How can you tell dry skin from dehydrated skin?

In practice, I often encounter the fact that clients themselves cannot understand your skin type and, consequently, they cannot correctly select procedures and skin care products.

Dry skin complaints are quite common. Dry skin shrinks after washing and requires a lot of cream, often rough to the touch, prone to irritation and red spots, quickly covered with fine wrinkles, sometimes even cracks form. And the owner of this type of skin hurries to the store, where he sees a whole battery of moisturizing and nourishing creams on the shelves. But quite often I encounter subsequent complaints from clients that all these remedies “do not help, do not work.”

Let's see what's the matter here.

First, there are two fundamentally different concepts - dry and dehydrated skin. These types of skin can be combined, but quite often they are completely different conditions.

What is the main difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin?

Difference in the depth of damage to skin structures.

When dry skin more damage superficial, at the level of the stratum corneum and the skin barrier. That is, with dry skin in the first place the skin barrier is damaged.

I wrote about the composition of the skin barrier and its functions in the article

When the skin barrier is damaged, increased evaporation of water from the skin surface is observed, the moisture content in the stratum corneum decreases, epidermal lipids suffer (both qualitatively and quantitatively)

The most important in the care of this type of skin - it is to act on the surface layers of the skin - these are all widely offered traditional cosmetic procedures - masks, creams, massage.

Attention! Injection techniques here are USELESS!

How can the skin barrier be restored?

1. apply an occlusive dressing, that is, simply put, to close the skin from above with something impenetrable. For this purpose, agents containing glycerin, petrolatum, lanolin, squalene, spermaceti, beeswax, shea butter . Such ingredients are present in almost all moisturizers and we will talk about them in more detail in the next article.
2. use special substances - "moisture catchers"-capable of attracting and holding a large number of water molecules. Such substances include hyaluronic acid, elastin, collagen, DNA, chitosan . These substances are often found in liquid emulsion creams, lotions, and serums. They act like "wet compress", as they are fixed on the surface of the skin and absorb moisture like a sponge. But these drugs are not recommended for use with increased dryness of the air, since the water from them will tend to the atmosphere and instead of moisturizing, a feeling of tightness will appear. Output- apply a protective cream over these preparations or apply thermal water during the day to moisturize the skin.
3. for deeper hydration skin use preparations containing components of a natural moisturizing factor - urea, lactic acid . They are found both in cosmetics and in medical creams, for example, in Dardia lipobalm.
4. restore and strengthen epidermal lipids. For this purpose, natural oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids are used - borage oil, evening primrose (evening primrose), blackcurrant seeds. Also useful rosehip, soybean and safflower oils because they have anti-inflammatory properties. But oils macadamia, shea, cocoa, corn create an occlusive film on the surface of the skin and enhance the effect of moisturizers.
5. most effective substances for the restoration of skin lipids are the so-called " physiological" lipids- This ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids (palmitic, oleic and linoleic). They may be included in liposomes and micellar creams. Such fats are absolutely identical to skin fats, they are easily integrated into lipid layers and restore the skin barrier.
6. don't forget about antioxidants — vitamin E to prevent lipid oxidation and the formation of destructive peroxides.
7. and the last way is apply solutions rich in mineral elements, for example, thermal water, in order to restore the natural water-salt balance of the skin and attract moisture to the epidermis according to the laws of osmosis and diffusion.

But what happens in case of dehydrated skin?

Primarily, deep layers of the skin, that is, the dermis, are affected . And the main symptom will be a decrease in elasticity (turgor).

How to determine skin turgor?

Very simple!

It is necessary to collect the skin in a thin fold - on the side of the cheek, around the eyes, in the neck. Thin - no need to capture muscles and subcutaneous tissue!

• If it is impossible to collect the skin in a fold - turgor is excellent.
• If the fold is collected, but easily straightened - turgor is good, but with a downward trend
• If the fold is easily assembled and poorly straightened - turgor is sharply reduced and we need to do something urgently!

And in this case, it is necessary to make saving hyaluronic acid injections so beloved by our cosmetologists!

Erroneous determination of skin type is one of the most common mistakes that leads to the fact that care does not bring effect and benefit. Most often confused dry and dehydrated skin. What is the difference if they feel very similar? Before you buy another jar of cream, you need to understand the main thing: dry skin is a type (if you still have doubts about what type your skin belongs to, take the test), and dehydrated skin is a condition. Like acne, pigmentation or hypersensitivity. This condition is temporary and reversible, most often it occurs as a reaction to external and internal factors and irritants: frost, dry air, excessive cleansing and exfoliation, low humidity, etc. Both normal skin and oily (very often ).

Dry skin is about a lack of natural oil/sebum. It is easy to determine this type: it does not have a greasy sheen, fine wrinkles appear early enough, pores are not visible, after washing there is a feeling of tightness, it reacts strongly to water and cold air, and peeling is present. It is impossible to make normal skin out of dry skin, this is a type in which the skin simply does not produce the proper amount of fat. Its deficiency must be replenished with oils and nourishing creams that strengthen the lipid barrier of the skin. Look for products that contain: animal fats, vegetable oils, ceramides, squalane. Moreover, in the composition of the product, they should be in the first third of the list of ingredients. In addition, dry skin requires delicate cleansing, loves gentle exfoliation with aha acids, and it also almost always lacks water. Therefore, you should not forget about moisturizing components - hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea - in care. The ideal sequence is as follows: cleansing - toning (moisturizing or acidic tonics) - hyaluronic serum - nourishing cream or oil.

If you have dehydrated skin, most likely it quickly and actively absorbs moisture (creams), has a dull (grayish) complexion, dehydration causes a feeling of tightness, while the skin can actively shine, and foundation creams, even the most persistent ones, “disappear” from the face within 4-6 hours after application. Since dehydration is a lack of water, it must be replenished with products that include hyaluronic acid or urea, such products are denoted by the words moisture, hydrating, dehydrated. Cleansing - as with all conditions for all skin types - is gentle. Exfoliating the skin is essential, acids remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, and moisturizers penetrate the skin better and work more efficiently.

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The concept of dehydrated skin

It is important to understand that this is not a skin type, but a temporary condition. “Water entering the epidermis, under the influence of various factors, quickly evaporates from there. This may be due to insufficient fluid intake, improper care, alcohol and smoking abuse, antibiotics, diuretics or laxatives, dry air, excessive ultraviolet radiation or improper nutrition,” says Tatyana Broner, training director of Caudalie.

Dehydrated skin is often confused with dry skin, but dry skin lacks lubrication and nutrients, while dehydrated skin lacks moisture. It's also worth bearing in mind that any skin type may need extra hydration.

Anna Kochergina, dermatologist at Profile Professional Club, on the signs of dehydration:

- After washing, there is a feeling of tightness, and care products can not cope.

- To the touch, the skin becomes rough, peeling and a dull complexion appear.

- Some areas even turn red and feel itchy, like after a long walk in winter.

- By the end of the day, the foundation rolls off. This happens because the skin absorbs all the moisture from it and only dry pigment remains.

How dehydration manifests itself in different skin types

Oily skin often suffers from lack of moisture. This is because the owners of this type seek to reduce fat content by matting, deep cleansing and alcohol-containing products. In response to such care, the skin begins to become even more oily - this is its protective nutritional reaction. Choose a moisturizer or gel for yourself and do not often use alcohol tonics, salicylic acid, clay-based masks and retinol - your skin will thank you.

What are the signs of dehydration in oily and combination skin? “A grayish tint of the face appears, enlarged pores become more noticeable, and peeling appears in the area of ​​​​the chin, forehead and wings of the nose,” says Alexander Prokofiev, dermatovenereologist, medical expert of the La Roche-Posay brand.

Normal skin may also lack moisture: “It becomes dull and rough to the touch, peeling appears on the tip of the nose, in the corners of the mouth and on the cheekbones,” Alexander adds.

As for dry skin, it feels very similar to dehydrated skin. The difference is that dryness is caused by a lack of fat, while dehydration is caused by a lack of water. It is very thin, without pores, also tight and with early wrinkle lines. In this case, a nourishing cream containing fats will just help.

It is very difficult to use tonal products on dehydrated skin - they emphasize its condition.

How to fix the situation

First, start drinking more water, be sure to include fruits and vegetables in your diet, and give up spicy and salty foods. And especially fast food.

Secondly, buy yourself a humidifier - it will help your skin evaporate less moisture.

Third, change your care. Start using balms and oils for washing, which, of course, do not moisturize the skin, but do not dry out additionally. “Also include a light peel in your routine, for example, with AHA acids in a low concentration,” advises Tatyana. “It will help get rid of dead cells, which means that the products will begin to penetrate faster and deeper into the skin.”

In addition, find a good moisturizer or gel (do not confuse it with a nourishing one!). It will keep the skin hydrated throughout the day. Look for hyaluronic acid, glycerin, propylene glycol, and algae extracts to attract moisture and help retain it. Also, do not forget about moisturizing serums and masks. three to four times a week.

Cover video: Chloé

Often people confuse these two concepts - dryness and dehydration. And they are just considered synonyms. However, this is not quite true. Or rather, not at all.

Cosmetologist of the highest qualification category « » Irina Lisina helps you understand what your problem is and how to deal with it.

What's the difference between dry skin and dehydration?

It is very important to understand that you have dehydrated skin, not dry skin. Or vice versa. Because the treatment will depend on that verdict. Of course, a dermatocosmetologist can best determine the problem. But if you have not reached it yet, then the guide for you should be FEEL and VISIBILITY.

Feeling of tightness of the skin, peeling, irritation - this means you have dry skin. The problem is "based" in the upper layers of the skin, at the level of the epidermis.

And it occurs, as a rule, as a result of improper care, erroneously selected cosmetics, some manifestations of the weather - for example, wind, frost, scorching sun, and so on.

Luckily, dry skin is easy to fix with the right care. The only factor we have no control over is time. With age, any type of skin (oily, normal and dry) comes to manifestations of dryness. Normal skin from birth becomes dry in old age. Dry - very dry, thin and sensitive. Owners of oily skin will be in a more advantageous position, due to the density of the skin itself, dryness in adulthood will not be so obvious. But age-related dryness of the skin is already a topic for a separate discussion.

If you don’t have any special sensations, the skin doesn’t peel off, doesn’t tighten - but the mirror upsets with premature flabbiness and loss of skin tone, dull complexion and loss of volume, although this should not happen yet by age, then we are talking about a problem dehydration.

It manifests itself in the deeper layers of the skin. And as a rule, it is the result of dehydration, that is, lack of water.

And since the process begins in the layers of the skin invisible to the eye, then at the initial stage there are no signals, they will most likely begin to appear on the owners of dry skin - a network of fine wrinkles will appear on this.

IMPORTANT! Often people confuse concepts, they think that dehydration is another type of skin (like oily or dry), but this is not the case. Dehydrated can be dry skin, and oily, and normal and combination.

Why does dehydration occur?

It is easier to understand, there is to study the structure of the skin. It consists of several layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous fatty tissue.

The topmost is the epidermis. We can influence it from the outside, for example, with creams. And dryness appears in this layer.

But the process of dehydration (that is, dehydration, when the skin lacks moisture) - it is already formed in a deeper layer. Namely, in the dermis.

Between the cells of the dermis there is a substance called hyaluronic acid. It attracts moisture to the skin (one hyaluron molecule magnetizes about 700 water molecules), and it is thanks to it that our skin is hydrated, elastic and smooth.

However, over time, starting from the age of 25, a person's metabolism slows down, and hence the production of hyaluronic acid. As a result, skin moisture decreases. That's why children's skin is so smooth, and with age, it no longer looks like that.

So, age and a decrease in the amount of hyaluronic acid in the body is one of the main factors in skin dehydration. However, not the only one. Also important are:

Photoaging (more on that below),

The general condition of a person, for example, is strongly affected by chronic diseases,

Problems with the thyroid gland: it regulates metabolism, which, in turn, regulates the production of hyaluronic acid,

Temporary events such as food poisoning or intestinal problems

And especially - the wrong drinking regimen (remember about 2 liters of clean non-carbonated water per day?).

The result of all this is premature wrinkles and flabbiness of the skin.

Is it forever now?

Fortunately, dehydrated skin is temporary. Of course, if you start fighting it in time, and not let things take their course.

The only exception can be dehydration, which has come as a result of photoaging. And it occurs due to constant damage to the skin from the sun's rays, so it most often manifests itself in those who like to sunbathe and do it regularly. Or people who live in hot countries, constantly walk under scorching rays and do not protect their skin with creams with protective filters and a hat.

Also, “chronic dehydration” can be associated with certain diseases, for example, those associated with the kidneys.

In other cases, dehydration is a transistor phenomenon, that is, temporary, which means that the sooner you start to deal with it, the less its manifestations will be.

How to save dehydrated skin?

The signs of dry and dehydrated skin are very similar. First of all, it is discomfort, a feeling of tightness, slight peeling and slight itching. However, the nature of dry and dehydrated skin is different.

Dry skin (as well as oily and mixed skin) is a type of skin that nature has given you and cannot be changed. As a rule, dry skin is smooth, thin, with narrow, barely visible pores. In this case, dry skin is associated with reduced sebum production and poor protection against external aggressions.

But dehydrated skin is an acquired condition. Any type of skin can become dehydrated, both under the influence of adverse external factors (frost, sun, soap) and internal problems (hormonal imbalance, chronic diseases, taking certain medications, etc.). For example, during acne treatment, oily skin becomes severely dehydrated and begins to peel off. But this does not mean that it has become dry (by type). Dehydration of the skin is temporary. With proper care, it passes.

Confusing dry and dehydrated skin is like comparing a Lamborghini to a Lada Kalina. On the one hand, these are cars, but on the other hand, they are so different!

Test

To determine whether your skin is dry or dehydrated, you can conduct a simple experiment. In the evening, cleanse the skin in the usual way and do not apply any care products. If in the morning you feel a feeling of tightness, you see peeling and an increase in the number of wrinkles, then your skin is dehydrated. In contrast, with dry skin types, a feeling of tightness can occur throughout the day.

Dry skin care

• Do not use alcohol-containing products to cleanse the skin, as they damage the protective hydrolipidic mantle of the skin.
• For dry skin types, it is better to avoid products that require rinsing. For these cases, mild cleansing liquids for the face and around the eyes are perfect. They gently cleanse the skin and moisturize it.
• Twice a day, it is important to apply a dry skin cream to the skin, which should not only moisturize, but also protect it. Perfect care guarantees TOPICREM SOS Nourishing Face Cream. It contains moisturizing (glycerin, urea), nourishing (shea butter) and protective components (beeswax) - everything dry skin needs.
• For maximum effect, as a night mask, two to three times a week can be used. TOPICREM SOS Facial Balm Protective, you need to apply it in a dense layer.

Remember!

Products for dry skin are richer in texture because they contain a large amount of nourishing and protective ingredients (vegetable oils, waxes). Due to the deficiency of sebum, dry skin is weakened and these ingredients help it defend itself against external aggressions.

Products for dehydrated skin are designed to restore the hydro-lipid mantle and restore the skin's ability to retain water. For this, hydrophilic substances are used in their compositions: glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid.

Dehydrated skin care

Everything here is easy and simple to remember. The main thing is to use products that necessarily contain three types of components: protective, moisturizing and restoring.

Twice a day, it is worth using products based on urea and glycerin. This pair of moisturizing ingredients will help to cope with the "whims" of dehydrated skin. Glycerin will restore the hydro-lipid mantle, and urea will reliably fix water in the stratum corneum.