GBOU NGO PROFESSIONAL LYCEUM №4

APPROVED :

at the meeting method. commissions

protocol no.

from "___" ___________2016

Chair method. commissions

Zhurba E.Yu.

APPROVE:

Deputy director of management

Kesaeva Z.S.

« » 2016

METHODOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT

ON TRAINING PRACTICE

UP. 04 PM.04 "Bespoke tailoring"

TOPIC : « Processing technology for single parts

and units of products ».

OCCUPATION: « ».

Recommended for use in the lessons of educational practice within the framework of PPKRS by profession 29.01.05 Cutter, in order to familiarize students with different ways processing patch pocket - briefcase , the formation of techniques for the implementation of individual nodes by students; consolidating the knowledge gained in the lessons of theoretical training; development of creative abilities and cognitive activity of students.

master of industrial training

Vladikavkaz, 2016

MATERIAL SUPPORT

INFORMATION SOURCES AND LITERATURE:

Trukhanov A.G. "An Illustrated Guide to Lightweight Clothing Technology".

http:// pokroyka. en/ karmany/ pocket- portfolio

http://godress.com.ua

Workshop on industrial training of the profession "Tailor".

VISUAL AIDS:

Schemes, drawings, samples of processing in sequence, samples finished products, decorated board.

EQUIPMENT:

desktops, sewing machines 97-A and 1022-M class., special vehicles 51 class., irons

M-2 and M-5.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT:

Scissors No. 10-12, needle holder with tailor's pins, machine needles

№ 100-110, hand needles No. 3, 5, 7, thimble, measuring tape, cutter, tailor's chalk, box.

MATERIALS:

Various types of fabrics, interlining materials, threads: cotton No. 40-50, silk

№ 20, reinforced No. 35.

PLAN

conducting industrial training classes

1. Topic name: « Processing technology for individual parts and components of the product »

2. Name of the lesson: « Methods for processing a patch pocket - briefcase ».

3. Lesson objectives:

Training: Consolidation of theoretical knowledge gained during the study of PM.04 "Sewing products for individual orders":

PC 1.3. Serve sewing equipment and equipment for WTO units and products.

PC 1.4. Perform step by step processing garments different assortment on machines or manually with division of labor and individually.

PC 1.5. To form a three-dimensional form of a semi-finished product using equipment for WTO.

PC 1.6. Comply with labor safety rules.

PC 1.7. Use technical, technological and regulatory documentation.

PC 2.1. Perform node-by-unit quality control of the garment.

PC 2.2. Determine the causes of defects in the manufacture of the product.

PC 2.3. Prevent and eliminate defects in sewing processing.

Nurturing: To educate students in general competencies:

OK. 1 - Understand the essence and social significance of your future profession show a sustained interest in it.

О.К.2 - Organize your own activities, based on the goal and ways to achieve it, determined by the leader.

О.К.3- Analyze the working situation, carry out technical and final control, evaluate and correct their own activities, be responsible for the results of their work.

О.К.4 - Search for information necessary for the effective implementation of professional tasks.

О.К.5 - Use information and communication technologies in professional activities.

О.К.6 - Work in a team, communicate effectively with colleagues, client management.

Educational : To develop students' skills:

Apply theoretical knowledge in practice;

Analyze errors in the processing of the product;

Creative skills students;

To instill the skills of culture, labor and production.

Methodical: Activation of mental activity of students.

4. Type of lesson: Performance of complex complex works.

5. Lesson teaching methods:

verbal : explanation, conversation with the formulation of problematic questions, dialogue, additional briefing if necessary.

visual : personal demonstration of labor techniques by the master, knot processingpatch pocket - briefcase b.

practical : independent work of students.

6. Location of the lesson: Training and production workshop.

7. Lesson time: 6 hours.

ORDER OF LESSON

No. p / p

Name of questions and their summary

Guidelines

I Organizational part

Greeting students.

Report of the public master on the presence of students, their readiness for the lesson, the completeness of tools and devices.

Mark missing in the log. Identified deficiencies to be eliminated as far as possible.

Report of the public mechanic on the availability and condition of the equipment.

II Induction training

Inform the topic of the lesson: "Methods for processing a patch pocket - a portfolio."

Survey of students based on the material of the previous lesson: "Types and methods of processing straight coquettes."

Distribute task cards, ask a few questions on past topics individually, conduct a frontal survey on terminology and safety.

What is a coquette? Types of coquettes?

Yoke - this is a cut-off detail of the upper part of the shoulder or waist product. She is one of structural details in the product. There are coquettescut and whole cut with the product.

What coquettes are in shape?

Coquettes in shape are straight, oval and curly.

Coquettes are connected: with a stitch, stitch, overhead and embossed seam.

What types of finishes can be used when processing the bottom cut of the coquette?

The lower cut of the coquette can be trimmed with edging, frill, lace.

Describe manual safety precautions

Fold the yoke part and the main part right sides inward. Equalize slices. Baste on the yoke with straight running stitchesL st = 1.5-2.0 cm, seam width - 0.9 cm. Stitch the yoke with a 1 cm seam along the yoke. Process the seam on a special machine. Then iron, iron, topstitch or unstitch, depending on the model.

Describe safety precautions when working with a machine.

The yoke can be connected with the product: with a closed seam, with the help of undercut facing, stitched and stitched, using or not finishing (piping, lace, braid, frill, etc.)

Describe safety precautions when working at an ironing table.

Collect task cards. Announce marks for oral answers.

Grades put in the journal.

Explanation new topic: "Methods of processing a patch pocket - a briefcase."

Write the topic on the board.

Purpose clarification: on this lesson to study the types and methods of processing a patch pocket - a portfolio. By the end of the session, everyone should have processed the node.

Communicate to the students what they will do in class and what they will learn.

A pocket - a briefcase is a fashionable sports version of a patch pocket. Ordinary patch pockets can be easily converted into briefcase pockets. It can be done in various ways. Let's consider some of them:

Invite students to name on which products a pocket can be made - a briefcase.

1. 1. 1. Pin the placket with the raw outer cut to the pocket face to face.

         Stitch the bar, seam width 0.5 cm.

         Cut the seam allowance close to the stitching, make notches (3) in the rounded areas, not reaching the stitching by 0.1 cm.

         Sweep the bar to the wrong side.

         Iron the edge.

         Topstitch 0.1 cm from the seam of attaching the strap to the pocket. If desired, the edge can be stitched additionally at a greater distance (according to the model), without grabbing the bar with the ironed outer edge.

         Pin the pocket to the product along the marked lines.

         Sew to the edge only the bar lying below by 0.1 cm. If desired, the lower bar can be additionally stitched at a greater distance (according to the model). Put bartacks in the upper corners 3 cm long.

At rounded pockets the effect of volume is achieved through the use of two strips corresponding to the shape of the pocket.

The dimensions of the pocket depend on the model and dimensional characteristics of the product. The amount of allowances when cutting along the lower and side cuts is 0.7-1 cm, and along the upper cut it depends on the model and processing method (2-3.5 cm).

On the pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of about 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket part as a separate part. Cut out the pocket and the strap from the fabric with allowances for seams along all sections: cut out the pocket once, and the strap twice.

Defects

inconsistency of the straps with the main pocket (inaccurate cut).

Elimination: Refine the cut, redraw if necessary.

Different plank widths.

Elimination: clarify the width of the cut strips, check the width of the seam for attaching the strips.

Rectangular briefcase pocket with one-piece pleat detail

1. 1. 1. Sew the outer edge of the pocket at the top corners exactly into the bartack seam.

Iron the pocket ready.

With this pocket, the effect of volume is achieved due to one single piece for folds.

The lateral edges and the bottom edge form the line of the outer fold of the fold. At equal distances, which correspond to the desired fold width (2-2.5 cm), draw two lines from the bottom and side edges of the pocket. The middle is the line of the inner fold of the fold.

Connect the vertices of the corners with a dotted line. Through the top of the inner corner at right angles to the dotted line, draw a line that intersects the line of the inner fold of the fold at two points. From these intersection points, draw straight lines parallel to the dotted line until they intersect with the outer (third) line (5). Cut out the corners along the drawn solid lines.

Cut out a pocket with seam allowances. On the side and bottom sections - 1 cm, on the top - 2.5-3 cm.

Defects which can arise when processing this pocket: curved corners, different widths of the slats.

Briefcase pocket with a stitched straight detail for folds.

In this pocket, the effect of volume is achieved due to the stitched rectangular strip of fabric.

This is the easiest way to make a briefcase pocket from a regular rounded or rectangular pocket. For a piece with pleats, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric with a width equal to twice the desired pleat width (4-5 cm), and a length equal to the length of the side pocket cuts plus the length of the hem of the top cut of the pocket.

The allowance on the upper cut of the pocket is 2.5-3 cm, on the side and bottom cuts 1 cm.

Defects which can occur when processing this pocket:

Rounded briefcase pocket.

Iron the allowance along the top edge of the pocket inside out.

Sew the allowance along the top edge of the pocket.

On the bar, iron the allowance along one longitudinal section to the wrong side.

Pin the other longitudinal section of the strap to the pocket along the side and bottom sections face to face.

Tuck the short sections of the strap at the top edge of the pocket.

Sew the strap to the pocket.

Cut the seam allowance close to the stitching, notch in the fillet areas (7).

Turn the plank inside out. Sweep out the edges.

Iron the edges of the plank (8).

Sew the bar to the edge (optional).

Pin the edges of the plank to the product along the alignment lines and sew to the edge (9).

Pin off the edges of the pocket and strap.

Iron.

Sew the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to the edge for a length of about 1 cm.

Iron the pocket ready.

The allowance for the upper cut of the pocket is 2.5-3 cm or according to the model. The allowance for the side and bottom cuts of the pocket is 1 cm. For the placket, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric with a width equal to twice the desired pleat width (4-5 cm), and a length equal to the length of the side pocket cuts plus the length of the hem of the top cut of the pocket.

Defects that may occur during the processing of this pocket:

Defects that may occur during the processing and connection of any type of briefcase pocket with the product.

a) The top edge of the patch pocket is not adjacent to the shelf. When stitching a patch pocket on a shelf, the side edges of the pocket are shifted one to the other

b) asymmetrical arrangement of patch pockets. Locations of pockets are inaccurately marked, pockets are processed with a deviation from the planned lines

Remedy: Delete the line and do it again

Elimination: carefully carry out the basting of pockets and their stitching. To eliminate the defect, open one pocket and stitch it symmetrically to the other

III Current briefing

Exercises for students in the processing of the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt.

To ensure that students perform operations in the most rational ways with the least number of errors and shortcomings.

Practical demonstration of the operation

Monitoring the correct implementation of technological methods.

In the process of going around the workplace, monitor the work of all students, give the necessary instructions in the course of observation, correct and prevent errors, and pay attention to shortcomings in the work. Instead of giving students ready-made instructions on how to correct mistakes, they should be encouraged to find ways to correct them themselves. Provide correct mode labor.

Monitoring the organization of labor and the workplace.

Monitoring compliance with labor safety rules

Suppression of careless attitude to tools and equipment.

Give a leading task to strong students.

Quality control of work performed. Explanation, tips.

Re-demonstration of techniques and methods of performing work individually at the workplaces of students.

Individual work with weak students:

IV Final briefing

Summarize the work day.

Answer student questions

To consolidate the material of the lesson, note the degree of achievement of the goal.

Conduct a brief debriefing:

a) note the discipline of students;

b) point out shortcomings in the work and typical errors;

c) select the most active students;

d) evaluate the work of students in the classroom.

Specify ways to resolve errors.

Submit grades to the journal.

Submit a self-study assignment.

Assignment to write on the board.

Remove jobs.

Make an entry in the log about the availability and serviceability of the equipment.

Assign attendants.

By the list

Remove the training and production workshop.

Close shop.

Master of p / o __________________ Tonoyants Yu.A.

Girls, have a nice day everyone!)))) I did the promised MK for my pocket-portfolio. My camera is working worse and worse, it's time to retire it, but I think the essence will be clear even with not very high-quality photos. The fabric is all streaked - I decided to recycle a piece for tildes, which I unsuccessfully managed to tint with tea. Do not disappear good.))))
Well, now read on.

We will need a pocket template made of whatman paper or cardboard. We start by measuring the length of the three sides of the pocket, placing a centimeter on the edge. I got 37 cm.
Croim. On the lining, trace the outline of the pocket and add allowances. The top edge of the pocket does not need an allowance. We also need to draw them. In general, it must be said that in these pockets the accuracy of the allowances is very important. Therefore, I made myself a template for allowances 1 cm wide out of cardboard. Now everything should match up to a millimeter.
We also circle the pocket on the main fabric, add a hem allowance along the top (I have 3 cm). On the sides we draw the same allowances as on the lining.
Cut out the top and lining. We cut the sidewall of the pocket: it is a rectangle. Its length is equal to the perimeter of the three sides of the pocket + 2 widths of the allowance; width - 2 widths of the sidewall of the pocket + 2 widths of the allowance. my pocket perimeter is 37 cm + 2 cm allowances, the total length of the rectangle is 39 cm. I want to make the sidewall of the pocket 2.5 cm wide, which means the width of the rectangle will be 2.5 cm x 2 and plus 2 cm. allowances. Total 7 cm. The rectangle turned out to be 39x7 cm.
Fold the rectangle lengthwise facing inward and stitch short sections exactly to the width of the allowance. We twist, straighten and iron.
We attach our rectangle to front side pocket, aligning the short side with the top of the pocket (not the allowance, but the actual pocket) and aligning the cuts.
And we start pinning around the perimeter. In the roundings at the corners, cut the sidewall allowances to fit better.
Wrap the hem allowance on the sidewall and bend the centimeter up, as in the photo.
Put the lining on top of everything inside out and pin in several places.
Sew through all layers, strictly observing the width of the allowances.
Cut the allowances by half a centimeter and cut into rounds. Turn through the pocket hem allowance and iron. Get this result. View from the inside.
And from the face.
Sew the pocket hem allowance, I do not capture the sides, only the middle part of the pocket.
Bend the side panel to the wrong side and stitch to the edge at a distance of 1 mm.
From the face it will be like this.
And this is from the inside out. Everything is clean and tidy. You can sew the pocket in place.
On things we circle the place of sewing the pocket according to the template. Cross strokes mark the place of the beginning and end of the line.
And we pin the sidewall, strictly combining the edge with the stitching line.
If you strictly observed the width of the allowances, then everything should match up to a millimeter. I matched.))))
Sew to the edge at a distance of 1 mm. from the edge.
In the corner we scribble more slowly so that the line does not run away.
Straighten the side panel, placing it under the middle part of the pocket, and iron.
We get such a beautiful pocket. At this stage, you can make the bartacks in the corners through all the layers, but I don’t like them and therefore I don’t do them, it’s more convenient to use the pocket. And you can fix the corners by putting holnitens.
Now we sew the valve. Reinforce the upper part with interlining or dublerin, fold it face to face with the unreinforced bottom and draw the outline of the flap using our pocket template. The same rounding on the pocket and the valve will look harmonious, and the width will thus be the same.
Sew along the contour and trim the allowances. Turn out, straighten and iron. Cut the open cut to evenness.
Now fold the flap along the stitching line and secure the edge with pins along the fold so that the flap can be unfolded for further work with it. Why is it necessary? See how the slices have shifted relative to each other? if you do not bend it like that, then due to this displacement, the valve will bulge outward. At this stage, you can sew loops if the pocket closes with buttons.
Unfold the valve, cut off the excess along the pins, leaving only 1-1.5 cm and pin, aligning the cut with the pocket entrance.
Sew and cut the seam allowance to 3 mm.
Turn the valve into correct position. iron and stitch at a distance of 5 mm. from the edge. Don't forget the bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitch. The pocket is ready. You can put buttons or sew on buttons.
If you turn the pocket inside out, we will see that there is not a single open cut, everything is clean and tidy.
We love the finished result!
Good luck to everyone and warm, roomy and neat pockets!)))

Hi all!

Today, dear lovers of sewing, I bring to your attention the first part of the article about pockets - briefcases.

In three parts of the article on patch pockets - briefcases, we will learn how to make a pattern of a pocket - briefcase, cut out details for it, sew them together and adjust the pocket to the product.

In principle, any patch pocket can be turned into a briefcase pocket. But is anyone worth it? The volumetric forms of such a pocket are already a very noticeable decoration of it. Therefore, a pocket-briefcase will look most organic if the base of the pocket is a piece in the form of a square, a rectangle, a square, a rectangle narrowed from below or from above, or the same square and rectangle (or almost a square and a rectangle), but with rounded edges.

What is the difference between a patch pocket - a briefcase and a regular patch pocket? Volume or, if you like, bulge. That is probably why the pocket is called the briefcase, because when it is ready, on the product, it really looks very much like a briefcase.

These bulkiness or bulge are achieved by adding one (two) more details to the pocket. It is called differently: a placket, a pleat, a pocket connecting part, a rectangular strip of fabric, etc.

And the topic of today's article, a pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners (ends, edges, etc.)

1. Pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.
2. Pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

Pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.

To make such a patch pocket, you need to add one more additional detail to the pocket base pattern. This is a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the outer contour of the pocket pattern.

Detail width 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 cm and more (according to the model). The larger the patch pocket is planned - the briefcase, respectively, and the bar is cut wider, and vice versa.

On all four sides of the additional part and on three sides of the pocket (both side and bottom) we add allowances for seams 0.7 - 1.2 cm wide (according to the model). On the top of the pocket, to make a double hem, you will need 2 - 4 cm of allowance (according to the model).

When cutting, it is better to place the pattern of an additional part on the fabric so that the shared thread of the fabric runs along the short, transverse side of the bar. Then the part will be a little plastic along the length (along the transverse thread), which will certainly come in handy when connecting the parts.

The placket can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or it can be made from another, companion fabric or contrasting in color to the main one (according to the model).

Patch pockets - briefcases are the "exclusive right" of clothes sewn from dense medium and heavy materials. And tissue sections of these types, as a rule, are not very “loose”. Therefore, it is quite possible to do without processing sections of pocket details cut from such fabrics.

But since voluminous pockets - portfolios are most often placed on outerwear or on clothing related to sporty style, safari style, and clothing of these types, as a rule, is heavily exploited, subjected to increased loads, it is still better that the cuts inside the pockets are protected.

Therefore, we process a cut of one of the two longitudinal sides of the plank from shedding.

We turn the hem allowance along the top of the pocket to the wrong side (along the contour line). There we fold it again, in half, iron it and sew it on the pocket (the width of the seam according to the model).

On the additional part, we turn it to the wrong side and iron it like this, one of the two long longitudinal sides of the part (from the side of the processed cut).

We fold the bar with the pocket with the right sides to each other. And we tack it to the pocket (on the side and bottom sides), with a long longitudinal side (with a raw cut), combining both parts along the contour lines.

The short transverse sides of the strap, along the line of the upper contour of the pocket, are tucked to the wrong side and basted on the pocket.

We lay a machine stitch along the pocket contour.

We cut the allowances of the completed seam to 0.5 cm

In places of rounding, the seam allowance is cut with triangles.

If on the outside along the edge of the pocket (see later in the article) a line is not sewn to the edge, then it is better to process the completed seam from shedding.

We turn the connecting part stitched on the main part of the pocket to the wrong side, we sweep out the edge of the pocket and iron it.

If there is a need for this (according to the model), you can lay along the swept edge of the pocket.

Farther. A pocket is placed on the place marked on the product. And combining the folded edge, on the long longitudinal side of the strap and the contour line of the pocket on the product, we outline the pocket on the product, and then stitch it to the edge.

How to fix the top side of the pocket, see below in the article.

Pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

If the patch pocket - a briefcase, which was discussed in the previous part of the article, simply protrudes (due to an additional detail) from the surface of the product, then the pocket, to which the second part of the article will be devoted, looks more like an accordion pocket.

Empty, it may not stand out strongly on the product. But if you put something there, then at the expense of not one, but two additional details, such a pocket "inflates" well.

To make this type of briefcase patch pocket with rounded corners, we need to cut out two additional details. We outline the contour of the pocket pattern, applying it to new leaf paper.

And at a distance (width of slats (additional parts)) 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 cm, etc. (according to the model) draw a second contour from the edge of the applied contour.

Using the patterns obtained, we cut out the details of the pocket. The main part is one, but there are two additional ones, the same.

Connecting parts (slats) can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or from finishing fabrics (according to the model).

We cut out all the details with seam allowances of 0.7 - 1.2 cm.

A cut along the upper side of the pocket and four cuts along the short transverse sides of both strips are processed from shedding.

Then, on both parts of the slats and on the main part of the pocket, we tuck the allowances (along the line of the upper contour) on the wrong side and stitch with a seam 0.6-1 cm wide (according to the model, it depends on the width of the allowance).

On one of the strips, we perform the processing of the cut and the hem of the allowance on the wrong side along the sides and bottom sides. How to do this correctly, you can read in the article (the second part of the article, pockets with rounded corners).

Having folded two parts of the planks face to face, we connect them together with a stitching line. The line is laid along the inner contour of the parts.

Sections of the connected parts are processed from shedding.

Now this entire “construction”, consisting of two stitched slats, is placed on the pocket so that the slat, the allowances on the long sides of which are not tucked, lies face to face with the front side of the pocket. (Between them is a second bar stitched to the first, with a bent allowance).

The details of the pocket and strap (one) are swept together,

and then a machine line is laid along the contour of the pocket and strap.

All this time, you need to ensure that the bar inside is not stuck in the seam.

The seam allowances are trimmed to 0.5 cm,

and in places of rounding, allowances are cut with triangles.

We process the completed seam from shedding (for pockets without external stitching to the edge).

Then, the straps are turned to the wrong side of the pocket, the edge of the pocket is swept out

and along the edge:

• or the line is not executed at all;

So, how can you fix the now protruding pocket details on the top?

An additional part (bar, pocket connecting part) can be folded in half and the side of the pocket can be sewn with a stitch in the seam, one

On the top, in the corners, on both sides of the pocket, triangles can be stitched, equilateral or more extended downwards.

To more securely fix the entire upper side of the pocket - briefcase on the product, you can first sew the lower side of the strap onto the product with a line up to 3 cm long. The line is laid along the inner seam or fold.

And then the upper side of the bar is adjusted to the bottom line in the seam, (on top, one line or two (according to the model)). See above in the article.

You can not fix the protruding pocket at all (according to the model).

By the way, when making most pockets - briefcases with a valve, this is exactly what they do.

Pocket - a briefcase with a valve.

Often the valve is an integral part of the pocket - briefcase. And it is performed, the valve for the pocket - portfolio, as well as on, after adjusting the pocket itself.

Pockets - briefcases with rounded corners have mastered, let's move on.

Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

So I'm ready to create a master class! When I cut a new bag, the question always arises of what type of pockets to make. With the internal, everything is more and less clear, but there are a great many external, decorative ones. Today I will show you how to sew a voluminous briefcase pocket.
I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos - it's been cloudy for 2 weeks now and it's simply impossible to take pictures in natural light (((

Well, let's start!

Cut out a pocket flap from paper life size, necessarily taking into account the increase in stitching and stitching - I have 1.5 cm.

We make on paper (it’s convenient for me in a cage) a pattern of our future pocket. We take paper of any size (you can use a double notebook sheet). We mark the middle of the pocket on paper, then draw 2 parallel lines at a distance of the planned fold width. My crease will be 1.5 cm.

We draw on top an increase for the hem of the pocket, about 1.5-2.5 cm.

We attach the valve and outline the width of the pocket. From the line of the side edge we make an increase, the amount depends on how deep the pocket you want. We draw and cut off the excess - I also have an increase of 1.5 cm.

We bend the top and side increases, apply the valve and see how long we want the pocket, draw and cut off the excess.

Cut corners equal to the depth of the pocket. In the process of sewing, this will help us lay out the pocket without any problems. I have 1.5 * 1.5 cm. The finished pattern looks like this:

Cut out the valve. If the fabric is loose or stretches, we glue it with interlining. We connect the parts as in the picture. We make notches on roundings.

It's trendy sports option patch pocket. Ordinary patch pockets can be easily converted into briefcase pockets. For rounded pockets, this effect is achieved by using two slats to match the shape of the pocket, and for rectangular pockets, by using one single piece for pleats or one rectangular strip of fabric.

Rounded briefcase pocket

On the paper pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of approx. 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket part as a separate part. Cut out the pocket and the strap from the fabric with allowances for seams along all sections: cut out the pocket once, and the strap twice.

Overcast the allowance along the upper cut of the pocket and each strap, iron it inside out and topstitch. Overcast the allowance along the outer cut of one plank and iron it on the wrong side. Lay the planks face to face and grind the inside edges. Overcast seam allowances together (2).

Pin the bar with the raw outer cut to the pocket face to face. Stitch. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, notch in the fillet areas (3). Sweep the plank to the wrong side. Iron the edge and stitch to the edge. If desired, the edge can be stitched additionally at a greater distance, without grabbing the bar with the ironed outer edge.

Pin the pocket to the product and stitch only the bar lying below to the edge. If desired, the lower bar can be adjusted additionally at a greater distance. Sew the bottom bar on each side of the top edge along the inside seam to a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to a length of approx. 3 cm exactly in the seam (4).