. psn * 4 times, 13 sc = 17
24 p. - 2 sc, inc, 14 sc = 18
25 p. - 30 r. \u003d 18, while we put it aside, leaving the thread to finish after inserting the frame. Then knit 2 rows. You can fill it now, you can after inserting the frame.
31 p. - (1 sc, dec) 6 times = 12
32 p. - 6 dec \u003d 6, pull off, fasten, cut, hide.

1 p. - 6 sc in KA
2 p. - 6 inc \u003d 12
3 p. - (3 sc, prib) * 3 times = 15
4 p. - 11 p. = 15
12 p. - dec, 13 sc = 14
13 p. = 14
14 p. - dec, 12 sc = 13
15 p. = 13
16 p. - dec, 11 sc = 12
17 p. - 48 p. \u003d 12, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing, fill the tail loosely.

Any colour.
We collect a chain of air loops equal to the circumference of the waist (along the edge of the pants) and knit 5-6 rows with turning rows.

Sew the muzzle to the head

Mouth

Mouth - t. 1 - (entrance under the neck) - thread inside - t. 2 (mouth exit) - thread outside - t. 3 (mouth entrance) - thread inside - t. 4 (exit under the neck). Pull off, tie a strong knot, hide the ends.
Corners of the mouth - t. 5 - (entrance) - t. 6 (exit) skipping one column t. 6 - 1 (entrance) - t. 5 - 1 (exit), pull off, tie a strong knot, hide the ends. Between p.5 and p.6, the thread goes to the outer surface by 1-2 columns. When tightening the thread, the corners of the lips are obtained.

Similarly, the other corner of the mouth: v.7 (entrance) - v.8 (exit) - v.8-1 (input) - v.7-1 (exit).
Between t.1 and t.4 - 9 loops, 26th row, between t.2 and t.3 - 18 loops, 9th row.
Corners of the mouth - at your discretion, depending on the desired facial expression

nostrils

Sew the nostrils symmetrically with crescents at the level of 8 p. - 12 p. - 10 r.
It turns out like this.

Assembling our constructor
We sew a spout between the nostrils, placing a little filler.
Stuff the whites of the eyes and sew.

Sew iris pupils to the squirrels and embroider highlights.
We fill quite a bit the eyelids-eyebrows and sew.
If desired, we knit and sew on the brow ridges.
Sew on the ears.
The head is ready.

Making a frame

We determine the length of the wire for the frame in place, it is better to take a little longer and then cut off the excess. The wire can be copper or aluminum, with or without insulation.

Arms

We bend the frame for the palm at one end of the wire (in all fingers), insert the frame into the hand, stuff the fingers and hand with a thin stick, knit 2 rows, pierce the body with the wire at shoulder level, bend the frame for the palm at the other end of the wire (in all fingers), insert the frame into the hand, stuff the fingers and hand with a thin stick, knit 2 rows. You can not knit the rows, but simply sew the arms to the body.

Legs

We bend the frame for the foot at one end of the wire (into all fingers), insert the frame into the slot in the foot, stuff the fingers and foot with a thin stick, bring the wire into the trouser leg, then pierce it through the body, bring it out into the other leg, bend it at the other end of the wire frame for the foot (in all fingers), insert the frame into the slot in the foot, stuff the fingers and foot with a thin stick, sew the legs to the body, stuff the legs, sew to the feet - we got "flared" pants.

We insert the wire along the entire length of the tail, stick it into the body, where the tail grows from, draw the wire through the body-neck and bring it to the head. Sew on the head.

You can make a breast and help to panties, you can sew - tie a vest. At your discretion.

Our Monkey is READY!
Light loops!
Peace, goodness, happiness to all!

I want to note right away that this is unlikely to be useful for experienced knitters, but for beginners this information will help not to make mistakes!

When I first started knitting amigurumi, I had no idea about any bias loops, knitted in a circle and that's it. Then, of course, I did not want to get "some crooked" details and began to knit according to the rules - and let's align everything that comes to hand.
On small details (handles-legs) everything was great. But on large (particularly heads) I came across this: at the stage of increments, when you knit displacement loops, aligning the marker with respect to the last loop of the first row, we get such a beautiful polyhedron.

But this is our first toy, which means we say to ourselves “so what, I’m just learning”, we tie the head, fill it with filler and rejoice at what we have done. It's nothing that the head is not round, but it will not roll off the table.
Now I know that in places of increase it is better not to knit any bias loops, but the first pancake is nevertheless lumpy!
And the second option, without alignment - the marker "left" to the right, but the detail is noticeably rounder

You can leave it like that, but we strive for the ideal, so we'll try a little more. Let's say we increase the first 10 rows, so somewhere in 2 rows (after the 8th) we rearrange the marker a few loops forward (approximately in the middle of the face of our rounded polyhedron) and continue further according to the scheme. As a result.
.
And one more time (that is, we still rearrange the marker for one or two loops). Voila! Little circle!

And now we knit bias loops, as mentioned above. The reference point is the place where the marker number 2 stopped.